I have watched enough of your videos so that as you were taking it apart I was thinking..."that is the AVR...those are the brushes". That was was fun to watch.
Jim I love how your so thoughtful n making your work look much better. I was able to fix my Coleman 1850 generator carb watching ur video. 27 years old n running great. Thanks 😊
I had a family member run the same engine out of oil. The motor and power head was the same. It was on a troy built generator. The connect rod knocked a hole in the block. I told him I could rebuild it. He laughed. I cleaned around the hole in the block well. Used a nut and bolt and two flat washers. I put the bolt throw from the inside using a washer on the inside and outside of the block. Put sealant used for engine assembly on the block and washers. Let it set for two days. Replaced the connecting rod, rings and seals and caskets. The crank was not damaged like the one in this video. Put it all back together. It cranked on the first pull. Broke the rings in and changed the oil. That was several years ago.I could not tell you how many hours that has been put on it since. It still runs great.
It´s always the same, but I learned to live with it. Just revived a vinate Hoover vacuum cleaner from 1967 that I got for free, but spent about 130 bucks on parts and dustbags. That´s the way it is, if you´re an enthusiast, that´s fine ;)
Great, and technical, video as usual. Very much appreciated. I've been confident in getting non-running or non-power producing generators to fix and sell SOLELY because of your videos and input. Couldn't do it without you and appreciate your help, time and commitment to putting out such quality content. Thank you!
I love watching your videos and the amount of information you share! All your videos are extremely informative and entertaining to watch, so thank you! I just wish I could find the quantity of machines that you find, but I’ll always keep looking!
I have seen that so many time James . The guy adds oil after it starts to knock , Then it explodes ! You got way over your $ worth in parts .. Great share ! ENJOYED..
It's amazing to the naked eye that every thing you measured almost looks good to the untrained eye......the devil is in the details of the measurements. Precision is key as something off by the width of a hair determines if the engine runs or not. As always great work. The end of the video sounded like a freight train gone wild🤣🤣
@@jcondon1 I am deep into the Jan 2, 2020 No power output video.... I am a Retired Navy Electronics guy and former Sony Tech... Loving this.... Good catch on the Diode wire wrong... Back to the video... :)
When you started finding all of that loose hardware I thought, oh someone put together two generators to make a good one, and then put the rest back together to sell off. Then when the rotor wouldn't budge I had to re-evaluate. Still fun to watch even without the payoff of putting it back together.
U.K. - If Briggs fitted a an oil warning cut off you would be out of a job James. Pretty disgusting considering the cost. Your videos are very professional and you standards are high. No doubt though one tiny error and the experts in the comments would have a field day. Come to think of it you pick up your own mistakes before they can. One only learns by making mistakes, you don't forget them. Thanks James, your much better than the crap on TV.
@@jcondon1 It's a shame whensuch a cheap item can save a generator. Maybe sales were low ? In the U.K. there are almost no home generators, we really do have an excellent power supply. I think we were down about 20 odd years ago for nearly an hour whilst they removed a 20 ton lorry from a local substation transformer. We do get the odd brownout maybe once a year. Unfortunately they closed the coal fired power stations before replacing them with anything that works 24/7 (windmills and solar). We get French anf Dutch electricity when times are hard in winter. I have one of those cheap China 800W gens and a German 2.8kw inverter - just in case. I hope I never need them but it's nice to know we can keep the 3 freezers, etc. running. Your videos have given me the confidence to have a go if I need to.
It kills me when I know I can repair something, but shipping and taxes are the final straw make it an upside down proposition. Beautiful weather at the end! Snowing like the dickens at the moment here in northern Vermont.
