Big Wheel Machining - Trommel Trunnion Wheel Resurfacing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2022
- Every Trommel runs on trunnion wheels. Wether its in gold mining, gravel production, or in this case, wood chip drying. These wheels can't run forever without being resurfaced, we proved that one a while back. By truing up the running surface we remove any subsurface shelling.
These wheels need a quick turnaround, and the new Lion 23MT lathe handles them beautifully.
Topper Machine LLC is an entirely manual machine shop located in Spooner, WI. Our videos will highlight some of our shop work as well as the sawmill we built in the shop and our A.D. Baker steam engine, and others we work on.
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Two years later, and still no Topper Machine OnlyFans
I knew someone that had a 1970s cnc lathe, he would always put a huge pipe wrench on the boring bar to change the harmonics/chatter, I saw you use your hand. 😎
A good tip for cast iron is find an old leather couch that someone is throwing away and cut it up to make drop sheets to keep that dust off the ways
A small 3 jaw chuck, on the back of the boring bar, sometimes will take care of the chatter. Sometimes.
Josh I’ve done allot of turning over the years. Big stuff and little stuff. I’ve machined a lot of cast iron. Ductile, Meehanite, & white iron (not very common & very very hard). Just remember the nose radius on your tool dictates the feed rate. If you don’t push it hard enough it’ll chatter. For Those CNMG inserts there is one specifically for cast iron. It doesn’t have a chip breaker. I think it’s a CNMG 553.
Also if you want a mirror finish you can use Ceramic on your finish pass. Increase the speed slow the feed down just a little.
I enjoy your videos!!
Good luck.
It's been over 25 years since I cut any cast iron but watching your video make me smell it. There's nothing like the smell of nodular iron. When you handle a lot of it it gets into your skin and won't wash out. Keep on going Josh, I'm an old WI boy myself.
I'm no machinst by any means, but I just figured you would use a live center on the back end to relieve some stress on the chuck. Not questioning your methods by no means. Enjoy your videos..
If there is enough room, three jacks spaced equally around the center supporting the hub to inside wheel web might remove the chatter in the future.
Additionally use a bowed string to dampen the bar. Since it is upside down the normal method of hanging a weight about 1/3 back from the cutter head to the clamped portion will need the bowed method instead. Isolation of the interaction of the sonic waves will cause a negative feed back effect so tie the two forces through a damping spring lever. Although the weight or force can be calculated I am fuzzy on the equation and the terms. Trial and adjustments to suit will work. To get a feel for this chatter prevention try it in the normal gravity is your friend direction first, instinct will come from repeated usage. Hope this helps, Josh. Spring back rods are the easy choice if you can still find them.
"Technical difficulties" Geez man, I just about choked on my coffee this morning!!
Having worked on asphalt plants, I under stand the trunnion roll concept very well. Adjustment and a alignment procedures. We always had the rolls done in a big chuck but with a center. Just assures concentricity. Thanks for the content.
Fridays just got even better. My wife, Karin, our German Shepherd Dog Halgrim and I are used to watching Kurtis, Karen and Homey with cocktails and treats (Halgrim doesen't get a cocktail, but plenty of treats) and now we get to add Josh and his beautiful Lion C11MT! Happy days. Thanks for the video. We enjoyed it as always.
I've only met one german shepherd who didn't like beer. But in moderation. Those germans love to drink. I do miss my german shepherd/rottweiler mix, she was a big baby. Had to put her down at 14 years old. Glad you enjoyed the video.
You're machine shop humor is so reminiscent of just about every Machinist i have ever worked with except for just a very few really Grumpy old bastards. I love the machine shop sense of humor though my wife does not value it at all. she also doesn't like the machine shop use of colorful foul language i get reprimand often i get the your not at work so watch your language. I tell her I'm just a product of my environment and that doesn't fly at all.
