Propane Generator Fails You Keep Making!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มี.ค. 2024
- I hope this generator video helps you out. Propane can sometimes be tricky but these tips should make your generator experience better…😀👍🏼#generator #fails #rv
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I hope this generator video helps you out. Propane can sometimes be tricky but these tips should make your generator experience better…😀👍🏼#generator #fails #rv
Check out my favorite and best selling Dual fuel generators.
Portable units……
Champion 4500DF:amzn.to/49T7Jr6
Best Price…Wen 4500DF: amzn.to/3SUheiR
Pulsar DF 4000: amzn.to/434SXez
Maxpeedingrods Bluetooth: TBA
Champion 2500 DF: amzn.to/49yEjyw
Home Back up……..dual/tri fuel
DuroMax 13000: amzn.to/3SXBxMr
Duromax16000 The beast! :amzn.to/3TgbUri
Genmax 10500 tri fuel: amzn.to/3Ti4kwg
BEST PRICED!!……
Pulsar 10500 Tri fuel:amzn.to/3TdSKT4
Pulsar 9500 tri fuel: amzn.to/430aIeQ
Champion 10000 tri fuel: amzn.to/4bSyzkS
Have a question you want answered fast: asqme.com/@johnnysweekends
CHECK OUT MY AMAZON STORE: www.amazon.com/shop/johnnysweekends
CHEAP USED CERTIFIED SOLAR PANELS HERE: www.santansolar.com/?ref=Johnnys%20Weekends
SAVE BIG ON NEW SOLAR PANELS HERE: signaturesolar.com/?ref=JWKNDS
If you feel I helped you out..Consider Buying me a Coffee 👍🏼🙌🏼👊🏼😀
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Finally, a video that clearly explains the propane vs gas carburetor jetting.
😀👍🏼👊🏼
Best generator video online. Great job sir. Thank you
Thank you 😊
Thank you for reminding me to narrow the plug gap a little to run better on propane.
This is a great tip!
Great video! I converted my little Honda to propane best thing ever! Haven’t run gas in it since! Great info!
😀👍🏼
I put two propane tanks in parallel to avoid the high-flow issues, and provide better cold weather performance. You can also warm your propane tanks with the generator exhaust gases for very low-temp performance.
I finally started my 3 year old Predator 2000. Watched a lot of your generator videos so I didn’t have to “read the manual”. Oh- it ran great! 🤠👍🇺🇸
Finally 😂👍🏼👊🏼
Yes, very well presented, and some great advice! 😎
I have two (2) 2500-watt dual fuel Champions and a combiner box to tie them together (if needed), because a smaller engine requires less fuel. I estimate they are both de-rated to about 1600 -watts each, based on my altitude and the propane fuel. Their primary purpose is to recharge my LifePo4 solar battery bank and/or recharge my EcoFlow Delta solar system. I've never run them on gasoline. I have hoses, regulators, and quick connections for 20lb. (BBQ-style) tanks and my 250-gallon bulk propane tank. I estimate that I can power up my critical electric needs for almost a year (with or without solar). 🤠 Great video ~ Thanks! 😊
Wow sounds like a great setup 👍🏼👊🏼
Loads of useful info....Most of which I didn't know!!! Thanks!!!
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Great Information, thank you.
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Thanks for this Johnny. Looking forward to the bluetooth generator review.
You’re welcome 😀👍🏼
I learned a lot. Thank you!!
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Great video and information.. I had no idea about this stuff.... now I do and I won't forget it....
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Really useful information. Thanks!
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What I am finding with my Pulsar propane generator and propane in general to help add to all that is in here:
1. OPD valve - The stated definition I am finding focuses more on not overfilling the tank. As the primary storage mechanism of propane is a pressurized refrigerant liquid state, it needs room to boil without liquid propane ending up getting into the inlet on the tank, even if the tank is not on perfectly level ground. Plus apparently the liquid expands and contracts with temperature. So the general rule is no more than 80% of the tank has liquid propane and the other 20% is gaseous propane. If you are placing a horizontal tank on the ground and it is not level, always make sure to have the valve higher up, never at the bottom of the incline.
