I had a continental block, the pockets for the seat inserts were machined way too deep on 2 cyls. I was the 3rd rebuilder. Not having access to a full/pro machine shop, I purchased seats that were thicker, machined em down some on my lathe. Then used my Neway seat cutters to dial em all in. Seemed to work out alright.
Amazing that we used to have to pull heads every 30k miles to (at least!) re-lap the valves, or do a complete valve job if we weren't lucky. Engines and materials have come a long way. Lovely work as always - thank you for sharing what you do!
Fuels and oils have got much better as well..... as has air filtration.... so engines these days theoretically do not self-generate as much "grinding paste" internally as they used to..
@@a4000t Yes. Modern cars don't even come with stainless vales, but they still hold up. This is why when someone needs and old head rebuilt, I tell them to buy new exhaust valves, even if they can be recut. Unleaded fuel might not wear the valve as much as the seat, but it certainly wears the old part faster than the manufacturer expected.
Correct. There's tons of old dudes (i'm not exactly young either) babbling about how much better and better made everything, especially cars, used to be - only to fall silent when asked how often they need to do valve job or adjust carburetor nowdays, replace or file points, check ignition timing or do they need to do something regarding intake air heating when winter comes. Old stuff tended to be somewhat more repairable, but that's just because it needed lot more repairs. Same dudes complained here in Nordics when ethanol was added to fuel, even though they added it to fuel tank themself from a fuel antifreeze bottle (pure ethanol to remove water from fuel system) for much higher price. Don't get me wrong, i feel nostalgia towards cars of my youth too, but i wouldn't want one as my daily driver - modern cars are just so much nicer, more reliable and way safer.
@@ninefingerdeathgrip Where I live, this is why some people miss the Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla of the late 80s and most of the 1990s. They had most of the durability of modern cars, without so much excessive Knight Rider junk. Odds are, if you had a check engine light, an unfolded paper clip and a few affordable parts solved the problem. The one thing that did suck was that most had a timing belt. Nobody needs that BS. Also, some people aren't exactly wrong about old cars holding up well. During the 70s and 80s, few cars were as tough and serviceable as a Volvo brick or mechanical injection diesel Mercedes.
Great video and very much enjoy the commentary! I'm an attorney but also a licensed A&P mechanic (Airframe & Powerplant) for my weekend endeavors. I enjoy watching these videos because I have no clue about automobile engines and at 52 I'm always willing to learn new things
Loving your videos. Brings back so many memories of my time as an automotive machinist. I started my apprenticeship in 1964 when I was 15 going on 16. I learned all the aspects of the trade even remetalling babbit (white metal). My favourite was the crankshaft grinding. I thing from memory that it was a German Schou. The shop was more mass production of reconditioned engines - mainly Holden and Ford. The only photo I have of those days is me line boring a 6 cylinder Holden engine about 1966. I tried to upload the photo but was unable to. It's great that you and your Dad can work together.
I have no experience in a machine shop, just a burgeoning shade tree mechanic. I love watching the technical precision clearly required and executed to do any of the work you're doing. Don't forget that your work is part of the greater story of every vehicle you touch. Keep it coming!
Wonderful watching you recut valve faces. Graduated from AAI in 1971 and they had only a few of the tools you have. The industry has made great strides since then.
I am always impressed with your cleanliness, machines and tooling, attention to detail, craftsmanship and "race engine" precision even on a pony engine.
Love these longer videos. I enjoy the machining process. These little engines will definitely be breathing a whole lot better with this machine work. Thank you for sharing sir.
Great little Continental engine.. simple and reliable. Fixed many fitted in Clark, Hyster and Caterpillar fork trucks many years back. Just love all the tooling and machines you and the cleaner use..
I once got a job making some tools (punches and pullers) for a local restorer who needed to remove valve guides and cam bearings from his Austin 7 engines. The Austin has a lot in common with the subject of this video, being a diminutive sidevalve inline 4. It even has similar squared off ports. There is one big difference though, the cylinders are a separate iron casting that is bolted to the aluminium block. Also the Austin has only two main bearings, presumably the crankshaft whips and bends like a noodle in there when the engine is running! Was a fun little side gig to work on, I also ended up making some jigs so he could drill exhaust manifolds and align the lifter guides in their bores.
