Thank you for the information. My local appliance repair companies are booked out until early to late December! Your videos helped me trouble shoot my issue and had my pellet stove going in around an hour. Thats having never owned or opperated one. Also included video watching time lol. Saved me $180. Thanks again!
That's fantastic to hear Daniel! So glad we could be of assistance and save you time and money - more importantly you are warm once again. Thanks for sharing, if you need any help down the road just give us a shout. Thanks!
I have a Whitfield Profile 30 insert pellets stove and are experiencing hard starts, pellet burn pot overflowing with pellets pre start, one it gets running it runs well for 8 hours or so then has the same start issue, flame is lazy. Stove has been cleaned multiple times, exhaust pipe cleaned, igniter replaced and photo eye was also replaced, stove is 25 years old and have replaced igniters multiple times and exhaust and combustion motors 1 time, any insight would be appreciated
Thanks for contacting us. Definitely sounds like this is an air-flow issue - we either have an air loss or an air blockage issue somewhere which is creating these issues. I know you mentioned your cleaning and replacement parts here, but I will outline below what I would suggest checking. 1. Ash accumulation in the stove or venting. Detailed cleaning, especially the ash traps, rear firewall, and combustion blower housing manifold that leads to the vent pipe. Oftentimes there is a 90 degree elbow or a Tee on an insert like this - check for ash blockage between the combustion housing and into the vent pipe. You can use the sucking part of a leafblower/Vac on the exhaust outside to help pull out any stuck ash after you have run a brush through. Make sure the stove is off, cold, and unplugged. For the back firewall, remove the brick panel and give the rear firewall some taps with a mallet. You can also fish bottle brushes up there through the ash trap openings on the left and right. Overtime, significant ash builds up in the back firewall and restricts the combustion air flow. 2. Air intake under the burnpot - check for blockages or obstructions. If you are drawing in fresh air from outside, check the air intake pipe. 3. Check Burnpot for proper seating and make sure all burnpot holes are open. 4. Check the front door gasket and glass gasket to ensure it's making a tight seal all the way around. Use a dollar bill, half in half out, close the door and pull. Check in multiple areas. Should be heavy resistance. Make sure the stove is off when doing this. Inspect the glass gasket closely. 5. Inspect the combustion motor and motor gasket seals. Motor should be operating near line voltage on start-up (110-125V). If either the round motor gasket or oblong motor housing gasket is not making a proper seal, it will leak air. Generally speaking these gaskets should be replaced every time the motor or housing is removed for cleaning/maintenance or when replaced. Even if it is not removed, these gaskets can become brittle and no longer making a proper seal over a few seasons. Here is the owners manual if you need it for reference. www.manualslib.com/manual/1274603/Whitfield-Profile-20-Fs.html#product-Profile%2030%20INS Happy to walk you through anything specific if needed. Keep us posted.
I have a switch on my old P61 that the feed system arm lands on every revolution of the cam. Harmon doesn't make it anymore but they say they have replaced that switch with some changes in the newer circuit board so it is not needed anymore. Also there are 2 wires going to it, do I just wire them together to complete the circuit/continuity? Also do I change out that arm that has the extra weight attached or leave it on and just let it do its thing? Thank you, great videos!
Thanks for the message here. If you change to the new style control board, leave the wires open/disconnected on that switch. The pusher arm does not need to be replaced, just leave it do its thing. Hope that is helpful, any other questions let us know. Thanks!
Thanks for the message. No, the vacuum switch will be a separate safety switch from the high limit switch. Some Englander models have two vacuum switches. The vacuum switch senses pressure in your firebox and exhaust. The high limit switch is designed to open if temperatures exceed a certain set point. Both of these switches are in line with the auger motor and will shut the feed system down if there is a safety issue or if the switch is faulty. Let us know which model Englander you have and what kind of issues you are experiencing. Here's a video overview on the vacuum switch for reference - th-cam.com/video/pHeQzUmSlIE/w-d-xo.html Happy to help!
I have been helping a elderly neighbor try to get her stove working (it's her only heat source). It is a Quadrature 1200. Basically the auger drops a handful of pellets lights them, no additional pellets feed, then it goes out. If you fill the fire pot with pellets, the stove lights and starts feeding. Presumably the thermocouple is not getting hot enough during the initial feed, since it is only feeding a very small amount of pellets, but filling the fire pit with pellets before startup gets it hot enough. The stove is very dirty, looks like it has never been cleaned. I checked that there is power to the vacuum switch, but I have not tested the switch itself yet. My guess is it is just so filthy that the high limit or vacuum switches are triggering. I have advised her to have it cleaned. What other things would cause it not to feed properly initially?
Thanks Jeremy, happy to help. Yes, the thermocouple acts as the proof of fire and gives signal to the control box when it reaches proper temp during start-up. This allows the unit to go into normal operation. 95% of issues are related to cleaning and maintenance of the unit. That would be the first thing I would recommend be completed. Blockage of ash can easily trip the vacuum switch. Generally you will notice a lazy fire with black soot when there is significant ash build-up. Without proper air velocity to the burnpot the thermocouple may not be able to lock in as you mentioned. The only other thing that would stiffen pellets during the start-up sequence would be dry spaces in the auger. The 1200 can have a tendency to have pellets funnel from the middle. If the auger has dry spots generally not enough pellets feed during start-up to get the Thermocouple to proper temp. Hope that helps. If you need the operation & maintenance manual just let us know and we can send that over. Thanks
I have a Quadra Fire CB1200 FS. It does not feed enough pellets to bring the fire the normal 4-6 inches out of the firepot. The auger is turning but doesn't seem to be turning long enough. The stove is set wide open and we even increased the control box to the + 10 % setting. Any ideas??
Thanks for the message. Generally speaking the fire will be around that height only on a high setting. Medium and low settings will have less flame height. The +10 setting on the control box only affects fuel feed on start-up, not during normal operation of the stove. You do have a feed slide inside the hopper where you can push it down or pull it up to allow more or less pellets to enter the auger shaft during operation. Flame height can also depend on the type of pellet - possibly try a couple brands to see if you notice a difference. When operating on the low setting, the 1200 will use approx 2lbs/hr. on high approx 5lbs per hour. Do timing tests on the different heat settings. There is always the possibility that the auger motor is weak or the control box isn't providing the correct feed signals, however it is always important to check the simple things first. Keep us posted, happy to help.
To clarify, a 120º-20 NO switch closes at 120ºF and then opens when it drops 20ºF below the 120ºF mark so at 100ºF. Not when it reached 20ºF (which would be below freezing). Same with a NC limit switch 200º-40. It opens at 200º and then re-closes at 160º (not at 40ºF). The "-##" portion of the model designation is the temperature differential required to reset. Otherwise, helpful video.
Pelpro 70 ,best stove out there as far as reliable.simple to run,clean and repair.bypassed the switches,sanded and polished the auger,shimmed the feeder tube so it can't jam.padded auger motor mounts .runs perfect and quiet.
Thanks for the message. It's extremely important that no switches are bypassed in the stove. Bypassing is for troubleshooting only. It's critical that all safety switches are connected properly and are operating properly. If you have any questions or need any replacement parts for your PP70 model just let us know. Thanks.
@@olivertaylor8788 Thanks for the message. If it was ordered through us, Let me know the name it was ordered under and I will look into it ASAP. Thanks.
@EarthSense I have 2 needing parts,one has vacume switch bad and control board is jumped to get the exhaust fan to run.the new one needs control board and exhaust fan won't cut off.both are running jumped because dam warranty people won't honor the warranty in a timely fashion, been 4 weeks trying to get control board,3 months getting parts for the older one.i had to order a $70 controller from Amazon 2 months ago on the one warranted till Feb 5 24.sorry ass warrenty.they get that $1200 and they don't know you then.
@@olivertaylor8788 Sorry to hear of the troubles. If any of your items were ordered through our company, I am happy to look into the status of everything; just let us know the name on the order. Thanks.
Hello happy New Year, I used a leave blower to clean out the exhaust motor&blower. Now the motor clicks on and gets Hot But doesn't turn fans in blower!
Thanks for contacting us Stephen, Happy New Year. Very odd.. We use the leafblower technique for all annual maintenance cleanings as well. I would suggest we try to run the exhaust motor to direct power and see what happens. We want to determine if it's an issue with the motor itself here. You can also do a voltage read with a multi-meter while the motor is in the unit. Should be close to line voltage on start-up. Here is a quick video on making a test cord. th-cam.com/video/rlmiCYI2WPk/w-d-xo.html Keep us posted, happy to help however we can. Thanks
Thanks for contacting us. In 90% cases if you are seeing what appears to be overfeeding issues, it is generally air flow issues - ash blockage or air leaks in the stove or venting. I would suggest performing a thorough cleaning on the stove and exhaust flue pipe venting. From there make sure the door gasket is sealing tight and the holes in the burnpot are all open. If the stove and vent is thoroughly cleaned and the unit still appears to be feeding to much fuel, just let us know and we can dive deeper into tech troubleshooting. Below is a manual on your model for cleaning reference and one of our Harman videos that will give a nice overview on the controls and settings of the control board. th-cam.com/video/cZErnzd53IA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YV6pShIzjPvIuIyn downloads.hearthnhome.com/installmanuals/accentra_insert.pdf Hope that is helpful. Thanks.
