The one biggest negative to installing a smaller pully on the alternator is that it will make the alternator wear out more quickly from the higher internal rpms inside the alternator and putting out more power.
Also this is great if you keep the engine RPM's below 4000 in most driving. But spin the engine up at 5000 to 6000 RPM's like towing a trailer up the Continental Divide and you may toast the alternator.
My 2012 SRT Challenger has been on a battery tender since new which is almost continuously since it only has 10,000 miles in almost 13 years. It is the original battery and starts the car like it is day 1. My 3 motorcycles have their own maintainers and they too have old and reliable batteries. The garage is heated so winters have no effect.
Good info! This also suggests something else... Besides being obnoxious, cars that turn themselves off at stoplights & stop signs, then restart themselves when you press the go pedal are going to wear out starters AND kill batteries a whole lot faster! A friend was driving for LYFT, using one of their lease cars. Driving around town in a lot of atip and go treaffic, he HATED that auto-off feature and tried to disable it. But it was designed so it couldn't be easily disabled. Some other functions (I forget which) were also disabled, along with the auto-off. He was happy to be rid of that car! On the other hand, it should be good for mechanics and parts stores.... selling and installing more batteries and starters!
Done some 24v alternating/inverter stuff, if the alternator runs 800rpm more on idle speed, try to do the math when the engine are running 4000rpm. The ratio are changed from aprox 2,5 to 3,5, so at 4000 rpm the alternator runs at 14000 rpm. Dont think the alternator will last for long.
@@Akadectra At higher RPM, the regulator passes less current to the rotor (from Faraday's Law: Alternator output volts = RPM x [Rate of change of Flux]. ie. Less magnetic flux is required at higher RPM). This should allow the regulator, and rotor, to run cooler. Extra mechanical wear, though, may well be an issue.
I work for the Post Office (USPS) and yes, "put vehicle in "park',curb your wheels,set the parking brake and shut the truck off." Drilled into our heads from day one. We also have to have ALL windows secured no matter the temperature.
I worked in the Arctic in an oil field for years and the first thing the mechanics would do on a new truck is to put a smaller pulley on the alternator. These vehicles were idled for hours most days with the heater and lights on.
Ulterior motives for altering the alternator with a smaller pulley..., alternation without altercations...Genius!!! I'm amped up! This video got me charged!!!
You wouldn't happen to have a part # I could use for that Pully ? I've been looking through a bunch of places and they all have different outer diameters but the main one there showing different for the shaft size, I have a 19 Suburban and was going to do dual batteries and LIKE this idea ! Your one of the "BEST" !!!
Overdrive pulley are nice but the bad thing is when you overrun the alternator, especially the AD244, it will cause it to break the copper wire that runs to the internal coil, the centrifugal force will snaps it right off. I've seen it countless times. So if your customers have a lead foot that AD244 alternator will not last very long before the customer needs a new one. I am a retired high-end car audio specialist. PS. Ray put a disclaimer on the invoice that you're not responsible for any alternator damage caused by the overdrive pulley that you installed at customers request.
Just curious. If the smaller pulley on the alternator is such a good thing, why doesn't the auto manufacturer use the smaller pulley? Does it affect the life of the alternator? Are power cables properly sized for the additional current?
My advice - you should straight away, go and swap the larger pulley of the two alternators on your "dirtymax" to equal the smaller one for more power output to your charging capacity.
Thanks for this proof-of-concept video Ray. Two queries requiring your enlightenment, if you will: (1) does the smaller/faster-spinning pulley have any significant impact on alternator longevity? And (2) does the automatic engine stop/start "feature" on newer vehicles which occurs whenever the vehicle comes to a complete stop (which I find annoying as hell) actually shorten the life of the starter, battery, and/or alternator? Congrats on attaining 500,000+ subscribers on your main channel and 100,000+ on your secondary channel, you deserve it.
The auto stop/start is more annoying than hell, I have a European car with it, but fortunately the inhibit button needs only the index finger extension when going from P to D with the central selector (VW DSG). If I remember that is. . . . . . . . . It scares me fartless when the engine stops at a junction and then I curse myself of course. IIRC in recent tests the saving of fuel and pollution is around the limits of measurement accuracy.
