Franko, Thank for keep the landscape and lake margin wild. It truly is more relaxing and decompressing to walk through to your catwalk and dock. Very helpful to birds and other wildlife. I commend you sir lure making instructor. Jim Rodgers
Thanks for noticing, I keep about 100 feet from the lake edge pretty natural, just a couple walking paths. I drink my morning coffee iwatching the dear munching in the high growth. Cheers.
I really enjoy the videos. I appreciate the approach as well as the explanation of the physical properties that affect the lure behavior. Looking forward to next Friday. Thanks
Wow Franco! Another great lure design & build. I was feeling the anticipation of seeing the results of the casting with bib as well as watching you test the action. I look forward to watching your videos and studying your techniques. Your channel is my favorite Franco. Thank you for putting in the hard work and time it takes to produce each video. You have lured me in as a forever fan.
Interesting method and great looking crankbait. And the best part is that you proved we all can do the same thing to create our own awesome baits like this.
Great action... and this is about the only channel that you can actually learn to make your own. And if you’re paying attention you’ll have very little waist. Great video as always! 💯
I used to make a lot of silicone molds and was always looking for ways to save money. Keep all those little scraps and cut off pieces. You can grind them up and add it back into your mix. I will say I was using a clean mix first to capture all the details- then fill the mold with my “chop” mix. I was making rock climbing holds back then. I have been testing the water with some fishing lure designs. Might start making some. Your videos are very good! Tight lines!
Some molds I've seen made, the lure was partially recessed into the clay and then melted wax was poured in up to the halfway seam. Looked like a good way to get a clean mold seam between the halves.
Good morning I’m in the process to make a small style bait in resin and mold. Is it best to copy the lure with paint removed, or leave the paint on like you did in the mold making process. To try to replicate the cranks as best as possible.
If you are copying a factory lure, don't worry about the paint. If it is a lure you made and painted then taking off the paint will give you the best copy.
Hey! Idk if this is still relavant. But i want to cast some small lures i got. But wont it drasticly change the weight? Like original lure vs resin cast lure?
What was the bouyency of the resin used? Is it comparable to the wood? I am looking to duplicate some balsa lures. Do you think hydrodynamics or buoyancy make greater impact on a lure action? Or so intricately intertwined they can’t be differentiated?
I think it depends on the lure. If the lure is meant to swim/crank or have some other dynamic action on retrieve then I would say hydrodynamics without a doubt. If it is a twitch bait or glide bait then it would be tough to pick one deciding factor.
Ima newer subscriber to your channel. going through your previous videos. This one sparked a question or thought. Could you use a mold to make the bill and lure one solid piece? Asking mainly cause I was thinking about trying it, I’m just to far away from that stage so checking see if you have thought about it or tried it yet
Welcome and thanks for the sub. Yes you can make a mold to make both the bill and lure. I have done it but I recommend you make the bill about twice the thickness as a typical acrylic bill.
The problem with metal molds is that they do not flex. So your lure has to be designed so that it can release from a ridged mold. That's why you usually use metal molds with soft plastic lures since the lure will flex when being removed from the mold. Silicon is really most versatile and easy to make.
On a mold I've made I put mold release on the dive bib before I pour the resin in mold. That way I can wiggle the bib out of the lure before painting and don't have to mess with masking tape it. I glue the bib in before clear coat. Something to think about.
Can it make a hollow body crank bait using a silicon mould? By pouring half or less 2part epoxy/ hard resins and seal the intake, after that let it cure on the rotary. Will it be hollow body crank bait after it cure?
Once again, great video! I know you put the holes in the bibs to keep them secure in the bait. Will you add any additional uv resin or epoxy to the outside where the body meets the bib, other than final clear coat, to secure it further? I live where a toothy Northern Pike might hit something like that, so would you suggest further enforcement, or if I don't do an internal harness, would it make sense to pin the bib in with the line tie?
The bib I use in only 1mm thick so it will break before it will come out of the body. If you're making more stout lures with thicker bib material... I would suggest one larger hole in the bib to lock it in. Cheers.