Back in the day i used the Kwik-Way #10 carbide fixed seat cutters,they were quite expensive but a no brainer having the press fit ground in to them,so no calculating interference fit. A real time saver.
Superb piece of work! The cleaning guy taught you well. He's pretty handy round the shop isn't he? Sweeper upper, crank grinder, block and head washer, teacher and a FARMER, last but not least a good all round DAD! Keep up the good work guys. Cheers from England
...I once owned a Lincoln welder with a Continental engine about this size...hand-crank...! But it did also have an electric starter...then, a forklift with even smaller motor...valves in the head..pushrods... Very nice to see you check/re-grind those 'new' valves...I've owned several Harley-Davidson Sportster Iron Head and older Knuckleheads...all have iron heads...I've bought New Harley valves and found them way out of tolerances that I'd like to have....especially when these valves are $25-30 each...and that old wooden 'valve stick'....still hard to beat...!
The Willys military Jeep I drove on Okinawa and Iwo Jima in 1954 had an “F” head engine with intakes in the head and exhaust valves in the block. Displacement was 134 C. I.
To an ADHD brain, there is something very soothing and relaxing to watching engine blocks and heads getting machined. It also holds my attention very well. Awesome work. Thank you.
While the description says "tool only" it does come with one each of a bi-metal th-cam.com/users/postUgkx0vyBwjtx9GGOuiqUVT2sRoYqmDoNT_RI and HCS blade plus an adaptor plate for non-DeWalt blades. Wish I had known that before I bought the blade kit, but oh well. Since I already have a DeWalt drill, charger and batteries there was no need to buy more of those so this was a great deal.There is one other consideration. DeWalt does't sell the depth guide separately so you need to buy the three parts which make it up -- the N275350 block assy, the N275341 metal rod and the N278801 knob. Amazon does sell all three.
tight tolerances, going by the book, but still using experience, exacting craftsmanship carefull, thorough & caring !! This kind of work is worth the big big bucks I would like you to put a copy of the bill in every video you make
fantastic videos guys as always, love it! one quick question - not sure if the video was edited in the exact order, but you checked the contact patch on the seats, then after that, reground the valves? i would have thought the newly reground valves should be the gauge for the seat cutting? surely grinding the valve faces after the seats is going to drop the valves slightly? please keep this content coming, one of my favourite channels !
I will say one thing. Massey made some good motors as long as they were taken care of. I have a to35 that fires rite up just needs a clutch job. A friend has a to 20 that runs like a top. I enjoy the videos and interested in how the AC tractors are doing. We like AC tractors also. My friend has a wd45, D19, xt190, 7020. Used to harvest with Gleaner F combines.
Doing a Kohler 38 cubic inch, 4-cylinder engine with very similar size valve gear-but it's OHV and 7mm valve stems. The rust cancer has been hard to deal with on that cylinder head as well.
You guys might be able to use the Tooling from Goodson that you needed to purchase on other cylinder heads such as on smaller 4 strroke outboards and on the 4 & 5 Valved motorcycle Cylinder Heads.Keep up the good work Fellas,i enjoy watching your work with the Serdi.I used to operated a couple diff boring bars at our shop(AMI and A Kwickway,AN Model)and i still have A old Sunnen Honing Machine that was in my Gramps shop that actually still works,We sold our Dealership 20 yrs ago and i had a small machine shop with a few decent machines to take care of the Machining needs on the Motorcycles and Boat motors we sold and Did repairs/Rebuilds on.
The machines sure have changed a lot since I started and retired in the trade. You guys are awesome and some of the best at what you do compared to a lot of the fools who don't have a clue as to what they are doing.
Do you find that different manufacturers cast iron quality varies and which brand is considered to be premium as for machineability and resistance to corrosion..👍
Cast iron does vary, the best cast iron engines had a high nickel content. They are hard on tool bits, but they resist wear much better. The Buick Nailhead had a higher nickel content than many other GM engines of the time. As a result, nobody puts hardened valve seats in them to handle unleaded fuel. They only recut valve seats.
