Engines like this are often more fun in a true street car. Low maintenance, runs on pump swill, plenty of torque and no obnoxious exhaust note for the neighbors to complain about.
Nice build ! I just dyno'd my 388 sbc jet boat build. It's zero deck .039 quench 10.6 compression. 4 relief flat top Icon pistons. The heads are what I had laying around and are considered wrong for this combo. Old school Victor Jr 220cc race units with .208/.160 valves, 5 angle grind. The head ports are bigger than the Air Gap intake ports. No material on the intake to match so I left it alone and used fel pro-1206 intake gaskets. The cam is a step nose retainer plate Comp billet core with iron gear. 2 degrees advanced, 230/236 , 598/598 on a 113 LSA. 1.5 comp ultra magnum steel rockers. I used low buck Elgin drop in roller lifters with factory dog bone retainers and tray. The valve springs are what #'s worked. Crate 502 GM BBC springs. It ended up liking 38* timing and a 1-3/4 open spacer on the stock Air Gap intake. Carb is a Quick Fuel QR mechanical 750. Secondary jets are 80 pinned at .090". Primary air bleeds are .031" sec are .035. Made 474 torque /4900 475 hp /5400
That engine makes more than enough power to break every factory drivetrain piece behind it despite being a mild build. Nice work build target achieved!
I've broken the spider gears of the old 7.5 inch 10 bolt. Right at the starting line doing a dry hop. That little 350 is a easy 12-13 second engine in that firebird.
Not bad, by the time you throw an alternator and belt driven water pump and power steering pump, torque converter, trans and drivetrain it will have about 330hp to the wheels
Excellent low-budget build!! Congratulations, Eric. Nicely done. Surprised me with lower compression & small cubic inch. Great video & dyno info as well. Thank you
Great numbers with a 215 cam ! I think with Holly controlling the timing and fuel and 1 5/8 headers it could see 440 tq.that is a great combination for a street car!Good job Eric and thanks for sharing 👍
I'd say the intake was the restriction since the spacers didn't change anything,, a 604 crate motor blueprinted will be in the 440 range both for HP and TQ with a single plane intake ,, 750 carb ,, did see one make 451 hp , matched the track record so I think it was an accurate Dyno run ,,604 crate cam is 208/222-112 @050 , 1.5 rocker , 490 lift range ,, they have around the same compression, ,,
What I've run into was decades ago I tore down a 350, and to make a long story short, didn't pay attention to mixing up a short headbolt with the oil pump bolt, which is a little longer and pushed into the main bearing, deforming it. But original pump. Just smoothed out. Now I just get a stud for the pump
Lots of similarities 360” sbc 200ik’s edelbrock rpm air gap Wilson 4 hole 2”spacer 750 hp no power valve locked out 38 degrees probe .125” domes comp solid roller 254/260 108 lobe sep. in an 85 Firebird that was a 2.8 4.10 gears 275 drag radials th350 with tci 3800 10” ran a beat so far of a 10.98 at 123 1.48 60’ with foot brake.
I only know what i been told and seen on some dyno charts . First off is your better off with a bit smaller cam and better heads . A good set of heads can make a cam carry out farther than it normally will . So this is in my option for the dyno reading here thanks for the videos
The heads Eric has on this build are good for a easy 600 hp ,so better heads than this I DNT think would improve anything on this build ,these heads the way he ported them are allready way overkill
Hi Per U Tek Tik pistons The heads are not too big.....big flow out of a relatively small port means big velocity. Add in the dual plane intake it will pull on the carb hard.
Why would you guess so low lol there's a big misconception that a gen1 sbc can't make power and that's just absurd lol every young kid thinks a LS makes 1000hp and a gen 1 makes 150hp lol
@@jonathanlawson4667 lol I know right. The advantage the LS has is the stock heads flow great and they’re stronger but you can build a gen 1 to make a ton of power also. I was actually expecting to see little more of it.
@@ryangulley2051 it's not leaps and bounds lol you can splay bolt a sbc and it's just as strong. The sbc still beats the LS by leaps and bounds today my friend just depends on how you build them. Sbc won KD this last weekend 13K race and beat out all those LS you speak about and the sbc running a flipping carb as well 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you guys who say that nonsense obviously haven't ever built anything before
@@jonathanlawson4667 For a gen 1 to make the same it takes more cam timing than the ls thats all. See guys get told on forums to replace thier BBC or 400 with a junkyard 5.3 and get pissed when the car can barely break 13s. haha
Thank you for making these videos. I know it takes considerable time, and there is never enough appreciation, but I get so much from your videos. I love the humility with your 'I am not superman' attitude. To us amateur engine builders, you are not just superman, you are closer to a God. Thank you again and keep them coming. Thank you!
I built a stock cast piston 350 with stock vortec heads,howards hydr roller 510 lift,summit air gap intake ,670 avenger, summit 1 5/8 headers.made 415hp 425 trq.only spun it to 5,500.the vortec heads do a good job of making good power for people with a low budget. Use same combo with a set of alluminum vortec head with a little more compression (quench) it would make about 50 more hp
That HP seems extreme for who it's for, I would think some 1.94 heads, flat tops, something like a 275 hp 327 cam, 600 cfm carb would be around 300 hp, better low end response and gas milage. My two cents...
