Dressing the flap-wheel by reversing it - pure genius!!! I have a couple that I was going to throw out as they were so badly grooved. Thanks again Joe, you never disappoint.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost my password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Colt Torin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Here is a tip for the home shop guys who don't have the $ to drop on the wheels available commercially and aren't doing tons of work and just need to clean up a few pieces. Make friends with the guys who take care of the floors where you work. The floor scrubbers and burnishers use wheels with a punch out center that is 3-3/4" in diameter. If you ask them nicely they will probably give you all of these little gems you could ever need. They come in a multitude of "grit sizes" from white which is a super fine burnishing wheel to black which is a stripping wheel. There are at least a dozen different colors in between. They are 3/4" thick and with a little work you can adapt them to fit on any arbor size you need to fit with a punch or die. I use them for everything including scrubbing pots in the kitchen at home. They are fantastic for polishing metal in the shop but they will break down quickly but then the cost on them is nothing and they work like a charm. Got some rust you need to remove? Grab one. Paint to remove? Check. Get a mirror like polish? Grab a white one and go to town. Like I said, you can probably get them for free or a six pack at most. The bigger the floor area, the more they will go through keeping them clean and shiny. I've gotten whole shopping bags full when the floors are being worked from stripping to polished.
Improve the performance of a wire wheel by reversing it occasionally. The wires get worn in one direction. When reversed, it has sharp, pointed wires that are very aggressive until they get worn down then its time to reverse it again. Try it and be surprised at the difference. 👍🏻. 🇺🇸😎
This is a little off topic-- but i wanted to mention that I have some sharpie pens that have lasted 7 years. Here is how I did it. When a pen starts drying up, I get a piece of 1" long surgical rubber tubing. I use the semi clear stuff. This has a about a 3/16" Id and fits the end where the pens wick (tip) sticks out. I have a piece of wood drilled with a 1/2' set of holes drilled into it, I stand up the pen in the hole, slip the tubing over the tip end, and add about 3/4' of Denatured alcohol. you can see it fill up thru the tubing. when it reaches the top - I put the pens cap on it. I stand up about 3 at a time like this, it takes about 4 hours for the d.alc to wick back into the pen. next day I observe that it is done , pull off the tubing , wipe up any residue, and recap The pen. Like I say the pens can last a long time, there is a lot of ink in them, it just prematurely dries up with all the dry stuff you mark. Another point -- These Can be used as Emergency lighting -- just light the end of the pen -- it essentially is an alcohol light. watch out it might melt down being plastic so best not to hold it.
Thank you Joe. As always, I learned several things from you. I hope you know how much you are appreciated and what a difference these videos make in the experience of everyone doing this sort of thing.
Fabulously useful! I have often been disappointed with the surface finish of things I have machined & now I have a way to make them look better. Thank you!
As always, good stuff Joe. I use the 3m 9s fine exclusively.. usually for deburring finished machined edges. When I was an apprentice back in the late 90s, I would have to use that wheel to buff .03 radii around a 6 sided block. If I didn't get the radii to meet perfectly at the corners, or the deburred edge wasnt the same width along the entire part, I would have to start over. I use the same practice to this day.
Love the content you produce. Noticed that last scotchbrite you used on the right side of the buffer was held on with just a few threads since the spacer was a little too long.
Happy Independence Day from one patriot to another... Thanks for this and all your videos!... Ironically, I just this afternoon loaded up an old pedestal grinder that needs a new switch and cord from my storage building to take it to my shop. Now I know what kind of wheels to put on it! Blessings my brother!
Joe, Im certain you know that too much pressure will only make a mess on the floor. A light touch and let the wheel do work, even on heat treated parts. Excellent video as always
Thanks for another one Joe. I have the exact same set up and I'm really pleased not only with the finishes but how well these wheels hold up. 3M makes some very impressive products.