The generator that I got for free while working at the small engine place in town looks like that one, same build except its 2500 watts..the motor was shot so I cut part of the crankshaft off where it went into the generator it barely stuck out, so I drilled a 5/8 hole and welded in a piece of keyed shaft so that I could put a pulley on the front..an old 5 hp Briggs motor turns it easily.. These generator housings are a nightmare to get square and they tend to loosen the bolts if you're messing with them...I had the piece of shaft out but once I took it apart it was harder than you would think to get it lined up again...I'd suggest loctite and only tighten the bolts so much because it will bind up on you if you try to just keep torquing it down...if you look at an old cast iron Winco or like that you'll see the difference...I just hope I don't have to take it apart again, lol...that old '75 engine I have is better than that one....I started small engine fixing in 1969...the motors are a lot better from then, they don't wear out like this crap they make now
31:00 Cracked piston oh my! Ah well. New slug, new rod, throw some 20w50 in the sump, pop 'er back together, and she'll be good. 20w50 will make up for the tolerances in the crank journals no problem.
most pistons have horizontal lines on them , this allows oil to easily cling to the piston for lubrication purposes , as the piston wears it becomes smooth and this lessens its ability to circulate oil to the cylinder wall . at this point vertical lines start to appear on the piston and cylinder due to less lubrication . you really notice the horizontal lines on most OEM pistons and some quality aftermarket ones
james best thing to do is go by oil clearance on your rod,find min and max go by those numbers,and also when you use your mic,use the end thimble of the mic,it is more sensitive and give you better results. not sure of engine you have ,but you can buy a over size ring ,i buy them all the time for chainsaws
Hi James good to watch your video and I myself has had fun rebuilding a Honda copy GX420 {16 HP.} Its smoking and using oil have been told was rebuilt pulled it down and bore clean but piston had play. So removed rings from piston and put them in cylinder to measure the gap between the rings 9 mm. that not right check the piston 90 mm close rings gap with my fingers measure rings 82 mm. Some bright spark put GX 340 rings in the engine. Now just waiting on right rebuild kit.
When polishing the crank I found a flat shoe lace works better than a rope as the shoe lace spreads the pressure over a larger area and more evenly. Over the years I found the use of flex cylinder hones easier to use on small engines. If your working on something people own or trying to buy from them people lie to save face from there own stupidity.
Don't know where you live, James, but it looks way too cold for me. Used to live up north in PA but moved to GA about 16 years ago. Still get winter here but nothing like up north. Great video and thanks. Keep 'em coming.
When using your micrometer use the smaller knob on the end, if it's like other mics it has a built in clutch to make the same exact measurement every time as it was designed. Love the videos, I work on non running generators on my channel too but have not ventured into running but no power units yet. I am ready now!
You might want to make yourself a slide hammer for removing these rotors from the threaded end. That's how the professionals do it. Also, you might want to get yourself a butterfly impact gun-a good one, like the type SP Air makes (it's the same as the one Mac sells).
Love your videos. Very informative form my perspective. Obviously you have be doing this a long time. I would be nice if you documented some your torque specs as there seems to be a fair amount of misinformation floating around out tge digital universe.
That oil is super clean don't look like clea oil was added to dirty oil to me looks like a complete oil change and then the catastrophic problem happened @James Condon
It makes you wonder why Briggs (or someone else) does not sell an undersized connecting rod ! I like the way you used the rope to run the sandpaper/emery cloth on the crank. My "trick" To holding the flywheel while removing the nut is to wrap a piece of rope around the flywheel (never on the fins) at least twice, overlapping to "lock" the rope. I "anchor" the other end to something "solid" (like the generator frame). It will take 1/2 to 1 full turn of the nut before the rope tension enough before you can start to loosen the nut. OR ... Buy a better impact ! Like a Milwaukee 2554 3/8 stubby. 250 lb-ft of removal torque.
I know that bearings are sold for worn crankshaft journals. Connecting rods don't wear at the journal. His crankshaft would need some rework to make it useable again. I don't know how much that would cost. I know they can build up the journal and rework it back to factory specs. Don't know how much that would cost either.
@@danburch9989 These engines are CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP ! The rod is cast (?) aluminum and has NO BEARINGS (maybe a bronze bushing on the small end). While that crank still had some flaws in it. if it was polished down to say 1.245 and an appropriate rod was available, those remaining "flaws" would be acceptable. Just like the "scuffs" on the piston skirt. I believe that they do sell oversized piston and rings.
