Jo hn Thanks so much! I put it up on a Facebook group that was having a spirited discussion about CAD for jewelry, and how it was cheating. So I was showing them the actual process of sculpting. I’m working on more tutorials, so stay tuned! And thank you for your kind words. 😁
@@KatAdair Thanks for the nice reply Kat and the effort you put into this. Learning a lot ! and you are a pleasure to listen to. Looking forward to more :)
JERRY GRAY I just realized I never responded to your message...my apologies! I’m using a Formlabs SLA (resin) printer. The process is similar to lost wax casting, but the resin model (in the casting investment) actually vaporizes in the kiln during burnout instead of melting out. It takes longer than a wax model, but direct casting is possible and works! For many of my models, I’ll create an RTV rubber mold from the 3D print and inject wax because it burns out faster and cleaner, but I’ve had many successful casts directly from castable resins. One of my favorites is called BlueCast...I think they’re out of Italy but we can get it here in the states.
Kat how are you? I found your works very beautiful !! Congratulations ... if I can make a ring in Zbrush, can I open the file in Rhinoceros? the measures of the ring are accurate in both software if you can open it?
Hey There! You definitely can open the file from ZBrush in Rhino, and vice versa. I’ve seen other jewelers start with a base ring or object in Rhino, then export as STL or OBJ, and import into ZBrush. Something weird, though...you can import and export OBJ files (I believe) under the Tool palette, but STL file import and export are found under the Plugins menu under the 3D Print Hub section. I don’t have ZBrush in front of me at the moment, but I believe that should be correct. If you start with the base object in Rhino, ZBrush will recognize the size...you can add sculpting, then when you export back into Rhino, it should retain the size. I’ve gotten to the point where I use the XYZ Size in ZBrush as actual mm measurements, but when I export out to other CAD programs, it acts a little weird. With my Formlabs printer, it works just fine and the size is accurate. If you would like to send me a Rhino file in either OBJ or STL, I’d be happy to do a little video. Send me an email at kat@katadair.com. I’m usually pretty bad at checking email, but I’ll keep an eye out. We may have to transfer through Dropbox or something. Cheers!
This should get you there...if you do a Google search on “pixologic materials” there is an area on their site with these. This is in the metals section. Load it from the Materials picker on the left. If you want it to load every time you launch the application, you can add this to the ZStartup folder inside the ZBrush folder...put it in the Materials folder-the one inside ZStartup. Here’s a link.... download.pixologic01.com/download.php?f=/library/matcap/sathe/gw_worn_gold.zip Happy ZBrushing!
I’ve recently became interested in jewellery, I’ve already know how to use zbrush. Do you have any tips on where I go from there? What printer would you recommend as starter, would I need to search for apprenticeship?
A A, wow, good questions. And it all depends on what you’d like to do. Do you see yourself creating one-of-a-kind statement pieces, or more casual lifestyle jewelry? Sorry for the long reply...we’re staying home under the COVID recommendations... If you’re new to jewelry, I would recommend taking a class in wax carving and casting...I’ve found that adapting that traditional knowledge to the computer was really important. Things like knowing the thickness of your piece, castability and such. A big challenge for folks coming straight from ZBrush is understanding wearability of jewelry and weight. I actually keep a thickness gauge in my backpack, and I measure every piece of jewelry I see. Perhaps for folks coming from a formal program, they would learn these in their curriculum. I learned fabrication from sheet and wire first, so all I know of cast jewelry came from observation of other artists’ work, and from an excellent wax carving teacher named Kate Wolf. I know she teaches around the US, and I believe she also teaches outside the US. What I learned from her class was invaluable to my work in ZBrush. There are a lot of printers out there that are very capable...I have a Formlabs that I like quite a bit, but it depends on your budget. I started out sending files to Shapeways, but the turnaround made it difficult to learn what worked and what didn’t. If you’re interested in printing your own, you definitely want an SLA type printer, with the resin vat, but there are two different types (that I know of). One is a DLP, that uses essentially an LCD projector to flash the layers into the