Thanks Joe for the tips on deburring, before everyone goes down to their local b&q or Home Depot, they should be looking for a beefier motor and not the budget 6” 400 watt ones, they just struggle to fight their way out of a paper bag! Never mind trying to keep things going with integrity!Usually the 8 “ bench grinders have a little more oomph, you could always look for a used Ex-industrial electric motor nearer to a 1horsepower plus the momentum of the mass of the shaft /rotor etc give good torque. Then make a custom adapter to mount on the shaft and appropriate size threaded output for the wheels etc. Most guys will know this from experience but the odd one or two might not, for the cost of a new budget grinder you can buy twice the HP motor on the likes of eBay. Like I said before,I’m not trying to teach folk how to suck eggs, but if I save one guy from ending up disappointed, then I’d be happy enough ,thanks again Joe, soon as you mentioned the 3M fibre discs I did a quick search, Christ they are dear but if the save time and money, it validates them. Take it easy Joe. Phil from the 🇬🇧
thanks for the comment Phil. For grinders that will see some pressure, I always go to my Baldor. For buffing, my little budget motor is doing OK for now.
I snagged a 10-amp 7" variable speed Ryobi angle grinder with variable speed that's quite useful. The 1800 RPM to 6000 RPM range has been super convenient. I think a water bath machine similar to a metallurgical polishing table would be killer as a vertical assembly. Like a cross between a Tormek and a surface grinder, but with sandpaper, nonwoven, and white AO wheel capabililty.
Always fun, informative video. A lot to pick up from Joe! (And I always wondered what sort of “dust” got caught on your spider’s legs. If nothing else those spiders have burr-free legs which you can’t say about spiders in general.) that reverse the flap wheel idea is a good one.
Did you get your bike back together? I only saw the front wheel in the vid. Great tip on deburring. I use the scotch brite wheels at work to debur my parts every day they are a huge time saver.
Fantastic! What would you recommend for 1/2" aluminum rod (don't want to deform it). Moving to better aluminum (6061), but right now using 6063 bubblegum. Seems challenging to easily cleanup in a production run.
One thing to add on those EXL Wheels -- They are Very Directional -- If you run them Backwards -- You can dig in and literally have a pile of gray fuzzy spaghetti all over the place. The directionality is easily determined with the hand -- Rub one way, and it is smooth, the other way (The wrong way) it has a drag effect to it. Run it toward you the way it feels smooth. They do not always have Arrows on the sides. Very Important.
Another great vid, thanks Joe. Please may I ask that you do a video on stoning a mill table and vise please. I would like your take on this subject, and would like to know what Whetstone you use. Thanks, Rob.
Thanks for sharing this, Joe. I've been playing with making my own scotch bright polishers from sheets but I think it's time to get a couple of dedicated wheels.
The wide ones hold up for a long time, the softer pink wheels wear a lot quicker. Its a great combination. Good to hear from you Tom. I hope you and your family are well.
I use the Scotch Bright too. Medium in AO, and fine in SiC. AO for steel and SS, and SiC for aluminum and other soft metals, occasionally for plastic, but just barely touch with plastics, or there won’t be any plastic left after a second.
Thanks for the info. I bought some 1" Scotch Brite wheels, made an arbor for them and use them in a cordless Dremel I keep by my mill. They work great and saves steps to the bench grinder.
You definitely called it on the scotch bright wheel. I only have 1 grinder in the shop and I always keep a scotch brite wheel on one side. Deburring made easy!
These things are surprisingly hard to find in Canada. You prety much are forced to buy online and prices vary like crazy. Thanks for the close up so I could see the model. Tenaquip sells them for $92 while Amazon wants $230. Try to get them from the US and they are $50 plus $200 in shipping.
Oh crap!, once those Spiders see this vid, they'll realise it's actually you, that's been pi$$ing them off with the furry stuff, I'd watch your back for a while, Joe;). Happy 4th of July, mate.
They both have their place. Unless you use a Dremel, or something like it, you can’t deburr an 1/8” hole without marring the surface with one of these. I know, because sometimes I get lazy, and try it, using the corner of the wheel.
That $79.99 Starrett House Brick includes a traceability certificate and its edges are parallel to within 0.01deg. Unfortunately it doesn't come with a case, just a simple cardstock box. :-/
Just in time, I need to clean up the rear wheels on the 2" traction engine. I have tried the scotchbrite wheels with 6 leaves and they work well, but the solid version looks even better
Tip of the year: how to properly dress a flap wheel. Now excuse me while I’m gonna cry over all the flap wheels I discarded because I didn’t know how to dress them...