Some thoughts 1) I was believing that the valves were generally just cut into the iron on engines of this vintage. Did all the Continentals come from the factory with hardened seats? 2) They must not have had much faith in their valve materials if they left the stems so very large on such small valves. 3) NOS parts can be a problem as it seemed that rejects often worked their way into the service part stocks. I had a 39 year old car that I was rebuilding the transmission on and the idler shafts were available but according to the experts they were all out of round just enough to be a problem. We knew a guy who ran a grinding shop and had him run off 200 of the shafts new and the transmissions with these were much better.
At 14:19 and 14:32 a crack appears to be visible between the valve bore and the far right cylinder. In earlier and later points in the video it isn’t there. Just some artifact or debris ?
Nice job, this is what i want to see, machining done properly, not just quickly out of the door, it is hard to find a good machine shop today, we had a Cat C15 head in machine shop getting rebuilt, it came back assemled, but it was not even washed, it was dirty.
Great vid thanks Allen interesting how you added the extra cylinder and changed the crank from 3x3 120degrees to 4x 90 degrees I presume , being a two stroke no problems with vave timing etc. How did you get the ignition to work with the different piston tdc positions your ingenious mind no doubt sorted it to perfection.
I really enjoy your videos and am very impressed with your confidence. At the risk of sounding stupid I want to ask you about the new guides. Do guides like this use a seal?
Our shop does work for several local motorcycle and outdoor motorsports and we do work for the diesel industry. I have machined valves and seats with serdi and sunnen tooling from over 3" 1/2 stem to under .5 with 4mm stems. lots of fun
I have wotked on a number of those engs as they were also used in tennet sweepers and cub farmalls the cub was said to have 3 main brgs but I havent seen one.
i noticed you measured the deck of the block to the top of the guide before you resurfacing the deck, you said you get it within 10,000ths but you took a total of 11,000ths off one of the blocks, just courise if you double check that measurment after resurfacing or does it not matter that much?
I double triple quadruple check when I use them. But I’m hoping to invest in some Mitutoyo Holtest 3 point inside micrometers sometime. Eliminate as much error as I can.
I find it best to keep the misalignment prior to pulling them through in the bore as small as possible. For whatever reason if they get compressed too much they always seem to spring back out slightly.
What are non metric measurements called in the u.s.? In Australia we went metric in 1973 and I worked as a mechanic in the late 70's and have heard non metric called imperial, sae and I even had someone give me a set of whitworth spanners that didn't seem to fit anything.
Many people either call it "Standard" or "Fractional." I did have an automotive teacher that hated when people didn't call measurements exactly what they were in the book. We had a torque wrench in foot pounds. If someone asked for the specification, someone would geive the number, without the unit. 100! 100 what?!
Man you guys are grade a machinists. I have had multiple times where I paid a professional to redo valves and they fucked them up. Got out of being a mechanic for shit like that because I ended up eating way to much cost on shit because of someone elses fuck up.
Thanks, nice video. They look pretty wide, no 30 or 60 degree cuts? Also, just because you can install seats doesn't mean you should, did they really need intakes?
I run a Ford Flathead in my truck , do you guys do any valve to piston relief - cuts ? I have mixed feelings about that as I know it reduces the compression ratio / psi .
I worked for an aerospace company. We used a product called rustlick. After all of that machining have you ever thought about using WD-40 to help prevent the rust coming back?
I had a continental block, the pockets for the seat inserts were machined way too deep on 2 cyls. I was the 3rd rebuilder. Not having access to a full/pro machine shop, I purchased seats that were thicker, machined em down some on my lathe. Then used my Neway seat cutters to dial em all in. Seemed to work out alright.
Amazing that we used to have to pull heads every 30k miles to (at least!) re-lap the valves, or do a complete valve job if we weren't lucky. Engines and materials have come a long way. Lovely work as always - thank you for sharing what you do!
Fuels and oils have got much better as well.....
as has air filtration....
so engines these days theoretically do not self-generate as much "grinding paste" internally as they used to..
Those old valves were soft as butter. Even going to a stainless quality valve on a cast seat survives unleaded fuels quite well.