A secondary stated feature of the OPD valve is a safety mechanism to prevent propane from escaping when nothing is attached to the tank. When I go to fill up my propane tanks, the refueling station sometimes leaves the valve wide open when they put it back in my car, but no propane comes out. This is because when you connect a line to the tank, the tip of the line pushes in a valve that lets the propane out. Because of this feature, I have to wonder if people are screwing in the line with a regulator quickly with the main valve open and this quickly opens the safety valve and propane gushes in and causes the regulator to choke on what is suddenly rushing in, blocking the line. I have never had a regulator shut off like this, so I am just working up a slightly alternate thought on how this could happen.
A pressure relief valve is important in case the tank ever gets too hot. As propane is a natural refrigerant, how that works is like water and steam where the phase change to gas causes the refrigerant to expand greatly and cool greatly, except it needs a higher pressure at room temperature to stay in a liquid state. So as the tank gets colder, propane condenses into a liquid more and the pressure in the tank goes down. The liquid level doesn't change much as the liquid state is over 100x more dense than the gaseous state at ambient room temperature. When the tank is hot, some more propane will become a gas in the tank and the tank pressure will increase. While this works at a logarithmic scale, some numbers to wrap your head around is at 0 F, tank pressure should be 25 psig. At 75 F, tank pressure should be at 110 psig. At 120 F, tank pressure should be at 225 psig. At 140 F, the tank should be over 300 psig and venting propane. The thing is when the propane vents, it boils in the tank, cooling it down. If the relief valve is not enough to say overcome a fire, I have seen on the news at least when wind swept firestorms rip through town those 500 gallon propane tanks having a flame shooting out of them from venting while engulfed in flames and burning material around it and then the tank explodes because it can't vent fast enough to keep the tank temperature and thus pressure down. But this is also a reason why you don't want to store the tank in direct sunlight on a hot day and especially don't want to leave in your car with the windows rolled up on a hot. (There is a reason why tanks are painted a bright white, not jet black.) The tank goes above 140 F, it starts venting to cool off by having the propane refrigerant inside boil off, and especially in a closed up car, one spark and BOOM!
2. I like the tank size you have in the video. 30 lbs seems to be what you need to last all day under load for your home or say several days with running for a couple hours at a time at a national park when working with a small portable generator. Go over 40 lbs and you no longer come across OPD valves as they are only required for 40 lbs and under, but instead less safe POL valves that tend to have none of the safety features of OPD valves; just you open the POL valve and propane comes out. I like to put my 30 lbs tanks in base stabilizers when otherwise freestanding so they can't be knocked over too easily. Kids, pets, wild animals, and major earthquakes all seem kind of risky in terms of a tank getting knocked over and I just want to minimize that risk. Also with the local refueling station tending to leave the valve open on the smaller OPD valve tanks and then stuffing it in your vehicle that way, I am a bit leery about bringing a large tank with a POL valve to them to fill up. Especially considering some of the Yelp reviews I found of the place where people are complaining that propane is just spewing out of their tanks as they drive around after going to that refueling station.
3. For my generator at least to feed in the propane, first I need to unscrew a bit from the generator to purge the line. I have found having your gas sniffer out is handy for this as once the propane gas reaches the ground in front of the generator, causing the gas sniffer alarm to go off, at least if it is not windy out, the air is sufficiently purged from the line. The second thing is to do a single pull while the generator is on choke. I am finding with my generator this seems to pull the residual air out of the internal regulator and pull propane in. After a single pull on choke, I switch it into run mode and it just starts up. So two pulls, but this method seems to be reliable in getting the generator started every time. If I don't first choke with my generator, I find myself pulling and pulling trying to get it started and then give it a single pull on choke. So I don't even know how many licks it takes to get to the center of a tootsie pop. Granted there is nothing else wrong with the generator like leaving in the cheap Chinese plug that came with the generator, so far it seems to always start with this two pull strategy.
Awesome video well done 🇨🇦🛠️🇨🇦🛠️
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This is a lovely, informative, articulate, intelligent, intellectual adaptation of knowledge. All of which I did not personally know. This was a wealth of information. It makes so much sense. Thank you thank you thank you. And… Thank you.
Nice heads up tip on the, Torch, spark plugs. Hmmm? NGK, can't go wrong with those. They made my Honda motorcycle go for years. It's what we call, Reliable. Yeah doggy! Yee ha!
Actually I'm Jewish originally from Detroit. And it's all about motors.