Hello Franco, great video I have tried doing them and somewhere down the road I mess up So your video is very helpful I do have a question for you and hopefully you can help me What is the lure plastic mix that you make the final lure ? Because I see it floats awesome and there is where I get tossed out I see you added that fiber dust on it Is that what makes it float? Thanks 🙏 Jesse
What makes your resin cure in 20 minutes? Does the resin you use just cure that fast? Or is there something you’re adding to it? The resin I’m using says 12 hours
Love watching the videos and all the amazing information you always provide. I was wondering, do you make a “density puck” only when you buy a new brand of resin? Or do you make one even when you re-order the same resin that has worked for you? Thanks again, keep up the great work!
ooh...good question. I only make the density pucks when I change manufacturer or type of resin. I find that the manufacturer's quality control is much more precise than mine, so no need to recheck the density with each new batch. Thank you for watching
Love how you incorporated the bib into the mold. How did you determine the amount of microbubbles to add into the mixture? When I've made mold lures in the past I found the amount of microbubbles added made a difference in how it performed. Anyway, awesome video and instructional as always!
You Should go back and watch my videos on casting lures and mixing resin. I go through the different mixes I use and how I measure. Thank you for watching Cheers.
@@EngineeredAngler I was looking at different resins that are available and that one comes up on Amazon at a decent price. Seems there’s a shortage of raw materials and compounds used to make these types of products. I plan to make a lot of different styles of baits. I’ll need a lot of silicone rubber.
Franco, another one well done. Couple quick things.... I am also a lure designer (Twitch bait only at this point) and have been thinking about what you did with the lip inside the mold, but actually pour the resin into the lip slot so the lip is actually part of the pour, (resin lip), also what do you think about doing cut molds? Tried them?
If you notice at the beginning of the video I hold up a mould with the lip moulded in period with that mould I actually pour the entire lure and bib together. There are definitely some drawbacks. The bib needs to be thicker than normal For strength. And you tend to get a lot of bubbles on the bib.
@@EngineeredAngler Yeah, i was also thinking about the weight variance between a poured lip & "Slide-In" lip. not sure if the poured one would be heavier. I will be doing some experimenting / testing, as always... Lol. I have not done alot with lipped lures yet as i have my hands full with the twitchbait i am working on. Got it slow sinking and swimming perfectly, just working with a new type of finish that is not paint, water-slide or any topical application. I'm getting some pretty incredible results but as you know, this stuff is time consuming and not as easy as some might think. Alot goes into R&D. I come from a family of stubborn Engineering. Not sure if it's a blessing or a curse.. Lol, I appreciate your comments Franco
@@EngineeredAngler That is true. I have gone with a "Figure 8" / double loop insert tie wires to help reduce overall weight (on twitchbaits), Less hardware and find the strength holds up good, pulled some good sized Jacks and Snook out with them with no issues here in the Tampa area..
My lures, that i've been casting, i made the molds so the whole lure would be casting. Two things changed, with the lip now being casting material. The action changed. My original lip was a heavier metal. That bit of weight, at the front, gave the lure a special action. At least, an action i liked. But with the lip now cast, it was much lighter, and also gave the lure an entirely different action. So the action changed, but, even being different, it's new action definitely catches fish. The other, the main downfall, was that it was definitely now the weak-point of the lure. The exact opposite of the original lure, where my lip was the strongest point. So many have broken on me. And, like he mentioned, the lip can be very prone to bubbles when making the casting.
With silicone it seems to be more about how old it is and how much it's abused. If you use it for casting soft plastics the heat will shorten the life. It will also have a shelf life, that is dependent on the silicon, 3 to 5 years is normal. So...I can get hundreds of resin casted lures from a mold or I could let it sit, get old and brittle. In that case...?
@@EngineeredAngler Thank you for the info, my friend and I want to get into making lures but weren't sure if we should go the silicone route or aluminum molds. We were hoping to make some trolling lures for the Florida coast.
Nice Franco! Don’t share too much. Last thing you wanna see is your design on every bait shelf at every WalMart and sporting goods store in the country. Don’t be me and cringe when you see what you came up with for sale produced by others.
Franko, Thank for keep the landscape and lake margin wild. It truly is more relaxing and decompressing to walk through to your catwalk and dock. Very helpful to birds and other wildlife. I commend you sir lure making instructor. Jim Rodgers
Thanks for noticing, I keep about 100 feet from the lake edge pretty natural, just a couple walking paths. I drink my morning coffee iwatching the dear munching in the high growth. Cheers.
Incorporating the dive bib in the mold is awesome. Probably the the best mold build I’ve seen. Awesome work!!👍👍
Thanks a lot I appreciate that
Awesome video.!! Thx for posting.!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hello again Franco, nice small Fishing Lures, thanks
Thanks for making this video. Wish i had the time and space to do this.