The upside down boring bar reminds me of an old journeyman doing a double upside down boring bar one in tool post and one in the turret on a large diameter part on a Gisholt turret lathe if memory serves me correctly it was a Wohlhaupter boring head mounted in the turret it was a WTF moment for me as a young apprentice. One of many WTF's i saw. some i was able to duplicate years later and had guys in the shop nearly crap their shorts when they saw me do it . The old timer only did the double upside down trick to do rough out it was multiple parts he really cut down on the quote time.
I try to contain some of the humor. I also am a railroad contractor on the side. Spent a few days on a derailment recently as the crane operator and wreck boss. The joking and raunchy humor had us all in great spirits, even though we had several hundred tons in the ditch and buried in snow. I wish I could have worked with some of those great old timers. So much wisdom has been lost.
Inverted boring bar works good. Inverted boring bar can also be used to bore cylinder ID with the lathe running CCW and RH boring bar inverted.. just like this. Advantage to the CCW inverted RH boring bar set up is being able to see the cutting tool working instead of boring a hole blind... Alternative is to use. LH boring bar.
Concern here is the amount of extension on the boring bar, shorter will be better.
No issues with running CCW and inverted tooling on a lathe like this Lion.
Not as fancy as CEEng, not as cranky as Fenner, not as old as Watkins, but as cool as Winky! Great job my man, doin' good work. Even mentioned you on Reddit to someone who needed work in your area!
You didn't mention the big fat one who talks & talks & talks & talks thinking we give a care where his next vacation is going to be. YT has gone to some of these persons heads believing they are a celebrity. Then there is the "look et meh" stage.
Sometimes i clamp the boring bar with a vise grip between the post and the cut ,it damps the chatter if you find the sweet spot
I've had good luck with rags or rubber, hose clamped to it. Never thought of a clamp.
Give it a try
The problem with running upside tooling is that you can get a lifting action of the compound and carriage which will introduce chatter. Adjust the gibs as tight as possible to minimize the vibration. Cheers Zed
Being a brand new tight lathe, that's not much of an issue. Bigger issue is my bar sticking out that far. I need to build something like I used on the Monarch. Was far more rigid.
Lifting is a non-issue on industrial quality lathes. Done this on a Hardinge HLV and similar lathes no issues what so ever. Small light duty lathes like 9-10" south bend and similar will not tolerate being subjected to inverted cutting tools like this.
And, running a lathe with a treaded on chuck CCW is an absolute NO NO, the risk of unscrewing the chuck is almost certain. This is why running the lathe CCW was not taught back in the South Bend lathe books days due to threaded on lathe chucks..
@@rupunzel6299 and the 1.5 " x 8 threaded chuck will come flying off if you run Clockwise on a South Bend.....
@@rupunzel6299 you are not running CCW when in reverse, you are running CW....at least in my view.....
That's a pretty impressive lathe you've got there. No doubt it was not cheap. I was surprised that you didn't engage the tail-stock for the job, as I thought the extra support would be needed, but apparently not. You certainly do some impressive work with your equipment. I've only just found your channel and decided to subscribe, as it looks like you have a lot of interesting videos. All the best from Queensland Australia, where our winter is just about to start, but we don't get snow here. Hope your weather improves soon.
ol adam booth would have been having kittens watching you get them shafts-roller assm out the lathe & put in there pallets ,bang it went as you droped it in , , scratching u all his work Q!!!!!! lovely video josh ,regards from the UK
It looked worse than it was, and the rubber pads in the cart help immensely. Better lifting equipment is coming. Forklift is just not cutting it anymore.
Like the camera angles. From inside the lathe on your 2nd Trunnion wheel landing it in the "chuck" - that was cool. Also the shot above the wheel from the other side after you switched to low speed on the first wheel. Man. Nice Job. Also please keep your clothes on. It's easier on the Camera Equipment and stuff. Great Slow Mo.
Getting to be pretty impressed with that new lathe of yours
Best business decision I have made in a long time was buying this lathe. Very happy with it.
That Lion looks exactly like a Summit lathe I sometimes had to run. I didn’t like it because of how it was geared. You only had certain feeds in certain speed ranges. The chart was confusing since I didn’t run it every day. I preferred my Clausing Colchester.