resin, or the laser type. The advantage of the laser type is that those printers can print both small and large. DLP printers generally have a VERY small build footprint...one I knew of was like 1.5” x 2.5”. My Formlabs Form 2 has a 6”x6” build platform, so not only can I print jewelry items, I can also print fixtures and dies for my hydraulic press. I like that flexibility a lot...for Christmas for a friend, I created a small 1-1/4” pendant, of a rubber chicken, then switched out the tray and resin cartridge to print a full-size rubber chicken statue. The Formlabs printers also have slicing software that is very nice on both Mac and PC, and it’s a standalone printer that doesn’t require a dedicated computer to drive it. I’ve had my Formlabs Form 2 now for about 3-1/2 years, and it’s still going strong. Having a printer available is a great learning tool...you can print your design and even wear it to see how it feels...my friends probably wonder why I wear “plastic” jewelry occasionally. I’m giving it a trial run. That said, I’ve seen some incredible resolution come of out the DLP type printers. I’m not up on the current offerings, but one that had nice quality was the Solus from Junction 3D...the reason I didn’t purchase that one was that it required a separate purchase of a DLP projector, and required a dedicated computer to drive it. It also wasn’t as “Mac-friendly” as I’d like. I would say that you’re looking at about $3,000-4,000 for a decent printer, and materials can be expensive. Consumables include the tanks and resin...tanks for mine are about $70 (USD) and a kg of resin can run up to $299. So it’s an in investment. There are less expensive printers on the market, but I’ve noticed the ones with finer detail generally fall in the $3500 range. But remember, while you’re figuring it all out, you can get reasonably priced prints from companies like Shapeways, it might take a little time. If you are able to get an apprenticeship, that would be AWESOME. If you’re already a ZBrush artist, you’ve most likely got a different creative mindset and sculptural background than what is required of a traditional bench jeweler. I’ve noticed that large design houses such as Tiffany, Ralph Lauren, and others have advertised for jewelry artists with ZBrush experience. It all depends on what type of jewelry you want to do. Pieces with stones? Sculptural charms? Do you have any artists you follow that you can describe their style? And where are you located?
@@KatAdair I'm using zbrush from a games background, I'm currently in uni for it. at this point, this is just curiosity in jewelry, I will probably try and work on some designs and I'll give you a link in the next 2 months if you wanna give feedback(i need to first finish my deadlines first). I'm in England. the artist i looked at so far has been Tomas Wittelsbach. and printers of that price point would probably be an investment that'll take 2-3 years to buy, but working on designs and stuff in that time would probably be the plan. appreciate the detailed response, made a lot of things clear. I still wanna pursue my original career but this seems like something that would be worth learning about, I have been thinking about a potential online store for a while on selling scultps and jewelry would be great idea
Jewel Gold, thanks for pointing that out...interestingly, I had made this as a quick video for a Facebook group having an almost “religious” debate about whether CAD-created jewelry was not “real,” handmade jewelry. I never expected it to have a lot of views! Anyway, the answer to your question is a blurred mask. If you use the circle mask tool, you get a hard line, so you can use the “Blur Mask” tool, OR you can use the Focal Shift slider before applying the mask, which will cause the edges to soften. Then when you use the Move tool, it will pull out into a cone. It’s a technique that I also use to raise text with a draft...one of the first RTV molds I made had vertical edges that were so sharp that it caused problems with the wax models. Adding a slight blur to the text gives it a falloff that helps it work better. I’ll try and do a small followup on this one this afternoon...
@@KatAdair Wow!! Phenomenal explanation that you have given me, thank you very much !! And tell you that I support you in the mission of demonstrating that jewelry made in CAD are also artisan jewelry, they have a lot of work, that only knows who does it, simply use another technique. Surely whoever attacks CAD jewelry, today uses systems that 25, 30, ... years ago were not used because they did not exist. You should not underestimate any technique, but the work, quality and effort that a person has done on that piece. I will listen to your teachings at ZBrush, thank you.
