Wow.. really NICE welds and SO much easier than what my dad I did years ago sub framing in a 79 Nova front end onto a 51 two door Deluxe Business Coup so we could go from the original straight 6 to 454 big block with dual carbs, 400 trans and positrack rearend. That car would 120 and it felt like it was floating on air. We hand measured along the curve of the frame so we could adjust the ride height of the front end (no drop spindles). We made our own frame gussets and cross members then boxed everything in so that there was NO WAY the frame would come apart. As I said... you're way is MUCH easier and less nerve racking... lol That was an unexpected but pleasant reference from you at the beginning and I will DEFINITELY drink with you my friend!! I'm a big Model fan.. LOVE the Chelada, the Negra and original Especial!!! I noticed in a few shots you're a Michelob Ultra guy... I get it.. you have a figure to maintain.. ;) I like the way you did those rivet heads... I never would have thought of that.. I've always just sheared off the head in the past with a cold chisel and a REALLY big hammer... :) When I get to cutting on my truck to fit that fuel tank in the frame I will definitely use that technique. Keep up the GREAT work!
That’s awesome! That’s one thing I feel the older generation was way better with. Being creative and making things work. Now a days we have the internet and we can look almost anything up. I have great respect for the older generation that Fab’d things up. I can only imagine with todays info and the creativity of the past what could have been built. Hahaha those modelos are good but I need to keep it on the light side, but with you I’d drink what ever you choose 🤙🏼🤙🏼 Again, thanks for the support! I appreciate you!
Very informative. I will keep my 1971 C20 long bed. I have a 1970 C10 that I do later. That I will shorten. You have a trailing arm C20 I have a Leaf spring truck. Debating on just installing a 73-99 rear end for the 5 lug conversion. Another option going with the Q1A rear coilover set up with a 9" rear end set up for trailing arms. Intrested to see how you will do the 5 lug conversion. For you just finding a trailing arm half ton rear end will do. But ill be waiting when you start the suspension work.
I love c20s when they are lifted. If I would of gone that route I would of kept it long bed. I have a buddy that has a 70 c10 that he also converted to shortbed and did the full QA1 coilover trailing arm suspension, and let me tell you it’s bad ass! I’ll upload a video on that later. I already have a 12 bolt posi that came from a 72 blazer, just gonna rebuild it with new clutches/bearings/3.73 gears. I’ll be doing that sooner rather than later. I also do have a PB FAB lay frame kit that has trailing arms. The part that is challenging is aligning that rear. I’ll be posting that up in the next few videos to come. Appreciate the views!! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@ciscomatic_c10 yesh I will take a look at that video. I have seen the video on how to install the Q1A pretty much just cutting rivits and the c notch. Everything else just bolts in.
Just found the video and channel...Nice work brotha. I have a 72 C20 that i will be doing the same long to short conversion to. Ill hit you up when i get started and share my experience.
Thank you sir!! Yes I’d love to hear your experience hopefully this video helps a bit. I know some people are unsure about the c20 but these kits make it a bit easier.
@@LuisGarcia-nd1yt yes I believe this kit should work for the 63. For 63-66 you cut the twelve under the cab exactly where you cut on the 67-72. I would send him a quick email just to be sure, he’s good at getting back to you.
Thanks for posting this. I've been thinking about shortening my C20 for a while. I just need to get started. Any reason you couldn't have kept the C20 rear cab mounts other than the kit not having holes for the 3/4 mounts? I just put new mounts all around, and I would like to keep them.
Yea no worries, any time. So you can still keep the 3/4 mounts. I’m pretty much switching everything to 1/2 ton, that’s why I brought that up. I had already bought the 1/2 mounts before shortening. The 3/4 are just beefier. I’m still using the bracket cuz it’s the same just using c10 mounts now.
I see you had a little trouble with the frame stiffeners and had to use a pry bar to get them to slide into the frame rail. Did you have any trouble with the holes lining up with the ones you drilled from the template? My frame rails it looks like I'm going to have to bend the frame rail to get that stiffener to fit inside it, like the frame stiffener is too tall to fit into the frame rail and the 6 holes that were drilled are not lining up correctly once I pound the frame stiffener in there. Just wanted to see if you had any of those issues? Mine is a 1972 C10 for anyone wondering BTW.
