I ride a 2020 yz250x mostly in single track from fast stuff to technical very slow rocky and also log hopping and mtn climbing. Been riding since 1965 Raced motocross and enduro for years. This bike with stock carb, mine jetted to 1000 ft elevation is incredible. I use my air fuel mixture screw to adjust to the various elevations I ride. I recently bought a thumb air fuel mixture screw and idle screw. I know my settings for tuns out from 500 ft elevation to 9000 ft elevation. I am sure Colorado single track at 25k ft elevation same jetting it would still run fine with turning air screw out more. My Cass probably 3 turns out. Easy to adjust and just blip the throttle from idle you will know when your good. Like 40 secs you will have it. Than next time you ride 1000 ft I just turn it back to 7/8 turn out. I run 50:1 ratio full synthetic and get a little spuge of oil. Better than none. I also put a little heavier fly wheel on it. Had 40 some bikes and this has been my favorite since day one. Yamaha builds reliable bikes. I also changed out coolant to engine ice because it helped my 4 strokes from boiling. I also 1 finger clutch and front brake. Bothe levers cut down. Suspension is superb one you set your sag. Corners great and stand 90% of the time. Try to never take my feet off the pegs while moving.
Just run a lower flash point pre mix. To get rid of that spooge. Everyone runs oils with 500 degree flash point. Just like your jetting. Run a pre mix that fits your riding. Not mx or desert racing. Something 250 degree or lower. So it burns off instead of accumulates
And man, the stock bike is so rich, I was surprised it did not foul plugs often. I have never ruined expensive Jersey's before, because of oil droplets coming from the stinger, and landing on the backs of my jerseys. I raised the compression by lowering the cylinder which helped a lot, and i am still working on nice, clean crisp jetting.
I have the 24 run stock jetting and mix 32:1 I rise really rocky PA ST in 3rd and the bike does well and when I get into the open stuff I can keep the YZ out front and it sounds and feels awesome. I'm also running a 22.5mm offset tree and it turns as good as any bikes I have been on...
I port (with a CNC mill, and hand finishing) and stroke small 2-stroke engines for a living. If you don't mind using 100 octane fuel, (I mix expensive 110 with local alky free 90 REC gas 50/50.), you can lower your cylinder by getting rid of the cylinder base gasket (seal it well with a very good sealer that resists gasoline), to get the exhaust port lower to better match the lower rpm pipes, for more low end power. Matching pipe and porting is the main key to 2-stroke performance. I run stock gearing still (I usually gear down a bit and will when I wear this set out), and weigh 200 lbs. I can now "short shift" through the gears with no clutch (just let off the gas a bit to shift), and the engine keeps pulling well, and not too explosive. I did not put a tach on it, but I don't think I lost much top end over-rev. Maybe 500 rpm. FMF Gnarley pipe with V-force reeds with no aluminum spacer plate,-and a lower cylinder, makes the engine a great off road mill.
I have an ‘18 Yz250x. I’m 50 yrs old and have owned many different bikes through the years. The 250x is a great all around bike. I just installed an apex MX head on it and it is amazing. Great bike!
Great video and I agree with everything you said. I have a 2022 YZ250X with a FMF Gnarly and shorty exhaust with a Lectron carburetor. Perfect for any condition I have encountered.
Thanks for making this video as I think many wonder if the 250X is a good choice for hard enduro stuff. I've owned a KTM 300, YZ 250X and Beta 250RR in the last few years. The YZ is not a good hard enduro bike. Its clutch is not precise, it turns poorly, has a wide turn radius, it's top heavy and has a higher seat height compared to the Beta. The motor needs a flywheel weight and runs better in the slow stuff with a modded head. It comes stock with tall gearing. The lack of a kickstart isn't a big deal because it starts easily but if you lose position on a climb because you didn't have the button, then that adds to how imprecise the YZ is in technical riding. Hard enduro about much more than the bike not overheating. It's about being able to place the bike exactly where you need it and precise controls make that possible. I did love my YZ in the straight and fast stuff. Super stable. Love the parts availability and price. It has its niche but it's not hard enduro.
Previous bike was a '23 125X... recently went to a '24 250XC and Id highly disagree... after 40 hours im trading her in and going back to the YZ. I've rode them back to back and would take to 250X any day... handling and suspension are incredibly superior to the current KTM frame. Rode a '24 250X back to back with mine and would choose the YZ any day.