The rod is all aluminum. They do sell oversized piston and rings, but have not found an undersized rod. I did purchase a new crank at one point and was very disappointed. Would rather repair the old one, but cost is the real issues. Have 4 or 5 that need rework.
What if you were to make some kind of jig that fits over the stator and exerts pressure against the bell housing and end housing? That way you wouldn’t need to risk or break the end housing with the puller.
Ali I was thinking the same....technically he is correct, the piston is indeed a cylinder. Just not normal western nomenclature for that engine component.
so according to specs it is not alright to rebuild, but have you tried?if the build quality is below par anyway, i'd go ahead and try anyway: if the big end journal could be smoothened further, i'd take somen/same amount of material off the con-rod cap mating faces to close that up f.i. try and run it in, see how bad it is, change oil to thicker if it ate oil? i've seen old side valve b&s engines and wasn't impressed by them either.. throw away grade afaik
From what I have experienced and after watching your videos, it seems like the briggs are not really built to last. I have seen a lot more valve issues than anything else with them. Almost seems like those cheap Honda clones last longer in my opinion
In 2006 Briggs scaled back the quality in this engine. Casting not as good, no oil sensor, less support on the block and cheaper cam shaft. Too bad, because they are well designed and easy to work on. I think that was their way of competing with the clone engines. I agree about the clones, I rarely see one with an issue.
When you measure your crankshaft use a new rod and plastic gauge and get a true measurement. Did this for years with no problems. 1 - 1 1/2 thousands clearance
I passed up a used Subaru EX30 with a broken rod. I'm sure I could have rebuilt it, but it wasn't worth all the effort to me. I have too many projects going on right now.
My riding mower did the same 2 days ago it blew the rod as I was mowing no hole in the block but did smoke because it had bad oil rings and head gasket I’m sure is blown but still ran 18 hp engine gave up it did have a knock but I thought that was a upper issue because it sounded like if u put your ear up to the valve cover as it’s running you can hear it but turns out it was the rod this time I just hope the crank is still good after that I can afford the piston kit comes with the piston rod and rings but a crank i can’t afford with that I need to get a new oil pump and gaskets I think the oil pump gave out even thought it smoked and the cylinder bore looks in really good condition i think it didn’t get oil to the engine but Mabye it’s just me because there was oil in the valve cover and the cylinder bore had some but just blew as I was mowing and I had plenty of oil it was full
No oil. The Aluminum (connecting rod) melts at a much lower temp then the crankshaft. With no oil things heat up fast and friction takes care of the rest.
Hay so James I do have a question I have a o 1974 Onan 2.5 AJ generator and the problem is the threads got stripped in the inside of the carburetor that holds the bowl in place so one can I fix that and 2 if not what carburetor could I possibly get for it?
Do not have much Onan experience. But Onan and Walbro have excellent support and may still sell parts for that carburetor. If not, then you may need to tap the hole a little larger. Otherwise, you could try wrapping Teflon on the bolt. That will allow the treads left to bit a little better. Maybe just enough.
Ok thank you! Yeh I was originally going to put some JB weld on it but figured that might not work so I got a 5-16x24 tapper and I’m going to tap out the hole and put a coil in it to fix the threads but if that doesn’t work which it most likely will then I could try your idea of the Teflon on the bolt.
Most generator heads with an AVR only use one screw to hold the brushed. The other side has a metal tab on the end housing that holds the brushes in place.
I'm looking for a few parts for a storm responder, do you happen to sell some of your surplus parts? Your videos help me out so much! Looking for a carb spacer part# 694876 and the 4 studs for the valve cover. Trying to fix a free unit I found. It had a stuck exhaust valve and was taken apart when I picked it up it. Thanks
@@jcondon1 I've found thru years of searches that it makes a huge difference in how you word your search. I've learned to re-word a search and it oftentimes helps greatly in finding what I'm looking for. Plus, if I remember correctly, you are a software engineer? You have excellent patience great search skills. I always get a smile when I see another video post from you because I know I'm about to learn more!
