Dude, I’m SO happy you posted this. I had what I thought to be some really solid game settings programmed in already (after hours of playing with the white point, gamma and shadow detail), but for some reason never thought to turn the contrast enhancer off with HDR gaming on basic. Once I did not only did it dial up the detail on my current settings, but completely reshaped the landscape with the proper highlights and impact I’ve been craving! Such a simple tweak, but one that I’m eternally grateful to you for posting, and bringing it to the forefront of my brain 🙈😅🤝🏻
Hi KG.First, I want to tell you that I like your vídeos a lot. Now, let's see. I use my QN90C with my seriesX, and I experienced everything with Samsung tvs over years. The first thing you want to do is calibrate your HDR10 APP in xbox in Game HDR, aka HGIG (Basic,Advanced doesn't matter) IN STATIC TONE MAPPING....this is very important. After that, it depends basically if the game you play has proper HDR10 implementation or not, and if it has a good hdr implementation, you never change the tone mapping to Active ftom Static since the game then completely ignores your properly done calibration in xbos hdr app and basically HGIG (Game HDR) becomes obsolete, since you will apply tone mapping done form the tv over the information you have from the xbox hdr calibration. Game HDR should always be on Static tone mapping, no matter if it is on Basic or Advanced. Now, with this said, you are correct about contrast enhancers being off, BUT it is very important to know that contrast enhancer in Game mode behave totally different from being to say in Standard or Fillmaker mode and while in Standard mode the low contrast enhancer will give you a slightly dimmer picture and overall slightly better contrast, in Game mode is exactly the opposite and Low/High contrast enhancher f.exmp. will give you a brighter image with more "pop" but worse specular highlights . This is done in purpose for lower end TVS (which I had) so you can artificialy "enhance" the HDR ( even if you gonna end up with clipped highlights less or more depending on the TV) due to the overall lack of 10% window peak brightness in these lower end edge lit, no local dimming TVS . In a high-end Oled/ miniled tv, contrast enhancers are inecessary since these tvs have ridiculous peak brightness, and you don't need to "enhance" anything and destroy your shadow details and specular highlights with contrast enhancers. There are so many things that I want to discuss with you, so that's why I subscribed since I love how you are the only one I actually met on TH-cam who is actually discussing Samsung tvs and their amazing Game Mode while everyone are in the LG ,Sony vagon and behaves that actually Samsung doesn't exist. I also discovered lots of stuff,glitches, about using a console as Xbox series x with your 2.1 hdmi tv for streaming content as TH-cam, Netflix, etc, while you have your seriesX set to 120hz/60hz ,4k uhd or 1080 display resolution while you have allow 4k or not in video modes, 8, 10 or 12 bits color gamut for Sdr content ( Hdr is always using 10 and the only thing that changes are the color format RGB/ycc422/ycc 420 depending on what you select in video modes etc, but all this maybe will discuss another time. Sorry for the " letter " type-typing. Spain here, cheers. 😊 Edit; It is very important to know that all Samsung tvs are using neutral sharpness at 10. Lowering your sharpness at 0 is undersharpens your picture and it looks not as intended from manufacturer. Also VRR is a complete no go for minileds TV since there are cases where it can absolutely disable your entire local dimming. ✌️
The contents of your comment are exactly why people are ignoring Samsung and go for LG or Sony. I too bought a Samsung two years ago and it's absolutely filled with horrible software quirks and glitches and bugs. Things oftentimes barely make sense. The hardware is good, and capable of a nice picture, but the software completely ruins it. If I had the money, I'd buy a G4 right this instant, and I can't wait to get rid of this horrible device. Maybe in a decade I'd dare to try again, if their products have gotten better by then, which I strongly doubt.
Hi dude, i’m french so sorry for my poor english, but what is your recommandation for the s95D in ST 2084 settings and shadow détail ? Thanks a lot for the vidéo 😊
I hate Samsung out of the box settings. I had to tweak the settings in my S95B to get a awesome looking picture. And I don't use Filmmaker mode because for me it's a dull picture. 😮
I use game Basic because Advanced looks a little to over saturated, then I set HDR tone mapping to active and it actually looks better than when set to static.
@@TechWithKG I use auto color space, because normal and native also have an oversaturated look to them as well and don't look as accurate. I did switch to BT.2020 though from the default DCI-P3.
You are using it wrong. Game HDR can be in Basic or Advanced, which doesn't matter since the only difference is a slightly more vibrant image in Advanced,but by changing your dynamic tone mapping to Active from Static you are ruining your specular highlights in HDR and your HGIG's (Game HDR) configuration set in your console when you calibrate HDR on Static tone mapping (which is how is meant to calibrate for example your Xbox's hdr) becomes useless.
