Adam Savage Upgrades His Workbench LED Lights!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
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We can't believe it's been almost five years since Adam installed his Loc-Line articulated LED lamps for his shop workbench, but it's time to refurbish and upgrade the lights with a hard-wired power cable. Adam disassembles each lamp and solders in power directly from a wall wart power supply, and makes them much more reliable to operate!
Full list of materials for workbench lights: Full list of materials: amzn.to/3r0IEnC
LED Light: amzn.to/2VoBmNL
Power Supply: amzn.to/2uBijoG
3/4" Loc-Line: amzn.to/2Tf469f
Ball Socket MPT Connector: amzn.to/2wb4jCc
Ball Socket Flare Nozzle: amzn.to/2vaikAi
Solder Seal Wire Connectors: amzn.to/3FBYLzD
Dewalt Cordless Heat Gun: amzn.to/3z5SZnG
Adam's original workbench lights build: • Adam Savage's One Day ...
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Norman Chan
Music by Jinglepunks
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Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
#adamsavage #workshop #lighting
iFixit is offering 20% off your order of 2 items or more, for the rest of February, with code TESTED20. Head to iFixit.com/tested now; offer ends Feb 28!
Full list of materials for workbench lights: Full list of materials: amzn.to/3r0IEnC
annoyingly it doesnt work on the
ifixit uk store :(
Doesn't this modification remove the benefit of the barrel connector 's ability to spin freely in the unit? Seems Adam spins these about quite a bit and I'm wondering if he'll have an issue with over twisting on the wires and connections.
Note for europeans, discount code doesn't work in iFixit's european store
@@jeffcook5048 he doesnt spin them, he just bends the arms into shape a bit
Discount code doesn’t work for us in the UK which is disappointing
Adam, you may want to throw some hot glue or Silastic where the wire goes through the body to help keep it in place and prevent rubbing. Also to act as a Strain Relief.
I agree WRT the strain relief, tho I'd have simply put an inch or so of heatshrink sleeving over the wire that spot, possibly with the addition of a rubber grommet for the hole if I had one that size to hand
The ones I built have a 3D printed part to connect the light to the locline which I designed with a post for a cable tie for strain relief.
I was waiting for him to pull out a box of something and do just that, and was shocked when he didn't.
And or knot the wire.
@@wobblysauce That's an OK technique for eg mains flex, but I found that it didn't work as well for low-voltage thinner feeds. Double insulation (ie both outer & inner cores) works pretty well as a shock buffer, but thin, single-insulated stuff such as the pairs Adam's using don't like the tight bends the knot induces & start to fail over time, even if stranded core :(
I always found very impressive the fact that he managed to kill more than one xenomorph in order to use their tails as lamps, truly the remarkable feat of a true hunter
A chicken cannon does remarkable damage to xenomorph chitin as it turns out.
I think it's more that Adam merely helped show the yautja how to properly build and weather their trophy displays in exchange for some "building materials".
You can always reframe the, “unsexy” jobs as Housekeeping. And then perhaps just schedule periodic Housekeeping dates… (like the first day of the month or Monday mornings, or…). I find that a little reframing goes a looong way to tackling the tasks we all know need to get done but we might find uncreative, or unsexy… they’re investments towards Playful projects.
Remember, at least one was done for him when the fancy workbench was made for him a while back, so while he certainly pioneered the method he can't take _all_ of the credit.
@@Diremouse42 I love the imagination in this and the original comment! Y'all should clearly be writing the next Predator movie!
Proof that none of your shop infrastructure is ever 'finished'. Also I love the editing on these. 31:58 made me do a double take!
On permanent installation of electrical things that have barrel jacks i put a drop of super glue on it before I plug it in. Has worked well so far.
My identical light runs fine off a 12V 2A wall wart I found in my box full of wall warts. Much smaller than the ones you have. The cable out of the wall wart was also long enough to thread all the way through the locline, so no extra splices or connections required.