@@a4000t Yes. Modern cars don't even come with stainless vales, but they still hold up. This is why when someone needs and old head rebuilt, I tell them to buy new exhaust valves, even if they can be recut. Unleaded fuel might not wear the valve as much as the seat, but it certainly wears the old part faster than the manufacturer expected.
Correct. There's tons of old dudes (i'm not exactly young either) babbling about how much better and better made everything, especially cars, used to be - only to fall silent when asked how often they need to do valve job or adjust carburetor nowdays, replace or file points, check ignition timing or do they need to do something regarding intake air heating when winter comes. Old stuff tended to be somewhat more repairable, but that's just because it needed lot more repairs. Same dudes complained here in Nordics when ethanol was added to fuel, even though they added it to fuel tank themself from a fuel antifreeze bottle (pure ethanol to remove water from fuel system) for much higher price. Don't get me wrong, i feel nostalgia towards cars of my youth too, but i wouldn't want one as my daily driver - modern cars are just so much nicer, more reliable and way safer.
@@ninefingerdeathgrip Where I live, this is why some people miss the Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla of the late 80s and most of the 1990s. They had most of the durability of modern cars, without so much excessive Knight Rider junk. Odds are, if you had a check engine light, an unfolded paper clip and a few affordable parts solved the problem.
The one thing that did suck was that most had a timing belt. Nobody needs that BS.
Also, some people aren't exactly wrong about old cars holding up well. During the 70s and 80s, few cars were as tough and serviceable as a Volvo brick or mechanical injection diesel Mercedes.
Great video and very much enjoy the commentary! I'm an attorney but also a licensed A&P mechanic (Airframe & Powerplant) for my weekend endeavors. I enjoy watching these videos because I have no clue about automobile engines and at 52 I'm always willing to learn new things
Bonus! A valid excuse for buying more tools!
Always look forward to watching both your short and long videos.
Loving your videos. Brings back so many memories of my time as an automotive machinist. I started my apprenticeship in 1964 when I was 15 going on 16. I learned all the aspects of the trade even remetalling babbit (white metal). My favourite was the crankshaft grinding. I thing from memory that it was a German Schou. The shop was more mass production of reconditioned engines - mainly Holden and Ford. The only photo I have of those days is me line boring a 6 cylinder Holden engine about 1966. I tried to upload the photo but was unable to. It's great that you and your Dad can work together.
I have no experience in a machine shop, just a burgeoning shade tree mechanic. I love watching the technical precision clearly required and executed to do any of the work you're doing. Don't forget that your work is part of the greater story of every vehicle you touch. Keep it coming!
....did I see a video of y'all doing some flat head work?....nice mill....and toys....pax....rew
Wonderful watching you recut valve faces. Graduated from AAI in 1971 and they had only a few of the tools you have. The industry has made great strides since then.
I am always impressed with your cleanliness, machines and tooling, attention to detail, craftsmanship and "race engine" precision even on a pony engine.
Love these longer videos. I enjoy the machining process. These little engines will definitely be breathing a whole lot better with this machine work. Thank you for sharing sir.
Great little Continental engine.. simple and reliable. Fixed many fitted in Clark, Hyster and Caterpillar fork trucks many years back. Just love all the tooling and machines you and the cleaner use..
Damn it! The person hammering in the background during the seat grinding on the second block almost gave me a heart attack!
I once got a job making some tools (punches and pullers) for a local restorer who needed to remove valve guides and cam bearings from his Austin 7 engines. The Austin has a lot in common with the subject of this video, being a diminutive sidevalve inline 4. It even has similar squared off ports. There is one big difference though, the cylinders are a separate iron casting that is bolted to the aluminium block. Also the Austin has only two main bearings, presumably the crankshaft whips and bends like a noodle in there when the engine is running! Was a fun little side gig to work on, I also ended up making some jigs so he could drill exhaust manifolds and align the lifter guides in their bores.
I think this engine only has two main bearings also. An earlier video showed this.
I don't know why, but my favorite part of your videos is when you resurface the block.
Back in the day i used the Kwik-Way #10 carbide fixed seat cutters,they were quite expensive but a no brainer having the press fit ground in to them,so no calculating interference fit. A real time saver.
