My older brother bought a 2330B with the walnut cabinet back in '79 while in the military. At the time they were going for $770 at the local stereo shop; he paid $195. When digital became all the rage he retired the Marantz and bought a Pioneer. When he came back state-side, he gave me his Marantz. It had some issues with the P700 board so I took it to a shop and had it repaired. One side was toasted; drivers, mains, resistors, etc. I ended up using it for a number of years but the pots/switches got scratchy and when I saw how much work it was just to clean a pot, I stuck it in the closet. A couple weeks ago I decided to dig it out, clean it up and use it! I still have it but it's in pieces. I'm re-capping it, new lamps, etc. Fortunately, that model didn't use the velum paper! Can't wait to finish it up and rock it out!
I have a 2270 that I bought new in 1972. The first year I had it, it broke twice. It was fixed under warranty both times. Paid a lot of money for it at the time and really wondered if I had made a big mistake with the purchase. It's worked perfectly now for 47 years. It just now needs control cleaning. It is my most prized possession.
Dude !!! Watched your video once and managed to fix my dead (super faint) channel !!! Thanks for how to clean and burnish that relay !!! You're the man !!! Thank you !!!!!
DUDE THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS. Extremely clear walk through of a compilation of the hours and hours I have put into reading online about servicing this unit.
I was able to come across this receiver about 6 years ago when some one dropped it in my companies e-waste pile. I took it home and just fired it up for the first time today. Was shocked that it worked. I have only just listened to FM radio but sounded amazing, rich and clear. Station frequencies are lighted in green incandescent and blue tuning light on the left. So sexy. I will be listening to this daily from now on. Something so satisfying when rolling the selector dial and hearing the stations come in. I hope more people get into real audio and free entertainment from the airwaves. Cheers!
Thanks for putting up this video! My father is giving me his 2245 and this is a perfect guide for servicing the unit. Still works but takes 5-10min to come out of protection. Even with moderate vintage electron experience I'm scared shitless of breaking something. It was his pride and joy for many years.
The velum paper is actually very easy to find. Go to a hobby store. I went to Hobby Lobby, where you get a handful of sheets of the stuff for less than $4.00. Then use a little rubber cement on the edges of the plastic piece and lay the paper down on top of it. Use your xacto knife to cut around the three edges that overlap, and you have a perfect replacement.
Perfect video and I appreciate that you treat machines like machines as if you care 100% and do one slight error and get a scratch, you feel guilty. But if one throws the front plate just like you did, the job and hifi makes fun as. perfectionism is nocif. I quite need some period to care less, as I actually do, and actually my care is a little too much.
I would absolutely not use sandpaper on relay contacts. Most small relays (not contactors) have a THIN layer of tough alloy deposited on the round contact blobs. Filing removes this and you are left with the blob metal. The relay will not last very long after this. Source of this: xraytonyb. You can rub it with paper soaked in lubricant free contact cleaner or IPA.
Roughing up the surface of contacts usually leads to arcing, oxidation and eventually, failure altogether...If De-Ox or similar doesn't do the job, burnishing the contacts with a low AC voltage, like from a 6.3 Vac heater tranny, is a last resort...If you have to, paper money can be used in place of sandpaper or emery cloth for cleaning those contacts...
Burnishing relay contacts is only a temporary fix. I don't bother anymore. For a tiny 5-note, I just replace them with 24Vdc modern relays from Digikey (with the rated amperage) - lasts much much longer.