I have a Quadrafire 1200i that will start up, feed pellets, and run okay, but it will shut off at 73 degrees (no matter what the thermostat is set at), the red light comes on and it has to be reset before it will work again.
Hey Billy, This is a very odd situation. I would think first instinct would be a faulty thermostat but not 100% sure. I would test the t-stat with a continuity tester to see if it is truly shutting off at the 73 degree mark. You could also try a different wall thermostat just to rule it out. Keep us posted, happy to help!
Does the Harman p61manual use these discs or is the ESP probe responsible for this function. I Have looked on the elec. diagrams and cannot see anything. I Have a 2008 stove and my PC board blew this year. The new board has been giving me grief, shutting the stove down. The DIP switches are set correctly. It happened at the end of the season so I was unable to run it to much to troubleshoot it. Just wondering it these switched are in play to help me troubleshoot. Thanks
Thanks for contacting us MaryJane. The Harman P61A does not use any snap discs/Limit Switches. Harman uses the ESP thermister probe instead which handles the electronic and safety aspects that these switches normally would. Once you fire the stove back up and get a good assessment of what's going on, we are happy to help you troubleshoot and get back to 100%. I will note that your stove does have a vacuum switch. The vacuum switch will shut down the fuel feed if it's tripped. Here is an overview video on the vacuum switch th-cam.com/video/pHeQzUmSlIE/w-d-xo.html Thanks, ESESstoves
Thanks for the message Owen. On some models the heat/feed settings and blower/fan settings work together. Meaning if I have my heat setting/feed setting at a 1 or 2 level, and I try to turn my blower to a max speed, it will not allow it to. For best efficiency it's recommended to have the blower speed/settings in line or close to the heat/feed settings. If that is not the case with your model, I would recommend the following: Make sure the blower fins/impeller wheel is clean of dust and debris. A Dry paint Brush and compressed air are great tools for cleaning the blower fan. If no change when the blower is clean, grab a multi-meter and check to see if the voltage going to the blower is adjusting as you are changing the fan speed. If output voltage to the blower is not changing as you move to different speeds/ settings, then we would take a closer look at the control board. If the output voltage to the blower is changing as you adjust the speed settings, yet your blower is not ramping up or ramping down CFM/air velocity, then we would take a closer look at the blower motor itself. Hope that is helpful, keep us posted. Thanks!
I just got a warlock hersey pellet stove everything works now except the convection blower comes on and shuts off there's two of them will they come on when the Firebox gets hot enough or is it a bad circuit board or what do you think.great explanatory video.
Thanks for the message, happy to help. Warnock Hersey will be the testing/certification lab for the stove; most stoves are tested by Warnock and will have that stamped in to the UL label on the stove. Is there any owners manual or any other indication on the UL label on the stove for the make and model? It will be very helpful as we troubleshoot. Some stoves have a low limit switch in line with the convection blower that will close once the unit gets warm enough turning the blower on and opens once it meets the set temperature on cool down shutting the blower off. If a stove had a blower limit switch like this and if that switch was failing, the blower may intermittently turn on and off. Other stoves do not have a blower low limit switch - some will have a sensing probe in the exhaust, others it is programmed into the circuit board for on/off timing. You can test the blowers as well to direct power to make sure the motors themselves are solid. Here's a video on creating a test cord to test direct. th-cam.com/video/rlmiCYI2WPk/w-d-xo.html Keep us posted if you can find the make and model of your stove. Thanks!
Model Freeland Flame-V Stove insert Test standard ASTM-E1509-95, ULC S627-M93,ULC 628-M93,VL,1482-1994. Thank you for your response. Have a most great day
@@TheHardhickey Thanks for the information. First I have heard of a Freeland Flame Stove. I did a decent amount of researching online, but I could not find an owners manual for this unit, let alone parts or the manufacturer website/contact information. Without any info on this unit the best I can say would be to closely look at your electrical schematic in the stove. See if there is a limit switch in line with the convection blower wiring. I wish we could be of better assistance here. Thanks.
I have a brand new Castle Serenity stove. I just fired up my stove for the first time. It ran fine for about 30 minutes and then quit. There was an "auger jammed" message on the panel. There was a video that was about the same problem, and it turned out to be the temperature limit switch. It has a manual reset on it. My stove was only set to 3 for heat range with 5 being the highest setting so I really don't understand how this could happen? Now I have to disconnect the flue and air intake pipes so that I can take off the back panel and check to see if this is the problem. These stoves are too damn heavy to be moving around all the time so that they can be worked on, and I just got it all set up! What do you think could keep this from happening in the future? Does the blower voltage or the exhaust voltage need to be increased to solve this problem?
Thanks for contacting us, sorry to hear of all the difficulty you are having with the new stove. We have never carried the Castle Serenity model, so it's hard for us to be able to provide specifics here. I would say that it is extremely odd for a brand new stove to have the high limit trip like that. Generally speaking the high limit switch will only trip if the Distribution/Room Air Fan stops working, or if there is a major build-up in the firepot and the fire is considerably larger and hotter than it would ever be running on the highest setting in proper operation. Tripping when it is brand new like that running on a #3 heat setting, I would say there is most likely an issue with that switch and the manufacturer should replace that under warranty. Sometimes we will see things like this from the factory with other stove lines we handle. Our tech personnel fires each stove for a period of time before going out so we can catch any factory issues and cure the paint before the customer receives. In your case I would suggest reaching out directly to the manufacturer and letting them know what you experienced; most likely here it's a faulty high limit. Hope that helps. Thanks!
@@EarthSense Thanks for the reply. Turns out that the blower was not turning on at all. I had the side panels off to get to the reset switch, so I was able to see inside the stove while it was on. I saw the fire die down again after about 20 minutes of starting it, so I went over to take a closer look. I could see that the blower was not moving, and the top of the stove was very hot. I spun the blower fan a few times and it finally started up. Great quality control huh lol?
@@MRM-wp4gr Ahh... Now that makes sense that the high limit was tripping - your blower wasn't turning on. Let's make sure to keep an eye on that blower; possibly just a stuck bushing/bearing, but let's keep an eye on it to make sure it's working as it should moving forward. Keep us posted, always happy to help however we can. Thanks!
I guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to log back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me!
I have an Avalon Newport Bay that all of a sudden just lost power. I tried to change the fuse in the old control box and it did nothing. I bought a new control box and it still does nothing. No power. Could one of these snap discs be the cause of my no power?
Thanks for contacting us. No, there would not be a snap switch or safety sensor in the Newport that has the the ability to shut down power to the unit. If you have a basic multi-meter, let's follow the electricity from the wall outlet to the unit. Let's make sure the outlet has proper polarity and is providing a voltage read of 110-120V. Depending on the year, you should see either a wire junction or wire leads that the stoves electrical cord connects to. Let's make sure the voltage is coming through the cord. From there we want to check wire harness that connects to the circuit board. Use a good light and see if there are any burnt or bare wires. Double check all electrical connection points as well. Keep us posted with what you find. Thanks.
Hey Paul, Happy to help. When you say keep on running do you mean that the auger motor will run non stop at times? If you find the auger motor is running continuous/non stop that would generally indicate an issue with the control board on that model. If the auger motor is just running intermittent, I would suggest you do a bench test on the motor and check the torque or the motor shaft. (Happy to guide you through that if needed) Inspect the Auger End Plate Bushing and see if there is heavy wear. Could still be a control board issues, but always important to check the simple stuff first.
@@EarthSense Thank you for your reply. I am checking into the motor and bearing today. Will let you know how I make out. I runs intermittently. Runs stops, runs stops one right after the other.
Also one of the brown wires on the control board was disconnected from the plug end so I just stuck it in where I thought it would go. I don't have a schematic to actually see where it goes.
Thanks for contacting us PJ. Ran this past our lead tech - That is a tough one to diagnose without being near the stove. If it is a recurring thing at the same time each day, I would say it is an issue with the schedule set in the stove. If it is random, it could be a failing computer board but hard to say for sure. Feel free to call us and ask for technical assistance or you can call Harman direct for technical assistance. Thanks
It starts up showing it's shutting off periodically throughout the day. No set time. The place I bought it from came and installed a new board. Harman Co. thinks it's low power surges occurring, but we have it plugged into a surge protector.
Thanks for the message back PJ. On this one I would suggest calling Harman direct and speaking with their technical team to help diagnose what the issue may be here. On your end you can check the simple things with the power output - make sure the polarity is correct in the outlet, make sure the voltage output is correct and consistent, and make sure the surge protector isn't causing some odd issue here. Hope that's helpful, thanks.
I have a quadrafire 1200. Pellet stove. The call light will not come on. There is power to the board but it will not call for heat. There is no power to thermostat,or to the pressure switch either. I have replaced the main board and the number 2 snap disk. Blowed thru the hose on the pressure switch and ran a diagnostics with the board on 0. The pressure switch jumpered and the number 2 disk jumped. Both blowed motors work and the auger functions. I set the box to 1 and connect the snap disk and pressure switch and plug stove back in. Turn up the thermostat and still get no power to call light. No power to number 1 snap disc ( yellow wire ) power to number 2(purple wire) no power to pressure switch. Power to number 3 snap disc. Fuse is good. No power to reset button. Do you have any ideas? Please.