Thats what I plan to do as well. The listing for the light on amazon even has a wall wart suggested as a paired accessory by the same company that's a little cheaper than the one listed in the video description (assuming I don't have some lying around ).
For me, these kind of projects are quality of life projects which I find the most satisfying.
I like those heat shrink crimps. I’m planning some low voltage lighting works in my garden, and these would be ideal for an added layer of waterproofing in place of the usual compression crimps. Gonna order some up right now.
I got a couple same model Viltrox when you did the first video about these lights and I love'em. In fact, I am powering them from 1.5amp wallwarts. Because I use them for a wide variety of tasks, including photographing small, shiny objects, I also added a diffuser layer into the housing. My neighbors had a big LCD TV that'd gotten busted which I nabbed from the trash and harvested the lighting guts from, which is where the diffuser came from.
Adam, you should have plugged a light in with the old supply, but put your meter in series with one of the wires, and put it in current mode, and measured how much current it draws, then choose your adapter based on that. 12V and capable of however many amps you measured plus a small cushion.
Those lights actually inspired my own shop lights, and by shop I mean my computer desk in my room.
They used to be 2 of those ring light smartphone holders, I removed the smartphone holders and mounted the lights to a sturdy desk mount, and they have been serving me well ever since
Interesting problem, glad you fixed it.
I couldn't help but notice that when you pulled your headless lamp over it became its' own helping hand.
i bought that soldering iron hes using from when he first put that station together. that thing rocks! i also bought the ifixit pro tech toolkit. next to a grounding strap i would call these essential items for IT or just tech guys in general.
I was just going to ask which one that is, looks really nice, where would I get one? My cheap one I've had for 10 years needs to retire lol
Last night I watched the “new workbench” video and the “workbench mods” video and thought, “I wonder if that same workbench by Andrew is still what Adam uses. Then this video is going over the bath mods done again! Excellent! Thanks for answering my un-asked question!
I think Adam Savage is the only guy that can make me excited with a 40 minute video about LED lights.
If u watch at 0.5 speed ypu can watch him twice as long.
Since this is being put out there to the world, a short critique that I think would be really helpful to others who might copy it:
* the previous incarnations of these lights failed due to lack of strain relief. The video showed no strain relief being added to this iteration either which is likely how they will fail in the future. An extremely cheap and simple means of strain relief that will greatly increase the service interval on this is just putting a bit of heat shrink tubing on the wire where it exits the enclosure (to support the wire at the stress point) and then a zip tie closed tightly around the shrink tubing enclosed wire within the housing to keep it from pulling out of the housing. This means that there will be no strain on the relatively weak and brittle solder connections.
* In most of the videos where Adam wires things up he uses permanent soldered connections or occasionally some form of wire nut. In another video he rightly goes into the hazards of using a standard NEMA 120V plug/socket for this sort of thing and how you should never do so for anything other than 120V power but he never suggests a type of connector that would be useful. He would do extremely well to find a type of connector that will work well for the things he does and use that for most of his builds. In this manner he can easily move power supplies around or disconnect assemblies for repair/cleaning/upgrades/shipping/etc. Given the things that I see him work on, I think he would do very well to use JST SM connectors for most of the things he does. They are designed to be wire to wire ("inline") connectors. They're fairly small (smaller than most of the permanent connectors he uses) but not so small as to be difficult to work with without expensive tools. They support lots of different numbers of wires (anywhere from 1-10 or more) and this can help differentiate connections. They have a simple positive locking mechanism. And they're extremely cheap and easy to use (You can buy a box of 500+ connectors in an assortment of sizes for about $15 and a crimp tool for about $15). They're good for low voltage DC applications up to about 3 amps. In addition to buying raw connectors, it's also easy to buy them in "pigtails". These are widely used for power and data on LED strip lighting. There are better inexpensive connectors for things that might need more power but it's extremely rare that I've seen Adam go into this realm.
