Rock Climbing Tips: Finding a better beta on a crucial start
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- Sharing rock climbing tips on this specific bouldering problem with a crucial start. I share how I was able to find a better beta to send this bouldering problem.
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music by Dyalla Swain / dyallas
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
Hello fellow climbers, Hope you're having a fantastic day! Love you guys and hope you crush it at the Gym today! Good day.
rockentry great video! Your videography and music selection keep getting better. Keep it up ✌️
Love that you are focusing on the small details lately! Keep keeping on compadre! :)
Thanks man! It's all in the detail, you know it!
This is super helpful. As a beginner, I really appreciate seeing your trials and hearing from you what you were thinking to improvise.
Thank you for showing your attempts! Sometimes I feel silly taking forever on a problem but watching you having to do the same thing gives me confidence to take my time
We all fall and learn ;)
Your vids about climbing tips get better and better. Love it. I'm really excited when I notice there's a new vid on your channel.
This means a lot! Glad you’re enjoying the content so much you look forward to it. Really appreciate ya! Thank you!
Your videos are so helpful and very encouraging to me. I'm a fairly novice climber, currently only up to V4's (on good days), but the techniques you teach and how you show the progress from start to finish has taught me as much about climbing as actually being on the wall myself! My approach to beta, hip direction/movement, slopers and body positioning has vastly improved since watching your videos (watching for about a month).
You seem like a cool dude and I'm very grateful that you share these videos with us. Thank you, you've earned another subscriber in me!
This is awesome! Thanks so much for sharing and being a fellow subscriber ;) much love!
I really enjoy your videos - they are among the best I've seen so far for improving my technique. Love how the viewer feels part of your thought process and really follows you working on your climb. Great work! Keep it up!
Thanks man! glad you're enjoying the content here. you rock!
love this! please make more of this type of videos. there aren't many on youtube and it's super helpful!
I love your videos. It's cool to see how the small adjustments can make such a big difference.
Thank you!
It helps me take my mind off a torn patella tendon, simultaneous glad to see more climbing and super jealous.
Oh man, I'm so sorry for your injury! Wishing you a fast recovery and glad I could at least help a bit by providing content you enjoy during your recovery. Take good care and Thank you!
I love the fact that it is tiny detailed adjustments that make all the difference. Sweet!
Totally agree!! Such a huge difference indeed when just making a small adjustment, that’s what’s so great about climbing!
absolutely fantastic as usual ! Incredible "the momentum", a little thing give a big difference ! I love it
Yeah, such a small tweak with moving the left smear higher makes a huge difference. Thank you!
Thank you as always for your videos! As someone who is past the very beginning stages of climbing, these specific tips and details have been extremely helpful/insightful. Not only that, but you provide us with so much variety. Thanks again and cheers!
Awesome Megan! Glad you find these video helpful. Thank you for the support! Appreciate ya!
Your videos are always SO helpful! I’m a beginner and have been hitting the climbing gym once a week since February. I’m able to climb easier intermediate problems and short overhanging routes now. Slow process but still process. ;)
Glad I can help in some way :) keep on crushing it girl! Slow progress is a big deal when it comes to climbing. Thank you!
for the last move i suggest throwing your right hand towards the empty hold at your chest. it is to the right of your foot (unlike the finishing hold) which allows you to pull yourself back to the wall instead of barn dooring away. from there going for the last hold is mostly going upwards, not creating that much swing.
Very useful and helpful, just as all your other vids. Best wishes and hope to keep enjoying your vids in 2019 too!
Thanks so much! Wishing you good sends for 2019! :)
Nice! Big up for this vid series!
Rockentry, awesome video. I am actually working on a project that has a very similar move, where you have to stop your momentum/swing. The set up is so similar. I was trying to flag with my left leg, but what I will try now is a higher flag/smear, like you did! Thanks again :)
Sweet!! Please do update us and let us know if you send your project. Remember high smear on the wall and it will automatically stop you from swinging =) thats if it's a similar situation of-course hehehe. Good luck my friend and crush it!!
First of all, your videos are amazing and I have seriously improved my climbing by applying your advice. For that, I thank you a thousand times. Second, I must know the name of the song at the end.
please continue this series. very helpful dude
Will do. Thank you!
I am watching your climbing video all the way I don’t know how could you be able to so strong and the ability to move hard move love it 😮
Just got into bouldering 5 weeks ago and have watched a lot of different bouldering channels to increase my knowledge. Yours is by far my favourite since you go into soo much detail on all the climbs etc. Good editing also. Praises. I'm now attempting v5 climbs thanks to some of your tips on top of training i'm doing at the gym specifically to help me for climbs. You should do some videos on indoor crack climbing if you have access to those kinds of climbs. Cheers.
Thanks for the tips! It really does help my climbing to see how you work out the moves!
For sure, Glad I can help! =) Thank you.
So well explain as usual. Thanks!
I really enjoy the style you climbing was being filmed keep it up! :)
Thank you! Will do.
Really well done. Your videos keep improving.
Thank you!
This is really helpful! I'm going to try this one next time I go to Cliffs.
Awesome! just a heads up for beta at the top section some climbers find it easier to match the pinch hold before going left. Not sure which you would find easier but should try both ways =) good luck and hopefully you send!
