One thing to mention that is really important is to make sure the torque converter is installed into the transmission correctly. If it isn't fully seated and engaged with the input shaft and the pump, it can damage the transmission and destroy the pump.
Great comment! Yes! We didn't go over that because our torque converter was rebuilt and installed by the transmission shop but this is absolutely correct. If you are installing your own torque converter, or you remove yours for any reason, push it on and turn it. It will engage 3 times. It will kind of seat into place, then you turn it, it will seat further and then you turn it and it will seat again. Once the torque converter is all the way seated, you should not be able to get your fingers behind the torque converter between the bell housing and the converter. Thanks for the good reminder!
We're so tired of doing transmissions, we're THRILLED its done. Looking forward to getting back on the F-250 that doesn't need any transmission work (knock on wood)
Sir... I need the cover shield of the converter torque. I bought a ZJ 1997, and I do not know how it is possible the other owner doesn't knew it wasn't there. Here in Brazil it is not easy to find spare parts, and may be you can tell me where to buy it or at least a picture of it... Regards...! By the way, excellent video!
That cover is mostly a dust cover, I've certainly had my fair share of vehicles that have lost it over the years. The only time its really helpful is if you do a lot of mudding as the cover keeps the mud out of the bell housing so the torque converter isn't spinning around in the mud. To get a replacement, ebay.com has several. I'm not sure how it is in Brazil but I have parts shipped from all over the world to my house in the US via eBay, so you should be good to order it on there. Good luck!
Thank u for link for part two. My problem is took jeep to a "TRANSMISSION SHOP" And didn't rebuild it,tore all apart,and told me I needed to bring him another tyranny. So I ordered a jasper tranny,tyranny, believe I'm missing bolts,parts, etc I could probably get it in myself if I had removed it but we were not familiar with this Jeep we had just bought it and now I'm just left with a bunch of parts
Man that sucks! Let’s see if we can help. There’s actually not a ton of parts that hold on the transmission/transfer case. You’re going to have bell housing bolts and the bolts for the starter. Then the rear cross member and the transmission mount. Also the bolts to hold the t-case to the transmission, and then of course the bolts for the driveshafts. If you watch part one with a note pad, you can write down exactly what bolts you need and get them back from the trans shop. Or worst case look on eBay for shops that sell used ZJ transmissions and contact them, tell them what parts you need and ask if they’ll make you a bolt package. They typically toss all those bolts when they pull the trans and transfer case so they should be happy to sell them to you. We know it seems overwhelming right now but the 44RE is not a particularly difficult transmission to change and there really aren’t that many bolts you’ll need to track down. If it were us we’d get the bolts, get the Jeep and the Jasper trans and install them ourselves. It’ll be a bit of a pain tracking down the bolts but doable. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
@@MotorsandMischief yes,thank you Did u remove check valve? Or did u replace the short line? I wished I could send u a pic of it. There's a short rubber(factory chrimped) line with a factory 90 degree bend-goes to bottom rite side of radiator, then back to factory steel lines
That’s your transmission cooler line. There’s two. You need to replace the radiator if you can’t get the cooler flushed really well. A good trans shop can flush the cooler but considering the trouble you’re having might be better to just replace. There is a factory auxiliary cooler for the trans on the 5.2 and the transmission needs both the aux cooler and the radiator cooler. Also, the two cooler lines have little brackets that hold them rigidly between the coolers and the transmission, you need those or the lines will rattle and develop leaks. Lastly, the cooler lines have quick fittings on the transmission end, they just pop on and off- see our part 1 video on how they work.
Also, to your question about the check valve, it's in the line that goes into the lower trans cooler fitting on the radiator. You can unbolt the check valve and see if its full of old transmission parts (its just a little spring with a ball). Find the lower trans cooler rubber line and follow it back to right under the fan/oil pan area. You will see a junction that looks like 2 nuts together. Put a wrench on each one and unbolt them. The check valve is in the fitting attached to the rubber hose that came from the rad.
It’s kinda hard to find just googling but I thought the torque spec for the flex plate onto the crank was 55 ft lbs, and the torque spec for the flex plate to torque converter is like 22.5 ft lbs. Already torqued my flex plate to the crank at 55ft lbs with blue medium locktight. Hopefully that’s fine because I’m putting the transmission back into it now lol
It is very hard to find torque specs, you're correct. Our manual says 55 for the 5.2/5.9 and 105 for the 4.0. So as long as you have a V8, you're good. Thanks for the question!
I've been struggling with correct adjustment on the TV cable. I have clip adjustment type. When I get a very close it shift decent but the gas pill is way too tight it's like it's putting too much resistance on the throttle
We adjusted ours by pushing the button so it moves freely, adjust the cable until the housing on the cable is just showing when you release the button. Then test drive. If its shifting too soon you pull it out, if its shifting too late you push it in more. Check to make sure the cable is routed correctly and not binding on anything because it should not be affecting the gas pedal at all. Good luck!