Thanks for the message. Let's take a close look at the thermostat terminal where your thermostat wires go into. Get a good light and inspect all wiring and connections. If possible, try an alternate low millivolt thermostat. You can also jumper the thermostat terminal by placing a paperclip or large staple between the two thermostat wire connection points. Let us know if you're call light comes on when you jumper that. Happy to help get you back up and running. Thanks.
@@EarthSense that does nothing. Ther is only like 3 volts at the thermostat wires. Same where they come out of the box. The call light still does not come on.
Thanks for the message. Not all too familiar with the technical on the Comfortbuilt stove models. Ran this question past our tech team, here are a couple notes from them: I believe there is a temp sensor, thermistor, attached to the auger tube. Could be a hopper feed obstruction, check that first. Hope this helpful, good to check all the simple things first.
@@EarthSense yea there's a temp sensor on the feed tube. And I've checked a bunch fir feeder jams and nothing. All ports are clean and exhaust and air intake are setup to spec. Had one tech guy increase the exhaust blower from 98volts to 102 volts to see if maybe it wasn't getting enough draft in the low settings thanks for your reply
@@thegreatbait6995 Thanks for the message back. If you haven't yet, let's bypass the temp sensor on the feed tube to see if that is the culprit. We only want to bypass for troubleshooting, very important to never leave a safety switch bypassed. Here's a video that will walk you through it. Keep us posted, happy to help. th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html
my quadrafire was working perfect.......then the fire got to high and i believe it tripped the high pressure switch....although i couldnt reset it.....after i opened up the door to get the flame undercontrol......i typically reset it when that happens but this time it didnt work ?
Thanks for contacting us. I would suggest checking the High Limit Switch. In most Quadrafire models the High Limit has a manual reset. If the unit got to hot and it tripped it will need a manual reset. See if there is a center button on your high limit switch and push that in. Make sure the stove is unplugged when working with the electrical componentry back there. Keep us posted. Thanks!
Thank you for such a quick response yes I'm aware out of the three diss I have two of them have a reset button. I just cleaned the entire stove and tried to start it and it's doing the same thing. One thing I did notice I reached in there to double check that disc number three to make sure it was reset and it was awfully warm and the stove hadn't even fired is that a sign of some sort? Thanks
ok ive learned the 3rd disc is constant power and would be warm to the touch. Ive jumped the vac switch, and the number two disc, seperately and at the same time.....and still the same thing. ignitor works....light on in the control box,...just no feed. auger is new last season btw and vac switch. UGH
@@Dooguy What model Quadrafire do you have? Let's take a closer look at the thermocouple (hangs over the firepot). That would be the only other safety mechanism that has control over the feed. Remove the Thermocouple cover - thermocouple ends should have a solderpoint ball at the tip creating the circuit to both wires. Let's check the electrical connections on the Thermocouple as well.
I recently had a big burn back, and my snap disc didn't trip. can I run a wire from the current snap disc and add one to the feeder shaft so it will theoretically trip then send the signal to the already installed snap disc, which sends a signal to shut the stove off. Thanks for any help
Hey Kevin thanks for the message. What stove make and model do you have? Yeah, if fire is going up that feed chute the heat will get intense by the rear firewall and the the high limit switch is designed to trip in that kind of circumstance. With yours not tripping there may be an issue with the switch not opening and closing properly. We would not recommend altering the components or wiring. There is a very detailed certification and testing process each stove has to go through and modifying the stove in anyway could create a very serious safety hazard and liability. I'm guessing the High Limit in your unit is stuck in the closed position and most likely needs replacement. Happy to help!
@@EarthSense I have a breckwell p2000i Tahoe. I was just thinking of adding a disc by the auger where there's a couple of existing screws so that it could catch a fire in the feeder just Incase. Do you think this would at least work? I talked to someone over the phone with over 40 years experience (not about adding a snap cap) and they recommended changing my convection and exhaust blower. The stove was really dirty, i discovered that behind the metal wall is hollow and was all full of ash that I've never cleaned because I didn't know existed). The technician said it's never just dirty, there's always something in addition to that. btw, I installed an earth sense auger 2 years ago. the auger shaft got so hot it shattered the link between the shaft and the auger, but the auger is still turning! 😅
@@Dr.kittens Thanks for the message Kevin. If there are existing screws there was there a switch there at some point? Not too familiar with the electrical Schematic of the P2000i. All I can say is the parts that are in the stove should be working properly as it comes from factory and in the event of a burnback, the high limit should trip to shut down the feed motor. In my experience, ash accumulation in the stove and vent is the cause for more than 80% of service calls and issues that arise. Keeping the stove clean from accumulated ash will result in better performance, efficiency, and less headaches for sure. I would only recommend changing the convection blower and combustion fan if there were issues with the motors - Failing/squealing/improper voltage output. Just because the unit is older and needed a cleaning does not indicate that your motors require replacement. One of our best tools for cleaning is a leaf blower vac. On a cold stove, you put the sucking end on the exhaust vent outside. It will pull out the hard to access ash accumulation in the exhaust, exhaust housing, rear firewall and heat exchange area. We are out of stock on them, but they can be found at a Lowes or Home Depot - Reference - pellethead.com/product/toro-vacuum-leafblower-pellet-corn-stove-exhaust-vent-cleaning-system-3-4-venting/ As for the high limit, your P2000i uses a 300 - 50F switch. Meaning it will open if temps exceed 300 degrees Fahrenheit and will auto reset at 250 degree Fahrenheit. Looks like we are currently Out of stock on this switch as well, but here is a reference - pellethead.com/product/breckwell-us-stove-high-limit-thermodisc-60t21-300-50-degree-safety-snap-switch-oem/ Wow, I don't think I have ever hear of an auger shaft shattering that connection point. That's pretty wild.. Incase needed, here is also the owners manual for your stove. Again, Maintenance and cleaning out the ash is crucial for proper function and overall performance. manualmachine.com/breckwell/p2000fs/1010126-user-manual-2/
@@EarthSense there isn't 2 next to each other like there was a cap there, I'm just thinking if there is one and Maybe use extra pellet gasket glue to glue the other end to the stove for the full response. Since I have an extra set of wires the same size as the current snap disc, I would just splice them together to add an additional disc. Also forgot to mention I was thinking of doing that because this is the third time I've had a burn back. This one was just incredibly bad and happened while i wasn't home, the other two times it didn't seem dirty however I didn't know the afore mentioned large vent meant to catch ash behind the wall of where the pellets burn. That's a great suggestion! I already have a suction leaf blower I can use, I'll just have to check if the attachments will fit. for sure I'm going to replace all those small switches and test my current snap cap. I just saw a video about hooking up a volto meter to the blowers to test them. I'll also try that see if I get any satisfying results. I took pictures of the broken feeder shaft (at the bottom the part outside the stove), I would post them if I could. Thank you for all your help!
@@Dr.kittens Absolutely Kevin, happy to assist! On your motors, during start-up cycle the combustion blower should be reading near line voltage (105-115v) The Convection Fan when it comes on will run at a voltage according to the heat settings, however you should see a pretty noticeable difference in voltage as you go through the different heat settings/levels. Keep us posted on things, always happy to help! Thanks!
We have a Quadrafire 1200. It starts up like a good stove should, heats up, reaches thermostat temperature and shuts down like a good stove should. However, when temperature drops, red call light goes on, it dumps pellets, igniter heats up ( have checked, it glows), but pellets will not ignite (the get a little burned). Will one of these switches cause it not to re light after a normal heat up and shut down? It has a new thermocouple and have cleaned, cleaned and cleaned! Thank you.
Sorry for not seeing your message sooner. It's the air rushing around the igniter that is lighting the pellet fuel. Let's make sure you are getting a good seal on the front door and ash door. Double check the burnpot bottom and make sure that appears to be sealing tightly. Glad to hear it's been cleaned well - any air losses or air blockages can create ignition issues. Also, even though the igniter is glowing it may not be in proper ohm range. Always good to do a quick OHM test to make sure. If you have the standard 300 watt loop igniter, ohm range should be 43.0-53.5 to be in proper range. Here is a video that will cover igniter troubleshooting a bit more. th-cam.com/video/z4wmCc96rVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=k4BPNj50f5s0DTI3 Keep us posted, happy to help.
Thank you for your reply and suggestion. I don't quite have the expertise to check the OHM, however, I have two new igniters and get the same result. Here is an update... Someone gave me a suggestion to adjust the pellet feed to full open. I did this and (to my surprise) ran perfectly for 2-1/2 days! Unfortunately, it started doing the very same thing again. Just FYI, in addition to all the cleaning I have changed out the thermostat, thermocouple, control box and twice the igniter. Checked all the seals with a $1 bill and made sure the clean out at the bottom of the burn pot is tight against the pot bottom. I am in the process of trying to locate a technician, but they are scarce in our area. I very much appreciate your response and assistance. Should you have additional suggestions, PLEASE don't bother with it until you have time after Christmas. Hope yours will be very blessed. Thank You.