The flap wheel tip was cool but do you have any tips for dressing the fiber wheels? They always have grooves and large radii worn into them that make it hard to get into corners. I've even tried a carbide endmill and it wore down the endmill pretty fast without doing anything be ripping chunks out of the wheel
I use expired carbide turning inserts held by my trusty vise grip. I cut like 8 or 10 grooves even across the wheel, then go back and forth until nice and round. I should add that you have to jam the insert in the wheel with quite a bit of force, (not really possible to do without some kind of rest on the grinder) otherwise the wheel will annihilate the remaining edge of the insert before it removes any of the wheel. We use these to deburr everything in our shop, but most of the buffoons I work with insist on cutting as deep of grooves as possible in the wheel.
I agree with the other comment. Use a worn out insert and rake the wheel. I believe speed is your friend and use some pressure. If you try to dress the wheel, the wheel will win.
Hit the wrong button. One way to dress a S/B wl is to get a piece of anti slip tape (local hardware store) and stick it to a flat piece of wood. Then lightly run the abrasive against the S/B wl. The more aggressive the anti slip tape is the faster the wl gets dressed.
A lot of these wheels seem to have weird mounting requirements. For example, that loose scotch-brite wheel need some sort of a flange to support it, as well as the convolute wheels, which in the 8-in size all seem to have a 3-in diameter hole. Specific recommendations, including mounting hardware, for an 8-in bench grinder would be greatly appreciated.
There are flanges by 3M that reduce the 3" hole down to whatever arbor size you have. I am currently using Jet 1hp buffer that have the 5/8" arbor. If that is what you have search for "3M Brand Tapered Flange 356" for the 3" to 5/8" arbor reduction. Check at trugrit DOT com. I know 3M makes other 3" hole flanges that reduce to other size arbors. Again check at trugrit DOT com , look under "Buff-etch-sharpen" . I think Jantz knifemaking has them as well.
@@joepie221 yup.. I've had a few experiences.. along with wire wheels grabbing stuff and throwing it across the shop... Goes a long well with those brain fart moments where you go over some bare skin with the oxy acetylene torch.. you stop having brain farts after that
Another great tip. I did not know then EXL deburring wheels but read on the 3M site that these work best on sharp corners and burrs - something where most other wheels will break up fast. But the tip for straightening flap wheels is great. I have to run to our trash bin to get some old flap wheels out right now 👍
Hi Joe I’ve been looking for a buffer/deburrer and Baldor comes into my mind , what horsepower should I chose to start with . 1/2 , 3/4 , 1 hp ? I know they are very pricey, but they got very good quality to them . Thanks Mike
You can hear in the video that he doesnt use one. Once you get used to the wheels you can just hold your breath, deburr and walk away without breathing anything in
Actually for a single piece, I do take a deep breath and hold it while I work. For aluminum or multiple parts, I have a mask hanging right alongside the machine. Once direct sunlight shines on the work area, it looks like a snow globe with all the material in the air. A mask is a very good idea.
I’ve looked all over for the 3M CP-7AM cut wheel/disc you have on the video and cannot find it. Could you or someone give me a site or maybe a part number for that wheel?
Recently, I've been using wheels from Benchmark Abrasives. BM-SPW45AO_1 has been my go-to disc (leaves a lovely finish that's better than 320 grit sandpaper). Now that you point out R.S. Hughes, it's time to go shopping, since they have a mega selection.
Good stuff Joe. I'm typically use a Kalamazoo 1 inch belt sander like this to do the majority of my deburing. But have a scotch bright wheel on a buffer if I need a finer finish. Don't really use the spongy wheels except for flat ones on a angle die grinder. My buffer has a SS wire wheel on the other side for cleaning and deburing threads. Wire wheels don't do too bad for deburing edges and cleaning welds. I not an expert but have been work with metal on and off for almost 60 years. www.travers.com/1-x-42-sander/p/87-135-001/
The only had thing about those 3M convolute wheels is they are hella expensive....usually $70+ from what I've found....I've got some I bought off Amazon that are 6" wheels, clearly Chinese, they were $12 each, but they don't last near as long as the 3M ones we have at the shop....
I personally never wear gloves around anything that spins, I'd rather a little burn than get caught and pulled into the machine. Just my opinion, not a recommendation
@@sharg0 myself aswell, have had a finger caught and torn up in a 5" grinder with a meat axe blade, only the once, and only because I was wearing a glove, caught it and pulled my hand in, if I wasnt wearing gloves, all it would have done was nic my finger tip. Very hard arguement to win with OHSA but experience and lateral thinking are rules, not a paper pushing desk sitter. Lol. I'm in New Zealand, so unsure of rules in other countries, but here, over the last thirty years, things have gotten a little stupid. Removing the thinker from the job, robot do this, this way. Lol
I just consumed a brand new high quality file only by rounding of the edges on 2 pcs. Ø 200 mm t=3 mm stainless 316 that had been water cut. That steel is a real bitch to grind and polish.
