Old diesels are usually only trouble if driven by people that always do short journeys and never rev them above 2,000rpm. Service them on time, give them a longer run occasionally and allow them to rev high enough to burn off the particulates and they are usually okay.
@Adrian CV Political pressure over particulates in populated places (try saying that when you're drunk). Basically diesels put out a lot of particulates that affect the lungs though this is mostly only a problem in cities and high population density parts of the country where people live besides busy roads. It also conveniently ignores the fact that petrol cars are quite low in toxic emissions when new but get worse as they age but diesel engines tend to stay the same as they age (if properly maintained).
@Adrian CV I agree that CO2 emissions are important as well. I suppose if you live in an affected area then particulates are important. I live in a relatively low population area in windy and wet Scotland, so I have no problem with driving a diesel car. If I travel into the city I usually take the train. I suppose the answer is to introduce congestion charges which is what they are doing. In a few years it will all be irrelevant as EVs take over and the number of diesel (and petrol) cars on the road drop to levels that will make the air much safer for people living in these areas.
@@Chris-hw4mq No it isn't. The materials for lithium ion batteries are easily recoverable from old batteries or from green sources, the motors are much more simple with far fewer parts, the cars require far less maintenance and the energy to run the car is easily generated from renewable source. And most progressive countries are mostly generating their energy from renewable source though a few backward countries aren't.
I'd say (in this order): 1. Fuel filter (+ Air filter while you are at it) 2. Vacuum leaks 3. MAF-sensor 4. Leak test fuel injectors 5. EGR-vent (clean or change, not very fun), and while changing/cleaning it change the high pressure sensor 6. DPF-clean 7. Fuel pump (least likely it is very well built) I'd buy that car in a heartbeat, that seven step list applies to all PSA-diesels with and without error codes and hesitant behavior, point 7 is really expensive but 1-6 is cheap (monetary) if you don't account for the work.
Sensible list. Many say glow plugs - not needed to start at that temp, so glad you haven't suggested those! Start with Fuel filter as you say since it is a service item and good to eliminate. Usually worse though when asking for more fuel not idling. Vacuum leaks often make it hard to start but OK once going. I believe he sold it, but still useful to know these things. My money is dirty injectors or EGR valve not closing fully. Can unplug a MAF sensor to check it's not that. Can check injector leak off by doing a full acceleration test. Third gear and rev it out with foot flat to floor. Get an error code flagged up/engine limp mode.
Hi James, try looking at the fuel filter .. may be blocked or a seal leaking on one of the hoses drawing in air .. shine a tourch through the clear return hose and see if bubbles are being returned back to the tank .. Hope this helps
I worked for Peugeot/Kia for decades until last year.Change Fuel Filter for an OE spec not a moody pattern one.Also never knew until 4 years ago,there is such a thing as summer & winter diesel the latter has antifreeze agents in it to stop waxy fuel in cold temps.The Kia 1.7 Diesel engines in fact were being recovered to us over one winter,awaiting a complete new fuel filter housing with uprated fuel heater.We asked the customers what fuel had been used mostly cheap supermarket,in these we sent the fuel away for inspection,it was summer fuel being used in winter.Hope this may help you,good luck 👍
Never knew about winter/summer diesel, interesting to know 👍. Did Kia pay out for the repairs (if covered by warranty) or was it the customers who had to pay out of their own pocket.
@@Mark... Its similar to the petrol engines that are predominantly designed to run on 98 RON,keep filling them up with 95 or lower do short journeys and wait for the problems to come calling.To their credit Kia paid for most under warranty,even though it wasn't their fuel that caused it,only a few exceptions.
@@Mark... Winter diesel used to be more important to trucks/buses when starting from cold at 4am , or in Scotland, present winters dont seem to be as cold (though are cooler than summer highs obviously), but then you get a few days of minus oh damm thats cold.
Hi James, I am currently working on one of these for a friend of mine. It's the same spec and year as this and yes, they are a really nice car. If this is the 2.0 hdi, it is the same engine as fitted to Ford Mondeo Mk4. Firstly check the oil level or more to the point that the end of the dipstick has not broken off - the garage filled my friend's car with 7.5 litres of oil, which didn't help anything. Also check vacuum hose connections, there is one on top of the vaccuum pump these are easily broken and the plastic gets brittle with age. Also where the vacuum hoses join the inlent manifold moulding - these are difficult to see (need a mirror) and are at the back of the engine near the bulkhead. I had to remove them when removing the inlet manifold they may have been missed if the manifold had been removed in the past. This might not help - but worth a look. Oh yes, at 145k it will need a cambelt if not had one already. If you are going to change the cambelt be carefull when loosening the crank pulley nut.
Our Diesel 508SW worked fantastically after a local garage undid 7 years of franchised Peugeot neglect. At 100k the AdBlue reservoir was empty, rear fuel filter was still the factory one, the square fuel filter was also original. We changed the atf and the car gave us 4 more years service until someone t-boned it whilst under-taking.
As already mentioned below, the Pug 2.0HDI is virtually bulletproof. I had a 406 with that engine and it was still going strong with no problems at 200,000 miles. Good durable engine. The fault codes might enlighten you. I doubt if its anything serious like the pump because if it was you'd be having problems warm as well.
@@robprior1246 145k Too many miles? None of our diesel-engined cars have done less than 300,000 miles, one doing 450,000 and still going strong when sold. Change the oil & filter at regular intervals & avoid very short journeys where possible & a good diesel will serve you well. (Retired ex diesel tech)
It's a PSA 2.0 HDi... those things are pretty bomb proof. Start with reading the codes... dash shows it's overdue a service, last I remember it was 18k on these which means it's now 20k on a service schedule that's already too long.. and fuel filter get's changed every other service, which means 40k on the old one. Good quality fuel filter (Purflux or Bosch), make sure the rubber O ring is replaced... start from there.
You'll want to be out of your mind to let any engine go 18 thousand miles on the same oil....the manufacturers only do this for convenience for the majority of the population who are ether to lazy or haven't a clue what an engine is...don't forget once the warranty is up after 4 or 5 years the manufacturers are off the hook...5 thousand if you want the engine to last ....as for diesel filter 40k .......I'm almost lost for words....have you seen a diesel filter after 20k there black with gunk...it's a good way to tank a HPP...again every 5k and it will run forever....what makes more sense 40 quid every 6 mounts or so for new oil filter and diesel filter or 10 grand for a new engine and new fuel system....
@@nightstorm9128 I wasn't suggesting people *should* service their cars at that interval, just pointing out that people *do*. I suggest a service every 10k. Fuel and air filter will be fine every 20k however for MPG gains and also looking into the fuel pot for any glitter for a faulty fuel pump, suggest doing it at 10k. 5k / 6 months is a pointless waste of money, I've serviced every 10k and took two engines past 200/250k miles easy, no engine issues whatsoever. Fuel pump / injectors were fine too. Most either engine ever needed was £20 for a crank sensor and £80 for a FPR on the other.
@@nightstorm9128 that's kilometers ... 18.000 kilometers not miles, but my 2014 XC90 D5 has 20.000km (12.000 miles) interval too .. I only do 15.000km and only on Amsoil
@@tellyonthewall8751 A lot of manufacturers have an option called “long life” which is 18k miles, this is sold as a bonus for fleet sales as it halves the service costs on the flip side whoever gets the car after the fleet user is playing a lottery as to the lifespan of the engine, personally I’ve never let a car go over 10k between oil and 20k for a major service
I've seen this issue on more than one occasion and 90% of the time its been down to air in the fuel system mainly caused by the engine compartment fuel pipe work. The other 10% is injectors.
For what you paid for it James I’d just run it as your own daily driver, at least during the next few months anyway and enjoy those heated seats. It sounds like your daughter likes it aswell. Hopefully while your using it some fault codes start to appear so you then have a better idea of what it actually need spending on it. It’s at a value now where you can use it for a few months and it still won’t be worth any less than it is now.
I think it's worth more to you to keep and use it yourself, as Alister Cowe has said above check the fuel filter seal first, my father in law has one of these and its mileage is 170k+ and he loves it
James, I'd take the bugger as it is! At this time I'm running a geriatric Ford Galaxy 2.3 twin cam with a few more issues than this car. Pity I've just bought myself another motor bike. I do have the advantage of working in the motor trade and Peugeot is in our chain. Having had cars from main dealers with far worse problems than this, a minor issue when cold is no problem at all. That is a really nice car. Keep up the good work and thanks for this last year.