Unless you can pedal at 3600 rpm, it would not work well. A brushed permanent magnet motor makes a good generator for a bike. A heathy person can sustain about 0.1 hp or about 54 watts.
I recently removed the rotor from the shaft on a Generac generator using water. Stood the engine up and filled the cavity to the top with water and screwed in a teflon tape covered bolt in the end. Hydraulic pressure popped it right off! I learned the procedure from the following video at 18:00 th-cam.com/video/s2c2SAfk2W8/w-d-xo.html
![[LIVE] นาทีนี้ต้องพี่ทนาย | ทนายแก้ว vs ทนายไพศาล | #คุยให้เด็กมันฟัง EP.47 (02/11/67)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HmquaO-PL_M/mqdefault.jpg)
I have watched enough of your videos so that as you were taking it apart I was thinking..."that is the AVR...those are the brushes". That was was fun to watch.
I don't even have a generator, but still enjoy your very educational videos.
Thanks
Jim I love how your so thoughtful n making your work look much better. I was able to fix my Coleman 1850 generator carb watching ur video. 27 years old n running great. Thanks 😊
Nice Frankengine! I chuckled as you showed us the trees swaying in the wind saying “here power lines!” 😳😆🤦♂️
I had a family member run the same engine out of oil. The motor and power head was the same. It was on a troy built generator. The connect rod knocked a hole in the block. I told him I could rebuild it. He laughed. I cleaned around the hole in the block well. Used a nut and bolt and two flat washers. I put the bolt throw from the inside using a washer on the inside and outside of the block. Put sealant used for engine assembly on the block and washers. Let it set for two days. Replaced the connecting rod, rings and seals and caskets. The crank was not damaged like the one in this video. Put it all back together. It cranked on the first pull. Broke the rings in and changed the oil. That was several years ago.I could not tell you how many hours that has been put on it since. It still runs great.
Nice recap at the end
Nice work cleaning the crank With the Muriatic acid coming out nice @18:54 @James Condon
Pretty soon we’re going to start calling You Mr Briggs!
No kidding. Just picked up another Briggs yesterday that smokes. Looks like another rebuild video coming.
@@jcondon1 hehe gotta get warmed up for that
@@jcondon1 Nice! And although I´m a Tecumseh guy, I´m looking forward to that.
I agree with Ken @Kens Small Engine Repair
It´s always the same, but I learned to live with it. Just revived a vinate Hoover vacuum cleaner from 1967 that I got for free, but spent about 130 bucks on parts and dustbags. That´s the way it is, if you´re an enthusiast, that´s fine ;)
Wow !..First crank very impressive ...nice job
Great, and technical, video as usual. Very much appreciated. I've been confident in getting non-running or non-power producing generators to fix and sell SOLELY because of your videos and input. Couldn't do it without you and appreciate your help, time and commitment to putting out such quality content. Thank you!
Thanks Eric
I love watching your videos and the amount of information you share! All your videos are extremely informative and entertaining to watch, so thank you! I just wish I could find the quantity of machines that you find, but I’ll always keep looking!
Thanks. It is hard finding them. But they keep coming.
Thank you for searching and saving these used parts an getting all of them back to work again.
I recently found a Husky frame for sale. So will be putting this back together soon.
I need to sit down and watch you ohm things out.. I'm good with my meter .
I learn something new from every video...great channel! Thanks, James.
Excellent video James, I can't stop watching. You have a new sub. 👍
james has some mad small engine skills !!! bravo
Good video James on this teardown
I have seen that so many time James . The guy adds oil after it starts to knock , Then it explodes ! You got way over your $ worth in parts .. Great share ! ENJOYED..