Hi Jordan thanks for posting this amazing resource. I recently acquired a 2270 that appeared to be functional the lights all come on....but when I took the cover off I noticed I'm missing the right side power amp and heatsink assembly....whomever took it out must have had some familiarity with electronics ....I was curious if any of your contacts sell replacements or do I have to just get the board and all the parts and build one from scratch? It's not something I'm afraid of but it does open a can of worms.....if I can find someone that has some of this it would be a huge help. Please and thank you
thank you, to reglue the paper and the glass what glue do you use, as well as to clean the sliders what product, thank you I will see about the card troubleshooting too test, you have connected the oscilloscope to the speaker terminals directly or with resistance, or speaker
I use a basic glue for the glass. Could use Elmer's glue if you wanted to. Deoxit F5 Fader lube for controls Connect the amp to a dummy load bank (2 8 ohm 250w resistors) and the scope in parallel
Hey Jordan Great video! I just picked up a 2245 that wont come out of protection but looks to be mint.. I havent tried any troubleshooting yet but I wonder if my caps are most likley toast as well on the power supply.. I will start testing soon but im hoping its something that basic.
Hey JP, solid video! I enjoyed the detailed walkthrough and the little bit of humor you snuck in. Helped greatly with navigating my first application of D5 to my 2245. I was hoping it would help the issue I’m having but it has not... THOUGH you did mention the possible cause of my problem in this video- which is the relay. I’ve been noticing the left channel goes in and out with slight distortion(both mains and remotes). The folks at AK recommended a deoxit app first as it might be the fix and a quick/easy one at that(which brought me to your TH-cam). BUT I’ll admit- I made a rookie mistake and used a not-so-friendly grit of sand paper cause it’s all I had(think it was just labeled “fine”- certainly not 2000grit) and when I got everything back together the problem was worse, now the channel drops completely and the volume seems to have taken a hit cause I’m getting like half the juice it seems. Also I cleaned the power switch if that helps(waited for it to evaporate before testing). The power switch seems muckier than before and I’m planning on replacing both relay and switch. I was just wondering, while I have it open, is that the only thing that would cause this channel dropping issue? Or should I be looking at any other areas and replace other items while I’m in there? Thought about doing the caps in the power section you’d mentioned but they appear to be in great shape and I’m a newbie so I’m trying to tinker as little as possible to avoid mistakes(like the relay haha!). Sorry for the long comment and thank you in advance for your advice.
Mike, The test to see if it is in fact the relay is to crank the shit out of it and see if the channel comes back clear. If it does it's likely the relay is just toast and you'll need a new one. If that doesn't help, isolate the problem to either the preamp or power amp. Pull the jumpers and feed a signal into the main in. If it clears up and sounds good it's in the preamp, at which point you likely have a dirty tape monitor or input selector switch. If it still sucks you've got bigger issues in the amp. Carefull with that recapping crap. Throwing parts at something without troubleshooting it first.is a great way to waste time, money, and possibly blow up equipment ;)
Jordan Pier yeah, I’ve noticed that was the case at higher volumes- which i’d earlier mistaken for it being an intermittent issue and not a case specific issue. So seeing it goes away at higher volumes it’s likely the relay. I want to replace it anyways cause I roughed up the contacts pretty good. That’s great advice re: moving the source material to the main in. Will definitely help isolate the issue without tearing everything apart. I will do that next if the issue persists after a new relay is installed. I want to replace the power switch also. It’s super sludgey even after a few apps of D5. Can you provide a link to the (sounds like) Duo Joe you mention in the video for parts?
Here's Dave the lamp guy. He may have switches: sites.google.com/site/dgwojocom/ Hb electronics in Hollywood, CA has a good replacement switch. I'll dig up their catalog and find the part# I used
Excellent information. I am trying to get my receiver out of the wood case, and it’s not budging. The video description says you cover removing from case, but your video skips it entirely. Maybe it’s obvious to you, but I can’t find a video that shows how. Stuck.
All retention screws should be on the bottom. If it still isn't budging then either a screw is embedded in the case or it got shoved in there and it doesn't belong in that case. Should come out real easy
Jordan, Great tutorial video. I wanted to ask you a question regarding my Marantz 2240b. I moment I connected it to a speaker it has the low humming sound on all source selections. Through your experience do you know where could that be coming from and do you kn ow how to get rid of it? Thank you in advance.
