OCD has many levels . My level of OCD far advanced . i use 2 cups of water to an entire bike wash and finish with wax spray polish. 2 years ago , I discovered a chain lubricant that leaves absolutely pristine and no splatter on rear triangle or wheel .
Great video Reginald. I only ride my bike on sunny days avoid mud, snow ,road salt and rain. I wipe down any dirt on the frame after each ride with a soapy rag. Chain and drivetrain cleaned weekly and lubed. Polished weekly with wax. This steel bike is the last one I purchase so making it look good is important to me. Looking forward to your next video,. All the best!
the brush from a dust pan and brush is my favorite, the long bristles and handle make them really good for big cassettes and getting in behind derailleurs and chainrings
As a mountain biker living in a small community without any privacy to clean my bike after every dirty Sunday trail ride ,bike wash is a pain in the ass, people would always talk shit about cleaning my personal belongings I have to wash 2 of my bikes the one I use and the other bike which my girlfriend use. I usually hear shit talks like "why would you clean the chain, bla bla bla" Well my chain never snapped, or worn for a very long time and I usually care about the resale value, I can sell any of my bike parts priced 75% of the original price easily. So cleaning is worth it
Nice vid Reginald! I'm OCD as well and can not stand to ride a dirty bike, mine is always as pristine as a world tour pro rider's machine. Since I switched to wax several years ago I only spend a fraction of the time cleaning as I used to because my drivetrain never needs cleaning or degreasing. I can't imagine going back to dirty old oil and all the maintenance it requires to keep it clean.
Pet dryer from Amazon is amazing for drying the chain and blasting water out of it. Stops rust forming. Great for blowing water out all the other nooks you on the rest on the bike too.
I use hot water in a wash bucket and weed sprayer bottle. I use the weed sprayer bottle with a fan nozzle to push dirt out of any place my microfiber hand cloth won’t reach. I have alloy brake tracks and on occasion I will get a green abrasive pad for dishes and soap to clean the dirt off the brake tracks. I also inspect the pads for debris and pick out any contaminants. Last thing I do is put automotive wax on the bike for extra shine and speed
Are you using the weed spray with water or compressed air? Because before I got myself a compressor that’s exactly what I did in the workshop! 😄👍🏻 You have an excellent cleaning system. Good job. 💪🏼
@@reginaldscot165 i use hot water in the weed sprayer to give the bike the first coating of water and remove any stuck on dirt. I’m also one of those insane people that has a DIY pot of wax. So my drivetrain doesn’t pick up gunk at all. Because of how little water I use I let the bike air dry and angle it on the bike stand I have to allow water to drip out and then wipe off with a microfiber towel the excess.
You've lubed the "top" of the chain with that method. I always lube between the derailleur and the crank on the "inside" so the action of pedalling encourages the lube "into" the rollers and not away.
That is OCD, but I can relate. Good tips, but it's hard to imagine more than 1-2% of cyclists of any level go to those lengths to clean their bikes. Maintaining a clean drivetrain is the bane of my cycling existence because there's no question it affects shifting performance. I'm mostly just a weekend warrior but it still matters. Your video may just compel me to finally try removing the chain and cleaning everything that way. That Lightspeed is sweet. Nothing else quite measures up to a Ti frame. They just look fantastic. Cheers.
Agreed! Every year or 6 months id say if you ride 5 times a week or more. With my Ti frame and seatpost I never worry about it getting stuck however. 😁👍🏻
As someone who barely has time to wash the family bikes, I am in awe of your dedication! Your outdoor cleaning setup looks great. I am thinking of purchasing a folding hook similar to your static one to hang frames on to make cleaning quicker and easier. What are you using and would it fit an mtb?
It’s a bike wall hanger off wiggle, lifeline I believe. It also fold’s against the wall after you are done… and that prevents me from walking into it at night! Ha ha I have a quick wash video coming soon for people who have less time. 🤭👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 Sounds great! I forgot to ask - what is your opinion on PTFE finishes like MO94? I feel they inevitably mess with braking surfaces and are really hard to control but I know bugger all so... any hot takes?
The most tedious job for a cyclist but some good tips here. My wife used to laugh at me for wearing my black wellies until I showed her your not so yellow ones.