Thanks 👍
Dang that crank looks done for wow
I have been trying to explain to people how to properly polish a shaft. Great
It's amazing to the naked eye that every thing you measured almost looks good to the untrained eye......the devil is in the details of the measurements. Precision is key as something off by the width of a hair determines if the engine runs or not. As always great work. The end of the video sounded like a freight train gone wild🤣🤣
A block of wood and a hammer can help to loosen the end housing, James.
Always very informative, and great quality videos!
Thanks
The cleanest hands in the business!!!!
Always enjoy your videos James! Very informative, and you are very methodical!
Excellent Video... 2nd one I have watched. Learned another dozen things... Thanks :)
Glad you enjoyed it.
@@jcondon1 I am deep into the Jan 2, 2020 No power output video.... I am a Retired Navy Electronics guy and former Sony Tech... Loving this.... Good catch on the Diode wire wrong... Back to the video... :)
Wow at how windy it is at the end
Great work. Thanks for the video.
When you started finding all of that loose hardware I thought, oh someone put together two generators to make a good one, and then put the rest back together to sell off. Then when the rotor wouldn't budge I had to re-evaluate. Still fun to watch even without the payoff of putting it back together.
I think someone started to take it apart and stopped at the stator when it would not come off.
@@jcondon1 completely agree. They should have watched your channel.
purrs like a kitten great job !
Thanks for the video James.
hi james i can see you have done this many times you always make it look easy mate great video
Thanks. I know these Briggs well.
U.K. - If Briggs fitted a an oil warning cut off you would be out of a job James. Pretty disgusting considering the cost. Your videos are very professional and you standards are high. No doubt though one tiny error and the experts in the comments would have a field day. Come to think of it you pick up your own mistakes before they can. One only learns by making mistakes, you don't forget them. Thanks James, your much better than the crap on TV.
Thanks. They had oil sensors up until 2006. Then for some reason they omitted them from 2006-2011. Just picked up another today that ran out of oil...
@@jcondon1
It's a shame whensuch a cheap item can save a generator. Maybe sales were low ?
In the U.K. there are almost no home generators, we really do have an excellent power supply. I think we were down about 20 odd years ago for nearly an hour whilst they removed a 20 ton lorry from a local substation transformer. We do get the odd brownout maybe once a year. Unfortunately they closed the coal fired power stations before replacing them with anything that works 24/7 (windmills and solar). We get French anf Dutch electricity when times are hard in winter. I have one of those cheap China 800W gens and a German 2.8kw inverter - just in case. I hope I never need them but it's nice to know we can keep the 3 freezers, etc. running. Your videos have given me the confidence to have a go if I need to.
Outstanding work as usual.
It kills me when I know I can repair something, but shipping and taxes are the final straw make it an upside down proposition. Beautiful weather at the end! Snowing like the dickens at the moment here in northern Vermont.
I hear you on that. It is a throw away world.
Just sell it for a couple bucks and let someone else play with it.
@@FishFind3000 I've done that more than once, sadly.
The generator that I got for free while working at the small engine place in town looks like that one, same build except its 2500 watts..the motor was shot so I cut part of the crankshaft off where it went into the generator it barely stuck out, so I drilled a 5/8 hole and welded in a piece of keyed shaft so that I could put a pulley on the front..an old 5 hp Briggs motor turns it easily..
These generator housings are a nightmare to get square and they tend to loosen the bolts if you're messing with them...I had the piece of shaft out but once I took it apart it was harder than you would think to get it lined up again...I'd suggest loctite and only tighten the bolts so much because it will bind up on you if you try to just keep torquing it down...if you look at an old cast iron Winco or like that you'll see the difference...I just hope I don't have to take it apart again, lol...that old '75 engine I have is better than that one....I started small engine fixing in 1969...the motors are a lot better from then, they don't wear out like this crap they make now
31:00 Cracked piston oh my! Ah well. New slug, new rod, throw some 20w50 in the sump, pop 'er back together, and she'll be good. 20w50 will make up for the tolerances in the crank journals no problem.