Basically I built the same engine Vortec L31 truck roller engine because I was afraid of all the cam failures lately. Same pistons stock bore same rings .024" quench and 9.72-1 compression according to the Diamond Pistons cal. sheet .028" chevy performance head gaskets and same bearings and Lunati 20080721 cam 270/278 and 515/530 and AFR enforcer heads. I have yet to install it. It's a tried and true recipe from many youtube vids and it makes from 413 to 440 hp depenging on the dyno etc. I'm putting it in a 1989 Chevy C2500 truck with a 700R4 with a 2000 stall Hughes converter and a stock 373 gear rear end and should be a tire fryer and fun to drive and dependable. The orig. TBI engine was 190HP and should be night and day difference. Thanks for the dyno Video.
Hyper U tech tick how we say it around these parts. Or Hypertechs for short. I painted my first engine build yellow back around 40yrs ago. It was a 400 Pontiac from a 67 Firebird. Ran pretty good for a kid building it. I had a uncle that had a 69 C-10 drag truck he raced on the street back in the early 80s, it had a tunnelram equipped 377ci SBC in it putting out 600+hp with a Jerico 5spd in it. The engine was painted yellow. He shifted that thing around 8800rpm. Ran mid 6s in the 8th, I was impressed with it, so I painted my engine yellow too. It was a popular engine color choice back in the day.
The cap threads get broken or distorted from the wrong pump bolt being installed. The two odd SBC headbolts get mixed up with others on the engine. The oil pump bolt fits the head in the oil return hole, but the head bolt comes up a bit short if used in the oil pump.
Hi Eric, The people that are questioning your choices I guess don't know how well your name and reputation carries in motorsports! It's not like you're a newbee .Thanks for your Knowledge and sharing it Eric!!👍👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing Eric! enjoyed the video. I wouldn't have thought you would have pinging issues as the quench is really loose for a NA motor and larger quench areas help with detonation and allow for a bigger tuning window.
What I believe happened with the oil pump bolt, and I've seen it before, they used a short outer 4 bolt main bolt and not an oil pump bolt. They're not long enough. Only catch 1/4" of threads or less and once pump vibrates it breaks those protruding threads. When laying out your bolts for mains make sure there isn't one longer one! That's the oil pump bolt! It'll fit the main because those bolt holes are open and that bolt won't bottom out. Oil pump bolt is about 1/4" longer. I'm retired machinist. Seen this at least 6 times.
I think the wide lsa and small dual plane calmed it down and smoothed it out for a very flat torque curve. I think it's a great drop it in, go have fun engine, I want one! I would have though the big numbers would kill bottom end, good thing the engine didn't care what I thought. One tip....never tell the engine IT'S NOT AN LS-XX... and it will continue to make you happy.
Interesting dyno results. I'm building a 385 similar to this with about the same intent but I don't requirea perfectly smooth idle. Just an 87 octane burner with stock stall and vacuum for the creature comforts. I have Afr's version of your heads on order. Planing on a simple 60 grit chamber and bowl blend. Under 9.5 compression for 87 but will be about. 040 quench. Pistons will probably be the thin ring KB hyper 18cc dish. Eyeballing something like the lunati voodoo 219/227 on a 112lsa. With a 1.55/1.6 rocker arm combination would put the lift about. 549int/.548exh. Waiting to spec the heads before ordering pistons or cam. They cant get here soon enough 😂
RIP right rear tire. For what it’s worth, I had a 3rd Gen Camaro and installed a torsen style limited slip, had excellent street manners. Just in case she gets sick of blazing that RR off when she’s not even trying to.
Eric, man give your self some credit. That 350 kicked some ass for what it is. With stock GM 2.02 heads and a typical hot rod 220@.050 .480 lift flat tappet cam, reality is that would be a ~325HP 375TQ engine. Your heads and cam added 100HP dude! Your stuff kicked ass on this mild build. If you don't want to brag, at least take credit where credit is due. You can be humble, and still point out you did good on this build! Cool thing is, is those heads would support 600+HP on a race prepped 350. Who knows, your sister (or kids?) may want to step that engine up to hit the track some day.
Dude, 420/420 with that compression, loose quench, lower performance intake and 215* of intake duration, is really good. I estimated 385/415. I knew the tq would be decent, but I expected peak hp to come in closer to 5500-5600, mainly due to the intake. Your sister’s not going to know what to do with triple the hp/tq she has now.
That's nice power, I hoped my 383 with stock World SRs and a 276HR would make that kind of output. I bet you're getting 16-18" of vacuum as well and as you said a smooth, lope free idle.
Absolutely Best little Sister motor Build !! .....For That little Short duration cam, It Really cranks out the HP..... Your relatively high Lift Cam gets the Job Done !!