I ride MTB and use chain wax immersion, every dirty ride i only clean the drivetrain and suspension, everytime i wash mud of the bike, some part 9f the mud goes into bearings, especially bb bearings, so i have to take them out and clean and relubricate every wash, if i wash every week, my bearings were blow long ago
Thank you! 🙏🏻 I was a shimano fan boy for years, I always dreamed of having Dura Ace on my bike one day. But unfortunately the newer stuff seems to have really dropped in quality, they still have that splitting crank arm issue and I felt if I’m spending $2,000 on something I want it to not snap on me. Also the most recent stuff is all black, I prefer silver group sets (or black silver like the older DA9000) and the SRAM RED is also significantly lighter and easier to clean. It was a difficult decision at first, but I’m very glad I went with SRAM. Also I just love to no trim FD! 🙂 Thank you for your nice comment, safe riding! 👍🏻
That’s why you use a nearly dry towel. After you have done the frame. Works fine, no issues so far in all the years I’ve been doing it but yes if you spray WD directly on the rim and don’t wipe it off it will definitely cause problems. 😅
I do not like idea with WD40 as a "polish compound". WD40 is an oil, so it attracts dirt and can cause some potential issues when applied on brake surface. Using paper towel is not also a best solution. It makes tiny scratches which will be more and more visible. Instead of WD40 and paper towel, use automotive Quick Detailer and microfibre. It is cheap, application is faster and result probably will be better.
Let me explain. WD40 was actually originally designed by the US military for cleaning ballistic Missiles. So it’s actually a cleaning product and not only works well on metal like titanium but also it’s good on paint. I have a bike that is 17 years old, painted aluminium frame and it looks like new. (People literally don’t believe me when I tell them how old the bike is because it looks so good.) I have been using this method. It also works on my steel bike that also has a painted carbon fork. Also the paper towels are a consistent material, very slightly abrasive, as a result it actually removes scratches like a polishing compound, only it’s even more gentle. Yes, the oil will attract dust, that’s why you don’t leave it oily, you do a dry pass after. (You could also use the micro fiber cloth) I actually do all my customers bikes in the same way and I get positive feedback. 🙂👍🏻 But if your system works for you I won’t tell you to stop!💪🏼 Thank you for your comment! Safe riding 🙏🏻
I think you didn't mention the underside of the saddle, well, not even the saddle. It might not be such an issue in Brunei, but it is in Northern Europe. Underneath is a great place for your car sponge noodle and if a saddle was neglected, even a toothbrush. Gunk really builds up there. My saddle has a leather surface, so I use some leather product everys now and then. Apart from that, great video, motivates me to clean my bikes a bit more often.
Wow Oz cycle! It’s an honour Sir! Yes many. I was considering making a video about why I don’t. (And it’s not because I don’t think it’s a good thing to do.) 🙂
Excellent. I use a warm air blower to ensure my bikes are dry after a wash. Lots faster and more thorough. I should spend more time and effort on my chains and, as you demonstrated, taking them off is better in every possible way. But it's a lot of work. What links do you use, and how many times on and off can you use them before they no longer hold confidently?
I replace the link with the chain, never had an issue doing it like that and I’ve never seen a customer one have any issues, so I’m guessing it’s safe… even though the manufacturers would have you replace them after every use! 😂
@@reginaldscot165 Thanks, good to know. The idea of having to replace the link each time probably deters a lot of people form taking the chain off to clean it.
Brilliant video - please could you advise on lubing derailleurs - my rear mech stopped extending properly as it was “sticky” and the mechanic used a lube spray which loosened it, but advised that degreaser may have dried it out. What would you advise?
Yes the RD and FD will need maintenance, I use my lube oil on the joints of the FD every now and again and I open the spring body of the RD and use a food grease to keep the spring from rusting. Opening the RD can be tricky. Thanks for the comment 🙏🏻👍🏻
What are your thoughts on ceramic bottom brackets and OSPW? Maybe I didn't scroll down enough to your pervious postings (perhaps you talked about it before)
I have in other videos yes, but generally. Bad idea, ceramic BBs are hybrid and don’t last and OSPW system’s actual make you slower overall! They add weight in the cage and extra chain and they add more drag. And the cheap ones are not even good bearings. 🙂
As far as I know it’s recommended to re-wax your chain every 300km. A common misconception is that if you use dry or wax lube you don’t need to clean. 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 true. 300km. Just top up. No need to go through the whole initial faff of the first time applying. Post ride, just run it down with a cloth. Frame, just wipe it with a different cloth.
