So good seeing someone actually taking time to oil up the pats on assembly. You have NO idea how many times I've had to pull engines apart because people I used to work with didn't lubricate parts when rebuilding.
Such a simple engine I love it. I'm gonna start a project on a 2002 DID Pajero runs like a dream not a puff of smoke, radiator is playing up could be rad itself, pump or thermo. But either way I'm gonna replace all those and if it has any other issues the whole engine is gonna get a tear down rebuild
One of the most amazing video rebuild i saw! I also have the same engine in a Triton, That engine is a beast! Mine has 160k km odometer. Thanks for this man! Respect all the way from Philippines!
Ricky Robles Thanks man! It really is a beast! I will post another rebuild in a few months, althougt i do engine rebuilds very often i dont have the time to do this video everytime, next engine in video will be a VG30DETT
I have a 2016 model NX Pajero. Basic engine layout doesn't seem to have changed much in 16 years. I believe the late model engines have an appreciable boost to performance though. Seem to be fairly bullet proof. Hope I can get a million K's out of it someday.
Great work. I have the same engine in my Pajero. However, have an injection pump issue. Have 48 GE error. Would appreciate if you could shed some insight on how to sort it out.
Muito bom o vídeo, parabéns desde já. O seus conhecimentos eram muito bem vindos ao grupo do Facebook Mitsubishi pajero 3.2did Portugal. Apareça por lá. Cumprimentos
hey bro, do you have a pictures of wiring from fusebox and injection pump? we recently purchase a pajero 3rd gen and the wiring is pretty messed up and we are havinga hard time to track all the wirings from the fusebox and fuel injection and also in ecu. btw nice video bro keep up the good work
I'm a beginner at this and would love to do it myself is there anyway yu could help cause it's the same engine I want to rebuild but can't find nothing on TH-cam on how to do it thanks man great vid by the way🔥🔥🔥
Olá, André. Sou do Brasil, da cidade de Curitiba, Estado do Paraná. Tenho um Pajero Full, 3 D, carroceria monobloco, motor 3-2 DI-D, com 200 CV, ano de fabricação 2012. Atualmente o veículo está com 81 MKM e o considero um excelente veículo, tanto em rodovia como fora-de-estrada. Abasteço o veículo com diesel S-10 e recentemente o sensor do filtro de combustível acusou água e impurezas. Penso que é devido a má qualidade dos combustíveis usados em viagens e também porque o veículo não é usado diariamente, portanto é passível a condensação de água no reservatório. Além do mais, as 10 ppm de S-Enxofre do diesel não tem poder biocida para impedir a proliferação de micro-organismos decompositores do diesel. Recentemente, foi feita uma limpeza no tanque e constatado que havia bastante água e sujeira. Após, aproveitando a oportunidade, instalei um filtro modelo Racor (WK 10-40 Mann Filter) logo após a saída do tanque e antes do sistema de filtragem original. O filtro adicional ficou atrás do filtro de ar, com um cabeçote de filtro do Merdedes-Benz Accelo preso na parede corta -fogo. Isso facilitou muito a verificação de quaisquer contaminantes que o combustível contenha, antes de atingir o sistema original do filtro que foi mantido integralmente. A dúvida que tenho é se o fato de haver aumentado 2 metros de tubo e a resistência da passagem do combustível(que é pequena, considerando que o WK 10-40 atende um motor de consumo muito maior)não irá sobrecarregar a bomba de baixa pressão que alimenta a bomba de alta pressão que leva ao Common Rail. Já usei aproximadamente 50 litros de combustível, rodando aproximadamente 500 Km e o motor está se comportando perfeitamente, tanto nas retomadas, quanta na marcha lenta e em velocidades superiores a 150 KM/H. Antecipadamente agradeço a atenção e a eventual pergunta ao meu questionamento.
Boas, é um carro muito bom, super fiável, apesar de a estrutura ser chassis monobloco ao contrario do pajero antigo que ainda era de chassi longarina, mesmo assim com sistema 4wd super select ii porta-se muito bem fora da estrada, tem bloqueio no diferencial central e no eixo traseiro. Na estrada é muito superior ao pajero antigo, porta-se muito bem, rapidamente chega aos 180, é super seguro e comfortavél, o interior é muito bonito, os consumos variam entre os 8 e os 12 depende do tipo de caixa.
Kevin Neaves , if I had the parts all together, it would be work for one day, but the silicone joints should be quite dry before there was contact with oil, so it slows down the process a bit, and original mitsubishi parts sometimes are hard to get!
Definitely! Some parts I've waited a little over a month for. I'm hoping to not have to do this any time soon but a very interesting video to watch. I have the common rail 4m41 so it's a little different. What caused your car to lose its water? Thanks for uploading!
