Your video was very helpful! Hopefully, this comment of my experience can help someone too! i Spent the day today assembling my swamp runner large kit with my 22hp predator motor on my boat, and your video walked me through pretty much step by step through the whole process. i did run into some problems that you didn't experience. (1) the coupler shaft seemed to not slide all the way flush with part of the output shaft, and so the coupler housing didn't fit flush either. i kind of tried different things to figure out if it should be flush before bolting the coupler housing to the engine, and was unsuccessful until i just bolted the coupler housing to the shaft without it being flush, and when tightening the bolts, the housing eventually became flush. It just wasn't really clear in your video if it should have been flush to the rear of the engine before bolting the coupler housing. (2) feeding the kill switch and ground wires through the tiller handle was a HUGE pain! The tiller handle has 2 relatively sharp bends in it near the engine so it was very difficult to get those flimsy wires through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle. To fix this, i drilled (with a bit larger than the size of the original hole) into one of the holes near the handle part of the tiller handle where the wires and throttle cable go into the tiller handle pipe. That made it easier for me to feed my snake into the pipe and tape my wires onto the snake and push it through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle pipe. (3) Removing and adjusting the throttle cable was very difficult. On my 22 hp predator motor, the phillips screw that holds the end of the throttle cable to the engine throttle body is in a tight spot. The head of the phillips screw faces toward the back of the boat and it is less than an inch away from the exhaust. This bade it impossible to get any normal screw driver in there to loosen and tighten the screw. To fix this, i got a pair of vice grips and clamped them perpendicularly onto a phillips head (removable attachment phillips head that is used for screw drivers that you can change the heads on) and got it onto the head of the screw and i was then able to loosen the screw and adjust the throttle cable on the throttle body. (4) [this isn't really a problem, but i think this was just a simpler way of doing it] So at about the 15-16 minute mark, when you wire up the kill switch, (instead of doing it the way you did and using another wire and using more connectors) i just spliced my kill switch wire straight into the oil wire and eliminated make that "Y" with the kill switch wire and splicing it with the oil wire. Your way was great and i think it looks good, but it just seemed like an unnecessary step (just my opinion) But besides these 4 things, it all came together pretty well and with ease. Honestly without this video, assembling this would have been very difficult and way more time consuming. i will be uploading my video of my build and installation of everything, if you want to check that out. I will reply to this comment when i upload it with the link to that video. OVERALL, thanks for making this video and i hope this comment can help out anyone who runs into similar issues and experiences.
Absolutely awesome step-by-step video! EVERY how to video should be this well developed, no matter what its detailing!! Very professionally done. Good hunting this winter my friend.
Well done video. Clear and to the point. No additional music, very clear camera shots, and although I am mechanically inclined, I appreciate the fact you did explain the simpler things. (Lining up the throttle cable grooves for the handle. ) hats off to a great video.
My neighbor's teenage son purchased one of these. He was able to assemble it on his own. The simplicity makes them durable & the maneuverability is really impressive. I'm not trying to say this is a bad product, because it's not. It's really a good product. I'm also not trying to dissuade anyone from purchasing this product. There's a serious flaw in this design though. I wouldn't recognize it if I hadn't made the same mistake myself. The "spline adapter nut" should be secured in a way that locks the threads. Something more substantial than nylock is needed to do the job. The consequences of not doing so are that the first time the engine backfires, that nut WILL unscrew. Any seals or bearings between there and the end of the prop shaft are toast. You're also going to have a whole lot more play in the end of the prop shaft than you want, assuming it doesn't blow the prop shaft out of the end of the housing. I've had the combination of twisting and pushing between two fixed points of a 170cc predator engine break a 3/4" grade 8 bolt... This type of engine is most likely to backfire when trying to start it while warmed up and with resistance. Something like weeds & debris on the prop, or a partially engaged engine brake. I never did find a way to solve the problem with my mud motor in this configuration, so I can tell you for certain what won't work: Welds, shear pins, locktite or carrier bearings/pillow blocks. What might bypass this flaw is reworking the spline adapter nut and the shaft it screws on to. Grind the threads off the shaft, and make flat spots on opposing sides of the shaft. Make the hole in the spline adapter nut match. Once the threads are gone, a circlip should be sufficient to secure it in place.