Superb piece of work! The cleaning guy taught you well. He's pretty handy round the shop isn't he? Sweeper upper, crank grinder, block and head washer, teacher and a FARMER, last but not least a good all round DAD! Keep up the good work guys. Cheers from England
A lot of knowledge goes in to every step.
I wish my Dr. was as throe when I ask him to fix something rather than find a treatment.
You guys Rock!
They are so cute! Small stuff, still takes a lot of time and care. Great work as usual.
Sometimes it takes more! Like this where it requires investing in more tools! Lol
I would of put one on my key chain
Beautiful work as always, very satisfying to watch!
LoL on the first valve seat removal I caught my self blowing at the filing from the head what a idiot 😮
Jay Leno described Honda 6 cylinder CBX bike valves are like golf tees. Love these videos.
There's something MAGICAL about watching metal being machined.
To me it feels like staring at an aquarium, it relaxes me so much. 👌🙂👍
Imperial to metric is pretty easy to convert. 25:32 is 19.8437mm.
25 divided by 32 multiplied by 25.4 gives you the number in millimetre 🙂
Yeah i would have just said 20mm it's within tolerance
...I once owned a Lincoln welder with a Continental engine about this size...hand-crank...! But it did also have an electric starter...then, a forklift with even smaller motor...valves in the head..pushrods...
Very nice to see you check/re-grind those 'new' valves...I've owned several Harley-Davidson Sportster Iron Head and older Knuckleheads...all have iron heads...I've bought New Harley valves and found them way out of tolerances that I'd like to have....especially when these valves are $25-30 each...and that old wooden 'valve stick'....still hard to beat...!
I always wondered what the miniature side of my dads valve lapper was for!
5:50 What are you using to lubricate the cutter? I was taught to NEVER lube cast iron when machining.
So now everyone can be sure to bring you their jeep engines
The Willys military Jeep I drove on Okinawa and Iwo Jima in 1954 had an “F” head engine with intakes in the head and exhaust valves in the block. Displacement was 134 C. I.
And the flat head for the ww2 and early cj Jeeps was also 134 CID.
Damn similar motor
@@Frankensteins_Highboy The Metalshaper channel has both, I found it fascinating.
You and your cleaner are the best. Hands down
To an ADHD brain, there is something very soothing and relaxing to watching engine blocks and heads getting machined. It also holds my attention very well. Awesome work. Thank you.
Just had to say the attention to detail is fantastic, great work guys and that includes the cleaning guy 😊
the way an engine should be remachined, nothing less.
excellent work
very good video
I got to replace the exhaust seats on a 1929 Wakashaw. Had to borrow vintage tools to get the job done. Lot's of fun!
Do you mean "Waukesha"? 😂
@@bobbydazzler6990 Tomatoes, tomatoes, I'm just a hick boy from Chino CA.
While the description says "tool only" it does come with one each of a bi-metal th-cam.com/users/postUgkx0vyBwjtx9GGOuiqUVT2sRoYqmDoNT_RI and HCS blade plus an adaptor plate for non-DeWalt blades. Wish I had known that before I bought the blade kit, but oh well. Since I already have a DeWalt drill, charger and batteries there was no need to buy more of those so this was a great deal.There is one other consideration. DeWalt does't sell the depth guide separately so you need to buy the three parts which make it up -- the N275350 block assy, the N275341 metal rod and the N278801 knob. Amazon does sell all three.
Respect for your attention to detail. Thank you for cultivating a fine work ethic.
good job! love vids. Really like the fun with The Whippersnapper & The Cleaning Guy. Thanks, Nick!
tight tolerances, going by the book, but still using experience, exacting craftsmanship
carefull, thorough & caring !!
This kind of work is worth the big big bucks
I would like you to put a copy of the bill in every video you make
fantastic videos guys as always, love it! one quick question - not sure if the video was edited in the exact order, but you checked the contact patch on the seats, then after that, reground the valves? i would have thought the newly reground valves should be the gauge for the seat cutting? surely grinding the valve faces after the seats is going to drop the valves slightly? please keep this content coming, one of my favourite channels !
I will never rebuild a block but I love the precision milling nonetheless.
Very nice guys. Always love the machining.
