It would be interesting to know your strength benchmarks before your climbing gains, that might help contextualize some of this. You mentioned a powerlifting background, so some of the major muscle groups would have been likely more developed than the average intermediate climber. Great concise information!
Ah yes. It’s hard to contextualize since when powerlifting I was also much heavier. At 155lbs my powerlifting PR’s were 385lbs squat, 215lbs bench and 405lbs deadlift. Hard to know what any of it means since I only powerlifted for about 8 months. Before powerlifting I was a 4 sport athlete in high school. I played basketball, volleyball, ultimate frisbee and track and field (100m, high jump, long jump, triple jump). Additionally I played club volleyball as well. Additionally there is an almost 2 year gap between the end of my high school athletics and when I started climbing, I spent most of that time partying and drinking so I was quite out of shape by the time I started. My instagram goes all the way back to my second day ever of bouldering so that might be a better way of knowing where I started from. In high school I was ~135lbs throughout all my sports. Grew to 155 at the peak of my powerlifting. Converted a lot of that too fat during my party days but maintained ~155lbs. Switched to a carnivore diet a couple years into climbing and now maintain around 140-147lbs (64-66kg)
@@louihuang4804 I got my first one arm March 2022, so less than 2 years after i started climbing in Aug 2020. Sure you could say finger strength was improving the whole time from since i started but it exploded when i implemented this training.
I also came to climbing after a lifting background, so I think it's all about increasing the mind body connection to the fingers. I'm going to try this.
Given this a try for the past 4 sessions, already feeling the effects specifically with rate of force development which has been a weak point for me. I've also included jumping onto beastmaker slopers (I recommend this for people, try to control the swing for as long as you can), some core activation, and one arm catches on big holds (for more shoulder work) which has given that extra bit of activation needed for my sessions.
Here I was thinking someone had broken the tendon adaptation barrier. Really impressive stuff, and the way you train your finger flexors is super smart. However, I feel like most normal climbers will encounter finger injuries when believing they can crank just as hard given a similar timescale. Thank you for sharing!
I would say that I had robust adaption before beginning this program but I would also argue that this style is much less impactful on the tendons. Tendon overuse happens when people lock their fingers or full crimp (ie not using their muscles). You will approach your muscular limit far before your tendon limit.
@@loiduongjrIf the muscle is generating extra force, is it not all going through the tendons anyway? They’re the last link in the chain and aren’t being bypassed, unless my understanding is poor
@@Alex-eu7jv Your muscles alone can not produce the same amount of force through a hold as, for example, a full crimp. A full crimp its literally creating leverage between your tendons. This is extra load. It is possible to still load the tendons too much when only using your muscles but I haven't seen anyone do it. Its just that your forearm muscles will fatigue before you can even put too much load through the tendons.
I've noticed that you are insanely strong for the climbs you're doing (same goes for me as I also have a powerlifting background)! Maybe new training arc? Technique/Coordo training?
Pushing quality content like crazy, appreciate all the information! I always struggle to find a proper warm up and training routine besides bouldering itself so I would slide into your DMs… if I had Instagram 😢 Keep it up!
Your warm up would be a training day for me, which is still insightful and something I can try to incorporate. Have you ever had overuse injuries like synovitis?
I had a bit during the first couple months of climbing. The warm up can be scaled and I would say that if even scaled it is too much than you simply aren't at a sufficient fitness level (if your goal is high performance). If you're just climbing and having fun than non of it matters.
@@loiduongjr I'm definitely not at the fitness level to do 1 arm pull ups and 1 arm finger hangs. But you're right, I'll just need to slowly scale it up incrementally and it'll add up eventually. Were there anything you did in particular that helped with the synovitis? I've had mine on the middle finger PIP for a year now. I've gotten used to it, but it limits me in crimpy climbs.
@@gantimothy244 I personally didn't do anything specific it just went away. But the science would say rest, rehab at lower intensity and cut back on volume.
great content dude! just got into tyler nelsons approach as well and your method is a very nice and convenient way of implementing this into your climbing routine. Ill start doing this as well. One question though regarding the gains in pulling strength, did you do some form of structured weighted pullup sessions as well or just this warmup routine and bouldering? Because the fingerstrenght gains are staggering, but the gain in pulling power is amazing too. Really like the vibe in your bouldering vids too, keep em coming dude!
I’m really glad it’s helping! Honestly a lot of people are always surprised by the finger stuff but I would actually say that pulling power is my genetic gift. At least conventionally, the amount I put into it is far less than what I’ve progressed to. So no I don’t do any other pulling supplementation except for climbing.
This was insanely good. I've seen tons of content from many people and its on par quality of information wise with what @bossclimbs is doing. I will try to write everything down as a routine with comments and post it there this week. Or maybe if you had a pre text/transcript i'm down for a share! Insane skills and hard work! Also you sure are genetically gifted tendons wise looking at your progress :)
Ah thank you! I’m glad I ended up posting it. Unfortunatly it was mostly off the dome so I don’t have a script. I don’t think I’m particularly genetically gifted. Maybe slightly in the muscles but that comes with its own disadvantages like huge legs lol. I think the only reason my tendons have survived is because I’m particular about my diet and recovery. Don’t forget I’ve essentially been training hard for over a decade!
@@loiduongjr Yeah who knows in the end its so hard to compute and process. For sure dialing sleep and nutrition make a world of difference and working really hard too. It actually does make all the difference but less so at a really high level. When you look at ppl like Hoseok Lee or Matt Wright who managed to climb that hard in such a short time they surely benefited of some specific genes avantages who help them built up that level of fitness without injuries. Another known exemple is someone like Usain Bolt or Yuri Van Gelder on the rings. they just didnt work harder than everyone else in their field. Their tendon capacity and explosivity associated with height and bone to muscle ratio/density has a huge play that isnt just factor of their own will. If you study genes theory related to athletic performance it's pretty extensive the impact it can has since it was shown that something akin to genes or behavioral transmission can impact something like deep sleep variation, protein synthesis, microbiome variations, muscle building and a whole lots of factor. Not even factoring thoses which are more or less out of reach materialistically for lots of people. Btw i'm mostly talking about that because same as the hoseok videos when there is claim of huge fast gains people could think it's achievable for them which is positive to have big goals and work toward them but they should be careful of accounting for a possible genetic or pre determined to the moment (ie prior sport/training) imbalance for their growth so they don't get injured. Which i know isnt possible but i thought of adding my 2 cents haha Dope content btw thanks for taking the time to answer
@@telkmx Oh for sure I'm not discounting genetics at all. The reason I say I'm not that gifted is because I've climbed with some real genetic freaks and I definitely don't have what they have haha
Principles: 1) Low volume, high intensity recruitment before climbing 2) Self-regulate warm-up based how you feel on that day, strength will fluctuate 3) For training/warmup purposes, prioritize muscle engagement over reliance on skeleton/ligaments/tendons Phase 1: Shoulder Stability and Tissue Warmup 1) 30-50 second bar hangs (alternating between active/passive, move actively). 2) Connective tissue warm-up, (not engaging muscles, just warming up connective tissue on each finger 3) Shoulder stability one-arm hangs (twisting to 0°/45°/90° and back, engaging shoulder muscles, not wrists). 4) Shoulder strength warmup: Loaded one-arm bar hangs (5 sec passive, 5 sec active). 5) Pull-ups (ramp up to near maximum effort, weighted or one arm) 6) Sets of 10 sec 3-finger drag, 10 sec half crimp, decreasing edge size until max. 7) Core activation (choose one): Front level, Leg Raises, L-Sit. 8) One-arm recruitment pulls (2 sets of max effort, disengage shoulders & biceps, isolate forearm flexors). Phase 2: Contact Strength Warm-up 9) Explosive Pull-Ups 10) Campus deadpoints with feet on ground (one-handed, ramp up to smaller rungs).