@@572BtriodeYou're fortunate to have an override button to defeat the system prior to start-up. Many manufacturers no longer provide such convenient functionality on the dash or center console, so some owners have to purchase an aftermarket plug-in override component (which may or may not set a trouble code) or come up with other inconvenient/impractical workarounds. Example: I understand that on certain Toyotas, if you first open the hood (bonnet) and then start the engine, the stop/start function will be defeated because the system interprets that as the vehicle being serviced or under repair -- but the system resets itself once the hood is closed and the engine turned off (the sensor is part of the hood latch mechanism). 🙄
@@craigcraigster4999 Yep, fortunate to have the button, which will turn the system on or off at any time, even while driving, it defaults to on, of course, at every start. However, I live in rural France and have commonly driven for an hour to find the engine stops when stopping to open my gate, it is a very quiet place here. Just why these systems are foisted on us is annoying, they're of dubious benefit and often promoted by people who don't actually have all the facts.
Again nice video for all of us with a 06 Chevy 4.8 have an alternator that runs too slow you're not helping anybody if you don't give the dimensions or where to get it or who makes it. What diameter is it is it a 43 mm or 42 mm of 46 because I believe the stock one is 50 something or 60 millimeter
I keep hearing from Trans Am/ Camaro owners to put a truck alt on LS1’s. I have so many upgrades (LED lights, amp, fuzz buster, dashcam,etc) when I start driving my alt meter starts at 14 volts but after driving awhile it drops to 12.8.
So once that belt stretches just a little the tensioner travel reaches max travel causing belt slip/squeal. Just put a shorter belt on and be done with it.🤷♂️
With 10 or 20% reduced tension now being applied and with prior belt stretching from the larger factory pulley in place I would have recommended a new and fresh serpentine belt. Why not?
A more correct way of determining the performance at idle is to measure the output voltage. Alternators are a constant voltage source of about 14V - assuming that they are spinning fast enough. So, what was the output voltage, with everything switched on, for both pulleys at idle?
The pulley change does not make the alternator itself to produce more current, the alternator will produce a much higher voltage which will make the battery to draw more current. With a 40% higher alternator speed one can expect the voltage to be around 18V and that battery will get a shortened lifetime.
@@L_O_M Sorry to disagree, but the regulator will cut in and stop the output voltage exceeding ~14V. That is its purpose. Otherwise output voltage with full rotor current can easily exceed 100V. Car alternators are a constant voltage source - because of the regulator. I built my own alternator regulator when the regulator failed on one car I had. It worked fine, keeping the voltage constant at ~14V (typically 13.8V-14.2V) regardless of load and RPM. The smaller pulley here, simply makes it regulate at ~14V at a lower engine RPM.
The alternator will run out of amps sooner. They fill the alternator's amp tank up at the factory, and one day when it's empty you have to buy a new alternator.
As silly as those systems are (yes I always shut it off) they are quite smart... They don't shut the engine off if battery charge is low or battery health is low, and they use AGM batteries which can charge a lot faster, so the car will charge the battery rapidly during off throttle deceleration periods and braking, rather than constantly maintaining x voltage no matter what and letting the battery take in whatever charge current that voltage lets it accept. There is a lot of change, even though the batteries and alternator all appear the same... Computers are now in charge.
Yes 1 gallon a year for you, 1 gallon for your neighbor - adds to millions cars and here we go millions gallons saved. Less pollution and that is why they do it, they have to comply with emissions regulations. Secondly you have to buy extra starter, extra battery, well they ewill gladly sell it to you.
Amperage is the amount of power the car systems are drawing. To prove that. Simply shut the lights and AC off and the amp draw from the car systems will be less.
Nice video but you did not give us a comparison or size difference how big is a stock one and what's the diameter of the aftermarket is and who makes it or where to get it
I swear if you call that Pully a gear one more time I'll chuckle one more time! Another forced Wife unit appearance!! The Force is strong with this one!!!🤣🤣🤣
Thought that was a cold air duct... Pros and cons in what you are doing. Better choice is a new low speed high out put alternator. If you really want to know what is going on with your dc circuit have two amp gauges showing the the draw and the output..
Hey Ray👏!!! Hope you and the family are doing well. I’m surprised you didn’t talk your customer into doing an intake from Banks Performance? You did give them more electrons😁👍
Since most batteries are no longer pro rated and only have a 3 year warranty you’d be better off replacing the battery after the warranty runs out or every 3-5 years. Of course it depends on the type of driving one does.
Any concerns of over revving the alternator with high engine RPM's? Just guessing, but it seems if the engine idle is 500 RPM and the nador was spinning at 2800 that would make 6000 RPM spin the nador at around 37,000? Just rambling a bit here...