Nice work, it's nice having those awsome tools.
In my opinion, you are the most disciplined at work. Cheers guys 👍
Wow, there is so much to know , you can't half do this and the engine hold up ! This is fascinating to watch !
Your machine work is unreal!! Enjoy watching your repairs!! Thank you and yes I am subscribed to your channel. :)
Another awesome display of machining excellence!
awesome work on those blocks!!
massive respect to all of you guys
I love a job that needs new tools. It means I'm growing.
I will say one thing. Massey made some good motors as long as they were taken care of. I have a to35 that fires rite up just needs a clutch job. A friend has a to 20 that runs like a top. I enjoy the videos and interested in how the AC tractors are doing. We like AC tractors also. My friend has a wd45, D19, xt190, 7020. Used to harvest with Gleaner F combines.
Top notch machine work. Many shops could take a lesson from you!!
How much to do a ixb3 hercules
Doing a Kohler 38 cubic inch, 4-cylinder engine with very similar size valve gear-but it's OHV and 7mm valve stems. The rust cancer has been hard to deal with on that cylinder head as well.
Being an old motor head I find this very interesting. THANK YOU 🙏
You guys might be able to use the Tooling from Goodson that you needed to purchase on other cylinder heads such as on smaller 4 strroke outboards and on the 4 & 5 Valved motorcycle Cylinder Heads.Keep up the good work Fellas,i enjoy watching your work with the Serdi.I used to operated a couple diff boring bars at our shop(AMI and A Kwickway,AN Model)and i still have A old Sunnen Honing Machine that was in my Gramps shop that actually still works,We sold our Dealership 20 yrs ago and i had a small machine shop with a few decent machines to take care of the Machining needs on the Motorcycles and Boat motors we sold and Did repairs/Rebuilds on.
You give the cleaning guy breaks? Wow, you're too good to him!
😅
A bit of a mess, but your work is masterful. Thank you for this video!
Thanks for watching!
The machines sure have changed a lot since I started and retired in the trade. You guys are awesome and some of the best at what you do compared to a lot of the fools who don't have a clue as to what they are doing.
Do you find that different manufacturers cast iron quality varies and which brand is considered to be premium as for machineability and resistance to corrosion..👍
Cast iron does vary, the best cast iron engines had a high nickel content. They are hard on tool bits, but they resist wear much better.
The Buick Nailhead had a higher nickel content than many other GM engines of the time. As a result, nobody puts hardened valve seats in them to handle unleaded fuel. They only recut valve seats.
Some thoughts
1) I was believing that the valves were generally just cut into the iron on engines of this vintage. Did all the Continentals come from the factory with hardened seats?
2) They must not have had much faith in their valve materials if they left the stems so very large on such small valves.
3) NOS parts can be a problem as it seemed that rejects often worked their way into the service part stocks. I had a 39 year old car that I was rebuilding the transmission on and the idler shafts were available but according to the experts they were all out of round just enough to be a problem. We knew a guy who ran a grinding shop and had him run off 200 of the shafts new and the transmissions with these were much better.
I so want one of these cute engine blocks
Beautiful work! I envy your skills.
At 14:19 and 14:32 a crack appears to be visible between the valve bore and the far right cylinder. In earlier and later points in the video it isn’t there. Just some artifact or debris ?
Smudge. Not a crack.
Nice job, this is what i want to see, machining done properly, not just quickly out of the door, it is hard to find a good machine shop today, we had a Cat C15 head in machine shop getting rebuilt, it came back assemled, but it was not even washed, it was dirty.
Great vid thanks Allen interesting how you added the extra cylinder and changed the crank from 3x3 120degrees to 4x 90 degrees I presume , being a two stroke no problems with vave timing etc. How did you get the ignition to work with the different piston tdc positions your ingenious mind no doubt sorted it to perfection.
In thirty years I never had to use that micrometer to set cutting dia for a false set. Nice video thank you.
I really enjoy your videos and am very impressed with your confidence. At the risk of sounding stupid I want to ask you about the new guides. Do guides like this use a seal?
Every video shows top quality 👌🏽
What would you charge for head work and block work for a 1960 ford 292 Y block v8?