@@MelindaMcDonald-ku1ew Thanks for the message back Melinda - appreciate you covering everything. So with everything you mentioned, it sounds like the unit is just not delivering enough fuel on start-up for proper ignition. Some pellet fuel is longer than other pellet fuel and that can certainly come into play. Some pellet fuel has higher moisture content than other pellets and that can definitely come in to play as well. It would be interesting to do a test with a few bags of different kind of pellets and see if there is a change. Additionally, I assume you have the clear control box in the unit - When setting up the control box dial, there is a second setting that will increase the fuel 10% on start-up - for the 1200, that will be setting #2 (Link Below). If working with any of the circuitry just make sure the stove is unplugged from the wall. I hope you have a wonderful Christmas as well! Keep us posted. Thank You. th-cam.com/video/mgfUCtbzU5c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0GIidxMyEdaTsp60
Thank you once again for your continued support. Yes, we changed out to another brand as suggested but results are the same. Heats great for a few hours, then randomly chooses to not ignite. If we clean out the un lit pellets, they amount to almost 4 hand fulls, which sure seems like enough! Just one other thing, if we set the thermostat very high, so it dosen't cycle through the stop and restart cycles, it continues to heat just fine. @@EarthSense
@@MelindaMcDonald-ku1ew Apologies on the delay Melinda - was traveling. Thanks for the information, glad you tried another brand of pellets. 4 handfuls of pellets in the burnpot is a lot; should be more like a handful or two that comes in during the initial start-up cycle. Too much fuel in the burnpot on start-up can cause issues including explosive ignition. Is it always feeding that many pellets during start-up? With proper fuel dropping during start-up, knowing the pellet fuel is good, and with the igniter in proper ohm range, the only other thing that would be preventing periodic ignition would be air-flow. Even small amounts of air flow issues can cause ignition failures. I know you have looked at these things, but I will list them here again. 1. Burnpot holes fully open 2. Burnpot bottom closing tight 3. Burnpot gasket sealing tight 3. Ash Pan Gasket sealing tight 4. Front door rope gasket and glass gasket sealing tight 5. Stove, ash traps, venting thoroughly cleaned of ash accumulation. 6. Combustion motor running at proper voltage (Should be near line voltage on start-up). We do generally recommend having the thermostat on high for consistent operation on low, med, or high in cold winter months so it's not cycling on and off. However, we still want to find out the area or part that is creating the issue with reignition. Happy to help, keep us posted.
Yes, for troubleshooting you can bypass a switch. We never want to leave a safety switch bypassed, just for troubleshooting. Here's a video that will walk you through creating a jumper wire to do this. th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html Any other questions please let us know. Thanks.
I have a bosca 500 spirit 500 stove is 13 years old but sat in a warehouse fore 10 years I got it new three years ago I’m getting number 2 light flashing telling me exhaust obstruction I clean it out both fans remove also even cleaned vent pipe stove is now working with a glitch the room blower go’s high blow for less then a min the low back and forth I have fan locked on height shouldn’t lowerer at all would that be high limit swicth or contol board
James, thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we have never handled the Bosca line of stoves. Generally speaking the high limit switch is a safety switch that will shut down the auger motor if the unit gets to hot. Some stoves have a low limit for the room air blower that allows the blower to lock in once the stove gets warm enough. If that switch was intermittently faulty it may cause the blower to kick on and off. With you describing the blower fluctuating from high to low, in most stoves that voltage is going to be controlled by the control board. Possibly you can check in direct with the manufacturer and see what advise they can provide as well. Sorry we couldn't be of further assistance. Thanks.
You can do a continuity test on the snap disc with a basic multi meter. Low limit switches will normally be open, high limits normally closed. You would need to put the switch in a vice or something similar, and use a pencil torch to heat the bottom of the switch. Low limit will create continuity when it's hot enough and high limit will break continuity when it's hot enough. There's a small disc inside of the limit switch, you will hear it pop/snap as it heats up and passes the determined temperature. If the snap disc is in the stove, you can create a jumper wire to test - Video below. Jumper wire bypassing is for TROUBLESHOOTING ONLY, we never want to leave a safety switch bypassed. Keep us posted, happy to help. th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html
I have a king pellet stove kp130 i think the high limit temp switch has tripped. Would you know where its located. I cant find it in the owners mannual
Thanks for contacting us. It's very odd as the owners manual discusses Error Code ERR1 as the High Limit Temperature Sensor being tripped, however the parts breakdown shows no High Limit Switch and the Wiring Diagram shows no high limit switch. I've searched and can't find a part number or anyone selling a high limit for the KP130 model. It's very puzzling. Generally speaking, the high limit switch is either located on the exterior auger shaft chute or it will be by the distribution/convection blower. Here is a direct link to the USSC phone support as well www.usstove.com/support/ KP130 Manual - Page 19-21 www.manualslib.com/manual/2172323/United-States-Stove-Kp130.html?page=20#manual Hope that helps, keep us posted with what you figure out. Thanks,
So my fire keeps going out sending POF error code. We finally replaced the switch after trying everything else. the fire stayed on a lot longer then before but it's still going out and won't stay so idk what else could be wrong.
Happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? Have you checked the electrical outlet yet? Please send us as much info as possible; happy to assist. Thanks!
Hey Josh, thanks for the message. The switch could be locked closed not having the ability to open. This could cause that error. You would need to heat the base of that limit switch past the degree that is stated (Probably 200 or 250 Fahrenheit). Once it reaches that temperature it should 'Open' /Break Continuity. The lower number that's on the limit switch will be the temperature at which it resets if it's an auto reset switch. Usually that number is 20 - 40 degrees. If it's a manual reset switch there will be a button in the center; push to reset. When the High Limit resets it should be in the closed position. If your going to test the switch I recommend safety first. You can put the switch in a vise away from any combustibles. A small pencil torch can work well to heat up the base. Use your multi-meter and see if it's opening and closing as it should. New switches aren't too much, happy to send a link if you need one. Keep us posted, happy to help.
Thanks for contacting us. Based on that information I would say that is an indication that the limit switch is weak/failing. What stove make and model do you have and which limit switch is an issue? Happy to help.
Do all pellet stoves snap disc auto/manual reset themselves? or are there some that need replacing after they are triggered? Avalon Newport (Avanti PS) serial # 2301-126703 Thanks...I enjoy your videos.
Thanks for the message Danny. Yes, all snap discs in pellet stoves will either auto reset or have a manual reset after triggered. We have obviously seen snap discs go bad and stay stuck in the open or closed position. Which Snap Disc in your Avanti is giving you troubles? Here's a video on creating a jumper wire to troubleshoot the snap disc in question. th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html Happy to help, keep us posted. Thanks.
@@EarthSense Excuse my ignorance, but I'm not sure that any are giving me problems. What happened: I cleaned my pipes last year and when I tried to start it, it was smoking out various pipe seems. I resealed all the pipe and it wouldn't start. I thought it best to change the door seal and the vacuum switch. I did do the dollar bill seal test as well as the jumper for the switch. All was well, but no start. This is what what's happening: Turn the stove to manual, push start button, exhaust fan comes on, pellets drop, igniter glows but DOES NOT ignite pellets. I'm stumped. There are no technicians that will look at it, I'm kind of on my own. Any suggestions? Thanks for your videos.
@@dannyschacht4274 Thanks for the message Danny. Glad you got the pipes resealed; it's important to ensure carbon monoxide is not leaking into the home during operation. It is the combustion blower/exhaust fan that rushes air past the igniter during start-up. The super heated air is what is actually igniting the pellet fuel during start-up. Any air loss or air blockage will create ignition issues. I would suggest starting with the basics first. 1. Make sure the burnpot is seated properly and all holes are open. 2. Make sure the air intake coming into the burnpot is not blocked or restricted. 3. Make sure the exhaust is not blocked or restricted. 4. Do a voltage test on your exhaust fan - should be near line voltage during start-up. 5. Do an OHM reading on the igniter element. For the Avanti Igniter you should get a reading of 54.5 - 63.0 ohms for operable range. 6. Double check the front door and ash door seals all the way around. Keep us posted, I'm confident we can get you back up and running again. Thanks!
Yes, you are absolutely 100% right on this. I should have said '250 Dash 40' or something of that nature. Yes it is 250-40 Degrees F. Thank You for your help, and let us know of any other questions or comments. Appreciated!
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Thank you for the information. My local appliance repair companies are booked out until early to late December! Your videos helped me trouble shoot my issue and had my pellet stove going in around an hour. Thats having never owned or opperated one. Also included video watching time lol. Saved me $180. Thanks again!
That's fantastic to hear Daniel! So glad we could be of assistance and save you time and money - more importantly you are warm once again. Thanks for sharing, if you need any help down the road just give us a shout. Thanks!
Very informative videos.
Your descriptions are easy to understand.
Thanks.
Thank you! Certainly our pleasure, very pleased you found them informative. Any future questions please let us know. Thanks!
I have a Whitfield Profile 30 insert pellets stove and are experiencing hard starts, pellet burn pot overflowing with pellets pre start, one it gets running it runs well for 8 hours or so then has the same start issue, flame is lazy. Stove has been cleaned multiple times, exhaust pipe cleaned, igniter replaced and photo eye was also replaced, stove is 25 years old and have replaced igniters multiple times and exhaust and combustion motors 1 time, any insight would be appreciated
Thanks for contacting us. Definitely sounds like this is an air-flow issue - we either have an air loss or an air blockage issue somewhere which is creating these issues. I know you mentioned your cleaning and replacement parts here, but I will outline below what I would suggest checking.
