A Secure CNC Mounting Technique - NO DOUBLE SIDED TAPE!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มี.ค. 2016
- I discovered a better way to mount a workpiece to the spoilboard of my CNC through Master Luthier Ben Crowe of Crimson Custom Guitars.
Crimson Guitars TH-cam Channel:
/ @crimsoncustomguitars
Crimson Guitars on the web:
crimsonguitars.com/
Products used in this video:
Fast Cap 2P10 Medium Glue: amzn.to/2kOevsY
Fast Cap 2P10 Activator: amzn.to/2ljAHIu
3M Blue Painter's Tape: amzn.to/2ljJ5HN
Freud 1.25" Straight Mortising Bit: amzn.to/2m88VAk
Bosch .25" 2 Flute Downcut Spiral Bit: amzn.to/2mWSp62
Porter Cable 890 Router Motor: amzn.to/2maZnnO
Please excuse the poor video and audio quality. In one section, the mic sounds like it's in a tin can, and it's very quiet. It's also now in the trash.
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Music: Think Tank by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Artist: audionautix.com/ - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Why is this differentbthan doubld sided tape?....your basically making double sided tape arent you?
As I've said many times before, and as I said in the video a couple of times, it's tape I can control. For instance, I can burnish the masking tape onto BOTH the material and the spoilboard so it doesn't come loose, no matter how hot it is in the shop. You can only burnish double-sided tape onto one or the other - not both. It also doesn't gum up the tip of the bit or end mill if I cut through it like double-sided tape does. I've not bought double-sided tape since I started using this method. It's never failed me. Not once. Try it yourself and see...
Thank you..ill try it one day...it has its uses for sure..tape is not cheap and neither is super glue....but its a great idea for special setups.....when necessary
Most folks are skeptical about it until they try it. It does work. I was surprised to see that aluminum machining video. I would have thought that the aluminum would heat up enough that the adhesive on the tape would fail. It worked though.
This method is way more forgiving when small chips left under the work piece, if you're just cutting contours. Also, masking tape is much easier to peel off both from your workpiece and spoil board. Most double sided tapes tend to rip off in pieces and piss me off.
Pro: you can easily remove adhesive after a cut as compare to double sided tape. Con: It is 10 times more expensive in UK than double sided tape
Great to hear people actually giving credit for stuff like this. I own a Crimson Guitar made by Ben and his channel has taught me some great tips.
Genius...and I'm doing this today! I've been so limited in the stock size I've been using because I've been using clamps to the top of my stock. Thank you so much! Simplicity at its finest!!
Thanks for this Mark. I saw you vid the other day and tried it since holding thin brass sheet and laminate for engraving on an old school pantograph machine. Fantastic results, quick, easy and secure. This is now my go to technique.
Mark, This was the greatest find yet. I now have the ability to hold scraps that are just a little bigger than the part I am cutting. It works perfact.
Really enjoy your video's. Thanks so much.
This tape and CA glue technique was one of the first things I learned from someone's TH-cam video when I started learning CNC a few month ago. Works great. I've used the 2P10 adhesive for years. The Fastcap company that makes it is right here in Ferndale, WA.
Excellent. Used this method to temporarily fit an extension table to my bandsaw - worked a treat!
Great video Mark! I found this same tip from the same luthier some time ago. I really questioned whether it would really work or not. So I used the technique when hand routing some guitar parts. It's amazing how well it worked! When I recently go into CNC I remembered the tip and tried it out. It works great locking material to the spoil board.
I tried the tape and CA glue and it works as you said it would. Thanks for another great idea.
Wow! We have been looking for a better way and can't wait to try this one! Thanks!
Awesome!!! Thank you for sharing. I'm definitely going to use that idea.
Mark, thanks for sharing, it works perfect, haven't had a piece come free since watching your video..
A came across this video and although i dont own a cnc anymore due to space i found this very informative i used to use double sided tape. But what has got my attention is your cnc, ive a little dream to build my own so will be watching more from your build. Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much! The CNC in this video is my old Shoestring Budget CNC that I built from plans that are no longer available. I now have a much larger Gatton CNC. There was nothing wrong with the old CNC - I just needed more cutting capacity.
