Eachine ETX Vertical Hit & Miss Water Cooled Engine
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Since Banggood is no longer interested in selling engines, get your engines here.
M91 (same as ETX) Vertical Hit & Miss Water Cooled Model Engine demonstration.
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M91 Vertical Hit & Miss Engine IC Engine bit.ly/3JkelTa
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M12C Horizontal Water-cooled 2 Cylinder IC Engine bit.ly/3oFDQoF
M14 Double Piston Mini Engine bit.ly/3oTqJA5
M19 Vertical Hit & Miss Engine With Flying Ball Governor bit.ly/3vCZGx0
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M94 Hit & Miss Engine - Simplified Governor bit.ly/3SoZrzf
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I love the way it jumps the box up and down while running.
Thank you for the great informative video!! I will be ordering this engine very soon to add to my dad’s and mine collection. I think we are fortunate to have the Chinese make these. Before these engines models of this caliber would be very limited runs by true artist and cost thousands of dollars. I can still appreciate a hand made model engine and I would love to own one one day.
Ive always loved engines and how they work. Im gunna be an engineer when im older!
Same.
Good, the world needs more engineers. Are you good at math?
Same
Nice review! The designer, Jin, has videos of this with an electric motor attached for self starting. And he has the engine mounted in a boat. He starts the engine via his RC transmitter and then drives his model boat around on the pond. Pretty neat.
Just a thought, using an appropriate antifreeze mixture would help protect from freezing damage and if a reasonable quality one is used bimetallic corrosion.
My point here was to remind people if you forget there is water in it, it can freeze and break. I don't think I would bother with antifreeze. There are several different metals and not sure what seals are inside it. Just drain it up when done playing.
I have the same two engines . They are very nicely made how ever there is one flaw in there design ! The fully floating gudgeon pin will rub and score the cylinder liner . I slightly shortened the gudgeon pin and machined 2 small Teflon discs and placed them in the piston preventing the gudgeon rubbing the liner .
Good idea.
There are a number of shortcuts in the manufacture of these engines.
Quite a few areas available for improvement.
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe.
That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
Hi Ron, Remove your crank case vent plug and it will free-wheel longer between power strokes (firing) and run cooler. Nice video. Gil
I will try that. Thanks!
Ron; I see that Banggood now offers a "rope starter kit" to be used on the ET1 & ETX engines! Interesting, for sure. My ET1 has no need for this option; it starts easily with just a spin of the flywheel by hand.
Thanks. I hadn't seen that yet. I will add a link in the video descriptions.
My ETX now starts easily by hand as well.
Could be for poeple that use them in model boats, they do the same thing for glow engines in rc cars and boats since there's no room to spin the wheels.
@@archygrey9093 good point, Archy.
The crankcase of that engine is made to hold a little bit of oil
Beautiful. Nice engine and wonderful description. Thanks, Ron.
I so want one of these! I think the price is certainly fair, but it’s still a lot of money to spend as a college student. Plus, I’m going to school for manufacturing anyway so I could throw some parts on one of the Haas mills and make one myself. I have plans for the horizontal one.
I purchased one of these and it was an absolute piece of junk. It turned up with a smashed spark plug so I needed to replace it. Despite careful lubrication and bleeding of the cooling system prior to starting it only ran for around 5 minutes before it failed. It now makes a grinding sound from the bottom end and there is a lot of play in one of the crank bearings. It had not even reached temperature before it failed.
You are offered insurance with the shipping when you paid for it. If it was received damaged, did you file a claim for damage?
Banggood offers 30 day return or replacement. Did you file a claim?
If you paid with PayPal, you have double protection and longer than 30 days to file a claim.
Did you do any of these things?
@@RonaldWalters2010 Yes the item is being returned. My comment was more about the quality of the item rather than the buyer protection. It was disappointing because the videos I have seen about this engine looked promising and while I was expecting (an willing) to make some minor adjustments there was around 0.5mm slop in the main crank bearings (not end play). The flywheel at the cam end also had nearly 1mm runout along with other issues made it pointless trying to get it working properly. It was also sold as a UK warehouse item but took over a month to arrive and we then had to pay import duty on top of the purchase price.