!["ซี - เอมี่ " ย้อนความรัก 19 ปี ที่ต้องทนกันและกัน... | แฉ 22 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ykv9ILzatHM/mqdefault.jpg)
Dressing the flap-wheel by reversing it - pure genius!!! I have a couple that I was going to throw out as they were so badly grooved. Thanks again Joe, you never disappoint.
i dont mean to be so off topic but does anyone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost my password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Rodney Patrick instablaster :)
@Colt Torin i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Colt Torin It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
@Rodney Patrick Glad I could help xD
Here is a tip for the home shop guys who don't have the $ to drop on the wheels available commercially and aren't doing tons of work and just need to clean up a few pieces.
Make friends with the guys who take care of the floors where you work. The floor scrubbers and burnishers use wheels with a punch out center that is 3-3/4" in diameter. If you ask them nicely they will probably give you all of these little gems you could ever need. They come in a multitude of "grit sizes" from white which is a super fine burnishing wheel to black which is a stripping wheel. There are at least a dozen different colors in between. They are 3/4" thick and with a little work you can adapt them to fit on any arbor size you need to fit with a punch or die.
I use them for everything including scrubbing pots in the kitchen at home. They are fantastic for polishing metal in the shop but they will break down quickly but then the cost on them is nothing and they work like a charm. Got some rust you need to remove? Grab one. Paint to remove? Check. Get a mirror like polish? Grab a white one and go to town.
Like I said, you can probably get them for free or a six pack at most. The bigger the floor area, the more they will go through keeping them clean and shiny. I've gotten whole shopping bags full when the floors are being worked from stripping to polished.
That sounds like something to look into.
Great tip, thanks for sharing.
Thank you.
It’s always a learning experience watching your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Enjoy your holiday.
Thanks, you too!
Improve the performance of a wire wheel by reversing it occasionally. The wires get worn in one direction. When reversed, it has sharp, pointed wires that are very aggressive until they get worn down then its time to reverse it again. Try it and be surprised at the difference. 👍🏻. 🇺🇸😎
This is a little off topic-- but i wanted to mention that I have some sharpie pens that have lasted 7 years. Here is how I did it. When a pen starts drying up, I get a piece of 1" long surgical rubber tubing. I use the semi clear stuff. This has a about a 3/16" Id and fits the end where the pens wick (tip) sticks out. I have a piece of wood drilled with a 1/2' set of holes drilled into it, I stand up the pen in the hole, slip the tubing over the tip end, and add about 3/4' of Denatured alcohol. you can see it fill up thru the tubing. when it reaches the top - I put the pens cap on it. I stand up about 3 at a time like this, it takes about 4 hours for the d.alc to wick back into the pen. next day I observe that it is done , pull off the tubing , wipe up any residue, and recap The pen. Like I say the pens can last a long time, there is a lot of ink in them, it just prematurely dries up with all the dry stuff you mark. Another point -- These Can be used as Emergency lighting -- just light the end of the pen -- it essentially is an alcohol light. watch out it might melt down being plastic so best not to hold it.
Thank you Joe. As always, I learned several things from you. I hope you know how much you are appreciated and what a difference these videos make in the experience of everyone doing this sort of thing.
Thats very rewarding feedback. thank you
Fabulously useful! I have often been disappointed with the surface finish of things I have machined & now I have a way to make them look better. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great deburring info, Joe! Have a happy 4th of July.
As always, good stuff Joe. I use the 3m 9s fine exclusively.. usually for deburring finished machined edges. When I was an apprentice back in the late 90s, I would have to use that wheel to buff .03 radii around a 6 sided block. If I didn't get the radii to meet perfectly at the corners, or the deburred edge wasnt the same width along the entire part, I would have to start over. I use the same practice to this day.
That combination works so well. I buy the pink wheels by the dozens and always have them ready.
Good video,Joe.Excellent wheels.Thank you.Stay safe.
Thanks, you too!
Love the content you produce. Noticed that last scotchbrite you used on the right side of the buffer was held on with just a few threads since the spacer was a little too long.