Great video! I like that I can hear you loud and clear, you have good tips and trick. It was quick, but you did rush through the important steps. I like that you walk us through the project as you would talk to a friend and a two year old. I liked the project itself. Thanks for sharing.
I would only add that I usually run a sqaush plate between my boat transom and the mount screws. I use either a 1/4" Aluminum plate or have used a 1/2" pine board as simple as a cutoff piece. The pine board is actually not bad. It is just soft enought to make the screws bite in and lock it in place into the wood. That causes it to not drift around at all. Anything to avoid a indention of a circle into your hull.
A great add on to this kit is an electric clutch on the pto. They come in every size and hp rating u could imagine. Not only simple way to add a neutral "gear" to these simple designs but also provides for some slip when u inevitably jam the prop on that cypress knee that grew 3 inches since last year. Also works nearly instantly (prop and mass of shaft will give it a few spins even when disconnected) so when u feel that log kiss the bow u can hit the button and have the prop and shaft fully disconnected from power. Also i suppose u could wire it up so that u have to hold a button to keep it in gear and have it drop out when released, def b safer for kids and people new to the boats
I want to thank you for doing such a great video .....the kit I got came without instructions and I just easily followed along with your video and got it done....thank you!!
Thanks for the video! I’m getting one of these kits. It will be superior to the 9.9 outboard on my Jon boat: I’ll be able to go in much shallower water!
Thx bro your video helped the install go very smooth. I just bought a large kit and it was pretty simple for an average joe like myself. Great video, very detailed, keep it going
Fantastic Video Wiring Was A little Intimidating But Overall This Will Be My Go To Video ! I Want To Buy The Kit And The Predator 6.5 Motor. Wish The 8Hp Would Fit The $499 Kit Can’t Find A Predator 7Hp Thanks Again For A Great Learning Video
“Everything you need to build this motor comes in this kit, minus a few things.” List off tons of stuff. 🤣😂. I’m looking into getting one of theses. Thank you.
If u don't have some wire, washers, nuts, bolts, cables, welders, pipes, grinders , etc. You dont need to worry about a swamp boat. I love that long props on air cooled commercial motors is making a comeback, we used to use old clapped out pressure washer honda 1cyl horizontal shaft motors, w a bare pipe (no shaft in a housing) that had welded into the end the taper cut off a busted outboard final drive to spin the screw. Its a fun project but put that money into buying some basic tools, some wire, and misc connectors, and a little known secret u can goto almost any u pull it, bring a bare minimum metric socket set and a pair of pliers, and a 5 gallon bucket. Spend a couple hours picking up matching nuts, bolts, and washers. Fill up bucket and pay by the lb. That bucket full of misc, connectors will last u a lifetime. In fact while ur there pick up a steel 5 gallon oil/grease drum use that to hold the bolts. Add a splash of used motor oil of the last 1/3 of a wd40 can that never dispensed properly, u can pass the bucket down to ur children
You got me! I'm hooked, what a wonderful and clear presentation! Thank you for sharing, God bless you and your subscribers with good health and good fishing for 2020!
Great video!!!!! Been curious about doing this cause I wasn't sure how good it would work on the rivers in northwest Florida but if I do you helped me tremendously.
Any advice on getting the male and female splines to line up? I can get the shaft set so it doesn't slide in and out but the shaft will turn forward and backwards. So basically you can't loosen the nut for the prop.
Great video. If your tightening the shaft wing nuts with a tool why not use bolts/nuts? Bolts/nuts would be much cleaner install. I guess why do they use giant wing bolts there anyways?