Yep, that pretty much sums it up.... The bloke wanted a grand, as he was flying out that day. He should have said £500, or you keep it...... We Buy Any Car offer you bugger all, or used to years ago. They obviously offered less than a grand......
@@Brian-om2hh I know it's a totally different car but they gave my brother more for his EV Kia Soul than he reckoned he could get privately. Then when he got to the WBAC place they increased the offer after a manual look over it. Bro was well pleased. 😄
I had this exact issue but with the Toyota 2.0 D4D in a 2008 Avensis. Turns out it was the suction control valve on the side of the fuel pump. Easily accessible and replaced it myself. The part was £40. The hard part was working it out. Good luck!
I had a Pug 307 Hdi here in Australia & in the 10 yrs I'd had it, clocked up 330,000km without too many issues initially , though in the last few months of owning it the DPF was on the way out & 2 injector seals were starting to fade. Whacked it over to a hyundai i30 diesel which has been brilliant
Lots of good insights and advice below James, and I think it would be worth your while to get more of a feel for diesels, as this may sound odd, but Diesel is very much a genuinely renewable fuel for the future, given how Extremeky cheap Ultra Clean Synthetic Fuels are likely to be making an appearance, via Plasma Gasification Waste to Energy with Syngas Production. For insight, UK Waste annually can deliver about 4 times the amount of diesel presently used by the USA every single year, and imho, we are going to have to turn to it, when the Stupidity that's Electic Vehicles Fails Catastrophically and has been launched decades too early, I to completely inadequate infrastructure, that can't handle hacking attacks, let alone CME impacts taking down Power Grids for long periods (part of why nobody in their right mind should be allowing "Smart" Power and Water Meters onto their property, and should be glaring at neighbours Stupid enough to have them. Putting aside the over inclusion of vulnerable electric toys cars are burdened with today, basic facts about Diesels are their simplicity, extreme reliability, and wonderful sources of torque, and despite how badly they have been treated by service centres servicing badly or not at all, with proper care and attention, they can be brought back wonderfully. An example, a Bedford TL 7.5 ton I had, had been service Contracted with an approved Commercial Premises, that frankly would be an I suit to call them Cowboys, and you couldn't reliably co template doing a delivery further than about 20 miles away from base. Obviously this was not acceptable. I knew a very good place to get work done, that my Grandfather and u cle had always used, so I called in, to see if they could take over the servicing for me, and the owner checked the vehicle over, and some things were so bad, he wouldn't let me leave u til they had been fixed (it took a few hours), then he did a priority list starting with full service of everything to be done on the Service day he slotted me I to. After the second service, a year later, there was nowhere in Britain or Europe .I had the Confidence to go to, knowing I could get there and back with no problem. 3rd service, I was told the Lucas Fuel injection was on the way out, and gave the ok to get a replacement, which turned out to be a Bosch, which to drive with was nowhere as good as the Lucas (with the Lucas, you could pretty much steer it with throttle assistance), but I adjusted to it. Aftervevery Service done by good mechanics, you could feel the vehicle getting happier and happier, because with diesels, you get far more connected to the character of the engine, which is why for so many people, me included, Diesels become such a passion and a love affair that is really rewarding. I think over comp.icating them with masses of electronics gets in the way of all that. Start looking at diesels right James, and .I think you will find them surprisingly rewarding. Best Wishes Bob (who has driven millions of miles with diesels as a professional driver, and now I can't manage mast and Sails boats now, am looking forward to getting a boat with 2 diesel engines in it, at some point). 👍🙂🇬🇧🏴🇺🇲
Has this on my focus same engine, took it to diesel specialists they said it might be injectors wanted 1200 to replace, ended up being dirty egr valve took of blanked car runs perfect since
Old diesels just keep on chugging if you look after them. I still have a W reg 1.9tdi Scenic with 155k that I owned from 6k miles. Absolute workhorse and it runs on veggie oil.
The problem is modern diesels generally do NOT just keep on chugging away due to all the emissions hardware, and there's no way anyone can get away with trying to run a common rail diesel on vegetable oil, the injectors will last about 2 miles before getting clogged up.
@@FatHead1979 I see your point, around 2009 DPF's became quite common and that is a huge problem for many diesels. My old girl is quite happy though, she is at a point in her life where I have had my money out of her and I have saved huge sums in fuel.
@@Christopher_T_Paul Yeah, I'm still knocking about in a 2005 Focus 1.8 TDCi (80's Ford engine with the more modern bits i.e. common rail injection and turbo added) but crucially no DPF. It sounds like a tractor but with no DPF and a cast iron block/head it's pretty much indestructible! Here's to running noisy old diesel sheds! 😁
A good service with fuel filter, will probably need glow plugs looking at with the idle as these are turned on to improve the idle. Also if you do change glow plugs do the controller at the same time as the often blow each other up. I do think this will be a chap ish fix.
It was great to return home from Christmas vacation and find a bunch of Chops videos waiting for me. I can't get enough of boots and bonnets and wings. On a serious note , I was wondering why you don"t want to retail the Volvo wagon when it seems that all the work that it needs is the type of stuff that you are so good at. That is not to say that you are not good at other stuff too.
We'll assume "leaving the country" story was BS. And they know the car has a problem that they cant afford to fix. That doesn't necessarily write it off as a bad deal. First, an accurate diagnosis from someone you trust that knows how to use test equipment properly should point you in the right direction regards cost. Personally, I don't think there's enough 'fat' in these diesels to cover the potential pain after sale.
Glow plugs are functional only on the first start to help the engine start usually when the temps are under -5 Celsius, they go off right after so not the case here
@@alexandrustefan9059 They may not be taking current but on some vehicles they form a localised "hot spot" which is important to complete combustion. I bought a Land Rover Discovery engine "with a miss-fire" cheap from a well known breaker. It transpired that one glow plug wasn`t even working! When replaced the engine ran perfectly!
Or www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/01/diesel-engine-glow-plugs-not-just-for-starting-anymore/#:~:text=Even%20though%20the%20engine%20is%20running%20and%20the,typically%20be%20trapped%20in%20the%20regeneration%20filter%20%28DPF%29.
James I'm not being horrible and I mean this in the nicest way - just because you are so honest and transparent doesn't mean 90% of other people are. They will create and blag a story about anything, don't take it as gospel! I can smell bull💩 from customers from a mile off
I drove one of these back in 2013 when my brother had one as a courtesy car. Was a 2011 1.6eHDi 115 Active EGC6. Being a Citroen nut I felt right at home in it seems Pug is part of the same company. Loved the glass roof. I enjoyed driving it.
Hello from Wales. I'm sticking with my almost 25 year old, 81,000 mile Peugeot 306 turbo diesel. I was offered a part exchange for a then new HDi engined one when they first appeared but I think that almost all, if not all non IDI diesels are terribly unreliable. Too much by way of sensors, cats, particulate filters and limp modes. Have a good new year, my best regards to you and yours.
As i remember from the dealership these are pretty happy to go through the injectors, if one is bad the rest will be soon to follow. Also it's a good idea to check the cholostomy bag (Exhaust fluid). Also force a particle filter regen if possible.Did my work experience in a peugeot dealer and overall they were pretty good if used right. A scantool should tell you everything you need to know though.
I had reason to hire a van in November 2017 from Arnold Clark and what they gave me was a 17-reg Peugeot Expert the new shaped version that is more like a VW Transporter. I can remember that was a lovely diesel van to drive. When I dropped it back later in the day the guy who took it off me just said exactly the same thing.
This may not be a good route, but my Clio (admittedly a 1.2 petrol) had a similar issue. Running rough, and at one point not starting. When it was running it was fine in the upper rev range, but at idle it would splutter and stall. It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. Obviously if the ECU can't read the crank, it doesn't know when to fire. Worth checking as they are reasonably cheap.
@@andygilbert1877 not always the case. Mine had no codes whatsoever, and no check engine light, even when it was refusing to start. Some might throw a code, but they don't always. Varies depending on what's gone wrong with the sensor, and if the ECU can detect it isn't right. More modern cars like this Peugeot might well show a code, so defo worth plugging it in, but it's not guaranteed to.
