Thank you Diane, that is a wonderfully clear description of what's going on ingdrading, and how to consider each point to be graded. Your rulers are ingenius.
I know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb lost my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Nova Jaylen Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi Diane, I just purchased your rulers and I'm trying to learn how to use them. Can you do a more in-depth video on using your ruler to grade a basic bodice? I was a little confused watching this video
@@DianeDezieltoolfully you are incredable, you've no idea the service you are providing, just ordered these rulers and I'm so excited to hear they have already shipped I've been telling everyone about your channel xxx
Hi, Diane. I think you have some of the most innovative techniques in terms of engineering clothing and I am a massive fan of your channel. Would you share a video or some information on grading rules when sizing up and down on any pattern? Obviously you grade at points where a line changes shape, the exception is that they all move at different amounts. Is there a table or chart that can help with grading measurements over multiple patterns in multiple sizes? Thanks again for your insight!
Hello Semi, I will make some more grading video for sure. If you want my chart of grading, from my rulers, all measurements for all points, 4 sizes down and 6 sizes up, with 5 different steps ( smaller for smaller & going bigger for larger sizes) just send me and e-mail at dianedeziel@gmail.com Diane
New Subie..I'm SOLD!! THis is Amazing that you came up with this Amazing Ruler! I Ordered mine aswell.. Can't wait to start using them. Merci Diane and TFS :O)
This is a sells pitch for a product being sold on ETSY. Quite frustrating. I thought this video was going to show me how to grade a pattern but it's not. It's a tutorial on how to use this product she sells on ETSY. You have to have this product to grade your pattern.
Great informative video but the speed that the printed text is shown and the too quickly disappears is frustrating. I'm also very pleased, you have not got background music.
What if your in between sizes? I am a bust of 37.5 waist is 31 and hips are 37? Can you do a video on how to grade these inbetween sizes using your Toofully rulers? Thank you Julie
Hello Julie For in between sizes I would use the smaller grading points. It's a long time I did not make a grading video that would be a good idea. Diane
Great grading video. I plan on purchasing your grading kit. In my mind I was going to loving draft every design but that is not realistic. I noticed in your bra cup grading tutorial you used a ruler for the adjustment. Could I use your bodice grading ruler to measure adjust changes?
Hello Rita The grading rulers are made to change the size of the pattern, but you could also do little correction, like changing all the bodice to a size bigger and the waist of the same bodice to 2 sizes bigger. The rulers could grade many many styles, but sometimes there are crazy styles that are so complicate to grade that we must do it in sections. Diane
Hello Vanessa, I will do some more video for sure, for now, I did princess line th-cam.com/video/K3mPzQW4f0Q/w-d-xo.html and shawl collar th-cam.com/video/CaqMJ4z8goQ/w-d-xo.html Diane
Diane Deziel thank you! I’ve been having trouble with my patterns that have panel bodices or skirts. Also when the neckline becomes bigger I’m unsure how to make the collar bigger to match.
Hello Kym You can get it from My ETSY BOUTIQUE : www.etsy.com/ca-fr/shop/TOOLFULLY?ref=seller-platform-mcnav I don't have any distributor, I'm doing everything myself. Diane
Hi Diane. I've purchased your grading rulers and they save me so much time. You're amazing! I do have one question though. When grading to a person's actual measurements, sometimes the all around grading isn't consistent. For example, the pattern may need 4 inches around the waist but only 2 inches around the bust. Would it be correct to grade the entire pattern based on the bust measurement, then adjust the waist size by reshaping the side seam?
Hello Patrila, YES, Grading is for standard so using the bust for the top is good and the hip for the bottom than customize the pattern at the waist. Diane
Please Please tell me how much apex point move in horizontal and how much neck point move in vertical for smaller size? I'm in middle of grading my pattern.
Hi Diane Can you grade after seam allowance has been added? Also, thank you so much for your videos. I'm fairly new to sewing but with your help, I've created some beautiful custom pieces. You're an amazing teacher!
Hi Diane, thanks for this tutorial. I am currently struggling to grade a design I draped on the dress form.. I need to grade for bust size in particular, which I know is the Full Bust Adjustment. Any pointers on how to grade a pattern for cup size and not necessarily size all around?
