𝗩𝗘𝗛𝗜𝗖𝗟𝗘 𝗥𝗘𝗣𝗔𝗜𝗥: 𝟮𝟬𝟬𝟬 𝗦𝗮𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗻 𝗦𝗟𝟮 𝗟𝗶𝗳𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗣𝗹𝗮𝗰𝗲𝗺𝗲𝗻𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝗝𝗮𝗰𝗸 𝘀𝘁𝗮𝗻𝗱𝘀

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 20

  • @GetGood5
    @GetGood5 8 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thank you

  • @matttg0434
    @matttg0434 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Thank you! didn't actually know that I could lift at those welded beads

    • @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND
      @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Bastos907, thanks for watching and sending me your comment. Very happy to help you out. May you have many more years of dependable service from your Saturn. All the best to you, H.D.H. [: { ].

    • @kendall9099
      @kendall9099 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      You can if they're solid. Unfortunately, they're one of the first things to show rust on these plastic-panel Saturns.

    • @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND
      @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND  3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@kendall9099 Hi Kendall, thanks for watching and sending me your thoughts. I have not had experience with the welded beads rusting out. I live in Vancouver, BC (Pacific Rainforest area) and have had my Saturn since new and it is over 20 years old. I think maybe the vehicle you saw this on may have been lifted with a jack without a cushioned/rubberized lifting face and scratched the bead which may have accelerated the corrosion. Anyways, thanks for providing added information, which will encourage people to use some of the other lifting areas I have noted. All the best to you, H.D.H. [: { ].

    • @kendall9099
      @kendall9099 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@HANDYDANDYHUSBAND Definitely. I wasn't referring to the car in your video. That one is relatively clean as far as Saturns from the "salt belt" go. I was actually referring to one on which I've been working, which has considerably more cancer. I was just encouraging people to really consider their choices on their particular vehicle because the rust-proofing on these cars was quite poor and it may not hit home right away due to the plastic body panels.

    • @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND
      @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@kendall9099 Hi Kendall, thanks for your further comment and clarifying your thoughts. Yes, I agree, rust should be an active consideration when identifying a strong place to lift one's vehicle. By the way, I have heard of people having the jack break through the rear floor pan when trying to lift just in front of the rear wheel (one can lift from this area but only with a thick metal plate to spread out the load) so watch that location as well if you need to lift Saturns. All the best to you, H.D.H.
      [: { ].

  • @pressureflipin1992
    @pressureflipin1992 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I never knew you could lift on the welds

    • @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND
      @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi chuck Core, thanks for watching and sending your comment. Yes, ever since unibody automobile construction became more popular, the weld seam is often used as the place to lift most vehicles. Of course, older vehicles with regular frames would need to have the jacks placed under the frames. Note that as I mentioned in the video, this area can bend over to one side if the jack is not positioned straight--this is why a lot of people use a grooved puck or other thick plastic material to support the weld so it doesn't bend one way or the other. All the best to you, H.D.H. [: { ].

  • @olenaerhardt7725
    @olenaerhardt7725 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you put a Jack anywhere on that welded rib or only in certain areas? I used before that rib and it got bent slightly, so now I used the areas where those rectangular marks are. They are next to the ribs. Thank you for the very informative film.

    • @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND
      @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi Olena Erhardt, thank you for watching and reaching out to me with your question. From my understanding and what I have observed, the manufacturer only recommends lifting from the weld beads closest to the front and rear tire. I have not tried using the welded beads in the center area; therefore, I am unable to comment on whether this is advisable. Next to the weld beads moving from the outside of the vehicle to the center of it, I do see that there is a support member. I think this is what you are referring to as the 'rectangular piece'. I have in the past used this area closest to the front tires both to lift and support the vehicle with jack stands. I have heard of some people claiming that this same area near the REAR tires is very weak and one should not use it to lift or support the vehicle. So beware that there may be a difference between the front and back of the vehicle. I should note though that the original manufacturer has not recommended this spot either on the front or rear. Alot of tire shops and general repair garages that I have seen use this support member, but I should note that they use long, hefty pieces of wood that distribute the weight over a larger area. Hope this was helpful. Take care and stay safe. All the best, H.D.H. [: { ]

