Hey man, I know this was posted 4 years ago, but my son and I have been building a 69 mustang, with a 289 out of a 65. I haven't been able to get the damn distributor dialed in until your video. Every other video left me with more questions than answers. Found your video last night, and our project started for the first time last night. Thanks man!
Converted my 1971 Mustang Coupe from a 2 barrel intake to a 4 barrel and forgot to set the timing to TDC before removing things. Was backfiring and sputtering until my brother and I found this video, got it running properly in 30 minutes thanks to you! AWESOME!
Instead of fiddling around trying to get it to drop in the oil pump shaft just turn the crank until it drops down then turn the crank back to 10 degrees, so much easier.
Thanks for the refresher course, I remembered the steps, But forgot the position on the rotor, You made it straight to the point without all the selling products the way I like it, Really simple.
Omg!!!! Very simple and to the point. A co worker actually sent me this video knowing that I was having trouble starting my car. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you a million.
Yes, good video.👍👍 Manually set the crank and then tune the cap right too it with the pen light on Coil negative to battery positive . 5:55 Tap sliping the oil pump around actually works too. You just got to remember to return to your mark. I did a ford 460 today the exact same way Exquisite video knowledge for all ol'fords, good job
Great video! 4:15 instead of playing with it, just bump the starter once and it'll drop right down. Just read that tip in my '66 service manual and it worked perfect!
Doing that will also move the timing off 10° before TDC. You'll notice in the video after he gets it on the compression stroke and sets it at the 10° mark, the engine doesn't rotate again until they start it. The oil pump is also driven off the distributor, so bumping the engine doesn't make the oil shaft spin, but instead the cam gear rotates. The idea he shows in the video is to force the oil pump to rotate to match the rest of the engine, not vice-versa.
Thanks so much for showing how you had to fiddle with it to get it to seat completely. I had a hard time getting mine to seat, and now I understand why.
I was going to say man you should be a professor of car engines because you explain so well and clearly, but then you said in class and I was like ok, makes perfect sense. He is a teacher after all.
You prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Ernest Solomon i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for this. I don't work on Fords. I'm a GM man. Working on a 289 that someone screwed up putting the dist in. Vacuum advance is hitting the thermostat housing and it needs to go even more to time it.
Great Video have a 64 Mustang over in the UK and wanted to check the timing as it developed a misfire hard to start and popping through the carb. Yet to try it but great detailed video 👍🏼
Thanks a bunch for making this video!! As a mechanically inclined guy with little Automotive experience this was perfect!! And I didn’t need a set of fancy tools. :)
Thanks. My brother changed some stuff on my car due to no start condition turned out to be a fusable link wire. He changed everything cause he was helping. So your video helped me a lot. I'm a painter not a mechanic lol.
So where do I set my marks if there is no numbers of degree? It says TDC and then slashes after but no numbers? Love the video extremely informative but just a little stuck with this. Thanks for your time.
I see what he's trying to do it's a good way of finding top TC of the compression stroke if you go past the timing mark make sure you turn it back a little bit farther and then turn it back to where you want the timing to be set which 10° is pretty good then when you put the distributor in and the rotor don't line up it's no big deal just estimate how much farther the rotors going to turn turn it back to the desired amount and all you do is rotate the engine backwards until the distributor falls into place then rotate it back to 10° and see if her roller lines up to where it should be normally the rotor doesn't go straight to the rear but a little bit to your right which is the left side of the engine then all you have to do watch your points turn the distributor until the points just start to open and you're right on top and where you want the timing mark to be I've done many engines many and sometimes I don't even have to move distributor when I put the timing light on it. PS I learned a lot of tricks from working on VW just valves set and timing..
Getting recommendations for time in the same engine without a vacuum advance. It’s locked out. We have it turned that way and I wanted to know if I can get all out of it get.
Thanks. Not sure just how to use every bit of everything you did, but I have done everything except put a light to it which seems key. My 65 289 is a beast but won't stay running. I will try what I can remember.