The way I see it, if it's got 8 cylinders, any kind of decent head and any kind of cam it should make 400hp! That little 350 is doing good, really good, with a single wheel squeal, well you already know! That one should last her a lifetime!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
waiting to see, ear to ear grin/ smile from your sister on her 1st drive. don't deprive us that fun video. lol probably best to leave the one wheel wonder in it till she gets used to the power. ( easier to control , for people not used to loose rear )
Heads saved you . Intake and cam not optimal at all. Single pattern cam with your same intake lobe and a 106-108 Lsa would make 30+more ftlbs in my estimate . Bleeding off a lot of midrange cylinder pressure
106-108 lsa would idle like crap.. especially in a 350ci engine.. More power definitely, but his sister wants a smooth idle.. not absolute max midrange power.
Man, he needs to kill that spider in the control room and buy a swiffer to snag all those webs 🤣😂🤣. Great simple engine build. Heads and cam match are perfect.
First, you built the exact engine your sister needs (wants) for her Firebird. I guessed higher on torque and horsepower because I thought the heads would carry more torque higher in the rpm range. I’m guessing the low profile manifold held it back. In the car the shorty headers you’ll likely use will kill some of that torque, but it’ll drive well regardless. Great results Eric!
I guessed 425 torq at 4000 amd 425 hp at 5500. That's what happens when you have enough head and don't have to try to crutch it with to much cam. You don't need tight lsa to make torque when you are not trying to crutch a poor head. PS Given the rpm it made peak torque and horsepower, the conservative dyno and lack of jetting and timing changes I suspect I guessed low.
Yup people have all banded together like sheep that the ideal head for a 350 is a 180cc and for a 383-406 it's a 195cc. But there are plenty of ways to build a engine as seen here. Big, high flowing heads will work great with a smaller mild cam because the cam will make the torque and the larger heads will still flow to higher rpms and make the horsepower. If the same engine was done with a smaller 180cc I'll bet it would've made peak power around 5300-5500rpm instead of 5800 and it wouldn't have broken 390hp.
That same exact thing happened to my first small block I built. The whole top of the “volcano shaped area“ crumbled off during mock up. Luckily, there was enough room to thread a couple more threads in and use a stud. Damnedest thing I ever saw.
Thank you. I have been lookning forward to this video. :) Just want to say I posted that I guessed about 1.2 lb/ft pr. CID. 425.1 lb/ft divided by 355 CID = 1.197 lb/ft pr. CID, right? Not way off I think. Mild engines like this can not rev and therefore always produces the same amount of horsepower and torque. :)
Why so much exhaust duration, 17 more degrees than the intake? I can see how that helps above 5000 rpm, but it will hurt gas mileage and if Oklahoma ever requires an exhaust emission test for that car, you will have to change that cam.
Nice work. It did what it needs to do. That said, I wonder if it might have made more torque with a little LESS timing? I’m thinking 480 HP - 530 ft/lbs. But if you weren’t going to be using the carb or headers, there’s no point in ANY tuning. Well done.
With that much power, the car will feel helpless coming off the line with one wheel peel... I experienced that feeling in my '65 GTO back in the day when I overheated the posi and it stopped working until it cooled back down again... without posi the car felt like it wouldn't get moving... Was predicting 430 torque and 450 HP... until he mentioned the bad engine quench distance which hurt compression ratio and torque, and high RPMs power...
Nice numbers Eric number 7 pull will work nice in the street and have good shift recovery, your average numbers are excellent it will pull hard through the gears and the extra exhaust will work good with an exhaust system, good job
Hey eric can you help build me a torque monster 350? 1981 to 1970.5 clone its a 378 has a 1.195" piston , 6" rods, 3.66" stroke crank in an undecked 4.052" bore block, pistons are flush. i shall need to save up and get some heads from you it may be some years. i am really slow, like working on this for a dozen years already. i haven't specified a cam or final compression , maybe these heads would work? intend to run a dual plane, have an EPS endurashined right now , although i shall probably use the performer RPM. i put more cubes so i can have greater torque and kept the rod ratio at 1.64:1 for a street machine daily driver with great power. runs manual brake system. and manual steering. high ratios so those are settled. Automatic Th350 transmission modified heavily custom close ratio gearing. Although thinking of using a TH400 or a 4 or 5 speed manual as i still have the clutch pedal for the 81 canadian experimental yet may go clutchless. There is no stall yet. nor a driveshaft or rear gears , has posi. no ignition yet, no heads, no carb yet, headers shall be custom 180* long tubes built by me with long collector, muzzle break box and custom built mufflers. i also want to try a 3.66" crank in a 400 small block to build a 397 c.i. with a 4.155" bore. Just as soon as i get an undecked 400 2 bolt block with a good stock deck that checks out.
As you said dyno to dyno the numbers are different, but the curves should be the same. That is a good reliable engine that she was looking for. Job well done.
Biggest issue is she satisfied, nothing else matters. I have seen people happy with MUCH less and some mad with 100 hp a hole. I wish I had a dime for every time I read or heard vizard mis quoted because people don't follow things all the way to the end. I have a 2.8l puking chicken and just about the same build going. Hopefully I get similar numbers because anything near 400 is really fun on the street and can still get enough economy to cruise to neighboring towns. Great job
That has 500 hp written all over it. I haven’t seen what it does, but it will make good torque albeit at a fairly high RPM. Dunsworth Machine is an interesting place.