Just bought a kit second hand.. thinking about taking everything apart and evaluating parts to see what needs to be replaced. Kit is only about 2 years old
I normally torque things quarter turn past snug with no problems. I was changing the water on my truck, decided to use a torque wrench, broke a bolt. I kept thinking it felt too tight, SNAP. Not sure if it was a faulty wrench or I set it wrong.(probably set it wrong) Now I’m back to quarter turn past snug. Lol
Medium kit would probably be best, but I had a 22hp (with a large kit) on a 14 footer and it was very fast. The only problem I had was my transom flexing when i would gun it. If your transom can handle it, then put on a 22hp large kit
Is keeping the oil sensor connected the same as you going to make my engine cut off if the oil shakes around while I’m riding? I’ve heard of people having to keep theirs disconnected
![경적 울리자 “운전 안 해”…본인 차 부순 여성 [잇슈 키워드] / KBS 2024.11.22.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6XehApxYB7U/mqdefault.jpg)
Your video was very helpful! Hopefully, this comment of my experience can help someone too!
i Spent the day today assembling my swamp runner large kit with my 22hp predator motor on my boat, and your video walked me through pretty much step by step through the whole process. i did run into some problems that you didn't experience.
(1) the coupler shaft seemed to not slide all the way flush with part of the output shaft, and so the coupler housing didn't fit flush either. i kind of tried different things to figure out if it should be flush before bolting the coupler housing to the engine, and was unsuccessful until i just bolted the coupler housing to the shaft without it being flush, and when tightening the bolts, the housing eventually became flush. It just wasn't really clear in your video if it should have been flush to the rear of the engine before bolting the coupler housing.
(2) feeding the kill switch and ground wires through the tiller handle was a HUGE pain! The tiller handle has 2 relatively sharp bends in it near the engine so it was very difficult to get those flimsy wires through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle. To fix this, i drilled (with a bit larger than the size of the original hole) into one of the holes near the handle part of the tiller handle where the wires and throttle cable go into the tiller handle pipe. That made it easier for me to feed my snake into the pipe and tape my wires onto the snake and push it through the bends and out of the back of the tiller handle pipe.
(3) Removing and adjusting the throttle cable was very difficult. On my 22 hp predator motor, the phillips screw that holds the end of the throttle cable to the engine throttle body is in a tight spot. The head of the phillips screw faces toward the back of the boat and it is less than an inch away from the exhaust. This bade it impossible to get any normal screw driver in there to loosen and tighten the screw. To fix this, i got a pair of vice grips and clamped them perpendicularly onto a phillips head (removable attachment phillips head that is used for screw drivers that you can change the heads on) and got it onto the head of the screw and i was then able to loosen the screw and adjust the throttle cable on the throttle body.
(4) [this isn't really a problem, but i think this was just a simpler way of doing it] So at about the 15-16 minute mark, when you wire up the kill switch, (instead of doing it the way you did and using another wire and using more connectors) i just spliced my kill switch wire straight into the oil wire and eliminated make that "Y" with the kill switch wire and splicing it with the oil wire. Your way was great and i think it looks good, but it just seemed like an unnecessary step (just my opinion)
But besides these 4 things, it all came together pretty well and with ease. Honestly without this video, assembling this would have been very difficult and way more time consuming.
i will be uploading my video of my build and installation of everything, if you want to check that out. I will reply to this comment when i upload it with the link to that video.
OVERALL, thanks for making this video and i hope this comment can help out anyone who runs into similar issues and experiences.
Can't you duy a boat engine for me
A 15
Aveenish Samuel sure
God wil blest you
Use a vacuum to sock a string through backwards. The string pulls the wires through.
I don’t even have a John boat. But after this video I want one so I can put that motor on.!!
Super clear instructions. Does not get better then this..
I have no interest in doing this but I watched the whole thing because of your excellent presentation.
Thank you!
same but i just can't afford it
Well just make one
Absolutely awesome step-by-step video! EVERY how to video should be this well developed, no matter what its detailing!! Very professionally done. Good hunting this winter my friend.
Well done video. Clear and to the point. No additional music, very clear camera shots, and although I am mechanically inclined, I appreciate the fact you did explain the simpler things. (Lining up the throttle cable grooves for the handle. ) hats off to a great video.