Very nice, I can't wait to order this latest model from Jin! I like to paint the ignition boxes, and mount the engines to heavy oak bases to keep them from jumping around while running.
Both engines definitely need heavier bases.
you do very good explaining these.thank you.i'm into full size hit miss engines my biggest engine is 9hp economy.but do enjoy little ones.how do you lower compression on little upright..lighter exhaust spring?
I replaced both of the governor springs with shorter lighter springs. I have not touched the intake or exhaust valve springs. It seemed to me the vertical Hit & Miss had slightly lower compression than the horizontal Hit & Miss. This would have been done by the manufacturer by altering the length of the connection rod or very slightly shortening the piston.
I would have thought that the vertical engine would have had a wet crankcase (oil) and a splash lubricator for the piston and upper connecting rod bearing and cylinder will. The plug on the side of the crankcase looks like it would be the filler and place to check oil level.
All of these hit & miss model engines are dry sumps. Oil everything before every run.
This engine would be a real jewel if equipped with magneto ignition.
Great info convinced me to buy two of them. Problem one of them will not start no spark on the plug, any ideas?
Not sure if you are telling me you have a problem or are ask me for a suggestion of which one(s) to buy.
ETX is a good engine but in my opinion overly complicated and not worth the extra money.
In this series of hit-n-miss engines ET1, ET7 and ET6 are my favorites, in that order.
ET1 was the first in the series.
ET7 has a simplified governor and is easiest to work on in terms of replacing the piston ring o-ring.
EM2 is also a really nice engine.
Purchase them separately using my links and discount codes (found in the description for these engine videos) and you will save some money.
EM2 may not have a discount code.
Banggood has a 30 day refund/replacement guarantee. But I always suggest using PayPal for payment which simply gives you one more layer of protection.
Therefore if it is damaged in shipment or doesn’t run you are covered. Banggood may ask for a little more for insurance which isn’t a bad idea especially this time of year.
Engines which are in stock have been reaching me via air freight in about two weeks, but this time of year can delay things.
If you put the clamps on the side it will act like legs extending out giving more surface area, so the engine would be less likely to tip over, (think of the out rig legs on a crane). 😁
Basically, it just needs a heavier metal box.
Enjoyed the review.. covered the setup well i thought. Thanks.
Why don't you put glycol in it for freezing conditions
Thanks Ron for another great ET engine review! I wonder if using anti-freeze instead of water would be a better idea if this engine might be exposed to freezing? Anyway, yours is a great running engine. Do you have a source that you could share for the springs that slow it down? I have the ET1 and I have not been disappointed it that engine! I think that this ETX could use a little different base design so it is not as tippy. Again, thanks for the great review.
Both engines (horizontal and vertical) need a heavier base. My point here was to remind people if you forget there is water in it, it can freeze and break. I don't think I would bother with antifreeze. The springs are 0.4mm wire diameter x 4.5mm x 12mm dual hook tension spring - available out of China… pack of 58 pcs so you’ll have a few spares. www.ebay.com/itm/0-4mmx4-5x12mm-Metal-Dual-Hook-Small-Tension-Spring-58pcs-/323742846964?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
Very informative video!
4:13 put anti freeze in it
Was the battery ever replaced with a magneto/capacitor?
Not to my knowledge. I haven't seen one.
@@RonaldWalters2010 would it have worked ?
Magneto ignition is simple yet somewhat complicated. You have a spinning magnet, laminated core, wound coil, capacitor, contact points and a cam, which probably is not going to respond well to miniaturization. Even the smallest ones tended to be fairly beefy items... and it takes some power to drive one (and a heavy flywheel). This is why ignition systems have gone electronic with magnets and Hall-effect sensors.