Jérémy De Marco, there is a ZPlugin (look towards the right side of the menus) called RingMaster. I do not use this for its intended use-which is to make basic rings that are sized. I use a different method of sizing, so this functionality doesn’t work for me. I use the Transpose Line as a measuring tool and work actual size, so this plugin doesn’t do what I need. However, buried in the Ringmaster plugin is a button marked Gemstones. You can choose to apply stones to a band, which distributes them around a band, or turn that option off to create a single stone in a new Subtool. You’ll find round, marquise, pear, oval, and emerald, or it will allow you to import other models as stones. It works well, and the models are very low polygon counts. If you take a look at the PolyFrame (to the right of the stage), you can view the mesh-it’s efficient. It uses creasing to make the stone have nice, crisp cuts. You *may* have to recenter the Gizmo3D after you place the stone on the stage. Switch to the Move mode, and use the third icon (looks like a Google Places icon) to find the center. Unlock the Gizmo by pressing Option (Mac) or Alt (PC) and clicking on the circle with the arrows above the Gizmo3D (I think it says “Reset Mesh Orientation,” but I’m not at my computer at the moment!) One other REALLY important thing to know. When you use this Plugin, it will WIPE OUT anything else you’re working on...if you have multiple tools open, they will literally disappear with no warning. So make sure that you’ve saved either the ZTool from the Tool palette, or save the entire ZProject from the File menu BEFORE adding any stones. I use these stones in almost every piece I create. Hopefully that’s helpful!
Jérémy De Marco, you can also turn these into IMM Brushes so you can apply them to the surface of a piece, or even turn them into IMM Curve brushes for applying a line of spaced stones. It’s pretty cool stuff! Have fun!
@@KatAdair Thank you again for taking the time to answer me. I just looked at the description of ring master and this one looks very interesting. I'm quite used to CAD, (I have almost 20 years of experience in 3D mainly CAD) and zbrush is relatively new to me. I've been wanting to get into it for years and the user interface has always scared me a little bit. :D :D This time I'm going all the way with it. And it's nice to have specialized, well-made videos like yours. Once again a big thank you!! I hope to see many more of your videos on the subject !!!
Benjamin yes. I’m using a Wacom Intuos, the small one. Many ZBrush artists use the Wacom Cintiq, but I prefer the smaller Wacom tablet because I can tuck it into my backpack. If you’re looking for one of these, I got one of mine on Amazon, but bought another one for a friend on eBay for about $30. I also have a larger Wacom, but I actually use the smaller one more often. Anyway, stay safe!
Benjamin I am about to launch one on another platform that is geared towards folks who are new to ZBrush and needing a comprehensive understanding of the tools that are useful for jewelry artists. Stay tuned! If you go to my website, I think it still has a splash screen to add your name to a list to be notified. I won’t spam or share names, it’s just to let folks know. Thanks so much!
In my longer and more recent videos, it should be louder...unfortunately, TH-cam will not allow me to replace the video. Would you mind checking out the videos on my actual course and see if they’re better? It’s at www.zbrushjewelry.com, just scroll to the bottom under “Course Outline.” There are several getting-started videos (navigation, a basic sculpt, setting up my custom interface), and I’m curious if that’s louder for you? Many thanks for reaching out!
I did this one as a quickie a few years ago to address an argument in a Facebook group about whether it was cheating to use sculpting software to create jewelry. 😃
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
You deserve a lot more views. One of a kind. Absolute define and beautiful designs and tutorials !
Jo hn Thanks so much! I put it up on a Facebook group that was having a spirited discussion about CAD for jewelry, and how it was cheating. So I was showing them the actual process of sculpting. I’m working on more tutorials, so stay tuned! And thank you for your kind words. 😁
@@KatAdair Thanks for the nice reply Kat and the effort you put into this. Learning a lot ! and you are a pleasure to listen to. Looking forward to more :)
@@KatAdair what's your fb IS or fb group you mentioned here?
so cute ;-; I've started doing some jewelry sculptures recently and your tutorials are the best
thanks for your tutorial it was useful for beginners
I would love to see how the supports are added to the bird. Thank you
Hi Thank you so much for the tutorial! it is very helpful! in the future tutorial Could you please show us how to make faceted stone ? Thank you!