Happy Independence Day from one patriot to another... Thanks for this and all your videos!... Ironically, I just this afternoon loaded up an old pedestal grinder that needs a new switch and cord from my storage building to take it to my shop. Now I know what kind of wheels to put on it! Blessings my brother!
Joe, Your content is invaluable! You teach great gems of experience .
I'm happy to pass it on.
Joe, Im certain you know that too much pressure will only make a mess on the floor. A light touch and let the wheel do work, even on heat treated parts. Excellent video as always
Extremely sharp harder steels can throw some debris before the edge breaks down. Patience is a good idea to get the best performance.
Yet another great advise from The Professor!
Thank you for the video. It taught me a lot! I’m a new welder and learning about all the different kinds of tools and what works best is awesome!
Fantastic. You are a gem, thank you for giving so much back to the community.
I appreciate that!
Love to collecting that gems. Thank you for sharing 👍
Thanks for another one Joe. I have the exact same set up and I'm really pleased not only with the finishes but how well these wheels hold up. 3M makes some very impressive products.
They sure do.
Thanks Joe for the tips on deburring, before everyone goes down to their local b&q or Home Depot, they should be looking for a beefier motor and not the budget 6” 400 watt ones, they just struggle to fight their way out of a paper bag! Never mind trying to keep things going with integrity!Usually the 8 “ bench grinders have a little more oomph, you could always look for a used Ex-industrial electric motor nearer to a 1horsepower plus the momentum of the mass of the shaft /rotor etc give good torque. Then make a custom adapter to mount on the shaft and appropriate size threaded output for the wheels etc. Most guys will know this from experience but the odd one or two might not, for the cost of a new budget grinder you can buy twice the HP motor on the likes of eBay. Like I said before,I’m not trying to teach folk how to suck eggs, but if I save one guy from ending up disappointed, then I’d be happy enough ,thanks again Joe, soon as you mentioned the 3M fibre discs I did a quick search, Christ they are dear but if the save time and money, it validates them. Take it easy Joe. Phil from the 🇬🇧
thanks for the comment Phil. For grinders that will see some pressure, I always go to my Baldor. For buffing, my little budget motor is doing OK for now.
I snagged a 10-amp 7" variable speed Ryobi angle grinder with variable speed that's quite useful. The 1800 RPM to 6000 RPM range has been super convenient. I think a water bath machine similar to a metallurgical polishing table would be killer as a vertical assembly. Like a cross between a Tormek and a surface grinder, but with sandpaper, nonwoven, and white AO wheel capabililty.
Always fun, informative video. A lot to pick up from Joe! (And I always wondered what sort of “dust” got caught on your spider’s legs. If nothing else those spiders have burr-free legs which you can’t say about spiders in general.) that reverse the flap wheel idea is a good one.
Did you get your bike back together? I only saw the front wheel in the vid. Great tip on deburring. I use the scotch brite wheels at work to debur my parts every day they are a huge time saver.
Thank You, Joe Pie. - Those are great Gem Tips!
Great video Joe. Just one question. How do these buffing wheels work with brass?
About same as aluminium.
Thank you Joe. It's amazing how quickly a beautiful part can be ruined by bad finishing.
So true.
Wonderful tips! thank you for the wonderful content. I just picked up my first horizontal bandsaw. I would live to see more content on bandsaws!
Great info as always. My guess is that the SHOP GEM is how to dress a flap wheel. Have a good 4th Joe. Thanks
First two I know about, that last one looks like it might do a good job blending in Tig welds in tubing joints.
Just don't cut through the pipe. That cut wheel will surprise you.
Happy Independence Freedom Joe. Enjoy your weekend. Have some FUN!
Wonderful video. Always interesting on your channel... thanks for sharing!
Superb Joe.. thanks for sharing 🙏
Fantastic! What would you recommend for 1/2" aluminum rod (don't want to deform it). Moving to better aluminum (6061), but right now using 6063 bubblegum. Seems challenging to easily cleanup in a production run.
loved this...just bought some 3m wheels based on this video JP
You'll like them.
One thing to add on those EXL Wheels -- They are Very Directional -- If you run them Backwards -- You can dig in and literally have a pile of gray fuzzy spaghetti all over the place. The directionality is easily determined with the hand -- Rub one way, and it is smooth, the other way (The wrong way) it has a drag effect to it. Run it toward you the way it feels smooth. They do not always have Arrows on the sides. Very Important.