Like a little kid on Christmas morning you were!!!
😊
Thank you very, very much, Master, you've solved my big problem.🙏👍👍
Happy to help
Wow... that was a bullseye!... love it!
Thanks.
I learn something new every video! Tks Franco
Franco you continue to amaze. Please keep up the great work!!!!!!
Thanks a lot!
Man, this was the best tutorial. Love all the insight into the engineering, design, and development. Tyvm. Subed
Thank you.
Amazing idea with the bib in the mold.
Thank you
I really enjoy the videos. I appreciate the approach as well as the explanation of the physical properties that affect the lure behavior. Looking forward to next Friday. Thanks
Awesome, thank you!
Love designing and building mechanical devices. Just getting started in lure design and builds. Thanks Franco. Will be a regular on here. Well done!!
Right on! Welcome and thank you.
Another good video. Well made, both the video and the bait. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it...Cheers.
Wow Franco! Another great lure design & build. I was feeling the anticipation of seeing the results of the casting with bib as well as watching you test the action. I look forward to watching your videos and studying your techniques. Your channel is my favorite Franco. Thank you for putting in the hard work and time it takes to produce each video. You have lured me in as a forever fan.
Thank you very much! That's so nice to hear. Cheers.
As always great video and lure. I look forward to Friday's to see what you come up with next. Keep them coming. I learn something new every time.
Nice first mold. Good action. Well done.
Thanks
Nice plug, I dig the action and the method for making the mold design was solid.
Thanks!
brilliant method to hold the perfectly aligned in the mold. Great build idea
Thank you very much!
@@EngineeredAngler What is the lip thickness for this bait ? 1/16" or so?
Thanks. Really enjoy your channel and educational vids. Inspiring. Cheers.
Glad to hear it! Cheers.
Well done you are always thinking outside the box
Interesting method and great looking crankbait. And the best part is that you proved we all can do the same thing to create our own awesome baits like this.
Absolutely!
Спасибо за ваше видео 👍 👋
Thanks for sharing your knowledge great job
Love the crank bait design and action. Good ingenuity on the mold build. Amazing how physics and field experience can bring a project to completion.
Your video are awesome.. From Mauritius..
Thank you and thank you for watching
That’s awesome 👏
Thank you.
Thanx for this
My pleasure
Great action... and this is about the only channel that you can actually learn to make your own. And if you’re paying attention you’ll have very little waist. Great video as always! 💯
I appreciate that!
Thank you sir 😊
I used to make a lot of silicone molds and was always looking for ways to save money. Keep all those little scraps and cut off pieces. You can grind them up and add it back into your mix. I will say I was using a clean mix first to capture all the details- then fill the mold with my “chop” mix. I was making rock climbing holds back then. I have been testing the water with some fishing lure designs. Might start making some. Your videos are very good! Tight lines!
I do the same with any large molds I make...you can save 25% on the volume of fresh silicon. It's a good tip. Thanks for your input.
I was thinking it be sweet if he get a hit on that first case lol love it thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching.
That mushroom usually means your resin is going bad from too much exposure to moisture.
Great video. Need to try some of this myself.
Not really, this fast setting resin has a big expansion rate.
Some molds I've seen made, the lure was partially recessed into the clay and then melted wax was poured in up to the halfway seam. Looked like a good way to get a clean mold seam between the halves.
Good morning
I’m in the process to make a small style bait in resin and mold.
Is it best to copy the lure with paint removed, or leave the paint on like you did in the mold making process. To try to replicate the cranks as best as possible.
If you are copying a factory lure, don't worry about the paint. If it is a lure you made and painted then taking off the paint will give you the best copy.
@@EngineeredAnglerThank you very much, appreciate you an thanks for sharing your information with use😎👍🏽
I’ve made the lip slot before but not imbedded like you did. And I’m copying this because I need a new mold!
Go for it.
Hey! Idk if this is still relavant. But i want to cast some small lures i got. But wont it drasticly change the weight? Like original lure vs resin cast lure?
Yes, you should watch my video on the topic th-cam.com/video/4_ryPYZ4g2E/w-d-xo.html
@@EngineeredAngler great thanks!
What was the bouyency of the resin used? Is it comparable to the wood? I am looking to duplicate some balsa lures.
Do you think hydrodynamics or buoyancy make greater impact on a lure action? Or so intricately intertwined they can’t be differentiated?