* Had he put a standardized connector on these, it would have made sense to wire up multiple lights onto a single power supply. If he were to split the output of the 8A power supply into multiple pigtails with his standardized connector he could put multiple lights on it _and_ he could have a 12V power supply for any other project on his bench that he might be working on at that moment.
Completely agree. It's also noteworthy that stuff like these low-voltage LEDs & similar electronics are quite sensitive to voltages, so using a 12.6V PSU may lower the working lifespan of a 12.0V light; amperage will only take as much power as needed, so anything above the minimum (or rated) original PSU amperage will work just fine (tho will perhaps be wasteful and/or even potentially dangerous if you go too OTT in a high-wear environment such as a workshop
Generally agree, though if sharing the PSU with the lights and a project, it is helpful (or necessary) to have each output separately current limited. Then if you short something on your project which blows the fuse or breaker, it doesn't take the lights out with it. Kind of like arranging circuits in a house so the lighting in a room is on a different circuit than the outlets, so if something does trip a breaker, you still have light to figure out what happened.
@@snafu2350 While that's absolutely true of inexpensive lights, I believe that the lights that he's using have a separate internal power supply since they're designed to work off of a 12V DC supply or a Sony "InfoLithium" battery with a nominal 7.2 volts (but ranges from 6V - 8.4V depending on the state of charge). Since they're designed to run off of battery packs, ideally they have a proper high efficiency, constant current power supply to drive the LEDs but barring that they will at least have a simple buck converter that can provide a precise voltage output with a wide voltage input range.
@@xuthnet Tks for this; v useful :)
@@strehlow I agree that it's often worth isolating the different connections. And for certain things I absolutely have a fuse block between my power source and my many outputs (with a separate, properly sized fuse for each output). This is far more important when you have a larger battery providing power (and I've personally seen fires when people were running lights off of a central battery without fuses). But in this case, this type of power supply generally already has overload and short circuit protection that will reset as soon as it is no longer overloaded and the small uses that this gets put to are not likely to be problematic. It would be possible to hurt the lights but it's not very likely assuming you weren't combining other power supplies.
I solved this issue by getting two batteries - it solved lugging around the extra power adaptor too.
I don't think straight hardwired is your best option here. If you use it enough to wobble out the barrel connector before, you'll probably adjust enough to break wire now. Maybe should've went with a stronger plug in type connector.
use dthose little solder sleeves all the time in avionics maintenance. We called them bottle rockets, because the ones we got had a ground for shielded cable. Great little tools to have on-hand.
I actually use the peak design bag 20L Everyday as a partial camera bag. But mostly with my R6 + 1 lens on the bottom shelf and that is my everyday carry. Everything else is for other stuff and Dell XPS15 Laptop. For everyday sruff, it performs well. It falls short for multiple lenses and stuff.
I like when Adam panics over the zebra strips display. I've definitely done that before
I hate that blue spudger. Its too short to comfortably hold and it has sharp edges so if you are prying apart a difficult part its cutting into the soft part of your palm.
I'm actually in the process of updating my lighting set-up. Would love to integrate some LED panels like this.
9:10 Truth and Beauty lol sounds like a Baroness song title.
@10:33 Adam tried to take his glasses off but he wasn’t wearing them lol
Adam needs an iFixit Magnetic Project Mat (item # Item # IF145-167-4). I use mine on almost every electronics project. The dry erase marker allows you to keep and track parts and screws by step.
24:44 Did Adam remove a black wire and replace it with a red wire? He mentioned earlier they might be reversed but I don't remember confirmation. Maybe they're AC but then why would they be color coded?