Likely failure of main or regulator supply capacitors. Easy test is to measure ac voltage on the capacitors. You shouldn't have more than 1v on the main capacitors and .5v on the capacitors in the regulator. You won't start to hear him until about 10v ac on the main caps and 2v on the regulator capacitors. Use caution working around voltages. If you don't feel comfortable, don't do it.
Great video! What about the pole antenna when you set the amp on its back? I'm surprised you didn't blow the relay out with air after you polished the lower contacts.
Stu Boyer since these have metal antenna bar brackets instead of the plastic ones found on later marantz they can withstand the weight as long as you're careful I've never had an instance where I needed to blow out the contacts - but I'll keep this in mind!
Hi,it there different versions on the front end on the 2270,this reading I ask is a tech i use have a very hard time trying to replace the pin bulbs including the stereo. It seems the dial mylar(plastic) started to disinagrate. I know that some of the production runs have slightly different sets up and materials. In you experience is this at all come. My back ground is Brown in st electronics school in the twin cities. But I went more of the sales world instead of becoming a tech. The tech I use has been doing this for 35 years. Any ideas?
There is someone on eBay who sells new abs plastic lamp housings for the marantz receivers. They're not cheap but if you plan on keeping the set it's a good investment. I find that without dismounting the circuit board from the housing it's very tricky to replace the bi pin lamps
I have a 4230 with a dead right channel. Zero experience working on receivers and those quadraphonics are very intimidating under the hood. Anything obvious to look for or should I just take it in? Also - your knowledge is seriously impressive. How would an interested hobbyist start learning about this stuff?
Hello... I have this same receiver and i just lost all audio on both sides of the speaker I plugged in head phones still doesn't work no sound... It does appear the the relay is kicking in at all replace the 3 caps you recommend my next step is to check Output Amplifier Transistor maybe shorted... What do you recommend? Thanks
If the relay clicks after power on, it's not the amplifier or protection circuit. Pull the pre out/main-in jumpers on the back and see if it plays through main in (may be loud unless your device has cobtrol) - if it plays through main in you've lost your preamp - or more likely the regulated voltage feed to the preamp. Get a schematic and check your regulated power supply voltages
Then check amp, power supply and protection circuit. Hook negative of a volt meter to chassis and touch positive to the cases of the output transistors. If you have DC voltage you've found your failure. It's ok for up to about 100mv, trigger threshold on the protection circuit is 1 volt. If both amplifiers are offsetting the same check power supplies. . . If no offset on either look at power supply voltages and if ok troubleshoot the protection circuit
Payday i getting ready to order some deoxit ,some tech say also use crc contact cleaner,with deoxit do i need both.and how long does it take for the deoxit to evaporate,before useing.thanks for your video its very helpful to me
Use the contact cleaner first while turning pots to get the junk out of there. Wait about 5 minutes and then spray them with deoxit sparingly and turn them again to spread the deoxit. A little goes a long way with deoxit.
Hb electronics, mouser, digikey, Newark, or any major electronics parts distributor. ...but if those are bad or burned open you've got much bigger problems. Replacing those without finding why the blew out is just a waste of time.
Start with output transistors and go backwards. Look for shorts, mostly collector-emitter shorts. Also see if the protection relay has been bypassed. If it was then the resistors would be able to burn open in an overload situation
yeah I plugged in and run for a while and then I turn in off and I touch all the power transistors and one of the transistor is overheating... super hot.
Jordan, You have a terrific channel, my friend. Wish I had found it sooner. You're a very good instructor. Now that I've buttered you up, I have a quick question about my Pioneer SX-780. It plays fine, but about 10-minutes after fire-up a loud snap is heard. I've disconnected all the external gear and changed speakers, but it still snaps away...about every 15 to 20 minutes or so. I believe this is a cap issue, but a while ago I saw a video where a transistor was causing an almost identical problem. Have you ever run into this sort of problem? Regards, John
joernone nope. however here are things to look for... if the snap is coming from the speakers, note if it's one or both. if one only likely one of the amplifiers is failing if both its probably in the power supply. the regulator transistors come unsoldered and wreak havoc. if it's coming from the machine itself, the snapping is likely high voltage arcing somewhere to ground. take the top and bottom off and look for arcing around the amplifiers and large capacitors. arcing leaves carbon so the spots where it's arcing will be darkened. run it in a very dim room and watch for the arcing when you hear it. press on the board with an insulated object like a wood stick to see if flexing the board induces the problem. look for excessively long screws holding the bottom on. they should be no more than 3/8 inch long or that may short stuff out.