@@ADISTOD3MUS I always calibrate with game HDR set to basic and tone mapping set to static. If you shouldn't set active when choosing game HDR basic and only when choosing advanced, then why isn't the choice grayed out then for active when set to game HDR basic? Although have noticed like you said, when I change to active the clouds and sky do lose some detail with the highlights. I just like active a little better because sometimes basic can be slightly dim in comparison.
Need help! I can’t even figure out how to even get my Samsung S90D to let me have the option to change into game motion plus. It’s always greyed out. Do I need to change some options on my Xbox settings for it to be available?
Hey Tech KG I have a question, so I play on a budget tv Samsung nu6900 which is the 6 series it's a LED lacks brightness and wide color gamut. I was wondering if you ever had a low end TV like that and what would be the optimal settings for both HDR and SDR? I keep playing around with the settings and I just can't find the happy click of it..especially HDR as it's easily washed out and unplayable
For that TV I would disable HDR in every single game or movie and just watch or play in SDR it doesn’t have enough brightness for HDR so SDR would be a better option for you.
@TechWithKG True I guess there isn't a way to enjoy it in HDR. But what about best SDR settings? do you have any you could list for me to change to make it the best possible experience for gaming.
I have the Samsung S90d. What are your thoughts on the HDR 10+ setting? My understanding is most games on ps5 don't use it. Is there any harm to having it on? Thanks in advance.
Here's a trick.if you want max contrast without clipping on the s90d just drop your shadow detail slider to -3 or lower.this will help keep your peak brightness without sacrificing your contrast setting.trust me,this absolutely works.dont ask me how or why this works, it absolutely doesn't make sense.i thought it might of been a apl reason but the eotf slider brightens and lowers the picture by a bit with no affect,so yeah,it doesn't make any sense .maybe classy tech can look into this
Dude, I’m SO happy you posted this. I had what I thought to be some really solid game settings programmed in already (after hours of playing with the white point, gamma and shadow detail), but for some reason never thought to turn the contrast enhancer off with HDR gaming on basic. Once I did not only did it dial up the detail on my current settings, but completely reshaped the landscape with the proper highlights and impact I’ve been craving! Such a simple tweak, but one that I’m eternally grateful to you for posting, and bringing it to the forefront of my brain 🙈😅🤝🏻
Hi KG.First, I want to tell you that I like your vídeos a lot. Now, let's see. I use my QN90C with my seriesX, and I experienced everything with Samsung tvs over years. The first thing you want to do is calibrate your HDR10 APP in xbox in Game HDR, aka HGIG (Basic,Advanced doesn't matter) IN STATIC TONE MAPPING....this is very important. After that, it depends basically if the game you play has proper HDR10 implementation or not, and if it has a good hdr implementation, you never change the tone mapping to Active ftom Static since the game then completely ignores your properly done calibration in xbos hdr app and basically HGIG (Game HDR) becomes obsolete, since you will apply tone mapping done form the tv over the information you have from the xbox hdr calibration. Game HDR should always be on Static tone mapping, no matter if it is on Basic or Advanced. Now, with this said, you are correct about contrast enhancers being off, BUT it is very important to know that contrast enhancer in Game mode behave totally different from being to say in Standard or Fillmaker mode and while in Standard mode the low contrast enhancer will give you a slightly dimmer picture and overall slightly better contrast, in Game mode is exactly the opposite and Low/High contrast enhancher f.exmp. will give you a brighter image with more "pop" but worse specular highlights . This is done in purpose for lower end TVS (which I had) so you can artificialy "enhance" the HDR ( even if you gonna end up with clipped highlights less or more depending on the TV) due to the overall lack of 10% window peak brightness in these lower end edge lit, no local dimming TVS . In a high-end Oled/ miniled tv, contrast enhancers are inecessary since these tvs have ridiculous peak brightness, and you don't need to "enhance" anything and destroy your shadow details and specular highlights with contrast enhancers. There are so many things that I want to discuss with you, so that's why I subscribed since I love how you are the only one I actually met on TH-cam who is actually discussing Samsung tvs and their amazing Game Mode while everyone are in the LG ,Sony vagon and behaves that actually Samsung doesn't exist. I also discovered lots of stuff,glitches, about using a console as Xbox series x with your 2.1 hdmi tv for streaming content as TH-cam, Netflix, etc, while you have your seriesX set to 120hz/60hz ,4k uhd or 1080 display resolution while you have allow 4k or not in video modes, 8, 10 or 12 bits color gamut for Sdr content ( Hdr is always using 10 and the only thing that changes are the color format RGB/ycc422/ycc 420 depending on what you select in video modes etc, but all this maybe will discuss another time. Sorry for the " letter " type-typing. Spain here, cheers. 😊 Edit; It is very important to know that all Samsung tvs are using neutral sharpness at 10. Lowering your sharpness at 0 is undersharpens your picture and it looks not as intended from manufacturer. Also VRR is a complete no go for minileds TV since there are cases where it can absolutely disable your entire local dimming. ✌️
The contents of your comment are exactly why people are ignoring Samsung and go for LG or Sony. I too bought a Samsung two years ago and it's absolutely filled with horrible software quirks and glitches and bugs. Things oftentimes barely make sense. The hardware is good, and capable of a nice picture, but the software completely ruins it. If I had the money, I'd buy a G4 right this instant, and I can't wait to get rid of this horrible device. Maybe in a decade I'd dare to try again, if their products have gotten better by then, which I strongly doubt.