Hi Diane, I got your rulers as well as patterns. I faced an issue now. in the measurements chart the bust is 92.5 plus 1.5 cm ease which will be 94 cm in total, but in pattern bust is 101 cm so it is 7 cm bigger. same thing with waist. in the measurements chart waist is 68 plus 2 cm ease which will be 70 in total as you see waist is 2 cm bigger. how can i decrease and adjust them. I cannot use grading ruler because the only issue is in the bust. I really appreciate if you assist me in this regard since my client size is match with your measurement chart and not the pattern. Thank you for your time.
Hello Srahdan, Here are the ease you should have (it depend on the fabric little stretch or not, even 1% of lycra make's a big difference, and how thigh you wear your garment) Bust all around + 2 to 4 cm ease Waist all around + 1 to 2 cm ease Hip all around + 2 to 4 cm ease Now to make the block to the costumer size, 1. If you have a difference at the waist, it's simply a pattern modification; a. to enlarge the waist you could reduce the darts value or move out the side seam/waist point b. to reduce the waist, you do the opposite, enlarge the darts value or move in the side seam/waist point. 2. If you have a difference at the bust or hip, I would grade it to fit the right measure there, if in the case the waist os ok, grade everything except the waist. If your not sure what your doing is ok, you could send me picture of you pattern at dianedeziel@gmail.com (I'm pretty good to see when something is wrong.) Diane
How much up and down I have to do for larger and smaller bodice in 3rd type of grading (By the point). Here, you said to do up for larger bodice and down for smaller bodice but how much (any exact measurement) ?
All the technics are using the same measurements everywhere from shoulder blade area: all the shoulder points go up for larger size and down for smaller 2mm per size pivot and under arm point go down for larger size an up for smaller 3mm per size all waist points go down for larger size an up for smaller 5mm per size
Hi gifted_ hands, this is something easy to do with the ruler, you just have to point 2 dot further for all waist points. Thanks for the question, I will also do a video with special request like yours. Diane
Thank you Diane. I went to see on Esty to buy your bodice Grading, it is not expensive 22$ for my case, i live in canada Qc, but the problem is the shipping it cost 20$, so it’s 42$ . And didn’t put the tx . So i cannot buy it at that price. Do you have somewhere else we can buy your tools ? Thank Have a great day. 🌹
Hello Ligurienne, I know, shipping is expensive. It the box size that make the price, it's 46 cm X 31 cm X 9 cm. So it's the same shipping price for the complete set with the awl, and even if I add some cardboard pattern in. Diane
Diane Deziel allo Diane je viens de voir que tu parle français alors je vais m’exprimer en français ça va aller mieux pour moi. Je comprend très bien, mais j’aimerais aussi savoir pourquoi si j’en prend deux le shipping est aussi calculé deux fois. Ma mère étais aussi intéressé et qd j’en ai mis deux cela revenait à 80$. Alors si je me prend tout le kit, est ce que cela va me coute une fortune de shipping pour la même adresse? J’ai pas été voir mais vous avez sûrement un facebook ou je peux vous parler en privé aussi ? Merci Sofie
Bonjour Sofie, Avec Etsy, on ne peut pas dire combien de chose vont dans la même boite, c'est dommage, mais je n'y peu rien, alors lorsque quelqu'un achète 2 ou + objets physiques, je rembourse systématiquement les frais de shipping supplémentaires. Lorsque la personne me questionne d'abord, je leur propose de faire une fiche produit à leur nom avec exactement ce qu'ils veulent, c'est sans obligation. Le prix de shipping est presque identique, pour l'ensemble, 2 ou 3 ensembles ou une seule règle, car c'est la même boite. Si tu as des questions et aimerais resté privé, n'hésite pas, directement dans Etsy, j'y vais tous les jours. À bientôt Diane
Diane Deziel super je vous revient la semaine prochaine, j’en parle à ma maman et je vous écrit ce que nous allons prendre ensemble et livré pour la même adresse 😍 Merci et bonne fds Sofie
Diane ! Haha je vais t’écrire tantôt finalement mais comme on est samedi, je comprend si tu me répondrais la semaine prochaine. En passant est ce que tu es du canada ou Quebec ?
