I find shooting with absolute ev in minds does really make me a better photographer. Able to calculate exact scene you want to frame , setting exposure for highlight and shadow , averaging it out and get perfect picture than spraying and praying. It does make post process a breeze when I shot a lot.
It absolutely is relevant. It’s still there weather you choose to use it out not. It’s simply a standardised reference point. The camera is still doing it even if you don’t look. EV is exposure value. Even the histogram is referencing in a value of exposure.
Exactly. Small detail, Exposure Value (EV) is a fixed table with exposure time (*) and aperture number relations. As soon as you throw in "amount of light " and hence ISO to get to correct exposure, it becomes absolute and is called Light Value (LV) instead of EV. I still want my camera to offer me a "constant EV" option, so I have filed an RfC with its manufacturer for a software feature with EV assignment to a freely assignable control ring. I basically want my old Hasselblad-Zeiss V system lens feature back. Should not be too difficult. And don't understand why it is not available yet. Even when more important things are on the list, it is so simple. In the example David gives, a "minus 5 EV" means sliding only one of the parameters in the exposure triangle (diamond with flash) and constant EV then means I can rotate a ring and for each F-stop I close down, the exposure gets doubled - and vice versa. As long as I do not change the relation between aperture and exposure time, I am limited by the available aperture range. This means, in an available light situation, I can shoot a group portrait with f/11 and a single portrait with background blur at f/4 and whatever aperture I choose, the EV is kept constant by adapting exposure time. Some spaces have strongly contrasting backgrounds (e.g. daylight lit windows) when inside the amount of light is fairly constant. Here, constant EV exposure gives very consistent raw shots and (assuming manual WB) the correction of one raw shot can be applied to all the others. (*) I prefer "exposure time" over "shutter speed" because shutters work at constant speed and only vary the time between opening and closing. Except in old movie cameras where the shutter's rotational speed relates to the fps setting and per frame exposure is set by changing the open-close angle between the two rotors.
Thanks for the explanation Mark. I always wondered why I should be concerned about EV. Now I know I can just rely on my own creative imagination and camera settings in making images.
How cool was this video, David! I haven't heard anyone address the absolute EV chart ever....on TH-cam anyway. First time I heard about it was reading the manual for my Nikon FE which was given to me in lathe late 80s... and other than knowing you could arrive at same EV given different settings, I found it mind boggling, and didn't bother with it. That is until my Sekonic light meter decided to show metered scenes in EVs (cause I had no idea how to properly use it when I first got it.) for the first month, I thought that's simply how it works. So I made a copy of that EV chart, and used it regularly with naive pride for awhile. Till I decided to eD the manual of the Sekonic to see what else it could do....hahaha. Suffice it to satay I no longer carry around my EV chart print out, but that thing surely helped me lean my f-stops and absolute EV... even if kind of by mistake. (Would you believe I still have that printed chart in my film camera bag?! Hahaha) You're video was spot on and simple and easy to understand. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Thanks, David, man you have no idea how much you've help me in this video. As you were talking I adjusted my EV & ISO & my picture became clearer instantaneously. I have to subscribe & watch more of your videos & learn more about my camcorder & it's functions. Thanks again man.👍🏾🇧🇸👏🏽👏🏽
I had a rangefinder camera where the shutter speed ring was close to the aperture ring. You could move both together by holding them both together. One of the rings had a small square opening that showed an EV number. You would set a shutter speed, look at the simple meter and get the EV number and turn the aperture ring to reveal that number. Exposure was set, if you then clamped both shutter and aperture rings together, you could turn until a new desired speed or aperture was selected. The EV window would always show the same EV number. It was an Olympus Pen D, half frame camera, 1964, and I loved it. As a student, getting double the shots per roll was a treat. Hope this explanation helps some viewers. You rambled far too much in your video.
Some hasselblad used it too. Today it’s useless no camera uses it, unless you want to know,exposure equivalence what is not a bad thing. A handheld meter is the better way to understand exposure.
As Lowbarr said, my Hasselblad 501CM has it like that too. As for my rambling, just trying to give context! Also why I'm now putting chapter markers in the description so feel free to skip to the part you want. :)
Of course I use EV as I’m on film. Hasselblad nicely gives you direct EV reading on the lens then you adjust from there off your light meter if you have a good one
Some light meters give readings in EV so the confusion then becomes how do I switch from the EV reading to something I can input into the camera. The fact that you can adjust the SS and Aperture against one another and keep the same EV then becomes a lot more understandable.