I have a 21 yz250x and I feel its a great do it all bike thats not bad at anything but not great at anything either. Its perfect for going slow through the woods and its fun and capable on the track. For the price, reliability and ease of maintenance its hard to beat. I have never had any problems over heating and running 32:1 still have the original plug in it with 40 hours and have never touched the carb either. Half those hours is slow technical and the other half is track.
It can't keep up to 450's on a modern fast MX track. It is too tall to corner well, (higher than any 4-stroke I have sat on. It may be the tallest bike made today, and taller than ever before), and the newer thin seat will not let you lower it much there, so you have to take some off the suspension. At least 1.5" total lower is pretty good for anybody under 5'10" tall. The motor is tuned for higher rpm (the X not as much with a lower rpm pipe), and is terrible for the woods. If you want a great bike, this is not it for any discipline. But you can make it into a great bike for anything off road, sans racing 450's on a modern fast MX track,--like this track. I never had to do so much work on a bike to make it great for something. But now, it is a lower rpm short shifting monster that corners well, with modified plastic to get rid of the Batman art look. :)
I'm looking at picking up a 250X and had wondered about its luggability, so thank you for making this video! But I have to ask, why this as opposed to a KDX 200 which you can find for a 1/4 of the price? Even with mods like swapping with KX suspension, the Kawi is far, far cheaper. I'm torn between the two options.
So as much as I love Kawasaki and I really wanted a KDX. The main reason I got the YZ250x over a KDX is, parts. Its only going to get harder to get parts for that old of a bike. Not that you cant get them but it does get harder to find some things. Whereas the YZ250X is a production bike so any upgrade or replacement part is more readily available. I do like working on my bikes but I have had old bikes and vehicles in the past and finding parts I need for them becomes a bit of a hassle.
@@EarthSurferUSA ? There are no new KDXs. The point was that you can buy a used KDX for 2k or less. Those deals are still out there, you just have to search for them and be patient.
Nice video, as a guy that rides woods with my 250x I absolutely love it. I will say she eats spark plugs if you lug too much. I'm also not a fine tuner on carbs though. Also let me guess, your girl hates being told she needs to stand up more? 😂😂
Nice review. I am 58 and for me I like the idea of less is more with the Yamaha. Less things to go wrong, less things to break and a lower price of maintenance. Curious, how many hours you getting on your top end? I hear some people saying that if you're doing causal trail riding they are getting over 100hrs which seems crazy to me. Thanks for sharing my young friend. 🤘😎🏍
Thank you for the generous comment. You can easily get 100 hours on the top end on this bike. If you ride mostly trails and hard enduro, achieving 100 hours is more than doable. If you're in more wide open area and you have it in the power band or pinned more often, then I'd say change the top end a little sooner. This bike although it is very strong and plenty powerful it has a good power delivery. You can definitely ride it slow and ride it fast. In terms of its cost. It's really cheap. Plastics parts and pretty much everything in between are affordable compared to its European rivals. All in all, I'd highly recommend this bike. I will do an update video of things I like and dislike, but if I had to do it again. I'd buy this bike every time.
As long as you don't have abnormal wear, rebuilding the top end is dependent on the ring end gap, that is specified in the owners manual. Log your hours until you reach the end gap limit, or a once a year program is pretty good if you ride a lot. If the gap shows half the wear allowed is used up, you can double the hours from there, (for example).
Have you thought about a flywheel on it to help with slow speed riding? I’ve thought about one of these bikes but thought it might be a little too much when you open it up.
I have considered a heavier flywheel, which will help with slow speed lugging. There are a couple of things like an APEX head, heavier flywheel and changing the gearing down on this bike makes it a very capable, hard enduro / slow trail bike. The bike definitely has a lot of power, but it's quite linear. I don't think it's too much nor too little. I will do another video talking about all this and what I would and wouldnt change.
Yes they changed the ratio after 2022 so 2023 and 2024 are 32:1. But they jet these bikes from the factory based off the ratios in the manual so there is no notable difference across all the years when it comes to oil ratio. If you ever change your jetting to a different oil ratio then run that ratio but if you run stock jetting the manual recommendation is always spot on.
32:1 has been the standard for decades. Use it with a good oil. Klotz supertechniplate and Motul Kart GP 2-t oil have been dyno tested for durability to be the best, by friends of mine, (Quick Draw 2-stroke marine racing engines), and I trust their work because I know they are sharp guys. you will find much better performance, and gas mileage if you jet the carb well. The YZ's are sickly rich off the showroom floor.