I am curious as to why you didn't true the trunnion wheel in before starting or using the tail stock and a live centre for extra stability.
You said that it wasn't a precision piece but doesn't truing the part come at a price down the track as the part wears and more is taken off?
Tony from Western Australia 🇦🇺
Growing up in an automotive machine shop we would have to machine heavy duty truck brake drums. Not only were they filled with cracks, but we’re prone to chatter while machining. We would use silencer bands to illuminate the chatter. They work very well. They are available for outside and inside diameter‘s. Have you ever considered using one? Good depth of explanation and demonstration as always. I am glad I found this channel. It is both entertaining and informative. Another job well done, thank you.
I don't think the bands would work in this application. The chatter was definitely in the tool. I've done these for years on the monarch with a different tool holder, without issue. The long stickout of the bar is the culprit, and I'm going to make some new tooling for this lathe to accommodate this repeat job.
Good one Josh . 👍👍👍
Good stuff
Love that brand new Lion lathe. Makes it look like a walk in the park, with no snow of course!
Looks like good bread and butter work there, Josh. I do like the quality of the new camera, but, I would suggest using a smaller aperture (increase the f/stop) on the lens. The may require you to add lighting, but the smaller aperture will increase your depth of field, essentially give you a deeper area of focus. The larger aperture is great for portraits where you want the background blurred, and is also useful in low light situations. But in this case, it's causing large portions of the video to be out of focus and it's not giving you the quality I am sure you are expecting.
Your best video.
Nice work Josh.
New lathe does a good job.
Good content.
Thank you, EM.
Great video .. you work on items like I use to . Bring back a lot of old members
Nice job. that is nice lathe.
It would be interesting to measure surface hardness before and after machining?
Great job on the Lion lathe Josh.
Thanks for sharing.
I charge extra for castiron. Lol.. the clean up is a job in itself. Great video Josh, keep'um coming..
sure is a nice lathe
Keep up the great videos. you’re doing a good job with the camera.
Lovely work there Josh, I do enjoy the larger stuff, keep up the good work, best wishes to you and yours buddy
Just need a crane over head lol awesome shop tho awesome tools. 👌
That was cool. I used to do brake drums and rotors and true up wheels because the kids at the parts stores couldn't get it right. Fun, fun, fun.. Did a great job on the new lathe.
I used to turn drums from rough castings. Filthy job, but paid good. Definitely don't miss it.
oh damn the stripping bit was funny.
nice job Josh! love working with cast if it wasn`t for the mess sorry about snow
This material making stringy chips is not so bad.
The ones I do for the mill here are solid steel and hardened on the outside. I use cnmg shaped ceramic inserts to clean them up. They would probably be good on that work hardened cast iron as well.
That's interesting that they are hardened. I've worked with both cast and steel rolls but never heard of any hardened. Generally you want the trunnion wheel to wear before the trommel tire. My one customer just replaced their tire after 30 years, cost over $160k.
@@TopperMachineLLC I agree, I think somewhere along the line someone made that change to make them last longer. Maybe a trade off on maintenance costs vs. Hardening them, hard to say really. I'm actually gonna quote them new ones made out of mild steel I don't have any way to heat treat but don't think they need to be.
Why didn't you use your tail stock to support the shaft end?
Pardon my asking, but shouldn't the free end of the shaft be indicated to make sure it's straight in the chuck?
Well said I was thinking the same thing and also use the live center to make sure is running true
Hello Josh. The wheels turned out good. I think using an insert with a smaller nose radius would have helped with the chatter. I think you said the insert was a CNMG 644. That is a heavy roughing insert and I find they struggle to take light cuts without vibrating. A 641 probably would have given you less grief with .010" deep cuts. Where the 644 insert really shines is taking heavy cuts through flame cut surfaces. They seem to last forever in that brutal work. Ken
These are 642, so not much issue there. But the big thing is the boring bar. The old setup was totally rigid and worked great. This is working good, but could be better.