While you had things apart, the cabling laid out and the multimeter out it would have been easy to measure the current draw of lamp 🤔 Possibly you might have heard the mental shouting at the TH-cam screen. 😁
Me2 😁
I was doing much the same thing. Alternately Adam would do well to have one of the many very cheap benchtop power supplies for working with his devices ($40 - $100 online depending on the details). They will output whatever voltage you want, can be current limited so that if you accidentally short circuit something it will do minimal harm to what you're working on (eg set the max current to maybe 0.5A when doing the initial smoke test and you'll instantly know if there's a problem but it will generally take several seconds before a short causes something to fail), and all the while you'll know exactly how much current you're drawing so you can use an appropriate battery pack/power supply for the final power source.
Hard to imagine anything built in the last 5 years that would survive being opened, much less being fooled around with like this. The overall build quality and fault tolerance of anything these days from kid’s toys to $1500 TVs is so shoddy they break if you just look at them sideways. I think he probably killed at least one of these and just swapped it out off camera :)
12 volts at 8.5 amps is 100 watts. Just one of those supplies can power like 10 of those lights.
I was wondering the same. I plan to give it a try with a single power supply when I make mine.
Why didn't you just solder the wires to the battery contacts? and find out what the battery output power requirements are?
this! I had to stop watching to shout this at the screen. those external contacts are for a battery already there to be soldered onto
Totally makes sense that the light videos are one of the most popular videos, EVERY maker needs good light
They make a power adapter supply for NPF-970 batteries. I would have gone that route vs. get inside those.
Hey Adam... I am not able to make that white piece or do the cutting and drilling and all that for these lights, is there another option that I can buy that would be easier to attach and run the cord out the bottom to an outlet? I want to use this set up to film videos with and I intend to attach that magnet to my fridge. Can you help please? Thanks:}
BOP
I don't think I would have idsmantled them, I probably would have soldered to the battery connectors if it's a 12v battery - perhaps even designed up a fake battery instead of soldering (amen 3d printer) that has a cable coming out the back
Do you a TH-cam video on how to store different sizes C clamps?
What do you use to illuminate your project when your project is the lights you use to illuminate your projects?
10:33, taking off the non-existent glasses :D
22:53 I love it when Adam counts like the owl who determines how many licks to get to the center of a Tootsie Pop.
While this was certainly a groovy project (I definitely enjoyed all of the flexi-lamp videos and made one myself because of the original), I personally prefer to keep mine vanilla because not only does it stay modular it also makes it easier to replace individual pieces once it finally gives up the ghost.
Where can we get those flexible arms the lights are mounted on. I have a light weight mic and want those for a mount please send a link to buy from
I see those screws all over the table and and I just wonder why he doesn't use a magnetic parts holder :)
Adam thank you - you inspire me sir.
Also...friggin love those solder/heat shrink wire to wire connectors. Just ordered a bunch. Had never seen them before and I'll be using them all the time on my dodgy little home electronics diy jobs!
A lot of those lights take a 7.2 volt li-on battery. You did tap the battery power connections so that might be over driving the micro chips. Just something to check.
Adam, it may have been easier to obtain a copy of dead batteries, remove the cells, and then soldered the power supply to those internal battery connections.
Then you would not have needed to disassemble the lighting instrument, and could have just powered it from the newly created battery replacement assembly.
As long as you kept the voltages the same as what the display is expecting from the batteries, the battery management circuits wouldn't be a problem, and everything should work as expected. It's a shame the LCD panels got damaged, those components are very fragile, especially when manufactured to a low price point.
Cheers, and thank you for your content, I am a long time viewer.
If you're going this route it is often far better to use premade "battery dummies" than to try and tear apart an old battery to make one. In my experience trying to do exactly what you suggested in the past, the terminals were not easily separated from the cells and in some cases the terminals were vital to the integrity of the cells (and I'll never publicly recommend tearing apart a lithium ion cell which can lead to nearly unquenchable fires). For these lights, which use sony infolithium battery packs, there is a wide ecosystem of clones available including battery dummies for cheap on ebay and the like. For other types of battery pack dummies that I couldn't cheaply find online, I found the easiest thing to do was to either mill the appropriate shape out of a piece of plastic or 3d print one and then add terminals to it (copper foil tape works well for low current devices or nickle strips that are used for spot welding onto batteries to build up battery packs work well as a general solution).