@@nathangraham100 If you are ever in Michigan, check out the "CCC trails". Some tight stuff like "Tin Cup", but I like the 3rd gear sand whoops and berms,like the 40 mile loop "little O". Lodging and good places to eat nearby.
No, the KTM still uses oil injection with a separate oil tank located above the gas tank cap. So you do NOT have to mix gas. There is no lack of technology with the KTM that's why people love them so much. I love them. They are a great bike. Just remember, if your bike has an oil injector to routinely check, it's functioning correctly other wise your going to have a serious problem.
The ktm sx and xc models are pre mix tbi and the xcw are oil injection and tbi that’s facts the ktm Xc is closer to an sx than ever and the xcw is the trail hard enduro style with spring forks as well for 2024 only the sx keeps the air fork
@mostachiocam1598 Yes, she does. She rides the klx140rf. It's an amazing bike. I made a video recently of it. It's the perfect bike for someone on the shorter side. The only downside to the air cooled bikes is they are heavy but she got used to picking it up if she tipped over. The whole klx line up is amazing.
First please pardon my arrogance but here's my current situation. I'm in my mid forties. 5'10 and around 200ish pounds. I've been riding a 07 CBR600RR for the past 4 years. I understand clutch and throttle control but haven't ridden dirt bikes since I was a teenager. I'm finding myself getting bored with riding streets and having friends who trail ride, I find myself wanting a dirt bike. Is the YZ250X a good idea for me? I don't do wheelies and haven't even really practiced riding wheelies. Just don't want a bike that is going to be intimidating. What are your thoughts?
I'm 52 and I raced a bit back in the 90s. I own a 22 yz250x for my boy to race. I would not recommend this bike because you said you don't want something intimidating. Trying to find a the right 2 stroke for single track is tough. Some bikes I would recommend considering is Beta 200rr, Beta xtrainer, or ktm/husqvarna/gasgas 250/300 tpi. I have not rode any of ktm family tpi bikes but hear they are mild. Stay away from ktm family with a carburetor. If your open to 4 stroke, I recommend the reverse cylinder yamaha 250fx. Add a fan for slow riding.
@@DeanB44 I don't think the YZ250 is intimidating. It has a smooth power curve (weak at lower rpm's which i fixed), and stock, is probably the most tame 250 MX bike I ever had. My 97 KX250 though, was a mid range monster. But great in the whooped pout single tack,--with some 2-stroke clutch skill.
$8200 otd NOT including sales tax because it varies so widely from state to state. So just add your states sales tax rate. Find a dealer that sells close to msrp out the door. So many dealers add outrageous docking fees and extra fees. I called some places that gave me an otd price of $10,500
They all look like that today because of the faster 4-stroke makes tracks faster. We don't remember that we had 12" of suspension travel, before we had big jumps,---because the tracks were rough. Put a road racing engine in a dirt bike, and the tracks become more like road racing courses. The speeds are faster, and the skills are different. But we were more skilled on the 2-strokes, because we had to be. I can see a day coming where a dirt bike is so easy to ride, (like sittng in a lazy boy recliner chair),--and we will all be bragging about how much skill we have.
I ride a 2020 yz250x mostly in single track from fast stuff to technical very slow rocky and also log hopping and mtn climbing. Been riding since 1965
Raced motocross and enduro for years. This bike with stock carb, mine jetted to 1000 ft elevation is incredible. I use my air fuel mixture screw to adjust to the various elevations I ride. I recently bought a thumb air fuel mixture screw and idle screw. I know my settings for tuns out from 500 ft elevation to 9000 ft elevation. I am sure Colorado single track at 25k ft elevation same jetting it would still run fine with turning air screw out more. My Cass probably 3 turns out. Easy to adjust and just blip the throttle from idle you will know when your good. Like 40 secs you will have it. Than next time you ride 1000 ft I just turn it back to 7/8 turn out.
I run 50:1 ratio full synthetic and get a little spuge of oil. Better than none. I also put a little heavier fly wheel on it. Had 40 some bikes and this has been my favorite since day one. Yamaha builds reliable bikes. I also changed out coolant to engine ice because it helped my 4 strokes from boiling. I also 1 finger clutch and front brake. Bothe levers cut down. Suspension is superb one you set your sag. Corners great and stand 90% of the time. Try to never take my feet off the pegs while moving.
Very useful information. Hopefully people who live in higher elevation areas see this comment! Great information, Thanks for sharing!
Just run a lower flash point pre mix. To get rid of that spooge. Everyone runs oils with 500 degree flash point. Just like your jetting. Run a pre mix that fits your riding. Not mx or desert racing. Something 250 degree or lower. So it burns off instead of accumulates
Can you share your jetting specs for 1,000’ elevation? Thanks!