Thanks for the video. It looks like you are a valuable service for your customers. Well the snow will be back in a couple of months. Not my favorite but it is Wisconsin. The four seasons are nice. When I was in the Air Force, I missed Wisconsin weather when I was station on Okinawa, Japan and in Arizona.
I am already counting down the days until summer. I hate winter!
@@TopperMachineLLC
🤣🤣🤣
Just wait Josh, next year's even worse for weather. As I'm writing this its Tuesday 2nd May 2023 and weve now had drizzling rain and thunderstorms since last Friday 28th April. Isnt time travel wonderful.
Regards from Canada's banana belt.
🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🕊️🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲👍
toàn những chi tiết to thật vất vã
Such a beautiful lathe. Did you get the 80 inch between centres model?
Hello Josh
Really nice looking finish. That lathe is so ultra bitchin. Almost a shame to get it dirty. I get the feeling it will get plenty of good workouts.
Tease 🤣
Did anyone else hear the Jaws theme at 5:58? The children of the night make sweet music today 👍
Also, isn't it a shame to bang around those newly cleaned up wheels like that?
I did drop it into the cart a little fast, bit in my defense they are rubber lined to protect them.
hold a chunk of brass on the bar.thpe some lead on the bar sometime its real toonable
Is the back end or your boring bar drilled and tapped or machined to a tool . Have you thought about creating a threaded dual disc damper that has an adjustable nut to change the compression on a rubber biscuit to change the frequency of the damper on the fly to stop the harmonics from brinelling your spindle bearing races. One could bore the plain end of the boring bar to fill it with steel shot. Or bore a few holes behind the tool slot in the live end for bolt on damping blocks.
In the 80s I used to turn a lot of cast iron. I had a leading edge on my brazed carbide tooling going in with a radius tip always chattered . A multi angle cutting edge. I just hand ground them never measured an angle.
I've never considered that, but makes perfect sense. I may have to do that. And it wouldn't interfere with the function of the bar as that end is not used. Great idea, thanks.
Very good video as usual! Camera angles were great, if I can give some pointers, light and setting up the focus could use some work. For example @ 17:48 you want to show the button pressing, but the camera is focussing on the angle of the machine on the left.
Again, great video! You're a machinist, not a cameramant after all! :)
You're right about not being a cameraman. Lol. But I'm learning. Just go back and watch my first videos compared to now. I've been working on the focus and lighting is corrected by the camera except in some situations where I've been outside and the sun hits wrong. You'll see that in the next video. Quite a learning curve.
Josh a good Machinist can also be very good at anything he puts his effort into it is in the Machinist DNA
It is still not too late to send some of that snow our way. This looked like an interesting job. As resurfacing will reduce the circumference, do you have to produce a matched set or does that not matter
You can have all the snow you want. We don't want any if it. As to changing the diameter, they shim the bearings to compensate for machining.
Very interesting machining on those big wheels. I wonder if you’d get less chatter using a tailstock center if you have room and a 15 degree or so leading angle on your insert?
The chatter is entirely the boring bar. A 2" bar isn't supposed to stick out 10". The toolholder on the monarch took care of this, but I haven't modified it yet. I used the tailstock on the first several times u did these years back with mixed results. Without gives me more consistency.
@@TopperMachineLLC Looks like you cured the chatter with slower speed and a sharp insert. A heavy rubber band tied on with zip ties would probably kill the harmonics.
@@ellieprice363 or the old lead hammer or block of wood anti vibration trick
No tail support? Did it have a good center? Looks like the lion lathe is working well for you.
Yes, it was obvious that the shaft sticking our towards the tailstock was wobbling, and the wheel would also wobble in use= sloppy work!
Probably blew the white balance on the new camera. Lmao
Hi mate. Awesome videos. Why you didn't use cutting oil for lubrication and cooling?