Thank you! I'm a shorter climber so that def sounds like a good idea!
Super-useful yet at again.
Thank you!
@@rockentry loving your content. Just starting out myself and your tips have really helped.
Very helpful & detailed video! Thanks!
At my local gym, I'm barn-dooring while performing a similar move to your last one. I was smearing to try to prevent it, but running into the same problem you were. Looks like I need to try to smear higher up. I'll have to give that a go next time I'm at the gym! Thanks.
Give it a go and hope you send! good luck my friend.
Great tips!
Finally, something that looks like it's in my grade! Great video.
Great to know man! did this for you. My goal is to be able to help all level climbers not just climbers at my level, we will all get strong and progress together! =) Thank you.
Ya this video really does click in for me as a n00b. Note that I do also get a lot out of higher level climbing as well, so it's good to have content for many grades. I'll bet over time you'll be able to gather your content into grade categories. Keep rolling! I sincerely look forward to your new content. (fwiw: that egg breakfast sequence was a nice shoot and a great addition to your content. It sets a good tone.)
Thanks for the feedback! comments like this really helps me improve the content. Appreciate the time you take to help out. I really enjoyed shooting that sequence and will definitely include more in the future.
Whoa... you've got a year of back catalog. had no idea.
Your videos are really helpful
Good explanations good solutions.... you are a great climber.... 😄
Too little emphasis on the left/right foot switch in the begining which was the most important part/change of making that position work
Good one
Not sure if anyone would see this question after 4 years, but at 6:05 instead of trying to reach to the pink hold on the top with your right hand, why not use the one that you used at 4:33 with your left hand? that seems easier and may stop the swing too
Thank you!
Excellent production and commentary as usual! Where's the V8 followup though (with the secret beta)? :D
I've been climbing outdoors a lot lately and been hitting the gym to train. It will go down tho! patience is key hehehe Thank you!
For the top half of the route, the wide left hand bump looks like it puts you in an awkward position. Instead of taking the middle horizontal bar like an undercling I think you can hold it on top and sink below it so you can match with both hands and move to the arete hold easier and subsequently get to the final hold more statically. Keep up the good work, not enough climbing introspection videos on TH-cam :)
Oh yeah, What you just described is definitely possible. Like all climbs there are multiple ways of doing it but the reach I felt so much comfortable for the next move as a transition than the match. Thanks for your additional suggestion and for the support, you rock! =)
Very good details! „Smearing out“ out the end does not compensate your rotation totally, but it worked for you. Did you try to grip this long crimp (you did not touch this one with your right so far) at the end with your right hand and grab the top with the left. Maybe it’s difficult to stand in this position (drill your body to the right?) but it could be worth a try.
yeah i saw that huge pink hold on the right, thought that would be the way to go
You could possibly grab the long "pinch hold" with your right but the hold on top is more positive when using your right hand and leaning left, because of the type of hold. Also, you would swing regardless if i reach the large pinch hold with my right and I rather avoid that extra step and just reach for the top hold, hope that makes sense. Thank you!
I'm wondering about how height affects that climb. What if the climber is short enough that they can't reach that sloper that you hooked your left hand over in the middle of the climb?
Awesome tips man. Were you really struggling on that climb, or was it just for the camera? ;)
hehehe I'm sure you know I can send this no problem. So, What I do is climb this after my climbing session so my arms are pumped/weak and makes it harder to climb.. I want to include more beginner climbs as well as It's been requested a lot, hope it helps =)
So, at the end the different attempts are real and the slips are as well. Thank you!
Oh that's amazing dude!! Yes please keep these coming, V3-6 for us beginners.
For sure man, Just glad I could help out!
Super helpful. Where did you get that shirt?
why didn't you go for that pinch first before making move for the last hold? would that be better as you wouldn't swing as much and you could switch your body position?
Great video, does anyone know the what the music is though?
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Quick question, I took a 2 week break from climbing, and when I got back to the wall I felt super weak! Couldn't climb for more than 45 minutes and could barely send V2 despite being a consistent V4 climber. I'm used to climbing 3 times a week. Is this normal?
I think yes, i had the same thing.
This is definitely normal. Has happened to me multiple times. What I would suggest is go easy and work your way up to V4's again don't even bother climbing so much V4 when starting. Focus on climbing more V2's and 3's then when you feel ready move up to V4's.
Usually what some climbers do after their long break is expect to send their max grade and burn out fast.
Take your time and you will regain your strength and get back to your normal self. Good luck and climb hard my friend! thank you.
this is me right now because of the december holiday season -- went from 3 sessions a week to 1. to anyone reading... i suggest adding a dose of bodyweight or conventional weight training to help accelerate you back to form. seems obvious but it also helped my confidence.
What was that first song? I loved it
I would of taken the horizontal pinch like a left hand gaston and then matched it. I dont think you needed the swing there.
Yeah, possible but for me the left hand gaston on that pinch block is more uncomfortable same when it comes to matching it. I did both but at this point its just preference on the climber. Thank you!
What’s the name of the song at the beginning?
Not really hating cuz i enjoy your videos but that one looks kinda easy to climb