I switched to wax recently. It made my life easier when comes to cleaning the chain and the cog after each ride. But some experience rust on their shimano 12 speed chain but only to the outer plate when using Silca Super Secret. I never use SRAM, I thought SRAM needs a SRAM specific chain..yours doesn't look like a SRAM chain..but please correct me if I'm wrong
No it’s a BBB Powerline lightweight chain. It seems to work fine. A lot of my customers who have sram use KMC because SRAM chains are expensive and sometimes hard to come by. 🙂 Fun fact, a sram 11sp chain will also work on shimano 11sp. 👍🏻
Oh dear. Paper towels are not good; they are abrasive. Ask any professionalautomotive detailer. Use microfiber towels. As far as not going far enough, I always take the cable housings out of the stops and remove the bottom bracket cable guide (if there is one) to better clean around the bits even a sponge or brush can not quite get at. I take the bottle cages off as well if I can't get the frame clean underneath.
Yes I know they are slightly abrasive, that’s why I use them! 🤭 That what polish is, slightly abrasive. When you use with the WD40 you get a fantastic polish. Especially on metal frames like mine. 🙂👍🏻
Me, as an OCD never leave the cassette on during cleaning and never let running water close to bearings. So, you are not that "dangerously" OCD. My level is unfortunately higher, my cleaning process is also much much more detailed.
Well as a LBB experienced bike mechanic I have never had any problems with washing with a hose pipe. 🙂 Pressure washer yes, bad idea. As for the cassette, that’s just silly, I was my bike every week so the damage to my cassette lock ring and aluminium hubs by removing the cassette every time wouldn’t be responsible. You might as well say “every time I wash my bike I remove the headset and BB!” That’s not a bike wash, that’s a service. 🤭
@@reginaldscot165 Yeah, I'm an Aussie. It was the first brand of pressure cleaner on the market over here, so it's become synonymous with that kind of cleaner. I hold that sealed bearings are sealed and I don't sit the nozzle right on anything delicate anyway. Pressure cleaner is great for getting the road muck or MTB dirt out of nooks and crannies, especial rear mech etc. You just need to keep a bit of distance and understand that you can take paint off and remove resin and shred fibre if you get too close. Not hard if one is sensible. Use the fan attachment, not the single jet one, that's too brutal. It rains a lot where eI live in the Tweed, roads are flithy. I kinda said it to wind you up, but I do use one, a Stihl actually. I didn't watch the whole thing, cos, sheesh, got better things to do than watch someone wash a bike, sorry. For my money, having a proper area to wash in is key and trumps all other concerns. A good wash down spot and how you do it barely matters.
Reginald, this was the MOST environmentally unfriendly chain cleaning action that I have seen a long time ... and this chain cleaning routine now comes from a man that argues that chain waxing is burdensome. Really, Reginald, you can switch to hot waxing directly after your next chain cleaning routine, the chain will be perfectly prepared for wax. And the best thing is, that you will have far less cleaning effort in the future. You take your chain off (as you apparently do anyways to clean the chain), throw it into the hot wax for 15 minutes, swishing it every now and then (get a 40 dollar wax pot for women/epilation wax that is able to adjust the temperature, there are several models that can do that if you don't want to pay the extra $ for the SILCA pot), pull it out, break it a bit in to remove initial "stiffness", and put it back on the bike. No need to degrease, no need to dry, not need to oil, no need to wipe. If you have two chains, you can alternate between them, so you can put a fresh chain on within one minute if you don't have time to do a full cleaning service and thrown in two chains next time. With the waxed drivetrain you will also not need to clean the chainrings and you will not need to clean the cassette, as these components will just barely attract any dirt or grime any more. If you do want to do a full reset of the chain, get an old Teflon frying pan, pour some water into it, put the chain in and boil it for 2 Minutes; old wax will float atop, dust and particles will settle down. In this case, dry the chain before waxing (some say you don't even need to dry it, but I would, it does not take long when it came out of the boiling water anyways). So I can promise you that the hands on time for cleaning and waxing is much less than what you have shown in this video for your wet-lubed drivetrain components. Plus, the wax (if you get one without PTFE) is environmentally neutral (as opposed to oil and soap and industrial degreaser). I know you're concerned with wet riding conditions and wax not protecting the bare metal of the chain against rust. What you can do in this respect (and it again only takes a few seconds to do) is to get some microfiber cloths and if you come home from a wet ride, dry the chain by letting it run through the cloth. Done. If you're super picky, then get a wax spray (for polishing cars), spray the cloth and run the chain through the cloth, this will take away water and some superficial dirt and add a fine layer of wax on the outside of the chain that will keep oxidation away (takes 2 seconds more). I know, this explanation here reads lengthy, but in practice all what I have described is a 20 seconds job (wiping) or requires only a few minutes hands-on time (hot waxing). Seeing the industrial de-greaser spill partially on the floor and being diluted with water when flushing the chain and then running over the floor was painful to watch.