Jordan, The periodic snap comes from the speakers. I should have told you that. But I hadn't thought of checking to see if it comes from both of them. I appreciate that insight. Hopefully, next week I can find enough time to open things up for a look-see. Thanks, my friend. Regards, John
after burnishing the contacts on protect relay add a dab of mineral oil with an eye dropper or diluted Vaseline so the contacts have air or oxygen or rust protection
@@designasaur5354 no. I would not use that. You can also use CRC QD contact cleaner. Much easier to get. Hardware stores and automotive stores should Cary it.
+Dj #1 OU812 ? If you're willing to ship to my workplace, I'll service it. I don't do "side work"-just not enough spare time. Check repairaudio.com for details
And.........Their solder work Sucks. I see you know Dave, that's whom I got my lights from. Even with the black bar at bottom, they still glued the bottom portion as was my case. Old vellum has to go, you can buy a 81/2 x 11 57 lb. for 3.00 dollars. Hey, that Kenwood 9000G would be a entertaining video.
Thanks for the video . I’m just going to restore my first receiver. A Marantz 2218, that was given to me, I pulled all the power supply Board caps, one tested bad, half tested ether out of tolerance on their capacitance some of them tested high ESR and two other ones tested low ohms almost shorted but still working. Every button and every pot is sticky or Noisey. Seems like this is a good candidate for a first timer DYI to do a restore.
a person can buy vellem paper from Walmart, 100 sheets 8 1/2 x 11 for $20 (60 weight). that's a lifetime supply. FYI IT SHOULD BE REPLACED BECAUSE AFTER 40 YEARS IT YELLOWS.
My older brother bought a 2330B with the walnut cabinet back in '79 while in the military. At the time they were going for $770 at the local stereo shop; he paid $195. When digital became all the rage he retired the Marantz and bought a Pioneer. When he came back state-side, he gave me his Marantz. It had some issues with the P700 board so I took it to a shop and had it repaired. One side was toasted; drivers, mains, resistors, etc. I ended up using it for a number of years but the pots/switches got scratchy and when I saw how much work it was just to clean a pot, I stuck it in the closet. A couple weeks ago I decided to dig it out, clean it up and use it! I still have it but it's in pieces. I'm re-capping it, new lamps, etc. Fortunately, that model didn't use the velum paper! Can't wait to finish it up and rock it out!
I have a 2270 that I bought new in 1972. The first year I had it, it broke twice. It was fixed under warranty both times. Paid a lot of money for it at the time and really wondered if I had made a big mistake with the purchase. It's worked perfectly now for 47 years. It just now needs control cleaning. It is my most prized possession.
Dude !!! Watched your video once and managed to fix my dead (super faint) channel !!! Thanks for how to clean and burnish that relay !!! You're the man !!! Thank you !!!!!
DUDE THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS. Extremely clear walk through of a compilation of the hours and hours I have put into reading online about servicing this unit.
I was able to come across this receiver about 6 years ago when some one dropped it in my companies e-waste pile. I took it home and just fired it up for the first time today. Was shocked that it worked. I have only just listened to FM radio but sounded amazing, rich and clear. Station frequencies are lighted in green incandescent and blue tuning light on the left. So sexy. I will be listening to this daily from now on. Something so satisfying when rolling the selector dial and hearing the stations come in. I hope more people get into real audio and free entertainment from the airwaves. Cheers!
you've done humanity a service! Thank you, Jordan! LONG LIVE THE 2270! 🤘🏼
Thanks for putting up this video! My father is giving me his 2245 and this is a perfect guide for servicing the unit. Still works but takes 5-10min to come out of protection. Even with moderate vintage electron experience I'm scared shitless of breaking something. It was his pride and joy for many years.