Hey Loi! Super informative video and cool to see how you've incorporated a variety of aspects into a functional warm-up. Similarly I come from a power lifting background and was curious what sorts of weight training you incorporate into your routine now, as well as how you manage the volume. In my experience training maximally for lifts seems to hinder my climbing so it's been a long road of picking the right exercises and volume to have suitable carryover without excessive recovery.
Unfortunately I can’t help you there. I don’t do any type of lifting anymore since I’m all in on climbing. If you feel like you really need to keep lifting then scheduling a slab session after big lift days will help minimize the effects but of course your cns will still be tapped.
Quality vid! It'd be really intriguing to see your advice on training and warming up for a V5 climber since that is roughly the average (and where I am at haha). Maybe it'd be cool to have a video of you helping someone at a V5 level figuring out how to train, warmp etc? Either way hope you keep making vid's, just subscribed ;)
Great idea! I think a video in the vein of "what would I do if I could go back" would be a great video. Also have a recap of my progression video in the plans.
What do you think of warming up close to your max on a tension block with weights instead of the hangboard for greater finger strenght? Doesn't that isolate certain unwanted muscle/tissue groups?
Although it is completely possible, i do not prefer this method because it's simply more time and more difficult to set up. It however is completely viable (as long as you pay special attention to your shoulder strength progression as well). There are certain caveats however, recruitment pulls is a different exercise than a no hang (block pull) (Overcoming isometric vs Controlled eccentric) and I am believe that an overcoming isometric style of training is superior (to a degree) because of certain factors. C4HP has a great video on this. If you DM on instagram I can send it to you!
Yo Loi crazy informative video. I wonder if you could do the max hangs trying to lift a weight of the ground. And if that would be easier to isolate the forearms.?
Hey thanks for the question! I answered a similar question below so I've copy pasted it here. Hope it helps! Although it is completely possible, i do not prefer this method because it's simply more time and more difficult to set up. It however is completely viable (as long as you pay special attention to your shoulder strength progression as well). There are certain caveats however, recruitment pulls is a different exercise than a no hang (block pull) (Overcoming isometric vs Controlled eccentric) and I am believe that an overcoming isometric style of training is superior (to a degree) because of certain factors. C4HP has a great video on this. If you DM on instagram I can send it to you!
When I first starting watching this, I said there was no way I am taking this much time to get warmed up. Then I started thinking about my current warmup. While I do more of a warmup than most, it always felt like it took me an additional 30-45 minutes on the wall to really feel engaged/recruited. So then I thought, why not take the time and do this and see where it goes. I am curious what your workouts are outside of this "warmup" and kilter/moonboard/spraywall training? Any dedicated hangboarding, weighted pullups, etc, or just plain trying hard on the wall? As a physical therapist, I fully agree that doing a little bit more often is generally better than trying to cram a bunch in all at once. Much easier for load management and injury prevention. Thanks for the thought provoking content! You have my subscription!
Thanks for the kind words. For now I don’t do any extra training besides this warm up except if you count the stretching at the start of the session. And yes that 30 minutes of on the wall warm up is why I started this because now I know I am fully warm, while warming up on the wall can have a lot of inconsistencies. There is something to be said about the movement learning from on the wall warm up but if you want to jump right in to projecting this I find is more efficient and easier to progressively overload and get stronger 💪.
Completely go with the flow except for my maximum efforts. I’ll make sure to take at least 4 min in between those. But I don’t time it I just feel it out.
I've recently increased it to 2 days on 1 day off, however for the first 2.5 years I could only physically climb 3 times a week. Your capacity will slowly grow over time.
In the beginning, did you ever feel like this would hinder your projecting session? Just imagining myself doing all these exercises before a climbing session. I think I would have drained like 25% of my tank before I even got onto the wall.
When I started I was also very scared that I’d be too tired for my session but that’s simply not the case. Think about how many times you give a max effort in a hard bouldering session. An additional 2 per body part will do nothing when you’re climbing for 3 hours. You can also move directly to max bouldering right after this warm up since you’re fully warm. You won’t need to climb a bunch to get warm. However everyone is different, if you’re a lower level climber, that extra movement volume might be exactly what you need (if you lack technique) but if you’re highly skilled already I think this would be a good way to get stronger.
Hello amazing video! I am curious on your thoughts regarding the light hangboarding 2x per day in the morning and night (refering to emil's video/routine). Is this something you have tried or do you have any thoughts about that? I am thinking of doing a light 10-15 min stretching and hangboarding routine (morning and night) along with climbing 4x per week. Just curious your thoughts, thanks!
I've found it helps a ton and principles of sports science would back it up for sure. I use to do them twice a day on off days and once on training days but I'm pretty lazy so I've found that the minimum effective dose for me is to just do them once on my rest days. This however only helps if you're getting enough sleep, enough nutrition and reducing your stress! Master the basics and everything else falls into line!
Indoor gym climbing I focus on comp stuff so I mostly float around the V8-V11 stuff just doing moves and emphasizing flashing. Outdoor I’ve boulder V9 outside. Haven’t had enough outdoor sessions though. I don’t quite moonboard that much but I’ve done a couple of V9s. best sesh is 2 V9s benchmarks (our board is shallow poured though). I haven’t seriously kiltered since last year but I’ve done 28 V9s and 8 V10s (1 V11 but I don’t count it because it’s soft). I’m a lot stronger now and I have some V12 projects that I’m working on right now.