I'm lucky to have not worn off the arrows yet.
Another great vid, thanks Joe.
Please may I ask that you do a video on stoning a mill table and vise please. I would like your take on this subject, and would like to know what Whetstone you use. Thanks, Rob.
Always glad to see a new Joe Pie notification in my email. Good stuff Joe. Thanks!
Dean
Thanks Dean.
Thanks for sharing this, Joe. I've been playing with making my own scotch bright polishers from sheets but I think it's time to get a couple of dedicated wheels.
The wide ones hold up for a long time, the softer pink wheels wear a lot quicker. Its a great combination. Good to hear from you Tom. I hope you and your family are well.
I use the Scotch Bright too. Medium in AO, and fine in SiC. AO for steel and SS, and SiC for aluminum and other soft metals, occasionally for plastic, but just barely touch with plastics, or there won’t be any plastic left after a second.
Thanks for the info. I bought some 1" Scotch Brite wheels, made an arbor for them and use them in a cordless Dremel I keep by my mill. They work great and saves steps to the bench grinder.
Try to keep the pink fibers from getting on the ways and into the motor housing. They accelerate machine wear.
@@joepie221 Morning Joe.
Once again Joe, you give us one of those "Duh!" moments. Thanks!!
I had an index finger opened up 3 inches by a forgotten burr. BAE it said on the drawing in bold letters no doubt ! Thanks Joe.
I discovered the scotch brite wheel years ago. I dont know how I lived without them.
The setup I have is ideal for a quick, quality finish. They are great to have around.
You definitely called it on the scotch bright wheel. I only have 1 grinder in the shop and I always keep a scotch brite wheel on one side. Deburring made easy!
These are a standard on that grinder.
Just taught this old dog another new trick THX
Thankyou Joe - a very useful video with good practical information (again based on experience!). Mal
Glad you enjoyed it
These things are surprisingly hard to find in Canada. You prety much are forced to buy online and prices vary like crazy. Thanks for the close up so I could see the model. Tenaquip sells them for $92 while Amazon wants $230. Try to get them from the US and they are $50 plus $200 in shipping.
More good stuff Joe!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Joe, picked one up!
I'm happy to know I use the exact same set up in my shop. Happy 4th!
Same to you!
HI Joe. Awesome video as always. Have you got a part number for the thin scotch-brite wheels.
Oh crap!, once those Spiders see this vid, they'll realise it's actually you, that's been pi$$ing them off with the furry stuff, I'd watch your back for a while, Joe;).
Happy 4th of July, mate.
Same to you.
Excellent tips Joe. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I guess I have to buy another grinder now.... that will be #5 in the collection
Go for it!
Thank you so much for sharing! I learned quite a bit in less than 15 minutes. Thanks brother God bless
Glad it was helpful!
What’s the RPM of your buffer? Love the flap wheel tip🙂
Sounds like 3,600rpm to me
Exactly 3453 rpm
Great tips Joe! I know what I'll be buying next for my bench grinder!
You'll be glad you did.
Great tip Joe. I can't wait to try it. Now I think I may have wasted my money on the nice Noga deburring set that I bought a couple months ago.
I bet you smile ear to ear when you try it.
They both have their place. Unless you use a Dremel, or something like it, you can’t deburr an 1/8” hole without marring the surface with one of these. I know, because sometimes I get lazy, and try it, using the corner of the wheel.
Hi Joe, as always lots of great relevant info. BTW, I think it’s time to rename your channel ‘The Spiders Layer’😳🤨🤔🤭🤣😂👍😎
Starrett branded house bricks for flap disk truing-only $79.99!
Love it. Maybe I'll sell them on my website. I actually do use a house brick. It works perfectly.
That $79.99 Starrett House Brick includes a traceability certificate and its edges are parallel to within 0.01deg. Unfortunately it doesn't come with a case, just a simple cardstock box. :-/
Just in time, I need to clean up the rear wheels on the 2" traction engine. I have tried the scotchbrite wheels with 6 leaves and they work well, but the solid version looks even better
The pink ones are great.
Looks good, Now I have to get me some of them. Happy 4th, and have some fun.
Hope you have a good 4th of July weekend. Thanks for the video.
Tip of the year: how to properly dress a flap wheel. Now excuse me while I’m gonna cry over all the flap wheels I discarded because I didn’t know how to dress them...