Great advice. I am a woodworker for about 40 years. I learned of this about 3 years ago, and since learning, it has save a LOT of frustration in terms of damaged finishes, tape backing and glue issues and other problems caused by double-sided stick tape. The method you outlined is SO much better... thanks for sharing thee wisdom!
Thank you Andrew! I've been using this method for about 4 years, and it's never failed me yet.
We've been doing this for many years in the sign business but with application tape for applying vinyl graphics.
When CNC routers appeared we used the tape on the bottom of a substrate covering the entire bottom side to eliminate the need for tabs. The tape would hold any loose pieces together until the end of the job. Depending how accurate your CNC router is you can cut all the way through the substrate without cutting the tape and just pull the pieces apart without having to file off those pesky tabs.
This works so well! You are my new favorite person. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. I have a use for this technique and I believe it will work just fine.
I am most definitely going to try this when I get back to the shop tomorrow!!!!!
Thanks for sharing this helpful tip.
I did watch this video the whole way through. Great tip and I am interested in this technique. Great Idea.
I've also seen this before on Crimson Guitars. Your method on the CNC is great! Anything that can reduce or remove tabs is very worthwhile! Thanks for sharing!
+Dustin Penner Thanks, Dustin!
I'm always looking for new ways to hold down especially small pieces and this seems like a great idea. Thanks Greg!
Hope it helps you out. Thanks for watching!
Mark keep posting tips MAN!!! Thank you
Excellent presentation and technique.
Is a perfect solution and very strong. Thanks a lot, from Argentina.
I gave it a try today on a project and it worked awesome!!! I will spread the word on this great replacment for double sided tape on a cnc router.
Glad it helped you out!
Thanks for the quick/detailed response. There's another option I plan to try (moderate price, but eliminates "crazy-glue"/accelerant route, and meant for woodworkers. Its called XFasten Double Sided Woodworking Tape (paper). Will let you know results.
Used it.
Not nearly as good as 2p10 and blue tape.
I was struggling hold in a plastic part on my CNC mill after I saw your video I tried it works great thank you for sharing
Glad it helped you out!
Very clever idea.Thank you
Thanks Mark! Great tip exactly in time for a project with 3mm plywood I'm doing now. The stuff is constantly pulled up by the router bit, double sided tape is just not working enough. Even covered the complete sheet with it and it came off. Tomorrow morning first thing to try! Excellent tip!
So.... did it work then?
Love it, Mark! Thanks for making the video!
+Dave Van Antwerp Thanks for watching and commenting, Dave!
Thanks buddy. It's a great big useful idea.
Thanks Mark, that was a game changer for me. I cut through my 30th hold down clamp the other day, and ruined another piece of wood, and finally got fed up with it. I had watched this video months ago, but never tried it. I am now hooked. As always, great video!!
Thank you, Terry! It's never failed me yet!
Looks pretty cool Mark...I will have to try it!
I'm going to try this!
Thanks Much!
Did a test cut on some di-bond letters with some 'ol HF CA glue, no accelerant, worked great! Thanks for the great tip and this will be my method from now on.
Thanks!!!!!
OMG PERFECT, I REALLY NEEDED THIS
I tried this; it worked so much better than I expected, and so much better than the double sided tape I had been using. Cheaper too.
Just tried this yesterday and I was blown away! This is going to save me SOO much time from cleaning up the mess of double sided tape.
Hope it helps you out! Since trying this method myself, I haven't bought double-sided tape in close to two years.
What I use to do was take the material your gonna use and if it already has paper on both sides, say a 24x24 piece of plastic I would get a 24 inch roll of masking like what you use in a sign shop to put over vinyl.