Wonderful video, thanks so much for sharing your knowledge, have my 2245 ready for duplicating much of this maintenance.
The velum paper is actually very easy to find. Go to a hobby store. I went to Hobby Lobby, where you get a handful of sheets of the stuff for less than $4.00. Then use a little rubber cement on the edges of the plastic piece and lay the paper down on top of it. Use your xacto knife to cut around the three edges that overlap, and you have a perfect replacement.
Nice job on video!! ..I have a 2245 that my father purchased in 1972 that is original in every way but does need a good cleaning.
Perfect video and I appreciate that you treat machines like machines as if you care 100% and do one slight error and get a scratch, you feel guilty. But if one throws the front plate just like you did, the job and hifi makes fun as. perfectionism is nocif. I quite need some period to care less, as I actually do, and actually my care is a little too much.
For the translucent paper in front of the dial lamps you could use a diffuser sheet found in the panel from a old scrapped LCD tv. Just cut to fit
That is great info, thanks so much! I can't wait to get my 2270 into service!
I would absolutely not use sandpaper on relay contacts. Most small relays (not contactors) have a THIN layer of tough alloy deposited on the round contact blobs. Filing removes this and you are left with the blob metal. The relay will not last very long after this. Source of this: xraytonyb.
You can rub it with paper soaked in lubricant free contact cleaner or IPA.
Yes, that goes for most if not all leaf switches I think, it's a big no-no in pinball maintenance.
Roughing up the surface of contacts usually leads to arcing, oxidation and eventually, failure altogether...If De-Ox or similar doesn't do the job, burnishing the contacts with a low AC voltage, like from a 6.3 Vac heater tranny, is a last resort...If you have to, paper money can be used in place of sandpaper or emery cloth for cleaning those contacts...
Totally here for the sticky blue on/off switch.
Thanks!!!
Burnishing relay contacts is only a temporary fix. I don't bother anymore. For a tiny 5-note, I just replace them with 24Vdc modern relays from Digikey (with the rated amperage) - lasts much much longer.
Great video!
Hi Jordan thanks for posting this amazing resource. I recently acquired a 2270 that appeared to be functional the lights all come on....but when I took the cover off I noticed I'm missing the right side power amp and heatsink assembly....whomever took it out must have had some familiarity with electronics ....I was curious if any of your contacts sell replacements or do I have to just get the board and all the parts and build one from scratch? It's not something I'm afraid of but it does open a can of worms.....if I can find someone that has some of this it would be a huge help.
Please and thank you
Ask around audiokarma. Keep an eye out on ebay for someone parting one out.
Thanks for the advice
Thanks! was having trouble getting into the knobs
thank you, to reglue the paper and the glass what glue do you use, as well as to clean the sliders what product, thank you I will see about the card troubleshooting too test, you have connected the oscilloscope to the speaker terminals directly or with resistance, or speaker
I use a basic glue for the glass. Could use Elmer's glue if you wanted to.
Deoxit F5 Fader lube for controls
Connect the amp to a dummy load bank (2 8 ohm 250w resistors) and the scope in parallel
Very nice video 👍
Hey Jordan Great video! I just picked up a 2245 that wont come out of protection but looks to be mint.. I havent tried any troubleshooting yet but I wonder if my caps are most likley toast as well on the power supply.. I will start testing soon but im hoping its something that basic.
If no offset from the amp, replace the 47uf, 10uf and 220uf caps in the protection circuit
@@JordanPier Will check those thanks!
Hey JP, solid video! I enjoyed the detailed walkthrough and the little bit of humor you snuck in. Helped greatly with navigating my first application of D5 to my 2245. I was hoping it would help the issue I’m having but it has not... THOUGH you did mention the possible cause of my problem in this video- which is the relay.