Agreed.
most pistons have horizontal lines on them , this allows oil to easily cling to the piston for lubrication purposes , as the piston wears it becomes smooth and this lessens its ability to circulate oil to the cylinder wall .
at this point vertical lines start to appear on the piston and cylinder due to less lubrication .
you really notice the horizontal lines on most OEM pistons and some quality aftermarket ones
Smart logic Doc
james best thing to do is go by oil clearance on your rod,find min and max go by those numbers,and also when you use your mic,use the end thimble of the mic,it is more sensitive and give you better results.
not sure of engine you have ,but you can buy a over size ring ,i buy them all the time for chainsaws
Hi James good to watch your video and I myself has had fun rebuilding a Honda copy GX420 {16 HP.} Its smoking and using oil have been told was rebuilt pulled it down and bore clean but piston had play. So removed rings from piston and put them in cylinder to measure the gap between the rings 9 mm.
that not right check the piston 90 mm close rings gap with my fingers measure rings 82 mm. Some bright spark put GX 340 rings in the engine. Now just waiting on right rebuild kit.
Lol nice, their loss your gain.
Thanks again
Ratchet straps to hold a fly wheel, great idea.
Love the videos ! I have learned a lot as you make it look easy, Thanks
It is amazing how careful and meticulous you are
Blown piston skirt, destroyed rod, and the crank journal is wiped out. New piston, rod, and rotating assembly for sure!
Great education, thanks.
Had a similar thing, where the customer filled it with oil after it seized and was trying to get it replaced under guarantee.
When polishing the crank I found a flat shoe lace works better than a rope as the shoe lace spreads the pressure over a larger area and more evenly. Over the years I found the use of flex cylinder hones easier to use on small engines. If your working on something people own or trying to buy from them people lie to save face from there own stupidity.
Have heard the same about the shoe lace. Will have to pick some up.
That plus they want you to not know the real truth which would make there junk product worth nothing.
Don't know where you live, James, but it looks way too cold for me. Used to live up north in PA but moved to GA about 16 years ago. Still get winter here but nothing like up north. Great video and thanks. Keep 'em coming.
I am in NY. Definitely hard to go in the garage during the winter. Not heated very well. Thankfully things are starting to warm up.
Always interesting James thanks for sharing stay safe 🦘🇦🇺👍
When using your micrometer use the smaller knob on the end, if it's like other mics it has a built in clutch to make the same exact measurement every time as it was designed. Love the videos, I work on non running generators on my channel too but have not ventured into running but no power units yet. I am ready now!
Thanks for sharing. 😎👌🏼
You can use a suction cup to pull the piston if you want to
You might want to make yourself a slide hammer for removing these rotors from the threaded end. That's how the professionals do it.
Also, you might want to get yourself a butterfly impact gun-a good one, like the type SP Air makes (it's the same as the one Mac sells).
The motor on EBay now is $325+50. He must watched your Video. As always good video.
It was only at that low price fir a few days. After it went back up the seller sent me a discount offer fir $175. A good deal.
We had strong winds pass couple days in West Michigan
Love your videos. Very informative form my perspective. Obviously you have be doing this a long time. I would be nice if you documented some your torque specs as there seems to be a fair amount of misinformation floating around out tge digital universe.
Like all ways very good video thank you 👍🇬🇧
That oil looked brand new. It’s shocking how many generators you come up with. There aren’t many around here for sale working or otherwise.
Good Things happen to those who wait..
That oil is super clean don't look like clea oil was added to dirty oil to me looks like a complete oil change and then the catastrophic problem happened @James Condon
Surprised the end housing didn't crack on how tight it was
Sometimes it's just good for parts. This one is only for parts and not too many of them.
It makes you wonder why Briggs (or someone else) does not sell an undersized connecting rod !
I like the way you used the rope to run the sandpaper/emery cloth on the crank. My "trick" To holding the flywheel while removing the nut is to wrap a piece of rope around the flywheel (never on the fins) at least twice, overlapping to "lock" the rope. I "anchor" the other end to something "solid" (like the generator frame). It will take 1/2 to 1 full turn of the nut before the rope tension enough before you can start to loosen the nut. OR ...