@@seberous Depends on the specific system yes. I’ve seen crank sensor faults on a few Peugeot HDIs and they did throw a code. (Can’t remember which one now) The one I particularly remember was on my wife’s 206, though that caused intermittent stalling whilst running. (But the engine would restart afterwards) A sensor was about £20 at the time so I took the chance on that being the only problem and so it proved. Not always the case I know! :)
@@andygilbert1877 yes, I was the same. Intermittent stalling / rough idle / hesitation, and not starting, just turning over. New sensor was £15 so worth a try! I found cleaning it got me home until I could swap it. They certainly all seem to get to a point where they either rust over or get covered in muck or clutch dust depending where they're mounted. Luckily easy and cheap to change. Always worth trying 😂👍
Think your a bit off on your valuation. 2350 is recommended private retail so more likely a 2995 car for a trader with MOT and Warranty? I’d bang an MOT on it. Service plus fuel filter. Get an injector leak off done when cold to see if any injectors are running unevenly then go from there. Potential good 2k margin in the car gotta be worth a shot!
Loving your channel. Much appreciated your efforts to show and tell about every stock you bring in. Learning a whole lot of new experience from every video I watch. I have been in automotive bodyshop repair trade. Own a little workshop in Derby. Recently stepped into selling used cars in derby. I wonder how do you find tine to put out all these videos despite being so busy. Keep up with good work. Thank you for all your videos.
I had this car, the 508 was underrated, and not many sold. The issue here points to the EOLYS additive, needs top up and reset, (it cleans the DPF during regen on this engine) also a new fuel filter is required, the filter on these engines is small, and 40k change is too long. Finally try vPower fuel or equivalent, the additives will help clean the injectors. I doubt the fuel pressure is low or has an air leak as the rough running would be there at all temperatures: good luck.
As you mentioned, the weak fuel pump scenario is where my money would be. A good scanner should bring any problems to the surface that haven't tripped a code yet. Perhaps you could run a record as it's driven then study it on play back. If not then start with the cheapest and easiest, a clogged fuel filter perhaps or a decent injector flush? High mileage diesels can become problematic, it's their downside.
Hi James change the fuel filter on it bet it's never been done and there's sludge in it which is what caused my van to do the same thing the red transit I use
This is exactly what my 508 does, spent a fortune trying to sort it with no luck. It’s now started to do it when it warm. Had enough now, due you want another one 😂😂😂
Straight away I would take it to the mechanic to get an estimate on the stalling issue, and what it would need to pass MOT----at that point, you can make an informed decision
1.6hdi the best. I have two. One 308 with 120000 miles and a 508sw with 130000 miles on it. No issues with 308. Only issues with 508 I have found is heaters not working as they should
That is a typical symptom of fuel starvation usually caused by the fuel filter which after about 20,000 miles starts to clog up even though it’s not due for renewal some of them are supposed to last 40,000 miles but they block in as little as 15,000 plug in a scanner and read the fuel pressureFrom a cold start I bet you it fluctuates!
@@sammytheseal2307 The selling price i usually sell through the Friday ad, Has service history and 11 months MOT I can’t seem to get a definite price as some of them on order traitor of crazy like 2500 hundred!
To answer the question, are all old diesels trouble, No. A family business we had ran several Peugeot HDI cars, all had 250.000+ miles on them, plus a few Skoda Octavia's with over 300.000, we had a Hyundai Elantra diesel with 150.000, all were extrelely reliable. They need proper servicing using OE parts. I had a Kia with a similar issue, it was the fuel pump relay contacts, they were loose in the fuse board.
I had a 2.0 diesel Mondeo that did exactly the same thing. Would start perfectly and run/drive well but if it was cold it would start and cut out. Did the leak off test and found that two injectors were dodgy. At that mileage (200k) I felt it would be silly to replace only two injectors and cut my losses. That being said, I STILL don’t know if the injectors were the reason it didn’t start in the first place. Will be interesting to see where this goes.
Hi James,i`ve just bought my first Pug,a 2009 407 2.0 HDI SR, not had a great deal of success with our previous French motors but i love it to bits. Needs a starter motor and i`m gonna have a go at spannering it myself and a bit of rattlecan work too,inspired by yourself and channel obviously.
Had many a problem with the peugeot. Usually a nice spec but when they give probs... my experience: limp mode, turbo issue. Bought a new cartridge, ran ok. Importantly.. these are probably VNT and must be calibrated on a bench if that is the issue. Otherwise, EGR valve, or one of the sensors. Someone mentioned fuel filter, a good start imo with 145k. Also fuel SCV will cause 'hunting' at idle.. best of luck 🙂
@@Missed_Apex_GT it depends on the potential EGR issue, not all engines monitor EGR air flow i.e. in some cases, as long as the EGR flap is actuating as requested some engines will happily ignore the EGR being totally blocked. (or at least they won't throw an EGR related code)
Yup fuel filter , have they still got that black vessel with the filter inside and a oring seal? It's drawing air and when it heats up the rubber expands and hence why it runs good when hot. That's my first guess. Bypass the filter with a pipe and a inline petrol filter to test
I'm due to pick up a 2012 508 GT 2.2 (204ps) this week for £800. its done 204k, One previous owner and fully loaded! It's a massive departure for me as I've Owned BMW's for over 6 years now. This GT is set to take my ageing 2001 525d auto away from daily duties. The misfire could be simpily down to glow plugs. My 525d has a similar issue but doesn't die. It has long been the case that glow plugs are only used to get the car going from cold. From what I've read from comments on the BMW forum, Its apparent that glow plugs are also used to maintain a smooth idle on modern Common Rail diesels. If thats true I'm not 100%. That could potentially be your issue.
That's almost certainly a fuelling issue, especially since you get it while driving. You need a bit more fuel at cold idle while warming up, so if there's a restriction or fault causing it not to get the fuel it needs then it'll obviously cut out. Start with replacing the diesel filter and stick a bottle of injector cleaner in it, take it for a nice long high rev drive If that doesn't solve it then it's probably fuel pressure sensor or regulator If when changing the fuel filter you find metal shavings, put down the spanners and bin it, because in that case it'll be the high pressure fuel pump. The HP fuel pumps can go wrong without warning lights, which is a concern in this case
I have 61 plate 508 with 163bhp engine on it and current mileage way over 200k miles. There are some minor issues but all of them are clearly age related. Now, if I was after buying second hand reliable car for peanuts I'd buy 508.
I recently worked for a Peugeot dealer and we had a customer whose car was constantly going in and out of limp mode, and eventually stayed in it, hence his booking. On investigation it turned out that the ceramic particulate filter was severely blocked. The customer also found that acceleration was poor while cold, and although diesels do not optimally perform till warm he reported lots of flat spots even when the car had fully warmed up, until the limp mode finally kicked in full time. Once the filter was cleaned by a technician the limp mode problem was solved and the cold running improved considerably. Peugeot advise that the car should have a 10 to 20 mile run every two weeks or so at over 2K rpm, to allow the filter to warm up and burn off the gathered particulates. I have a 2014 308 e-HDI and can feel the performance start to lag if I have done too many start stop journeys, so I do as advised and it solves the problem, Although this car had done a lot of miles, it may have done few long journeys recently (lockdown/working from home?) so the filter may have become blocked. I am not a technician, but this has been my experience with cars fitted with such filters. I would also suggest that, if you have the service history and it was dealer maintained, you speak to them as they probably keep a service history. My dealer itemises issues found even if they are just advisories so they may have information for you. I hope this helps.
Those 163 HP HDI Diesel engines are good, not fast but good torque is produced from the engine. Sadly they are now Euro 5 so they can't enter congestion charge zones without paying huge tolls. I've had about 6 cars with these engines and only 1 of them has ever missed a beat sometimes after giving it stick it comes up engine fault repair needed it enters limp mode and after another start up its fine. I've found using the cruise control seems to cause the fault happens which happens irregularly but I've never known one rough like yours.
Had similar experiences with mine. After trying change fuel filter and rest simple things find out problem in fuel pressure regulator. Less that 150euro to fix. And no problems with it already over 2 years after replacing regulator.
Had a 407 10 years ago with the same issue. Discovered if I squeezed the priming bulb once or twice when it done this it would run 100% for the rest of the day, assumed air was getting into the system but sold it before I got fixing it
I've drove pretty much extensively Diesels for about ten years and had loads of little niggles usually related to carbon build up and the EGR but it's always turned out to be fixable. I like diesels but I can see the issues could be a problem when trying to flip them. I would change glow plugs fuel filter and stick some seafoam or similar through.
