What torque wrench setting did you use to tighten the cylinder head bolt and if there is a angular tightening , i look to do the same opperation on my 1.6L i know it's 80 Nm (59 lbf ft) but i do not know if there is a tightening angular.
I have the service manual in front of me, for the 1.6L (at least) the tightening torque is 76-81 N.m (56-60 ft.lb). There's no tightening angular. The head bolts are not torque-to-yield.
You don't cover timing and how not to lose it. Last time we messed it up and had to tow it to the mechanic. My son's friend was doing it and when I came out they were pulling the timing belt and it was too late. From what I learned after you start with the front piston at tdc. The z on the right sprocket is at 12:00. There's a certain number of rubber teeth between the sprockets. Somehow we could not get it back. So now I have massive anxiety. I'm thinking about painting lines on the belt and sprockets at 12:00 and holding the belt tight with a bungee so it can't slip the bottom. There's a block with teeth on each side that locks the wheels and I've seen the 2 wrench and vise grip method. When you take it to the machine shop it's all apart anyhow. And turning the crank to clean the pistons changes it also. Seems nobody worries like later just get piston one tdc then get the cams right???,have the sprocket marks right and there's nothing to worry about. Help please! This is a 2002 nb with vvt on front left.
HEY Jeff. I didn't cover timing because i just removed the cylinder head in this video and like your saying that the machine shop will turn the cams anyway thats true but they give you the cylinder head back with the cam caps loose so all the valves are closed because the cams are not tight and not pushing on valve lifters so this way all the valves are safe and they won't bend if somebody install the cylinder head and the cams in the wrong position to the block (because if you do so you might end up having a piston all the way up and the valve for that specific cylinder open and boom the hit and you have a bent valve and here comes the important part that you can not turn the cams with the timing belt off because from what I understand from your comment with the Z at 12 that you dont have right timing , the timing marks for this 1.8l is you have to lign up the mark on your crank sprocket to the mark on block and the INTAKE CAM pulley ( I at 12) and the EXHAUSt CAM ( E at 12) if you have that your timing is set right but if you dont then your timing is wrong and be careful not to turn the engine to lign up marks with the timing belt off unless both cams are loose first so this way all valves are close and no possibility of bending stuff
@@johnnyyoussef3180 Thanks so much. It would be a great video of you did a How to restore lost timing. It doesn't seem easy even for a skilled mechanic.
These are non interference engines. The valves will never occupy the same space as the pitons. You can install it as wrong as you want and the worse that can happen is the car won’t start. Also at top dead center the cams are loaded on these engines meaning you can’t set them without having something holding them. The machine shop would’ve removed whatever you have holding them anyways so no need to show how to time on a head removal video. There are plenty of videos out there that will show you how to set the timing. It’s pretty easy actually.
@@Maxaker Just don't lose it. Put a zip tie around each sprocket and the chain. Then mark the lower spot with nail polish or paint and don't move anything once the chain or belt is off. There's a block that fits in between the sprockets that locks it up too.
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Where’s the 2nd part? 😅
No part 2 ??
Probably one of the most comprehensive engine breakdown videos for the NA8 engine that I've seen, but... is there a part 2?
Thanks men, I need to send mine to the shop because it has 4 broken spark plugs stuck in there.
What torque wrench setting did you use to tighten the cylinder head bolt and if there is a angular tightening , i look to do the same opperation on my
1.6L i know it's 80 Nm (59 lbf ft) but i do not know if there is a tightening angular.
I have the service manual in front of me, for the 1.6L (at least) the tightening torque is 76-81 N.m (56-60 ft.lb). There's no tightening angular. The head bolts are not torque-to-yield.
Hi, where online can I order a new cylinder engine head for NA 1.6? Ty
Can you tell what is the second connector under the intake hose from the front side ?
What happened with the second part?
Thinking the same thing...
I like your videos very nice 👍👍
the only thing he did not tell us is how much muscle you need to carry a cylinder head......
Great job🛠⚒🌹
You don't cover timing and how not to lose it.
Last time we messed it up and had to tow it to the mechanic.
My son's friend was doing it and when I came out they were pulling the timing belt and it was too late.
From what I learned after you start with the front piston at tdc. The z on the right sprocket is at 12:00. There's a certain number of rubber teeth between the sprockets.
Somehow we could not get it back.
So now I have massive anxiety.
I'm thinking about painting lines on the belt and sprockets at 12:00 and holding the belt tight with a bungee so it can't slip the bottom.
There's a block with teeth on each side that locks the wheels and I've seen the 2 wrench and vise grip method.
When you take it to the machine shop it's all apart anyhow. And turning the crank to clean the pistons changes it also.
Seems nobody worries like later just get piston one tdc then get the cams right???,have the sprocket marks right and there's nothing to worry about.
Help please!
This is a 2002 nb with vvt on front left.
HEY Jeff. I didn't cover timing because i just removed the cylinder head in this video and like your saying that the machine shop will turn the cams anyway thats true but they give you the cylinder head back with the cam caps loose so all the valves are closed because the cams are not tight and not pushing on valve lifters so this way all the valves are safe and they won't bend if somebody install the cylinder head and the cams in the wrong position to the block (because if you do so you might end up having a piston all the way up and the valve for that specific cylinder open and boom the hit and you have a bent valve
and here comes the important part that you can not turn the cams with the timing belt off because from what I understand from your comment with the Z at 12 that you dont have right timing , the timing marks for this 1.8l is you have to lign up the mark on your crank sprocket to the mark on block and the INTAKE CAM pulley ( I at 12) and the EXHAUSt CAM ( E at 12) if you have that your timing is set right but if you dont then your timing is wrong and be careful not to turn the engine to lign up marks with the timing belt off unless both cams are loose first so this way all valves are close and no possibility of bending stuff
@@johnnyyoussef3180 Thanks so much.
It would be a great video of you did a How to restore lost timing. It doesn't seem easy even for a skilled mechanic.
These are non interference engines. The valves will never occupy the same space as the pitons. You can install it as wrong as you want and the worse that can happen is the car won’t start. Also at top dead center the cams are loaded on these engines meaning you can’t set them without having something holding them. The machine shop would’ve removed whatever you have holding them anyways so no need to show how to time on a head removal video. There are plenty of videos out there that will show you how to set the timing. It’s pretty easy actually.
This makes me think I shouldn't try this.
@@Maxaker Just don't lose it.
Put a zip tie around each sprocket and the chain. Then mark the lower spot with nail polish or paint and don't move anything once the chain or belt is off.
There's a block that fits in between the sprockets that locks it up too.
🔥 🔥