1. Ash accumulation in the stove or venting. Detailed cleaning, especially the ash traps, rear firewall, and combustion blower housing manifold that leads to the vent pipe. Oftentimes there is a 90 degree elbow or a Tee on an insert like this - check for ash blockage between the combustion housing and into the vent pipe. You can use the sucking part of a leafblower/Vac on the exhaust outside to help pull out any stuck ash after you have run a brush through. Make sure the stove is off, cold, and unplugged. For the back firewall, remove the brick panel and give the rear firewall some taps with a mallet. You can also fish bottle brushes up there through the ash trap openings on the left and right. Overtime, significant ash builds up in the back firewall and restricts the combustion air flow.
2. Air intake under the burnpot - check for blockages or obstructions. If you are drawing in fresh air from outside, check the air intake pipe.
3. Check Burnpot for proper seating and make sure all burnpot holes are open.
4. Check the front door gasket and glass gasket to ensure it's making a tight seal all the way around. Use a dollar bill, half in half out, close the door and pull. Check in multiple areas. Should be heavy resistance. Make sure the stove is off when doing this. Inspect the glass gasket closely.
5. Inspect the combustion motor and motor gasket seals. Motor should be operating near line voltage on start-up (110-125V). If either the round motor gasket or oblong motor housing gasket is not making a proper seal, it will leak air. Generally speaking these gaskets should be replaced every time the motor or housing is removed for cleaning/maintenance or when replaced. Even if it is not removed, these gaskets can become brittle and no longer making a proper seal over a few seasons.
Here is the owners manual if you need it for reference. www.manualslib.com/manual/1274603/Whitfield-Profile-20-Fs.html#product-Profile%2030%20INS
Happy to walk you through anything specific if needed. Keep us posted.
I have a switch on my old P61 that the feed system arm lands on every revolution of the cam. Harmon doesn't make it anymore but they say they have replaced that switch with some changes in the newer circuit board so it is not needed anymore. Also there are 2 wires going to it, do I just wire them together to complete the circuit/continuity? Also do I change out that arm that has the extra weight attached or leave it on and just let it do its thing? Thank you, great videos!
Thanks for the message here. If you change to the new style control board, leave the wires open/disconnected on that switch. The pusher arm does not need to be replaced, just leave it do its thing. Hope that is helpful, any other questions let us know. Thanks!
Thanks for the information. Is a "high limit safety switch" the same as a vacume switch on a new englander pellet stove?? Thanks again...
Thanks for the message. No, the vacuum switch will be a separate safety switch from the high limit switch. Some Englander models have two vacuum switches. The vacuum switch senses pressure in your firebox and exhaust. The high limit switch is designed to open if temperatures exceed a certain set point. Both of these switches are in line with the auger motor and will shut the feed system down if there is a safety issue or if the switch is faulty. Let us know which model Englander you have and what kind of issues you are experiencing.
Here's a video overview on the vacuum switch for reference - th-cam.com/video/pHeQzUmSlIE/w-d-xo.html
Happy to help!
I have been helping a elderly neighbor try to get her stove working (it's her only heat source). It is a Quadrature 1200. Basically the auger drops a handful of pellets lights them, no additional pellets feed, then it goes out. If you fill the fire pot with pellets, the stove lights and starts feeding. Presumably the thermocouple is not getting hot enough during the initial feed, since it is only feeding a very small amount of pellets, but filling the fire pit with pellets before startup gets it hot enough. The stove is very dirty, looks like it has never been cleaned. I checked that there is power to the vacuum switch, but I have not tested the switch itself yet. My guess is it is just so filthy that the high limit or vacuum switches are triggering. I have advised her to have it cleaned. What other things would cause it not to feed properly initially?
Thanks Jeremy, happy to help. Yes, the thermocouple acts as the proof of fire and gives signal to the control box when it reaches proper temp during start-up. This allows the unit to go into normal operation. 95% of issues are related to cleaning and maintenance of the unit. That would be the first thing I would recommend be completed. Blockage of ash can easily trip the vacuum switch. Generally you will notice a lazy fire with black soot when there is significant ash build-up. Without proper air velocity to the burnpot the thermocouple may not be able to lock in as you mentioned. The only other thing that would stiffen pellets during the start-up sequence would be dry spaces in the auger. The 1200 can have a tendency to have pellets funnel from the middle. If the auger has dry spots generally not enough pellets feed during start-up to get the Thermocouple to proper temp. Hope that helps. If you need the operation & maintenance manual just let us know and we can send that over. Thanks
@@EarthSense Thanks much!
@@jeremybowen3097 Absolutely Jeremy, keep us posted!
I have a Quadra Fire CB1200 FS. It does not feed enough pellets to bring the fire the normal 4-6 inches out of the firepot. The auger is turning but doesn't seem to be turning long enough. The stove is set wide open and we even increased the control box to the + 10 % setting. Any ideas??
Thanks for the message. Generally speaking the fire will be around that height only on a high setting. Medium and low settings will have less flame height. The +10 setting on the control box only affects fuel feed on start-up, not during normal operation of the stove. You do have a feed slide inside the hopper where you can push it down or pull it up to allow more or less pellets to enter the auger shaft during operation. Flame height can also depend on the type of pellet - possibly try a couple brands to see if you notice a difference. When operating on the low setting, the 1200 will use approx 2lbs/hr. on high approx 5lbs per hour. Do timing tests on the different heat settings. There is always the possibility that the auger motor is weak or the control box isn't providing the correct feed signals, however it is always important to check the simple things first. Keep us posted, happy to help.
To clarify, a 120º-20 NO switch closes at 120ºF and then opens when it drops 20ºF below the 120ºF mark so at 100ºF. Not when it reached 20ºF (which would be below freezing). Same with a NC limit switch 200º-40. It opens at 200º and then re-closes at 160º (not at 40ºF). The "-##" portion of the model designation is the temperature differential required to reset. Otherwise, helpful video.
Yes that is all correct. Thank you for your input. Apologies about the incorrect information in the video. Thanks again.
Pelpro 70 ,best stove out there as far as reliable.simple to run,clean and repair.bypassed the switches,sanded and polished the auger,shimmed the feeder tube so it can't jam.padded auger motor mounts
.runs perfect and quiet.
Thanks for the message. It's extremely important that no switches are bypassed in the stove. Bypassing is for troubleshooting only. It's critical that all safety switches are connected properly and are operating properly. If you have any questions or need any replacement parts for your PP70 model just let us know. Thanks.
@EarthSense the 1 years warranty is a pain in the ass to get parts.still waiting for parts for one bought in December 23.piss poor warranty dept.
@@olivertaylor8788 Thanks for the message. If it was ordered through us, Let me know the name it was ordered under and I will look into it ASAP. Thanks.
@EarthSense I have 2 needing parts,one has vacume switch bad and control board is jumped to get the exhaust fan to run.the new one needs control board and exhaust fan won't cut off.both are running jumped because dam warranty people won't honor the warranty in a timely fashion, been 4 weeks trying to get control board,3 months getting parts for the older one.i had to order a $70 controller from Amazon 2 months ago on the one warranted till Feb 5 24.sorry ass warrenty.they get that $1200 and they don't know you then.
@@olivertaylor8788 Sorry to hear of the troubles. If any of your items were ordered through our company, I am happy to look into the status of everything; just let us know the name on the order. Thanks.
Hello happy New Year, I used a leave blower to clean out the exhaust motor&blower. Now the motor clicks on and gets Hot But doesn't turn fans in blower!
Thanks for contacting us Stephen, Happy New Year. Very odd.. We use the leafblower technique for all annual maintenance cleanings as well. I would suggest we try to run the exhaust motor to direct power and see what happens. We want to determine if it's an issue with the motor itself here. You can also do a voltage read with a multi-meter while the motor is in the unit. Should be close to line voltage on start-up. Here is a quick video on making a test cord. th-cam.com/video/rlmiCYI2WPk/w-d-xo.html
Keep us posted, happy to help however we can.
Thanks
I"ve got my pellet feed dialed all the way down to keep it from overfeeding, it"a Harman Accentra insert, any suggestions ?
Thanks for contacting us. In 90% cases if you are seeing what appears to be overfeeding issues, it is generally air flow issues - ash blockage or air leaks in the stove or venting. I would suggest performing a thorough cleaning on the stove and exhaust flue pipe venting. From there make sure the door gasket is sealing tight and the holes in the burnpot are all open. If the stove and vent is thoroughly cleaned and the unit still appears to be feeding to much fuel, just let us know and we can dive deeper into tech troubleshooting. Below is a manual on your model for cleaning reference and one of our Harman videos that will give a nice overview on the controls and settings of the control board.
th-cam.com/video/cZErnzd53IA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YV6pShIzjPvIuIyn
downloads.hearthnhome.com/installmanuals/accentra_insert.pdf
Hope that is helpful. Thanks.
I have a Quadrafire 1200i that will start up, feed pellets, and run okay, but it will shut off at 73 degrees (no matter what the thermostat is set at), the red light comes on and it has to be reset before it will work again.
Hey Billy, This is a very odd situation. I would think first instinct would be a faulty thermostat but not 100% sure. I would test the t-stat with a continuity tester to see if it is truly shutting off at the 73 degree mark. You could also try a different wall thermostat just to rule it out. Keep us posted, happy to help!
@@EarthSense Thank you very much, I'll try that.
@@billycox5591 Absolutely. Keep us posted on what you find, we'll help you get this figured out. Thanks!