Thanks, you have the BEST, MOST IN DEPTH VIDEO ON TH-cam,,, ABSOLUTELY AWESOME!!! AGAIN THANK YOU SIR.
My neighbor's teenage son purchased one of these.
He was able to assemble it on his own.
The simplicity makes them durable & the maneuverability is really impressive.
I'm not trying to say this is a bad product, because it's not.
It's really a good product.
I'm also not trying to dissuade anyone from purchasing this product.
There's a serious flaw in this design though.
I wouldn't recognize it if I hadn't made the same mistake myself.
The "spline adapter nut" should be secured in a way that locks the threads.
Something more substantial than nylock is needed to do the job.
The consequences of not doing so are that the first time the engine backfires, that nut WILL unscrew.
Any seals or bearings between there and the end of the prop shaft are toast.
You're also going to have a whole lot more play in the end of the prop shaft than you want, assuming it doesn't blow the prop shaft out of the end of the housing.
I've had the combination of twisting and pushing between two fixed points of a 170cc predator engine break a 3/4" grade 8 bolt...
This type of engine is most likely to backfire when trying to start it while warmed up and with resistance.
Something like weeds & debris on the prop, or a partially engaged engine brake.
I never did find a way to solve the problem with my mud motor in this configuration, so I can tell you for certain what won't work:
Welds, shear pins, locktite or carrier bearings/pillow blocks.
What might bypass this flaw is reworking the spline adapter nut and the shaft it screws on to.
Grind the threads off the shaft, and make flat spots on opposing sides of the shaft. Make the hole in the spline adapter nut match.
Once the threads are gone, a circlip should be sufficient to secure it in place.
This was very helpful and showed me in and out on how to put a mud motor together
Helped me wrap it up! Thanks for the video!
(New SPS kit came with a double female end on the wiring. In other words, everything was included)
This is a great instructional video! Good camera angles, good sound, super straight forward. Thanks
Great step by step video! Gives me confidence that I can build one on my own!
Great video! I like that I can hear you loud and clear, you have good tips and trick. It was quick, but you did rush through the important steps. I like that you walk us through the project as you would talk to a friend and a two year old. I liked the project itself. Thanks for sharing.
Presentation was so good....I had to watch it just like Mike C.
No interest or need...just keep my interest up.
Great job. Thanks
I would only add that I usually run a sqaush plate between my boat transom and the mount screws. I use either a 1/4" Aluminum plate or have used a 1/2" pine board as simple as a cutoff piece. The pine board is actually not bad. It is just soft enought to make the screws bite in and lock it in place into the wood. That causes it to not drift around at all. Anything to avoid a indention of a circle into your hull.
Great video! Nicely done. I would never sieze the keyway and motor shaft. Those always freeze up when you try to replace motor on us.
A great add on to this kit is an electric clutch on the pto. They come in every size and hp rating u could imagine. Not only simple way to add a neutral "gear" to these simple designs but also provides for some slip when u inevitably jam the prop on that cypress knee that grew 3 inches since last year. Also works nearly instantly (prop and mass of shaft will give it a few spins even when disconnected) so when u feel that log kiss the bow u can hit the button and have the prop and shaft fully disconnected from power. Also i suppose u could wire it up so that u have to hold a button to keep it in gear and have it drop out when released, def b safer for kids and people new to the boats
Where could you get one of those? I recently broke my prop in the exact same manner lol
What about a centrifugal clutch
I want to thank you for doing such a great video .....the kit I got came without instructions and I just easily followed along with your video and got it done....thank you!!
I see a teacher and a leader.
This will def be my goto vid this Spring.
Great video. Very detailed. I think I'm going to go this route instead of a $1500.00 outboard that will give me tons of trouble
I still love these kits. Way more reliable than an outboard.
THis guy looks KOOL putting all parts on.
Thanks for the video! I’m getting one of these kits. It will be superior to the 9.9 outboard on my Jon boat: I’ll be able to go in much shallower water!