I re-use most of the degreaser. 🙂 I prefer oil (video explaining why to come)😉 Depends on the severity of the OCD? If I had removed the cassette, why not also the chain rings or the headset? 😊
I agree. Dude is destroying bikes with so much degreaser. Taking the casette off for cleaning would mitigate some of the stuff that gets in the freehub and hub. Anyways... wasting my time commenting on this video.
Agree too, this is not OCD. Wayyyy to much water flooding areas where water should not be going. Don’t waste your time watching this rubbish like I did. Yeah will look shiny, but guaranteed to run like garbage 😂 😂 and your doing this every week 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
@@reginaldscot165Ha ha, true. I just assumed you were catering to your American viewers. Oh, and I am a bit of an OCD cleaner . I often think when people give me a bike for a service, all they really want is a deep clean.
WARNING WARNING WARNING: overcleaning mechanical parts for cosmetic reasons will runi all bearing sooner than you expect. The best advice is: DON'T overdo it.
OCD has many levels . My level of OCD far advanced . i use 2 cups of water to an entire bike wash and finish with wax spray polish. 2 years ago , I discovered a chain lubricant that leaves absolutely pristine and no splatter on rear triangle or wheel .
Oh do tell!
Great video Reginald.
I only ride my bike on sunny days avoid mud, snow ,road salt and rain.
I wipe down any dirt on the frame
after each ride with a soapy rag.
Chain and drivetrain cleaned weekly and lubed.
Polished weekly with wax.
This steel bike is the last one I purchase so making it look good is important to me.
Looking forward to your next video,.
All the best!
Great system you have. 💪🏼🙂
I wish I could to say the same . I cannot control the weather conditions .
the brush from a dust pan and brush is my favorite, the long bristles and handle make them really good for big cassettes and getting in behind derailleurs and chainrings
That’s a great idea! Thanks! 👍🏻🙂
As a mountain biker living in a small community without any privacy to clean my bike after every dirty Sunday trail ride ,bike wash is a pain in the ass, people would always talk shit about cleaning my personal belongings I have to wash 2 of my bikes the one I use and the other bike which my girlfriend use.
I usually hear shit talks like "why would you clean the chain, bla bla bla"
Well my chain never snapped, or worn for a very long time and I usually care about the resale value, I can sell any of my bike parts priced 75% of the original price easily. So cleaning is worth it
Good man! Don’t listen pay any attention to the fools and their silly comments. Keep washing your bike how you like. 🙂👍🏻
I thought I was "bad" & OTT when it comes to cleaning and maintaining my bike! Nice job! I have definitely taken some tips
That’s wonderful news! Thank you for the comment! 🙏🏻🙂
Nice vid Reginald! I'm OCD as well and can not stand to ride a dirty bike, mine is always as pristine as a world tour pro rider's machine. Since I switched to wax several years ago I only spend a fraction of the time cleaning as I used to because my drivetrain never needs cleaning or degreasing. I can't imagine going back to dirty old oil and all the maintenance it requires to keep it clean.
Cool 😎 👍🏻 And thank you. 🙏🏻
Pet dryer from Amazon is amazing for drying the chain and blasting water out of it. Stops rust forming. Great for blowing water out all the other nooks you on the rest on the bike too.