I haven’t been climbing for so long so it’s an interesting question. When I started I climbed V7 outdoors and V8 in the gym and Kilter. I’ve climbed V9 outdoors now but my focus isn’t outdoors. I’m annoyed if I don’t flash V9 in my style. If it helps in comps I went from 23rd to 13th in Quebec for provincials. I really haven’t had time to grow into my strength because of comp season but this training season I’m sure I will send V12 on kilter and other hard things on 2024 moonbord
@@loiduongjr Interesting, am sure you'll be climbing way harder soon enough with that strength soon! So with this warm up in a year you've gone from doing gym v8s to flashing v9s in your style and i assume could bust out a v10 in a session and max like v11?. When did you start climbing?
@@qriz5 My best Kilter session was 2 V9's and 2 V10s but that was a while ago, My best recent session was 2 V9 moonboard benchmarks. I have some pretty great gym sessions too but it doesnt translate well into grades. I started climbing Aug 2020. If you check my instagram you can scroll all the way to the bottom and see everything from the beginning!
Hey Loi, great video! I have a question on the recruitment pulls portion if you don’t mind: I’m a v5 (barely) level climber with calisthenic background so quite a big difference between finger strength and pull strength: I can do one arm pull-ups but until not too long ago, 20 mm edge bw two handed was a challenge. I’ve been hangboarding using recruitment pulls for about 6 months and now I can hang from 15 mm edge body weight, which is some fair improvement! However when I’ve been doing recruitment pulls, I’ve been actively trying to pull the hold down (eg doing a one arm pull-up) with max intensity with the idea that forearm contraction is what resists my hand from opening up. When I try doing it without any shoulder or bicep engagement and just curling my fingers, I definitely still feel it but I think it’s a lot harder to do RPE 10 because my forearms are so much weaker and smaller, compared to just pulling with all the strength that I have (since I know my fingers are the limiting factor anyway). Do you think it’s still better to just isolate the forearms in my situation?
This is the perfect option for you! I think you’ll overcome the skill gap of learning a new exercise quickly. And your background makes you good candidate to actually do the exercise properly. Isolating the muscle will give you much better gains I think. Hope you stick with it!
At what point were you able to front lever and do a one arm pullup? was it before or after you started climbing? Did you have to train it or did it come after general strength buildup? Also do you have any training days where youre in the gym working the big muscle strengths or does it all get hit enough in your warmup?
I had a background in powerlifting (and partying) so I was heavy when I started. I achieved both feats approximately 2 years into climbing after losing that extra weight. For a brief period I did 1 training day but only because I physically could not climb 4 days a week. Once I could I stopped. I’d say I came in with a really strong base so I didn’t have to build up that strength. However board climbing (I’d suggest Kilter) is an amazing way to physically get strong
What about muscle imbalances? Like shouldn't you incorporate some antagonist workouts each week? Either way, this video makes me want to climb more. I only do about 2-3 sessions a week, but also try to do weightlifting with a push, pull and leg day throughout the week. My max climb has only been v8 after 5 years, so maybe i need to just climb more.
I follow C4HP’s take on this (www.camp4humanperformance.com/blog-2/opposition-training). I already had “strong enough” legs and pressing strength so I didn’t see it as useful for me but maybe that will eventually change.
I really do think that it can be scaled to any skill level. Although having someone their as guidance would be ideal for less experienced climbers/athletes.
how long into being able to do a one arm pull-up did it take for you to use it as a warm up 4 times a week? asking because I can do one arms on a strong day after rest but it's too close to a maximal feeling movement to consistently rep them like nothing. however! I do notice the days I perform them before climbing my climbing is significantly better, the mind body connection is always on point
My first ever one arm was March 2022. I could do them cold (but kinda sus/tweaky) probably around jan/feb 2023 I’d guess? Only really started recently using them as a warm up around Nov 2023.
As you progress in climbing your ability to handle training increases as well. The volume is so low that it is quite effective to do it multiple times a week.
I climb v12 and 8c outside but fuuck i can't even do a one arm pull up and stay on the middle edge of the beastmaker with an half crimp position :(, how many days a week did you train? Ahah i need some help, i already do some session only dedicated to strenght, but maybe i will quit those sessions and add this warmup as "strenght" session before every climbing training
It’s all about managing volume and limiting volume that’s not useful. Nowadays I attempt to climb 2 days on 1 day off but I take rest days whenever I feel like I need it. For the majority of my climbing 4 days a week was wholly sufficient. The reason that these exercises work are because compared to similar exercises they’re actually much less fatiguing (in terms of muscle damage). Low sets and low rep ranges will emphasize recruiting a high amount of muscle fibres while reducing the amount of muscle damage. When you do high volume work, you’re creating much more damage to your muscles which would be good if you want to get them big like a body builder but that’s not our goal. We trade muscle damage and fatigue for CNS fatigue essentially.
@@loiduongjr I typed a written version of the warmup routine, if you could look over it to see if I missed anything / got anything wrong that would be lit. also i have a few questions about set&rep ranges Principles: 1) Low volume, high intensity recruitment before climbing 2) Self-regulate warm-up based how you feel on that day, strength will fluctuate 3) For training/warmup purposes, prioritize muscle engagement over reliance on skeleton/ligaments/tendons Phase 1: Shoulder Stability and Tissue Warmup 1) 30-50 second bar hangs (alternating between active/passive, move actively). 2) Connective tissue warm-up, (not engaging muscles, just warming up connective tissue on each finger 3) Shoulder stability one-arm hangs (twisting to 0°/45°/90° and back, engaging shoulder muscles, not wrists). 4) Shoulder strength warmup: Loaded one-arm bar hangs (5 sec passive, 5 sec active). 5) Pull-ups (ramp up to near maximum effort, weighted or one arm) 6) Sets of 10 sec 3-finger drag, 10 sec half crimp, decreasing edge size until max. 7) Core activation (choose one): Front level, Leg Raises, L-Sit. 8) One-arm recruitment pulls (2 sets of max effort, disengage shoulders & biceps, isolate forearm flexors). Phase 2: Contact Strength Warm-up 9) Explosive Pull-Ups 10) Campus deadpoints with feet on ground (one-handed, ramp up to smaller rungs). Questions: 1) How many sets and reps for the loaded one-arm shoulder strength hangs? 2) How many sets&reps for high intensity exercises like weighted/one arm pull-ups, recruitment pulls, explosive pull-ups, deadpoints? Is it just a general go by feel until warm type thing? How many seconds are you holding the recruitment pulls for?
@@lucaa4480 It's really hard to say because I was quite fit before starting this routine (Consistent V8 kilter, projecting V9 and would send my first in a couple months). I started it around June 1st, 2022 and I pulled off one arm on the middle edge for the first time on June 22nd, 2022. That's obviously not realistic if you haven't had the background that I did. For my first one arm I just did it one day when i was goofing off with my friends and i surprised myself. The biggest key was that I had lost a lot of fat during that time. My first one arm was March 13th, 2022. I've had a decade of some pretty intense overall athletic training so that definitely helps a lot.