Kevin Neaves , radiator leak and the expansion tank ruber pipe was cloged... simple things can cause big problems, also i want to say that in this video there are a mistaque that SHOULD not be followed, oil behind the main bearings and rod bearings, that can lead to a smaller gap and in some cases spun bearings on first start. surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned and degreased! Than a lot of oil or assembly lube if the engine will not run soon on front bearing surfaces!
André Martins good to hear that. Cuz these engines are bulletproof, a friend of mine has one 3.2 did at 780.000 km (approx half a million mile) without built up, only some minor electronic parts replaced.
Yes thats true, very relaiable engine and car! But there are no miracles when you run out of water on the highway during a very long period of time, and also with a temperature gauge with a very strange behavior, also does not help.
André Martins unless owners do not fail, these engines are immortal. Here in my region, mitsubishi still use this engine on light-mid weight commercial trucks, turning couple of million miles without major issues.
I am in Canada and I have an exact engine that it was brought from Japan, I overheated it while pushing it hard on a mountain highway, lost/boiled some coolant, then later I replaced radiator (maybe was partially clogged), water pump, thermostat, new coolant, but was still overheating. The mechanic said that I had a crack in the engine block. I did some troubleshooting I and found the temp gauge had a bad soldering joint on the instruments computer board. Now the engine is happy and I need to find a mechanic who knows these engines just in case I have to rebuild it. I cannot find anyone here doing the job by the service manual instructions and torque the bolts properly, maybe I am the only 4m41 engine owner in the whole province. lots of mechanics here are just replacing parts without understanding the principles of the system they work on. They are asking the customer to "replace this and see what happens"
Boa tarde André , tenho um 3,2 did egual e gostaria de saber qual e o preço de reparação tendo em conta que tenho cilindro nr .3 e 4 com baixa compressão. Obrigado . o meu e-mail qplusdental@gmail.com
soy mecánico y verdaderamente no sirve para nada seria importante primero q hables explicando y segundo ver detalles de posicionamientos de piezas no velocidad de ensamble !!!
Not sure what everyone's congratulating the video for you can't see anything all you see is a bloke moving at twice or three times the speed and putting an engine together you can't see Jack it's a terrible video there's no point in it can't see what he is doing ridiculous waste of time
@@andremartins6402 not sure why you sending a smiley face 😁if you're going to upload a video at least make it watchable I was trying to enjoy your video but there was no point to it because the camera was too far away and you at least doubled the speed of the video from normal speed what was the point in the video just to watch you dancing around the workshop honest criticism mate wasn't trying to rag on you I'm an Aussie I love watching good videos especially when its to do with engines just trying to make a point
Your opinion make me laught, i didnt say that your opinion was wrong, it was the firts time i catpture something like this, so yeah i know it's not perfect...
Hi, very simple, in the block, first engine in the top dead center, align all marks on the gears, on the head align the camshaft marks. then care must be taken to install the chain tensioner, never turn the motor in the opposite direction, if you do this you will damage the tensioner. When installing the injection pump, the pump gear has a spring disc in the front that has to be pulled back and tightened with a blolt to be able to install the pump correctly, it must be a bolt with a Allen head, then it is necessary to align the gear of the pump with the body of the pump, however due to the design of the gears the marking will leave a tooth out when the pump is in the final position, which is normal, to complete, it is necessary to unscrew one blolt that is in the front aluminum cover, in order to remove the allen bolt that was initially installed to secure the front disk of the pump gear, if the bolt does not come out the pump is not in this correct position. I strongly recommend downloading the service manual for the 4m41 engine, the manual has all the steps you have to follow!
So good seeing someone actually taking time to oil up the pats on assembly. You have NO idea how many times I've had to pull engines apart because people I used to work with didn't lubricate parts when rebuilding.
Such a simple engine I love it. I'm gonna start a project on a 2002 DID Pajero runs like a dream not a puff of smoke, radiator is playing up could be rad itself, pump or thermo. But either way I'm gonna replace all those and if it has any other issues the whole engine is gonna get a tear down rebuild
One of the most amazing video rebuild i saw! I also have the same engine in a Triton, That engine is a beast! Mine has 160k km odometer. Thanks for this man! Respect all the way from Philippines!
Ricky Robles Thanks man! It really is a beast! I will post another rebuild in a few months, althougt i do engine rebuilds very often i dont have the time to do this video everytime, next engine in video will be a VG30DETT
Ricky Robles hindi pa ba nagluluko yung injection pump nya.
My 07 triton is at 250k , I run with the egr off do I don't have the soot issue
Buen trabajo!! Yo me tengo que poner mi mi 4m41 del Mitsubishi montero V60 3.2 DID vaya currada
I have a 2016 model NX Pajero. Basic engine layout doesn't seem to have changed much in 16 years. I believe the late model engines have an appreciable boost to performance though. Seem to be fairly bullet proof. Hope I can get a million K's out of it someday.