So take the 24 in masking and cover the paper on one side of the plastic and smooth it down good. Then get a piece of Coraplast ( a yard sign material with the flutes going thru it, cut it to say alittle bigger then the 24x24. And get an adhesive spray and spray the masking tape side coat it good but not crazy then the waste material
(Coraplast) and do the same thing stick them together when it’s ready a little tacky not wet. Now all ya have to do is clamp the corners to your table or screw it down. If you have a vacuum table which is the best and works awesome that way. But will work well whichever way you do it. And if it’s gotta be a piece with real clean edges ya can run like a .015 around the piece then recut it with the right size u need. And it will clean it out and give u a nice clean edge
Wow great tip I hope I remember it when I get my cnc machine in a couple of months. Jason
that's an AWESOME rig! thanks for the tape tips. gonna try that out.carpet tape certainly didn't work for me.
Tested and approved, Mark! Fantastic solution for thin material. Thanks again for sharing.
Thanks very much, Paul! I find it especially helpful on tiny parts and very thin stock. I'm getting ready to cut a project on 3/16" material that would be difficult to clamp down, and this is the mounting method I'm going to use.
Glad you found it helpful!
Exactly! I used it on my project with 3mm ply (2/16"?) with a lot of cutting into the material, making it weak and easy to deform. Double sided was failing all the time, this not. It worked like a champ and from now on I will stick with this method. Very easy to use and to remove, no problem.
Excelente idea. Thanks!
Great video - excellent hold down method for small wooden parts - using it to make pickup rings!
Between you, me, and the fly on the wall, that's what I was cutting in the video - pickup trim rings for a friend.
Thanks!
I like it! No more prying 2 sided tape off the spoil board. Thumbs up and thanks for sharing!
Hopes it helps you out! Thanks for watching!
Darned good idea. Thanks. I'll use it.
I've been doing this for years. Great vid!
Thanks! Hope it helps some folks out!
I use a similar concept but slightly different materials. Application tape(type used by sign writing companies) applied to both the table and the material as you have done, I then apply spray adhesive to both surfaces.. Stick down. Good thing about application tape is that it comes in many wider widths than masking tape. The roll i'm using now is 600mm wide.
Neat method Mark. I watch Ben's videos, but must have missed that one.
+John Heisz Thanks for watching, John! I especially don't like tabs on end grain. No matter how gently I try to sand them off, I wind up burning it. Not any more.
That's a great technique.
Nice video and mounting method Mark. I will have to give that a shot!
+Lance Radue Thank you!
Great method, good hombre.
Try this process out today I wished I would have tried it sooner . Great tip as usual Mark
Thank you, Norm! It's never failed me yet.
Muy buen trabajo. saludos de ARGENTINA
Unless you’ve tried this don’t knock it! It works exactly like he says, you can also use painters tape and loctite superglue. I have taken .250 cuts at 80% engagement and never had my work move. Excellent advice by the way. And you separate by using a putty knife or scraper between the tape.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for this video. Will have to give it a try. I would prefer something faster... like double sided _masking_ tape, but the super glue will fill any minuscule warps or curls that would prevent any simple double sided tape from bonding properly to both pieces. Which explains why you're getting better adhesion with a temporary tape than you did with a permanent one. Thanks again for this trick.
Someone needs to trademark that ending: "It just works, and that's good enough for me!"
And thanks for the great tip, looking forward to trying this out.
Thanks! It's still true, too. It's never failed me yet.
Ben from Crimson is great. I use this trick. It is fantastic. So much better than double sided tape!
PREACH!
I have sooooo got to go try that...thanks, Mark..!!
It works for me.
Cool idea! I've thought about trying something similar when cutting acrylic with it's protective sheet on it. Leave the film or sheet on, glue it to the tapped spoil board. I didn't think to add the tape to the spoilboard. I'll have to try it out now :)
+Impyman18 Hope it helps you out. Thanks for watching!
Will certainly give this a try! I’m definitely more into clamps but as you know they’re not always applicable!
It's especially good for odd shapes that fall just out of a clamp's reach, and thin materials. Especially in cases where a clamp can cause a piece of thinner material to bow upward in the center.
I would really like to see you pursue your idea. I also live in the pacific time zone. I would like to learn more on 3d carvings and vcarve. I like evenings the best but I understand about the viewers in eastern time zone. I also like sign making. Hope this helps your decision. Thanks Phil
great video thanks for you
Hi Mark thanks for the tip.
I've been using taping strategies for over 5 years now.
