Oh my gosh! Thank you so much for these videos. I have been trying to resolve an HVAC problem with my dads 95 in very short trips visiting over holidays. I could never figure out how to access the programmer for removal. I know how I am spending my next visit!
I cut the 2 hour time down to 3 minutes to get the 'press-on metal keeper'!!! However, I already had the dashboard and passenger side panel, out to do a heater core replacement, so I was able to disconnect the other ends of the vacuum lines (the brown vac line is up under the top side of the dashboard. The black and orange lines require access under the passenger side panel foot area. Pink and blue are accessable under the driver side) so I could pull the programmer module down to have proper access to the keeper with needle nose pliers. However, it did take me 15 minutes just to get the brown vaccuum line disconnected, so I still feel lucky to have the keeper off, plus the vac lines, opposite side from the solenoid block, in about 20 minutes! LOL
Dont even bother with the needle nose pliers . Just slide a very thin small screwdriver under that clip washer . Then once you have it raised a little cut it with small wire cutters . Your welcome . Took me longer to get the main covers off than it did the module box .
Why not just replace the metal keeper with a traditional nut once you have it off? The point of the keeper is expediency on a production line, the washer is there to distribute the clamping force of whatever is pushing down on it. It would save you a lot of time on the next go around, I think.
The repair kit includes a lock nut and washer to reattach the vac lines. Also, when we rebuild your programmer, we send it back with a lock nut and washer. --batee
I still have to find out what is wrong with mine hvac system. The vacuum is not working like it should. Once you turn ac/heat or vent on it will blow the air to windshield and foot. After a while driving around it will divert to center air vents like you intended. I know for a fact my cruise control is not working. So, havent figured out yet if it is vacuum lines related or it is a bad HVAC module.
@@hpo2813any luck?…what did you figure out? I’ve got a ‘91..just cleaned the HVAC head unit and think I may have to tackle this project. My air is also stuck on windshield and feet but never goes to center
Always removed the negative battery terminal FIRST. Removing the positive battery terminal first sets you up for the wrench contacting anything metal, including the ECM that on certain years sits directly above the battery. SPARKS FLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS !
My 96 has the manual slide control, but is having the usual hvac problems with vent control and a/c blowing hot. Is there a programmer with the manual a/c controls?
Great video, however always disconnect negative battery terminal instead of positive terminal. You take a huge chance if you take the the positive off 1st. Dead short! Body is negative ground!
I can't even find the programmer module after removing the two front panels on my 93?! If it's somewhere way back at the pedals, forget it, I can't even look there, how should I even be able to work there?
Remove the driver seat, lay on your back with feet in the air. Once there, its actually quite comfortable. Getting to and from that position is the trick.
I'm just wondering why the heck would you put that stupid thin press on nothing back on should just put a goddamn threaded night on there with a thin wall
The symptoms of a malfunctioning programmer are hot air blowing through the defogger full tilt (this is the default mode in event of failure, for safety reasons), unresponsive HVAC controls, and dashes where the temperature would normally be displayed.
My ECC works fine but compressor would not engage . Jumped out low pressure switch to confirm clutch and AC work which they did and that confirmed ECC works correctly . Next culprit is the controller module under the dash . Oh fun . Batee has a kit to rebuild controller module which I will be doing tomorrow .
Batee: It’ll take about 2 hours to get the metal fastener off the vacuum line connector
Me: what a funny guy
Me 3 and half hours later: yo wtf
What is that black line at the bottom right at 4:56
Oh my gosh! Thank you so much for these videos. I have been trying to resolve an HVAC problem with my dads 95 in very short trips visiting over holidays. I could never figure out how to access the programmer for removal. I know how I am spending my next visit!
I cut the 2 hour time down to 3 minutes to get the 'press-on metal keeper'!!! However, I already had the dashboard and passenger side panel, out to do a heater core replacement, so I was able to disconnect the other ends of the vacuum lines (the brown vac line is up under the top side of the dashboard. The black and orange lines require access under the passenger side panel foot area. Pink and blue are accessable under the driver side) so I could pull the programmer module down to have proper access to the keeper with needle nose pliers. However, it did take me 15 minutes just to get the brown vaccuum line disconnected, so I still feel lucky to have the keeper off, plus the vac lines, opposite side from the solenoid block, in about 20 minutes! LOL
Dont even bother with the needle nose pliers . Just slide a very thin small screwdriver under that clip washer . Then once you have it raised a little cut it with small wire cutters .
Your welcome .
Took me longer to get the main covers off than it did the module box .
Why not just replace the metal keeper with a traditional nut once you have it off? The point of the keeper is expediency on a production line, the washer is there to distribute the clamping force of whatever is pushing down on it. It would save you a lot of time on the next go around, I think.
o thought the same thing! just replace it with a self locking nut and call it a day.
The repair kit includes a lock nut and washer to reattach the vac lines. Also, when we rebuild your programmer, we send it back with a lock nut and washer. --batee
That’s great!
I still have to find out what is wrong with mine hvac system. The vacuum is not working like it should. Once you turn ac/heat or vent on it will blow the air to windshield and foot. After a while driving around it will divert to center air vents like you intended.
I know for a fact my cruise control is not working. So, havent figured out yet if it is vacuum lines related or it is a bad HVAC module.
@@hpo2813any luck?…what did you figure out? I’ve got a ‘91..just cleaned the HVAC head unit and think I may have to tackle this project. My air is also stuck on windshield and feet but never goes to center
Always removed the negative battery terminal FIRST. Removing the positive battery terminal first sets you up for the wrench contacting anything metal, including the ECM that on certain years sits directly above the battery. SPARKS FLY WHEN THIS HAPPENS !
My 96 has the manual slide control, but is having the usual hvac problems with vent control and a/c blowing hot. Is there a programmer with the manual a/c controls?
hi, thanks so much! you can help me? where this sistem take vacuum line? i can´t find it in the motor compartiment.
Great video, however always disconnect negative battery terminal instead of positive terminal. You take a huge chance if you take the the positive off 1st. Dead short! Body is negative ground!
Hello i have 1 issue i am tired to fix this problem i can not get any air from the vent i need exactly what is the problem and how to fix it
I have a 1996 Corvette C4 I have a condition to the defrost will not come out of the vents how can I fix that
I can't even find the programmer module after removing the two front panels on my 93?! If it's somewhere way back at the pedals, forget it, I can't even look there, how should I even be able to work there?
Remove the driver seat, lay on your back with feet in the air. Once there, its actually quite comfortable. Getting to and from that position is the trick.
is this process same/similar on a 1987 C4?
I'm just wondering why the heck would you put that stupid thin press on nothing back on should just put a goddamn threaded night on there with a thin wall
Thank you!
What was going on that u knew it was the moduler
The symptoms of a malfunctioning programmer are hot air blowing through the defogger full tilt (this is the default mode in event of failure, for safety reasons), unresponsive HVAC controls, and dashes where the temperature would normally be displayed.
My ECC works fine but compressor would not engage . Jumped out low pressure switch to confirm clutch and AC work which they did and that confirmed ECC works correctly . Next culprit is the controller module under the dash . Oh fun . Batee has a kit to rebuild controller module which I will be doing tomorrow .
@@trip5003 ended up being the MAP sensor thanks
@@vomErsten i have the dashes on mine and unresponsive buttons and no outside temp. Is this programmer my problem?
@@waltermiller249 what were your problems