And man, the stock bike is so rich, I was surprised it did not foul plugs often. I have never ruined expensive Jersey's before, because of oil droplets coming from the stinger, and landing on the backs of my jerseys. I raised the compression by lowering the cylinder which helped a lot, and i am still working on nice, clean crisp jetting.
@@dormantmenace Just jet the carb correctly. Keep premix with a good oil, at 32:1. These YZ's are sold---super rich.
Don’t forget the cheap OEM parts. I got a complete OEM Top end kit for my bike for $120 shipped
I have the 24 run stock jetting and mix 32:1 I rise really rocky PA ST in 3rd and the bike does well and when I get into the open stuff I can keep the YZ out front and it sounds and feels awesome.
I'm also running a 22.5mm offset tree and it turns as good as any bikes I have been on...
I port (with a CNC mill, and hand finishing) and stroke small 2-stroke engines for a living. If you don't mind using 100 octane fuel, (I mix expensive 110 with local alky free 90 REC gas 50/50.), you can lower your cylinder by getting rid of the cylinder base gasket (seal it well with a very good sealer that resists gasoline), to get the exhaust port lower to better match the lower rpm pipes, for more low end power. Matching pipe and porting is the main key to 2-stroke performance. I run stock gearing still (I usually gear down a bit and will when I wear this set out), and weigh 200 lbs. I can now "short shift" through the gears with no clutch (just let off the gas a bit to shift), and the engine keeps pulling well, and not too explosive. I did not put a tach on it, but I don't think I lost much top end over-rev. Maybe 500 rpm. FMF Gnarley pipe with V-force reeds with no aluminum spacer plate,-and a lower cylinder, makes the engine a great off road mill.
I would expect the stock YZ 250X pipe to work well with the set up also, as I believe it is a lower rpm tuned pipe than the MX version.
Great info! Thank you so much!
Great video! the Yz250x = big smile on everyone's face who tries it
I have an ‘18 Yz250x. I’m 50 yrs old and have owned many different bikes through the years. The 250x is a great all around bike. I just installed an apex MX head on it and it is amazing. Great bike!
That's awesome! The Apex MX is on my list of upgrades. I'd encourage anyone who has this bike to get the Apex MX. You made a great choice.
Great video and I agree with everything you said. I have a 2022 YZ250X with a FMF Gnarly and shorty exhaust with a Lectron carburetor. Perfect for any condition I have encountered.
That's awesome! I do love the bike. I plan on putting an FMF Gnarly on mine as well. It definitely increases the cool factor and performance.
Thanks for making this video as I think many wonder if the 250X is a good choice for hard enduro stuff. I've owned a KTM 300, YZ 250X and Beta 250RR in the last few years. The YZ is not a good hard enduro bike. Its clutch is not precise, it turns poorly, has a wide turn radius, it's top heavy and has a higher seat height compared to the Beta. The motor needs a flywheel weight and runs better in the slow stuff with a modded head. It comes stock with tall gearing. The lack of a kickstart isn't a big deal because it starts easily but if you lose position on a climb because you didn't have the button, then that adds to how imprecise the YZ is in technical riding. Hard enduro about much more than the bike not overheating. It's about being able to place the bike exactly where you need it and precise controls make that possible. I did love my YZ in the straight and fast stuff. Super stable. Love the parts availability and price. It has its niche but it's not hard enduro.
I just installed the 2010 YZ450F 22.5mm offset trees "with some work" and the X turns just as good as any bike now My cost was 49.00
Previous bike was a '23 125X... recently went to a '24 250XC and Id highly disagree... after 40 hours im trading her in and going back to the YZ. I've rode them back to back and would take to 250X any day... handling and suspension are incredibly superior to the current KTM frame. Rode a '24 250X back to back with mine and would choose the YZ any day.
Are you sure you are talking about the 250X because it sounds like you are talking about just a normal motocross yz250 or 250F/FX.
@@Kevin-Anderson104 Yes, I owned a 2016 YZ 250X.
Great Review dude, thank you so much!
I have a 21 yz250x and I feel its a great do it all bike thats not bad at anything but not great at anything either. Its perfect for going slow through the woods and its fun and capable on the track. For the price, reliability and ease of maintenance its hard to beat. I have never had any problems over heating and running 32:1 still have the original plug in it with 40 hours and have never touched the carb either. Half those hours is slow technical and the other half is track.