Buy a better impact ! Like a Milwaukee 2554 3/8 stubby. 250 lb-ft of removal torque.
I know that bearings are sold for worn crankshaft journals. Connecting rods don't wear at the journal. His crankshaft would need some rework to make it useable again. I don't know how much that would cost. I know they can build up the journal and rework it back to factory specs. Don't know how much that would cost either.
@@danburch9989 These engines are CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP ! The rod is cast (?) aluminum and has NO BEARINGS (maybe a bronze bushing on the small end). While that crank still had some flaws in it. if it was polished down to say 1.245 and an appropriate rod was available, those remaining "flaws" would be acceptable. Just like the "scuffs" on the piston skirt.
I believe that they do sell oversized piston and rings.
The rod is all aluminum. They do sell oversized piston and rings, but have not found an undersized rod. I did purchase a new crank at one point and was very disappointed. Would rather repair the old one, but cost is the real issues. Have 4 or 5 that need rework.
You could build a mini bike or something to put it on we would watch that too
You correctly surmised the probable chain of events. Engines throw rods when not properly lubricated. That oil is waaaay too clean.
you can buy long or short blocks on smallenginesforless ebay stores.
The toasted engine blocks you should send to bigstacked so he can make a video of him melting it down into something cool.
1/2 inch cordless impact will work. Or air impact.
Just got a Ryobi P262. A little overkill, bit takes them right off.
What if you were to make some kind of jig that fits over the stator and exerts pressure against the bell housing and end housing? That way you wouldn’t need to risk or break the end housing with the puller.
That would definitely be an improvement.
Even we in Kuwait sometimes call it cylinder
Ali I was thinking the same....technically he is correct, the piston is indeed a cylinder. Just not normal western nomenclature for that engine component.
@@gregorypeterschmidt620 👍
so according to specs it is not alright to rebuild, but have you tried?if the build quality is below par anyway, i'd go ahead and try anyway: if the big end journal could be smoothened further, i'd take somen/same amount of material off the con-rod cap mating faces to close that up f.i. try and run it in, see how bad it is, change oil to thicker if it ate oil? i've seen old side valve b&s engines and wasn't impressed by them either.. throw away grade afaik
they can also hook you up with the low oil shut down parts just call them
From what I have experienced and after watching your videos, it seems like the briggs are not really built to last. I have seen a lot more valve issues than anything else with them. Almost seems like those cheap Honda clones last longer in my opinion
In 2006 Briggs scaled back the quality in this engine. Casting not as good, no oil sensor, less support on the block and cheaper cam shaft. Too bad, because they are well designed and easy to work on. I think that was their way of competing with the clone engines. I agree about the clones, I rarely see one with an issue.
What’s the deal with these engines running out of oil?
When you measure your crankshaft use a new rod and plastic gauge and get a true measurement. Did this for years with no problems. 1 - 1 1/2 thousands clearance
Yes. I checked this one. It was at 1.5 thousands
FYI WD49 is not a lubricant it is a penetrant. PB Blaster etc.. are lubricants
I passed up a used Subaru EX30 with a broken rod. I'm sure I could have rebuilt it, but it wasn't worth all the effort to me. I have too many projects going on right now.
Just buy the vanguard store it until you can get the missing stuff cheaper or better yet free.
Hello James do you get anything other than generators, lawn mowers, weed eaters?
at 31:05 how did you know that engine would fit? did that vanguard engine come with the same generator as the husky briggs
My riding mower did the same 2 days ago it blew the rod as I was mowing no hole in the block but did smoke because it had bad oil rings and head gasket I’m sure is blown but still ran 18 hp engine gave up it did have a knock but I thought that was a upper issue because it sounded like if u put your ear up to the valve cover as it’s running you can hear it but turns out it was the rod this time I just hope the crank is still good after that I can afford the piston kit comes with the piston rod and rings but a crank i can’t afford with that I need to get a new oil pump and gaskets I think the oil pump gave out even thought it smoked and the cylinder bore looks in really good condition i think it didn’t get oil to the engine but Mabye it’s just me because there was oil in the valve cover and the cylinder bore had some but just blew as I was mowing and I had plenty of oil it was full
Wow at how loose all the bolts are especially all the power head bolts 🤔
Bought a Champion 10kw generator, the 1 feature wish it had was a fuel gauge. Is there any way to add a fuel gauge to the tank?