BTW. You should have gone full monty :))
Just found you and watched you turning the tunion . Have you ever considered spay welding to build up the size of these parts cause after a time the continual reduction of size must effect the speed of the wheels plus if they were built up the company would get more life of of the wheels to at a much lower cost than replacing them when to thin and smaller
John from Uk
We tried it one time. Not a good idea. Realistically we get several years out of them, especially by only taking skim cuts. Most of the time I only take .020 total.
Could try hard spray chrome not sure how it would handle the load / offload pounding a tromell trunnion would produce could always try it on a end of life diameter part nothing lost on a old part. the classic hero or a- hole scenario if it works out you are a hero if not you are the a-hole got to shake the dice to find out how they fall.
Why you use not the Tailstock by this heavy wheel? This is extra wear for lathe bearings.
I would have used the tailstock too. I couldn’t tell for sure but it kind of looked like the shafts weren’t running true also.
He can weld a center plate and make a center hole, and remove it when it is no longer needed.
Son heavy weight is a huge wear and tear for the lathe bearings.
@@lexpee that or he could use a spider on the end of the shaft. Then he could indicate the shafts in accuracy and easily before turning it.
It's so sad for that new lathe.
I think this man can learn something from people who have been doing this profession for years.
@@lexpee everyone has their own way. As long as the job gets done and no one is hurt is usually what any shop I’ve worked for was more worried about. I’ve been a machinist for 25 years in Missouri and I’ll admit I don’t know everything and will never know or see everything in machining and manufacturing.
You need a crane hoist there sir it'll be easy tasking for you
Wait for next week's video. It's in the works, unfortunately not fast enough.
Hi Josh whats the purpose of running in reverse? is this to stop chips flying about??
The boring bar insert is left-hand so must be inverted when not boring.
why they did not press the center, you can see the howl on the shaft.
is it possible to make wear rings for those?
No. It has been tried and actually causes more damage. On average these last 5 years of being trued up every 3 months.
Adjustable wrench bro???
why use a boring bar instead of standard tool holder for that tool post and a good insert? and no live center on tail stock?
Because the part is larger than the cross slide clearance. This is the only way to do it. The lack of tailstock is due to bad center in the shaft, but I've done these for 6 years and never have an issue. It's a short part and there is no shaft deflection. Thanks for watching
Interesting how the work hardening is not even on the circumference. Is that due to the sloshing/tumbling of the material being run through the trommel ?
The hardening is just outside the worn groove from material squeezed under the weight of the trommel. I find it fascinating how these wheels fail and change over time.
why are you not turning between centres ?
A video light of some sort would improve picture quality especially in the close-up shots. Thank you for sharing, Greetings from Tasmania 42 South.z
I've tried the machine lamp, but don't like the look. Been working with camera settings and it helps alot. It takes time to work out the bugs, but it's getting better.
@@TopperMachineLLC Just needs a soft light to remove the shadows when the overhead illumination is obstructed. The lathe work light is too bright. Many folks use a magnetic LED Low voltage light which are cheap and easy to move about. Interesting shop you have with a good variety of work challenges. I am not a real machinist, just a means to an end building big astronomical telescope’s and mountings, plus a wide range of camera fittings and adapters. I always learn something from others projects and machining techniques. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🇦🇺🦘Southern Cross Observatory-42 South.
Depth of focus.
Josh, in many scenes only part of the scene is in focus and the rest is out. Unfortunately the part in focus isn't always what you want. This is known as "shallow depth of focus".
If you think about it, when you draw a rectangle around some space (frame an image) the image has a depth from the closest thing to the camera to the farthest thing within that frame from the camera. Except for 'art' shots, we generally want that entire distance range to be in focus. The distance range is generally from the closest object all the way to the back wall of the shop, so probably 20 feet or more.
Depth of focus (or depth of field) is the distance range that will be in focus, or really 'close enough' to in focus. This is controlled by a combination of the lens focal length and the aperture. The aperture that can be used is determined by the amount of light available, the 'film speed' (ISO setting for the camera), and the shutter speed.