Perfect for hauling ass to.
Sounds like you know what you're talking about. Thanks for the vid
It can't keep up to 450's on a modern fast MX track. It is too tall to corner well, (higher than any 4-stroke I have sat on. It may be the tallest bike made today, and taller than ever before), and the newer thin seat will not let you lower it much there, so you have to take some off the suspension. At least 1.5" total lower is pretty good for anybody under 5'10" tall.
The motor is tuned for higher rpm (the X not as much with a lower rpm pipe), and is terrible for the woods. If you want a great bike, this is not it for any discipline. But you can make it into a great bike for anything off road, sans racing 450's on a modern fast MX track,--like this track. I never had to do so much work on a bike to make it great for something. But now, it is a lower rpm short shifting monster that corners well, with modified plastic to get rid of the Batman art look. :)
I'm looking at picking up a 250X and had wondered about its luggability, so thank you for making this video! But I have to ask, why this as opposed to a KDX 200 which you can find for a 1/4 of the price? Even with mods like swapping with KX suspension, the Kawi is far, far cheaper. I'm torn between the two options.
So as much as I love Kawasaki and I really wanted a KDX. The main reason I got the YZ250x over a KDX is, parts. Its only going to get harder to get parts for that old of a bike. Not that you cant get them but it does get harder to find some things. Whereas the YZ250X is a production bike so any upgrade or replacement part is more readily available. I do like working on my bikes but I have had old bikes and vehicles in the past and finding parts I need for them becomes a bit of a hassle.
@@nathangraham100 Good point, thanks!
You can buy a new KDX 200 for 2 grand? Yea, in 1985 (before the 1986 production rule raised the prices).
@@EarthSurferUSA ? There are no new KDXs. The point was that you can buy a used KDX for 2k or less. Those deals are still out there, you just have to search for them and be patient.
Nice video, as a guy that rides woods with my 250x I absolutely love it. I will say she eats spark plugs if you lug too much. I'm also not a fine tuner on carbs though.
Also let me guess, your girl hates being told she needs to stand up more? 😂😂
Never fouled a plug on my 2020. Run 1000ft elevation up to 1400ft. Just adjust air fuel mixture.
Nice review. I am 58 and for me I like the idea of less is more with the Yamaha. Less things to go wrong, less things to break and a lower price of maintenance. Curious, how many hours you getting on your top end? I hear some people saying that if you're doing causal trail riding they are getting over 100hrs which seems crazy to me. Thanks for sharing my young friend. 🤘😎🏍
Thank you for the generous comment. You can easily get 100 hours on the top end on this bike. If you ride mostly trails and hard enduro, achieving 100 hours is more than doable. If you're in more wide open area and you have it in the power band or pinned more often, then I'd say change the top end a little sooner. This bike although it is very strong and plenty powerful it has a good power delivery. You can definitely ride it slow and ride it fast. In terms of its cost. It's really cheap. Plastics parts and pretty much everything in between are affordable compared to its European rivals. All in all, I'd highly recommend this bike. I will do an update video of things I like and dislike, but if I had to do it again. I'd buy this bike every time.
As long as you don't have abnormal wear, rebuilding the top end is dependent on the ring end gap, that is specified in the owners manual. Log your hours until you reach the end gap limit, or a once a year program is pretty good if you ride a lot. If the gap shows half the wear allowed is used up, you can double the hours from there, (for example).
Have you thought about a flywheel on it to help with slow speed riding? I’ve thought about one of these bikes but thought it might be a little too much when you open it up.
I have considered a heavier flywheel, which will help with slow speed lugging. There are a couple of things like an APEX head, heavier flywheel and changing the gearing down on this bike makes it a very capable, hard enduro / slow trail bike. The bike definitely has a lot of power, but it's quite linear. I don't think it's too much nor too little. I will do another video talking about all this and what I would and wouldnt change.
I have same bike, the Manuel says to run 30:1 after break in..we’ll mines a 22 maybe the 24 is different
Yes they changed the ratio after 2022 so 2023 and 2024 are 32:1. But they jet these bikes from the factory based off the ratios in the manual so there is no notable difference across all the years when it comes to oil ratio. If you ever change your jetting to a different oil ratio then run that ratio but if you run stock jetting the manual recommendation is always spot on.