I'm surprised to see Adam not using little magnetic cups to hold those small screws! I love mine when working with small stuff
Yeah, if it was me, and i didn't use magnetic dishes, half the video would be me looking around on the floor for screws.
When it is a new light and cable. Hot glue the connection and hot glue a anchor point (s) for the cable. No dust ,moisture, stress and most importantly zero moving.
Great lights but the cracking sound they make when you adjust them is TERRIBLE!
What clamp is pictured at the end of the mount?
I swear, I wouldn't be the tinkerer I am today had it not been for iFixit's microbit set. Bought my first set over 10 years ago and I've gone through 3 of them, because my students kept borrowing it.
I have a Viltrox light like this, and within a week of getting it I wired a 2x 18650 cell holder to the battery terminals. Wiring straight to those terminals is indeed the fastest way of going about it, if you don't care too much about looks.
The colour of the wire rarely matters, nor is representative of its function! :)
I'm so tired of those barrel connectors. Maybe I've just been unlucky, but I've ordered so many male and female barrel connectors on leads from china sites, and the connections are often intermittent. They're all usually labeled as 2.1mm so should be compatible, but I find I have to hunt through my collection to find matching pairs that don't glitch. Have largely given up on all of them and just use JSTs, XT30, XT60 etc for different currents and voltages.
Barrel connectors are almost universally terrible and there are lots of "standards" that are visually extremely similar. Another option in place of the XT30/XT60s are Anderson Powerpole connectors. I use all of the above but I'm slowly moving to standardize on powerpoles in the places where I used to use XT30/XT60/MT60 connectors. I'll still likely continue to use XT90 connectors because I can get those cheaply with a spark suppression resistor built in (which you absolutely want for anything over 24V) and they have always been designed with strain relief.
You're gonna need that wire you tossed tomorrow.😜😁
As always, an entertaining and educational video.
Now, if I may, a tip and a story.
First the tip, keep a bit of wax ring for a toilet nearby. It is just the perfect bit of stickiness to dab onto the tip of a screwdriver to hold the screw while you manipulate it one handed and in rank defiance of gravity.
Second, the story. Inspired by your build of these led lights, I set out to build my own. I used some goosenecks from some old Powermatic lights (my dad worked for Powermatic in the 60's, I have a box full of them) to create the same sort of task lighting as you did with small square LED fixtures. However, I found that my aging eyes didn't get along well with the shadows that my hands, head, and various shop tools caused. So, I got an 8" LED ring light from Amazon and affixed it similarly to a gooseneck. Now I have a light that I can get very close to my work and see what I am doing through the ring. The light is between my face and where it needs to be so it doesn't shine back into my eyes. Seriously, you need one of these.
chores are not usuuuaasly fun. thank you for leading me to ifixxit
Now if you can make them silent it would be great..............
I think that I would have put a drop of hot glue around the wires where they go thru the hole you drilled.
As soon as I saw that white frame poke out underneath the PCB I thought to myself "welp, we're about to have display issues". I'm a little surprised Adam hasn't come across Zebra Strips before though. Just goes to show we never stop learning, thankfully, would get pretty boring otherwise :)
Yea, I just assumed it was a zebra stripe display.
With the compression provided by housing.
Seeing as I only move my light once every six months (I use it everyday over my leather working area) I do not see the need at this point in time to hard wire them. Besides, as Dirty Harry once said, 'A man has to know his limitations'. I can get almost anything apart. But I have a 50/50 chance of getting it back together and working. Why tempt fate when I don't need to. BTW, BEST PROJECT EVER! Some guys in England made the same lamp, gave you every credit under the sun, but used three woven wires of aluminum inside the Locline. They talk funny.