I also use Suretape, but I just wanted to mention that the Suretape I use has a blue separation film, where as what you showed has a white film.
The type I use measures about .01 thick, and this allows me to calculate my Z axis .005 over and not hit the spoil board.
Again thanks for the tip, but I just couldn't help but wonder if there are 2 different thicknesses of Suretape out there!
I've also come up with a way to use my lathe, and an x-acto knife to cut those 2 inch wide roles down to the desired width needed, and I pay about $9 a roll for this tape. It was about $6 when I started buying it :(
Later
Don
I've found you can do the same thing using masking tape but in a pinch, without the CA glue or hardener still use double sided tape sandwiched between the masking tape. Makes it just as easy to remove the tape.
Cheaper. Ability to use the entire stock. No tabs.
That's beautiful. Thank you sir.
I like the thickness of 3m adhesive double sided tape. It allows me to cut without cutting into my aluminum bed.
Very good idea! Though CA glue is more expensive here in my country, and the double sided tape I can get works very well. But anyway I'll give it a try.
Excellent tip there, Mark. I'm going to start using this method instead of the double sided tape. I like your hat. Also enjoy your contributions to Dave's CNC channel. Just sub'd to your channel. Cheers. Larry B from Ontario Canada.
Thanks for watching, Larry! I hope it helps you out!
Thanks. Clever tip.
Nice! I like your cnc!
+Cactus! workshop Thanks! Check with Dave Gatton for plans to a CNC like mine. He's the person I got my plans from.
This Sir is a game changer!
It is. I use it almost exclusively.
For me - nothing ever seems to be easy. But, this is so easy and it works so well I cannot believe it. When I cut my first piece using this method, I just knew the wood would start moving and come off. NO! It held in place even when I cut thru a 1/2 inch piece of wood. Thanks for the information about this technique.
I've been using this method for a couple of years now, and it's never failed me. Not once. Hope it helps you out!
I attach router templates to guitar bodies this way, works very well and is way easier to remove than double stick tape!
I thought this was a joke so I tried an experiment. I used wood glue and attached a scrape piece to my spoil board using the masking tape late at night. I got up the next morning and HOLY COW!! it worked. I cut a few things on the scrap piece and it worked great. Clean up was a breeze! Thanks for the tip.
Like I tell folks - it's easy to pull a layer of tape off of the roll, but it's durned near impossible to push a layer off from the side. Glad to hear it worked out for you. I've never used plain wood glue before, so I don't know how well I'd trust it. Some masking tapes have a resinous coating on it, so I'd be aware that it might not stick very well and take it easy. I get 2P10 and accelerator at my local hardwood supplier and save shipping costs and wait time. It works very well.
Gonna try it...appreciate the video.
You'll like it. It's never failed me yet.
Great tip! It works!
Glad you found it useful. I use it almost exclusively.
Want to go try this on a 1mm engraving board which tends to lift off some areas due to it being so light and thus has a very uneven engraving dept or even going though the board at some places. Hope it works
Hi, I'm going to build a mpcnc this trick looks handy! Thank you for sharing. Greatings from Italy. Luca
Thanks for checking it out! I've been using this method for years, and it hasn't failed me yet. Good luck on your build!
Mark Lindsay CNC My pleasure, just sub. Thank you 👉🏻
Thank you!
I've been using this method with great results. Plastics and fiberglass are perfectly held.
It works without accelerator, and parts are firm within 3-5 seconds.
Just enough time to press, spread glue with a twist/slide motion, then orient.
The benefit is eliminating carpet tape, which gums up the bit and my part, requiring chemicals to clean. The frog tape fouls the part with glue as well but easier to clean.
When I cut aluminum, the mist coolant seeps under material and will release within a few minutes, which can be bad on long cuts or arrays of small parts. I watch the time, the coolant flow and also clamp mechanically at times.
Thanks for that, David! I've not tried it on metals yet, but I use this method almost exclusively to either hold the material to the spoilboard, or to keep smaller parts fastened to the spoilboard without needing to add tabs to the profile cut.
Glad to hear that it helped you out. Thanks for watching!