I think it depends on the lure. If the lure is meant to swim/crank or have some other dynamic action on retrieve then I would say hydrodynamics without a doubt. If it is a twitch bait or glide bait then it would be tough to pick one deciding factor.
Ima newer subscriber to your channel. going through your previous videos. This one sparked a question or thought. Could you use a mold to make the bill and lure one solid piece? Asking mainly cause I was thinking about trying it, I’m just to far away from that stage so checking see if you have thought about it or tried it yet
Welcome and thanks for the sub. Yes you can make a mold to make both the bill and lure. I have done it but I recommend you make the bill about twice the thickness as a typical acrylic bill.
Do you think an aluminum mold would be better if you wanted to also incorporate a wire through construction?
The problem with metal molds is that they do not flex. So your lure has to be designed so that it can release from a ridged mold. That's why you usually use metal molds with soft plastic lures since the lure will flex when being removed from the mold. Silicon is really most versatile and easy to make.
Great video, very good job, a question what kind of clay are you using? greetings from NJ🖐🏼💪🏼
I'm using children's molding clay. If you use platinum cure silicon, you will need to use sulfur free clay.
On a mold I've made I put mold release on the dive bib before I pour the resin in mold. That way I can wiggle the bib out of the lure before painting and don't have to mess with masking tape it. I glue the bib in before clear coat. Something to think about.
That is a good idea...might try it.
Great video! What silicone do you prefer?
I'm inbetween silicon makers at the moment. Trying to find one with a reasonable shelf life. I'll be doing an update.
I made similar crankbait few years ago and it's one of the best for pike ever better than slamo and rapala for pike
Can it make a hollow body crank bait using a silicon mould? By pouring half or less 2part epoxy/ hard resins and seal the intake, after that let it cure on the rotary. Will it be hollow body crank bait after it cure?
You can make hollow lures using a two axis rotory turner. It's pretty fiddly stuff and takes a bit of experimentation but it can be done.
Once again, great video! I know you put the holes in the bibs to keep them secure in the bait. Will you add any additional uv resin or epoxy to the outside where the body meets the bib, other than final clear coat, to secure it further? I live where a toothy Northern Pike might hit something like that, so would you suggest further enforcement, or if I don't do an internal harness, would it make sense to pin the bib in with the line tie?
The bib I use in only 1mm thick so it will break before it will come out of the body. If you're making more stout lures with thicker bib material... I would suggest one larger hole in the bib to lock it in. Cheers.
Hello Franco, great video
I have tried doing them and somewhere down the road I mess up
So your video is very helpful
I do have a question for you and hopefully you can help me
What is the lure plastic mix that you make the final lure ?
Because I see it floats awesome and there is where I get tossed out
I see you added that fiber dust on it
Is that what makes it float?
Thanks 🙏
Jesse
Here's a video that should answer your questions. Cheers.
th-cam.com/video/vZncqKbExJM/w-d-xo.html
What makes your resin cure in 20 minutes? Does the resin you use just cure that fast? Or is there something you’re adding to it? The resin I’m using says 12 hours
It's a fast cure resin...you can find it on my Amazon store
@@EngineeredAngler what is the purpose of the powder you put in the resin?
What is the name of the epoxy you used to pour the bait with. Having a issue finding some to use and thought about trying what you used.
specialtyresin.com/product/model-pro-white/
@@EngineeredAngler thanks I ordered some to try. Alumilite seems to be out for a while with no ETA on when new resin will be available
Question for you! What resin did you use to pour into the mold? Thanks and what a great video!
here's a link:
specialtyresin.com/product/model-pro-white/
Awesome thank you! And one last question for you. That wire jib you have. Is it custom? Or is it purchasable? Thanks again!
This? www.amazon.com/Poulsen-11037-Twistech-Wire/dp/B00CMW18G4
Excellent video, thanks for sharing.
Will you sale one your crank baits ?
Thank you but I am not selling anything for the time being.
Love watching the videos and all the amazing information you always provide. I was wondering, do you make a “density puck” only when you buy a new brand of resin? Or do you make one even when you re-order the same resin that has worked for you? Thanks again, keep up the great work!
ooh...good question. I only make the density pucks when I change manufacturer or type of resin. I find that the manufacturer's quality control is much more precise than mine, so no need to recheck the density with each new batch. Thank you for watching
What kind of material do you used for form and lure. I'm a beginner :)
Here's a playlist that I think you might find helpful. cheers. th-cam.com/play/PLEVBv_zywucT3KwVI6GCrfzs914KbS2ZJ.html
Love how you incorporated the bib into the mold. How did you determine the amount of microbubbles to add into the mixture? When I've made mold lures in the past I found the amount of microbubbles added made a difference in how it performed.