Excellent advice. 👍🏻 But be careful you don’t blow water into stuff, especially the headset. 😉
I used to finish my chain with 99% alcohol to push the water out. Alcohol will evaporate quickly leaving the chain bone dry even inside the rollers
I use hot water in a wash bucket and weed sprayer bottle. I use the weed sprayer bottle with a fan nozzle to push dirt out of any place my microfiber hand cloth won’t reach. I have alloy brake tracks and on occasion I will get a green abrasive pad for dishes and soap to clean the dirt off the brake tracks. I also inspect the pads for debris and pick out any contaminants.
Last thing I do is put automotive wax on the bike for extra shine and speed
Are you using the weed spray with water or compressed air? Because before I got myself a compressor that’s exactly what I did in the workshop! 😄👍🏻
You have an excellent cleaning system. Good job. 💪🏼
@@reginaldscot165 i use hot water in the weed sprayer to give the bike the first coating of water and remove any stuck on dirt. I’m also one of those insane people that has a DIY pot of wax. So my drivetrain doesn’t pick up gunk at all.
Because of how little water I use I let the bike air dry and angle it on the bike stand I have to allow water to drip out and then wipe off with a microfiber towel the excess.
You've lubed the "top" of the chain with that method. I always lube between the derailleur and the crank on the "inside" so the action of pedalling encourages the lube "into" the rollers and not away.
Oil spreads very well, especially this kind. 👍🏻🙂
That is OCD, but I can relate. Good tips, but it's hard to imagine more than 1-2% of cyclists of any level go to those lengths to clean their bikes. Maintaining a clean drivetrain is the bane of my cycling existence because there's no question it affects shifting performance. I'm mostly just a weekend warrior but it still matters. Your video may just compel me to finally try removing the chain and cleaning everything that way.
That Lightspeed is sweet. Nothing else quite measures up to a Ti frame. They just look fantastic. Cheers.
Thank you! For the other people who don’t have the time I have a quick wash video. 😁👍🏻
A yearly tear down should also be done. Stuck Seat Posts, Creeky Rail Clamps. All bolts need to be cleaned and lubed yearly.
Agreed! Every year or 6 months id say if you ride 5 times a week or more. With my Ti frame and seatpost I never worry about it getting stuck however. 😁👍🏻
As someone who barely has time to wash the family bikes, I am in awe of your dedication! Your outdoor cleaning setup looks great. I am thinking of purchasing a folding hook similar to your static one to hang frames on to make cleaning quicker and easier. What are you using and would it fit an mtb?
It’s a bike wall hanger off wiggle, lifeline I believe. It also fold’s against the wall after you are done… and that prevents me from walking into it at night! Ha ha
I have a quick wash video coming soon for people who have less time. 🤭👍🏻
@@reginaldscot165 Sounds great! I forgot to ask - what is your opinion on PTFE finishes like MO94? I feel they inevitably mess with braking surfaces and are really hard to control but I know bugger all so... any hot takes?
The most tedious job for a cyclist but some good tips here. My wife used to laugh at me for wearing my black wellies until I showed her your not so yellow ones.
I ride MTB and use chain wax immersion, every dirty ride i only clean the drivetrain and suspension, everytime i wash mud of the bike, some part 9f the mud goes into bearings, especially bb bearings, so i have to take them out and clean and relubricate every wash, if i wash every week, my bearings were blow long ago
What a beautiful bike! If it was a dura ace gruppo I would be smitten
Thank you! 🙏🏻
I was a shimano fan boy for years, I always dreamed of having Dura Ace on my bike one day.
But unfortunately the newer stuff seems to have really dropped in quality, they still have that splitting crank arm issue and I felt if I’m spending $2,000 on something I want it to not snap on me. Also the most recent stuff is all black, I prefer silver group sets (or black silver like the older DA9000) and the SRAM RED is also significantly lighter and easier to clean.
It was a difficult decision at first, but I’m very glad I went with SRAM. Also I just love to no trim FD! 🙂
Thank you for your nice comment, safe riding! 👍🏻
Wd40 in the brake surfaces 0f the rim is a big No , NO : very near to a R.I.P Tombstone . I hope you read me at this moment if you're still among us .