Can you help me with crankshaft, i dont know , how much nm need to fit bolt
Great work. I have the same engine in my Pajero. However, have an injection pump issue. Have 48 GE error. Would appreciate if you could shed some insight on how to sort it out.
Muito bom o vídeo, parabéns desde já. O seus conhecimentos eram muito bem vindos ao grupo do Facebook Mitsubishi pajero 3.2did Portugal. Apareça por lá. Cumprimentos
Hi where is the crankshaft shaft sensor location
Thanks 4 video
Great job
Wondering if a 4m41 engine from a 2006+ pajero can work in a 2000 model body?
super travail j'ai un moteur 3.2 a faire quand tu veux
Nice job mate, well done!
how did you find the timing mark for the injection pump? i cant find the mark on the gear.
Hi, do you have social profile that i want to ask something about 3.2 did injection bommb. Thanks
cant you do it any faster ??
Cool video! But how did you get the engine in and attached. Story is missing importaint pices!
Really nice job.
Thanks ;)
Привет друг. Ты можешь подсказать все номера запчастей которые использовал.
Поршня, прокладки, вкладыши.
Which year is this pajero/engine?
hey bro, do you have a pictures of wiring from fusebox and injection pump? we recently purchase a pajero 3rd gen and the wiring is pretty messed up and we are havinga hard time to track all the wirings from the fusebox and fuel injection and also in ecu. btw nice video bro keep up the good work
I'm a beginner at this and would love to do it myself is there anyway yu could help cause it's the same engine I want to rebuild but can't find nothing on TH-cam on how to do it thanks man great vid by the way🔥🔥🔥
Awesome well done!!!
good morning sir youdont have to rush take care of tha dog
What year model is your Mitsubishi
Nice
niiice !! tell me mi amigo ,how was it getting the timing, both for the block parts and the injection pump ? I'm stuck at that part mate .
All gears have marks. Mate all marks and the engine runs fine
Hello I have questions, how can I contact you!, I have the same car and I’m having injection problems 😭
Nice work ..... hate silicone 😡
Probably the only time you used a 12mm that often 🙃
Where is the engine number (4m41) ?
Olá, André. Sou do Brasil, da cidade de Curitiba, Estado do Paraná. Tenho um Pajero Full, 3 D, carroceria monobloco, motor 3-2 DI-D, com 200 CV, ano de fabricação 2012. Atualmente o veículo está com 81 MKM e o considero um excelente veículo, tanto em rodovia como fora-de-estrada. Abasteço o veículo com diesel S-10 e recentemente o sensor do filtro de combustível acusou água e impurezas. Penso que é devido a má qualidade dos combustíveis usados em viagens e também porque o veículo não é usado diariamente, portanto é passível a condensação de água no reservatório. Além do mais, as 10 ppm de S-Enxofre do diesel não tem poder biocida para impedir a proliferação de micro-organismos decompositores do diesel. Recentemente, foi feita uma limpeza no tanque e constatado que havia bastante água e sujeira. Após, aproveitando a oportunidade, instalei um filtro modelo Racor (WK 10-40 Mann Filter) logo após a saída do tanque e antes do sistema de filtragem original. O filtro adicional ficou atrás do filtro de ar, com um cabeçote de filtro do Merdedes-Benz Accelo preso na parede corta -fogo. Isso facilitou muito a verificação de quaisquer contaminantes que o combustível contenha, antes de atingir o sistema original do filtro que foi mantido integralmente. A dúvida que tenho é se o fato de haver aumentado 2 metros de tubo e a resistência da passagem do combustível(que é pequena, considerando que o WK 10-40 atende um motor de consumo muito maior)não irá sobrecarregar a bomba de baixa pressão que alimenta a bomba de alta pressão que leva ao Common Rail. Já usei aproximadamente 50 litros de combustível, rodando aproximadamente 500 Km e o motor está se comportando perfeitamente, tanto nas retomadas, quanta na marcha lenta e em velocidades superiores a 150 KM/H. Antecipadamente agradeço a atenção e a eventual pergunta ao meu questionamento.
Boas Julio! Dá uma vista de olhos neste video (th-cam.com/video/JYb4qzvvDZo/w-d-xo.html).
Abraço
Olá, eu estou a procura de uma pajero, é um bom carro? vale a pena? tbm moro em portugal
Boas, é um carro muito bom, super fiável, apesar de a estrutura ser chassis monobloco ao contrario do pajero antigo que ainda era de chassi longarina, mesmo assim com sistema 4wd super select ii porta-se muito bem fora da estrada, tem bloqueio no diferencial central e no eixo traseiro. Na estrada é muito superior ao pajero antigo, porta-se muito bem, rapidamente chega aos 180, é super seguro e comfortavél, o interior é muito bonito, os consumos variam entre os 8 e os 12 depende do tipo de caixa.