Lawnmowers, weed eaters, leaf blowers all have a flywheel with a magnet in it but the remainder of the ignition system is electronic and sealed to keep out water and dirt and to eliminate the contact points (which were often a problem).
I had been looking at this engine since your first video on it, but with this video, I decided to order it and add it to my ET1 engine collection! But, this engine is different in some ways, of course. You indicated, that yours maybe a bit down on compression. Could it be that the piston is getting less lubrication because of its vertical position? Perhaps, a bit more oil should be added to the fuel. I like to add an amount of " Marvel Oil" so it shows pink in my fuel line. Also, my engine(s) seems to run best on lighter fluid. I am also wondering, if an amount of oil should be added to the crankcase that would be splashed up to the wrist pin by the crank/connecting rod? When I get my engine, I think these are the things that I am going to do. Also, I wonder if you have tried the optional pull cord starting, just for the fun of it? Keep the great videos coming, regards Karl
After running for a while the compression improved and it became easier to start. I think the o-ring piston rings seated a bit better. I increased the Marvel Mystery Oil to about 5% and I think that provides plenty of lubrication. Any more than that and it may screw up the spark plug. The crankcase isn't intended to hold oil and oil from the fuel accumulates inside and leaks out around the bottom plate. Lighter fuel is naphtha which is pretty volatile. Coleman Lantern Fuel is basically unleaded gasoline without any additives (white gas) and both of my hit & miss engine run on it very well. The pull cord accessory was not available until after I made the videos... and no, I have not tried it. Thanks for watching! Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010 Okay on the crankcase seal. I guess I would, in this case, squirt oil through the crankcase breather hole aimed at the connecting rod. Then, I would invert the engine for a period of time, hoping that some of this oil, reaches the piston, cylinder and wrist pin. If there is some piston blow-by, with oiled fuel, this may solve the lower crankcase lubrication, I would think. Keep the ideas coming Ron. My engine is on its way to me here in Michigan!
I just received my ETX engine today; unboxed it, oiled it, fuel it up, and after about 5 spins of the flywheel by hand, I had a running engine! Mine came with a starter pulley and rope. I think next week, I will see if my 15 month old great grandson can start it! Great fun!
Glad you like it.
Nice informative video. Makes me want to get one.
Thanks for your videos, received the ETX today and am anxious to fire it up. What's your thoughts on putting some light oil in the crackcase since it's "sealed". Maybe some would splash around and lube the con bearing and wrist pin? Kinda like a model t ford... thanks
Rod, I have not taken the engine apart but I am under the impression the crankcase is not sealed and there probably are no seals on the crankshaft. I show how I oil the upper and lower end of the connecting rod using a syringe. The bottom end has bushings on it so it needs frequent oiling. It has been a while since I ran mine but it seems like the oil from the fuel leaks out along the base. I also have a video on the fuel I use. Have fun! Ron
Thanks for your reply, I'll add marvel to the fuel and attempt to oil it with a needle. Appreciate your attention to detail!
Saw this engine on another channel. Thought it was home-made. Oh well. Still cool though. Thanx.
nice job ron...i want one
How much time can you get from the rubber piston rings before replacement?
Viewers have said 5 to 8 hrs just running the engine under no load. Under continuous load maybe 3 hours. 5 hours on one of these model engines is a long time. I seldom run one for more than 8 or 10 minutes at a time.
Thanks for watching. Ron
@@RonaldWalters2010
Can you put oil in the crank case? Enough for splash lubrication? I guess with only 5-10 min demo runs, it might just be unnecessary and messy. But, would that add run time to the rings? Or is there any reason the crank case can’t have 1/4 in. of oil?
Very cool stuff!
What did you mean when you said it did not run like a normal hit and miss before the spring modification? Too high RPMs?