I’ve been noticing the left channel goes in and out with slight distortion(both mains and remotes). The folks at AK recommended a deoxit app first as it might be the fix and a quick/easy one at that(which brought me to your TH-cam).
BUT I’ll admit- I made a rookie mistake and used a not-so-friendly grit of sand paper cause it’s all I had(think it was just labeled “fine”- certainly not 2000grit) and when I got everything back together the problem was worse, now the channel drops completely and the volume seems to have taken a hit cause I’m getting like half the juice it seems. Also I cleaned the power switch if that helps(waited for it to evaporate before testing). The power switch seems muckier than before and I’m planning on replacing both relay and switch.
I was just wondering, while I have it open, is that the only thing that would cause this channel dropping issue? Or should I be looking at any other areas and replace other items while I’m in there? Thought about doing the caps in the power section you’d mentioned but they appear to be in great shape and I’m a newbie so I’m trying to tinker as little as possible to avoid mistakes(like the relay haha!).
Sorry for the long comment and thank you in advance for your advice.
Mike,
The test to see if it is in fact the relay is to crank the shit out of it and see if the channel comes back clear. If it does it's likely the relay is just toast and you'll need a new one.
If that doesn't help, isolate the problem to either the preamp or power amp. Pull the jumpers and feed a signal into the main in. If it clears up and sounds good it's in the preamp, at which point you likely have a dirty tape monitor or input selector switch. If it still sucks you've got bigger issues in the amp.
Carefull with that recapping crap. Throwing parts at something without troubleshooting it first.is a great way to waste time, money, and possibly blow up equipment ;)
Jordan Pier yeah, I’ve noticed that was the case at higher volumes- which i’d earlier mistaken for it being an intermittent issue and not a case specific issue. So seeing it goes away at higher volumes it’s likely the relay. I want to replace it anyways cause I roughed up the contacts pretty good. That’s great advice re: moving the source material to the main in. Will definitely help isolate the issue without tearing everything apart. I will do that next if the issue persists after a new relay is installed. I want to replace the power switch also. It’s super sludgey even after a few apps of D5. Can you provide a link to the (sounds like) Duo Joe you mention in the video for parts?
Here's Dave the lamp guy. He may have switches:
sites.google.com/site/dgwojocom/
Hb electronics in Hollywood, CA has a good replacement switch. I'll dig up their catalog and find the part# I used
Great video! I was hoping you would have done the complete bias job. Would that be possible, down the road?
Service manual is unclear to me.
Thanks
Easiest way to take the measurement is one lead of your meter on the screw of the top transistor and one lead on the screw of the bottom.
@@JordanPier and set for 30 ma ?
For the 2270. Thanks
this is very helpful thank you!
Did you notice the spring not quite seated at the rear frame of the relay About 12:00 in? No biggie but I know it would bother me...
Excellent information. I am trying to get my receiver out of the wood case, and it’s not budging. The video description says you cover removing from case, but your video skips it entirely. Maybe it’s obvious to you, but I can’t find a video that shows how. Stuck.
All retention screws should be on the bottom. If it still isn't budging then either a screw is embedded in the case or it got shoved in there and it doesn't belong in that case.
Should come out real easy
Hi thanks. But as an amateur like me, it is also important to show how we could get the shelf and metal case off in a proper way.
43,900 views. good job. I needed that.
I’m having some right channel hissing that cuts in and out on my Marantz 2245 and hoping the deoxit helps
That was me on the phone
Jordan,
Great tutorial video. I wanted to ask you a question regarding my Marantz 2240b. I moment I connected it to a speaker it has the low humming sound on all source selections. Through your experience do you know where could that be coming from and do you kn ow how to get rid of it? Thank you in advance.
Likely failure of main or regulator supply capacitors. Easy test is to measure ac voltage on the capacitors. You shouldn't have more than 1v on the main capacitors and .5v on the capacitors in the regulator. You won't start to hear him until about 10v ac on the main caps and 2v on the regulator capacitors.
Use caution working around voltages. If you don't feel comfortable, don't do it.