Well explained as usual. Like the weekly vids., one day I may learn something. I remember when I I got my first SLR, Kodak standard print film was 80 ISO. Things have moved on at a fast pace since things went digital. No more smelly darkroom and Ilford FP4/HP5 for me. My light/flash metre does not get much use. Thanks again, keep up the good work.
I agree. These days EV is "usually" a reference to exposure compensation or flash exposure compensation. At least that's how I use the term. For example, if I'm in aperture priority and go -1 EV on exposure, which is global, then I'll need to compensate +1 or so on the flash to balance everything out.
His use of the term EV led me down the path I took. I also did a video about exposure compensation a few weeks ago. th-cam.com/video/Lpmc8CsaE4s/w-d-xo.html
Very interesting. Just to back up. How did you decide you needed a "5" EV change? Was that a creative decision? By the way, I recently purchased a 4x5 large format film camera and so the EV value is more relevant than with a digital camera.
I thought the question was more related to exposure compensation dial? For example, I was set on shooting a scene at F8/ with a ss 1/8 iso 100. But the scene is too dark, turning the exposure compensation does bring up the scene without changing the exposure triangle values.
His use of the term EV led me down the path I took. I also did a video about exposure compensation a few weeks ago. th-cam.com/video/Lpmc8CsaE4s/w-d-xo.html
That EV always puzzles me and now I kinda understand it just a tiny bit. What about that EV dial of the camera, what does it really do? Sometimes I'd set it to +1 +2 to get more light but never really see to big of a change. Thank you for that video.
I think you're talking about the exposure compensation and it's supposed to change what the camera considers to be properly exposed away from 18% grey up or down by the selected value. Unless you're in manual mode the exposure should automatically change by the amount you dial in.
I was following along with your presentation , you displayed 2 side by side images that had different shutter speeds, aperture settings and different ISO settings, and arrived at the same EV values, I get that. What I do not get is, when looking at the 2 images, one at 100 ISO and the other at 3200 ISO, there is an ISO value that is 32 times greater than the other! Surely this should introduce some distortion and graininess to the image? Yes? And if not, is that because the shutter speed was reduced to such an extent that the high ISO was negated? Please explain. Thank you!
I do occasionally. I was taking photos of the moon with a 50mm lens and wouldn't have gotten a useful exposure with the built in meter as even the spot meter was too large. If my camera had matchstick metering, that may have done it. I wound up with 1/200 of a second with f16 and iso 200 based on the EV.
My Sekonic L758 has an EV setting and (if I recall right) is one way to easily set light ratios for studio lighting. For example, a 4:1 light ratio on portraits. How do you get that? EV's.
Wow that method would never work with a film camera. I always set for a balanced exposure with camera meter or my Sekonic meter, then make adjustment based on my background's brightness or darkness. After that "Bracket Shoot" to give you the exact exposure you are desiring.
1/3rd stop increments? As an old film photographer I would have considered that an unnecessarily precise adjustment. 1/2 stop increments are good enough with film. I argue with digital too. What - theoretical - scenario would need 1/3rd stop precision where 1/2 stop is not good enough? Is that a Canon camera where you need to milk every last bit of dynamic range? IMO 1/3rd is a level of precision that drives people more nuts than necessary.
JP dJ --- I know you were not trying to be funny, but I found this comment hilarious. I never thought about like that, and what made it funny is it's so true. Thanks for the laugh.
Yes I cannot think of anything worse than options. I mean, I would argue when any cars only had three gears in the 50ies that was enought then as today. Atleast you for something to complain about on the internet. Hopefully you feel much better now. /Sarcasm
If it's too much, most camera allow you to switch to 1/2 stops. I like having more precise control as there have been times when a 1/3 stop is "just right."
Thirds and tenths are absolutely necessary. 1/2 stop increments are far too wide. Don't care if that's what they did in the film days. And even 1/3 stop increments is too much sometimes. Yeah, I'm that guy...and I don't care LOL.
I find shooting with absolute ev in minds does really make me a better photographer. Able to calculate exact scene you want to frame , setting exposure for highlight and shadow , averaging it out and get perfect picture than spraying and praying. It does make post process a breeze when I shot a lot.
It absolutely is relevant. It’s still there weather you choose to use it out not. It’s simply a standardised reference point. The camera is still doing it even if you don’t look. EV is exposure value. Even the histogram is referencing in a value of exposure.
that kind of tutorials is precious!
Exactly. Small detail, Exposure Value (EV) is a fixed table with exposure time (*) and aperture number relations.
As soon as you throw in "amount of light " and hence ISO to get to correct exposure, it becomes absolute and is called Light Value (LV) instead of EV.