That’s why you use a nearly dry towel. After you have done the frame. Works fine, no issues so far in all the years I’ve been doing it but yes if you spray WD directly on the rim and don’t wipe it off it will definitely cause problems. 😅
@@reginaldscot165 LORD is great , LORD is good ! Let's hope for your unaware costumers customers.
Sincerely !
Excellent! Good as new 👌
Good luck with your bike!
I do not like idea with WD40 as a "polish compound". WD40 is an oil, so it attracts dirt and can cause some potential issues when applied on brake surface. Using paper towel is not also a best solution. It makes tiny scratches which will be more and more visible. Instead of WD40 and paper towel, use automotive Quick Detailer and microfibre. It is cheap, application is faster and result probably will be better.
Let me explain.
WD40 was actually originally designed by the US military for cleaning ballistic Missiles. So it’s actually a cleaning product and not only works well on metal like titanium but also it’s good on paint.
I have a bike that is 17 years old, painted aluminium frame and it looks like new. (People literally don’t believe me when I tell them how old the bike is because it looks so good.) I have been using this method. It also works on my steel bike that also has a painted carbon fork.
Also the paper towels are a consistent material, very slightly abrasive, as a result it actually removes scratches like a polishing compound, only it’s even more gentle.
Yes, the oil will attract dust, that’s why you don’t leave it oily, you do a dry pass after. (You could also use the micro fiber cloth)
I actually do all my customers bikes in the same way and I get positive feedback. 🙂👍🏻
But if your system works for you I won’t tell you to stop!💪🏼
Thank you for your comment! Safe riding 🙏🏻
I wash my mountainbike as good as I can on the street outside the house, and the rest does the rain eventually
I think you didn't mention the underside of the saddle, well, not even the saddle. It might not be such an issue in Brunei, but it is in Northern Europe. Underneath is a great place for your car sponge noodle and if a saddle was neglected, even a toothbrush. Gunk really builds up there. My saddle has a leather surface, so I use some leather product everys now and then.
Apart from that, great video, motivates me to clean my bikes a bit more often.
Good points and yes. 👍🏻
Hi Reginald. With all due respect , is there a reason you don't wax your chain?
Wow Oz cycle! It’s an honour Sir!
Yes many. I was considering making a video about why I don’t. (And it’s not because I don’t think it’s a good thing to do.) 🙂
I take the bottle cages off, clean them and behind them, then reinstall.
That’s good.
Excellent. I use a warm air blower to ensure my bikes are dry after a wash. Lots faster and more thorough. I should spend more time and effort on my chains and, as you demonstrated, taking them off is better in every possible way. But it's a lot of work. What links do you use, and how many times on and off can you use them before they no longer hold confidently?
I replace the link with the chain, never had an issue doing it like that and I’ve never seen a customer one have any issues, so I’m guessing it’s safe… even though the manufacturers would have you replace them after every use! 😂
@@reginaldscot165 Thanks, good to know. The idea of having to replace the link each time probably deters a lot of people form taking the chain off to clean it.
Chains stretch though clean or not. Also would check the brake pads for debris
Yes always check the pads. 👍🏻🙂
Brilliant video - please could you advise on lubing derailleurs - my rear mech stopped extending properly as it was “sticky” and the mechanic used a lube spray which loosened it, but advised that degreaser may have dried it out. What would you advise?
Yes the RD and FD will need maintenance, I use my lube oil on the joints of the FD every now and again and I open the spring body of the RD and use a food grease to keep the spring from rusting. Opening the RD can be tricky.
Thanks for the comment 🙏🏻👍🏻
I would clean my cassette in a similar way but am I potentially flushing the grease out of the freehub with the degreaser ?
Depends how much you use, it shouldn’t be enough for that. You only need to apply to the cassette. 🙂👍🏻
Hi Reginald. How about a video on cleaning your wellington boots.
Ha ha now that I don’t know how to do! And as I clean so many bikes it would be pointless. 😅
What are your thoughts on ceramic bottom brackets and OSPW? Maybe I didn't scroll down enough to your pervious postings (perhaps you talked about it before)
I have in other videos yes, but generally. Bad idea, ceramic BBs are hybrid and don’t last and OSPW system’s actual make you slower overall! They add weight in the cage and extra chain and they add more drag. And the cheap ones are not even good bearings. 🙂
Nice video! What model Litespeed is that?