Yes I had to pry a little but it wasn’t too much. The inner stiffener did fit a little snug but I grabbed a rubber mallet and banged it into place. I would switch the stiffener and see if that helps. For me some of the holes did not line up I just started the holes that did. (Also you can grind off some material off with a grinding metal wheel, this helps with aligning). Once I got those started and some what tight I made sure that everything was squared with measuring tape and a level (measured More than a few times). Once I made sure everything was good that’s when I made the holes that didn’t fit bigger. Also my measurements were a little off maybe like an 1/8. These frames weren’t totally squared off factory and depending on the measuring points it’s be a bit off. My buddy also ran into this issue but as long as you get everything right it should be good.
You said you have new C10 mounts so is that why you are not maintaining the same c20 bed mount location? Is the c10 and c20 mount the same with only the rubber pad differing height dimensions?
Correct. From what I remember both those c10/c20 mount brackets look the same. What changes is the actual mount rubbed pad. The c20s are a “beefier” so that Mount bracket sits lower on c20s
Hi thank you for the informative video. I have a question, do you think this can be performed with the cab on? I have my bed off currently but I don’t think I can take on the task of removing the cab.
I have already shortened the bed. I will be cutting the frame this weekend and will update here if anything is a bit different.. in case anyone else with leaf springs is thinking about doing it, hopefully it helps them out. Your video was a big help to motivate me to get started. Thanks again.
Wow.. really NICE welds and SO much easier than what my dad I did years ago sub framing in a 79 Nova front end onto a 51 two door Deluxe Business Coup so we could go from the original straight 6 to 454 big block with dual carbs, 400 trans and positrack rearend. That car would 120 and it felt like it was floating on air. We hand measured along the curve of the frame so we could adjust the ride height of the front end (no drop spindles). We made our own frame gussets and cross members then boxed everything in so that there was NO WAY the frame would come apart.
As I said... you're way is MUCH easier and less nerve racking... lol
That was an unexpected but pleasant reference from you at the beginning and I will DEFINITELY drink with you my friend!! I'm a big Model fan.. LOVE the Chelada, the Negra and original Especial!!! I noticed in a few shots you're a Michelob Ultra guy... I get it.. you have a figure to maintain.. ;)
I like the way you did those rivet heads... I never would have thought of that.. I've always just sheared off the head in the past with a cold chisel and a REALLY big hammer... :) When I get to cutting on my truck to fit that fuel tank in the frame I will definitely use that technique.
Keep up the GREAT work!
That’s awesome! That’s one thing I feel the older generation was way better with. Being creative and making things work. Now a days we have the internet and we can look almost anything up. I have great respect for the older generation that Fab’d things up. I can only imagine with todays info and the creativity of the past what could have been built.
Hahaha those modelos are good but I need to keep it on the light side, but with you I’d drink what ever you choose 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Again, thanks for the support! I appreciate you!
Thank you for going in depth... I know this vid is a year old but I'm doing this to a 72 c10 in a month so now I'm good for knowing more ..
@@RANDOMxx1x yes bro I’m glad it was helpful. This can be done with can on and can off. I’ve done both many times
Cisco, thank you for the shout-out that was very cool.
Thanks again
Anytime man!!! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
Very informative. I will keep my 1971 C20 long bed. I have a 1970 C10 that I do later. That I will shorten. You have a trailing arm C20 I have a Leaf spring truck. Debating on just installing a 73-99 rear end for the 5 lug conversion. Another option going with the Q1A rear coilover set up with a 9" rear end set up for trailing arms. Intrested to see how you will do the 5 lug conversion. For you just finding a trailing arm half ton rear end will do. But ill be waiting when you start the suspension work.
I love c20s when they are lifted. If I would of gone that route I would of kept it long bed. I have a buddy that has a 70 c10 that he also converted to shortbed and did the full QA1 coilover trailing arm suspension, and let me tell you it’s bad ass! I’ll upload a video on that later. I already have a 12 bolt posi that came from a 72 blazer, just gonna rebuild it with new clutches/bearings/3.73 gears. I’ll be doing that sooner rather than later. I also do have a PB FAB lay frame kit that has trailing arms. The part that is challenging is aligning that rear. I’ll be posting that up in the next few videos to come. Appreciate the views!! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
@@ciscomatic_c10 yesh I will take a look at that video. I have seen the video on how to install the Q1A pretty much just cutting rivits and the c notch. Everything else just bolts in.
Just found the video and channel...Nice work brotha. I have a 72 C20 that i will be doing the same long to short conversion to. Ill hit you up when i get started and share my experience.