I still want my camera to offer me a "constant EV" option, so I have filed an RfC with its manufacturer for a software feature with EV assignment to a freely assignable control ring. I basically want my old Hasselblad-Zeiss V system lens feature back. Should not be too difficult. And don't understand why it is not available yet. Even when more important things are on the list, it is so simple.
In the example David gives, a "minus 5 EV" means sliding only one of the parameters in the exposure triangle (diamond with flash) and constant EV then means I can rotate a ring and for each F-stop I close down, the exposure gets doubled - and vice versa. As long as I do not change the relation between aperture and exposure time, I am limited by the available aperture range. This means, in an available light situation, I can shoot a group portrait with f/11 and a single portrait with background blur at f/4 and whatever aperture I choose, the EV is kept constant by adapting exposure time. Some spaces have strongly contrasting backgrounds (e.g. daylight lit windows) when inside the amount of light is fairly constant. Here, constant EV exposure gives very consistent raw shots and (assuming manual WB) the correction of one raw shot can be applied to all the others.
(*) I prefer "exposure time" over "shutter speed" because shutters work at constant speed and only vary the time between opening and closing. Except in old movie cameras where the shutter's rotational speed relates to the fps setting and per frame exposure is set by changing the open-close angle between the two rotors.
Good point about shutter speed nomenclature. I think the camera manufacturers still refer to it that way in the manual though.
Thanks for the explanation Mark. I always wondered why I should be concerned about EV. Now I know I can just rely on my own creative imagination and camera settings in making images.
How cool was this video, David!
I haven't heard anyone address the absolute EV chart ever....on TH-cam anyway.
First time I heard about it was reading the manual for my Nikon FE which was given to me in lathe late 80s... and other than knowing you could arrive at same EV given different settings, I found it mind boggling, and didn't bother with it.
That is until my Sekonic light meter decided to show metered scenes in EVs (cause I had no idea how to properly use it when I first got it.)
for the first month, I thought that's simply how it works. So I made a copy of that EV chart, and used it regularly with naive pride for awhile. Till I decided to eD the manual of the Sekonic to see what else it could do....hahaha.
Suffice it to satay I no longer carry around my EV chart print out, but that thing surely helped me lean my f-stops and absolute EV... even if kind of by mistake.
(Would you believe I still have that printed chart in my film camera bag?! Hahaha)
You're video was spot on and simple and easy to understand. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
Gotta admit - I never really used EV when I was learning but kind of wish I had used the chart like you did! Might have made things more clear.
Brilliant explanation!
Thanks, David, man you have no idea how much you've help me in this video. As you were talking I adjusted my EV & ISO & my picture became clearer instantaneously. I have to subscribe & watch more of your videos & learn more about my camcorder & it's functions. Thanks again man.👍🏾🇧🇸👏🏽👏🏽
Good way to explain stops to someone. If a person understand that it actually gives them more freedom to do exactly what they want.
I came here to find out more about EV because I picked up light meter which displays it. You explained exactly what I wanted to know about it. Thanks.
I had a rangefinder camera where the shutter speed ring was close to the aperture ring. You could move both together by holding them both together. One of the rings had a small square opening that showed an EV number. You would set a shutter speed, look at the simple meter and get the EV number and turn the aperture ring to reveal that number. Exposure was set, if you then clamped both shutter and aperture rings together, you could turn until a new desired speed or aperture was selected. The EV window would always show the same EV number. It was an Olympus Pen D, half frame camera, 1964, and I loved it. As a student, getting double the shots per roll was a treat. Hope this explanation helps some viewers. You rambled far too much in your video.
Some hasselblad used it too.
Today it’s useless no camera uses it, unless you want to know,exposure equivalence what is not a bad thing.
A handheld meter is the better way to understand exposure.
Edward Kilner - sounds like a cool feature and a good way to become experienced with EV usage.
I didn't think DB rambled, though, imo :)
As Lowbarr said, my Hasselblad 501CM has it like that too. As for my rambling, just trying to give context! Also why I'm now putting chapter markers in the description so feel free to skip to the part you want. :)
Of course I use EV as I’m on film. Hasselblad nicely gives you direct EV reading on the lens then you adjust from there off your light meter if you have a good one
Some light meters give readings in EV so the confusion then becomes how do I switch from the EV reading to something I can input into the camera. The fact that you can adjust the SS and Aperture against one another and keep the same EV then becomes a lot more understandable.
Well explained as usual. Like the weekly vids., one day I may learn something. I remember when I I got my first SLR, Kodak standard print film was 80 ISO. Things have moved on at a fast pace since things went digital. No more smelly darkroom and Ilford FP4/HP5 for me. My light/flash metre does not get much use. Thanks again, keep up the good work.