Does the Harman p61manual use these discs or is the ESP probe responsible for this function. I Have looked on the elec. diagrams and cannot see anything. I Have a 2008 stove and my PC board blew this year. The new board has been giving me grief, shutting the stove down. The DIP switches are set correctly. It happened at the end of the season so I was unable to run it to much to troubleshoot it. Just wondering it these switched are in play to help me troubleshoot. Thanks
Thanks for contacting us MaryJane. The Harman P61A does not use any snap discs/Limit Switches. Harman uses the ESP thermister probe instead which handles the electronic and safety aspects that these switches normally would. Once you fire the stove back up and get a good assessment of what's going on, we are happy to help you troubleshoot and get back to 100%. I will note that your stove does have a vacuum switch. The vacuum switch will shut down the fuel feed if it's tripped. Here is an overview video on the vacuum switch th-cam.com/video/pHeQzUmSlIE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks,
ESESstoves
Your vids are excellent
Your videos have taught me how to completely rebuild a Winslow ps40
I have question on new englanded 2000sq ft pellet stove...fan speed doesn't blow harder as I change fan speed setting to max. What could be problem?
Thanks for the message Owen. On some models the heat/feed settings and blower/fan settings work together. Meaning if I have my heat setting/feed setting at a 1 or 2 level, and I try to turn my blower to a max speed, it will not allow it to. For best efficiency it's recommended to have the blower speed/settings in line or close to the heat/feed settings. If that is not the case with your model, I would recommend the following: Make sure the blower fins/impeller wheel is clean of dust and debris. A Dry paint Brush and compressed air are great tools for cleaning the blower fan. If no change when the blower is clean, grab a multi-meter and check to see if the voltage going to the blower is adjusting as you are changing the fan speed. If output voltage to the blower is not changing as you move to different speeds/ settings, then we would take a closer look at the control board. If the output voltage to the blower is changing as you adjust the speed settings, yet your blower is not ramping up or ramping down CFM/air velocity, then we would take a closer look at the blower motor itself. Hope that is helpful, keep us posted. Thanks!
Thank you...extremely helpful
Most Welcome John!
I just got a warlock hersey pellet stove everything works now except the convection blower comes on and shuts off there's two of them will they come on when the Firebox gets hot enough or is it a bad circuit board or what do you think.great explanatory video.
Thanks for the message, happy to help. Warnock Hersey will be the testing/certification lab for the stove; most stoves are tested by Warnock and will have that stamped in to the UL label on the stove. Is there any owners manual or any other indication on the UL label on the stove for the make and model? It will be very helpful as we troubleshoot. Some stoves have a low limit switch in line with the convection blower that will close once the unit gets warm enough turning the blower on and opens once it meets the set temperature on cool down shutting the blower off. If a stove had a blower limit switch like this and if that switch was failing, the blower may intermittently turn on and off. Other stoves do not have a blower low limit switch - some will have a sensing probe in the exhaust, others it is programmed into the circuit board for on/off timing. You can test the blowers as well to direct power to make sure the motors themselves are solid. Here's a video on creating a test cord to test direct. th-cam.com/video/rlmiCYI2WPk/w-d-xo.html
Keep us posted if you can find the make and model of your stove. Thanks!
Model Freeland Flame-V Stove insert Test standard ASTM-E1509-95, ULC S627-M93,ULC 628-M93,VL,1482-1994. Thank you for your response. Have a most great day
I left out tested both fans directly to AC they both work fine
@@TheHardhickey Thanks for the information. First I have heard of a Freeland Flame Stove. I did a decent amount of researching online, but I could not find an owners manual for this unit, let alone parts or the manufacturer website/contact information.
Without any info on this unit the best I can say would be to closely look at your electrical schematic in the stove. See if there is a limit switch in line with the convection blower wiring. I wish we could be of better assistance here. Thanks.
@@TheHardhickey Good to know both blowers are in proper working condition. I just left a message on the other comment for you. Thanks.
I have a brand new Castle Serenity stove. I just fired up my stove for the first time. It ran fine for about 30
minutes and then quit. There was an "auger jammed" message on the panel. There was a video that was about the same problem, and it turned out to be the temperature limit switch. It has a manual reset on it. My stove was only set to 3 for heat range with 5 being the highest setting so I really don't understand how this could happen? Now I have to disconnect the flue and air intake pipes so that I can take off the back panel and check to see if this is the problem. These stoves are too damn heavy to be moving around all the time so that they can be worked on, and I just got it all set up! What do you think could keep this from happening in the future? Does the blower voltage or the exhaust voltage need to be increased to solve this problem?
Thanks for contacting us, sorry to hear of all the difficulty you are having with the new stove. We have never carried the Castle Serenity model, so it's hard for us to be able to provide specifics here. I would say that it is extremely odd for a brand new stove to have the high limit trip like that. Generally speaking the high limit switch will only trip if the Distribution/Room Air Fan stops working, or if there is a major build-up in the firepot and the fire is considerably larger and hotter than it would ever be running on the highest setting in proper operation. Tripping when it is brand new like that running on a #3 heat setting, I would say there is most likely an issue with that switch and the manufacturer should replace that under warranty. Sometimes we will see things like this from the factory with other stove lines we handle. Our tech personnel fires each stove for a period of time before going out so we can catch any factory issues and cure the paint before the customer receives. In your case I would suggest reaching out directly to the manufacturer and letting them know what you experienced; most likely here it's a faulty high limit. Hope that helps. Thanks!
@@EarthSense Thanks for the reply. Turns out that the blower was not turning on at all. I had the side panels off to get to the reset switch, so I was able to see inside the stove while it was on. I saw the fire die down again after about 20 minutes of starting it, so I went over to take a closer look. I could see that the blower was not moving, and the top of the stove was very hot. I spun the blower fan a few times and it finally started up. Great quality control huh lol?
@@MRM-wp4gr Ahh... Now that makes sense that the high limit was tripping - your blower wasn't turning on. Let's make sure to keep an eye on that blower; possibly just a stuck bushing/bearing, but let's keep an eye on it to make sure it's working as it should moving forward. Keep us posted, always happy to help however we can. Thanks!
I guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know of a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot the login password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Anthony Alfredo Instablaster :)
I have an Avalon Newport Bay that all of a sudden just lost power. I tried to change the fuse in the old control box and it did nothing. I bought a new control box and it still does nothing. No power. Could one of these snap discs be the cause of my no power?
Thanks for contacting us. No, there would not be a snap switch or safety sensor in the Newport that has the the ability to shut down power to the unit. If you have a basic multi-meter, let's follow the electricity from the wall outlet to the unit. Let's make sure the outlet has proper polarity and is providing a voltage read of 110-120V. Depending on the year, you should see either a wire junction or wire leads that the stoves electrical cord connects to. Let's make sure the voltage is coming through the cord. From there we want to check wire harness that connects to the circuit board. Use a good light and see if there are any burnt or bare wires. Double check all electrical connection points as well. Keep us posted with what you find. Thanks.
I'm having a problem with my auger. Its on a Profile 30. The auger seems to want to keep on running intermediately. Any suggestions?
Hey Paul, Happy to help. When you say keep on running do you mean that the auger motor will run non stop at times? If you find the auger motor is running continuous/non stop that would generally indicate an issue with the control board on that model. If the auger motor is just running intermittent, I would suggest you do a bench test on the motor and check the torque or the motor shaft. (Happy to guide you through that if needed) Inspect the Auger End Plate Bushing and see if there is heavy wear. Could still be a control board issues, but always important to check the simple stuff first.
@@EarthSense Thank you for your reply. I am checking into the motor and bearing today. Will let you know how I make out. I runs intermittently. Runs stops, runs stops one right after the other.
Also one of the brown wires on the control board was disconnected from the plug end so I just stuck it in where I thought it would go. I don't have a schematic to actually see where it goes.
What causes a Harman Absolute 43 pellet stove to start up on its own and run for 30 seconds and then shut off on its own?
Thanks for contacting us PJ. Ran this past our lead tech - That is a tough one to diagnose without being near the stove. If it is a recurring thing at the same time each day, I would say it is an issue with the schedule set in the stove. If it is random, it could be a failing computer board but hard to say for sure.
Feel free to call us and ask for technical assistance or you can call Harman direct for technical assistance.
Thanks
It starts up showing it's shutting off periodically throughout the day. No set time. The place I bought it from came and installed a new board. Harman Co. thinks it's low power surges occurring, but we have it plugged into a surge protector.
Thanks for the message back PJ. On this one I would suggest calling Harman direct and speaking with their technical team to help diagnose what the issue may be here. On your end you can check the simple things with the power output - make sure the polarity is correct in the outlet, make sure the voltage output is correct and consistent, and make sure the surge protector isn't causing some odd issue here. Hope that's helpful, thanks.
I have a quadrafire 1200. Pellet stove. The call light will not come on. There is power to the board but it will not call for heat. There is no power to thermostat,or to the pressure switch either. I have replaced the main board and the number 2 snap disk. Blowed thru the hose on the pressure switch and ran a diagnostics with the board on 0. The pressure switch jumpered and the number 2 disk jumped. Both blowed motors work and the auger functions. I set the box to 1 and connect the snap disk and pressure switch and plug stove back in. Turn up the thermostat and still get no power to call light. No power to number 1 snap disc ( yellow wire ) power to number 2(purple wire) no power to pressure switch. Power to number 3 snap disc. Fuse is good. No power to reset button. Do you have any ideas? Please.