@@loiduongjr and I only have one last question before you answer to the previous guy who did a fantastic job summarising everything 😅, so you are saying that you aim to get a low volume excercise with good quality, but after the "warmup" you train for like 2-3 hours, so the volume of the training is quite high no?
Hi Loi, Do you think the growth rate of tendon is related to your forearm muscle mass? First of all, the two grow together. In addition, what I mean is that according to one of Emil's videos (th-cam.com/video/sBTI9qiH4UE/w-d-xo.html), he quickly improved his finger strength and finally came to the conclusion (in another of his videos), because it is He already had very strong forearm muscles, which allowed his finger tendons to grow rapidly after doing hangboarding. I'm saying there seems to be a proportional relationship between forearm muscle mass and the upper limit of the tendons. This is similar to your experience, because you were already a professional athlete before training finger strength and had great muscles and strength. For the same person, if the forearm muscles are not developed, he may focus on training finger strength and the effect will be very poor. What do you think? BTW great content, I often see you and your alumni at cafe bloc, allez up, and bloc shop. Cheers!
I don't think there is really any correlation. Having stronger fingers comes down to producing more force via the fore arm flexors + how efficient this power is transferred through the fingers (tendon stiffness). Most experts that I've listened too chalk up emils gains to better recovery (hanging was active recovery since the tendons recover better underload) and increases in tendon stiffness (his ability to transfer the force).
So you warm up for around 30 min before 2-3h climbing sessions, and you climb 4 times a week? I don't think the warm up is the reason of your progress. Sure it helps not getting injuried but the 2-3h sessions are way more stimulating than the warm up lol. Anyway, I know for a fact that if I trained 4x a week I would get injuried.
I used to only climb 3 times a week and I would also be destroyed if I tried to do 4. It’s all about stimulus and managing volume. And in any case there are tons of climbers who just climb but can’t come close to doing any of these strength feats.
@@loiduongjr Sure, you def doing something right in your warm-up/ training sesh. Just saying that the warm-up by itself isn't building v14 strength hehe
@@qweasd9153 I'd really argue that it is the main reason for the physical attributes. I see the warm up as physical training where I have the chance to progressively overload and I see climbing as a place to learn technique. You could argue being genetically gifted but I don't think that takes away from the execution of the plan.
I think this video has some really good insight into your current routine, but lacks insight into your actual progression. You start by saying you're going to "show the training I did to go from V6 finger strength to V14 finger strength", but other than saying "when I started I struggled on 15 mm two arm hangs" there's almost no information on your baseline or routine development. Because some time during this past year you went from struggling on 15 mm two arms to full blown one arm hangs... Ok when and actually how? Obviously before you could do that you must've been doing something else. Max hangs? After some single finger iso warm up you jump into alternating back to back 10 sec on the 15 mm. For those who can't you mention "find your max hang on the hardest level (edge) you can do". That's pretty vague. No mention of sets or rest times, just "back to back" hard cranking for 20 seconds. And then do the same thing but with a leg raise. No sets, no rest times. And then jump into even harder stuff. Would just be really interesting and helpful to actually know more about your progress, how you worked with overload etc. Otherwise it's kind of a whole lot of "crank with everything you got four times a week... But also listen to your body". Sorry it comes across as rude. As I said there's also some cool tips and exercise that I'll certainly give a go. Guess I found it a bit click baity and misleading in regards to the progression part.
If you follow me on Instagram, I have posted since my second day of climbing ever so you can see what I’ve done. Before this I’ve only occasional tried hangboarding but I would say I did zero finger training besides climbing. For sets I’m just saying what I did. Anything that’s not a front lever is my extrapolated guess. Holding a leg raise till failure from cold seems totally reasonable. Anything surrounding two finger hangs is also extrapolated because I quickly was able to do them. Doing a one arm recruitment hang won’t hurt if you’re starting off from a weaker point it’ll just take longer to see progress (hang). If you use a Tindeq you’d be able to measure the force your produce and that could help a lot.
It would be interesting to know your strength benchmarks before your climbing gains, that might help contextualize some of this.
You mentioned a powerlifting background, so some of the major muscle groups would have been likely more developed than the average intermediate climber.
Great concise information!
Ah yes. It’s hard to contextualize since when powerlifting I was also much heavier. At 155lbs my powerlifting PR’s were 385lbs squat, 215lbs bench and 405lbs deadlift. Hard to know what any of it means since I only powerlifted for about 8 months.
Before powerlifting I was a 4 sport athlete in high school. I played basketball, volleyball, ultimate frisbee and track and field (100m, high jump, long jump, triple jump). Additionally I played club volleyball as well.
Additionally there is an almost 2 year gap between the end of my high school athletics and when I started climbing, I spent most of that time partying and drinking so I was quite out of shape by the time I started. My instagram goes all the way back to my second day ever of bouldering so that might be a better way of knowing where I started from.
In high school I was ~135lbs throughout all my sports. Grew to 155 at the peak of my powerlifting. Converted a lot of that too fat during my party days but maintained ~155lbs. Switched to a carnivore diet a couple years into climbing and now maintain around 140-147lbs (64-66kg)
You got all that finger strength and the ability to do a 1 arm in 3 years then?
@@louihuang4804 I got my first one arm March 2022, so less than 2 years after i started climbing in Aug 2020. Sure you could say finger strength was improving the whole time from since i started but it exploded when i implemented this training.
bro in the lakers jersey couldnt fathom
😅😅😅
Literal favourite climbing TH-camr 🫶
Thank you so much! Hope to keep making these videos!
I also came to climbing after a lifting background, so I think it's all about increasing the mind body connection to the fingers. I'm going to try this.
Let me know how it goes!
giving the recipe away for free is so goated 🙌 this channel is gonna ascend
The best coach is the coach who doesn’t have a job haha. Hope it helps a lot!
Extremely good quality! The explanation are soo good 🔥
Merci Ariane 🙏🙏🙏
Given this a try for the past 4 sessions, already feeling the effects specifically with rate of force development which has been a weak point for me. I've also included jumping onto beastmaker slopers (I recommend this for people, try to control the swing for as long as you can), some core activation, and one arm catches on big holds (for more shoulder work) which has given that extra bit of activation needed for my sessions.
Glad it’s helping! One arm sloper jumps are a great idea!
Thank you. I currently climb v5 so I will be trying this training. I will come back in 6 months and see how much I have improved
I’m not sure if I would suggest this to your level yet! Just climbing will get you a lot of the way there!
hey any update?