If you are spinning bearings at a higher speed continuously, it stands to reason that their service life will be shortened. That kind of thing always comes down to: Will you keep the vehicle long enough for that shortened lifespan to occur while you still are using the vehicle?
How do the newer vehicles with the stop/start crap deal with this regarding the battery, charging system & starter? Seems like that would be hard on an engine and everything else over time.
great job very interesting just a slight change in pulley , makes a big difference in power to the battery(🪫 s) and longevity for the batteries. nice to show you can change the things for the better.
So with auto stop/start, does that effect the alternator? Or did the engineers compensate for that? Also, have you seen or heard of any engine problems since the addition of such feature? Thx Ray.
If you are spinning bearings at a higher speed continuously, it stands to reason that their service life will be shortened. That kind of thing always comes down to: Will you keep the vehicle long enough for that shortened lifespan to occur while you still are using the vehicle?
Stupid question: Does it can damage the alternator / batteries if we use the small pulley and use the car / truck on highway (high rpm) for a long time ?
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.15 (1/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TLBjiHvkKtE/mqdefault.jpg)
Parts manufacturer's claims are one thing, but real world data is what we need. Thank you, Ray, (and Lauren), for providing that data.
Interesting point. I wonder if aftermarket "High Output" alternators are just standard alternators with smaller pulleys on them?
@@RANDOMNATION907They'd be designed for the higher output, though. It wouldn't just be a basic alternator with a small pulley.
The one biggest negative to installing a smaller pully on the alternator is that it will make the alternator wear out more quickly from the higher internal rpms inside the alternator and putting out more power.
Also this is great if you keep the engine RPM's below 4000 in most driving. But spin the engine up at 5000 to 6000 RPM's like towing a trailer up the Continental Divide and you may toast the alternator.
Yep. The bearings will experience more wear. But the alternator bearings should still last a good long while.
@@billmilosz not to mention the electronics, and the electronic components regulating the voltage will get hotter thus damaging the alternator sooner
I've found out in my short 70 yrs of life I've doubled and tripled my vehicles battery life by keeping them on battery tenders while at home.
Great idea kid
Use a solar maintainer.
Low charge is the hardest thing on lead acid batteries, especially in cars that sit and don't get driven daily.
@@volvo09Especially in colder climates. Mk I S80 has a tiny battery, I try to keep it happy by taking in on mini trips every few weeks.
My 2012 SRT Challenger has been on a battery tender since new which is almost continuously since it only has 10,000 miles in almost 13 years. It is the original battery and starts the car like it is day 1. My 3 motorcycles have their own maintainers and they too have old and reliable batteries. The garage is heated so winters have no effect.
Good info!
This also suggests something else... Besides being obnoxious, cars that turn themselves off at stoplights & stop signs, then restart themselves when you press the go pedal are going to wear out starters AND kill batteries a whole lot faster! A friend was driving for LYFT, using one of their lease cars. Driving around town in a lot of atip and go treaffic, he HATED that auto-off feature and tried to disable it. But it was designed so it couldn't be easily disabled. Some other functions (I forget which) were also disabled, along with the auto-off. He was happy to be rid of that car!
On the other hand, it should be good for mechanics and parts stores.... selling and installing more batteries and starters!
They came up with that tech in the nineties but decided folks wouldn't like it.
Done some 24v alternating/inverter stuff, if the alternator runs 800rpm more on idle speed, try to do the math when the engine are running 4000rpm.
The ratio are changed from aprox 2,5 to 3,5, so at 4000 rpm the alternator runs at 14000 rpm. Dont think the alternator will last for long.
Exactly. Bearing wear and overheating will increase. Regulator failure will occur.
@@AkadectraI never thought about the potential impact on the regulator-- thanks! 👍
@@Akadectra At higher RPM, the regulator passes less current to the rotor (from Faraday's Law: Alternator output volts = RPM x [Rate of change of Flux]. ie. Less magnetic flux is required at higher RPM). This should allow the regulator, and rotor, to run cooler. Extra mechanical wear, though, may well be an issue.
My power output keeps dropping and I keep needing longer belts.
🤣🤣🤣
Now that's a good one 🥇
It's the way of all flesh...
How's your pulley? 😉😉
Same here LOL
@@billmilosz that's kinda personal, don'tcha think?😀
i have *never* seen a delivery driver switch off their engine at each stop, unless its a multi-hour stop. always nice to see Lauren's cameos.
Aren't UPS drivers required to do that per company policy?