Most likely this is a problem with electronics and/or sensors (temperature, crankshaft position etc.). If it accelerates well then a fuel pump can be excluded. I would check a common rail ramp pressure when it is idling, just to exclude the fuel system. There might be a pressure regulator at the ramp that sticks at some position when the car is cold, the pressure check will show this.
Nice car and will be a good work Horse. I would see if you can find and fix the problem.as cheap as possible. Try the code reader to start with but does sound like a tiny air leek which is going when warm and the expansion takes place.
I have 204,000 miles on my Zafira 1.9dti and it's still going strong. Change the oil and filters regularly, and give them a good run every so often. Too much short journey low rev stuff wrecks them.
10 year old car that cost 30.000 euros new. Worth about "2500£". Absolutly insane. I bought my 2015 Peugeout 508 for 8000€ an i would call it a steal. The car consumes 5l of diesel per 100km on avarage. And the parts are very cheap. Cost me 20€ to fix the passager side window cable snap. I will probably use it for the next 10 years easy.
I had this with an old 205...there was a small airleak in the fuel hose. I found it by pumping the bulb that manually pressurises the fuel...a jet of diesel came out and hit me in the face.
I would check what people have said fuel filter dpf and so on. Honestly I would keep it and use it for a daily workhorse an estate cheaper tax than the vw caddy van you had and not holding much value. Like you said you could change so many things which gives you a smaller margin I think get the alfa sorted and sell that and daily this, I have a peugeot 308 1.6 diesel with 138k done 110000 miles with very little issues just regular servicing and my sister and a friend have peugeot diesels to they are brilliant on fuel and cheap to run.
I think you will quite likely find you have air getting into the fuel system, I have a C5 with the same engine if its a 2.0. What is likely happening is that when you park the car air is getting into the system and sitting in the fuel line. When you start the car the 'plug' of air moves through the system, enters the fuel pump and so to the injectors, once it has all passed through it will go OK for the rest of the day. Mine will sometimes not start, if it does it goes a little way then stops, you can start it again eventually, it may do the same again then run very rough and stop. If you can keep the revs up with no load you can eventually push all the air through and then it runs fine - until the next time you start it. Try priming it with the rubber bulb from cold and see if it starts OK.
Fuel cutoff solenoid on the side of the fuel pump. Had to change 2 of these. Same symptoms. Meant to be fuel pump out job but you can do it in place.. the cutoff solenoid is the same as on the suzuki Jimny. Put less than have the price of Peugeot. Same denso part number.
Another dis honest seller "thats " leaving the country lol can nobody be honest anymore disgusting the way people behave. Fairplay to you James your honesty restores my faith in people.
Hi James,good price ,buy yourself a top spec code reader, round 3k it will tell all you need to know. And whats wrong, All you are doing is guessing whats wrong
Assuming it has FSH and there isn't an EGR fault or previous owner hasn't tried to delete it then the fact that the car runs fine when warmed up means the injectors and pump and suction control valve are probably OK since faults with those components usually cause running and starting problems regardless of whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up. Might be worth checking glow plugs for condition and operation because even modern diesels still need help to start and run when cold and they will be providing heat for certain time after the engine has started - especially for DPF processes. They are consumable items and do wear out. Worth checking power supply and loom to the glow plugs for damage, loose connectors and seeing if there are any stored or pending fault codes.
Sounds like a DPF (FAP) issue.....common to modern PSA diesels - and Ford / Volvo using the french engines.....at that mileage the Eolys tank should have been refilled & reset at least once - possibly twice ( ISTR its every 70k-90k miles for the Volvo2.0d - Peugeot may be different). So may be worth checking the service records to see if its been done & when ??
Dash says 1800 miles overdue for a service,,,could be a service item. Do you not have a scanner to check these things. They are a lovely car as are most large Peugeot. Before I gave up driving I had a 5008...superb machine.
pity you cant get it hooked up to a lexia for a diagnostic session, try the French car forum maybe someone else has had the same or similar problem. there might be someone near you with a lexia the forum people are pretty helpful. could be air in the fuel lines maybe they didn't change the fuel filter regularly. seems a good place to start. could possibly have been fed Morrisions diesel which is renowned for having water in it (our independant citroen /peugeot specialists Pleiades in sawtry cambs, wont touch the stuff). the filter housing should have a water drain on the bottom . since we have recently had a fuel shortage I wonder if it was filled from a nearly empty garage forecourt and water has been pumped into the tank? in which case a good look in the tank with a torch after pulling the sender unit under the rear seats may reveal some water in the tank. incidentially the clutch service interval on these is 135k.
We have had a few similar issues on the RCZ owners forum with the 2ltr 163 HDi engines, turns out to be a worn arm in the doser valve, cost to replace, £15 (it controls the flap that lets the air through).
Same engine issue as my Citroen C5 2.0 HDI diesel. Fuel injector is common issue for this engine. However this engine pretty reliable, run smooth and quite powerful. Mine 285000km.
Something else to try is cycling the ignition a few times before attempting to start, see if it makes any difference. As someone else has mentioned below, try parking downhill too. If these tests make a difference, then its supply fuel pressure, so weak in tank pump or dirty diesel filter
Old diesels are usually only trouble if driven by people that always do short journeys and never rev them above 2,000rpm. Service them on time, give them a longer run occasionally and allow them to rev high enough to burn off the particulates and they are usually okay.
@Adrian CV Political pressure over particulates in populated places (try saying that when you're drunk). Basically diesels put out a lot of particulates that affect the lungs though this is mostly only a problem in cities and high population density parts of the country where people live besides busy roads. It also conveniently ignores the fact that petrol cars are quite low in toxic emissions when new but get worse as they age but diesel engines tend to stay the same as they age (if properly maintained).
@Adrian CV I agree that CO2 emissions are important as well. I suppose if you live in an affected area then particulates are important. I live in a relatively low population area in windy and wet Scotland, so I have no problem with driving a diesel car. If I travel into the city I usually take the train. I suppose the answer is to introduce congestion charges which is what they are doing.
In a few years it will all be irrelevant as EVs take over and the number of diesel (and petrol) cars on the road drop to levels that will make the air much safer for people living in these areas.
Cataclean + 1/4 full tank, 20 min blast on a motorway and all problems solved.
banning diesel and gas cars is just a scam, making an electric cars is worse for the environment than a regular car
@@Chris-hw4mq No it isn't. The materials for lithium ion batteries are easily recoverable from old batteries or from green sources, the motors are much more simple with far fewer parts, the cars require far less maintenance and the energy to run the car is easily generated from renewable source. And most progressive countries are mostly generating their energy from renewable source though a few backward countries aren't.
I like how the guy was leaving on a plane instantly, before the car cooled down, pure class, set him on as your salesman bud
I'd say (in this order):
1. Fuel filter (+ Air filter while you are at it)
2. Vacuum leaks
3. MAF-sensor
4. Leak test fuel injectors
5. EGR-vent (clean or change, not very fun), and while changing/cleaning it change the high pressure sensor
6. DPF-clean
7. Fuel pump (least likely it is very well built)
I'd buy that car in a heartbeat, that seven step list applies to all PSA-diesels with and without error codes and hesitant behavior, point 7 is really expensive but 1-6 is cheap (monetary) if you don't account for the work.
Sensible list. Many say glow plugs - not needed to start at that temp, so glad you haven't suggested those! Start with Fuel filter as you say since it is a service item and good to eliminate. Usually worse though when asking for more fuel not idling. Vacuum leaks often make it hard to start but OK once going.
I believe he sold it, but still useful to know these things. My money is dirty injectors or EGR valve not closing fully. Can unplug a MAF sensor to check it's not that. Can check injector leak off by doing a full acceleration test. Third gear and rev it out with foot flat to floor. Get an error code flagged up/engine limp mode.
Hi James, try looking at the fuel filter .. may be blocked or a seal leaking on one of the hoses drawing in air .. shine a tourch through the clear return hose and see if bubbles are being returned back to the tank .. Hope this helps
"Leaving the country". That old chestnut!