When idling under no load it fired too often, not enough misses or coasting. And when it fired it would fire two of three times in a row (double tap or triple tap). Also a bit too high RPM's. For a demonstration model, once it is running and warmed up, you want something like: HIT... miss.... miss... miss....miss.... miss... miss... miss... miss... HIT... miss... miss... etc.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Ahhh Ok. Thank you for your response Sir, much appreciated!
What did you do to reduce compression? Machine 0.100 off piston like Gil?
No, I wouldn't touch the engine. Maybe I didn't say that very well. It appeared (to me) the manufacturer reduced the compression. My vertical engine has slightly lower compression than the horizontal. Compression has improved slightly after running a while, but it is still lower than the horizontal.
I got my ETX engine today and it leaks all the water out at the plunger of the pump.. how do Ihave get it fixed.
The fittings on the tubing use a flat washer seal gasket which looks like thin paper or cardboard. The flange on top of the pump (2 screws) probably has an o-ring which seals the flange and acts as a wiper on the pump rod (like a hydraulic cylinder). It will be a small metric o-ring. I am guessing since I have not had it apart and there are no diagrams or parts lists for these engines. If you want to discuss this further go to my channel page > About > lower left corner "Get eMail Address" and send me an email.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks Ron
Great video Ron. Very well filmed and explained. Beautiful engine. Do these give off carbon monoxide ? Cheers Rob
Most anything that burns fuel gives off carbon monoxide.
@@RonaldWalters2010 How much? I once ran a Nitro engine in my apartment and I started choking immediately. Not one of my best ideas. I know carbon monoxide won't choke somebody, it simply makes somebody pass out. However, I did learn the hard way that some engines can be very dirty. Perhaps I had the carburetor setting too rich.
How Much? Links and coupon codes are in the description for these videos.
The exhaust from burning methanol and nitro methane can be overwhelming. If you have ever been near an alcohol burning race car you will never forget how bad it is.
@@RonaldWalters2010 I meant, how much carbon monoxide?
I have no idea. You should have an exhaust fan running. I cannot run an exhaust fan and the hit & miss engine when shooting a video as my exhaust is too noisy for the microphone. After 5 or 10 minutes out in my shop it is time for the exhaust fan.
what spring are you using and where are you getting them?
They are 0.4mm wire diameter x 4.5mm x 12mm dual hook tension spring - available out of China… pack of 58 pcs so you’ll have a few spares. www.ebay.com/itm/0-4mmx4-5x12mm-Metal-Dual-Hook-Small-Tension-Spring-58pcs-/323742846964?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
Hello Ron,
nice purchase! 😃👍
Are you sure about the brass engine head? Could it be the same aluminum head but yellow anodized (difficult to see in the video)?
I hope you will not have any temperature below freezing this year inside your living room. 😉 And if so, how about filling the engine with 35 % of anti freeze concentrate? 🤭 Then you should be safe to -25°C/-13°F. 🙃
When your shoulder is back to normal, how about turning a beautiful airfilter housing in brass or 3D-printing it? Or other machining?
I have a question about the hit and miss: every second I hear a louder "clack"... is this the very brief combustion mode and 90 % miss or is it 90% combustion mode and just 10% miss?
Greetings from Berlin, Germany
That's why I said "it appears to be brass". It does not appear to be anodized... but???
My point here was to remind people if you forget there is water in it, it can freeze and break. I don't think I would bother with antifreeze. Several different metals and not sure what seals are inside it. Just drain it up when done playing.
The "clack" is the engine exhaust, but there are some other clicking noises such as the exhaust valve lifter coming off the detent , making contact with the cam and possibly strange sounds being picked up by the camera microphone (echos in my shop)... and the electronic noise occasionally introduced by the editing program.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks for responding! 🙂
But about max revs control: do you think the engine runs 90% in combustion mode and 10% miss mode or vice versa 10/90? This is difficult to recognise in the video.
I like such mechanical toys and the loveley detail of the 90 deg angled terminal of the spark plug wire. 😀👍
Looks like it hits... then 7 misses... then hits... then 7 misses.... 12/88.