Thanks for the message. Let's take a close look at the thermostat terminal where your thermostat wires go into. Get a good light and inspect all wiring and connections. If possible, try an alternate low millivolt thermostat. You can also jumper the thermostat terminal by placing a paperclip or large staple between the two thermostat wire connection points. Let us know if you're call light comes on when you jumper that. Happy to help get you back up and running. Thanks.
@@EarthSense that does nothing. Ther is only like 3 volts at the thermostat wires. Same where they come out of the box. The call light still does not come on.
Yes I did jump the thermostat wires also.
@@JimHaskell-es8pe Thanks for the message back. Let me check in with our tech team and circle back around to you Jim. Be in touch soon.
@@EarthSense thank you.
I have a comfortbuilt hp22 runs for in between 6-8 hrs then gives a low temperature alarm. What could this be???
Thanks for the message. Not all too familiar with the technical on the Comfortbuilt stove models. Ran this question past our tech team, here are a couple notes from them: I believe there is a temp sensor, thermistor, attached to the auger tube. Could be a hopper feed obstruction, check that first. Hope this helpful, good to check all the simple things first.
@@EarthSense yea there's a temp sensor on the feed tube. And I've checked a bunch fir feeder jams and nothing. All ports are clean and exhaust and air intake are setup to spec. Had one tech guy increase the exhaust blower from 98volts to 102 volts to see if maybe it wasn't getting enough draft in the low settings thanks for your reply
@@thegreatbait6995 Thanks for the message back. If you haven't yet, let's bypass the temp sensor on the feed tube to see if that is the culprit. We only want to bypass for troubleshooting, very important to never leave a safety switch bypassed. Here's a video that will walk you through it. Keep us posted, happy to help.
th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html
my quadrafire was working perfect.......then the fire got to high and i believe it tripped the high pressure switch....although i couldnt reset it.....after i opened up the door to get the flame undercontrol......i typically reset it when that happens but this time it didnt work ?
Thanks for contacting us. I would suggest checking the High Limit Switch. In most Quadrafire models the High Limit has a manual reset. If the unit got to hot and it tripped it will need a manual reset. See if there is a center button on your high limit switch and push that in. Make sure the stove is unplugged when working with the electrical componentry back there. Keep us posted. Thanks!
Thank you for such a quick response yes I'm aware out of the three diss I have two of them have a reset button. I just cleaned the entire stove and tried to start it and it's doing the same thing. One thing I did notice I reached in there to double check that disc number three to make sure it was reset and it was awfully warm and the stove hadn't even fired is that a sign of some sort? Thanks
ok ive learned the 3rd disc is constant power and would be warm to the touch. Ive jumped the vac switch, and the number two disc, seperately and at the same time.....and still the same thing. ignitor works....light on in the control box,...just no feed. auger is new last season btw and vac switch. UGH
@@Dooguy What model Quadrafire do you have? Let's take a closer look at the thermocouple (hangs over the firepot). That would be the only other safety mechanism that has control over the feed. Remove the Thermocouple cover - thermocouple ends should have a solderpoint ball at the tip creating the circuit to both wires. Let's check the electrical connections on the Thermocouple as well.
I recently had a big burn back, and my snap disc didn't trip. can I run a wire from the current snap disc and add one to the feeder shaft so it will theoretically trip then send the signal to the already installed snap disc, which sends a signal to shut the stove off. Thanks for any help
Hey Kevin thanks for the message. What stove make and model do you have? Yeah, if fire is going up that feed chute the heat will get intense by the rear firewall and the the high limit switch is designed to trip in that kind of circumstance. With yours not tripping there may be an issue with the switch not opening and closing properly. We would not recommend altering the components or wiring. There is a very detailed certification and testing process each stove has to go through and modifying the stove in anyway could create a very serious safety hazard and liability. I'm guessing the High Limit in your unit is stuck in the closed position and most likely needs replacement. Happy to help!
@@EarthSense I have a breckwell p2000i Tahoe. I was just thinking of adding a disc by the auger where there's a couple of existing screws so that it could catch a fire in the feeder just Incase. Do you think this would at least work? I talked to someone over the phone with over 40 years experience (not about adding a snap cap) and they recommended changing my convection and exhaust blower. The stove was really dirty, i discovered that behind the metal wall is hollow and was all full of ash that I've never cleaned because I didn't know existed). The technician said it's never just dirty, there's always something in addition to that. btw, I installed an earth sense auger 2 years ago. the auger shaft got so hot it shattered the link between the shaft and the auger, but the auger is still turning! 😅
@@Dr.kittens Thanks for the message Kevin. If there are existing screws there was there a switch there at some point? Not too familiar with the electrical Schematic of the P2000i. All I can say is the parts that are in the stove should be working properly as it comes from factory and in the event of a burnback, the high limit should trip to shut down the feed motor. In my experience, ash accumulation in the stove and vent is the cause for more than 80% of service calls and issues that arise. Keeping the stove clean from accumulated ash will result in better performance, efficiency, and less headaches for sure. I would only recommend changing the convection blower and combustion fan if there were issues with the motors - Failing/squealing/improper voltage output. Just because the unit is older and needed a cleaning does not indicate that your motors require replacement. One of our best tools for cleaning is a leaf blower vac. On a cold stove, you put the sucking end on the exhaust vent outside. It will pull out the hard to access ash accumulation in the exhaust, exhaust housing, rear firewall and heat exchange area. We are out of stock on them, but they can be found at a Lowes or Home Depot - Reference - pellethead.com/product/toro-vacuum-leafblower-pellet-corn-stove-exhaust-vent-cleaning-system-3-4-venting/
As for the high limit, your P2000i uses a 300 - 50F switch. Meaning it will open if temps exceed 300 degrees Fahrenheit and will auto reset at 250 degree Fahrenheit. Looks like we are currently Out of stock on this switch as well, but here is a reference - pellethead.com/product/breckwell-us-stove-high-limit-thermodisc-60t21-300-50-degree-safety-snap-switch-oem/
Wow, I don't think I have ever hear of an auger shaft shattering that connection point. That's pretty wild.. Incase needed, here is also the owners manual for your stove. Again, Maintenance and cleaning out the ash is crucial for proper function and overall performance. manualmachine.com/breckwell/p2000fs/1010126-user-manual-2/
@@EarthSense there isn't 2 next to each other like there was a cap there, I'm just thinking if there is one and Maybe use extra pellet gasket glue to glue the other end to the stove for the full response. Since I have an extra set of wires the same size as the current snap disc, I would just splice them together to add an additional disc. Also forgot to mention I was thinking of doing that because this is the third time I've had a burn back. This one was just incredibly bad and happened while i wasn't home, the other two times it didn't seem dirty however I didn't know the afore mentioned large vent meant to catch ash behind the wall of where the pellets burn. That's a great suggestion! I already have a suction leaf blower I can use, I'll just have to check if the attachments will fit. for sure I'm going to replace all those small switches and test my current snap cap. I just saw a video about hooking up a volto meter to the blowers to test them. I'll also try that see if I get any satisfying results. I took pictures of the broken feeder shaft (at the bottom the part outside the stove), I would post them if I could. Thank you for all your help!
@@Dr.kittens Absolutely Kevin, happy to assist! On your motors, during start-up cycle the combustion blower should be reading near line voltage (105-115v) The Convection Fan when it comes on will run at a voltage according to the heat settings, however you should see a pretty noticeable difference in voltage as you go through the different heat settings/levels. Keep us posted on things, always happy to help! Thanks!
We have a Quadrafire 1200. It starts up like a good stove should, heats up, reaches thermostat temperature and shuts down like a good stove should. However, when temperature drops, red call light goes on, it dumps pellets, igniter heats up ( have checked, it glows), but pellets will not ignite (the get a little burned). Will one of these switches cause it not to re light after a normal heat up and shut down? It has a new thermocouple and have cleaned, cleaned and cleaned! Thank you.
Sorry for not seeing your message sooner. It's the air rushing around the igniter that is lighting the pellet fuel. Let's make sure you are getting a good seal on the front door and ash door. Double check the burnpot bottom and make sure that appears to be sealing tightly. Glad to hear it's been cleaned well - any air losses or air blockages can create ignition issues. Also, even though the igniter is glowing it may not be in proper ohm range. Always good to do a quick OHM test to make sure. If you have the standard 300 watt loop igniter, ohm range should be 43.0-53.5 to be in proper range. Here is a video that will cover igniter troubleshooting a bit more. th-cam.com/video/z4wmCc96rVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=k4BPNj50f5s0DTI3
Keep us posted, happy to help.
Thank you for your reply and suggestion. I don't quite have the expertise to check the OHM, however, I have two new igniters and get the same result. Here is an update... Someone gave me a suggestion to adjust the pellet feed to full open. I did this and (to my surprise) ran perfectly for 2-1/2 days! Unfortunately, it started doing the very same thing again. Just FYI, in addition to all the cleaning I have changed out the thermostat, thermocouple, control box and twice the igniter. Checked all the seals with a $1 bill and made sure the clean out at the bottom of the burn pot is tight against the pot bottom. I am in the process of trying to locate a technician, but they are scarce in our area. I very much appreciate your response and assistance. Should you have additional suggestions, PLEASE don't bother with it until you have time after Christmas. Hope yours will be very blessed. Thank You.