bonsoir et merci pour vote super page ça m a l air genial ces règles !!ce serait super si vous pouviez faire une video en francais je ne suis pas calée en anglais ;-(
Bonjour Ingrid, Oui j'en ai fais une en français, dans Ma chaine français th-cam.com/channels/aq7zDtYsUkGeI18qFbpTaw.htmlvideos Corsage th-cam.com/video/u4q_awa0fAUP/w-d-xo.htmloche th-cam.com/video/pPNKnTUqgtMP/w-d-xo.htmlantalon th-cam.com/video/U8NWWAlfW3A/w-d-xo.html Comme la chaine est plus récente, les vidéos sortent moins rapidement dans les résultats de recherche, alors viens me rejoindre et abonne toi pour la faire grandir. Si tu as des questions n'hésite pas. Diane
Diane , I have been trying to get.on tje toolfully.com to purchase the bodice grading.tool and pissibly.more. iy keeps.telling me that.the site has move , changed site.name.or no longer.exsite. would.would.direct.me.to a way to buy the item/items like a phone number (U.S.) ? I may be able.to get.on facebook but i habe been so affixed to an online buying site that.i haven't tried facebook. Not.sure.Facebook would.be a good.choice anyway. Thanks . I may also buy the pant tool if available .
Hi Cheryl, My boutique move to www.etsy.com/ca-fr/shop/TOOLFULLY?ref=seller-platform-mcnav I can now manage myself and reduce the shipping cost and all free PDF are on my Wix site dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully where I will do a blog soon.
Hello Jeremiah For the horizontal it is your spine so the center of the body For the vertical, the grading is small because adult don't grow anymore, so it depend on where we accumulate the fat and how the body change. ex. bodice "the across the front part" is fix cause the breast goes bigger and also lower while the shoulder goes thicker. So you need a little length in both direction. Fro skirt, there is no vertical grading. For pants, the fix area is the hip or crotch level and vertically we just move the waist to compensate for the roundness of the buttock. For the horizontal, the pants is tricky because it goes around the body but also around one leg. some are grading it like the skirt and the bodice, I grade it with the fix point in the middle of the leg because I think the crotch point needs to be grade a little more than the side seam. voila all the fix points Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Rather than working from the Cross front, my starting point would be the hem at the CF. Working clock wise, l'd get the CF neck drop, (+x 0.2), neck point (+x0.5, - y 0-.3), shoulder (+x 0.5, -y 0.6), cross front ( - x 0.3, - y 0.6), lower armhole (-x0.4, - y 0.75), bust (-x0, - y 1.25) side seam (-x0, - y1. 25). Alternatively your starting point, working from Centre Front or your Centre Back regardless of if its on the fold or not. Working from the hem, still in a clockwise manner, pencil in the hemline and centre front. Move out on the - y 1.25,draw in your side seam, move back to your cf up on the +x, 0.2 for the CF, etc etc as l stated before, arriving at the mid armhole point and connect your mid armhole to the bust area.
@@DianeDezieltoolfullyfor those not familiar with - x, +x, +y, - y, these directions are the equivalent of Left, Right, Up, Down (West, East, North, South). Just my humble opinion as to a simpler method, especially if you're stack grading AND adding a step grade. It seems you've done a half grade on the smaller sizes, 5cms on the regular and what did you do on the larger? 6/7.5? Great ruler though. I only use the grading red one.
To be honest, no good video. All you do is with a pencil moving it up and down and right and left. You should demostrate with paper and pencil how to decrease or increase the pattern with the measurements of the body. Thanks
Hello Amresh, I wish I speak some Hindi. Most bodices, men and woman are graded the same way, with the same measurements, I will grade a shirt with a back yoke soon. Diane
genius! I love that you came up with this fantastic method and created those tools. thank you.
this video really helped simplify the basics of grading!! thank you a million times.
Thank you Diane, that is a wonderfully clear description of what's going on ingdrading, and how to consider each point to be graded. Your rulers are ingenius.
I know im asking randomly but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost my password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Knox Zavier instablaster :)
@Nova Jaylen Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Nova Jaylen It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
@Knox Zavier no problem :)
Thanks for directions...
I Love your rulers! Genius!!!!!
Hi Diane, I just purchased your rulers and I'm trying to learn how to use them. Can you do a more in-depth video on using your ruler to grade a basic bodice? I was a little confused watching this video
I will keep doing some more promise. Diane
Discovered you just when I hit rock bottom, saved me going to order the pack of rulers for my Birthday at the end of the month x
Hello Conor,
I'm glad this could help, If you have questions do not hesitate.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully you are incredable, you've no idea the service you are providing, just ordered these rulers and I'm so excited to hear they have already shipped I've been telling everyone about your channel xxx
Rulers just arrived, and I'm super confused as to how to use them?
this is amazing! love your videos and hope to see more.