What is your recommendation for S90D? I use both advanced options atm.
Can you test lossless scaling frame generation steam app and compare it to result that game motion plus does? Assuming you have a gaming PC also.
Hi dude, i’m french so sorry for my poor english, but what is your recommandation for the s95D in ST 2084 settings and shadow détail ?
Thanks a lot for the vidéo 😊
I hate Samsung out of the box settings. I had to tweak the settings in my S95B to get a awesome looking picture. And I don't use Filmmaker mode because for me it's a dull picture. 😮
Hello TWkg i have a question hope you can help me should i run my ps5 pro directly to my sony a95L or to my Yamaha a8a? thank you for your input.
I use game Basic because Advanced looks a little to over saturated, then I set HDR tone mapping to active and it actually looks better than when set to static.
It’s probably due to it being in native color space by default
@@TechWithKG I use auto color space, because normal and native also have an oversaturated look to them as well and don't look as accurate. I did switch to BT.2020 though from the default DCI-P3.
You are using it wrong. Game HDR can be in Basic or Advanced, which doesn't matter since the only difference is a slightly more vibrant image in Advanced,but by changing your dynamic tone mapping to Active from Static you are ruining your specular highlights in HDR and your HGIG's (Game HDR) configuration set in your console when you calibrate HDR on Static tone mapping (which is how is meant to calibrate for example your Xbox's hdr) becomes useless.
@@ADISTOD3MUS I always calibrate with game HDR set to basic and tone mapping set to static. If you shouldn't set active when choosing game HDR basic and only when choosing advanced, then why isn't the choice grayed out then for active when set to game HDR basic? Although have noticed like you said, when I change to active the clouds and sky do lose some detail with the highlights. I just like active a little better because sometimes basic can be slightly dim in comparison.
Need help! I can’t even figure out how to even get my Samsung S90D to let me have the option to change into game motion plus. It’s always greyed out. Do I need to change some options on my Xbox settings for it to be available?
Turn vrr off
@ I did turn it off but I still can’t access game motion plus. It’s still greyed out in the game mode option bar.
Hey Tech KG I have a question, so I play on a budget tv Samsung nu6900 which is the 6 series it's a LED lacks brightness and wide color gamut. I was wondering if you ever had a low end TV like that and what would be the optimal settings for both HDR and SDR? I keep playing around with the settings and I just can't find the happy click of it..especially HDR as it's easily washed out and unplayable
For that TV I would disable HDR in every single game or movie and just watch or play in SDR it doesn’t have enough brightness for HDR so SDR would be a better option for you.
@TechWithKG True I guess there isn't a way to enjoy it in HDR. But what about best SDR settings? do you have any you could list for me to change to make it the best possible experience for gaming.
I have the Samsung S90d. What are your thoughts on the HDR 10+ setting? My understanding is most games on ps5 don't use it. Is there any harm to having it on? Thanks in advance.
I wish there would be a easy way to switch between HDR and non HDR settings.
There kind of is, for HDR games use one of basic or advanced then for SDR use a game genre like “original” or one that you prefer
Does 4k/8k ai upscaling still work when game mode is on ?
recommended for qn85a ??
its a Samsung, Right? Then Yes.
If anyone is wondering. Black Ops 6 and The First Descendent offers HDR10+. I just don’t know if that’s on console or PC.
S90d!!!
Here's a trick.if you want max contrast without clipping on the s90d just drop your shadow detail slider to -3 or lower.this will help keep your peak brightness without sacrificing your contrast setting.trust me,this absolutely works.dont ask me how or why this works, it absolutely doesn't make sense.i thought it might of been a apl reason but the eotf slider brightens and lowers the picture by a bit with no affect,so yeah,it doesn't make any sense .maybe classy tech can look into this
My S95D 77" is Awesome but I need a 83" Samsung