I work for the Post Office (USPS) and yes, "put vehicle in "park',curb your wheels,set the parking brake and shut the truck off." Drilled into our heads from day one. We also have to have ALL windows secured no matter the temperature.
As a delivery driver I don't turn mine off except at the warehouse to load or the grocery store to shop
These days, if you want to KEEP your vehicle, you either shut it off, or lock the doors while it's running with a second remote.....
I worked in the Arctic in an oil field for years and the first thing the mechanics would do on a new truck is to put a smaller pulley on the alternator. These vehicles were idled for hours most days with the heater and lights on.
Enjoy the video, good information. Congratulations on 100k Ray. Onwards and upwards
Amazing what a pulley can do
The one time smaller is actually better! Great video Ray!
Happy Sunday Ray. Congratulations for 100k.
Congrats on 100k Rainman Ray 🎉
Gee, so much reeee. Surely Ray knows what he is doing.
Congratulations on 100k.👏
Gratz on the 100k on this channel
Wow, never thought about that before.
Ulterior motives for altering the alternator with a smaller pulley..., alternation without altercations...Genius!!! I'm amped up! This video got me charged!!!
I see what you did there 🤣
And currently wired in as well
@@RainmanRayOffDutyThis video sure sparked my interest. 😁
@@RainmanRayOffDuty AC what you did there 😎😎
Fantastic Ray... With real World data that supports the change!
You wouldn't happen to have a part # I could use for that Pully ? I've been looking through a bunch of places and they all have different outer diameters but the main one there showing different for the shaft size, I have a 19 Suburban and was going to do dual batteries and LIKE this idea ! Your one of the "BEST" !!!
Yay, upgrades 😅. Hey Mr Ray hope y'all had a great weekend
I have a 25% underdrive crank pulley on my goat.. frees up a few ponies.
Nice job Ray like this kind of teaching video
Short and sweet! Thanks
Overdrive pulley are nice but the bad thing is when you overrun the alternator, especially the AD244, it will cause it to break the copper wire that runs to the internal coil, the centrifugal force will snaps it right off. I've seen it countless times. So if your customers have a lead foot that AD244 alternator will not last very long before the customer needs a new one. I am a retired high-end car audio specialist.
PS. Ray put a disclaimer on the invoice that you're not responsible for any alternator damage caused by the overdrive pulley that you installed at customers request.
Higher rotation speed = more output power + greater wear on alternator bearings, + greater heat generation in the windings and diodes.
since the bearings are likely rated at a minimum 10k rpm and the winding literally sitting in an engine bay id say it is within tolerance.
Don't you get higher rotation speed as you accelerate anyways?
Just curious. If the smaller pulley on the alternator is such a good thing, why doesn't the auto manufacturer use the smaller pulley? Does it affect the life of the alternator? Are power cables properly sized for the additional current?
Max output won't change it's electronicly regulated
He is only trying to change low rpm output
Congrats on the milestone.
Welcoming back!
My advice - you should straight away, go and swap the larger pulley of the two alternators on your "dirtymax" to equal the smaller one for more power output to your charging capacity.
Thanks for this proof-of-concept video Ray. Two queries requiring your enlightenment, if you will: (1) does the smaller/faster-spinning pulley have any significant impact on alternator longevity? And (2) does the automatic engine stop/start "feature" on newer vehicles which occurs whenever the vehicle comes to a complete stop (which I find annoying as hell) actually shorten the life of the starter, battery, and/or alternator? Congrats on attaining 500,000+ subscribers on your main channel and 100,000+ on your secondary channel, you deserve it.
The auto stop/start is more annoying than hell, I have a European car with it, but fortunately the inhibit button needs only the index finger extension when going from P to D with the central selector (VW DSG). If I remember that is. . . . . . . . .
It scares me fartless when the engine stops at a junction and then I curse myself of course.
IIRC in recent tests the saving of fuel and pollution is around the limits of measurement accuracy.
@@572BtriodeYou're fortunate to have an override button to defeat the system prior to start-up. Many manufacturers no longer provide such convenient functionality on the dash or center console, so some owners have to purchase an aftermarket plug-in override component (which may or may not set a trouble code) or come up with other inconvenient/impractical workarounds. Example: I understand that on certain Toyotas, if you first open the hood (bonnet) and then start the engine, the stop/start function will be defeated because the system interprets that as the vehicle being serviced or under repair -- but the system resets itself once the hood is closed and the engine turned off (the sensor is part of the hood latch mechanism). 🙄
@@craigcraigster4999 Yep, fortunate to have the button, which will turn the system on or off at any time, even while driving, it defaults to on, of course, at every start.