I worked for Peugeot/Kia for decades until last year.Change Fuel Filter for an OE spec not a moody pattern one.Also never knew until 4 years ago,there is such a thing as summer & winter diesel the latter has antifreeze agents in it to stop waxy fuel in cold temps.The Kia 1.7 Diesel engines in fact were being recovered to us over one winter,awaiting a complete new fuel filter housing with uprated fuel heater.We asked the customers what fuel had been used mostly cheap supermarket,in these we sent the fuel away for inspection,it was summer fuel being used in winter.Hope this may help you,good luck 👍
Never knew about winter/summer diesel, interesting to know 👍. Did Kia pay out for the repairs (if covered by warranty) or was it the customers who had to pay out of their own pocket.
@@Mark... Its similar to the petrol engines that are predominantly designed to run on 98 RON,keep filling them up with 95 or lower do short journeys and wait for the problems to come calling.To their credit Kia paid for most under warranty,even though it wasn't their fuel that caused it,only a few exceptions.
@@Mark... Winter diesel used to be more important to trucks/buses when starting from cold at 4am , or in Scotland, present winters dont seem to be as cold (though are cooler than summer highs obviously), but then you get a few days of minus oh damm thats cold.
Hi James, I am currently working on one of these for a friend of mine. It's the same spec and year as this and yes, they are a really nice car. If this is the 2.0 hdi, it is the same engine as fitted to Ford Mondeo Mk4. Firstly check the oil level or more to the point that the end of the dipstick has not broken off - the garage filled my friend's car with 7.5 litres of oil, which didn't help anything. Also check vacuum hose connections, there is one on top of the vaccuum pump these are easily broken and the plastic gets brittle with age. Also where the vacuum hoses join the inlent manifold moulding - these are difficult to see (need a mirror) and are at the back of the engine near the bulkhead. I had to remove them when removing the inlet manifold they may have been missed if the manifold had been removed in the past. This might not help - but worth a look. Oh yes, at 145k it will need a cambelt if not had one already. If you are going to change the cambelt be carefull when loosening the crank pulley nut.
yep was changing the oil on mine and as I was wiping the dip stick the bottom piece b roke off in my hand.
Our Diesel 508SW worked fantastically after a local garage undid 7 years of franchised Peugeot neglect. At 100k the AdBlue reservoir was empty, rear fuel filter was still the factory one, the square fuel filter was also original. We changed the atf and the car gave us 4 more years service until someone t-boned it whilst under-taking.
As already mentioned below, the Pug 2.0HDI is virtually bulletproof. I had a 406 with that engine and it was still going strong with no problems at 200,000 miles. Good durable engine. The fault codes might enlighten you. I doubt if its anything serious like the pump because if it was you'd be having problems warm as well.
You think it might be bullied proof but the car is not worth anything too many miles , trade it and move on to better miles stock
The 406 2.0 hdi was the last bullet proof engine that Peugeot made
@@muffindell and the 306hdi and some early 90bhp 307hdi without the dpf
and yes the wife is still rocking her 306hdi eastate
The 2.0 HDi 8 valve is a great engine...my old 307 up to 240k now and still sweet... 53mpg on steady runs and it's remapped so quite nippy too!
@@robprior1246 145k Too many miles? None of our diesel-engined cars have done less than 300,000 miles, one doing 450,000 and still going strong when sold. Change the oil & filter at regular intervals & avoid very short journeys where possible & a good diesel will serve you well. (Retired ex diesel tech)
It's a PSA 2.0 HDi... those things are pretty bomb proof. Start with reading the codes... dash shows it's overdue a service, last I remember it was 18k on these which means it's now 20k on a service schedule that's already too long.. and fuel filter get's changed every other service, which means 40k on the old one. Good quality fuel filter (Purflux or Bosch), make sure the rubber O ring is replaced... start from there.
You'll want to be out of your mind to let any engine go 18 thousand miles on the same oil....the manufacturers only do this for convenience for the majority of the population who are ether to lazy or haven't a clue what an engine is...don't forget once the warranty is up after 4 or 5 years the manufacturers are off the hook...5 thousand if you want the engine to last ....as for diesel filter 40k .......I'm almost lost for words....have you seen a diesel filter after 20k there black with gunk...it's a good way to tank a HPP...again every 5k and it will run forever....what makes more sense 40 quid every 6 mounts or so for new oil filter and diesel filter or 10 grand for a new engine and new fuel system....
@@nightstorm9128 I wasn't suggesting people *should* service their cars at that interval, just pointing out that people *do*. I suggest a service every 10k. Fuel and air filter will be fine every 20k however for MPG gains and also looking into the fuel pot for any glitter for a faulty fuel pump, suggest doing it at 10k. 5k / 6 months is a pointless waste of money, I've serviced every 10k and took two engines past 200/250k miles easy, no engine issues whatsoever. Fuel pump / injectors were fine too. Most either engine ever needed was £20 for a crank sensor and £80 for a FPR on the other.
18.000 or 20.000 .. that is kilometers, NOT miles
@@nightstorm9128 that's kilometers ... 18.000 kilometers not miles, but my 2014 XC90 D5 has 20.000km (12.000 miles) interval too .. I only do 15.000km and only on Amsoil
@@tellyonthewall8751 A lot of manufacturers have an option called “long life” which is 18k miles, this is sold as a bonus for fleet sales as it halves the service costs on the flip side whoever gets the car after the fleet user is playing a lottery as to the lifespan of the engine, personally I’ve never let a car go over 10k between oil and 20k for a major service
I've seen this issue on more than one occasion and 90% of the time its been down to air in the fuel system mainly caused by the engine compartment fuel pipe work. The other 10% is injectors.
My 163hp 2.o 508 SW is the most reliable car i ever got...after 8 years it looks like new, and NEVer had any issues.
For what you paid for it James I’d just run it as your own daily driver, at least during the next few months anyway and enjoy those heated seats. It sounds like your daughter likes it aswell. Hopefully while your using it some fault codes start to appear so you then have a better idea of what it actually need spending on it. It’s at a value now where you can use it for a few months and it still won’t be worth any less than it is now.
Was going to post exactly the same thing!
@ Richard Mahon. Spot on advice!
I think it's worth more to you to keep and use it yourself, as Alister Cowe has said above check the fuel filter seal first, my father in law has one of these and its mileage is 170k+ and he loves it
James, I'd take the bugger as it is! At this time I'm running a geriatric Ford Galaxy 2.3 twin cam with a few more issues than this car. Pity I've just bought myself another motor bike. I do have the advantage of working in the motor trade and Peugeot is in our chain. Having had cars from main dealers with far worse problems than this, a minor issue when cold is no problem at all. That is a really nice car. Keep up the good work and thanks for this last year.
"leaving the country" is what you tell the buyer when your selling any 10yrs old, 150k, french car...
Ha ha , yes heard this a lot. He needs to buy smarter and not get taken in by needy sellers
Yep, that pretty much sums it up.... The bloke wanted a grand, as he was flying out that day. He should have said £500, or you keep it...... We Buy Any Car offer you bugger all, or used to years ago. They obviously offered less than a grand......
@@Brian-om2hh I know it's a totally different car but they gave my brother more for his EV Kia Soul than he reckoned he could get privately. Then when he got to the WBAC place they increased the offer after a manual look over it. Bro was well pleased. 😄
Moving abroad, one of the oldest stories in the book LOL !!
Stick a non return valve on the fuel line between the fuel filter and the high pressure pump, they cost about £5.00
I have 407Hdi 2.0 sw tiny leaks in primer bulb. New one plus one way valve . Runs fine now
I had this exact issue but with the Toyota 2.0 D4D in a 2008 Avensis. Turns out it was the suction control valve on the side of the fuel pump. Easily accessible and replaced it myself. The part was £40. The hard part was working it out. Good luck!
I had a Pug 307 Hdi here in Australia & in the 10 yrs I'd had it, clocked up 330,000km without too many issues initially , though in the last few months of owning it the DPF was on the way out & 2 injector seals were starting to fade. Whacked it over to a hyundai i30 diesel which has been brilliant
My 508SW had a similar problem with stalling. Started to use dipetane regularly in the tank and it's never missed a beat since.