No. I would have used the wire he cut off from the power supply because it has two layers of protection. Now he has only one layer of insulation that can wear.
Props to the editor for swapping the sneeze audio with the continuity tester audio, nice touch
I noticed it too. Props to the editor!
Oh Adam... those are power bricks, not wall worts. Wall worts hang on the outlets directly. :)
Argh... I placed a large iFixit order earlier this week. Could have used that coupon code then.
You didn't see me this time so you will definitely not see me next time! (there's no camera in my TV and I will keep it that way).
Job nicely done Mr. Savage! No more blinky blinky on the workbench! :)
First step to unplug the light lol
After you put the case back together did you leave the power brick plugged in? I’ve paused and wincing like crazy every time your elbow/watch almost touches it. Don’t die Adam! 😂
I thought the more elegant solution would be to reuse the battery terminals.
you should tin all your connections for soldering, so in using the seal and solder connectors it's doing a disservice to the termination of the joint "In My Opinion", and takes nearly as long as old school soldering and heat shrink tubing. Maybe run a kill-a-watt device between your power supply and service to test the actual current draw required before switching to a smaller form factor power supply/wall wort.
I saw the lights flickering a few videos back, and thought to myself "Oh this is gonna be a ODB video sometime soon I can feel it" :D
these are actually some of my fav kind of builds on the channel lol
Do you have an old Flat screen LCD type TV that fell over and damaged the LCD screen?? If you do, you can turn it into a fantastic overhead bench lite... Remove the LCD screen and protective film and you have a bright even colored wide panel of white light that gives very little shadow effect. Hang it over your work bench and use the remote to power it on/off
Can you post the Amazon link to the wall wart power supply you used in this modification?
I would still really like to see Joey Famelli do a video discussing using this sort of homemade light for videography. We need more of that sort of thing, rather than him showing off cutting edge cool lights.
Im unreasonably hyped for this. Loved the first one
If I were to build this (I use the light with a small tripod), I would prefer a 1/4” screw camera mount on top, so anything - light, camera, phone, etc. - could be attached. Not concerned about running a power cord - I use a NP-970 battery for the light. Maybe a universal clamp solution at the bottom too.
Hm, surprised that Adam doesn't know about contact strips. Must be rare in US.
My thought was to 3D print a bracket to slide into the battery slot and connect wall power to that. No need to open the unit.
Has Adam ever done a crossover with Electroboom? Imagine the awesomeness.
My heart breaks when I hear you begin mumbling. I just know that part of the job. (Or: "Did I just destroy this?")
Am I the only old EE that cringes whenever Adam works with anything electric and/or electronic? I always want to jet to SF and burst through the shop doors and yell "SLOWLY PUT DOWN MULTIMETER AND BACK AWAY!". And when he reaches for a soldering iron its "No.. No... No... NO!". It's the only time I watch his videos where my wife thinks I'm watching football because I'm yelling at the screen. 😂😂😂
Adam, thanks for this one day build. It addresses one of my concerns with the original design; exposes a connector to the rigors of working with these lamps. I did do some research after the session an found out that they do make a wired battery substitute for this type of lamp that snaps into the battery holder on the back of the light. My preference will be to wire that into the arm so in the event I have to replace the light assembly I would not need to rewire a nee lamp.
Accidents do happen and replacing a lamp seems like something that would be likely.
Thanks, I too was thinking about this issue and just never thought of doing it another way
The battery for the lamp is a NP-Fxxx (550,750, etc) the wired battery “dummy” is a GyroVu High Power (4.5A) D-Tap to Dummy Battery Straight Adapter Cable to Replace NP-F550
Available from online vendors.
Have a great day!!
could just print the battery adaptor
@@djh4life2100 hi, the battery’s connection to the lamp is done by two female cylinder tubes. Mating with the two pins in the lamp’s battery connection. Finding the right size tubular connectors and incorporating them into the print could be problematic. I purchased a wired battery substitute for the lamp. It is just OK. It will work but the battery locking clip in the lamp is not the best, so it is not as robust as Adam’s hard wiring solution.