However, I live in rural France and have commonly driven for an hour to find the engine stops when stopping to open my gate, it is a very quiet place here.
Just why these systems are foisted on us is annoying, they're of dubious benefit and often promoted by people who don't actually have all the facts.
Thank you..
Science testing, nice.
Can you post a link as to where to get a smaller pulley
More voltage at idle by spinning faster.
And that, right there, is the key.
@@ralph5476 👍I quit with the aftermarket parts. Only OEM original parts for me now.
I have heard this reduces the life of the alternator.
The trade off of that ratio will be more wear on the belt, less fuel economy, and more wear on the bearing of the alternator
good video and excellent help you have. much additional wear will be put on the alternator with the extra 800 rpm?
Again nice video for all of us with a 06 Chevy 4.8 have an alternator that runs too slow you're not helping anybody if you don't give the dimensions or where to get it or who makes it. What diameter is it is it a 43 mm or 42 mm of 46 because I believe the stock one is 50 something or 60 millimeter
I keep hearing from Trans Am/ Camaro owners to put a truck alt on LS1’s. I have so many upgrades (LED lights, amp, fuzz buster, dashcam,etc) when I start driving my alt meter starts at 14 volts but after driving awhile it drops to 12.8.
Thanks Ray
The Binford 6100 more power R.R.R. Upgrade.
So once that belt stretches just a little the tensioner travel reaches max travel causing belt slip/squeal. Just put a shorter belt on and be done with it.🤷♂️
I was waiting for the cabling from your meter to get grabbed by the spinning belts....I wonder how many RPM that meter could whirl at...
Thank you for another great video. Stay safe out there. Cheers
Nicely done sir
Nice job on 100k.
I need so much work done to my SUV I wish I lived here so you could fix mine for me. I am in the Tampa area this weekend and wish you were open.
Notification squad Have a great weekend!🔥🔥🔥
With 10 or 20% reduced tension now being applied and with prior belt stretching from the larger factory pulley in place I would have recommended a new and fresh serpentine belt. Why not?
I put a new alternator on my square burb, the windows went up way faster!
A more correct way of determining the performance at idle is to measure the output voltage. Alternators are a constant voltage source of about 14V - assuming that they are spinning fast enough. So, what was the output voltage, with everything switched on, for both pulleys at idle?
The pulley change does not make the alternator itself to produce more current, the alternator will produce a much higher voltage which will make the battery to draw more current. With a 40% higher alternator speed one can expect the voltage to be around 18V and that battery will get a shortened lifetime.
@@L_O_M Sorry to disagree, but the regulator will cut in and stop the output voltage exceeding ~14V. That is its purpose. Otherwise output voltage with full rotor current can easily exceed 100V. Car alternators are a constant voltage source - because of the regulator.
I built my own alternator regulator when the regulator failed on one car I had. It worked fine, keeping the voltage constant at ~14V (typically 13.8V-14.2V) regardless of load and RPM.
The smaller pulley here, simply makes it regulate at ~14V at a lower engine RPM.
You know you want one of those "hot air intakes" for your big boy toy Ray. Just not a Chinesium one.
Short n seeet still awesome 👍👍👍
Nicely done Ray !
congrats on 100k!
There's a reason special batteries are made for stop/ start vehicles.
Good day ray
The alternator will run out of amps sooner. They fill the alternator's amp tank up at the factory, and one day when it's empty you have to buy a new alternator.
like those auto stop/start options
To save a gallon or so a year. Imagine to cost to swap a starter that’s worn out early.
As silly as those systems are (yes I always shut it off) they are quite smart...
They don't shut the engine off if battery charge is low or battery health is low, and they use AGM batteries which can charge a lot faster, so the car will charge the battery rapidly during off throttle deceleration periods and braking, rather than constantly maintaining x voltage no matter what and letting the battery take in whatever charge current that voltage lets it accept.
There is a lot of change, even though the batteries and alternator all appear the same... Computers are now in charge.
Yes 1 gallon a year for you, 1 gallon for your neighbor - adds to millions cars and here we go millions gallons saved. Less pollution and that is why they do it, they have to comply with emissions regulations. Secondly you have to buy extra starter, extra battery, well they ewill gladly sell it to you.
Congratulations on getting a 100 k
Amperage is the amount of power the car systems are drawing. To prove that. Simply shut the lights and AC off and the amp draw from the car systems will be less.