Nice information! Would love to have seen a 1” plastic four hole with no taper. I’ve only had five of my own motors and probably seen 50 others and the dynos rattle a lot.
Guys in the comments talking about how to get more out of this combination, and here I am thinking about how it could be made even lower compression and idle even smoother. In an 88 firebird with a T5 and a ten bolt posi with just under a ten inch wide all season tire, I would want about 360 hp by 5,500 and just under 400 torque. Thats enough to blow the transmission, rear end and tires off of it on regular tarmac. Anything more would just feel like a grenade. Especially if it has the 700r4.
Where was this Dyno located? ...at Munster's mansion??? ...take a look at the spider webs!!! I dig it!!! 21:52 Hey dyno man? Cousin IT is calling you! Now in a serious note: Great job on this motor, for a low buck 350 CID rebuilt/install you cannot hope for anything better that this! Based on what I am seeing this is a solid 375HP/TQ motor! More than enough for your sister and an everyday driver/racer! She must be proud of this motor!
Ok say what you want ,but my 383 ,with zero deck, Afr CNC ported, custom chamber, big valves, huge cam 680 lift 108 lobe separation, 830 carb. Love is but the power difference is like quick and fast.
Made some nice power especially for the goal you were going for. I could hear the unevenness of the Dyno load on top end of all the pulls. I know it's not feasible but it would be kind of interesting to me to see the numbers down in the 2k range for on road use 350. Thanks for the vid Eric. 👍
my message got erased for some reason i had one with an 900cfm not for the fuel but for the air made 500-480ft lbs but had pop tops floating pins . you should have a few carbs to try instead of spacers the spacers have never done much.thats gonna be totally different with a sniper
I run that eagle rotating assembly and a lot of demolition derby engines they're never really over 400 horsepower but let me tell you running them for 20 plus minutes without water in the engine they sure hold up
That eps’s small runners are holding it back That’s a tiny intake to squeeze 420 out of it is not bad at all That cam is not a big cam at all That’s I nice size street cam
Engines like this are often more fun in a true street car. Low maintenance, runs on pump swill, plenty of torque and no obnoxious exhaust note for the neighbors to complain about.
I’m gunna disagree with you Eric…. Runs smooth, great street power, no oil leaks, and no headaches…it’s a bragging engine. Awesome job!
Nice build ! I just dyno'd my 388 sbc jet boat build. It's zero deck .039 quench 10.6 compression. 4 relief flat top Icon pistons. The heads are what I had laying around and are considered wrong for this combo. Old school Victor Jr 220cc race units with .208/.160 valves, 5 angle grind. The head ports are bigger than the Air Gap intake ports. No material on the intake to match so I left it alone and used fel pro-1206 intake gaskets. The cam is a step nose retainer plate Comp billet core with iron gear. 2 degrees advanced, 230/236 , 598/598 on a 113 LSA. 1.5 comp ultra magnum steel rockers. I used low buck Elgin drop in roller lifters with factory dog bone retainers and tray. The valve springs are what #'s worked. Crate 502 GM BBC springs. It ended up liking 38* timing and a 1-3/4 open spacer on the stock Air Gap intake. Carb is a Quick Fuel QR mechanical 750. Secondary jets are 80 pinned at .090". Primary air bleeds are .031" sec are .035.
Made 474 torque /4900
475 hp /5400
That engine makes more than enough power to break every factory drivetrain piece behind it despite being a mild build. Nice work build target achieved!
Yup, I had a ‘87 Z28 years ago. I put a mild (450ish hp/tq) 383 in it. The rear lasted about 4 weeks and the 700r4 lasted about 5 months.
I thought exactly the same thing. Factory driveshaft and rear end is history on Day #1.
That's exactly what I came here to comment, with a 700R4 1st gear and that much TQ if she romps on it that 10 bolt is toast.
Would not break any of the factory driveline parts in my 97 Express Van. 4L80E and 10.5 14 bolt in it.
I've broken the spider gears of the old 7.5 inch 10 bolt. Right at the starting line doing a dry hop. That little 350 is a easy 12-13 second engine in that firebird.
Not bad, by the time you throw an alternator and belt driven water pump and power steering pump, torque converter, trans and drivetrain it will have about 330hp to the wheels
Excellent low-budget build!! Congratulations, Eric. Nicely done. Surprised me with lower compression & small cubic inch. Great video & dyno info as well.
Thank you
HP is from the improved head air flow...
Great numbers with a 215 cam ! I think with Holly controlling the timing and fuel and 1 5/8 headers it could see 440 tq.that is a great combination for a street car!Good job Eric and thanks for sharing 👍
I'd say the intake was the restriction since the spacers didn't change anything,, a 604 crate motor blueprinted will be in the 440 range both for HP and TQ with a single plane intake ,, 750 carb ,, did see one make 451 hp , matched the track record so I think it was an accurate Dyno run ,,604 crate cam is 208/222-112 @050 , 1.5 rocker , 490 lift range ,, they have around the same compression, ,,
For a street only car without a posi...I wouldn't change a thing. Great build!