4 or more drops of super glue have been very handy in our workflow, especially if your table is not slotted/prepared, mstock is ineven, etc.
Thank you for this! I'm a couple weeks into learning a cnc setup. I've been successfully cutting various thicknesses of PVC and Acryllic. However I've been struggling to get thin sheets of styrene to cut effectively. Saw this video yesterday, decided to try it today. Succeeded in engraving then cutting .028 thick styrene; the same cut failed miserably for me yesterday using a different mounting method!
Forgot to mention: NO TABS. I can keep a nice clean cutline and not have to trim up tabs later either!
That's one of the big benefits - no tabs. It's not the perfect mounting solution, but it beats the heck out of running into clamps, sanding tabs, and hoping you got a screw far enough back from the outside profile you're getting ready to cut. It's never failed me yet!
great job it is what i have been looking for for aircraft aluminum to engrave . it's very thin. also had to tweak waste board.
I've never tried it on thin metals (or any other metals, if I'm honest.) I don't know if heat would cause the tape to let go, or if heat is even a concern for you. It might be something to watch out for, though.
How did you do the profile cutout whereby it reversed direction? Also you had some odd ball size end mills. I have been looking for endmills or drill bits to use for drilling holes. Any sources?
nice share, interesting method! tfs!
Nice idea, what kind of glue is it? In the uk is this glue very expensive, over 50£ a 10 Oz bottle.
Thanks for the informations, I'm very new at this and all help is appreciated. I've found hot glue works good for me but I would have to use tabs for through cuts.
Thanks for checking out the video! I don't know if there's any one mounting method that is perfect for every situation. I use clamps, blocks and wedges, good old wood screws - whatever works. I do like to have options. All I know is that the tape and CA glue method has never failed me. I buy tape and CA glue for other uses anyway, so basically this has saved me the expense of buying double-sided tape, which I don't use for anything else.
Nice video Mark. Cool idea! That's a pretty cool CNC by the way. :-)
+Dave Gatton Thanks Dave. If you're interested in a CNC like mine, I know a guy who offers free plans. I can hook you right up...
+Mark Lindsay I would be interested if you can extend that offer to me as well.
Jerry Whidby That guy is Dave Gatton - I was yanking his leg. Check out his TH-cam channel for a link to his website. You can request the plans from him there.
I use hot glue around the edges. Seems to work pretty good. I like your solution for cutting out parts with no tab though.
Thank you for sharing. This will prove useful in both my laser and my mini-router.
--Max McGrumpy
3D Printer Cult
Great idea, thanks. Was thinking of going with vacuum table, will go with this instead,
Thanks for watching, Harry. You might want to keep looking into a vacuum table. I never intended this method to be a replacement for anything other than double-sided tape. It's a method that could be used in addition to clamping or a vacuum table. It's not appropriate for every situation.
I ran a giant industrial router at a cabinet shop. We had a massive 24 by 16 suction table and parts still slipped at the speeds we were running.
Probably going to email them this tip, see if I can't save them some recuts. Some of the laminates they ran were pricey and they hated recutting those.
I saw this and used masking tape and instant spray glue for HVAC tape. WORKED AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mark, great tip....I can't wait to try it out this weekend. Where did you find a collect to accept a .057 inch end mill bit. I have a porter cable 690 router mounted on one of Dave's CNC like your.
That .057 inch end mill has a 1/8 inch shank. I got the 1/8 inch collet for my smaller bits at Elaire.
www.elairecorp.com/portercablecollets.html
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Mark!
Awesome, THANKS!!
Hope it helps you out!
Has anyone used this method for milling out home decor letters or names that are just the font welded together? I’m having issues when I contour around projects it lifts
Great tip! Maybe I don't need a vacuum after all. BTW I can't look at the tattoos on that guys head so I'd love to see you do more of his tips.
Awww come on. Ben is a very good guy and one hell of a luthier. I know that the cranial ink is a bit unsettling at first, but he really knows his stuff. I aspire to be as good as he is one day. Imagine him wearing a set of pink bunny ears and it'll be worth it.
As for the vacuum, you might still need it, but it won't be because this method failed. Good luck and thanks for watching!