I don't know where Adam got those solder-sleeves, but I highly recommend getting it from Raychem, instead of the cheap chinese ones. They come with flux in the solder, you get full wire penetration. CWT-9001 are my favorite.
If it was me, I'd have modified a "standard" battery, as that's usually what those battery terminals on the back are for, assuming of course that that's possible, because yeah, hardwiring is cool, but it's not really needed, and that battery mount is probably the most universal thing, whereas hardwiring means you would have to resolder after every light goes kaput, vs just releasing the quick connect battery pack and replacing the light...
I'm not saying, of course, that Adam's way won't work, just that I prefer to have more interchangeability...
You can also take a battery pack conversion kit if such a thing exists, of course, as well, which would be basically the wires and battery terminals, minus the rest of the battery...
One question... Adam, what do you think of your cordless heat gun?
The shirt in the iFixit segment (th-cam.com/video/3lpcdadoPmM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=n0SYvR4IVCvLmxC-&t=1248) is pretty cool with the machined-looking buttons. But I can't make out the brand - looks like "CX" to me, but that turns up nothing. Maybe the internet knows?
I love those heat shrink solder connectors. I've used them on my motorcycle (wiring in a USB port and heated grips) and my car (wiring power for a backup camera I installed).
I love the hand model in the background flipping the bird! LOL. My daughter did the same to my Infinity gauntlets and it took me two months to notice them, being they are on the top of a bookshelf like Adam”s are!! I wonder if someone did the same to him and he hasn’t noticed yet!!!!
Did this build for my desk over a year ago and haven't had any issue... although mine is significantly more static.
And I immediately cringed and yelled "DON'T" at my screen when he cut off the power supply from the wire that's inside the stem.
btw the discount code doesn't work in Europe (:
Why not just solder a compatible barrel plug on the end of your gooseneck for the LCD, instead of wiring it directly inside? Then it's easily swappable, and it still looks clean.
Whenever I determine the polarity of otherwise unmarked wires, I tie a small half-hitch knot in the positive one ... from many angles, the knot resembles a small + sign. No need for tape or paint ... and it won't rub off!
Can Adam or tested folks point us to the soldering clamp/pliers Adam has on display on his soldering stand? I’ve been trying to find pin point spring-loaded clamps on Amazon since the solder station and first light build to no avail. Any names, terms or sources you can point me to are greatly appreciated!!
I feel a sponsored ad for a tool that is useful to hobbyists is fairly disingenuous knowing Adam has a well stocked shop. That said, I still watched the whole damn thing because seeing him work is cathartic and I appreciate the craftsmanship given the tools used.
It probably took forever to get to because they worked “fine” or “good enough”. I also struggle with improving things that do the job sufficiently
I keep thinking how neat those lights would be using a chiropractic spine assembly....like modeled from a snake's.
It bothered me to the point of thinking to give Adam advice to use a heat gun for heat shrink instead of a torch or open flame. Since he got that Dewalt cordless heat gun I no longer have to fight my need to give unsolicited advice. Anyone who reads this and still uses an open flame - get yourself a low power or adjustable power heat gun.
in my opinion looking at how you tore into your lights makes me think 🤔 instead of replacing your i-products why not not have an easy push shut/lock on your phones tablets so when your battery gets to five percent life push springs open install a new battery to recycle ♻️ put in a fresh keep on trucking. verses spending a grand or more when i think it’s not necessary if the software can be updated to a point then go up grade.
The hard thing is --- Well, they function, albeit mostly. So, it is often easier to 'kick the can down the road' and tolerate the occasional 'gotta smack the side once in a while'...
Am I not seeing pins in the battery bay? I get that it's a sponsored video for ifixit but that really looks like a battery slot in the back and two perfectly exposed contacts.