Hi, Diane. I think you have some of the most innovative techniques in terms of engineering clothing and I am a massive fan of your channel. Would you share a video or some information on grading rules when sizing up and down on any pattern? Obviously you grade at points where a line changes shape, the exception is that they all move at different amounts. Is there a table or chart that can help with grading measurements over multiple patterns in multiple sizes? Thanks again for your insight!
Hello Semi,
I will make some more grading video for sure.
If you want my chart of grading, from my rulers, all measurements for all points, 4 sizes down and 6 sizes up, with 5 different steps ( smaller for smaller & going bigger for larger sizes) just send me and e-mail at dianedeziel@gmail.com
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Thank you so much! I just emailed you.
Wow! Great explanation. Thank you.
Could you please do a video on how to grade by the point?
You are so gooooood😍😍😍😍😍😍
Please diane how do I know what points to grade using your method in different style garments, some garments are asymmetrical or strapless
New Subie..I'm SOLD!! THis is Amazing that you came up with this Amazing Ruler! I Ordered mine aswell.. Can't wait to start using them. Merci Diane and TFS :O)
Excellent tutorial. Thank you. You have a new sub 🤗
This is a sells pitch for a product being sold on ETSY. Quite frustrating. I thought this video was going to show me how to grade a pattern but it's not. It's a tutorial on how to use this product she sells on ETSY. You have to have this product to grade your pattern.
Great informative video but the speed that the printed text is shown and the too quickly disappears is frustrating. I'm also very pleased, you have not got background music.
I just discovered you, you are amazing!
How can I get all that your patterns? I will like to buy it in all those sizes
Looks interesting
thank you for this it helps so much
Thank you❤️
What if your in between sizes? I am a bust of 37.5 waist is 31 and hips are 37? Can you do a video on how to grade these inbetween sizes using your Toofully rulers?
Thank you Julie
Hello Julie
For in between sizes I would use the smaller grading points. It's a long time I did not make a grading video that would be a good idea.
Diane
How do we do the grading for armhole princess panel? How much do the dart points increase/ decrease on the armhole?
What do you do with a side bust dart using your grading rulers? It doesn’t seem to be addressed by the rulers
Great grading video. I plan on purchasing your grading kit. In my mind I was going to loving draft every design but that is not realistic. I noticed in your bra cup grading tutorial you used a ruler for the adjustment. Could I use your bodice grading ruler to measure adjust changes?
Hello Rita
The grading rulers are made to change the size of the pattern, but you could also do little correction, like changing all the bodice to a size bigger and the waist of the same bodice to 2 sizes bigger.
The rulers could grade many many styles, but sometimes there are crazy styles that are so complicate to grade that we must do it in sections.
Diane
Can I use this ruler on babies and children's patterns ?
You grade by Sizes but what if you have to grade at different points of the bodice, between two sizes.?
8:10 how many centimeters do you reduce from the pattern?
Can you please show how to use the grading rulers with panel patterns. Also how to grade an attached collar?
Hello Vanessa, I will do some more video for sure, for now, I did princess line th-cam.com/video/K3mPzQW4f0Q/w-d-xo.html and shawl collar th-cam.com/video/CaqMJ4z8goQ/w-d-xo.html Diane
Diane Deziel thank you! I’ve been having trouble with my patterns that have panel bodices or skirts. Also when the neckline becomes bigger I’m unsure how to make the collar bigger to match.
Can it be shipped to India any how
I am in Australia, where can I get the toolfully rulers from
Hello Kym
You can get it from My ETSY BOUTIQUE : www.etsy.com/ca-fr/shop/TOOLFULLY?ref=seller-platform-mcnav
I don't have any distributor, I'm doing everything myself.
Diane
Great video!! Do you have a video on grading up pants? Thank you!
Sadly, I don't think she has one showing the tool use, but the tool set does include pants device (as well as sleeve, bodice, and skirt).
Hi Diane. I've purchased your grading rulers and they save me so much time. You're amazing! I do have one question though.
When grading to a person's actual measurements, sometimes the all around grading isn't consistent. For example, the pattern may need 4 inches around the waist but only 2 inches around the bust. Would it be correct to grade the entire pattern based on the bust measurement, then adjust the waist size by reshaping the side seam?
Hello Patrila,
YES, Grading is for standard so using the bust for the top is good and the hip for the bottom than customize the pattern at the waist.
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully OK, great. Thank you!
Words can't describe how deeply I deeply appreciate all that you do. ❤️❤️❤️
Hello Diane how can i get them plz i do not now where i can get them plz ?