Everything is good and enjoyable! I have never interacted with such old people - V8, but I have marks on the crankshaft pulley in a different place. motor 1966
Definitely an early 289 before the government regulated PCV system. Note the breather tube sticking up from the timing cover. It stands for independence! Love it!
Oh wow this is amazing. Would this timing procedure apply to a 1973 302? My engine is shaking like crazy during idle, back fires, and dies as soon as its placed in gear.
Excellent explanation. Thank you! One question: how tie my distributor should be? I got a Ford F-100 1972 and the distributor is a little bit loose. Btw, it doesn't start. I guess because it is not timed, maybe? Thanks for your help.
It's interesting that if you Google 289 firing order you can find images that show the no.1 position in 3 or 4 different places but the firing order is always the same. In my case l tried putting the number one lead at the 12 o'clock position and the engine wouldn't start and back fired through the carb. After some investigation l discovered the the no. 1 position was actually at the 3 o'clock position relative to the video here. Different distributors maybe?
Outstanding! thanks you I didn't know about the the cylinder numbers stamped. Question could the crank shaft be moved to get the distributor to drop in vice stabbing it over and over? Again thanks a lot learn something new!
Pretty nice to bring back stuff I learned in automotive school. I know this distributor had points. With the turning of the unit to get the light off, on a point less distributor do that light matter?
Mark, I also have watched your video numerous times. My problem is the tang on the oil pump drops over to one side which does not allow the distributor to drop down even if it may be aligned. I’ve attempted to pack assembly lube around it but once the shaft touches it pushes it over. I’m leery of bumping the engine in fear of loosing the 12 bdc. Have you ever witnessed this? Karl - Portland
I’m suspecting the oil pump shaft is not seated with the pump. Unfortunately the keeper is positioned to allow that to happen but won’t allow removal fro the top.
This last time I put my distributor in, the rotary is facing the front, it usually faced the direction of the master cylinder. My question is, should it. Cause now my car is over heating and that's the only difference I can think of.
hopefully this finds you, i have followed this video multiple times. we have a 68 Mustang 289. when doing the test light method i wasn't able to get the light to shut off, only slightly dimmer. i set the point gap correctly. in fact the point is new.. any help would be great
When you did it did you turn the engine slowly until that rub block on the points was exactly on one of those corners of that cam that rubs against it that opens and closes the points ? If not that's probably what the problem is and the gap is not right . After you tighten the screw recheck the gap because it can change .
I've seen many videos on timing. This one is it. Borrowed the sunpro timing light from my dad and will do adjust my timing in 2 weeks....!?? I have to work 12's and perhaps more hours for the next two weeks.
I have been fighting my 1966 289 4v for 3 weeks. I've had it started twice, but it idles fast 1400rpm and I can't slow it down. I've replaced the power valve that I noticed was leaking. I can get it to cough and sputter when I preset the timing to be fully open on the distributor cam while at TDC. I present the timing to 6 degrees as you showed in the video just this morning, but no luck. to get it there, I had to set the distributor on a different (more advanced) tooth on the cam gear. I checked and I have spark. I checked I was on the compression stroke. I have had 2 carb shops tell me that the Autolite 4100 carb is working fine and settings are correct. Any suggestion what to try? BTW, when I set the distrib on different tooth, I rotate the crank by hand and it will drop in place within a 90 degree rotation, then I crank it back to my timing setting. Works great, no banging the distrub up and down.
Hey Mark, I have a 351 windsor efi and timing is throwing me off! When I get #1 on compression my timing mark is is 10 degrees atdc #1 on the dizzy is lined up perfect! But when I check this thing with a timing light its 16 to 20 atdc! The more I advance toward 10 btdc it starts to idle way to hi and my headers start to glow red hot quick after start up! When I have it set to where the motor seems happy header elbows dont get as hot but still getting red at at collection of tubes close to the shortie flange were it hooks up to exhaust especially when I raise the RPMs tubes will heat back up! Im lost!