How strong r u now
Thanks for all the insights.
My pleasure! 🙏
Great insight on warm-up from a strong climber like yourself, taking notes! 🤝. Content quality is great as well!
Thank you! Hope it helped!
That's the same gym I go to! I'll make sure to say hi if we cross paths. Much respect, thanks for all the advice!
For sure!! Sometimes I can be intense but if you give me a sec I’ll figure myself out haha. Hope to meet ya!
This was a really great video. Keep it up!
Thank you! Means a lot!
Hey Loi, I really liked this video, will definitely try it!
Glad I could inspire you! Hope it helps!
When's the 40-min stretching video drop?
Once I get back into the swing of things haha. Been getting over some early season hurdles haha
Here I was thinking someone had broken the tendon adaptation barrier. Really impressive stuff, and the way you train your finger flexors is super smart.
However, I feel like most normal climbers will encounter finger injuries when believing they can crank just as hard given a similar timescale.
Thank you for sharing!
I would say that I had robust adaption before beginning this program but I would also argue that this style is much less impactful on the tendons. Tendon overuse happens when people lock their fingers or full crimp (ie not using their muscles). You will approach your muscular limit far before your tendon limit.
@@loiduongjrIf the muscle is generating extra force, is it not all going through the tendons anyway? They’re the last link in the chain and aren’t being bypassed, unless my understanding is poor
@@Alex-eu7jv Your muscles alone can not produce the same amount of force through a hold as, for example, a full crimp. A full crimp its literally creating leverage between your tendons. This is extra load.
It is possible to still load the tendons too much when only using your muscles but I haven't seen anyone do it. Its just that your forearm muscles will fatigue before you can even put too much load through the tendons.
@@loiduongjr i think i understand now, thanks!
@@Alex-eu7jv No problem!
thanks for this informative vid
quality video. you deserve some views m8.
Hopefully I’ll keep em coming!
Awesome video man! Thanks so much for sharing this warm up, I'm definitely gonna give it a try!
Glad it helped !!
I've noticed that you are insanely strong for the climbs you're doing (same goes for me as I also have a powerlifting background)! Maybe new training arc? Technique/Coordo training?
It’s mostly a matter of training age. I am not this strong most of the time. My PR’s surround peaking phases.
Pushing quality content like crazy, appreciate all the information!
I always struggle to find a proper warm up and training routine besides bouldering itself so I would slide into your DMs… if I had Instagram 😢
Keep it up!
Awe I hope the video helped a lot! Thanks for watching!
Your warm up would be a training day for me, which is still insightful and something I can try to incorporate. Have you ever had overuse injuries like synovitis?
I had a bit during the first couple months of climbing. The warm up can be scaled and I would say that if even scaled it is too much than you simply aren't at a sufficient fitness level (if your goal is high performance). If you're just climbing and having fun than non of it matters.
@@loiduongjr I'm definitely not at the fitness level to do 1 arm pull ups and 1 arm finger hangs. But you're right, I'll just need to slowly scale it up incrementally and it'll add up eventually. Were there anything you did in particular that helped with the synovitis? I've had mine on the middle finger PIP for a year now. I've gotten used to it, but it limits me in crimpy climbs.
@@gantimothy244 I personally didn't do anything specific it just went away. But the science would say rest, rehab at lower intensity and cut back on volume.
great content dude! just got into tyler nelsons approach as well and your method is a very nice and convenient way of implementing this into your climbing routine. Ill start doing this as well.
One question though regarding the gains in pulling strength, did you do some form of structured weighted pullup sessions as well or just this warmup routine and bouldering? Because the fingerstrenght gains are staggering, but the gain in pulling power is amazing too.
Really like the vibe in your bouldering vids too, keep em coming dude!
I’m really glad it’s helping! Honestly a lot of people are always surprised by the finger stuff but I would actually say that pulling power is my genetic gift. At least conventionally, the amount I put into it is far less than what I’ve progressed to. So no I don’t do any other pulling supplementation except for climbing.
This was insanely good. I've seen tons of content from many people and its on par quality of information wise with what @bossclimbs is doing.
I will try to write everything down as a routine with comments and post it there this week. Or maybe if you had a pre text/transcript i'm down for a share!
Insane skills and hard work! Also you sure are genetically gifted tendons wise looking at your progress :)
Ah thank you! I’m glad I ended up posting it. Unfortunatly it was mostly off the dome so I don’t have a script.
I don’t think I’m particularly genetically gifted. Maybe slightly in the muscles but that comes with its own disadvantages like huge legs lol. I think the only reason my tendons have survived is because I’m particular about my diet and recovery.
Don’t forget I’ve essentially been training hard for over a decade!
@@loiduongjr Yeah who knows in the end its so hard to compute and process. For sure dialing sleep and nutrition make a world of difference and working really hard too.
It actually does make all the difference but less so at a really high level. When you look at ppl like Hoseok Lee or Matt Wright who managed to climb that hard in such a short time they surely benefited of some specific genes avantages who help them built up that level of fitness without injuries.
Another known exemple is someone like Usain Bolt or Yuri Van Gelder on the rings. they just didnt work harder than everyone else in their field. Their tendon capacity and explosivity associated with height and bone to muscle ratio/density has a huge play that isnt just factor of their own will.
If you study genes theory related to athletic performance it's pretty extensive the impact it can has since it was shown that something akin to genes or behavioral transmission can impact something like deep sleep variation, protein synthesis, microbiome variations, muscle building and a whole lots of factor. Not even factoring thoses which are more or less out of reach materialistically for lots of people.
Btw i'm mostly talking about that because same as the hoseok videos when there is claim of huge fast gains people could think it's achievable for them which is positive to have big goals and work toward them but they should be careful of accounting for a possible genetic or pre determined to the moment (ie prior sport/training) imbalance for their growth so they don't get injured. Which i know isnt possible but i thought of adding my 2 cents haha
Dope content btw thanks for taking the time to answer
@@telkmx Oh for sure I'm not discounting genetics at all. The reason I say I'm not that gifted is because I've climbed with some real genetic freaks and I definitely don't have what they have haha
Principles:
1) Low volume, high intensity recruitment before climbing
2) Self-regulate warm-up based how you feel on that day, strength will fluctuate
3) For training/warmup purposes, prioritize muscle engagement over reliance on skeleton/ligaments/tendons
Phase 1: Shoulder Stability and Tissue Warmup
1) 30-50 second bar hangs (alternating between active/passive, move actively).
2) Connective tissue warm-up, (not engaging muscles, just warming up connective tissue on each finger
3) Shoulder stability one-arm hangs (twisting to 0°/45°/90° and back, engaging shoulder muscles, not wrists).