Lots of good insights and advice below James, and I think it would be worth your while to get more of a feel for diesels, as this may sound odd, but Diesel is very much a genuinely renewable fuel for the future, given how Extremeky cheap Ultra Clean Synthetic Fuels are likely to be making an appearance, via Plasma Gasification Waste to Energy with Syngas Production. For insight, UK Waste annually can deliver about 4 times the amount of diesel presently used by the USA every single year, and imho, we are going to have to turn to it, when the Stupidity that's Electic Vehicles Fails Catastrophically and has been launched decades too early, I to completely inadequate infrastructure, that can't handle hacking attacks, let alone CME impacts taking down Power Grids for long periods (part of why nobody in their right mind should be allowing "Smart" Power and Water Meters onto their property, and should be glaring at neighbours Stupid enough to have them. Putting aside the over inclusion of vulnerable electric toys cars are burdened with today, basic facts about Diesels are their simplicity, extreme reliability, and wonderful sources of torque, and despite how badly they have been treated by service centres servicing badly or not at all, with proper care and attention, they can be brought back wonderfully. An example, a Bedford TL 7.5 ton I had, had been service Contracted with an approved Commercial Premises, that frankly would be an I suit to call them Cowboys, and you couldn't reliably co template doing a delivery further than about 20 miles away from base. Obviously this was not acceptable. I knew a very good place to get work done, that my Grandfather and u cle had always used, so I called in, to see if they could take over the servicing for me, and the owner checked the vehicle over, and some things were so bad, he wouldn't let me leave u til they had been fixed (it took a few hours), then he did a priority list starting with full service of everything to be done on the Service day he slotted me I to. After the second service, a year later, there was nowhere in Britain or Europe .I had the Confidence to go to, knowing I could get there and back with no problem. 3rd service, I was told the Lucas Fuel injection was on the way out, and gave the ok to get a replacement, which turned out to be a Bosch, which to drive with was nowhere as good as the Lucas (with the Lucas, you could pretty much steer it with throttle assistance), but I adjusted to it. Aftervevery Service done by good mechanics, you could feel the vehicle getting happier and happier, because with diesels, you get far more connected to the character of the engine, which is why for so many people, me included, Diesels become such a passion and a love affair that is really rewarding. I think over comp.icating them with masses of electronics gets in the way of all that. Start looking at diesels right James, and .I think you will find them surprisingly rewarding. Best Wishes Bob (who has driven millions of miles with diesels as a professional driver, and now I can't manage mast and Sails boats now, am looking forward to getting a boat with 2 diesel engines in it, at some point). 👍🙂🇬🇧🏴🇺🇲
Has this on my focus same engine, took it to diesel specialists they said it might be injectors wanted 1200 to replace, ended up being dirty egr valve took of blanked car runs perfect since
Old diesels just keep on chugging if you look after them. I still have a W reg 1.9tdi Scenic with 155k that I owned from 6k miles. Absolute workhorse and it runs on veggie oil.
The problem is modern diesels generally do NOT just keep on chugging away due to all the emissions hardware, and there's no way anyone can get away with trying to run a common rail diesel on vegetable oil, the injectors will last about 2 miles before getting clogged up.
@@FatHead1979 I see your point, around 2009 DPF's became quite common and that is a huge problem for many diesels.
My old girl is quite happy though, she is at a point in her life where I have had my money out of her and I have saved huge sums in fuel.
@@Christopher_T_Paul Yeah, I'm still knocking about in a 2005 Focus 1.8 TDCi (80's Ford engine with the more modern bits i.e. common rail injection and turbo added) but crucially no DPF. It sounds like a tractor but with no DPF and a cast iron block/head it's pretty much indestructible!
Here's to running noisy old diesel sheds! 😁
James will you stop being so critical of older diesels 😂i have mine over 4 years ,It has been and is as sweet as a nut.Cheers for the video
A good service with fuel filter, will probably need glow plugs looking at with the idle as these are turned on to improve the idle. Also if you do change glow plugs do the controller at the same time as the often blow each other up. I do think this will be a chap ish fix.
It was great to return home from Christmas vacation and find a bunch of Chops videos waiting for me. I can't get enough of boots and bonnets and wings. On a serious note , I was wondering why you don"t want to retail the Volvo wagon when it seems that all the work that it needs is the type of stuff that you are so good at. That is not to say that you are not good at other stuff too.
Thanks buddy! Yes I think it will get repaired
We'll assume "leaving the country" story was BS. And they know the car has a problem that they cant afford to fix. That doesn't necessarily write it off as a bad deal. First, an accurate diagnosis from someone you trust that knows how to use test equipment properly should point you in the right direction regards cost. Personally, I don't think there's enough 'fat' in these diesels to cover the potential pain after sale.
Yeah....nailed on. I kinda think they knoe or have heard of james and his good nature knowing there would be no come back.
Check the glow plugs too, They still run for a while after cold starting. That engine is usually pretty bulletproof.
Glow plugs are functional only on the first start to help the engine start usually when the temps are under -5 Celsius, they go off right after so not the case here
@@alexandrustefan9059 They may not be taking current but on some vehicles they form a localised "hot spot" which is important to complete combustion. I bought a Land Rover Discovery engine "with a miss-fire" cheap from a well known breaker. It transpired that one glow plug wasn`t even working! When replaced the engine ran perfectly!
Or www.enginebuildermag.com/2012/01/diesel-engine-glow-plugs-not-just-for-starting-anymore/#:~:text=Even%20though%20the%20engine%20is%20running%20and%20the,typically%20be%20trapped%20in%20the%20regeneration%20filter%20%28DPF%29.
It's costs nothing to test the glow plugs.
glow plugs Will not cause this sort of issue
James I'm not being horrible and I mean this in the nicest way - just because you are so honest and transparent doesn't mean 90% of other people are. They will create and blag a story about anything, don't take it as gospel! I can smell bull💩 from customers from a mile off
I drove one of these back in 2013 when my brother had one as a courtesy car. Was a 2011 1.6eHDi 115 Active EGC6. Being a Citroen nut I felt right at home in it seems Pug is part of the same company. Loved the glass roof. I enjoyed driving it.
I'm looking at one of these just now. How did the 1.6 feel for overtaking? Plenty of oomph?
Hello from Wales. I'm sticking with my almost 25 year old, 81,000 mile Peugeot 306 turbo diesel. I was offered a part exchange for a then new HDi engined one when they first appeared but I think that almost all, if not all non IDI diesels are terribly unreliable. Too much by way of sensors, cats, particulate filters and limp modes.
Have a good new year, my best regards to you and yours.
I’d say the sweet spot is DI but still injection pump. Less prone to cracking the head, but better on fuel. Like the 90/110 HP VAG 1.9 TDIs
As i remember from the dealership these are pretty happy to go through the injectors, if one is bad the rest will be soon to follow. Also it's a good idea to check the cholostomy bag (Exhaust fluid). Also force a particle filter regen if possible.Did my work experience in a peugeot dealer and overall they were pretty good if used right. A scantool should tell you everything you need to know though.
I had reason to hire a van in November 2017 from Arnold Clark and what they gave me was a 17-reg Peugeot Expert the new shaped version that is more like a VW Transporter.
I can remember that was a lovely diesel van to drive. When I dropped it back later in the day the guy who took it off me just said exactly the same thing.
This may not be a good route, but my Clio (admittedly a 1.2 petrol) had a similar issue. Running rough, and at one point not starting. When it was running it was fine in the upper rev range, but at idle it would splutter and stall. It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. Obviously if the ECU can't read the crank, it doesn't know when to fire. Worth checking as they are reasonably cheap.
A faulty crank sensor will throw up an error code so simple to check.
@@andygilbert1877 not always the case. Mine had no codes whatsoever, and no check engine light, even when it was refusing to start. Some might throw a code, but they don't always. Varies depending on what's gone wrong with the sensor, and if the ECU can detect it isn't right. More modern cars like this Peugeot might well show a code, so defo worth plugging it in, but it's not guaranteed to.
@@seberous Depends on the specific system yes. I’ve seen crank sensor faults on a few Peugeot HDIs and they did throw a code. (Can’t remember which one now) The one I particularly remember was on my wife’s 206, though that caused intermittent stalling whilst running. (But the engine would restart afterwards) A sensor was about £20 at the time so I took the chance on that being the only problem and so it proved. Not always the case I know! :)
@@andygilbert1877 yes, I was the same. Intermittent stalling / rough idle / hesitation, and not starting, just turning over. New sensor was £15 so worth a try! I found cleaning it got me home until I could swap it. They certainly all seem to get to a point where they either rust over or get covered in muck or clutch dust depending where they're mounted. Luckily easy and cheap to change. Always worth trying 😂👍
Think your a bit off on your valuation. 2350 is recommended private retail so more likely a 2995 car for a trader with MOT and Warranty? I’d bang an MOT on it. Service plus fuel filter. Get an injector leak off done when cold to see if any injectors are running unevenly then go from there.