Nice work! How long did this rebuild take you?
Kevin Neaves , if I had the parts all together, it would be work for one day, but the silicone joints should be quite dry before there was contact with oil, so it slows down the process a bit, and original mitsubishi parts sometimes are hard to get!
Definitely! Some parts I've waited a little over a month for. I'm hoping to not have to do this any time soon but a very interesting video to watch. I have the common rail 4m41 so it's a little different. What caused your car to lose its water? Thanks for uploading!
Kevin Neaves , radiator leak and the expansion tank ruber pipe was cloged... simple things can cause big problems, also i want to say that in this video there are a mistaque that SHOULD not be followed, oil behind the main bearings and rod bearings, that can lead to a smaller gap and in some cases spun bearings on first start. surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned and degreased! Than a lot of oil or assembly lube if the engine will not run soon on front bearing surfaces!
What was the mileage before build up ?
About 180000 / 190000 miles, engine overheat due to lack of water and end up with a melted piston, also there was some signs of injection problems.
André Martins good to hear that. Cuz these engines are bulletproof, a friend of mine has one 3.2 did at 780.000 km (approx half a million mile) without built up, only some minor electronic parts replaced.
Yes thats true, very relaiable engine and car! But there are no miracles when you run out of water on the highway during a very long period of time, and also with a temperature gauge with a very strange behavior, also does not help.
André Martins unless owners do not fail, these engines are immortal. Here in my region, mitsubishi still use this engine on light-mid weight commercial trucks, turning couple of million miles without major issues.
I am in Canada and I have an exact engine that it was brought from Japan, I overheated it while pushing it hard on a mountain highway, lost/boiled some coolant, then later I replaced radiator (maybe was partially clogged), water pump, thermostat, new coolant, but was still overheating. The mechanic said that I had a crack in the engine block. I did some troubleshooting I and found the temp gauge had a bad soldering joint on the instruments computer board. Now the engine is happy and I need to find a mechanic who knows these engines just in case I have to rebuild it. I cannot find anyone here doing the job by the service manual instructions and torque the bolts properly, maybe I am the only 4m41 engine owner in the whole province. lots of mechanics here are just replacing parts without understanding the principles of the system they work on. They are asking the customer to "replace this and see what happens"
Esse motor e muito bom
Boa tarde André , tenho um 3,2 did egual e gostaria de saber qual e o preço de reparação tendo em conta que tenho cilindro nr .3 e 4 com baixa compressão. Obrigado . o meu e-mail qplusdental@gmail.com
soy mecánico y verdaderamente no sirve para nada seria importante primero q hables explicando y segundo ver detalles de posicionamientos de piezas no velocidad de ensamble !!!
Bueno... TH-cam es para compartir todo tipo de videos. No "Videos para reconstruir motores"
Not sure what everyone's congratulating the video for you can't see anything all you see is a bloke moving at twice or three times the speed and putting an engine together you can't see Jack it's a terrible video there's no point in it can't see what he is doing ridiculous waste of time
😂
@@andremartins6402 not sure why you sending a smiley face 😁if you're going to upload a video at least make it watchable I was trying to enjoy your video but there was no point to it because the camera was too far away and you at least doubled the speed of the video from normal speed what was the point in the video just to watch you dancing around the workshop honest criticism mate wasn't trying to rag on you I'm an Aussie I love watching good videos especially when its to do with engines just trying to make a point
Your opinion make me laught, i didnt say that your opinion was wrong, it was the firts time i catpture something like this, so yeah i know it's not perfect...
@@andremartins6402 all good mate look forward for the next one little bit closer not too much dancing haha take care cheers 4 now
niiice !! tell me mi amigo ,how was it getting the timing, both for the block parts and the injection pump ? I'm stuck at that part mate .
Hi, very simple, in the block, first engine in the top dead center, align all marks on the gears, on the head align the camshaft marks. then care must be taken to install the chain tensioner, never turn the motor in the opposite direction, if you do this you will damage the tensioner. When installing the injection pump, the pump gear has a spring disc in the front that has to be pulled back and tightened with a blolt to be able to install the pump correctly, it must be a bolt with a Allen head, then it is necessary to align the gear of the pump with the body of the pump, however due to the design of the gears the marking will leave a tooth out when the pump is in the final position, which is normal, to complete, it is necessary to unscrew one blolt that is in the front aluminum cover, in order to remove the allen bolt that was initially installed to secure the front disk of the pump gear, if the bolt does not come out the pump is not in this correct position.
I strongly recommend downloading the service manual for the 4m41 engine, the manual has all the steps you have to follow!
niiice !! tell me mi amigo ,how was it getting the timing, both for the block parts and the injection pump ? I'm stuck at that part mate .