What I've run into was decades ago I tore down a 350, and to make a long story short, didn't pay attention to mixing up a short headbolt with the oil pump bolt, which is a little longer and pushed into the main bearing, deforming it. But original pump. Just smoothed out.
Now I just get a stud for the pump
It’s very common mistake.
Lots of similarities 360” sbc 200ik’s edelbrock rpm air gap Wilson 4 hole 2”spacer 750 hp no power valve locked out 38 degrees probe .125” domes comp solid roller 254/260 108 lobe sep. in an 85 Firebird that was a 2.8 4.10 gears 275 drag radials th350 with tci 3800 10” ran a beat so far of a 10.98 at 123 1.48 60’ with foot brake.
I only know what i been told and seen on some dyno charts . First off is your better off with a bit smaller cam and better heads . A good set of heads can make a cam carry out farther than it normally will . So this is in my option for the dyno reading here thanks for the videos
The heads Eric has on this build are good for a easy 600 hp ,so better heads than this I DNT think would improve anything on this build ,these heads the way he ported them are allready way overkill
Hi Per U Tek Tik pistons
The heads are not too big.....big flow out of a relatively small port means big velocity. Add in the dual plane intake it will pull on the carb hard.
I was guessing it was going to make somewhere between 360-380hp. This thing is a beast! Gotta be the head work you did and that roller cam!
Why would you guess so low lol there's a big misconception that a gen1 sbc can't make power and that's just absurd lol every young kid thinks a LS makes 1000hp and a gen 1 makes 150hp lol
@@jonathanlawson4667 lol I know right. The advantage the LS has is the stock heads flow great and they’re stronger but you can build a gen 1 to make a ton of power also. I was actually expecting to see little more of it.
@@jonathanlawson4667 a ls is leaps and bound better.head flow 320 cfm and way stronger bottom end
@@ryangulley2051 it's not leaps and bounds lol you can splay bolt a sbc and it's just as strong. The sbc still beats the LS by leaps and bounds today my friend just depends on how you build them. Sbc won KD this last weekend 13K race and beat out all those LS you speak about and the sbc running a flipping carb as well 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you guys who say that nonsense obviously haven't ever built anything before
@@jonathanlawson4667 For a gen 1 to make the same it takes more cam timing than the ls thats all. See guys get told on forums to replace thier BBC or 400 with a junkyard 5.3 and get pissed when the car can barely break 13s. haha
great video, this was a lot of fun to watch, great job
Thank you for making these videos. I know it takes considerable time, and there is never enough appreciation, but I get so much from your videos. I love the humility with your 'I am not superman' attitude. To us amateur engine builders, you are not just superman, you are closer to a God. Thank you again and keep them coming. Thank you!
No problem and thanks for watching.
Eric is a natural host. He keeps you interested during the whole video.
I built a stock cast piston 350 with stock vortec heads,howards hydr roller 510 lift,summit air gap intake ,670 avenger, summit 1 5/8 headers.made 415hp 425 trq.only spun it to 5,500.the vortec heads do a good job of making good power for people with a low budget. Use same combo with a set of alluminum vortec head with a little more compression (quench) it would make about 50 more hp
That HP seems extreme for who it's for, I would think some 1.94 heads, flat tops, something like a 275 hp 327 cam, 600 cfm carb would be around 300 hp, better low end response and gas milage. My two cents...
Basically I built the same engine Vortec L31 truck roller engine because I was afraid of all the cam failures lately. Same pistons stock bore same rings .024" quench and 9.72-1 compression according to the Diamond Pistons cal. sheet .028" chevy performance head gaskets and same bearings and Lunati 20080721 cam 270/278 and 515/530 and AFR enforcer heads. I have yet to install it. It's a tried and true recipe from many youtube vids and it makes from 413 to 440 hp depenging on the dyno etc. I'm putting it in a 1989 Chevy C2500 truck with a 700R4 with a 2000 stall Hughes converter and a stock 373 gear rear end and should be a tire fryer and fun to drive and dependable. The orig. TBI engine was 190HP and should be night and day difference. Thanks for the dyno Video.
Hyper U tech tick how we say it around these parts. Or Hypertechs for short. I painted my first engine build yellow back around 40yrs ago. It was a 400 Pontiac from a 67 Firebird. Ran pretty good for a kid building it. I had a uncle that had a 69 C-10 drag truck he raced on the street back in the early 80s, it had a tunnelram equipped 377ci SBC in it putting out 600+hp with a Jerico 5spd in it. The engine was painted yellow. He shifted that thing around 8800rpm. Ran mid 6s in the 8th, I was impressed with it, so I painted my engine yellow too. It was a popular engine color choice back in the day.
Thats the way ive always thought it was pronounced. Theres a lot of brands in the industry i wonder if i pronounce right.
As a engine builder its not always about max horsepower. Its about giving the customer what they want and need
Mahle makes a nice .026 thick, 4.125 bore graphite head gasket that works pretty good. Part # 1264MHP I believe is the part number.