Potential good 2k margin in the car gotta be worth a shot!
Loving your channel. Much appreciated your efforts to show and tell about every stock you bring in. Learning a whole lot of new experience from every video I watch. I have been in automotive bodyshop repair trade. Own a little workshop in Derby. Recently stepped into selling used cars in derby. I wonder how do you find tine to put out all these videos despite being so busy. Keep up with good work. Thank you for all your videos.
Thanks Ajay, really appreciate this!
Moving out of the country , that's what everyone says when they sell you a right Pup and they know it
Used to have a 407 which is the older version of this and that was a nice car and very well equipped
Hi James, my brothers Mazda 6 2.2 diesel did this all the time when he used supermarket fuel ⛽️. When he used shell or BP it was brilliant 👍
I've heard people say the same about supermarket fuel
@@Supraboyes always use supermarket fuel, never had a problem.
@@bikeman123 are you driving diesel or petrol?
@@Supraboyes we're talking about diesel, so yes I'm driving diesel
I had this car, the 508 was underrated, and not many sold. The issue here points to the EOLYS additive, needs top up and reset, (it cleans the DPF during regen on this engine) also a new fuel filter is required, the filter on these engines is small, and 40k change is too long. Finally try vPower fuel or equivalent, the additives will help clean the injectors. I doubt the fuel pressure is low or has an air leak as the rough running would be there at all temperatures: good luck.
As you mentioned, the weak fuel pump scenario is where my money would be. A good scanner should bring any problems to the surface that haven't tripped a code yet. Perhaps you could run a record as it's driven then study it on play back. If not then start with the cheapest and easiest, a clogged fuel filter perhaps or a decent injector flush? High mileage diesels can become problematic, it's their downside.
Hi James change the fuel filter on it bet it's never been done and there's sludge in it which is what caused my van to do the same thing the red transit I use
This is exactly what my 508 does, spent a fortune trying to sort it with no luck. It’s now started to do it when it warm. Had enough now, due you want another one 😂😂😂
How long have you had it? Before this specific issue came to be
Straight away I would take it to the mechanic to get an estimate on the stalling issue, and what it would need to pass MOT----at that point, you can make an informed decision
1.6hdi the best. I have two. One 308 with 120000 miles and a 508sw with 130000 miles on it. No issues with 308. Only issues with 508 I have found is heaters not working as they should
Bet you look after them though
@@ChopsGarage not massively. Just your average joe. Give em a blast down motorway now and again. They just keep going haha
That is a typical symptom of fuel starvation usually caused by the fuel filter which after about 20,000 miles starts to clog up even though it’s not due for renewal some of them are supposed to last 40,000 miles but they block in as little as 15,000
plug in a scanner and read the fuel pressureFrom a cold start I bet you it fluctuates!
100% what I was thinking to start with.
Especially if it's been run on cheap supermarket diesel filter definitely needs changing on time
@@sammytheseal2307 i’ve just been offered a car and was wondering What would you price a 56 Reg Nissan Micra five door good condition 82,000 miles at?
@@SalimKhan-gk1fh Service history? MOT length?
Also is that trade or retail price?
@@sammytheseal2307 The selling price i usually sell through the Friday ad, Has service history and 11 months MOT I can’t seem to get a definite price as some of them on order traitor of crazy like 2500 hundred!
@@sammytheseal2307 I meant auto trader!!
To answer the question, are all old diesels trouble, No. A family business we had ran several Peugeot HDI cars, all had 250.000+ miles on them, plus a few Skoda Octavia's with over 300.000, we had a Hyundai Elantra diesel with 150.000, all were extrelely reliable. They need proper servicing using OE parts. I had a Kia with a similar issue, it was the fuel pump relay contacts, they were loose in the fuse board.
I had a 2.0 diesel Mondeo that did exactly the same thing. Would start perfectly and run/drive well but if it was cold it would start and cut out. Did the leak off test and found that two injectors were dodgy. At that mileage (200k) I felt it would be silly to replace only two injectors and cut my losses. That being said, I STILL don’t know if the injectors were the reason it didn’t start in the first place. Will be interesting to see where this goes.
The way those wipers work would drive me nuts
Could be glow plugs, had issue with a misfire from coldstart. A set of new glow plugs resolved it.
Hi James,i`ve just bought my first Pug,a 2009 407 2.0 HDI SR, not had a great deal of success with our previous French motors but i love it to bits. Needs a starter motor and i`m gonna have a go at spannering it myself and a bit of rattlecan work too,inspired by yourself and channel obviously.
Had many a problem with the peugeot. Usually a nice spec but when they give probs... my experience: limp mode, turbo issue. Bought a new cartridge, ran ok. Importantly.. these are probably VNT and must be calibrated on a bench if that is the issue. Otherwise, EGR valve, or one of the sensors. Someone mentioned fuel filter, a good start imo with 145k. Also fuel SCV will cause 'hunting' at idle.. best of luck 🙂
Injector cleaner and a good run, it seems like it’s been run on nearly empty
EGR Valve is my guess. Had the same issue on my ford fiesta 1.4 tdci
That would throw an EML so it won’t be EGR I’d have thought
@@Missed_Apex_GT it depends on the potential EGR issue, not all engines monitor EGR air flow i.e. in some cases, as long as the EGR flap is actuating as requested some engines will happily ignore the EGR being totally blocked. (or at least they won't throw an EGR related code)
Yup fuel filter , have they still got that black vessel with the filter inside and a oring seal? It's drawing air and when it heats up the rubber expands and hence why it runs good when hot. That's my first guess. Bypass the filter with a pipe and a inline petrol filter to test
I'm due to pick up a 2012 508 GT 2.2 (204ps) this week for £800. its done 204k, One previous owner and fully loaded! It's a massive departure for me as I've Owned BMW's for over 6 years now.
This GT is set to take my ageing 2001 525d auto away from daily duties.
The misfire could be simpily down to glow plugs. My 525d has a similar issue but doesn't die. It has long been the case that glow plugs are only used to get the car going from cold.
From what I've read from comments on the BMW forum, Its apparent that glow plugs are also used to maintain a smooth idle on modern Common Rail diesels. If thats true I'm not 100%.
That could potentially be your issue.
That's almost certainly a fuelling issue, especially since you get it while driving. You need a bit more fuel at cold idle while warming up, so if there's a restriction or fault causing it not to get the fuel it needs then it'll obviously cut out.
Start with replacing the diesel filter and stick a bottle of injector cleaner in it, take it for a nice long high rev drive
If that doesn't solve it then it's probably fuel pressure sensor or regulator
If when changing the fuel filter you find metal shavings, put down the spanners and bin it, because in that case it'll be the high pressure fuel pump.
The HP fuel pumps can go wrong without warning lights, which is a concern in this case
I have 61 plate 508 with 163bhp engine on it and current mileage way over 200k miles. There are some minor issues but all of them are clearly age related. Now, if I was after buying second hand reliable car for peanuts I'd buy 508.
I recently worked for a Peugeot dealer and we had a customer whose car was constantly going in and out of limp mode, and eventually stayed in it, hence his booking. On investigation it turned out that the ceramic particulate filter was severely blocked. The customer also found that acceleration was poor while cold, and although diesels do not optimally perform till warm he reported lots of flat spots even when the car had fully warmed up, until the limp mode finally kicked in full time. Once the filter was cleaned by a technician the limp mode problem was solved and the cold running improved considerably. Peugeot advise that the car should have a 10 to 20 mile run every two weeks or so at over 2K rpm, to allow the filter to warm up and burn off the gathered particulates. I have a 2014 308 e-HDI and can feel the performance start to lag if I have done too many start stop journeys, so I do as advised and it solves the problem, Although this car had done a lot of miles, it may have done few long journeys recently (lockdown/working from home?) so the filter may have become blocked. I am not a technician, but this has been my experience with cars fitted with such filters. I would also suggest that, if you have the service history and it was dealer maintained, you speak to them as they probably keep a service history. My dealer itemises issues found even if they are just advisories so they may have information for you. I hope this helps.
Those 163 HP HDI Diesel engines are good, not fast but good torque is produced from the engine. Sadly they are now Euro 5 so they can't enter congestion charge zones without paying huge tolls. I've had about 6 cars with these engines and only 1 of them has ever missed a beat sometimes after giving it stick it comes up engine fault repair needed it enters limp mode and after another start up its fine. I've found using the cruise control seems to cause the fault happens which happens irregularly but I've never known one rough like yours.