Please Please tell me how much apex point move in horizontal and how much neck point move in vertical for smaller size? I'm in middle of grading my pattern.
Hi Pooja, apex horizontal is moving 3mm per size. neck point is 2mm both vertical & horizontal.
Hi Diane
Can you grade after seam allowance has been added?
Also, thank you so much for your videos. I'm fairly new to sewing but with your help, I've created some beautiful custom pieces. You're an amazing teacher!
Hello Patrila,
Thanks for your comment
Yes you could and should grade pattern with seam allowance include.
Diane
OK, thank you!
Do you sell the tools anywhere else than Etsy? I refuse to shop there
Hi Diane, thanks for this tutorial. I am currently struggling to grade a design I draped on the dress form.. I need to grade for bust size in particular, which I know is the Full Bust Adjustment. Any pointers on how to grade a pattern for cup size and not necessarily size all around?
Hi Diane, I got your rulers as well as patterns. I faced an issue now. in the measurements chart the bust is 92.5 plus 1.5 cm ease which will be 94 cm in total, but in pattern bust is 101 cm so it is 7 cm bigger. same thing with waist. in the measurements chart waist is 68 plus 2 cm ease which will be 70 in total as you see waist is 2 cm bigger. how can i decrease and adjust them. I cannot use grading ruler because the only issue is in the bust. I really appreciate if you assist me in this regard since my client size is match with your measurement chart and not the pattern. Thank you for your time.
Hello Srahdan,
Here are the ease you should have (it depend on the fabric little stretch or not, even 1% of lycra make's a big difference, and how thigh you wear your garment)
Bust all around + 2 to 4 cm ease
Waist all around + 1 to 2 cm ease
Hip all around + 2 to 4 cm ease
Now to make the block to the costumer size,
1. If you have a difference at the waist, it's simply a pattern modification;
a. to enlarge the waist you could reduce the darts value or move out the side seam/waist point
b. to reduce the waist, you do the opposite, enlarge the darts value or move in the side seam/waist point.
2. If you have a difference at the bust or hip, I would grade it to fit the right measure there, if in the case the waist os ok, grade everything except the waist.
If your not sure what your doing is ok, you could send me picture of you pattern at dianedeziel@gmail.com (I'm pretty good to see when something is wrong.)
Diane
Very nice madam
How much up and down I have to do for larger and smaller bodice in 3rd type of grading (By the point). Here, you said to do up for larger bodice and down for smaller bodice but how much (any exact measurement) ?
All the technics are using the same measurements everywhere
from shoulder blade area:
all the shoulder points go up for larger size and down for smaller 2mm per size
pivot and under arm point go down for larger size an up for smaller 3mm per size
all waist points go down for larger size an up for smaller 5mm per size
Diane Deziel Thank you so much.
can send me grading chart.thanks.
What about grading from like a size 10 bust out to a 14 waist, it’ll change the side seam in a different manner. That’s what I would like to see
Hi gifted_ hands, this is something easy to do with the ruler, you just have to point 2 dot further for all waist points. Thanks for the question, I will also do a video with special request like yours. Diane
Diane Deziel thank you. I will definitely be looking forward to the video
Where do you get the grading rulers from?
ياليت تسوقي هذه البترونات كامله في موقع الابي
Thank you Diane. I went to see on Esty to buy your bodice Grading, it is not expensive 22$ for my case, i live in canada Qc, but the problem is the shipping it cost 20$, so it’s 42$ .
And didn’t put the tx .
So i cannot buy it at that price.
Do you have somewhere else we can buy your tools ?
Thank
Have a great day. 🌹
Hello Ligurienne,
I know, shipping is expensive.
It the box size that make the price, it's 46 cm X 31 cm X 9 cm. So it's the same shipping price for the complete set with the awl, and even if I add some cardboard pattern in.
Diane
Diane Deziel allo Diane je viens de voir que tu parle français alors je vais m’exprimer en français ça va aller mieux pour moi.
Je comprend très bien, mais j’aimerais aussi savoir pourquoi si j’en prend deux le shipping est aussi calculé deux fois.
Ma mère étais aussi intéressé et qd j’en ai mis deux cela revenait à 80$.
Alors si je me prend tout le kit, est ce que cela va me coute une fortune de shipping pour la même adresse?
J’ai pas été voir mais vous avez sûrement un facebook ou je peux vous parler en privé aussi ?