Right? How many have been tossed because they have that groove down the center. Dressing them is a piece of cake.
Git the brick😊
2:55 Another thing with those discs is that you can stack them to create a wider wheel
Use a hard spacer between them if you do that. Otherwise they cup and spread apart.
The flap wheel tip was cool but do you have any tips for dressing the fiber wheels? They always have grooves and large radii worn into them that make it hard to get into corners. I've even tried a carbide endmill and it wore down the endmill pretty fast without doing anything be ripping chunks out of the wheel
I use expired carbide turning inserts held by my trusty vise grip.
I cut like 8 or 10 grooves even across the wheel, then go back and forth until nice and round. I should add that you have to jam the insert in the wheel with quite a bit of force, (not really possible to do without some kind of rest on the grinder) otherwise the wheel will annihilate the remaining edge of the insert before it removes any of the wheel.
We use these to deburr everything in our shop, but most of the buffoons I work with insist on cutting as deep of grooves as possible in the wheel.
I agree with the other comment. Use a worn out insert and rake the wheel. I believe speed is your friend and use some pressure. If you try to dress the wheel, the wheel will win.
One way to dress the S/B a
Hit the wrong button. One way to dress a S/B wl is to get a piece of anti slip tape (local hardware store) and stick it to a flat piece of wood. Then lightly run the abrasive against the S/B wl. The more aggressive the anti slip tape is the faster the wl gets dressed.
A lot of these wheels seem to have weird mounting requirements. For example, that loose scotch-brite wheel need some sort of a flange to support it, as well as the convolute wheels, which in the 8-in size all seem to have a 3-in diameter hole.
Specific recommendations, including mounting hardware, for an 8-in bench grinder would be greatly appreciated.
There are flanges by 3M that reduce the 3" hole down to whatever arbor size you have. I am currently using Jet 1hp buffer that have the 5/8" arbor. If that is what you have search for "3M Brand Tapered Flange 356" for the 3" to 5/8" arbor reduction. Check at trugrit DOT com. I know 3M makes other 3" hole flanges that reduce to other size arbors. Again check at trugrit DOT com , look under "Buff-etch-sharpen" . I think Jantz knifemaking has them as well.
Any tips on balancing a grinder? Yours seems to run like silk, mine has an annoying vibration I can't get rid of. Thanks.
Hard to argue with those results!
For a knife maker, I would think its a must have.
How about vibratory bowls? They seem much less labor intensive, but I have yet to use one.
Nice tips. Thanks Joe. Happy 4th.
Same to you!
Thanks Joe! good info that I'm going to heed
Happy Independence Day man, good vid!
Thanks! You too!
I would like to browse a 3M master catalog although I suspect you would need a hand truck to move it around. Lol
Thanks for the video Joe.
I am lucky to have a supplier within driving distance. Or MSC can help out.
@@joepie221 Joe, where in Austin do you find these?
www.rshughes.com They are a good crew. the place is tough to find the first time, but they have a good inventory.
But do they get rid of hangnails?
Great vid once again
They will get rid of the entire nail if you're not careful.
@@joepie221 yup.. I've had a few experiences.. along with wire wheels grabbing stuff and throwing it across the shop... Goes a long well with those brain fart moments where you go over some bare skin with the oxy acetylene torch.. you stop having brain farts after that
Another great tip. I did not know then EXL deburring wheels but read on the 3M site that these work best on sharp corners and burrs - something where most other wheels will break up fast.
But the tip for straightening flap wheels is great. I have to run to our trash bin to get some old flap wheels out right now 👍
very good video..thanks for your time
Hi Joe I’ve been looking for a buffer/deburrer and Baldor comes into my mind , what horsepower should I chose to start with . 1/2 , 3/4 , 1 hp ? I know they are very pricey, but they got very good quality to them . Thanks Mike
If you didn't get a answer yet, after my research during my buying I found most people like the 3/4 hp 1800 rpm buffers
Link to what you are using?????
do you recommend using a respirator when working with these?
I would.
You can hear in the video that he doesnt use one. Once you get used to the wheels you can just hold your breath, deburr and walk away without breathing anything in
Actually for a single piece, I do take a deep breath and hold it while I work. For aluminum or multiple parts, I have a mask hanging right alongside the machine. Once direct sunlight shines on the work area, it looks like a snow globe with all the material in the air. A mask is a very good idea.