@@MelindaMcDonald-ku1ew Thanks for the message back Melinda - appreciate you covering everything. So with everything you mentioned, it sounds like the unit is just not delivering enough fuel on start-up for proper ignition. Some pellet fuel is longer than other pellet fuel and that can certainly come into play. Some pellet fuel has higher moisture content than other pellets and that can definitely come in to play as well. It would be interesting to do a test with a few bags of different kind of pellets and see if there is a change. Additionally, I assume you have the clear control box in the unit - When setting up the control box dial, there is a second setting that will increase the fuel 10% on start-up - for the 1200, that will be setting #2 (Link Below). If working with any of the circuitry just make sure the stove is unplugged from the wall. I hope you have a wonderful Christmas as well! Keep us posted. Thank You.
th-cam.com/video/mgfUCtbzU5c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0GIidxMyEdaTsp60
Thank you once again for your continued support. Yes, we changed out to another brand as suggested but results are the same. Heats great for a few hours, then randomly chooses to not ignite. If we clean out the un lit pellets, they amount to almost 4 hand fulls, which sure seems like enough! Just one other thing, if we set the thermostat very high, so it dosen't cycle through the stop and restart cycles, it continues to heat just fine. @@EarthSense
@@MelindaMcDonald-ku1ew Apologies on the delay Melinda - was traveling. Thanks for the information, glad you tried another brand of pellets. 4 handfuls of pellets in the burnpot is a lot; should be more like a handful or two that comes in during the initial start-up cycle. Too much fuel in the burnpot on start-up can cause issues including explosive ignition. Is it always feeding that many pellets during start-up? With proper fuel dropping during start-up, knowing the pellet fuel is good, and with the igniter in proper ohm range, the only other thing that would be preventing periodic ignition would be air-flow. Even small amounts of air flow issues can cause ignition failures. I know you have looked at these things, but I will list them here again.
1. Burnpot holes fully open
2. Burnpot bottom closing tight
3. Burnpot gasket sealing tight
3. Ash Pan Gasket sealing tight
4. Front door rope gasket and glass gasket sealing tight
5. Stove, ash traps, venting thoroughly cleaned of ash accumulation.
6. Combustion motor running at proper voltage (Should be near line voltage on start-up).
We do generally recommend having the thermostat on high for consistent operation on low, med, or high in cold winter months so it's not cycling on and off. However, we still want to find out the area or part that is creating the issue with reignition. Happy to help, keep us posted.
Can you by pass the limit switch to troubleshoot
Yes, for troubleshooting you can bypass a switch. We never want to leave a safety switch bypassed, just for troubleshooting. Here's a video that will walk you through creating a jumper wire to do this. th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html
Any other questions please let us know. Thanks.
Awesome video.
I have a bosca 500 spirit 500 stove is 13 years old but sat in a warehouse fore 10 years I got it new three years ago I’m getting number 2 light flashing telling me exhaust obstruction I clean it out both fans remove also even cleaned vent pipe stove is now working with a glitch the room blower go’s high blow for less then a min the low back and forth I have fan locked on height shouldn’t lowerer at all would that be high limit swicth or contol board
James, thanks for contacting us. Unfortunately we have never handled the Bosca line of stoves. Generally speaking the high limit switch is a safety switch that will shut down the auger motor if the unit gets to hot. Some stoves have a low limit for the room air blower that allows the blower to lock in once the stove gets warm enough. If that switch was intermittently faulty it may cause the blower to kick on and off. With you describing the blower fluctuating from high to low, in most stoves that voltage is going to be controlled by the control board. Possibly you can check in direct with the manufacturer and see what advise they can provide as well. Sorry we couldn't be of further assistance.
Thanks.
How can you tell when one is bad how would you test it
You can do a continuity test on the snap disc with a basic multi meter. Low limit switches will normally be open, high limits normally closed. You would need to put the switch in a vice or something similar, and use a pencil torch to heat the bottom of the switch. Low limit will create continuity when it's hot enough and high limit will break continuity when it's hot enough. There's a small disc inside of the limit switch, you will hear it pop/snap as it heats up and passes the determined temperature. If the snap disc is in the stove, you can create a jumper wire to test - Video below. Jumper wire bypassing is for TROUBLESHOOTING ONLY, we never want to leave a safety switch bypassed. Keep us posted, happy to help.
th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html
I have a king pellet stove kp130 i think the high limit temp switch has tripped. Would you know where its located. I cant find it in the owners mannual
Thanks for contacting us. It's very odd as the owners manual discusses Error Code ERR1 as the High Limit Temperature Sensor being tripped, however the parts breakdown shows no High Limit Switch and the Wiring Diagram shows no high limit switch. I've searched and can't find a part number or anyone selling a high limit for the KP130 model. It's very puzzling. Generally speaking, the high limit switch is either located on the exterior auger shaft chute or it will be by the distribution/convection blower. Here is a direct link to the USSC phone support as well www.usstove.com/support/
KP130 Manual - Page 19-21 www.manualslib.com/manual/2172323/United-States-Stove-Kp130.html?page=20#manual
Hope that helps, keep us posted with what you figure out.
Thanks,
@
Thanks. I will keep you posted. Calling them tomorrow
@@debyauger5621 Appreciate you keeping us posted. Thanks!
@ it was the control board fixed now
So my fire keeps going out sending POF error code. We finally replaced the switch after trying everything else. the fire stayed on a lot longer then before but it's still going out and won't stay so idk what else could be wrong.
Happy to assist Megan. What make and model stove do you have? Approx age?
Hi. My stove just won’t turn on. I push the button nothing happens
Happy to help. What stove make and model do you have? Have you checked the electrical outlet yet? Please send us as much info as possible; happy to assist. Thanks!
Can a high limit switch with continuity still be bad? My USSC 6041 is giving a high limit switch error, but my meter shows continuity.
Hey Josh, thanks for the message. The switch could be locked closed not having the ability to open. This could cause that error. You would need to heat the base of that limit switch past the degree that is stated (Probably 200 or 250 Fahrenheit). Once it reaches that temperature it should 'Open' /Break Continuity. The lower number that's on the limit switch will be the temperature at which it resets if it's an auto reset switch. Usually that number is 20 - 40 degrees. If it's a manual reset switch there will be a button in the center; push to reset. When the High Limit resets it should be in the closed position. If your going to test the switch I recommend safety first. You can put the switch in a vise away from any combustibles. A small pencil torch can work well to heat up the base. Use your multi-meter and see if it's opening and closing as it should. New switches aren't too much, happy to send a link if you need one. Keep us posted, happy to help.
My limit switch keeps tripping in low temps when stove is on minimum setting
Does that mean the switch is bad or something else?
Thank you
Thanks for contacting us. Based on that information I would say that is an indication that the limit switch is weak/failing. What stove make and model do you have and which limit switch is an issue? Happy to help.
Do all pellet stoves snap disc auto/manual reset themselves? or are there some that need replacing after they are triggered? Avalon Newport (Avanti PS) serial # 2301-126703
Thanks...I enjoy your videos.
Thanks for the message Danny. Yes, all snap discs in pellet stoves will either auto reset or have a manual reset after triggered. We have obviously seen snap discs go bad and stay stuck in the open or closed position. Which Snap Disc in your Avanti is giving you troubles? Here's a video on creating a jumper wire to troubleshoot the snap disc in question. th-cam.com/video/FDVkbsHS95U/w-d-xo.html
Happy to help, keep us posted. Thanks.
@@EarthSense Excuse my ignorance, but I'm not sure that any are giving me problems. What happened: I cleaned my pipes last year and when I tried to start it, it was smoking out various pipe seems. I resealed all the pipe and it wouldn't start. I thought it best to change the door seal and the vacuum switch. I did do the dollar bill seal test as well as the jumper for the switch. All was well, but no start. This is what what's happening: Turn the stove to manual, push start button, exhaust fan comes on, pellets drop, igniter glows but DOES NOT ignite pellets. I'm stumped. There are no technicians that will look at it, I'm kind of on my own. Any suggestions? Thanks for your videos.
@@dannyschacht4274 Thanks for the message Danny. Glad you got the pipes resealed; it's important to ensure carbon monoxide is not leaking into the home during operation. It is the combustion blower/exhaust fan that rushes air past the igniter during start-up. The super heated air is what is actually igniting the pellet fuel during start-up. Any air loss or air blockage will create ignition issues. I would suggest starting with the basics first.
1. Make sure the burnpot is seated properly and all holes are open.
2. Make sure the air intake coming into the burnpot is not blocked or restricted.
3. Make sure the exhaust is not blocked or restricted.
4. Do a voltage test on your exhaust fan - should be near line voltage during start-up.
5. Do an OHM reading on the igniter element. For the Avanti Igniter you should get a reading of 54.5 - 63.0 ohms for operable range.
6. Double check the front door and ash door seals all the way around.
Keep us posted, I'm confident we can get you back up and running again. Thanks!
Please do not use the term "from 250 to minus 40"
The lower number is certainly not "minus 40."
It is 40 Degrees F.
Yes, you are absolutely 100% right on this. I should have said '250 Dash 40' or something of that nature. Yes it is 250-40 Degrees F. Thank You for your help, and let us know of any other questions or comments. Appreciated!