Jordan Pier For the age of this receiver would it better to just replace all the capacitors in the power supply board?
Not necessarily. You can if you want to, but I normally just fix what's wrong and enjoy it for now
Great video! What about the pole antenna when you set the amp on its back? I'm surprised you didn't blow the relay out with air after you polished the lower contacts.
Stu Boyer since these have metal antenna bar brackets instead of the plastic ones found on later marantz they can withstand the weight as long as you're careful
I've never had an instance where I needed to blow out the contacts - but I'll keep this in mind!
The reason I thought of that is because your sandpaper is leaving grit residue behind.
Hi,it there different versions on the front end on the 2270,this reading I ask is a tech i use have a very hard time trying to replace the pin bulbs including the stereo. It seems the dial mylar(plastic) started to disinagrate. I know that some of the production runs have slightly different sets up and materials. In you experience is this at all come.
My back ground is Brown in st electronics school in the twin cities. But I went more of the sales world instead of becoming a tech.
The tech I use has been doing this for 35 years.
Any ideas?
There is someone on eBay who sells new abs plastic lamp housings for the marantz receivers. They're not cheap but if you plan on keeping the set it's a good investment.
I find that without dismounting the circuit board from the housing it's very tricky to replace the bi pin lamps
I have a 4230 with a dead right channel. Zero experience working on receivers and those quadraphonics are very intimidating under the hood. Anything obvious to look for or should I just take it in?
Also - your knowledge is seriously impressive. How would an interested hobbyist start learning about this stuff?
Hello...
I have this same receiver and i just lost all audio on both sides of the speaker I plugged in head phones still doesn't work no sound... It does appear the the relay is kicking in at all replace the 3 caps you recommend my next step is to check Output Amplifier Transistor maybe shorted... What do you recommend? Thanks
If the relay clicks after power on, it's not the amplifier or protection circuit. Pull the pre out/main-in jumpers on the back and see if it plays through main in (may be loud unless your device has cobtrol) - if it plays through main in you've lost your preamp - or more likely the regulated voltage feed to the preamp. Get a schematic and check your regulated power supply voltages
@@JordanPier Thanks Jorden for the reply it doesn't even click in after the unit is turned on stays in the open position...
Then check amp, power supply and protection circuit.
Hook negative of a volt meter to chassis and touch positive to the cases of the output transistors. If you have DC voltage you've found your failure. It's ok for up to about 100mv, trigger threshold on the protection circuit is 1 volt.
If both amplifiers are offsetting the same check power supplies. . .
If no offset on either look at power supply voltages and if ok troubleshoot the protection circuit
Payday i getting ready to order some deoxit ,some tech say also use crc contact cleaner,with deoxit do i need both.and how long does it take for the deoxit to evaporate,before useing.thanks for your video its very helpful to me
Use the contact cleaner first while turning pots to get the junk out of there. Wait about 5 minutes and then spray them with deoxit sparingly and turn them again to spread the deoxit. A little goes a long way with deoxit.
I have amplyfier marantz 2250, open source is to break the fuse is how to do?
I might commit to one of those 2070´s of yore! It seems that there are quite capacitors that might need replacing!
Robert Bruce I LOVE my 2270
i have a 2270 thats kinda rough how much to go through one
do you know where I can buy fuse resistor (white rectangle, RGB5 0.2 ohms k noble 44) . on Marantz 2245
Hb electronics, mouser, digikey, Newark, or any major electronics parts distributor.
...but if those are bad or burned open you've got much bigger problems. Replacing those without finding why the blew out is just a waste of time.
thank you Jordan... I will check all the components one by one if is there more bad components. thanks again for the info.
Start with output transistors and go backwards. Look for shorts, mostly collector-emitter shorts.
Also see if the protection relay has been bypassed. If it was then the resistors would be able to burn open in an overload situation
yeah I plugged in and run for a while and then I turn in off and I touch all the power transistors and one of the transistor is overheating... super hot.
