Mine will run on starting fluid, and is pumping fuel up to all the injectors. I Verified that by running it on starting fluid while i had the fittings on the injectors loose. ...I used a half a can, but never got fuel vapors or smoke from the exhaust. It ran clean on the fluid but would not run on fuel. My guess is the pump ain't putting out enough pressure to get throughthe injectors. What do you think? 1970 model case 580 construction king. Thank you.
I’ve got a 580b that pump is leaking and I’m going to have to remove and replace pump seals, I’m was wondering if there is anything special I need to do to keep pump in time if I can get it 180 degrees out of time or does it only mate to shaft one way? Thanks Tommy
i just made a video all about timing the same kind fuel pump on my dozer check it out here th-cam.com/video/LGJu6Sp5Zvg/w-d-xo.html the shaft on the pump has a timing mark that gets lined up with the matching mark on the timing gear shaft. yes you can install 180 out. from there you need the engine with no.1 piston at TDC and the timing window on the pump removed, and you index the entire pump so that the marks on the pump rotor and housing line up.
How did you put the injector back in correct me if I’m wrong but do you line up the flywheel top dead center and just get the marks in-line on the injector pump and she should be timed correctly?
Ya pretty much that should get you close enough to fire it up and in mine while it was running I barley loosened the flange bolts and it pulled itself into timing
👍🏻 I was thinking the same. Why doesn’t he clean it all up first. Someday you’ll get one & enjoy it. You know gunk makes a good engine cleaner, then maybe a hose will work. Would be a big improvement.
Good detailed explanation. I have a rebuild kit for mine that I bought in case I have to do the same. Looks like mostly o rings and washers. I tried to loosen the top cover one day for a look inside but one of the bolts felt like it was going to break, so I stopped. Perhaps I’ll have to do what you’ve done here someday. Good luck on the rebuild.
Good info. THANKS! However, I don't know how you or anyone can work on equipment without pressure washing first... very, very risky! Man! find one on facebook? or borrow your neighbors? HA! ....and BTW it's NOT a choke cable! It's the shut-off cable!
It's actually the choke and shutoff. And I'm well aware of the risk and did my best to clean around the area before I took anything loose but sometimes in field repairs can't be done in ideal conditions... Someday I'll have a nice shop building to work in and nice clean equipment but for now it is what it is.
Thanks for posting this. It was of great help in fixing the fuel leaking into the engine oil through the two seals on the drive shaft, inside the pump. Very informative! Thank-you Edit: the local AG store had some special pipe for slipping the seals on the shaft and plyer for compressing the seal for sliding the pump back on.
I did and I'll have another video out soon but I had the same problem when I got it all back together and ended up having to take it to a rebuild shop, it's all running good now.
Mine will run on starting fluid, and is pumping fuel up to all the injectors.
I Verified that by running it on starting fluid while i had the fittings on the injectors loose.
...I used a half a can, but never got fuel vapors or smoke from the exhaust. It ran clean on the fluid but would not run on fuel.
My guess is the pump ain't putting out enough pressure to get throughthe injectors.
What do you think?
1970 model case 580 construction king.
Thank you.
Sounds like it most likely the plastic flex ring went bad when you rebuild it get the all metal one from stanadyne
I’ve got a 580b that pump is leaking and I’m going to have to remove and replace pump seals, I’m was wondering if there is anything special I need to do to keep pump in time if I can get it 180 degrees out of time or does it only mate to shaft one way? Thanks Tommy
i just made a video all about timing the same kind fuel pump on my dozer check it out here
th-cam.com/video/LGJu6Sp5Zvg/w-d-xo.html
the shaft on the pump has a timing mark that gets lined up with the matching mark on the timing gear shaft. yes you can install 180 out.
from there you need the engine with no.1 piston at TDC and the timing window on the pump removed, and you index the entire pump so that the marks on the pump rotor and housing line up.
How did you put the injector back in correct me if I’m wrong but do you line up the flywheel top dead center and just get the marks in-line on the injector pump and she should be timed correctly?
Ya pretty much that should get you close enough to fire it up and in mine while it was running I barley loosened the flange bolts and it pulled itself into timing
👍🏻 I was thinking the same. Why doesn’t he clean it all up first. Someday you’ll get one & enjoy it. You know gunk makes a good engine cleaner, then maybe a hose will work. Would be a big improvement.
Choke cable???? More like engine shut down I think!!!!!
@@GRTRanchadventures lol, im sure it does
Lol direct injection engine, no choke, you're right it just the kill switch, my bad.
Good detailed explanation. I have a rebuild kit for mine that I bought in case I have to do the same. Looks like mostly o rings and washers. I tried to loosen the top cover one day for a look inside but one of the bolts felt like it was going to break, so I stopped. Perhaps I’ll have to do what you’ve done here someday. Good luck on the rebuild.
Just wait, I broke some stuff taking mine apart
@@GRTRanchadventuresI'm chomping at the bit waiting to see what that was. ha ha
@@EverydayProjects should be out tomorrow
Good info. THANKS!
However, I don't know how you or anyone can work on equipment without pressure washing first... very, very risky! Man! find one on facebook? or borrow your neighbors? HA! ....and BTW it's NOT a choke cable! It's the shut-off cable!
It's actually the choke and shutoff.
And I'm well aware of the risk and did my best to clean around the area before I took anything loose but sometimes in field repairs can't be done in ideal conditions... Someday I'll have a nice shop building to work in and nice clean equipment but for now it is what it is.
Thanks for posting this. It was of great help in fixing the fuel leaking into the engine oil through the two seals on the drive shaft, inside the pump. Very informative! Thank-you
Edit: the local AG store had some special pipe for slipping the seals on the shaft and plyer for compressing the seal for sliding the pump back on.
Did you order a rebuild kit? where? thanks
I did and I'll have another video out soon but I had the same problem when I got it all back together and ended up having to take it to a rebuild shop, it's all running good now.