We have come a long way!
It’s possible the guy that asked the question may be asking about exposure compensation...
I agree. These days EV is "usually" a reference to exposure compensation or flash exposure compensation. At least that's how I use the term.
For example, if I'm in aperture priority and go -1 EV on exposure, which is global, then I'll need to compensate +1 or so on the flash to balance everything out.
His use of the term EV led me down the path I took. I also did a video about exposure compensation a few weeks ago. th-cam.com/video/Lpmc8CsaE4s/w-d-xo.html
Lovely video sir, very informative 🙂
Good stuff Dave, the more you know 🤔🤗👍👍
Very interesting. Just to back up. How did you decide you needed a "5" EV change? Was that a creative decision? By the way, I recently purchased a 4x5 large format film camera and so the EV value is more relevant than with a digital camera.
Fujifilm X series do have the EV dial to compensate the exposure.
I've honestly not even thought about EV ever since I learned what it is lol.
At the start, you failed to say that one EV change is half or double the previous value. This would have set the stage.
amazing video
I thought the question was more related to exposure compensation dial? For example, I was set on shooting a scene at F8/ with a ss 1/8 iso 100. But the scene is too dark, turning the exposure compensation does bring up the scene without changing the exposure triangle values.
His use of the term EV led me down the path I took. I also did a video about exposure compensation a few weeks ago. th-cam.com/video/Lpmc8CsaE4s/w-d-xo.html
That EV always puzzles me and now I kinda understand it just a tiny bit. What about that EV dial of the camera, what does it really do? Sometimes I'd set it to +1 +2 to get more light but never really see to big of a change.
Thank you for that video.
I think you're talking about the exposure compensation and it's supposed to change what the camera considers to be properly exposed away from 18% grey up or down by the selected value.
Unless you're in manual mode the exposure should automatically change by the amount you dial in.
I was following along with your presentation , you displayed 2 side by side images that had different shutter speeds, aperture settings and different ISO settings, and arrived at the same EV values, I get that. What I do not get is, when looking at the 2 images, one at 100 ISO and the other at 3200 ISO, there is an ISO value that is 32 times greater than the other! Surely this should introduce some distortion and graininess to the image? Yes? And if not, is that because the shutter speed was reduced to such an extent that the high ISO was negated? Please explain. Thank you!
Nicely explained. Thank you.
I do occasionally. I was taking photos of the moon with a 50mm lens and wouldn't have gotten a useful exposure with the built in meter as even the spot meter was too large. If my camera had matchstick metering, that may have done it.
I wound up with 1/200 of a second with f16 and iso 200 based on the EV.
My Sekonic L758 has an EV setting and (if I recall right) is one way to easily set light ratios for studio lighting. For example, a 4:1 light ratio on portraits. How do you get that? EV's.
I don't use it David, I usually adjust my shutter speed as long as it's something I can hand hold. Otherwise I'll tweak my ISO or aperture.
Incomplete presentation - I was hoping the technicalities of how EV compensation works on the sensor once the triangle is decided.
Wow that method would never work with a film camera. I always set for a balanced exposure with camera meter or my Sekonic meter, then make adjustment based on my background's brightness or darkness. After that "Bracket Shoot" to give you the exact exposure you are desiring.
Yes, i remember those charts from the 80's. Glad to not need them so much anymore.
1/3rd stop increments? As an old film photographer I would have considered that an unnecessarily precise adjustment. 1/2 stop increments are good enough with film. I argue with digital too. What - theoretical - scenario would need 1/3rd stop precision where 1/2 stop is not good enough?
Is that a Canon camera where you need to milk every last bit of dynamic range?
IMO 1/3rd is a level of precision that drives people more nuts than necessary.
JP dJ --- I know you were not trying to be funny, but I found this comment hilarious. I never thought about like that, and what made it funny is it's so true. Thanks for the laugh.
Yes I cannot think of anything worse than options. I mean, I would argue when any cars only had three gears in the 50ies that was enought then as today. Atleast you for something to complain about on the internet. Hopefully you feel much better now. /Sarcasm
If it's too much, most camera allow you to switch to 1/2 stops. I like having more precise control as there have been times when a 1/3 stop is "just right."
Thirds and tenths are absolutely necessary. 1/2 stop increments are far too wide. Don't care if that's what they did in the film days. And even 1/3 stop increments is too much sometimes. Yeah, I'm that guy...and I don't care LOL.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto I love 1/3 stop increments and even tenths.
what a math
Nice, but still not as nice as a 3 Legged Thing tripod....... ;-)
😉😁