Thanks again. I never heard of using 3d printing as a "lost wax" process of casting. I would love to see some casting tutorials for these :)
JERRY GRAY I just realized I never responded to your message...my apologies! I’m using a Formlabs SLA (resin) printer. The process is similar to lost wax casting, but the resin model (in the casting investment) actually vaporizes in the kiln during burnout instead of melting out. It takes longer than a wax model, but direct casting is possible and works!
For many of my models, I’ll create an RTV rubber mold from the 3D print and inject wax because it burns out faster and cleaner, but I’ve had many successful casts directly from castable resins. One of my favorites is called BlueCast...I think they’re out of Italy but we can get it here in the states.
Thank you!!!!
wow! it looks cute and nice sculpt :)
thank you for this great video!!!
Nice Video. Interesting
No videos.... 5 months passed... please upload more anxiously waiting. Thanks
wow
Kat how are you? I found your works very beautiful !! Congratulations ... if I can make a ring in Zbrush, can I open the file in Rhinoceros? the measures of the ring are accurate in both software if you can open it?
Hey There! You definitely can open the file from ZBrush in Rhino, and vice versa. I’ve seen other jewelers start with a base ring or object in Rhino, then export as STL or OBJ, and import into ZBrush. Something weird, though...you can import and export OBJ files (I believe) under the Tool palette, but STL file import and export are found under the Plugins menu under the 3D Print Hub section. I don’t have ZBrush in front of me at the moment, but I believe that should be correct.
If you start with the base object in Rhino, ZBrush will recognize the size...you can add sculpting, then when you export back into Rhino, it should retain the size.
I’ve gotten to the point where I use the XYZ Size in ZBrush as actual mm measurements, but when I export out to other CAD programs, it acts a little weird. With my Formlabs printer, it works just fine and the size is accurate.
If you would like to send me a Rhino file in either OBJ or STL, I’d be happy to do a little video. Send me an email at kat@katadair.com. I’m usually pretty bad at checking email, but I’ll keep an eye out. We may have to transfer through Dropbox or something. Cheers!
Kat this material where find ? worn gold ? tks for video !
This should get you there...if you do a Google search on “pixologic materials” there is an area on their site with these. This is in the metals section. Load it from the Materials picker on the left. If you want it to load every time you launch the application, you can add this to the ZStartup folder inside the ZBrush folder...put it in the Materials folder-the one inside ZStartup. Here’s a link.... download.pixologic01.com/download.php?f=/library/matcap/sathe/gw_worn_gold.zip
Happy ZBrushing!
@@KatAdair obrigado querida !
Which version of Zbrush are you using?
I’ve recently became interested in jewellery, I’ve already know how to use zbrush. Do you have any tips on where I go from there? What printer would you recommend as starter, would I need to search for apprenticeship?
A A, wow, good questions. And it all depends on what you’d like to do. Do you see yourself creating one-of-a-kind statement pieces, or more casual lifestyle jewelry?
Sorry for the long reply...we’re staying home under the COVID recommendations...
If you’re new to jewelry, I would recommend taking a class in wax carving and casting...I’ve found that adapting that traditional knowledge to the computer was really important. Things like knowing the thickness of your piece, castability and such. A big challenge for folks coming straight from ZBrush is understanding wearability of jewelry and weight. I actually keep a thickness gauge in my backpack, and I measure every piece of jewelry I see. Perhaps for folks coming from a formal program, they would learn these in their curriculum. I learned fabrication from sheet and wire first, so all I know of cast jewelry came from observation of other artists’ work, and from an excellent wax carving teacher named Kate Wolf. I know she teaches around the US, and I believe she also teaches outside the US. What I learned from her class was invaluable to my work in ZBrush.
There are a lot of printers out there that are very capable...I have a Formlabs that I like quite a bit, but it depends on your budget. I started out sending files to Shapeways, but the turnaround made it difficult to learn what worked and what didn’t.