RemyRAD
Thank you 😀👍🏼
Have you had any experience with an iPower SUA3800ied generator. It's about the only model that I could find that ran on propane with remote start. We are off grid and have a large house storage tank with an external propane BBQ outlet. The first unit was a disastrous failure. Strike one was a defective spark plug with an integral cracked resistor that caused it to misfire and backfire. The solution was a NGK replacement. Strike two was the electric propane shutoff valve that was only intermittent rated, ran very hot, fused the windings together and blew a fuse on the control module. Strike three was a gasoline leak that spilled gasoline on the ground. It was returned for a replacement. Armed with this knowledge, the spark plug was replaced at the very beginning. I came up with a engineered in line module that had a fast coil "PICK" and lowered "HOLD" current. While at it, I also added an arc suppression network to prevent damage to the control relay contacts. The valve coil had a strong inductive kick when turned off. This seemed to work quite well into the late fall. Then the valve started to fail. An examination revealed that the control relay contact had become quite resistive. There is a pair of relays, one for the gasoline valve on the carburetor bowl and one for the propane valve. The gasoline valve doesn't draw much current but the propane valve is huge in comparison with a much greater current draw. The relay rating seems to be highly under rated even with my current limiting device installed. The valve specs say that all the other valves from the factory for other voltages is only 2 watts. The DC ohmage on this 12 volt DC coil is 6 ohms. That works out to be 24 watts. No wonder that it gets hot. It draws 2 amperes on that poor small relay. So for the remainder of the winter it ran well for 1700 hours on gasoline even in very cold weather. I may need to engineer a new in line module that takes electrical power directly from 12 volts and only use the control relay as an activation signal. Even replacement valves have the same 6 ohm coil resistance. Do you know if iPower had any re-calls or parts replacements to fix this engineering problem?
Unfortunately not familiar with that model. But I really like the new when 4500 duel fuel remote start…which is this one here…amzn.to/4c0yz29
Great video. Have you had any experience with conversion kits such as with Hutch Mountain?
Yes used on my eu3000is and also the Ecoflow smart generator and another regular home back up unit.
They work good.
I don’t need it now but they work.
Of the various 4000/4500 watt dual fuel generators you used and tested, do you have a favorite?
I have an EU2200i that I'm about to put up for sale and replace for something a bit bigger because sometimes the Honda struggles to start my A/C unit on my RV.
I’ve heard the using iridium spark plugs are the way to go for propane generators. They last longer.
Maybe for a true propane generator but for a lawn mower engine that is still low compression I dont think a plug that’s over double the price will provide much if any improvement.
got a petrol gen a few months ago, needed it there and then, got it, then found one off these types, this type is the one I should of got, as I live in me Tramper Van alot, , never mind,
Like your videos, good info on the generators you test. I am interested in the carburetor you are showing. What is the part number or where did you get it? Thanks
The carb is off a genmax 7250.
Good sound advice....If I see another TH-cam video of a guy doing 40-50 pulls to get his propane gen started!!!!😮😮😮😮😮😢😢😢😢
Yea I dont get that lol 👍🏼
would you replace your sparks plug with Iridium?
No it’s not a car with digital ignition packs. It’s a lawn mower engine
Hi Johnny. Why don't more companies make portable Propane-ONLY generators (with 2000-10,000 running watts) for people who will not be using gasoline? A propane-ONLY generator will eliminate the gas tank and make the unit weigh much less. ALP has a smaller 850 running watt model and Ryobi has a 6300 running watt model. Do you know of any other companies or have any opinions on Propane-ONLY generators? Thanks ahead of time :)
I don’t know but it would be nice because an actual propane generator would perform better than a dual fuel unit as it’s built a little different for propane only.
Would be nice to see!
Thanks for your very quick reply Johnny. Will you please let me know how a propane-ONLY generator would perform better than dual fuel. ALP company is doing tests on their planned higher wattage propane-ONLY generator which will hopefully come out soon.
@greggfur9626 they are built a little diff. More compression and hardened valves so you get full power from the propane only model, and they will last longer than a dual fuel.
Would love to see Alp make a larger unit
Thanks for your expertise Johnny. Yes, I've been waiting a while for ALP's higher wattage generator which is slated to be about 1900-2000 running watts, electric start.
The gas cap on my Champion Dual Fuel Inverter has an On/Off position. Does this only apply when running on gas? The manual is not clear. Thanks!
Only used when using gasoline.
It's a cap vent. Must be in on or open position when using the Genny.
@SuperCyril2 only if running on gasoline.