Better hp numbers than I thought too. The cam is relatively mild. Cool
The cap threads get broken or distorted from the wrong pump bolt being installed. The two odd SBC headbolts get mixed up with others on the engine. The oil pump bolt fits the head in the oil return hole, but the head bolt comes up a bit short if used in the oil pump.
Hi Eric, The people that are questioning your choices I guess don't know how well your name and reputation carries in motorsports! It's not like you're a newbee .Thanks for your Knowledge and sharing it Eric!!👍👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing Eric! enjoyed the video. I wouldn't have thought you would have pinging issues as the quench is really loose for a NA motor and larger quench areas help with detonation and allow for a bigger tuning window.
What I believe happened with the oil pump bolt, and I've seen it before, they used a short outer 4 bolt main bolt and not an oil pump bolt. They're not long enough. Only catch 1/4" of threads or less and once pump vibrates it breaks those protruding threads.
When laying out your bolts for mains make sure there isn't one longer one! That's the oil pump bolt! It'll fit the main because those bolt holes are open and that bolt won't bottom out. Oil pump bolt is about 1/4" longer.
I'm retired machinist. Seen this at least 6 times.
Nothing happened to it. This is a two bolt main block with arp bolts. Oil pump is a stud.
I think the wide lsa and small dual plane calmed it down and smoothed it out for a very flat torque curve. I think it's a great drop it in, go have fun engine, I want one! I would have though the big numbers would kill bottom end, good thing the engine didn't care what I thought. One tip....never tell the engine IT'S NOT AN LS-XX... and it will continue to make you happy.
Interesting dyno results. I'm building a 385 similar to this with about the same intent but I don't requirea perfectly smooth idle. Just an 87 octane burner with stock stall and vacuum for the creature comforts. I have Afr's version of your heads on order. Planing on a simple 60 grit chamber and bowl blend. Under 9.5 compression for 87 but will be about. 040 quench. Pistons will probably be the thin ring KB hyper 18cc dish. Eyeballing something like the lunati voodoo 219/227 on a 112lsa. With a 1.55/1.6 rocker arm combination would put the lift about. 549int/.548exh. Waiting to spec the heads before ordering pistons or cam. They cant get here soon enough 😂
Impressive little engine. Nice street car engine.
RIP right rear tire. For what it’s worth, I had a 3rd Gen Camaro and installed a torsen style limited slip, had excellent street manners. Just in case she gets sick of blazing that RR off when she’s not even trying to.
Eric, man give your self some credit. That 350 kicked some ass for what it is. With stock GM 2.02 heads and a typical hot rod 220@.050 .480 lift flat tappet cam, reality is that would be a ~325HP 375TQ engine. Your heads and cam added 100HP dude! Your stuff kicked ass on this mild build. If you don't want to brag, at least take credit where credit is due. You can be humble, and still point out you did good on this build!
Cool thing is, is those heads would support 600+HP on a race prepped 350. Who knows, your sister (or kids?) may want to step that engine up to hit the track some day.
I really like the journey of taking a humble combination and make it overachieve. You have a good way of getting the point across.
Dude, 420/420 with that compression, loose quench, lower performance intake and 215* of intake duration, is really good. I estimated 385/415. I knew the tq would be decent, but I expected peak hp to come in closer to 5500-5600, mainly due to the intake. Your sister’s not going to know what to do with triple the hp/tq she has now.
That's nice power, I hoped my 383 with stock World SRs and a 276HR would make that kind of output. I bet you're getting 16-18" of vacuum as well and as you said a smooth, lope free idle.
👍👍 Thanks for the information at the end!
Absolutely Best little Sister motor Build !! .....For That little Short duration cam, It Really cranks out the HP..... Your relatively high Lift Cam gets the Job Done !!
Those Fel Pro rubber coated steel shim .015 thick 4.125 bore gaskets work pretty good also.
The way I see it, if it's got 8 cylinders, any kind of decent head and any kind of cam it should make 400hp! That little 350 is doing good, really good, with a single wheel squeal, well you already know! That one should last her a lifetime!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I see it the same.
What do you think about Rhoades lifters? That has a laser cut "leak"
Doesn't want lumpidy lumpidy lump lump.. Then has 570 lift cam in it lol! Sweet!
I don’t think the lift gives you lumpity lump .
waiting to see, ear to ear grin/ smile from your sister on her 1st drive. don't deprive us that fun video. lol
probably best to leave the one wheel wonder in it till she gets used to the power. ( easier to control , for people not used to loose rear )
It's all situational and what your engine was being built for. Lov it. At least you didn't give her a full 3/4 race cam.
Heads saved you . Intake and cam not optimal at all. Single pattern cam with your same intake lobe and a 106-108 Lsa would make 30+more ftlbs in my estimate . Bleeding off a lot of midrange cylinder pressure
106-108 lsa would idle like crap.. especially in a 350ci engine.. More power definitely, but his sister wants a smooth idle.. not absolute max midrange power.
@@Torquemonster440 even with a lsa of 108 , 215 duration will not have poor idle quality
@@hereinmissoula - 215 duration will lope at a 600 RPMs idle...