Mark, Great video. I have a question. I went through your process on my 70 Boss 302 with a dual point distributor. The light on my test light was dimly lite all the time and when the points opened I got a bright light on the test light. I am wondering why I have a constant dim light all the time? Does it have something to do with the dual points? Thanks
shelbygt350r I have a 70 Boss 302 in my F-150. I don’t think my distributer has dual points though. The timing is terrible right now, and I’m hoping this video helps. I don’t know if I have any numbers or pointer though. We’ll find out today!
Please help! My uncle and I put a 302 in my 66 mustang. Everything was top dead center, distributer on 1 (mine ignition 1 doesn't point straight back like yours more back right) never did the 10 or 12 degree thing or the light test/timing gun. It starts, needs a new carb, and has a misfire. Do I have to redue the timing? The distributor? If my timing is off would that cause my car to shake when trying to accelerate? Car shakes really bad when going 35 or is that do to the carb/possible misfire? Thank you!!!!!
I have a 79 Lincoln continental 4.0 6.6 L. Could you please walk me through how to do the top dead center procedure on a distributor without points. I believe my distributor is an electronic distributor
This would be the same way you do an older 302 wouldn't it? I have a 68 cougar with the 302 that I need to set the timing on and it'll be my first time just trying to figure it out
I know this vid has been out for a while. Couple of questions. If you dont set the initial timing by use of the damper, could you get the "12" degrees of timing by turning" advancing" the timing at the distributer? Assuming there is enough room to turn it far enough. Secondly, does it matter where the rotor is pointing as long as you use that spot on the cap for your number 1 cylinder? Btw, very informative video!
Hey man, I know this was posted 4 years ago, but my son and I have been building a 69 mustang, with a 289 out of a 65. I haven't been able to get the damn distributor dialed in until your video. Every other video left me with more questions than answers. Found your video last night, and our project started for the first time last night. Thanks man!
Awesome!
This is wholesome
Set point gap before setting static timeing.
This is the most direct, easy to understand videos on this subject. You have a good way of clearly communicating. Thanks, you should do more!
I’ve never seen that method but damn that was cool. I’ve just never thought about it that way… It makes perfect sense though. Thanks for sharing.
This is by far the best video to understand timing in a small block ford.
I totally agree!
Converted my 1971 Mustang Coupe from a 2 barrel intake to a 4 barrel and forgot to set the timing to TDC before removing things.
Was backfiring and sputtering until my brother and I found this video, got it running properly in 30 minutes thanks to you! AWESOME!
Instead of fiddling around trying to get it to drop in the oil pump shaft just turn the crank until it drops down then turn the crank back to 10 degrees, so much easier.
Thanks for the refresher course, I remembered the steps, But forgot the position on the rotor, You made it straight to the point without all the selling products the way I like it, Really simple.
This is no doubt the best form of teaching I have seen on distributor timing. A+
Thank you for this video, direct and straight to the point, perfect
Omg!!!! Very simple and to the point. A co worker actually sent me this video knowing that I was having trouble starting my car. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you a million.
Yes, good video.👍👍
Manually set the crank and then tune the cap right too it with the pen light on Coil negative to battery positive .
5:55
Tap sliping the oil pump around actually works too.
You just got to remember to return to your mark.
I did a ford 460 today the exact same way
Exquisite video knowledge for all ol'fords, good job
Great video! 4:15 instead of playing with it, just bump the starter once and it'll drop right down. Just read that tip in my '66 service manual and it worked perfect!
Good idea just earth it out yeah
Doing that will also move the timing off 10° before TDC.
You'll notice in the video after he gets it on the compression stroke and sets it at the 10° mark, the engine doesn't rotate again until they start it.
The oil pump is also driven off the distributor, so bumping the engine doesn't make the oil shaft spin, but instead the cam gear rotates. The idea he shows in the video is to force the oil pump to rotate to match the rest of the engine, not vice-versa.
Thanks so much for showing how you had to fiddle with it to get it to seat completely. I had a hard time getting mine to seat, and now I understand why.