While everyone's doing this they should also look into getting an np242 transfer case with selectable two wheel drive in my opinion it's better than the 231 and has more options. I overtake m installed one on my 98 5.2 and all I had to do was cut 1 1/8 inch of the rear output shaft. One of the best upgrades I've done to my zj
This is a great upgrade! The NP249 in this rig is... problematic. We're opting to replace it with an NP231 because its just simpler and we don't really need the full-time 4WD the 242 gives. But we'll concede the 242 is the ultimate swap for the best of all worlds. Stay tuned as we've got more videos on the ZJ coming soon!
Mine has vibrations like crazy after converting to NP242. I tried adjusting angle of DS and still vibes over 60mph. I bought a slip yoke converter that is supposed to help, but then I'll need a custom DS. $$$ isn't really worth it IMO. I should've stayed with the stock TC.
Hey so Im installing my transmission it’s mounted up already held toguether by 4bolts and a jack .. but Im having trouble with the converter bolts I put one in and others won’t line up at all I’ve tried for about 2-4 hours is there a certain way I should do it ?
We feel your pain, we once fought a Ranger transmission for 3 days. What year is your ZJ? 95 and older have 1 bolt offset and aren’t symmetrical like the 96+. If you got that particular bolt hole started first, none of the others will fit. We’d try pulling the bolt, turning the flywheel to the next bolt hole, and then the next, until you find the one where they all line up. Good luck and thanks for the question!
Thanks for watching! Hope you guys find this video really helpful for reinstalling your ZJ transmission. Remember, this is part 2, and part 1 shows how to get the transmission out, so be sure to check that out if you haven't watched it already!
I wished we could trade emails, need help!! A mechanic told me I needed to remove the check valve do you know if it's in the high-pressure flex hose that's hooked to the bottom of the radiator there was two connections there's your transmission line went there about 6 and too short and then another rubber hose that was a pressure line hook to that and went to the bottom of the radiator when I pulled it off I can't blow air through it
There is a check valve that is what messes with everybody that tries to flush these. Lots of people will say just bypass it but I'm not that guy... there are other ways of doing it hit Google up
Oh man, that’s terrible! We hate pulling transmissions lol and we’ve been doing it so much lately. Glad this video helped you a bit, good luck with your freeze plug and thanks for commenting!
![Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ How To Remove Transmission - [Part 1 Removal]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bk8FNL7NIxE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ How To Remove Transmission - [Part 1 Removal]](/img/tr.png)
One thing to mention that is really important is to make sure the torque converter is installed into the transmission correctly. If it isn't fully seated and engaged with the input shaft and the pump, it can damage the transmission and destroy the pump.
Great comment! Yes! We didn't go over that because our torque converter was rebuilt and installed by the transmission shop but this is absolutely correct. If you are installing your own torque converter, or you remove yours for any reason, push it on and turn it. It will engage 3 times. It will kind of seat into place, then you turn it, it will seat further and then you turn it and it will seat again. Once the torque converter is all the way seated, you should not be able to get your fingers behind the torque converter between the bell housing and the converter. Thanks for the good reminder!
And getting it to slide in each time can be a huge pain. Sometimes you turn it about a thousand times to get it to engage each of the three times.
I didn’t do this it’s probably not set right, but I have crank no start would this be why?
Cool, bet it felt nice to get that one finished up!
We're so tired of doing transmissions, we're THRILLED its done. Looking forward to getting back on the F-250 that doesn't need any transmission work (knock on wood)
Sir... I need the cover shield of the converter torque. I bought a ZJ 1997, and I do not know how it is possible the other owner doesn't knew it wasn't there. Here in Brazil it is not easy to find spare parts, and may be you can tell me where to buy it or at least a picture of it... Regards...!
By the way, excellent video!
That cover is mostly a dust cover, I've certainly had my fair share of vehicles that have lost it over the years. The only time its really helpful is if you do a lot of mudding as the cover keeps the mud out of the bell housing so the torque converter isn't spinning around in the mud. To get a replacement, ebay.com has several. I'm not sure how it is in Brazil but I have parts shipped from all over the world to my house in the US via eBay, so you should be good to order it on there. Good luck!
@MotorsandMischief thank you kindly sir! I will search it, here as used part. Kindly regards. My best wishes for 2025. We keep in touch! Gabriel.
Thank u for link for part two.
My problem is took jeep to a "TRANSMISSION SHOP"
And didn't rebuild it,tore all apart,and told me I needed to bring him another tyranny.
So I ordered a jasper tranny,tyranny, believe I'm missing bolts,parts, etc
I could probably get it in myself if I had removed it but we were not familiar with this Jeep we had just bought it and now I'm just left with a bunch of parts
Man that sucks! Let’s see if we can help. There’s actually not a ton of parts that hold on the transmission/transfer case. You’re going to have bell housing bolts and the bolts for the starter. Then the rear cross member and the transmission mount. Also the bolts to hold the t-case to the transmission, and then of course the bolts for the driveshafts. If you watch part one with a note pad, you can write down exactly what bolts you need and get them back from the trans shop. Or worst case look on eBay for shops that sell used ZJ transmissions and contact them, tell them what parts you need and ask if they’ll make you a bolt package. They typically toss all those bolts when they pull the trans and transfer case so they should be happy to sell them to you. We know it seems overwhelming right now but the 44RE is not a particularly difficult transmission to change and there really aren’t that many bolts you’ll need to track down. If it were us we’d get the bolts, get the Jeep and the Jasper trans and install them ourselves. It’ll be a bit of a pain tracking down the bolts but doable. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
@@MotorsandMischief yes,thank you
Did u remove check valve?