The smaller the aperture the larger the depth of focus. Generally you would like to be shooting around F9 or F11 on most lenses for a reasonable depth of focus. I'd guess you are probably around F2 to F4 on most shots. To get a smaller aperture, you need a faster ISO setting, a slower shutter speed, more shop light, or a combination of all three.
The easiest thing to try first is increasing the ISO setting. As you increase the ISO setting the image will start to get 'grainy' or noisy. You want to back off to a setting below where the image quality becomes unacceptable with the available lighting. I'd guess you ought to be able to set the ISO to ASA 1600 or maybe even 3200 and still get decent image quality. Setting the ISO and leaving automatic exposure will let the camera set the shutter speed and aperture to get the right exposure for the shot. You might also want to go to 'aperture priority' to tell it you care more about the aperture than the shutter speed.
Since shooting this video I've switched to aparuture priority. I've been shooting mostly at ISO of 1600 which seems about right for the shop lighting.
Biggest problem is that I get one shot at filming these jobs and can't reshoot like many others can. I have about 6 videos all shot and ready for editing. I hope I have the settings correct, but will continue to work on it. My father in law and neighbor are professional photographers, and have been giving pointers. So, everything you brought up has been discussed, but I appreciate your additional input. Believe me, I'm taking a lot of notes.
Do you sometimes or have you ever resurfaced printing ink mill rollers?
No, I have not. Would be fun to learn/try. I'm always up for a challenge.
I thought they were convex ?
Why didnt you use some soft jaws, or brass sheet on that journal in the hard jawed Lion lathe chuck? At 18:50 see the chuck bite marks on the journal..
What you are seeing is superficial. I looked at the footage, the camera makes it look horrible. A rag just wiped that off. It's amazing what the camera does and doesn't see.
Hi
Great job.
This is a Taiwan or Chinese lathe?
Bulgarian.
How many times can they be resurfaced.? Do they put a "tire" on to bring them back to size?
There is a minimum size then they are scrap. That's why I only take a slim cut, as little as possible.
If you had a centre in the shaft would it make it easier on the Chuck?
You don't cover the ways is there a reason for that ?
Christopher from Down Under
My thoughts exactly.
Actually no in this case. Been doing these for 6 years and the centers are never good. They use pullers on the bearings and wind up destroying the center hole. I had one that looked like it was a 1/4" off center. If I had a revolving tailstock chuck, I may use that. Maybe someday.
@@johnlista6743 I know, but it's not worth the time. I've been doing these for 6 years without any issue other than changing my tooling types. Knock them out fast and get them back. I did have one years back that I did fix. It was actually drilled 1/4" off center. Not sure why,but was brand new, never ran.
Hi John, love your videos, but your camera is always out of focus. I can't figure out what the camera is focusing on. Definitely a setting problem on your new camera. I know how frustrating it can be. Lol, check out youtube videos on your camera.
a big piece of steel on end of bar will help
Call me dumb, took me a little while to work out why you were doing the setup, obviously you need the reach of the boring bar configured like that because you can't get the normal tooling out that far !
I assume these are a wear item, and you can do cuts to true it up over it's life, gradually reducing the thickness with each clean up like machining brakes. Can it be built back up when it eventually gets to thin, or is a replacement required?
These are completely a consumable. We attempted to rebuild one as an experiment and put it into service on a trommel that was about to be scrapped. It lasted a short time before it started flaking out. We just take the minimum to clean up and then pitch them.
@@TopperMachineLLC cheers for the info, .
Nice work josh Why sometimes do you cut in reverse? I have seen this before on other videos. Thanks
The setup gets more rigid because the counter-cutting-force pulls the crossfeed into the dove tails instead of pushing it downwords on the carriage. Which means you avoid any play in the setup and have a bigger chance for a non-chattering cut. Also the length of the cutting tool being used here to reduce chattering .