Been struggling with my 67 289, after your video I’m feeling confident I will have it dialed in tomorrow!
I was going to say man you should be a professor of car engines because you explain so well and clearly, but then you said in class and I was like ok, makes perfect sense. He is a teacher after all.
Never seen anyone set timing like that. Thanks for the tip.
This video really cleared up my confusion when setting my timing. Best and clearest video on this I found so far.
Great vid. Easy to understand. Very helpful.
Thank you. I remember replacing the distributor on a 302 and having a heck of a time getting it installed.
Helped a lot with timing of my 289 1965 in the Czech Republic. Running well. Many thanks 😉
Perfect video, thank you so much for the excellent explanation on Ford SB timing and ignition.Thanks to you I finally got my 302 running.
I've been struggling for last few weeks to get my f100 started after changing push rods lifter, tryed this started first time thanks🙂
Did you need to use a timing light?
@@dreamingcode The trucks started that well since I haven't had to put timing light on.
Great Video!! thanks for posting and sharing your experiences.
Where have you been all this time.........it’s a lost art to put to explain the firing order on a car....excellent ,, excellent excellent work....
Thank you for the nice words.
@@marklennon1 does this work on electronic ignition?
You prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Nicholas Brentley Instablaster ;)
@Ernest Solomon i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
simple, straight, understandable. Thanks for posting!
I've watched this a dozen times and you are a genius!
Thanks for this. I don't work on Fords. I'm a GM man. Working on a 289 that someone screwed up putting the dist in. Vacuum advance is hitting the thermostat housing and it needs to go even more to time it.
Great Video have a 64 Mustang over in the UK and wanted to check the timing as it developed a misfire hard to start and popping through the carb. Yet to try it but great detailed video 👍🏼
I'm excited to try this my self. Thank you
Best tuning video I’ve watched!
Thanks a bunch for making this video!! As a mechanically inclined guy with little Automotive experience this was perfect!! And I didn’t need a set of fancy tools. :)
Thanks. My brother changed some stuff on my car due to no start condition turned out to be a fusable link wire. He changed everything cause he was helping. So your video helped me a lot. I'm a painter not a mechanic lol.
Awesome video man.
Best video on you tube about this subject by far.
Excellent!! Best one ive seen on timeing
thank you! This is the best video on setting the timing!
So where do I set my marks if there is no numbers of degree? It says TDC and then slashes after but no numbers? Love the video extremely informative but just a little stuck with this. Thanks for your time.
I see what he's trying to do it's a good way of finding top TC of the compression stroke if you go past the timing mark make sure you turn it back a little bit farther and then turn it back to where you want the timing to be set which 10° is pretty good then when you put the distributor in and the rotor don't line up it's no big deal just estimate how much farther the rotors going to turn turn it back to the desired amount and all you do is rotate the engine backwards until the distributor falls into place then rotate it back to 10° and see if her roller lines up to where it should be normally the rotor doesn't go straight to the rear but a little bit to your right which is the left side of the engine then all you have to do watch your points turn the distributor until the points just start to open and you're right on top and where you want the timing mark to be I've done many engines many and sometimes I don't even have to move distributor when I put the timing light on it. PS I learned a lot of tricks from working on VW just valves set and timing..
Getting recommendations for time in the same engine without a vacuum advance. It’s locked out. We have it turned that way and I wanted to know if I can get all out of it get.
Excellent video, thanks.
Best how to video ever! Thanks.
Great instruction. Right to the point. Thank you.
You are an ACE!🏺♠️
This video helped me so much. I finally got my Boss 302 started and timed and I did it on almost the first try! Thanks you!
Thanks. Not sure just how to use every bit of everything you did, but I have done everything except put a light to it which seems key. My 65 289 is a beast but won't stay running. I will try what I can remember.
thanks for the video. never seen timing done that way.very helpfull !