4) Shoulder strength warmup: Loaded one-arm bar hangs (5 sec passive, 5 sec active).
5) Pull-ups (ramp up to near maximum effort, weighted or one arm)
6) Sets of 10 sec 3-finger drag, 10 sec half crimp, decreasing edge size until max.
7) Core activation (choose one): Front level, Leg Raises, L-Sit.
8) One-arm recruitment pulls (2 sets of max effort, disengage shoulders & biceps, isolate forearm flexors).
Phase 2: Contact Strength Warm-up
9) Explosive Pull-Ups
10) Campus deadpoints with feet on ground (one-handed, ramp up to smaller rungs).
@@Josh_A_Lu thanks a lot !!
Wow, this is the video from you that i really wanted! very clear language :) Let's get to work :p
Thanks Noah! I hope it helps you a lot!
Nice in less than a year I will be climbing V19
First step is believing 😮💨😮💨
Hey Loi! Super informative video and cool to see how you've incorporated a variety of aspects into a functional warm-up.
Similarly I come from a power lifting background and was curious what sorts of weight training you incorporate into your routine now, as well as how you manage the volume.
In my experience training maximally for lifts seems to hinder my climbing so it's been a long road of picking the right exercises and volume to have suitable carryover without excessive recovery.
Unfortunately I can’t help you there. I don’t do any type of lifting anymore since I’m all in on climbing.
If you feel like you really need to keep lifting then scheduling a slab session after big lift days will help minimize the effects but of course your cns will still be tapped.
Omg I was at that gym while that red boulder behind you in the intro was up and was so shut down by it. You know anyone who actually got that one?
I know quite a few people that got through it. Most people seemed to have an issue with the end.
Quality vid! It'd be really intriguing to see your advice on training and warming up for a V5 climber since that is roughly the average (and where I am at haha).
Maybe it'd be cool to have a video of you helping someone at a V5 level figuring out how to train, warmp etc?
Either way hope you keep making vid's, just subscribed ;)
Great idea! I think a video in the vein of "what would I do if I could go back" would be a great video. Also have a recap of my progression video in the plans.
@@loiduongjr yeah exactly that'd be amazing!
Now I know how to warm up
Bro you do this and you become best climber in canada in 1 year.
What's your routine @tomagagne7438 ? haha
@@telkmx His routine is show up and hes warm lol
Yes
What do you think of warming up close to your max on a tension block with weights instead of the hangboard for greater finger strenght? Doesn't that isolate certain unwanted muscle/tissue groups?
Although it is completely possible, i do not prefer this method because it's simply more time and more difficult to set up. It however is completely viable (as long as you pay special attention to your shoulder strength progression as well). There are certain caveats however, recruitment pulls is a different exercise than a no hang (block pull) (Overcoming isometric vs Controlled eccentric) and I am believe that an overcoming isometric style of training is superior (to a degree) because of certain factors. C4HP has a great video on this. If you DM on instagram I can send it to you!
Yo Loi crazy informative video. I wonder if you could do the max hangs trying to lift a weight of the ground. And if that would be easier to isolate the forearms.?
Hey thanks for the question! I answered a similar question below so I've copy pasted it here. Hope it helps!
Although it is completely possible, i do not prefer this method because it's simply more time and more difficult to set up. It however is completely viable (as long as you pay special attention to your shoulder strength progression as well). There are certain caveats however, recruitment pulls is a different exercise than a no hang (block pull) (Overcoming isometric vs Controlled eccentric) and I am believe that an overcoming isometric style of training is superior (to a degree) because of certain factors. C4HP has a great video on this. If you DM on instagram I can send it to you!
What kinda stretching mobility are you doing before the warm up? It’s something i definitely need to do but i’m a bit clueless with it tbh
I do a full lower body routine, mostly emphasizing the hips. I’ll also do them loaded sometimes which I find helps a ton.
When I first starting watching this, I said there was no way I am taking this much time to get warmed up. Then I started thinking about my current warmup. While I do more of a warmup than most, it always felt like it took me an additional 30-45 minutes on the wall to really feel engaged/recruited. So then I thought, why not take the time and do this and see where it goes.
I am curious what your workouts are outside of this "warmup" and kilter/moonboard/spraywall training? Any dedicated hangboarding, weighted pullups, etc, or just plain trying hard on the wall? As a physical therapist, I fully agree that doing a little bit more often is generally better than trying to cram a bunch in all at once. Much easier for load management and injury prevention. Thanks for the thought provoking content! You have my subscription!
Thanks for the kind words. For now I don’t do any extra training besides this warm up except if you count the stretching at the start of the session. And yes that 30 minutes of on the wall warm up is why I started this because now I know I am fully warm, while warming up on the wall can have a lot of inconsistencies. There is something to be said about the movement learning from on the wall warm up but if you want to jump right in to projecting this I find is more efficient and easier to progressively overload and get stronger 💪.
can we get the stretching tutorial next?
Ouuu that could be a good one!
@@loiduongjryes plss:D
Just wondering if you have fixed pauses between excercises or you go with the flow. Very interesting video!!
Completely go with the flow except for my maximum efforts. I’ll make sure to take at least 4 min in between those. But I don’t time it I just feel it out.
do u "only" climb 4times per week?
I've recently increased it to 2 days on 1 day off, however for the first 2.5 years I could only physically climb 3 times a week. Your capacity will slowly grow over time.
In the beginning, did you ever feel like this would hinder your projecting session? Just imagining myself doing all these exercises before a climbing session. I think I would have drained like 25% of my tank before I even got onto the wall.
When I started I was also very scared that I’d be too tired for my session but that’s simply not the case. Think about how many times you give a max effort in a hard bouldering session. An additional 2 per body part will do nothing when you’re climbing for 3 hours.
You can also move directly to max bouldering right after this warm up since you’re fully warm. You won’t need to climb a bunch to get warm. However everyone is different, if you’re a lower level climber, that extra movement volume might be exactly what you need (if you lack technique) but if you’re highly skilled already I think this would be a good way to get stronger.
Hahahaha the guy behind 4:40
his reaccions are amezing haha
Don't forget the mobility!!
Yes! I said it quickly at the beginning. I do about 30-40 min of mobility before the warm up.
@@loiduongjr oh yeah right mb I tought you said stretching🤔
how long is each of the 2 sets 1 rep max effort hangs? 6 seconds?
Till max force decreases
Hello amazing video! I am curious on your thoughts regarding the light hangboarding 2x per day in the morning and night (refering to emil's video/routine). Is this something you have tried or do you have any thoughts about that? I am thinking of doing a light 10-15 min stretching and hangboarding routine (morning and night) along with climbing 4x per week. Just curious your thoughts, thanks!