Thanks for the longer machining segmants!
Investing in tools is never a waste.
Learning every time that I watch your video!
Wonderful. Thanks for sharing.
Just found your channel brother love it keep up the great work
Our shop does work for several local motorcycle and outdoor motorsports and we do work for the diesel industry. I have machined valves and seats with serdi and sunnen tooling from over 3" 1/2 stem to under .5 with 4mm stems. lots of fun
Mesmerizing. I just love it!
I have wotked on a number of those engs as they were also used in tennet sweepers and cub farmalls the cub was said to have 3 main brgs but I havent seen one.
But can they work on the 1.8T 20 valve Audi head? If so I got a 2 heads they needs new valve guides.
What's up, cleaning guy! Hope break is going well!!
Didn’t get a notification even though I have them on. glad I found this video really enjoy them
i noticed you measured the deck of the block to the top of the guide before you resurfacing the deck, you said you get it within 10,000ths but you took a total of 11,000ths off one of the blocks, just courise if you double check that measurment after resurfacing or does it not matter that much?
That was going to be my queation, as well!
On telescopic gauges I've only had starrett gauges work correctly. I use a rocking motion in the mic to measure the distance of the tele gauge .
I double triple quadruple check when I use them. But I’m hoping to invest in some Mitutoyo Holtest 3 point inside micrometers sometime. Eliminate as much error as I can.
@@JAMSIONLINE those ID mics are the best , boy are they pricey
Yeah the price hurts my soul 🤮
I find it best to keep the misalignment prior to pulling them through in the bore as small as possible. For whatever reason if they get compressed too much they always seem to spring back out slightly.
Great job of explaining your work. I have a Massey Ferguson 1968, with a continental engine. What’s the cost to do the work?
What are non metric measurements called in the u.s.? In Australia we went metric in 1973 and I worked as a mechanic in the late 70's and have heard non metric called imperial, sae and I even had someone give me a set of whitworth spanners that didn't seem to fit anything.
Many people either call it "Standard" or "Fractional."
I did have an automotive teacher that hated when people didn't call measurements exactly what they were in the book.
We had a torque wrench in foot pounds. If someone asked for the specification, someone would geive the number, without the unit. 100! 100 what?!
Great video as always but should have more Cleaning Guy action.
Coming soon! Lol
this build is looking nice
Man you guys are grade a machinists. I have had multiple times where I paid a professional to redo valves and they fucked them up. Got out of being a mechanic for shit like that because I ended up eating way to much cost on shit because of someone elses fuck up.
Jim i am looking for a machine shop to cut 1/2 stemp exhaist valve let me know
As in regrinding valves?
Hey, I saw a yellow Courier in some other videos, I'd love to see some pictures or videos of it! Looks real cool, I have a couple of them myself
Is that a glycol based cutting lubricant?
Works for me.well done.
Is there any difference, other than color, between the red, blue and green dyes used?
Not that I know of lol but red looks like blood haha
How small are the valves ??
Thanks, nice video. They look pretty wide, no 30 or 60 degree cuts? Also, just because you can install seats doesn't mean you should, did they really need intakes?
Great work as always.😄😄
I run a Ford Flathead in my truck , do you guys do any valve to piston relief - cuts ?
I have mixed feelings about that as I know it reduces the compression ratio / psi .
People who do it often install high compression heads. It more than makes up the difference.
love watching you videos as asmr
you always talk about decking the block but do you shave the top of the pistons i would like to see how you do that
Very rarely necessary. If a situation ever arises where it is I’ll have a video.
I worked for an aerospace company. We used a product called rustlick. After all of that machining have you ever thought about using WD-40 to help prevent the rust coming back?
What lube you using in the bottle water , WD 40, mineral spirits, 🤔
Grinding coolant lol. It’s not the right thing to use but it works.
Nice they way they turned out 😊😊😊😊😊👍👍👍👍👍
Hey cleaning guy, you know the shop rules say no fooling around on the internet during work hours! 😁
metric conversion of imperial inciments its easy and 25/32 is 19,84375mm
Goodmorning love your video s .serdi has head and toolhoolder for small valve s nr off plate is E 1 and E 2.Greeting