Or did u replace the short line?
I wished I could send u a pic of it.
There's a short rubber(factory chrimped) line with a factory 90 degree bend-goes to bottom rite side of radiator, then back to factory steel lines
That’s your transmission cooler line. There’s two. You need to replace the radiator if you can’t get the cooler flushed really well. A good trans shop can flush the cooler but considering the trouble you’re having might be better to just replace. There is a factory auxiliary cooler for the trans on the 5.2 and the transmission needs both the aux cooler and the radiator cooler. Also, the two cooler lines have little brackets that hold them rigidly between the coolers and the transmission, you need those or the lines will rattle and develop leaks. Lastly, the cooler lines have quick fittings on the transmission end, they just pop on and off- see our part 1 video on how they work.
Also, to your question about the check valve, it's in the line that goes into the lower trans cooler fitting on the radiator. You can unbolt the check valve and see if its full of old transmission parts (its just a little spring with a ball). Find the lower trans cooler rubber line and follow it back to right under the fan/oil pan area. You will see a junction that looks like 2 nuts together. Put a wrench on each one and unbolt them. The check valve is in the fitting attached to the rubber hose that came from the rad.
It’s kinda hard to find just googling but I thought the torque spec for the flex plate onto the crank was 55 ft lbs, and the torque spec for the flex plate to torque converter is like 22.5 ft lbs.
Already torqued my flex plate to the crank at 55ft lbs with blue medium locktight. Hopefully that’s fine because I’m putting the transmission back into it now lol
It is very hard to find torque specs, you're correct. Our manual says 55 for the 5.2/5.9 and 105 for the 4.0. So as long as you have a V8, you're good. Thanks for the question!
I've been struggling with correct adjustment on the TV cable.
I have clip adjustment type.
When I get a very close it shift decent but the gas pill is way too tight it's like it's putting too much resistance on the throttle
We adjusted ours by pushing the button so it moves freely, adjust the cable until the housing on the cable is just showing when you release the button. Then test drive. If its shifting too soon you pull it out, if its shifting too late you push it in more. Check to make sure the cable is routed correctly and not binding on anything because it should not be affecting the gas pedal at all. Good luck!
Hello
How do I convert a 2003 Jeep Cherokee automatic transmission into a manual transmission?
While everyone's doing this they should also look into getting an np242 transfer case with selectable two wheel drive in my opinion it's better than the 231 and has more options. I overtake m installed one on my 98 5.2 and all I had to do was cut 1 1/8 inch of the rear output shaft. One of the best upgrades I've done to my zj
This is a great upgrade! The NP249 in this rig is... problematic. We're opting to replace it with an NP231 because its just simpler and we don't really need the full-time 4WD the 242 gives. But we'll concede the 242 is the ultimate swap for the best of all worlds. Stay tuned as we've got more videos on the ZJ coming soon!
Mine has vibrations like crazy after converting to NP242. I tried adjusting angle of DS and still vibes over 60mph. I bought a slip yoke converter that is supposed to help, but then I'll need a custom DS. $$$ isn't really worth it IMO. I should've stayed with the stock TC.
Hey so Im installing my transmission it’s mounted up already held toguether by 4bolts and a jack .. but Im having trouble with the converter bolts I put one in and others won’t line up at all I’ve tried for about 2-4 hours is there a certain way I should do it ?
We feel your pain, we once fought a Ranger transmission for 3 days. What year is your ZJ? 95 and older have 1 bolt offset and aren’t symmetrical like the 96+. If you got that particular bolt hole started first, none of the others will fit. We’d try pulling the bolt, turning the flywheel to the next bolt hole, and then the next, until you find the one where they all line up. Good luck and thanks for the question!
Thanks for watching! Hope you guys find this video really helpful for reinstalling your ZJ transmission. Remember, this is part 2, and part 1 shows how to get the transmission out, so be sure to check that out if you haven't watched it already!
I wished we could trade emails, need help!!
A mechanic told me I needed to remove the check valve do you know if it's in the high-pressure flex hose that's hooked to the bottom of the radiator there was two connections there's your transmission line went there about 6 and too short and then another rubber hose that was a pressure line hook to that and went to the bottom of the radiator when I pulled it off I can't blow air through it
There is a check valve that is what messes with everybody that tries to flush these. Lots of people will say just bypass it but I'm not that guy... there are other ways of doing it hit Google up
Thanks for the vid. I have to pull my tranny on my 04 grand Cherokee to replace the rear freeze plug. This vid lets me know the shit show as head! 😭
Oh man, that’s terrible! We hate pulling transmissions lol and we’ve been doing it so much lately. Glad this video helped you a bit, good luck with your freeze plug and thanks for commenting!
Yeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeah 😎👊🙏