I’ve looked all over for the 3M CP-7AM cut wheel/disc you have on the video and cannot find it. Could you or someone give me a site or maybe a part number for that wheel?
Hi Joe, love your content! Do find it hard to hear your voice though. Could it be the mic?
Could be you don't have your volume turned up on your video settings.
Dale in Canada
Recently, I've been using wheels from Benchmark Abrasives. BM-SPW45AO_1 has been my go-to disc (leaves a lovely finish that's better than 320 grit sandpaper). Now that you point out R.S. Hughes, it's time to go shopping, since they have a mega selection.
They are my 'Go To'. Local too.
Awesome tip
GREAT VIDEO, THANK YOU
Where do you buy the thick Scotch-Brite wheel ? McMasters??
I buy them locally from R.S.Hughes in Austin. Go online.
Good stuff Joe. I'm typically use a Kalamazoo 1 inch belt sander like this to do the majority of my deburing. But have a scotch bright wheel on a buffer if I need a finer finish. Don't really use the spongy wheels except for flat ones on a angle die grinder. My buffer has a SS wire wheel on the other side for cleaning and deburing threads. Wire wheels don't do too bad for deburing edges and cleaning welds. I not an expert but have been work with metal on and off for almost 60 years.
www.travers.com/1-x-42-sander/p/87-135-001/
I love wire wheels for threads and knurls. They do good for thick rust removal too.
Could you please give us the name of those 3M wheels again. I for one would like to try them.
Not trying to step on anyones feet,but I believe this is what he used.www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N7LOO?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1
@@nasty509ss Wow, $70 per wheel seems pretty pricy
Time is money. These wheels are well worth the investment.
The stills at the end of the video show the name and brand.
@nasty509ss Yep. good choice. if your budget is limited, get a medium grit.
What about Scotchbrite belts? Have you ever used them?
Not yet.
thanks Joe - 👍😎👍
You bet
WHAT DOES "S" STAND FOR? IN THE GRADE SECTION?
The only had thing about those 3M convolute wheels is they are hella expensive....usually $70+ from what I've found....I've got some I bought off Amazon that are 6" wheels, clearly Chinese, they were $12 each, but they don't last near as long as the 3M ones we have at the shop....
They are, but once you see how long they last, you'll forget about how much you paid.
Thus wheel only used in corner edges applications, can i use this wheel for steel pipe deburring applications
Get the correct grade and expect it to wear quicker than if used on aluminum, but yes.
Cordless right angle die grinder and an SJ6 single cut bur. These old guys dont know they exist.
Ty Sir 👍
Use wheel specific for non ferrous so you don’t get steel contamination that will rust your stainless
I do that with my blast cabinet media.
The grinder with the 3M buffing wheel is the most used machine in the shop.
I would agree.
thanks Joe -
I always thought they was stone grinding wheels i better get one lol
A rest or leather gloves may be order as I assume those wheels do not differentiate between metal and flesh.
Let’s just say the burn is petty painful when your knuckle brushes one of those 3M Scotch bright wheels and leave it at that.
I personally never wear gloves around anything that spins, I'd rather a little burn than get caught and pulled into the machine. Just my opinion, not a recommendation
@@russcole5685 Agreed, no gloves (I use these daily at work, often for rather small parts).
I use welding gauntlets, so the ‘loose’ but is higher up the arm.
@@sharg0 myself aswell, have had a finger caught and torn up in a 5" grinder with a meat axe blade, only the once, and only because I was wearing a glove, caught it and pulled my hand in, if I wasnt wearing gloves, all it would have done was nic my finger tip. Very hard arguement to win with OHSA but experience and lateral thinking are rules, not a paper pushing desk sitter. Lol. I'm in New Zealand, so unsure of rules in other countries, but here, over the last thirty years, things have gotten a little stupid. Removing the thinker from the job, robot do this, this way. Lol
Nice.
See the motor's still out of that Honda.
It will be for a while. I guess I'll have to suffer through the down time on my 1800cc VTX.
@@joepie221 😂suffer
I just consumed a brand new high quality file only by rounding of the edges on 2 pcs. Ø 200 mm t=3 mm stainless 316 that had been water cut. That steel is a real bitch to grind and polish.
Sometimes the garnet from the waterjet process is in the edges that got cut. Its very abrasive.