Thanks! For that answer go see my video “The world’s best performance road bike.” Posted 1 month ago. 😉
I’ve not done this for a longgggggg time since I now run Silca’s Super Secret wax drip. Haha
As far as I know it’s recommended to re-wax your chain every 300km. A common misconception is that if you use dry or wax lube you don’t need to clean. 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 true. 300km. Just top up. No need to go through the whole initial faff of the first time applying.
Post ride, just run it down with a cloth.
Frame, just wipe it with a different cloth.
I switched to wax recently. It made my life easier when comes to cleaning the chain and the cog after each ride. But some experience rust on their shimano 12 speed chain but only to the outer plate when using Silca Super Secret. I never use SRAM, I thought SRAM needs a SRAM specific chain..yours doesn't look like a SRAM chain..but please correct me if I'm wrong
No it’s a BBB Powerline lightweight chain. It seems to work fine. A lot of my customers who have sram use KMC because SRAM chains are expensive and sometimes hard to come by. 🙂
Fun fact, a sram 11sp chain will also work on shimano 11sp. 👍🏻
Oh dear. Paper towels are not good; they are abrasive. Ask any professionalautomotive detailer. Use microfiber towels.
As far as not going far enough, I always take the cable housings out of the stops and remove the bottom bracket cable guide (if there is one) to better clean around the bits even a sponge or brush can not quite get at. I take the bottle cages off as well if I can't get the frame clean underneath.
Yes I know they are slightly abrasive, that’s why I use them! 🤭 That what polish is, slightly abrasive. When you use with the WD40 you get a fantastic polish. Especially on metal frames like mine. 🙂👍🏻
Me, as an OCD never leave the cassette on during cleaning and never let running water close to bearings. So, you are not that "dangerously" OCD. My level is unfortunately higher, my cleaning process is also much much more detailed.
Well as a LBB experienced bike mechanic I have never had any problems with washing with a hose pipe. 🙂 Pressure washer yes, bad idea.
As for the cassette, that’s just silly, I was my bike every week so the damage to my cassette lock ring and aluminium hubs by removing the cassette every time wouldn’t be responsible. You might as well say “every time I wash my bike I remove the headset and BB!” That’s not a bike wash, that’s a service. 🤭
What about the wall? 😱
When it gets totally black I will re-paint it. 😁
Do You recommend on getting a ultrasonic cleaner
Never used one… but was thinking about it. If you don’t mind your bike wash taking longer then why not. 👍🏻
i just let the mud act as lube and let the rain wash off the majority of it lol
Good thinking 🙂👍🏻
You didn´t even remove the cassette and the jockey wheels ;-)
Ha ha that’s true! ☠️
When title read OCD I thought you may have been exaggerating, but not the case!
I try not to do click bait 😁
‘Tips from “an” OCD bike mechanic’
Than you!
I just use a Gerni.
Are you from Oz? I had to look that up! Never heard of that brand.
@@reginaldscot165 Yeah, I'm an Aussie. It was the first brand of pressure cleaner on the market over here, so it's become synonymous with that kind of cleaner. I hold that sealed bearings are sealed and I don't sit the nozzle right on anything delicate anyway. Pressure cleaner is great for getting the road muck or MTB dirt out of nooks and crannies, especial rear mech etc. You just need to keep a bit of distance and understand that you can take paint off and remove resin and shred fibre if you get too close. Not hard if one is sensible. Use the fan attachment, not the single jet one, that's too brutal.
It rains a lot where eI live in the Tweed, roads are flithy. I kinda said it to wind you up, but I do use one, a Stihl actually. I didn't watch the whole thing, cos, sheesh, got better things to do than watch someone wash a bike, sorry. For my money, having a proper area to wash in is key and trumps all other concerns. A good wash down spot and how you do it barely matters.
Would you refuse service to a customer who refused to clean his bike?