I've found it helps a ton and principles of sports science would back it up for sure. I use to do them twice a day on off days and once on training days but I'm pretty lazy so I've found that the minimum effective dose for me is to just do them once on my rest days. This however only helps if you're getting enough sleep, enough nutrition and reducing your stress! Master the basics and everything else falls into line!
What grade do you currently climb, indoor/outdoor/moonboard/kilter?
Indoor gym climbing I focus on comp stuff so I mostly float around the V8-V11 stuff just doing moves and emphasizing flashing.
Outdoor I’ve boulder V9 outside. Haven’t had enough outdoor sessions though.
I don’t quite moonboard that much but I’ve done a couple of V9s. best sesh is 2 V9s benchmarks (our board is shallow poured though).
I haven’t seriously kiltered since last year but I’ve done 28 V9s and 8 V10s (1 V11 but I don’t count it because it’s soft). I’m a lot stronger now and I have some V12 projects that I’m working on right now.
@@loiduongjr cool thanks for the reply!
What is your indoor/outdoor flash grade and project grade as well as hardest grade you can send in a single session compared to before?
I haven’t been climbing for so long so it’s an interesting question. When I started I climbed V7 outdoors and V8 in the gym and Kilter. I’ve climbed V9 outdoors now but my focus isn’t outdoors. I’m annoyed if I don’t flash V9 in my style. If it helps in comps I went from 23rd to 13th in Quebec for provincials. I really haven’t had time to grow into my strength because of comp season but this training season I’m sure I will send V12 on kilter and other hard things on 2024 moonbord
@@loiduongjr Interesting, am sure you'll be climbing way harder soon enough with that strength soon! So with this warm up in a year you've gone from doing gym v8s to flashing v9s in your style and i assume could bust out a v10 in a session and max like v11?. When did you start climbing?
@@qriz5 My best Kilter session was 2 V9's and 2 V10s but that was a while ago, My best recent session was 2 V9 moonboard benchmarks. I have some pretty great gym sessions too but it doesnt translate well into grades. I started climbing Aug 2020. If you check my instagram you can scroll all the way to the bottom and see everything from the beginning!
Hey Loi, great video! I have a question on the recruitment pulls portion if you don’t mind:
I’m a v5 (barely) level climber with calisthenic background so quite a big difference between finger strength and pull strength: I can do one arm pull-ups but until not too long ago, 20 mm edge bw two handed was a challenge. I’ve been hangboarding using recruitment pulls for about 6 months and now I can hang from 15 mm edge body weight, which is some fair improvement! However when I’ve been doing recruitment pulls, I’ve been actively trying to pull the hold down (eg doing a one arm pull-up) with max intensity with the idea that forearm contraction is what resists my hand from opening up. When I try doing it without any shoulder or bicep engagement and just curling my fingers, I definitely still feel it but I think it’s a lot harder to do RPE 10 because my forearms are so much weaker and smaller, compared to just pulling with all the strength that I have (since I know my fingers are the limiting factor anyway). Do you think it’s still better to just isolate the forearms in my situation?
This is the perfect option for you! I think you’ll overcome the skill gap of learning a new exercise quickly. And your background makes you good candidate to actually do the exercise properly. Isolating the muscle will give you much better gains I think. Hope you stick with it!
ah okay, front levers and one arm pull ups for warm ups, and 30 minutes is basicly the lenght of my traning session. rip ;(((
Key is to use the regressions suitable to your own level!
At what point were you able to front lever and do a one arm pullup? was it before or after you started climbing? Did you have to train it or did it come after general strength buildup?
Also do you have any training days where youre in the gym working the big muscle strengths or does it all get hit enough in your warmup?
I had a background in powerlifting (and partying) so I was heavy when I started. I achieved both feats approximately 2 years into climbing after losing that extra weight. For a brief period I did 1 training day but only because I physically could not climb 4 days a week. Once I could I stopped. I’d say I came in with a really strong base so I didn’t have to build up that strength. However board climbing (I’d suggest Kilter) is an amazing way to physically get strong
What about muscle imbalances? Like shouldn't you incorporate some antagonist workouts each week? Either way, this video makes me want to climb more. I only do about 2-3 sessions a week, but also try to do weightlifting with a push, pull and leg day throughout the week. My max climb has only been v8 after 5 years, so maybe i need to just climb more.
I follow C4HP’s take on this (www.camp4humanperformance.com/blog-2/opposition-training). I already had “strong enough” legs and pressing strength so I didn’t see it as useful for me but maybe that will eventually change.
To whom would you recommend this warm up?
I really do think that it can be scaled to any skill level. Although having someone their as guidance would be ideal for less experienced climbers/athletes.
how long into being able to do a one arm pull-up did it take for you to use it as a warm up 4 times a week? asking because I can do one arms on a strong day after rest but it's too close to a maximal feeling movement to consistently rep them like nothing. however! I do notice the days I perform them before climbing my climbing is significantly better, the mind body connection is always on point
My first ever one arm was March 2022. I could do them cold (but kinda sus/tweaky) probably around jan/feb 2023 I’d guess? Only really started recently using them as a warm up around Nov 2023.
4 times a week means you will climb and Hangboard 2 days in a row atleast once. R u fully recovered in 1 day or why do u do two days in a row.
As you progress in climbing your ability to handle training increases as well. The volume is so low that it is quite effective to do it multiple times a week.
@@loiduongjr oh cool, also if I want to loose weight will I still be able to gain strength in a calorie deficit
@@timmyant2537 look into body recomposition and eating at a calorie level for your lean body mass. I personally don’t count any calories.
I climb v12 and 8c outside but fuuck i can't even do a one arm pull up and stay on the middle edge of the beastmaker with an half crimp position :(, how many days a week did you train? Ahah i need some help, i already do some session only dedicated to strenght, but maybe i will quit those sessions and add this warmup as "strenght" session before every climbing training
It’s all about managing volume and limiting volume that’s not useful. Nowadays I attempt to climb 2 days on 1 day off but I take rest days whenever I feel like I need it. For the majority of my climbing 4 days a week was wholly sufficient.
The reason that these exercises work are because compared to similar exercises they’re actually much less fatiguing (in terms of muscle damage). Low sets and low rep ranges will emphasize recruiting a high amount of muscle fibres while reducing the amount of muscle damage. When you do high volume work, you’re creating much more damage to your muscles which would be good if you want to get them big like a body builder but that’s not our goal.
We trade muscle damage and fatigue for CNS fatigue essentially.
@@loiduongjrok thanks and how much time it took to you to do your first one arm pull up and one arm hang on the 22mm doing this warm up?