Intake duration, LSA, and intake manifold is great for his sister's daily driver... maybe a tad less exhaust duration... for better MPG...
I have painted my engines yellow since I was building models as a little kid, still do 😊
Hahaha 😂
Mine are usually a lighter gloss gray. Looks great against aluminum polished or not and shows any leak early on.
Black makes 0 sense to me
Not only did the non-spacer pull make 2-3 more AVERAGE power, but it'll actually fit under a 3rd gen F body hood.
Man, he needs to kill that spider in the control room and buy a swiffer to snag all those webs 🤣😂🤣. Great simple engine build. Heads and cam match are perfect.
First, you built the exact engine your sister needs (wants) for her Firebird. I guessed higher on torque and horsepower because I thought the heads would carry more torque higher in the rpm range. I’m guessing the low profile manifold held it back. In the car the shorty headers you’ll likely use will kill some of that torque, but it’ll drive well regardless. Great results Eric!
Yeah needs a raised airgap intake with a spacer
@@jonathanlawson4667 - Looks like a raised intake, just no airgap...
10 degrees less exhaust duration prolly would have been more 'exact'... torque come in sooner... better MPG...
She's a charm! I called the torque, but got the RPM off by over 30%. I wasn't even on the dart board for the power figure.
Eric , think about what you're reading on the plug at the top, versus down at the base of the porcelain
what 've seen on utube if you cut the divider down is like adding a 1 inch spacer
I guessed 425 torq at 4000 amd 425 hp at 5500. That's what happens when you have enough head and don't have to try to crutch it with to much cam. You don't need tight lsa to make torque when you are not trying to crutch a poor head.
PS Given the rpm it made peak torque and horsepower, the conservative dyno and lack of jetting and timing changes I suspect I guessed low.
Yup people have all banded together like sheep that the ideal head for a 350 is a 180cc and for a 383-406 it's a 195cc. But there are plenty of ways to build a engine as seen here. Big, high flowing heads will work great with a smaller mild cam because the cam will make the torque and the larger heads will still flow to higher rpms and make the horsepower. If the same engine was done with a smaller 180cc I'll bet it would've made peak power around 5300-5500rpm instead of 5800 and it wouldn't have broken 390hp.
That same exact thing happened to my first small block I built. The whole top of the “volcano shaped area“ crumbled off during mock up. Luckily, there was enough room to thread a couple more threads in and use a stud. Damnedest thing I ever saw.
Thank you. I have been lookning forward to this video. :)
Just want to say I posted that I guessed about 1.2 lb/ft pr. CID.
425.1 lb/ft divided by 355 CID = 1.197 lb/ft pr. CID, right? Not way off I think.
Mild engines like this can not rev and therefore always produces the same amount of horsepower and torque. :)
425 HP is a pretty stout street engine, especially with that flat torque curvve.
Why so much exhaust duration, 17 more degrees than the intake? I can see how that helps above 5000 rpm, but it will hurt gas mileage and if Oklahoma ever requires an exhaust emission test for that car, you will have to change that cam.
This was a very enjoyable video. Awesome numbers on that 350
Fantastic video as usual Eric. Always watch to the end. why not finish what one starts.. LOL.. never too long.. Great content and great Job.
I was thinking 410 to 415 and you got that done! Sis should be good to go!....
Not everyone wants or needs race car engines. It went above and beyond my expectations. Way better than my 355 with a xe284h cam with 1.6 rockers.
Well done. You built for the customer. That what counts.
COMETIC MLS gaskets seal really well I've used them on non surfaced blocks without any issues but 27 thousands is the smallest I've ever used
Perfect cam choice . Its now always about max horsepower . Reliable , smooth and no oil leaks will make her happy .
Nice work. It did what it needs to do.
That said, I wonder if it might have made more torque with a little LESS timing? I’m thinking 480 HP - 530 ft/lbs. But if you weren’t going to be using the carb or headers, there’s no point in ANY tuning. Well done.
With that much power, the car will feel helpless coming off the line with one wheel peel...
I experienced that feeling in my '65 GTO back in the day when I overheated the posi and it stopped working until it cooled back down again... without posi the car felt like it wouldn't get moving...
Was predicting 430 torque and 450 HP... until he mentioned the bad engine quench distance which hurt compression ratio and torque, and high RPMs power...
Sound healthy to me Eric !! Just another great day at the office
Are you from Enid? I'm originally from Enid. I got a 383 from that machine shop where you did your dyno. Small world.
I grew up in Enid.
