The plastic rim caliper is usually off by half an inch. Next time you mount a tire measure the inside with a tape measure and also look for the width spec on molded into the aluminum (16x7 etc) then check with the caliper. Once I stopped trusting the caliper, my usage of the balancer became more accurate. Not that it would have helped that tire you showed, its going to be a problem either way.
I have to agree that using clip weights on alloy rims causes more problems than it solves. Steel clips, alloy wheel and a salt mixture on the winter goves you four mini electrolysis machines.
Doesn't look very cheap. Being 50% cheaper than the name brand I suppose it is though you also get a balancer included just that is about the same price as this whole set up so pretty good deal. I f I could afford it I would get one 2-3 changes and its paid for.
When I'm training a new tech to break down tpms sensor installed rims, I teach to have the valve stem just to the left of the duck head, that way the tire tool doesn't accidentally hit the sensor. But as long as the sensor is near the duck head, it shouldn't get damaged. When reinstalling a new tire, I tell them to have the valve stem lead the tire bead, around the rim. In other words, keep the tire bead behind the sensor stem while it's turning. When I end up with a tire that doesn't quite balance out as much as I'd like, I'll put it on the passenger side rear position. That would be the least noticeable spot for the ride quality of the vehicle. Then, hopefully, the next time it's balanced, it should balance out better. Maybe after a few thousand miles, take that tire back off and try rebalancing it dynamically, and see if it doesn't balance better.
Hey nichols if this helps your rims are usely what's off balance [use stick on wieghts and get your rim balanced] so if you line up your tire dots often no need to remove/add the weights also mounting tires try silicone spray they darn near push on the rims by hand .other wise things are just practice .and get a tire crayon so you mark where tires came off of when you do a season change over. what did your machines cost ?
if it keeps chasing weights like that it could have some water left in the tire. I've had a few times where i didn't get everything out & was dicking around with the balancer for a good hour
Need to get yourself some tire crayons. Can mark references on the tire when you're shifting the tires around on the rim. Another mod you can do is buy a balancer locator laser to mount on the balancer. I have the same exact balancer, and that's my next planned project. They have them on Aliexpress for a lot cheaper than what ebay and amazon sell them for. They're the same exact products with the same shipping times, so, I'm ordering 2 from Aliexpress to mount one on the top for tack on weights, and one for the bottom to mount on sticky weights. I'm getting the laser that takes an 18650 battery, and it has a mount that the laser can detach from to charge via USB. lastly, I've been having the same problems using CK Auto weights. I need to weigh them on a scale, because it seems like I'm chasing weights on some wheels.
I don’t know if you can set your machine up for static balance. That’s how I do all of my aluminum wheels, one stick on weight in the middle of the rim. That way, I don’t have those ugly weights hammered on the outside of the rim. salt and the weights corroding the rim. Plus, you don’t crack the clearcoat on the outside of the rim, causing it to discolor and corrode more.
The machine was set on static balance for that test, I agree with the stick on weights if it’s something you care about. If it’s not the tap on weights are the way to go, super easy to put on and off and you don’t have to deal with that annoying tape that you have to scrape and clean if you’re rebalancing.
@@nicholsperformance92 I never worry about the tape left on the rim doesn’t matter. Brake cleans the spot you’re going to put the weight on wipe it off with a rag stick the weight on. Never have any problems with them coming off. Only way to go if you racing the car they don’t come off.
The plastic rim caliper is usually off by half an inch. Next time you mount a tire measure the inside with a tape measure and also look for the width spec on molded into the aluminum (16x7 etc) then check with the caliper. Once I stopped trusting the caliper, my usage of the balancer became more accurate. Not that it would have helped that tire you showed, its going to be a problem either way.
Good point, I think mines reasonably close, but I’ll double check next time to be sure.
I have to agree that using clip weights on alloy rims causes more problems than it solves. Steel clips, alloy wheel and a salt mixture on the winter goves you four mini electrolysis machines.
Doesn't look very cheap. Being 50% cheaper than the name brand I suppose it is though you also get a balancer included just that is about the same price as this whole set up so pretty good deal. I f I could afford it I would get one 2-3 changes and its paid for.