Nice video but you did not give us a comparison or size difference how big is a stock one and what's the diameter of the aftermarket is and who makes it or where to get it
Miss the doo dee doo might have to get you one..lol
A while back the Wife Unit had one on her phone and played it for him. He told her to never do that again. He didn't sound amused.
We need to set up a Go Fund Me collection for this. 😅
So, What happens when your customer tramps the throttle to overtake a semi going uphill? sustained high RPM
Would you have a link for the alternator pully by any chance ??
I swear if you call that Pully a gear one more time I'll chuckle one more time! Another forced Wife unit appearance!! The Force is strong with this one!!!🤣🤣🤣
He also referred to the RPM meter as a thermometer at one point, but let's keep that to ourselves. 🤫
Cub cadet lawn tractot gt2544 2005 yr maintainer since new 05 its got it's Battery replaced 1 time that's the seconð battery!!
Thought that was a cold air duct... Pros and cons in what you are doing. Better choice is a new low speed high out put alternator. If you really want to know what is going on with your dc circuit have two amp gauges showing the the draw and the output..
"Thought that was a cold air duct" You need to watch the previous video for the explanation.
Interesting tip
Ahhh! Very good.
Hey Ray👏!!! Hope you and the family are doing well. I’m surprised you didn’t talk your customer into doing an intake from Banks Performance? You did give them more electrons😁👍
Maybe one is already on the way
@@RainmanRayOffDuty are you still running the intake from banks on your dually? I remember the snorkel was under the bumper
90th! Happy Sunday afternoon Ray! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Does this shorten the life of the alternator since the nador is going faster for the rest of it's life.
Since most batteries are no longer pro rated and only have a 3 year warranty you’d be better off replacing the battery after the warranty runs out or every 3-5 years. Of course it depends on the type of driving one does.
Good morning RAY ,looks like you'll have to pay the Wife Unit more, for all the times she is forced to be in your videos 😅😅😅 good video 😂
I wonder how much increase in voltage at the battery was, I wished you had checked that also.
Nice!
Any concerns of over revving the alternator with high engine RPM's? Just guessing, but it seems if the engine idle is 500 RPM and the nador was spinning at 2800 that would make 6000 RPM spin the nador at around 37,000? Just rambling a bit here...
Would it be a problem if you put on the new pulley without a spacer and let it “self-clearance?”
Ray what's the easiest way to find the right size pulls to do this upgrade..??thanks ahead of time..Joe
Ebay for this kind of thing
Are there any drawbacks? Or why is this not the factory configuration?
If you are spinning bearings at a higher speed continuously, it stands to reason that their service life will be shortened. That kind of thing always comes down to: Will you keep the vehicle long enough for that shortened lifespan to occur while you still are using the vehicle?
@@briandeschene8424 Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation
How do the newer vehicles with the stop/start crap deal with this regarding the battery, charging system & starter? Seems like that would be hard on an engine and everything else over time.
I wish you would put a link to that pulley in the description. I would like to get one. Not sure how to find one for mine.
So battery life extended, but what about alternator life. More RPMs equals less life, right?
Howdy, Ray!
Snap rev the engine for a squeaky belt from being loose?
I thought that it's "plastic" that it would turn faster...also you shoulda ordered an 'Orange' one 🧐😏
Longer battery life. Shorter alternator life!
Will that put more strain on the alternator thus causing premature failure of the alternator ?
great job very interesting just a slight change in pulley , makes a big difference in power to the
battery(🪫 s) and longevity for the batteries. nice to show you can change the things for the better.
Will the alternator handle it will it last as long as normal operation before changing the the pulley?
Wow... the scraping noise... was that bearing noise or pully scraping on alt housing
So with auto stop/start, does that effect the alternator? Or did the engineers compensate for that? Also, have you seen or heard of any engine problems since the addition of such feature? Thx Ray.
Do you have a link to the replacement pulley?
But if you're spinning your alternator faster doesn't that reduce it's life?
If you are spinning bearings at a higher speed continuously, it stands to reason that their service life will be shortened. That kind of thing always comes down to: Will you keep the vehicle long enough for that shortened lifespan to occur while you still are using the vehicle?
👍
Anyone know what power and/or amperage the factory charging harness is rated in this or these vehicles?
Stupid question:
Does it can damage the alternator / batteries if we use the small pulley and use the car / truck on highway (high rpm) for a long time ?
Where obtained the pulley?
that alternator wont last long with a smaller pulley its going to be overdriven at high rpm and its going to cook .
Put a high amp alternator on it