Lots of things are difficult to discern in a video because of the stroboscopic effect caused by the camera shutter speed coupled with various moving objects, fluorescent lights, etc.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Thanks! 🤗
Do you think 7/8 of the consumed fuel comes out of the exhaust unburned or does the opened exhaust valve during the miss cycle makes the vacuum controlled intake valve kept shut, so that no air is floating through the carburator 7/8 of the total runtime?
As stated in the video, the vacuum operated intake valve cannot operate when the exhaust valve is held open so there is no fuel consumption when coasting. No raw fuel comes out the exhaust.
I love it, and I know it's not that simple to build. Still, for that price I can get a car LOL.
Do you have a link for the starter you made or video? Also where do you buy the weaker springs for counter weights ?
I haven't made the starter video yet. That will be one of my next projects... should have shot the video when I made this one (hindsight 20/20). You will probably need a lathe or CNC Laser cutter to make it. I do not think I said I had a link for the springs. I bought them 2 or 3 years ago in anticipation of needing them for my Mini Calliope project and then did not use them. I will look at my records.
What luck. The springs are still available out of China… pack or 58 pcs so you’ll have a few spares.www.ebay.com/itm/0-4mmx4-5x12mm-Metal-Dual-Hook-Small-Tension-Spring-58pcs-/323742846964?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
@UCeSTRun3Q6OWu74L5k5BTnQ Thanks for the link and video. Much appreciated.
You are welcome! I had to re-upload that video because of a mistake I found in it. This is the new link if you need it. Cordless Drill Starting Attachment for Eachine Hit & Miss Engines th-cam.com/video/bD4Yh209CuU/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a link where this can be purchased?
The links are in the description for this video... or here: Eachine ETX Vertical Hit & Miss Gas Engine Water Cooling discount code BGETX30, US$329.99, expires on Sept 30, 2019. bit.ly/2maaX71
I got one of these from Banggood yesterday but out of the box it has no detectable compression whatever when hand cranking a flywheel (correct direction - clockwise governor side). Spark plug is also jammed in. I can't see this one running so haven't even tried as it turns over as if the cylinder head is removed - zero resistance. Think I have a dud and should likely return it?
Hello Ed, Indications with my two engines were they had been briefly test-run at the factory. So you should look around a little before assuming it a dud.
There are three obvious things, which would prevent compression.
Spark Plug not tightened (DO NOT over tighten… just snug). This is probably not the problem.
Gently verify all the head bolts are tight. This also is probably not the problem.
Intake valve not closing. It is opened by the piston down-stroke pulling a vacuum. Jiggle it a little and confirm it is operating freely.
Exhaust valve not fully closing. This is the most likely cause. There must be a small gap between the valve stem and the rocker arm. The gap is about the thickness of a piece of typing paper. These engines have always been well packed but a tiny bit of foam or dirt could somehow be holding the exhaust valve open… or a piece of junk between the valve stem and the rocker arm. A film of oil will hold onto a bit of dirt or something.
The push rod needs to be inside the outer pocket of the rocker arm. This can happen when the engine is running and suddenly decides to quit and has lost compression (Stated for future reference).
The mechanism, which operates the push rod needs to move freely. Verify the bearing is moving up and down freely with the cam. (This is down in the area of the governor and behind the gears).
Best advice is to play around with it to see if you can eventually find something stupid simple that is holding the exhaust valve open. This was probably test run at the factory so it should be working now unless something got bounced around or moved by the packaging. Absolute last resort is to go around loosening screws and changing things as you can quickly lose track of where everything should be.
Repositioning the rocker arm to adjust valve clearance (if absolutely necessary) is a tedious task, as once the two head bolts are loosened everything moves around. It is a trial and error process (mostly error), which needs to be done repeatedly until you accidentally get it right (especially the first couple of times you do it). Simply moving the rocker arm can change valve clearance. Ideally the valve stem is centered on the rocker arm. Once the rocker arm is moved out of the way… if you immediately have compression, then that was the problem. If you still do not have compression… it was not the problem (oops!). Check, double check, triple check before deciding to change ANYTHING.