Does running mainly on propane cause problems with the generator carburetor or other parts that need lubrication from gasoline?
Thank you
I doubt it. Farm and Ranch and Vets have run propane Vehicles for many years
It does nothing to the carburetor and propane actually has plenty of lubricants for lubrication. So over all it’s lasts almost as long as a gas generator.
@@johnnysweekends
Thank you. I bought a Champion 4650 dual fuel and would like to run primarily on propane.
Very good tips. Thank you Sir!
Request: on the upcoming GT video, please confirm if multiple phones can be paired simultaneously or if there can only be one master device at a time
Just finished making that video so caught this in time.
No you can not have two devices monitoring at the same time. One gets locked out. My iPad and phone where connected but one will say no device and then you go to the home page
The regulator that I got with my dual fuel Maxpeedingrods 3200S has a button on it which acts kind of like a choke, and is meant to clear the air out of the hose. I’ve also read that you shouldn’t open the propane valve all the way, but only about one turn on the valve is enough…????
The button is a prime button to prime the hose of air and fill it with propane.
And yes valve should be open all the way. Not sure why one turn or where you found that.
But open it slow or it can activate a safety flow valve and restrict flow.
@@johnnysweekends Thanks (as usual) for your info. I read about only opening the propane valve for one turn on the internet, but frankly, I trust your info more than some random website. I do have another question: my Maxpeedingrods generator has remote control so you can turn it off or on from your house. But surely you wouldn’t want to turn it off if the propane tank valve was still open?? What is the purpose of the remote control???
@Inisfad you can leave the propane tank on if you plan to use it frequently say every 6-12 hours but if less its best to close it. But if using gas you just use the remote when you need but the battery will drain in about 24 hrs if you dont use it if I remember.
@@johnnysweekends Thank you. Just saw one of your videos with a link to your ‘ask me anything’ page. Will use that from now no. You’re really helpful! Greatly appreciated.
Why is my propane generator not working?
You need to look up what an opd valve is and what that valve is you showed at the beginning of the video. I believe you called that an excess flow valve. That is actually in the tank. The valve that you showed is designed to only let fuel flow one way. Opd has a float on the valve in the propane tank that stops all flow of propane when filling the tank so it can't be filled beyond 80% . The part you talked about in the video has always been on propane tanks and is called a pressure relief valve.
Excess flow valves are not on the tank its in the supply line. OPD is the tank valves and acts as over pressure as well. Over fill and over pressure.
You're incorrect. Excess flow is on all propane tanks. Opd is a float that's inside the tank that stops the flow when the tank is 80% full. If you turn the valve on with that regulator attached and open the valve without the hose connected to the generator, it will absolutely not trigger any excess flow valve.
I do enjoy your videos, but you're off on this information.
So yea the tank has the OPD with the float for over fill. And has excess pressure relief in case heat and expansion to let pressure out but the supply lines also have a small calibrated spring and ball in the nipple now to stop flow from what I have read. So the tank and valve also have an excess flow valves as well? I did a bunch of reading but just didn’t see that. I thought it was on there to but I couldn’t confirm but saw them in newer supply lines due to the line becoming compromised.
But I don’t mind going back and looking again. I don’t know everything that’s for sure 😂👍🏼
Thanks for the clarification, I’ll go back and read so more 😀👍🏼
@johnnysweekends I've actually used those connectors to reverse flow to fill grill tanks. I had to drill that contraption out to get propane to flow backwards through it. They like to keep us all in the dark on this propane equipment.
The automatic choke still moves regardless of whether propane or gas is selected. Take the cover off and watch the choke move when propane is selected. The choke closes in propane mode to prime the demand regulator (vacuum is needed to operate the demand regulator which allow propane to flow, choke increases the vacuum). Choke isn't needed if you have regulator with a prime button, but no generator that I know of includes that type of regulator. Generally, it's easily to start the generator on gas then move the switch to propane as there is already vacuum to the demand regulator to allow propane to flow. Vacuum is needed to allow propane to flow from the regulator, it doesn't matter that the propane tank is pressurized, the regulator wont let it flow without vacuum (SAFETY).
On an electric start the stepper motor will move the choke due to programming. The choke is not needed on manual choke generators and most any other that is dual fuel. There is plenty of vacuum with out it and the load regulator will open easily.
Hence in most manuals it says .”put in run position” not choke.