    • @olenaerhardt7725
      @olenaerhardt7725 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you very much for your reply. Now everything is more clear on the lifting of a car, the diagram you show is especially helpful, because I had doubts about those large dark areas, now I'll start to use them. About those rectangles next to the small rectangular areas on the ribs shown on your diagram, they are slightly dented rectangles, looks like that were marked that way by manufacturer for placing a jack stand under them. But now I better use ribbed area after reading your comment. See when I used before those ribs, they were slightly deformed after using jack lift or stands on them. I didn't know that you need to use Slotted Frame Rubber Jack Pad, but that is O'K because anyway I use that car to practice on repairs and to understand the work of the car better. Sir also could you tell me where is the starter on that car (2001 Saturn SL2), is it on the driver side, or passenger side, and if it has a starter brace? In the book (Haynes Repair Manual, Saturn 1991-2002) they say that later models don't have that brace, but unclear what model they are referring to.

    • @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND
      @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Olena Erhardt, Thanks for watching; I am happy that I was able to help you. All the best, H.D.H.

    • @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND
      @HANDYDANDYHUSBAND  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi Olena Erhardt, Sorry...my screen only showed part of your comment, but when I checked my gmail account I realized you had a further question. The starter for the 2000 Saturn SL2 is located closer to the passenger side. It is slightly to the left of the oil filter and just next to the alternator (if you are looking at the engine from underneath the vehicle). My particular model (2000) does not have a bracket. The starter has two bolts that affix the starter metal body to the engine block. When removing the starter, it is very helpful to 1) spray the bolts that attach the starter to the engine block with penetrating oil for at least 15 prior to removal (I use old transmission oil or power steering fluid--to reuse old fluids that would normally be discarded), 2) use a 2" mechanics mirror to enable you to identify the two bolt, as one of them is behind the starter body, and very easy to strip/break/round. The mirror will really help you get your socket on the bolt, 3) Use an eight point socket (not a 12 point) and use a piece of paper or tape between the socket and the wrench so that the socket does not pull out, 4) When removing the wiring label the connections so that you replace them exactly as they were arranged on the old starter, 5) Finally, Work patiently and you will be able to remove the attaching bolts, 5) When reattaching, be careful, do not overtighten, max torque for housing to engine block is 37N.m (27lb ft) for starter to positive terminal 10N.m (89lb inches), starter to solenoid terminal 5N.m (44 lb inches), battery terminal bolts 17N.m (13lb ft). I have attached a few picture to my Google Drive, here is the link so that you have a good idea of placement: drive.google.com/file/d/1keAHRElkDo-c_dS75PutcgCgbIFdUJrZ/view?usp=sharing. Hope it helps. If you have any other questions, feel free to inquire. All the best, H.D.H. [: { ].

    • @olenaerhardt7725
      @olenaerhardt7725 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Sir, thank you very much for your detailed and, I would say, encyclopedic reply. Now I know exactly where the starter is. I watched many films on the starter replacement and none of them shows clearly where is it. Probably it is for more advances amateur mechanics. Special thanks for the new diagrams and pointing out on 6 point sockets (I was planning to use 12 or flare nut open wrench (nothing wrong with flare nut, but might be hard to reach with it)). Where do you find those diagram, or they are yours, if you don't mind me asking? I have very good penetrating oil (B'laster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst - 11-Ounces fm Amazon, works great), but thank you for the 15 min timing. Starter to solenoid terminal - is it that purple wire? And Battery terminals you mean battery-to-battery cables? Also you write: starter to positive terminal 89lb-in, in other films they say that there is a negative terminal, that goes on the starter. Sorry to ask many questions again. Probably I just go and look, how everything is connected there, I think I have enough information already.
      And last general question: Can you actually replace the starter on Saturn from the wheel well if you removed the knuckle on the passenger side front wheel? So you don't need to go under the car.
      Thank you again. I think your channel will grow tremendously if you make some more films on simple procedures like replacing the battery cables (just 1-2 unclear films on that), oil change, alternator, serpentine belt replacement (there are many films on those issues, but yours are very detailed and clear).