Nice numbers Eric number 7 pull will work nice in the street and have good shift recovery, your average numbers are excellent it will pull hard through the gears and the extra exhaust will work good with an exhaust system, good job
Hey eric can you help build me a torque monster 350? 1981 to 1970.5 clone its a 378 has a 1.195" piston , 6" rods, 3.66" stroke crank in an undecked 4.052" bore block, pistons are flush. i shall need to save up and get some heads from you it may be some years. i am really slow, like working on this for a dozen years already. i haven't specified a cam or final compression , maybe these heads would work? intend to run a dual plane, have an EPS endurashined right now , although i shall probably use the performer RPM. i put more cubes so i can have greater torque and kept the rod ratio at 1.64:1 for a street machine daily driver with great power. runs manual brake system. and manual steering. high ratios so those are settled. Automatic Th350 transmission modified heavily custom close ratio gearing. Although thinking of using a TH400 or a 4 or 5 speed manual as i still have the clutch pedal for the 81 canadian experimental yet may go clutchless. There is no stall yet. nor a driveshaft or rear gears , has posi. no ignition yet, no heads, no carb yet, headers shall be custom 180* long tubes built by me with long collector, muzzle break box and custom built mufflers. i also want to try a 3.66" crank in a 400 small block to build a 397 c.i. with a 4.155" bore. Just as soon as i get an undecked 400 2 bolt block with a good stock deck that checks out.
I enjoy your videos alot and the story was a good one, thank you..
That's really good results for a very small cam!
Torque curve is what matters on the st. Great combo there!
Too many look at only peak hp and make judgements, couldnt be more wrong
As you said dyno to dyno the numbers are different, but the curves should be the same. That is a good reliable engine that she was looking for. Job well done.
Biggest issue is she satisfied, nothing else matters. I have seen people happy with MUCH less and some mad with 100 hp a hole. I wish I had a dime for every time I read or heard vizard mis quoted because people don't follow things all the way to the end. I have a 2.8l puking chicken and just about the same build going. Hopefully I get similar numbers because anything near 400 is really fun on the street and can still get enough economy to cruise to neighboring towns. Great job
One great lil street motor for your sister good job my guess was 429 hp
Excellent, I wouldn't have expected 400hp/torque either, more like 350hp or a little more
That has 500 hp written all over it. I haven’t seen what it does, but it will make good torque albeit at a fairly high RPM. Dunsworth Machine is an interesting place.
In my opinion, this is a sweet combination. Should bring her a lot of carefree miles and could hurt some feelings
I'm commenting mid video. Great choice with the sniper setup for your sis. I love mine.
WEIRD how the horsepower started to go up again at 6300
Where you find a balanced rotating assembly for $570? Sign me up lol
Do a search, Eagle cast cranks have a reputation for snapping...
Nice information! Would love to have seen a 1” plastic four hole with no taper. I’ve only had five of my own motors and probably seen 50 others and the dynos rattle a lot.
Tapering increases velocity of air, reduces pressure, venturi effect
Guys in the comments talking about how to get more out of this combination, and here I am thinking about how it could be made even lower compression and idle even smoother.
In an 88 firebird with a T5 and a ten bolt posi with just under a ten inch wide all season tire, I would want about 360 hp by 5,500 and just under 400 torque. Thats enough to blow the transmission, rear end and tires off of it on regular tarmac. Anything more would just feel like a grenade. Especially if it has the 700r4.
Locked out at 36 will cause hard to start problems when it gets hot.... will need to set up that distributors mechanical advance....
The sniper will have a different timing curve but peak will be 36degrees.
It''ll make more than 2.5x the power at the tires versus the old engine - probably with just a hint of rump-ditty-rump
Where was this Dyno located? ...at Munster's mansion??? ...take a look at the spider webs!!! I dig it!!!
21:52 Hey dyno man? Cousin IT is calling you!
Now in a serious note: Great job on this motor, for a low buck 350 CID rebuilt/install you cannot hope for anything better that this! Based on what I am seeing this is a solid 375HP/TQ motor! More than enough for your sister and an everyday driver/racer! She must be proud of this motor!
Nice motor she will be very happy!
Ok say what you want ,but my 383 ,with zero deck, Afr CNC ported, custom chamber, big valves, huge cam 680 lift 108 lobe separation, 830 carb. Love is but the power difference is like quick and fast.
Made some nice power especially for the goal you were going for. I could hear the unevenness of the Dyno load on top end of all the pulls.
I know it's not feasible but it would be kind of interesting to me to see the numbers down in the 2k range for on road use 350. Thanks for the vid Eric. 👍
Hopefully she doesn't have a heavy foot the stock rear and trans are probably in jeopardy 😂🤣 Great work.
my message got erased for some reason i had one with an 900cfm not for the fuel but for the air made 500-480ft lbs but had pop tops floating pins . you should have a few carbs to try instead of spacers the spacers have never done much.thats gonna be totally different with a sniper
It makes you a good brother. You might want to buy her a set of spare rear tires though!
Very thought out build , I didn't hear what the cr was though
I run that eagle rotating assembly and a lot of demolition derby engines they're never really over 400 horsepower but let me tell you running them for 20 plus minutes without water in the engine they sure hold up
That eps’s small runners are holding it back
That’s a tiny intake
to squeeze 420 out of it is not bad at all
That cam is not a big cam at all That’s I nice size street cam
Ive made over 460hp @383ci with a very basically modded eps. Using 234*@.050" on the intake. The EPS is not holding it back at all.
Good video bro, the info we are looking for 😎
Ok . Looks like I guessed 14 HP more. Thanks for the videos.
1st engine i ever built was yellow. I knew i liked you for a reason ; )
Nice video, Eric, she sounds good 👍