If you’re interested in printing your own, you definitely want an SLA type printer, with the resin vat, but there are two different types (that I know of). One is a DLP, that uses essentially an LCD projector to flash the layers into the resin, or the laser type. The advantage of the laser type is that those printers can print both small and large. DLP printers generally have a VERY small build footprint...one I knew of was like 1.5” x 2.5”. My Formlabs Form 2 has a 6”x6” build platform, so not only can I print jewelry items, I can also print fixtures and dies for my hydraulic press. I like that flexibility a lot...for Christmas for a friend, I created a small 1-1/4” pendant, of a rubber chicken, then switched out the tray and resin cartridge to print a full-size rubber chicken statue. The Formlabs printers also have slicing software that is very nice on both Mac and PC, and it’s a standalone printer that doesn’t require a dedicated computer to drive it. I’ve had my Formlabs Form 2 now for about 3-1/2 years, and it’s still going strong. Having a printer available is a great learning tool...you can print your design and even wear it to see how it feels...my friends probably wonder why I wear “plastic” jewelry occasionally. I’m giving it a trial run.
That said, I’ve seen some incredible resolution come of out the DLP type printers. I’m not up on the current offerings, but one that had nice quality was the Solus from Junction 3D...the reason I didn’t purchase that one was that it required a separate purchase of a DLP projector, and required a dedicated computer to drive it. It also wasn’t as “Mac-friendly” as I’d like.
I would say that you’re looking at about $3,000-4,000 for a decent printer, and materials can be expensive. Consumables include the tanks and resin...tanks for mine are about $70 (USD) and a kg of resin can run up to $299. So it’s an in investment. There are less expensive printers on the market, but I’ve noticed the ones with finer detail generally fall in the $3500 range. But remember, while you’re figuring it all out, you can get reasonably priced prints from companies like Shapeways, it might take a little time.
If you are able to get an apprenticeship, that would be AWESOME. If you’re already a ZBrush artist, you’ve most likely got a different creative mindset and sculptural background than what is required of a traditional bench jeweler. I’ve noticed that large design houses such as Tiffany, Ralph Lauren, and others have advertised for jewelry artists with ZBrush experience. It all depends on what type of jewelry you want to do. Pieces with stones? Sculptural charms? Do you have any artists you follow that you can describe their style? And where are you located?
@@KatAdair I'm using zbrush from a games background, I'm currently in uni for it. at this point, this is just curiosity in jewelry, I will probably try and work on some designs and I'll give you a link in the next 2 months if you wanna give feedback(i need to first finish my deadlines first). I'm in England. the artist i looked at so far has been Tomas Wittelsbach. and printers of that price point would probably be an investment that'll take 2-3 years to buy, but working on designs and stuff in that time would probably be the plan. appreciate the detailed response, made a lot of things clear. I still wanna pursue my original career but this seems like something that would be worth learning about, I have been thinking about a potential online store for a while on selling scultps and jewelry would be great idea
How do you create the peak? If I mask and move, the circle comes out like a cylinder, not a cone like you. Thanks!!
Jewel Gold, thanks for pointing that out...interestingly, I had made this as a quick video for a Facebook group having an almost “religious” debate about whether CAD-created jewelry was not “real,” handmade jewelry. I never expected it to have a lot of views! Anyway, the answer to your question is a blurred mask. If you use the circle mask tool, you get a hard line, so you can use the “Blur Mask” tool, OR you can use the Focal Shift slider before applying the mask, which will cause the edges to soften. Then when you use the Move tool, it will pull out into a cone. It’s a technique that I also use to raise text with a draft...one of the first RTV molds I made had vertical edges that were so sharp that it caused problems with the wax models. Adding a slight blur to the text gives it a falloff that helps it work better.
I’ll try and do a small followup on this one this afternoon...
@@KatAdair Wow!! Phenomenal explanation that you have given me, thank you very much !!
And tell you that I support you in the mission of demonstrating that jewelry made in CAD are also artisan jewelry, they have a lot of work, that only knows who does it, simply use another technique. Surely whoever attacks CAD jewelry, today uses systems that 25, 30, ... years ago were not used because they did not exist. You should not underestimate any technique, but the work, quality and effort that a person has done on that piece. I will listen to your teachings at ZBrush, thank you.