Originally two green o-rings were used as piston rings. I have been told they reduced that to only one o-ring to make the engines easier to start and idle slower. These o-rings are fairly durable and that is probably not the problem.
Good Luck! Let me know how you do. Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe! Ron
Hi Ron. Thanks for the 'treatise' on the Banggood supplied vertical H&M - a very full account! Although I enjoy tinkering my universal view of new purchases is that they should basically work 'out of the box' - a good principle in general because most warranties are automatically invalidated by owner tinkering. Anyway, being an H&M newbie my first message really sought to establish if I should try to run it anyway - even with no detectable compression! I had already noted the vulnerability of these engines to valve seating issues but did not wish to dismantle the head to explore this. The good news is that you were 'spot-on' about the exhaust valve! My non-invasive 'surgery' was to remove the exhaust muffler (very loosely screwed on) thus exposing a pathway to the valve. I then applied strong suction from a household vacuum cleaner running with a constricted pipe to the open port while jiggling the valve open and closed from the topside. I noticed some black 'gunk' had been thus extracted and - hey presto compression!! You were also correct that this engine had been test run and further evidence was found when I removed the spark plug - still very wet and covered in black 'gunk' - can't help wondering what they ran it on, perhaps horse manure! It was quite tight in the head and now nicely cleaned before I try running. Another thing I learnt was that the hexagonal bar stock used to produce these PK branded plugs is not of the usual 8mm (5/16) AF - as expected for 1/4-32 threaded model engine spark plugs. For a reason I cannot guess they have used 2 BA bar stock for this which is .322 inch (8.2mm) and explains why, when tight anyway, I had difficulty removing it using an 8mm tube wrench which clearly does not fit properly. A 2 BA box wrench fits perfectly but I guess an 8mm wrench will be needed if I ever upgrade to a different plug. Another amazing thing about these little engines is that they apparently use a plastic (Viton Buna 70) piston ring - not cast iron as expected - and further now only 1 whereas originally 2 were fitted!! I'm going to try double AA battery power (3.2V vs. 4.8V) before a run as I've heard that these engines have voltage sensitive ignition and 4.8V can cause premature failure. Will check all fixture for tightness first, as you suggest. Great fun, I'm sure!
Hello Ed,
You will be tinkering with these the more you run them.
The muffler is usually no more than hand tight.
The battery pack is intended for 3 AA flashlight batteries, which is 4.5 VDC nominal… regular flashlight batteries 1.5V each. The 4.5V is too much. I recommend replacing one battery with a blank reducing the supply to 3.0 VDC. I use freshly recharged Ni-MH batteries which are around 1.2V each… so 2.4V will run the engine.
Caution with the spark plug threads. Some model plugs have different threads. If it doesn’t screw in freely by hand, do not use it as you will screw up the threads in the head. Some incorrect threads will screw in 1 or 2 turns and then bind up. Most things coming out of China are going to be metric but not everything and some will have a mixture like metric hex bar stock with an English thread.
Consistency (quality control) can be a problem coming out of China. I was looking for a nut driver that would fit the nozzles on my 3D printer. I was looking at Craftsman tool display and had to sort through 5 different wrenches (supposedly all the same size) before finding one that fit the nozzle correctly.
I run on Coleman Lantern Fuel (some call it white gas) with just a hint of Marvel Mystery Oil. Just enough to give a hit of a pink color. That seems to be good for the o-rings and doesn’t produce too much carbon (that black junk you found). The o-rings are 22mm OD by 1mm thick (wire diameter) flurosilicone. The listing for the correct o-ring can be found in the description for my hit and miss engine videos. Caution: There are two different sizes of o-rings on Banggood. The earlier Blue hit and miss uses a larger size.
The use of the single o-ring was to reduce the compression a little in order to make the engine easier to start and I think it would run better at slow speeds. Replacing the governor springs as I have shown in my videos is a good modification.