@@loiduongjr
I typed a written version of the warmup routine, if you could look over it to see if I missed anything / got anything wrong that would be lit. also i have a few questions about set&rep ranges
Principles:
1) Low volume, high intensity recruitment before climbing
2) Self-regulate warm-up based how you feel on that day, strength will fluctuate
3) For training/warmup purposes, prioritize muscle engagement over reliance on skeleton/ligaments/tendons
Phase 1: Shoulder Stability and Tissue Warmup
1) 30-50 second bar hangs (alternating between active/passive, move actively).
2) Connective tissue warm-up, (not engaging muscles, just warming up connective tissue on each finger
3) Shoulder stability one-arm hangs (twisting to 0°/45°/90° and back, engaging shoulder muscles, not wrists).
4) Shoulder strength warmup: Loaded one-arm bar hangs (5 sec passive, 5 sec active).
5) Pull-ups (ramp up to near maximum effort, weighted or one arm)
6) Sets of 10 sec 3-finger drag, 10 sec half crimp, decreasing edge size until max.
7) Core activation (choose one): Front level, Leg Raises, L-Sit.
8) One-arm recruitment pulls (2 sets of max effort, disengage shoulders & biceps, isolate forearm flexors).
Phase 2: Contact Strength Warm-up
9) Explosive Pull-Ups
10) Campus deadpoints with feet on ground (one-handed, ramp up to smaller rungs).
Questions:
1) How many sets and reps for the loaded one-arm shoulder strength hangs?
2) How many sets&reps for high intensity exercises like weighted/one arm pull-ups, recruitment pulls, explosive pull-ups, deadpoints? Is it just a general go by feel until warm type thing? How many seconds are you holding the recruitment pulls for?
@@lucaa4480 It's really hard to say because I was quite fit before starting this routine (Consistent V8 kilter, projecting V9 and would send my first in a couple months). I started it around June 1st, 2022 and I pulled off one arm on the middle edge for the first time on June 22nd, 2022. That's obviously not realistic if you haven't had the background that I did.
For my first one arm I just did it one day when i was goofing off with my friends and i surprised myself. The biggest key was that I had lost a lot of fat during that time. My first one arm was March 13th, 2022.
I've had a decade of some pretty intense overall athletic training so that definitely helps a lot.
@@loiduongjr and I only have one last question before you answer to the previous guy who did a fantastic job summarising everything 😅, so you are saying that you aim to get a low volume excercise with good quality, but after the "warmup" you train for like 2-3 hours, so the volume of the training is quite high no?
how long are you resting in between these excersises?
Mostly vibing it. Maybe 30sec-1min. Longer for the try hard max efforts. Maybe 3-4 min.
bro got the costco ketchup drip no cap
idek what that means 😭
White lebron james impressed by your 3 finger drag front levers lol
Me too tho
Haha thanks 🙏
Hi Loi,
Do you think the growth rate of tendon is related to your forearm muscle mass? First of all, the two grow together. In addition, what I mean is that according to one of Emil's videos (th-cam.com/video/sBTI9qiH4UE/w-d-xo.html), he quickly improved his finger strength and finally came to the conclusion (in another of his videos), because it is He already had very strong forearm muscles, which allowed his finger tendons to grow rapidly after doing hangboarding. I'm saying there seems to be a proportional relationship between forearm muscle mass and the upper limit of the tendons. This is similar to your experience, because you were already a professional athlete before training finger strength and had great muscles and strength. For the same person, if the forearm muscles are not developed, he may focus on training finger strength and the effect will be very poor. What do you think?
BTW great content, I often see you and your alumni at cafe bloc, allez up, and bloc shop. Cheers!
I don't think there is really any correlation. Having stronger fingers comes down to producing more force via the fore arm flexors + how efficient this power is transferred through the fingers (tendon stiffness). Most experts that I've listened too chalk up emils gains to better recovery (hanging was active recovery since the tendons recover better underload) and increases in tendon stiffness (his ability to transfer the force).
@@loiduongjr Informative. Thanks a lot!
u my bro is everything cool but hair❤
I needed a haircut at this point haha
Fusion ha
That’s a V2 in my gym.
Always 😉
So you warm up for around 30 min before 2-3h climbing sessions, and you climb 4 times a week? I don't think the warm up is the reason of your progress. Sure it helps not getting injuried but the 2-3h sessions are way more stimulating than the warm up lol. Anyway, I know for a fact that if I trained 4x a week I would get injuried.
I used to only climb 3 times a week and I would also be destroyed if I tried to do 4. It’s all about stimulus and managing volume. And in any case there are tons of climbers who just climb but can’t come close to doing any of these strength feats.
@@loiduongjr Sure, you def doing something right in your warm-up/ training sesh. Just saying that the warm-up by itself isn't building v14 strength hehe
@@qweasd9153 I'd really argue that it is the main reason for the physical attributes. I see the warm up as physical training where I have the chance to progressively overload and I see climbing as a place to learn technique. You could argue being genetically gifted but I don't think that takes away from the execution of the plan.
I think this video has some really good insight into your current routine, but lacks insight into your actual progression. You start by saying you're going to "show the training I did to go from V6 finger strength to V14 finger strength", but other than saying "when I started I struggled on 15 mm two arm hangs" there's almost no information on your baseline or routine development. Because some time during this past year you went from struggling on 15 mm two arms to full blown one arm hangs... Ok when and actually how? Obviously before you could do that you must've been doing something else. Max hangs?
After some single finger iso warm up you jump into alternating back to back 10 sec on the 15 mm. For those who can't you mention "find your max hang on the hardest level (edge) you can do". That's pretty vague. No mention of sets or rest times, just "back to back" hard cranking for 20 seconds. And then do the same thing but with a leg raise. No sets, no rest times. And then jump into even harder stuff.
Would just be really interesting and helpful to actually know more about your progress, how you worked with overload etc. Otherwise it's kind of a whole lot of "crank with everything you got four times a week... But also listen to your body".
Sorry it comes across as rude. As I said there's also some cool tips and exercise that I'll certainly give a go. Guess I found it a bit click baity and misleading in regards to the progression part.
If you follow me on Instagram, I have posted since my second day of climbing ever so you can see what I’ve done. Before this I’ve only occasional tried hangboarding but I would say I did zero finger training besides climbing.
For sets I’m just saying what I did. Anything that’s not a front lever is my extrapolated guess. Holding a leg raise till failure from cold seems totally reasonable.
Anything surrounding two finger hangs is also extrapolated because I quickly was able to do them. Doing a one arm recruitment hang won’t hurt if you’re starting off from a weaker point it’ll just take longer to see progress (hang). If you use a Tindeq you’d be able to measure the force your produce and that could help a lot.