Also, I don't have a left hand boring bar, so this is the only way to run with a right hand one. But I do like how this is cutting. This is the second batch I've run on this lathe and am very happy with the results
@@snicks50 are you sure about that ? turning in this direction will increase the opportunity to vibrate, more so as the bedways wear.as its actually lifting the saddle and crossslide
@@martinfidel7086 Im sure My explanation might not be correct. Was trying to dumb it down for others. Thanks
@@martinfidel7086 Has nothing to do with bed wear at all. Its the rigidity of the machine or and or setup.
Don't they have scrapers on the ways of the trommel?
I believe they do, along with oilers. But this is considered the wear part of the system and designed to be replaced.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thanks Josh.
More light would help those slow mo shots.
Those slow motion shots are with the new GoPro Hero 10 and I still have a lot to figure out with it. Not sure if there is a software glitch or if it's just lighting. Nothing about filming this work has been easy.
@@TopperMachineLLC You definitely had some good angles, especially given that you couldn't stop the machine to move the camera while maintaining surface finish.
Could try hard spray chrome not sure how it would handle the load/ unload pressure on the tromell trunnion wheel could try it on a end of life diameter part. The classic hero or A-- Hole scenario if it works you are a hero if not you are the A-- hole nothing to lose got to shake the dice to see how they fall.
This customer will not go for ANY suggested repairs, because they tried a few thing years ago and damaged the tromel tire. Wheels are about $3000 each, the last tire they replaced was $160,000. Tires last 20-30 years unless damaged, wheels are a consumable.
Now all you have to do is turn the drums ring that rides on them.
Been sitting here thinking if another man wanted to know if was going to be naked that would give me cause for concern
I think he was more wondering what kind of sickos would want to see me naked. Lol.
DID YOU INDICATE THE SHAFT TO SEE IF IT RAN TRUE / MAY BE YOU DID THAT BUT DID NOT SHOW IT
I did. It's hard to shoot and edit everything in that is needed for the whole story. You have to cut some stuff. Makes it even harder that I do all of it by myself.
If a wood chuck could chip wood, how much wood would a wood chuck chip if a wood chuck could chip wood.......
Tailstock?
I used to run these in the 25N monarch and couldn't reach it with the short stroke of the tailstock. Also, the center drill hole was always damaged beyond use due to pullers. Ran them for 6 years like this. This is only the second batch on the new lathe. It handles it very well without the center, but after all the grief I'm getting , I will be building an adapter for these. The shafts are all the same size so one adapter will be all I need. Thanks for watching.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thanks..
Anybody else think that a fan to blow the metal dust away and a vacuum to clean the air is a good idea ??? ........
Yes, and I have a 4000 CFM exhaust fan for this purpose. It makes a huge difference. Also respirators help. Stay safe.
chamfer?
Reading the comments below, accuracy was raised and that depends on what was asked etc, to me though the m ain point I see is the wear stress on the lathe bearings, not to hard to use the tail stock with some adapting
4CS/D would be 25 RPM, if you use 100 for cutting speed.
Use the formula as a starting point and adjust from there. They are only base guidelines in a perfect situation. Every job reacts different and needs tweaking to optimum performance. The way I ran these on the Monarch won't work on the Lion, so need to get them figured out and make notes.
no center it would help with chatter
Centers on these are no good due to them using pullers. The centers are all damaged and the chatter is in the bar. Heavier boring bar would cure this.
Can't believe the guy asked you if you were doing these with your clothes on 🤣🤣 Gotta be an older person mistaking youtube for only fans 🤣🤣
Your camera hates focusing on anything you are working on.....
USE CUTTING OIL OR KEROSENE ON CAST IRON AND A SLOWER SPEED
Lp junk
Sorry about all that snow. Must be the man made global warming.
Why are you turning ie reverse, it makes no sense to me.
He is doing that because he does not have an opposite handed boring bar that would allow forward rotation.
I feel sorry for you...You didn't have a better teacher...You didn't have a live center supporting the shaft, a 4 jaw, not having a sharp insert ,too fast of RPM. These things make a big difference in the finish. Hope these I pointed out will help you in the next repair.
I got your email and will be replying soon. Thanks for the feedback.
So quit talking and do it
I hate big machines and big work.