Sort it and keep it as your work runaround, lovely big space when seats folded down.
To many cars in my personal collection that need work lol
Had similar experiences with mine.
After trying change fuel filter and rest simple things find out problem in fuel pressure regulator. Less that 150euro to fix. And no problems with it already over 2 years after replacing regulator.
Had a 407 10 years ago with the same issue. Discovered if I squeezed the priming bulb once or twice when it done this it would run 100% for the rest of the day, assumed air was getting into the system but sold it before I got fixing it
I've drove pretty much extensively Diesels for about ten years and had loads of little niggles usually related to carbon build up and the EGR but it's always turned out to be fixable. I like diesels but I can see the issues could be a problem when trying to flip them. I would change glow plugs fuel filter and stick some seafoam or similar through.
Most likely this is a problem with electronics and/or sensors (temperature, crankshaft position etc.). If it accelerates well then a fuel pump can be excluded. I would check a common rail ramp pressure when it is idling, just to exclude the fuel system. There might be a pressure regulator at the ramp that sticks at some position when the car is cold, the pressure check will show this.
Thanks for tips!
Nice car and will be a good work Horse. I would see if you can find and fix the problem.as cheap as possible. Try the code reader to start with but does sound like a tiny air leek which is going when warm and the expansion takes place.
If I didnt know this was a Peugeot I would like this motor ! 145k miles !!!!!!!!
Worth looking at the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the pump.
Take it off, wipe it over with a lint free cloth then refit.
Looks like you've got the upgraded stereo judging by dash top speaker 👍
I Agree with Andy
Cheapest thing is fuel filter try that use as runabout to isolate the issue
I have 204,000 miles on my Zafira 1.9dti and it's still going strong.
Change the oil and filters regularly, and give them a good run every so often.
Too much short journey low rev stuff wrecks them.
10 year old car that cost 30.000 euros new. Worth about "2500£". Absolutly insane.
I bought my 2015 Peugeout 508 for 8000€ an i would call it a steal. The car consumes 5l of diesel per 100km on avarage. And the parts are very cheap. Cost me 20€ to fix the passager side window cable snap.
I will probably use it for the next 10 years easy.
Try the fuel filter James my other half’s 1.6hdi DS3 did exactly the same… did a oil fuel air filter change ran like a dream after that
I had this with an old 205...there was a small airleak in the fuel hose.
I found it by pumping the bulb that manually pressurises the fuel...a jet of diesel came out and hit me in the face.
I would check what people have said fuel filter dpf and so on. Honestly I would keep it and use it for a daily workhorse an estate cheaper tax than the vw caddy van you had and not holding much value. Like you said you could change so many things which gives you a smaller margin I think get the alfa sorted and sell that and daily this, I have a peugeot 308 1.6 diesel with 138k done 110000 miles with very little issues just regular servicing and my sister and a friend have peugeot diesels to they are brilliant on fuel and cheap to run.
The Toyota Avensis diesels I've owned have all been bulletproof.
If only this was a Toyota 🙄
@@johnritchie8152 Well, In response to the title, Are all old diesels just trouble? No they aren't.
@@ZenshinCoffee fair play, the avensis is genuinely bulletproof! Being in the taxi trade i can second this!
I think you will quite likely find you have air getting into the fuel system, I have a C5 with the same engine if its a 2.0. What is likely happening is that when you park the car air is getting into the system and sitting in the fuel line. When you start the car the 'plug' of air moves through the system, enters the fuel pump and so to the injectors, once it has all passed through it will go OK for the rest of the day. Mine will sometimes not start, if it does it goes a little way then stops, you can start it again eventually, it may do the same again then run very rough and stop. If you can keep the revs up with no load you can eventually push all the air through and then it runs fine - until the next time you start it. Try priming it with the rubber bulb from cold and see if it starts OK.
Fuel cutoff solenoid on the side of the fuel pump. Had to change 2 of these. Same symptoms. Meant to be fuel pump out job but you can do it in place.. the cutoff solenoid is the same as on the suzuki Jimny. Put less than have the price of Peugeot. Same denso part number.
Another dis honest seller "thats " leaving the country lol can nobody be honest anymore disgusting the way people behave. Fairplay to you James your honesty restores my faith in people.
Thanks Daz
Hi James,good price ,buy yourself a top spec code reader, round 3k it will tell all you need to know.
And whats wrong, All you are doing is guessing whats wrong
One of the best engines today.
My engines fuel consumption is 4.9lit./100km. Volvo S60, 2011
Chap who bought it did 60mpg all the way home
Assuming it has FSH and there isn't an EGR fault or previous owner hasn't tried to delete it then the fact that the car runs fine when warmed up means the injectors and pump and suction control valve are probably OK since faults with those components usually cause running and starting problems regardless of whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up.
Might be worth checking glow plugs for condition and operation because even modern diesels still need help to start and run when cold and they will be providing heat for certain time after the engine has started - especially for DPF processes. They are consumable items and do wear out. Worth checking power supply and loom to the glow plugs for damage, loose connectors and seeing if there are any stored or pending fault codes.
If it has a fuel primer bulb by the fuel filter give it a few squeezes til it goes hard then start it.
nice vid try disconnecting the MAF sensor see if helps
cheers
Could you get £1k from BCA or Manheim?! Fuel filter and injector cleaner and regen the DPF. And test glow plugs. Then auction if not right James.
Call round at the guys house, bet he's still there looking all smug.
Yep, they say they're leaving the country in the hope they won't get any comeback!
@@sammytheseal2307 Peter, Paul and Mary
@@roystonvehicles9129 lol 😆
@@sammytheseal2307 th-cam.com/video/IVEATF7VNTk/w-d-xo.html
@@sammytheseal2307 I've noticed James loves a good story from his customers, he takes it all in.
I agree with the other comments ! Fuel filter or vacuum lines easy not expensive fix.
Fuel filter. Replace with a good quality or original one. Defo check the dpf status.
Sounds like a DPF (FAP) issue.....common to modern PSA diesels - and Ford / Volvo using the french engines.....at that mileage the Eolys tank should have been refilled & reset at least once - possibly twice ( ISTR its every 70k-90k miles for the Volvo2.0d - Peugeot may be different).
So may be worth checking the service records to see if its been done & when ??
Got one! Bloody good car! 54.2mpg all day.
It is really nice to be fair, if someone simply ignored the slightly lumpy start
Dash says 1800 miles overdue for a service,,,could be a service item. Do you not have a scanner to check these things. They are a lovely car as are most large Peugeot. Before I gave up driving I had a 5008...superb machine.
Jeez, I didn't realize these were so old! It falls into my "problematic peugeot" age bracket then
As Andy M said below, I’d start with the fuel filter .
pity you cant get it hooked up to a lexia for a diagnostic session, try the French car forum maybe someone else has had the same or similar problem. there might be someone near you with a lexia the forum people are pretty helpful. could be air in the fuel lines maybe they didn't change the fuel filter regularly. seems a good place to start. could possibly have been fed Morrisions diesel which is renowned for having water in it (our independant citroen /peugeot specialists Pleiades in sawtry cambs, wont touch the stuff). the filter housing should have a water drain on the bottom . since we have recently had a fuel shortage I wonder if it was filled from a nearly empty garage forecourt and water has been pumped into the tank? in which case a good look in the tank with a torch after pulling the sender unit under the rear seats may reveal some water in the tank. incidentially the clutch service interval on these is 135k.
Sky wagon great workhorse my friend had one for nearly 300000 miles
We have had a few similar issues on the RCZ owners forum with the 2ltr 163 HDi engines, turns out to be a worn arm in the doser valve, cost to replace, £15 (it controls the flap that lets the air through).
I’d keep it as your daily. Being an estate is useful for the business now you’ve sold the caddy. Low cost workhorse!
Same engine issue as my Citroen C5 2.0 HDI diesel. Fuel injector is common issue for this engine. However this engine pretty reliable, run smooth and quite powerful. Mine 285000km.
Something else to try is cycling the ignition a few times before attempting to start, see if it makes any difference.
As someone else has mentioned below, try parking downhill too.
If these tests make a difference, then its supply fuel pressure, so weak in tank pump or dirty diesel filter
Cycling a good call