32:1 has been the standard for decades. Use it with a good oil. Klotz supertechniplate and Motul Kart GP 2-t oil have been dyno tested for durability to be the best, by friends of mine, (Quick Draw 2-stroke marine racing engines), and I trust their work because I know they are sharp guys. you will find much better performance, and gas mileage if you jet the carb well. The YZ's are sickly rich off the showroom floor.
where are these trails at when they seem wider and sort of groomed? NCMP?
The tight trails are NCMP. The wide trails that are fast are at The Ridge MX in Sanford NC. There whole loop is 5 and a half miles long.
@@nathangraham100 thanks for the response. I love the ridge trails. trying out Weaver tomorrow
The tighter and rougher the trail the better. Stand on pegs and turn the throttle.
@@nathangraham100 If you are ever in Michigan, check out the "CCC trails". Some tight stuff like "Tin Cup", but I like the 3rd gear sand whoops and berms,like the 40 mile loop "little O". Lodging and good places to eat nearby.
I thought KTM went back to pre mix with the TBI. NO ?
No, the KTM still uses oil injection with a separate oil tank located above the gas tank cap. So you do NOT have to mix gas. There is no lack of technology with the KTM that's why people love them so much. I love them. They are a great bike. Just remember, if your bike has an oil injector to routinely check, it's functioning correctly other wise your going to have a serious problem.
@@nathangraham100..you pre.mix the XC, the XCW is injected
The ktm sx and xc models are pre mix tbi and the xcw are oil injection and tbi that’s facts the ktm
Xc is closer to an sx than ever and the xcw is the trail hard enduro style with spring forks as well for 2024 only the sx keeps the air fork
@@nathangraham100 Which is why thy have had crank bearing problems.
Well I learned a lot about this guys life and nothing about the YZX oh well…
Bro living the dream, we should take notes
Does your wife ride a 140? Would love your thoughts on that bike. Thinking of getting one as a companion bike
@mostachiocam1598 Yes, she does. She rides the klx140rf. It's an amazing bike. I made a video recently of it. It's the perfect bike for someone on the shorter side. The only downside to the air cooled bikes is they are heavy but she got used to picking it up if she tipped over. The whole klx line up is amazing.
First please pardon my arrogance but here's my current situation. I'm in my mid forties. 5'10 and around 200ish pounds.
I've been riding a 07 CBR600RR for the past 4 years. I understand clutch and throttle control but haven't ridden dirt bikes since I was a teenager. I'm finding myself getting bored with riding streets and having friends who trail ride, I find myself wanting a dirt bike. Is the YZ250X a good idea for me? I don't do wheelies and haven't even really practiced riding wheelies. Just don't want a bike that is going to be intimidating. What are your thoughts?
I'm 52 and I raced a bit back in the 90s. I own a 22 yz250x for my boy to race. I would not recommend this bike because you said you don't want something intimidating. Trying to find a the right 2 stroke for single track is tough. Some bikes I would recommend considering is Beta 200rr, Beta xtrainer, or ktm/husqvarna/gasgas 250/300 tpi. I have not rode any of ktm family tpi bikes but hear they are mild. Stay away from ktm family with a carburetor. If your open to 4 stroke, I recommend the reverse cylinder yamaha 250fx. Add a fan for slow riding.
@@DeanB44 I don't think the YZ250 is intimidating. It has a smooth power curve (weak at lower rpm's which i fixed), and stock, is probably the most tame 250 MX bike I ever had. My 97 KX250 though, was a mid range monster. But great in the whooped pout single tack,--with some 2-stroke clutch skill.
What was the otd price for the bike?
$8200 otd NOT including sales tax because it varies so widely from state to state. So just add your states sales tax rate. Find a dealer that sells close to msrp out the door. So many dealers add outrageous docking fees and extra fees. I called some places that gave me an otd price of $10,500
Keep your feet on the pegs !
The we and the yzx are awesome bikes
Start electronically
NCMP!!!
NCMP is the best!
I will never kick a bike over agian
And you should wear seat belts too. What little babies we have become. How "progressive'. :)
Whoooooly crap! How can anyone talk so much and say almost nothing?? You felt you were rambling? YYYYYEEEEEEESSSSSSSSS
No bumps on these tracks just jumps.
They all look like that today because of the faster 4-stroke makes tracks faster. We don't remember that we had 12" of suspension travel, before we had big jumps,---because the tracks were rough. Put a road racing engine in a dirt bike, and the tracks become more like road racing courses. The speeds are faster, and the skills are different. But we were more skilled on the 2-strokes, because we had to be. I can see a day coming where a dirt bike is so easy to ride, (like sittng in a lazy boy recliner chair),--and we will all be bragging about how much skill we have.