I inherited a gen 1 2270 just like this. It needed some bulbs replaced.. this was just the ticket..
have a 2245 marants what happens if u power up with no speackers
thank you for sharing
Jordan,
You have a terrific channel, my friend. Wish I had found it sooner. You're a very good instructor.
Now that I've buttered you up, I have a quick question about my Pioneer SX-780. It plays fine, but about 10-minutes after fire-up a loud snap is heard. I've disconnected all the external gear and changed speakers, but it still snaps away...about every 15 to 20 minutes or so. I believe this is a cap issue, but a while ago I saw a video where a transistor was causing an almost identical problem. Have you ever run into this sort of problem?
Regards,
John
joernone nope. however here are things to look for...
if the snap is coming from the speakers, note if it's one or both. if one only likely one of the amplifiers is failing if both its probably in the power supply. the regulator transistors come unsoldered and wreak havoc.
if it's coming from the machine itself, the snapping is likely high voltage arcing somewhere to ground. take the top and bottom off and look for arcing around the amplifiers and large capacitors. arcing leaves carbon so the spots where it's arcing will be darkened.
run it in a very dim room and watch for the arcing when you hear it. press on the board with an insulated object like a wood stick to see if flexing the board induces the problem. look for excessively long screws holding the bottom on. they should be no more than 3/8 inch long or that may short stuff out.
Jordan,
The periodic snap comes from the speakers. I should have told you that. But I hadn't thought of checking to see if it comes from both of them. I appreciate that insight. Hopefully, next week I can find enough time to open things up for a look-see. Thanks, my friend.
Regards,
John
How did you clean up the inside of the unit
Natural bristle brush to dust it out.
after burnishing the contacts on protect relay add a dab of mineral oil with an eye dropper or diluted Vaseline so the contacts have air or oxygen or rust protection
+mike murphy the oil or Vaseline would impede signal. The relay is covered so what's to worry about rust?
What is the spray?
Craig deoxit F5. Also called faderlube
@@JordanPier Thanks, is computer cleaner safe to spray?
@@designasaur5354 no. I would not use that.
You can also use CRC QD contact cleaner. Much easier to get. Hardware stores and automotive stores should Cary it.
Take one of the wife's finger nail emery boards to clean contacts on the relay,she will never miss it.
Love all of your videos. You are a great teacher. Do you take in units for service through Fed Ex? can you give me contact info?
Don Hopkinson inbox me pjdylon at gmail
do you , do work on the side i have one to service?
+Dj #1 OU812 ? If you're willing to ship to my workplace, I'll service it. I don't do "side work"-just not enough spare time.
Check repairaudio.com for details
How to you extend the straw of your Deoxit?
+cm2881 heat-shrink tubing
Jordan Pier that's all? No glue or any tubing attaching both straws?
Never had to use glue, though I suppose it might help. I've seen folks use zip ties on the ends of the heatshrink
How do you work in such a filthy shop?
I ALWAYS wait till at least 45 min. before i turn something on after i clean a switch
And.........Their solder work Sucks. I see you know Dave, that's whom I got my lights from. Even with the black bar at bottom, they still glued the bottom portion as was my case. Old vellum has to go, you can buy a 81/2 x 11 57 lb. for 3.00 dollars. Hey, that Kenwood 9000G would be a entertaining video.
Thanks for the video . I’m just going to restore my first receiver. A Marantz 2218, that was given to me, I pulled all the power supply Board caps, one tested bad, half tested ether out of tolerance on their capacitance some of them tested high ESR and two other ones tested low ohms almost shorted but still working. Every button and every pot is sticky or Noisey. Seems like this is a good candidate for a first timer DYI to do a restore.
a person can buy vellem paper from Walmart, 100 sheets 8 1/2 x 11 for $20 (60 weight). that's a lifetime supply. FYI IT SHOULD BE REPLACED BECAUSE AFTER 40 YEARS IT YELLOWS.
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Hi, Man you rock, Awesome channel, I have approx 35 vintage reciever's make need your advice. I let you know..Thanks.
Ужас!!!!!!