Everything is good and enjoyable! I have never interacted with such old people - V8, but I have marks on the crankshaft pulley in a different place. motor 1966
Excellent video thank you
Thank You Sir! Brought my ‘72 Bronco back to life!! ;-D
I3adme awesome!
Yeah buddy good job showing use how to do it! Super easy and simple! Great job again, thank you so much!!!!!!!
Great video.
You are the Man......................Perfect!
use a 1/4" long shaft hex and turn the pump, then drop it back in.
neat trick with timing by using the points open/close with a test light not a timing light.
Thanks. Cool to find that out.
I have a 260 long block I'm getting ready to install in my 62 Mercury Meteor. Your video will definitely help me get it started quickly. Thanks again!
Good video for newbies. You and I are likely related. Both ford guys ,LOL.
Definitely an early 289 before the government regulated PCV system. Note the breather tube sticking up from the timing cover. It stands for independence! Love it!
Awesome 👌...
Thank you for making this Video...
Best timing video ever
Great video
Great video , thanks
Oh wow this is amazing. Would this timing procedure apply to a 1973 302? My engine is shaking like crazy during idle, back fires, and dies as soon as its placed in gear.
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
One question: how tie my distributor should be? I got a Ford F-100 1972 and the distributor is a little bit loose. Btw, it doesn't start. I guess because it is not timed, maybe?
Thanks for your help.
Well done
Very well explained.
Salud.
It's interesting that if you Google 289 firing order you can find images that show the no.1 position in 3 or 4 different places but the firing order is always the same. In my case l tried putting the number one lead at the 12 o'clock position and the engine wouldn't start and back fired through the carb. After some investigation l discovered the the no. 1 position was actually at the 3 o'clock position relative to the video here. Different distributors maybe?
Outstanding! thanks you I didn't know about the the cylinder numbers stamped. Question could the crank shaft be moved to get the distributor to drop in vice stabbing it over and over? Again thanks a lot learn something new!
Not an once of fat on this video. My guy top notch informative vid, I commend you.
Thank you very much!! great tutorial video!!
That router should be pointing approximately 1 o’clock position just like to Cleveland engine👍🏼
Pretty nice to bring back stuff I learned in automotive school. I know this distributor had points. With the turning of the unit to get the light off, on a point less distributor do that light matter?
What do I do if my test light doesn't go off when I rotate the distributor?
You ever figure out the issue? Mine did the same thing
@@drakechalmers5650 trying to remember. I took it to a shop and they said they had to rebuild the distributor.
I use a paper towel waded up and to hold pressure .
First try nice good job sir
Wow learnt a lot from this. Thanks
Oye, con un destornillador de pala puedes ubicar en su sitio la ranura de la bomba de aceite.
The Rokguitarstar said it all!!!!!!!
Thank you!!!! Great Video!!!!
Been doing it this way forever, best way especially if you just did a rebuild
Mark, I also have watched your video numerous times. My problem is the tang on the oil pump drops over to one side which does not allow the distributor to drop down even if it may be aligned. I’ve attempted to pack assembly lube around it but once the shaft touches it pushes it over. I’m leery of bumping the engine in fear of loosing the 12 bdc.
Have you ever witnessed this?
Karl - Portland
I’m suspecting the oil pump shaft is not seated with the pump. Unfortunately the keeper is positioned to allow that to happen but won’t allow removal fro the top.
Been doing it this way forever, best way especially if you just did a rebuild,
This last time I put my distributor in, the rotary is facing the front, it usually faced the direction of the master cylinder. My question is, should it. Cause now my car is over heating and that's the only difference I can think of.
Great vid. I had to watch a few times. So is a timing light not necessarily needed to set the timing?
hopefully this finds you, i have followed this video multiple times. we have a 68 Mustang 289. when doing the test light method i wasn't able to get the light to shut off, only slightly dimmer. i set the point gap correctly. in fact the point is new.. any help would be great
When you did it did you turn the engine slowly until that rub block on the points was exactly on one of those corners of that cam that rubs against it that opens and closes the points ? If not that's probably what the problem is and the gap is not right . After you tighten the screw recheck the gap because it can change .