Thank you sir!! Yes I’d love to hear your experience hopefully this video helps a bit. I know some people are unsure about the c20 but these kits make it a bit easier.
keep up the good work cisco
Thank you sir!!! Appreciate your time in watching the videos! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
This video definitely will help me with my 63 c20 short bed conversion thanks
That’s why I do it man, to help other fellow c10 enthusiasts!! Glad to help!
Do you think this kit will work on a 63? Frame it's pretty much the same except for the front bumper and radiator mounts
@@LuisGarcia-nd1yt yes I believe this kit should work for the 63. For 63-66 you cut the twelve under the cab exactly where you cut on the 67-72. I would send him a quick email just to be sure, he’s good at getting back to you.
Thanks for talking the time to reply l really appreciate you 🙏
@@LuisGarcia-nd1yt you got it man! Anytime
Buenos videos. Cuanto cobras por hacerlos cortos. 67 to 72. Gracias
Thanks for posting this. I've been thinking about shortening my C20 for a while. I just need to get started. Any reason you couldn't have kept the C20 rear cab mounts other than the kit not having holes for the 3/4 mounts? I just put new mounts all around, and I would like to keep them.
Yea no worries, any time. So you can still keep the 3/4 mounts. I’m pretty much switching everything to 1/2 ton, that’s why I brought that up. I had already bought the 1/2 mounts before shortening. The 3/4 are just beefier. I’m still using the bracket cuz it’s the same just using c10 mounts now.
Good stuff brotha i have a c20 i plan on doing the same
There you go man! Totally worth it
I see you had a little trouble with the frame stiffeners and had to use a pry bar to get them to slide into the frame rail. Did you have any trouble with the holes lining up with the ones you drilled from the template? My frame rails it looks like I'm going to have to bend the frame rail to get that stiffener to fit inside it, like the frame stiffener is too tall to fit into the frame rail and the 6 holes that were drilled are not lining up correctly once I pound the frame stiffener in there. Just wanted to see if you had any of those issues? Mine is a 1972 C10 for anyone wondering BTW.
Yes I had to pry a little but it wasn’t too much. The inner stiffener did fit a little snug but I grabbed a rubber mallet and banged it into place. I would switch the stiffener and see if that helps. For me some of the holes did not line up I just started the holes that did. (Also you can grind off some material off with a grinding metal wheel, this helps with aligning). Once I got those started and some what tight I made sure that everything was squared with measuring tape and a level (measured More than a few times). Once I made sure everything was good that’s when I made the holes that didn’t fit bigger. Also my measurements were a little off maybe like an 1/8. These frames weren’t totally squared off factory and depending on the measuring points it’s be a bit off. My buddy also ran into this issue but as long as you get everything right it should be good.
You said you have new C10 mounts so is that why you are not maintaining the same c20 bed mount location? Is the c10 and c20 mount the same with only the rubber pad differing height dimensions?
Correct. From what I remember both those c10/c20 mount brackets look the same. What changes is the actual mount rubbed pad. The c20s are a “beefier” so that Mount bracket sits lower on c20s
Hi thank you for the informative video. I have a question, do you think this can be performed with the cab on? I have my bed off currently but I don’t think I can take on the task of removing the cab.
Yes it can be done with the cab on. It does make it more challenging to do but it can be done with a couple jacks and 6 jack stands
I’m wondering if the process is the same for a C20 with leaf springs.
@@adama9099 yes it should be the same. You’re cutting from under the cab and it should not affect any of the leave spring brackets.
I have already shortened the bed. I will be cutting the frame this weekend and will update here if anything is a bit different.. in case anyone else with leaf springs is thinking about doing it, hopefully it helps them out. Your video was a big help to motivate me to get started. Thanks again.
@@adama9099 any time!! Please let me know how it turns out!
Where to buy the kit to cut the chassis?
Buen día, donde puedo conseguir ese kit?
www.longshotfab.com/products/67-72-c10-short-bed-conversion
Where did you buy the kit?
It’s on long shot fab. They’re on instagram and also have a small webpage. www.longshotfab.com
Is it possible to do this with a 81 c20 ?
Yes you can shorten all c10/c20s
@@ciscomatic_c10 How much to do that to a 81 c20 just gotta buy a kit ?
@@andrewcasarez7377 the kit for the 73-87 c10/c20 is a little more. Brothers/POL/PbFab ect sell them