Thank you so much! ❤️
Hi, is there a gem library for zbrush ? Thanks !!
Jérémy De Marco, there is a ZPlugin (look towards the right side of the menus) called RingMaster. I do not use this for its intended use-which is to make basic rings that are sized. I use a different method of sizing, so this functionality doesn’t work for me. I use the Transpose Line as a measuring tool and work actual size, so this plugin doesn’t do what I need.
However, buried in the Ringmaster plugin is a button marked Gemstones. You can choose to apply stones to a band, which distributes them around a band, or turn that option off to create a single stone in a new Subtool. You’ll find round, marquise, pear, oval, and emerald, or it will allow you to import other models as stones. It works well, and the models are very low polygon counts. If you take a look at the PolyFrame (to the right of the stage), you can view the mesh-it’s efficient. It uses creasing to make the stone have nice, crisp cuts.
You *may* have to recenter the Gizmo3D after you place the stone on the stage. Switch to the Move mode, and use the third icon (looks like a Google Places icon) to find the center. Unlock the Gizmo by pressing Option (Mac) or Alt (PC) and clicking on the circle with the arrows above the Gizmo3D (I think it says “Reset Mesh Orientation,” but I’m not at my computer at the moment!)
One other REALLY important thing to know. When you use this Plugin, it will WIPE OUT anything else you’re working on...if you have multiple tools open, they will literally disappear with no warning. So make sure that you’ve saved either the ZTool from the Tool palette, or save the entire ZProject from the File menu BEFORE adding any stones.
I use these stones in almost every piece I create.
Hopefully that’s helpful!
@@KatAdair I will look forward, thanks for your time !!
Jérémy De Marco, you can also turn these into IMM Brushes so you can apply them to the surface of a piece, or even turn them into IMM Curve brushes for applying a line of spaced stones. It’s pretty cool stuff! Have fun!
@@KatAdair Thank you again for taking the time to answer me. I just looked at the description of ring master and this one looks very interesting. I'm quite used to CAD, (I have almost 20 years of experience in 3D mainly CAD) and zbrush is relatively new to me.
I've been wanting to get into it for years and the user interface has always scared me a little bit. :D :D
This time I'm going all the way with it. And it's nice to have specialized, well-made videos like yours. Once again a big thank you!! I hope to see many more of your videos on the subject !!!
Are you using a tablet to draw?
Benjamin yes. I’m using a Wacom Intuos, the small one. Many ZBrush artists use the Wacom Cintiq, but I prefer the smaller Wacom tablet because I can tuck it into my backpack. If you’re looking for one of these, I got one of mine on Amazon, but bought another one for a friend on eBay for about $30. I also have a larger Wacom, but I actually use the smaller one more often. Anyway, stay safe!
Kat Adair thank you for the reply! Very good tutorials, you should think about doing a full blown course on udemy.
Benjamin I am about to launch one on another platform that is geared towards folks who are new to ZBrush and needing a comprehensive understanding of the tools that are useful for jewelry artists. Stay tuned! If you go to my website, I think it still has a splash screen to add your name to a list to be notified. I won’t spam or share names, it’s just to let folks know. Thanks so much!
Can you please work with the sound in your videos, it is always extremely low. I must max out my volume to hear anything
In my longer and more recent videos, it should be louder...unfortunately, TH-cam will not allow me to replace the video. Would you mind checking out the videos on my actual course and see if they’re better? It’s at www.zbrushjewelry.com, just scroll to the bottom under “Course Outline.” There are several getting-started videos (navigation, a basic sculpt, setting up my custom interface), and I’m curious if that’s louder for you? Many thanks for reaching out!
I did this one as a quickie a few years ago to address an argument in a Facebook group about whether it was cheating to use sculpting software to create jewelry. 😃
Mam you r ooooooooosm #10;)
ASIF AZIM thank you!
hello lady!!!!!!!!!!!