I would install two o-rings in my engine when the original fails. My engine has 2 o-rings and runs just fine.
Thanks for watching. Please Subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running.
Ron
Thanks again for the swift reply. Are you using the stock PK branded spark plug in your vertical? What electrode gap are you using? I checked mine and found the gap to be .002". !!!! Perhaps this accounts for the heavy fouling I mentioned? I asked Jin of Microcosm for his recommendation and he says about 1 mm. !!!! Both .002" and 1 mm seem pretty wacky to me...
Ed,
1 mm = 0.03937 inch (say 0.04”)
Remember the larger the gap the hotter the spark… provided the ignition system (battery strength) can provide a spark strong enough to jump the gap. A hotter spark will help keep the plug clean.
Too much oil in the fuel can cause the engine to carbon up.
A sheet of typing paper is .0025 - .003 so perhaps you meant to type 0.02”
A No.11 Xacto blade is 0.5mm or 0.02” thick and that is a good starting place. If it fouls up then increase the gap to 1mm and see how that does (or split the difference around 0.7mm).
Easy does it bending around on that spark plug. They can break fairly easily.
If you do not have any spare green o-rings for the piston or a spare spark plug, it is a good time to order one as shipments out of China are taking forever lately.
I am not at home and can’t check one physically. Usually I just look at one and say, “Yep, that’s about right”… and screw it into the engine.
Have you had it running?
Ron
Hi Ronald, I can tell you are a knowledgeable model enthusiast & would love to have you join us on "the office of steam forum" here in the USA, sincerely ,St. Paul Steam .
Price is $380, not the description’s $330.
If you just click on the link it's $380. If you use the code (clearly given) it's $330. The sale won't last forever... ends in less than a week.
You're awesome! I used your new code and ordered the engine.
Sorry about the hassle. I have no control over some of this and it is nearly impossible to keep up with what is going on with these links and codes. Thank you for the order! Ron
I applied for a new discount code BGETX30, US$329.99, expires on Sept 30, 2019.
@@RonaldWalters2010 Any chance on this being extended? Great series of videos!
Three in one is terrible oil. It gums up into a kind of varnish over time. I've seen lots of problems from using it. I would use synthetic motor oil. It never gums up and it has remarkable properties against wear, although a motor like this is pretty undemanding for a motor oil. The last thing you want is old oil varnish all over your engine.
3-In-One, Singer, Sewing Machine Oil are thin and get into places that need lubrication. They usually come in a handy container with an applicator nozzle and a cap. We're not oiling a watch here... it's an open build engine. Oil runs off, gets slung off, gets wiped off along with the accumulated dirt and oil from the fuel. It never gets a chance to turn into varnish. Use whatever you want. Thanks for watching.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍🇧🇷
Des Français ici ??
Sorry, I do not understand your question and this will not translate for me.
@@RonaldWalters2010 your video is awesome i ordered the two same as you just i don't speak english the c google which essence and oil to use thank you
Your English is better than my French. :-) I use Coleman Lantern Fuel or Cigarette Lighter Fuel (like Zippo or Ronson) similar to White Gas (Petroleum Naphtha) or Unleaded Gasoline octane rating of 50 to 55 and a little Marvins Mystery Oil (google it) in the fuel (3-5% only) or some use a little WD-40. Note: Coleman Lantern Fuel does not contain the additives automotive gasoline contains. Sorry, American product names are not the same as European. Hope that helps!
@@RonaldWalters2010
thank you very much but for the oil to lubricate the engine we see the plug at 10:05 if you have any link to give me for the oil thank you
I do not see a plug at 10:05 . Note: The crankcase DOES NOT hold oil. I use a syringe at 5:20 with light weight oil like 3-in-one or singer sewing machine oil to drip a few drops of oil on the crankshaft and connecting rod.
I guess they never miss, huh?
Sorry, I had to.