Good share
I've seen many videos on timing. This one is it. Borrowed the sunpro timing light from my dad and will do adjust my timing in 2 weeks....!?? I have to work 12's and perhaps more hours for the next two weeks.
I have been fighting my 1966 289 4v for 3 weeks. I've had it started twice, but it idles fast 1400rpm and I can't slow it down. I've replaced the power valve that I noticed was leaking. I can get it to cough and sputter when I preset the timing to be fully open on the distributor cam while at TDC.
I present the timing to 6 degrees as you showed in the video just this morning, but no luck. to get it there, I had to set the distributor on a different (more advanced) tooth on the cam gear. I checked and I have spark. I checked I was on the compression stroke. I have had 2 carb shops tell me that the Autolite 4100 carb is working fine and settings are correct. Any suggestion what to try?
BTW, when I set the distrib on different tooth, I rotate the crank by hand and it will drop in place within a 90 degree rotation, then I crank it back to my timing setting. Works great, no banging the distrub up and down.
I tossed the points and installed a Petronix. The engine started right up.
Hey Mark, I have a 351 windsor efi and timing is throwing me off! When I get #1 on compression my timing mark is is 10 degrees atdc #1 on the dizzy is lined up perfect! But when I check this thing with a timing light its 16 to 20 atdc! The more I advance toward 10 btdc it starts to idle way to hi and my headers start to glow red hot quick after start up! When I have it set to where the motor seems happy header elbows dont get as hot but still getting red at at collection of tubes close to the shortie flange were it hooks up to exhaust especially when I raise the RPMs tubes will heat back up! Im lost!
Wish I would have saw this earlier.
GRACIAS AMIGO, APRENDÍ A TOMAR EL TIEMPO SIN NECESIDAD DE LAMPARA: PREGUNTO, SE PUEDE HACER LO MISMO CON ENCENDIDO ELECTRONICO? (SIN PLATINOS).
Points and condensors,ok,electronic with the box fits just fine,289,302,are the same hieght at the flange,
Thanks got me movin 69 318
I thought the rotor should pointing towards cylinder 1 as close as possible?
Mark, Great video. I have a question. I went through your process on my 70 Boss 302 with a dual point distributor. The light on my test light was dimly lite all the time and when the points opened I got a bright light on the test light. I am wondering why I have a constant dim light all the time? Does it have something to do with the dual points? Thanks
shelbygt350r I have a 70 Boss 302 in my F-150. I don’t think my distributer has dual points though. The timing is terrible right now, and I’m hoping this video helps. I don’t know if I have any numbers or pointer though. We’ll find out today!
El distribuidor va antihorario en ese motor verdad?
Ok now how about the v6 I’m working on a 1975 mustang v6 I need some info how to do the timing
Please help!
My uncle and I put a 302 in my 66 mustang. Everything was top dead center, distributer on 1 (mine ignition 1 doesn't point straight back like yours more back right) never did the 10 or 12 degree thing or the light test/timing gun. It starts, needs a new carb, and has a misfire.
Do I have to redue the timing?
The distributor?
If my timing is off would that cause my car to shake when trying to accelerate? Car shakes really bad when going 35 or is that do to the carb/possible misfire? Thank you!!!!!
I have a 79 Lincoln continental 4.0 6.6 L. Could you please walk me through how to do the top dead center procedure on a distributor without points. I believe my distributor is an electronic distributor
This would be the same way you do an older 302 wouldn't it? I have a 68 cougar with the 302 that I need to set the timing on and it'll be my first time just trying to figure it out
I know this vid has been out for a while. Couple of questions. If you dont set the initial timing by use of the damper, could you get the "12" degrees of timing by turning" advancing" the timing at the distributer? Assuming there is enough room to turn it far enough. Secondly, does it matter where the rotor is pointing as long as you use that spot on the cap for your number 1 cylinder? Btw, very informative video!