When I'm training a new tech to break down tpms sensor installed rims, I teach to have the valve stem just to the left of the duck head, that way the tire tool doesn't accidentally hit the sensor. But as long as the sensor is near the duck head, it shouldn't get damaged.
When reinstalling a new tire, I tell them to have the valve stem lead the tire bead, around the rim. In other words, keep the tire bead behind the sensor stem while it's turning.
When I end up with a tire that doesn't quite balance out as much as I'd like, I'll put it on the passenger side rear position. That would be the least noticeable spot for the ride quality of the vehicle. Then, hopefully, the next time it's balanced, it should balance out better. Maybe after a few thousand miles, take that tire back off and try rebalancing it dynamically, and see if it doesn't balance better.
Yes sir, this all sounds right to me. thanks for the input.
Hey nichols if this helps your rims are usely what's off balance [use stick on wieghts and get your rim balanced] so if you line up your tire dots often no need to remove/add the weights also mounting tires try silicone spray they darn near push on the rims by hand .other wise things are just practice .and get a tire crayon so you mark where tires came off of when you do a season change over. what did your machines cost ?
I would like to see the machine vs. the bubble balancer.
I still use a bubble balancer with great success
A bubble machine is a joke there is w kinds of imbalance and that is only 1 dimensions tech has come a long way since 1970 and it's here to stay
@petercapuano3418 Bubble balancer is my always go to.
if it keeps chasing weights like that it could have some water left in the tire. I've had a few times where i didn't get everything out & was dicking around with the balancer for a good hour
Very good point! Another reason why I push the whole cleaning thing.
Need to get yourself some tire crayons. Can mark references on the tire when you're shifting the tires around on the rim. Another mod you can do is buy a balancer locator laser to mount on the balancer. I have the same exact balancer, and that's my next planned project. They have them on Aliexpress for a lot cheaper than what ebay and amazon sell them for. They're the same exact products with the same shipping times, so, I'm ordering 2 from Aliexpress to mount one on the top for tack on weights, and one for the bottom to mount on sticky weights. I'm getting the laser that takes an 18650 battery, and it has a mount that the laser can detach from to charge via USB. lastly, I've been having the same problems using CK Auto weights. I need to weigh them on a scale, because it seems like I'm chasing weights on some wheels.
I probably should get some crayons. I've also heard of ppl putting lasers on these, sounds cool.
Maybe try to use cone frome inside of the rim for better balance
On the name brands the cone usually is always inside. But with this I seem to have better fitment on out side.
@@nicholsperformance92 I see
I don’t know if you can set your machine up for static balance. That’s how I do all of my aluminum wheels, one stick on weight in the middle of the rim. That way, I don’t have those ugly weights hammered on the outside of the rim. salt and the weights corroding the rim. Plus, you don’t crack the clearcoat on the outside of the rim, causing it to discolor and corrode more.
The machine was set on static balance for that test, I agree with the stick on weights if it’s something you care about. If it’s not the tap on weights are the way to go, super easy to put on and off and you don’t have to deal with that annoying tape that you have to scrape and clean if you’re rebalancing.
@@nicholsperformance92 I never worry about the tape left on the rim doesn’t matter. Brake cleans the spot you’re going to put the weight on wipe it off with a rag stick the weight on. Never have any problems with them coming off. Only way to go if you racing the car they don’t come off.
no safety glasses required, just use your safety squints, be safe out there !!!
lol that’s why I take my safety squints everywhere I go!
If you have weights counter balancing each other it would seem that it's not calibrate right
Thx, I think it’s finally time. I plan on recalibrating next use.
Can't believe it's been A YEAR
Times crazy like that ha. I noticed I uploaded the old tire vid in the same month... Didn't even realize it was that close.
Hey it works what more can you ask for.😎👍
Mine won’t calibrate I get a error-8 code
Thats scary I was planing on recalibrating mine tomorrow for the first time. 🫣
Your chasing weight, just needs recalibration
Thx, I think it is finally time. I plan on doing it next use.
Looks like under trump we’re going to pay double the price, because of trump’s tariffs.
if it makes America great again so be it
@@JCartagena8989 good luck with that he’s going to drive US into a recession.
Buy an American one
Go away libtard
Under Harris waltz we were heading to WW3, 😢