No? That’s what I get paid to do. 🙂 But I always include a wash of the customer bike in the service. 👍🏻
Reginald, this was the MOST environmentally unfriendly chain cleaning action that I have seen a long time ... and this chain cleaning routine now comes from a man that argues that chain waxing is burdensome. Really, Reginald, you can switch to hot waxing directly after your next chain cleaning routine, the chain will be perfectly prepared for wax. And the best thing is, that you will have far less cleaning effort in the future. You take your chain off (as you apparently do anyways to clean the chain), throw it into the hot wax for 15 minutes, swishing it every now and then (get a 40 dollar wax pot for women/epilation wax that is able to adjust the temperature, there are several models that can do that if you don't want to pay the extra $ for the SILCA pot), pull it out, break it a bit in to remove initial "stiffness", and put it back on the bike. No need to degrease, no need to dry, not need to oil, no need to wipe. If you have two chains, you can alternate between them, so you can put a fresh chain on within one minute if you don't have time to do a full cleaning service and thrown in two chains next time. With the waxed drivetrain you will also not need to clean the chainrings and you will not need to clean the cassette, as these components will just barely attract any dirt or grime any more. If you do want to do a full reset of the chain, get an old Teflon frying pan, pour some water into it, put the chain in and boil it for 2 Minutes; old wax will float atop, dust and particles will settle down. In this case, dry the chain before waxing (some say you don't even need to dry it, but I would, it does not take long when it came out of the boiling water anyways).
So I can promise you that the hands on time for cleaning and waxing is much less than what you have shown in this video for your wet-lubed drivetrain components.
Plus, the wax (if you get one without PTFE) is environmentally neutral (as opposed to oil and soap and industrial degreaser).
I know you're concerned with wet riding conditions and wax not protecting the bare metal of the chain against rust. What you can do in this respect (and it again only takes a few seconds to do) is to get some microfiber cloths and if you come home from a wet ride, dry the chain by letting it run through the cloth. Done. If you're super picky, then get a wax spray (for polishing cars), spray the cloth and run the chain through the cloth, this will take away water and some superficial dirt and add a fine layer of wax on the outside of the chain that will keep oxidation away (takes 2 seconds more).
I know, this explanation here reads lengthy, but in practice all what I have described is a 20 seconds job (wiping) or requires only a few minutes hands-on time (hot waxing).
Seeing the industrial de-greaser spill partially on the floor and being diluted with water when flushing the chain and then running over the floor was painful to watch.
You will enjoy the next video I post. 😉
You use too much degreaser. Stop using oil based lubes and start waxing.
A real OCD person would take the cassette off the wheel.
I re-use most of the degreaser. 🙂
I prefer oil (video explaining why to come)😉
Depends on the severity of the OCD? If I had removed the cassette, why not also the chain rings or the headset? 😊
I agree. Dude is destroying bikes with so much degreaser. Taking the casette off for cleaning would mitigate some of the stuff that gets in the freehub and hub. Anyways... wasting my time commenting on this video.
@@SummitSmile funny all those years and all that degreaser and still no damage? 🤭
Agree too, this is not OCD. Wayyyy to much water flooding areas where water should not be going. Don’t waste your time watching this rubbish like I did. Yeah will look shiny, but guaranteed to run like garbage 😂 😂 and your doing this every week 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
Who from England calls washing up liquid dish soap?
Someone who spent 6 years in South East Asia. 😅
Also Dish Soap is way more efficient as it’s only 2 words. 😎
@@reginaldscot165Ha ha, true. I just assumed you were catering to your American viewers.
Oh, and I am a bit of an OCD cleaner .
I often think when people give me a bike for a service, all they really want is a deep clean.
I bet your wife loves you cleaning your bike next to a white wall !
All my walls are white. This one is at the back. She has never had issues with it but she is more easy going than myself.
First you wash. Then you detail.
Correct 👍🏻
WARNING WARNING WARNING: overcleaning mechanical parts for cosmetic reasons will runi all bearing sooner than you expect. The best advice is: DON'T overdo it.
It depends how you wash? Never personally had any issues with bearings from washing 1 time a week. 🙂
Strange that a self-proclaimed OCD would allow the white wall of the building to remain dirty.
Ha ha funny 😆
13:22 as my Dennis says, you only need to floss the teeth you want to keep
😄👍🏻