What would make a solid piece of metal ( Connecting rod ) break like that ?
No oil. The Aluminum (connecting rod) melts at a much lower temp then the crankshaft. With no oil things heat up fast and friction takes care of the rest.
What a great place, where is this place?
I don't know how you find them cheap. Seems even junk around here go for $300
Same where I live.
I guess since he’s in the hurricane area everyone and their brother has a generator so he’s in a saturated market.
Hay so James I do have a question I have a o 1974 Onan 2.5 AJ generator and the problem is the threads got stripped in the inside of the carburetor that holds the bowl in place so one can I fix that and 2 if not what carburetor could I possibly get for it?
Also the carburetor name is a 188 LMG walbro
Do not have much Onan experience. But Onan and Walbro have excellent support and may still sell parts for that carburetor. If not, then you may need to tap the hole a little larger. Otherwise, you could try wrapping Teflon on the bolt. That will allow the treads left to bit a little better. Maybe just enough.
Ok thank you! Yeh I was originally going to put some JB weld on it but figured that might not work so I got a 5-16x24 tapper and I’m going to tap out the hole and put a coil in it to fix the threads but if that doesn’t work which it most likely will then I could try your idea of the Teflon on the bolt.
I see you work on a lot of 5000 watt i don't see vary many 12k Is the bigger ones better life?
Usually 5000-1000 watt. Any larger and need a fork lift.
first thing that i noticed was that one of the brush screws was missing--figured someone was in there and lost the screw?
Most generator heads with an AVR only use one screw to hold the brushed. The other side has a metal tab on the end housing that holds the brushes in place.
I'm looking for a few parts for a storm responder, do you happen to sell some of your surplus parts? Your videos help me out so much! Looking for a carb spacer part# 694876 and the 4 studs for the valve cover. Trying to fix a free unit I found. It had a stuck exhaust valve and was taken apart when I picked it up it. Thanks
I have spare spacer, probably the valve cover bolts (but there are different threads on some). Also have extra heads for the 10hp 210000 series.
How or where did you learn about small engines? Did you learn the hard way by doing & making mistakes, or did you have technical training?
No technical training, unless you count the 1000's of hours of TH-cam videos I have watch on the topic.
@@jcondon1 Your self training has served you well. Those lessons learned the hard way are not soon forgotten. Congratulations on training yourself.
@@jcondon1 I've found thru years of searches that it makes a huge difference in how you word your search. I've learned to re-word a search and it oftentimes helps greatly in finding what I'm looking for. Plus, if I remember correctly, you are a software engineer? You have excellent patience great search skills. I always get a smile when I see another video post from you because I know I'm about to learn more!
Although I enjoy watching your videos very much, it just disturbs me so much to see how people abuse their equipment.
Could I use the generator head be used with a bicycle to make electricity?
Unless you can pedal at 3600 rpm, it would not work well. A brushed permanent magnet motor makes a good generator for a bike. A heathy person can sustain about 0.1 hp or about 54 watts.
I’d find a similar generator that was thrown to the curb and use that engine.
Just imagine if those trees had leaves on them.
I know. It would have helped sales.
On the crankshaft you can put a light layer of weld on it and sand and polish it and bring it back in speck
I recently removed the rotor from the shaft on a Generac generator using water. Stood the engine up and filled the cavity to the top with water and screwed in a teflon tape covered bolt in the end. Hydraulic pressure popped it right off! I learned the procedure from the following video at 18:00
th-cam.com/video/s2c2SAfk2W8/w-d-xo.html