You'll be surprised how shallow these things can go
Thx bro your video helped the install go very smooth. I just bought a large kit and it was pretty simple for an average joe like myself. Great video, very detailed, keep it going
Thank you this helped me how so much I liked how you explained every step in detail thank you
Thank you for the great video I followed it and built my mud motor!
This is an introduction to making your own boat.
th-cam.com/video/eVqsZv4FjNs/w-d-xo.html
It is necessary to lubricate the cone under the screw, so that it is easier to remove later, tested in practice
Great video I'm ordering my kit tomorrow.
Great video and information. Really easy to follow.
Awesome kit. I have seen videos of these running in the lakes, and they really move.
Torque specs,do as I say not as I do 🤣 awesome video.Working on getting this set up for myself...
Great instructional video, intending on purchasing one of the kits for my stealth 2000
Pretty cool had no idea anyone offered such a thing . As most know a ready to go unit is very expensive.
I just started looking into doing this so thank you for the kickass video. Excellent job!
Thank you!
@@PolkFishin que ra
Clearly and easy to understand... 👍👍👍👍😁😁😁😁😀😀😀😀
Got me ready to buy one !! Great job good video
just ordered this kit for my 1432 Alumacraft as i do allot of river fishing with it ..
You'll love it
Thank you for sharing the video. It's great. I am also a fan. I hope to get your advice. I also want to build my own boat. Thank you.
Very thourel good vidio, have a blessed day bro
Fantastic Video Wiring Was A little Intimidating But Overall This Will Be My Go To Video ! I Want To Buy The Kit And The Predator 6.5 Motor. Wish The 8Hp Would Fit The $499 Kit Can’t Find A Predator 7Hp Thanks Again For A Great Learning Video
Great video. Very informational.
have a 212cc left over from go kart racing. Going to make one because I can.
“Everything you need to build this motor comes in this kit, minus a few things.” List off tons of stuff. 🤣😂. I’m looking into getting one of theses. Thank you.
lol
If u don't have some wire, washers, nuts, bolts, cables, welders, pipes, grinders , etc. You dont need to worry about a swamp boat. I love that long props on air cooled commercial motors is making a comeback, we used to use old clapped out pressure washer honda 1cyl horizontal shaft motors, w a bare pipe (no shaft in a housing) that had welded into the end the taper cut off a busted outboard final drive to spin the screw. Its a fun project but put that money into buying some basic tools, some wire, and misc connectors, and a little known secret u can goto almost any u pull it, bring a bare minimum metric socket set and a pair of pliers, and a 5 gallon bucket. Spend a couple hours picking up matching nuts, bolts, and washers. Fill up bucket and pay by the lb. That bucket full of misc, connectors will last u a lifetime. In fact while ur there pick up a steel 5 gallon oil/grease drum use that to hold the bolts. Add a splash of used motor oil of the last 1/3 of a wd40 can that never dispensed properly, u can pass the bucket down to ur children
Just got one of these kits can’t wait to try it out thanks for the step by step buddy I hit that bell to bud
I like the new throttle handle they have now. It's aluminum.
You got me! I'm hooked, what a wonderful and clear presentation! Thank you for sharing, God bless you and your subscribers with good health and good fishing for 2020!
Thank you for this video. It helped me a lot.
Wondered if I could do that great instructional video
This is a very good video, great job !
The best instruction
Makes you want to go out and build one....
Great video!!!!! Been curious about doing this cause I wasn't sure how good it would work on the rivers in northwest Florida but if I do you helped me tremendously.
It'll get you through the thick stuff with no problem.
thanks bud, good info and right to the point.
Thanks for the video man.
Nice video mate thanks a lot for your time awesome!
Any advice on getting the male and female splines to line up? I can get the shaft set so it doesn't slide in and out but the shaft will turn forward and backwards. So basically you can't loosen the nut for the prop.
Make sure when you bolt motor up make sure you use lock tight they will rattle loose
Great video. If your tightening the shaft wing nuts with a tool why not use bolts/nuts? Bolts/nuts would be much cleaner install. I guess why do they use giant wing bolts there anyways?