Anyway, awesome video and instructional as always!
You Should go back and watch my videos on casting lures and mixing resin. I go through the different mixes I use and how I measure. Thank you for watching Cheers.
Mate could you please tell me what 2 part resin you use
Have you tried “Let’s Resin” silicone mold making material?
No I'll Have to check it out
@@EngineeredAngler I was looking at different resins that are available and that one comes up on Amazon at a decent price. Seems there’s a shortage of raw materials and compounds used to make these types of products. I plan to make a lot of different styles of baits. I’ll need a lot of silicone rubber.
Franco, another one well done. Couple quick things.... I am also a lure designer (Twitch bait only at this point) and have been thinking about what you did with the lip inside the mold, but actually pour the resin into the lip slot so the lip is actually part of the pour, (resin lip), also what do you think about doing cut molds? Tried them?
If you notice at the beginning of the video I hold up a mould with the lip moulded in period with that mould I actually pour the entire lure and bib together. There are definitely some drawbacks. The bib needs to be thicker than normal For strength. And you tend to get a lot of bubbles on the bib.
Using cut molds makes it difficult to place wire harnesses and interior parts.
@@EngineeredAngler Yeah, i was also thinking about the weight variance between a poured lip & "Slide-In" lip. not sure if the poured one would be heavier. I will be doing some experimenting / testing, as always... Lol. I have not done alot with lipped lures yet as i have my hands full with the twitchbait i am working on. Got it slow sinking and swimming perfectly, just working with a new type of finish that is not paint, water-slide or any topical application. I'm getting some pretty incredible results but as you know, this stuff is time consuming and not as easy as some might think. Alot goes into R&D. I come from a family of stubborn Engineering. Not sure if it's a blessing or a curse.. Lol, I appreciate your comments Franco
@@EngineeredAngler That is true. I have gone with a "Figure 8" / double loop insert tie wires to help reduce overall weight (on twitchbaits), Less hardware and find the strength holds up good, pulled some good sized Jacks and Snook out with them with no issues here in the Tampa area..
My lures, that i've been casting, i made the molds so the whole lure would be casting. Two things changed, with the lip now being casting material.
The action changed. My original lip was a heavier metal. That bit of weight, at the front, gave the lure a special action. At least, an action i liked. But with the lip now cast, it was much lighter, and also gave the lure an entirely different action. So the action changed, but, even being different, it's new action definitely catches fish.
The other, the main downfall, was that it was definitely now the weak-point of the lure. The exact opposite of the original lure, where my lip was the strongest point. So many have broken on me.
And, like he mentioned, the lip can be very prone to bubbles when making the casting.
👍🔥
Where can I get one Franko. Great videos!!
Unfortunately I don't sell any lures right now. Thank you though.
How did you make the bib pls
I bought the bibs
@@EngineeredAngler thank you I am a professional fisherman in South Africa and have learned a lot from your videos thank you
Can you make a popper chugger mold ?
How many lures will you get out of this mold?
With silicone it seems to be more about how old it is and how much it's abused. If you use it for casting soft plastics the heat will shorten the life. It will also have a shelf life, that is dependent on the silicon, 3 to 5 years is normal. So...I can get hundreds of resin casted lures from a mold or I could let it sit, get old and brittle. In that case...?
@@EngineeredAngler Thank you for the info, my friend and I want to get into making lures but weren't sure if we should go the silicone route or aluminum molds. We were hoping to make some trolling lures for the Florida coast.
NO, you had to return the lego blocks before you get into trouble with your kids? LAUGHING
Busted! I did steal them from my nephew.
You don't have a video of where you made the 1st One
th-cam.com/video/42YM2bcNmr4/w-d-xo.html
You should practice safer technique on the band saw and drilling. Your ways teach people how to loose fingers quickly. But I like your channel
You are right..
i have been looking for dive bills at a reasonable price, you should monetize your supplies with links
Nice Franco! Don’t share too much. Last thing you wanna see is your design on every bait shelf at every WalMart and sporting goods store in the country. Don’t be me and cringe when you see what you came up with for sale produced by others.