Awesome video man!
Awesome job 👍👍👍
👍 Sehr gut und schön, danke!
Great "No BS" video.
Great job!
Very helpful! Thanks 👍🏻
Awesome video brother and great presentation! Makes me wanna take out my Swamp Runner. It been a while Lol! Ringing the 🔔 and Tight lines!
Cool. I would like to do one with a motorcycle engine with you
Just bought a kit second hand.. thinking about taking everything apart and evaluating parts to see what needs to be replaced. Kit is only about 2 years old
I would mainly just inspect the bushing and the bearings.
Have you taken the kit apart yet? Or is it still on the motor?
I have to agree with Mike C below. I have no interest in this, but others should take note of the excellent presentation.
Awesome video
Dode send me all the info on what motor and all the accessories to build me one for my boat
Great video...you’ve got a new sub
you did a very informative job with the prep and step by step guide. I'm interested in making one for myself. who , where do I get in Canada
I honestly don't know. You could hit up SPS North America and see if they'd ship to Canada, but I'm not sure.
Great project!
Thank for information can i copy right
Thank you sir!!!
well payed sir
Nice video sir,,,new subsriber
A really well done video! Thanks for sharing, I subscribed. What was the approximate total cost of this rig, once completed?
TIM HARDIN
I did a review of this kit in another video, and broke down the cost vs a traditional outboard. Be sure to check it out!
You mind sharing the link for this kit please and thank you very much
It's in the description
Very good and I which to have one and how can I get it
website is in the description
Thank you!
Wow, fantastic video! Thanks!
Excellent video. Subbed.
Great video, you make it look easy. I'll have to subscribe to see what else you can make look easy. Besides, I think we're neighbors.
Looks awesome is there a quick and easy link to this kit on google
Right here ----> mudmotorkit.com/mud-motor-kits-112.html
Good job..
Well played sir
Cool shit . Looks like I can follow this .
Interested in getting one of those kits.
Maximiliano Feria
They’re awesome. Did you have any questions about them?
Yes. How do I purchase that kit. I can get the motor in harbor freight. But the outdrive I don’t know.
Thanks
@@mftoutdoors7483
Here you go bud:
mudmotorkit.com/mud-motor-kits.html
Badass vid
Grande engenheira.
So you’ve got a calibrated wrist also, I use mine all the time for torquing nuts and bolts to proper spec
I normally torque things quarter turn past snug with no problems. I was changing the water on my truck, decided to use a torque wrench, broke a bolt. I kept thinking it felt too tight, SNAP. Not sure if it was a faulty wrench or I set it wrong.(probably set it wrong) Now I’m back to quarter turn past snug. Lol
Grease or anti-seize coat the PTO shaft as it goes on. That's for the next guy who has to pull it off.
That could be you.
;)
Been thinking about putting one on my 14' Lowe for hard to get fishing areas and what size would you recommend on motor and kit?
Medium kit would probably be best, but I had a 22hp (with a large kit) on a 14 footer and it was very fast. The only problem I had was my transom flexing when i would gun it. If your transom can handle it, then put on a 22hp large kit
Are there sleeves on both sides for left and right handed???
How often do you flush the shaft out? Also what kind of grease do you recommend
I never did unless I took it in saltwater.
I used regular marine grease from autozone
Do you have a link for the sps kit
By typing into Google search, you actually have half of the sentence right there. Links are good for specialty or hard to look up items.
thanks brother🤘🇺🇸💪
Great video!
Thank you!
has anyone run these motor setups in super shallow rocky water? subb btw
I've run them through mud, rocks, and hard sandy bottoms. The prop won't hit the bottom due to the blade that sits underneath it
Outstanding. Thank you
Is keeping the oil sensor connected the same as you going to make my engine cut off if the oil shakes around while I’m riding? I’ve heard of people having to keep theirs disconnected
I had that issue taking sharp turns down rivers. If I had to do it again, I would definitely bypass that sensor