Merci
Sofie
Bonjour Sofie,
Avec Etsy, on ne peut pas dire combien de chose vont dans la même boite, c'est dommage, mais je n'y peu rien, alors lorsque quelqu'un achète 2 ou + objets physiques, je rembourse systématiquement les frais de shipping supplémentaires. Lorsque la personne me questionne d'abord, je leur propose de faire une fiche produit à leur nom avec exactement ce qu'ils veulent, c'est sans obligation.
Le prix de shipping est presque identique, pour l'ensemble, 2 ou 3 ensembles ou une seule règle, car c'est la même boite.
Si tu as des questions et aimerais resté privé, n'hésite pas, directement dans Etsy, j'y vais tous les jours.
À bientôt
Diane
Diane Deziel super je vous revient la semaine prochaine, j’en parle à ma maman et je vous écrit ce que nous allons prendre ensemble et livré pour la même adresse 😍
Merci et bonne fds
Sofie
Diane !
Haha je vais t’écrire tantôt finalement mais comme on est samedi, je comprend si tu me répondrais la semaine prochaine.
En passant est ce que tu es du canada ou Quebec ?
good
bonsoir et merci pour vote super page ça m a l air genial ces règles !!ce serait super si vous pouviez faire une video en francais je ne suis pas calée en anglais ;-(
Bonjour Ingrid,
Oui j'en ai fais une en français, dans Ma chaine français th-cam.com/channels/aq7zDtYsUkGeI18qFbpTaw.htmlvideos
Corsage th-cam.com/video/u4q_awa0fAUP/w-d-xo.htmloche th-cam.com/video/pPNKnTUqgtMP/w-d-xo.htmlantalon th-cam.com/video/U8NWWAlfW3A/w-d-xo.html
Comme la chaine est plus récente, les vidéos sortent moins rapidement dans les résultats de recherche, alors viens me rejoindre et abonne toi pour la faire grandir. Si tu as des questions n'hésite pas.
Diane
Diane , I have been trying to get.on tje toolfully.com to purchase the bodice grading.tool and pissibly.more. iy keeps.telling me that.the site has move , changed site.name.or no longer.exsite. would.would.direct.me.to a way to buy the item/items like a phone number (U.S.) ? I may be able.to get.on facebook but i habe been so affixed to an online buying site that.i haven't tried facebook. Not.sure.Facebook would.be a good.choice anyway. Thanks . I may also buy the pant tool if available .
Hi Cheryl, My boutique move to www.etsy.com/ca-fr/shop/TOOLFULLY?ref=seller-platform-mcnav I can now manage myself and reduce the shipping cost and all free PDF are on my Wix site dianedezie7.wixsite.com/toolfully where I will do a blog soon.
How do you find your fix point?
Hello Jeremiah
For the horizontal it is your spine so the center of the body
For the vertical, the grading is small because adult don't grow anymore, so it depend on where we accumulate the fat and how the body change.
ex. bodice "the across the front part" is fix cause the breast goes bigger and also lower while the shoulder goes thicker. So you need a little length in both direction.
Fro skirt, there is no vertical grading.
For pants, the fix area is the hip or crotch level and vertically we just move the waist to compensate for the roundness of the buttock.
For the horizontal, the pants is tricky because it goes around the body but also around one leg. some are grading it like the skirt and the bodice, I grade it with the fix point in the middle of the leg because I think the crotch point needs to be grade a little more than the side seam.
voila all the fix points
Diane
AZERBAYCAN 🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿
Thanks i need arm for jacket with an easy bleas
There's a much more simpler way to manual grade than this method. Specially for beginners.
Please tell me about it
Diane
@@DianeDezieltoolfully Rather than working from the Cross front, my starting point would be the hem at the CF. Working clock wise, l'd get the CF neck drop, (+x 0.2), neck point (+x0.5, - y 0-.3), shoulder (+x 0.5, -y 0.6), cross front ( - x 0.3, - y 0.6), lower armhole (-x0.4, - y 0.75), bust (-x0, - y 1.25) side seam (-x0, - y1. 25).
Alternatively your starting point, working from Centre Front or your Centre Back regardless of if its on the fold or not. Working from the hem, still in a clockwise manner, pencil in the hemline and centre front. Move out on the - y 1.25,draw in your side seam, move back to your cf up on the +x, 0.2 for the CF, etc etc as l stated before, arriving at the mid armhole point and connect your mid armhole to the bust area.
@@DianeDezieltoolfullyfor those not familiar with - x, +x, +y, - y, these directions are the equivalent of Left, Right, Up, Down (West, East, North, South). Just my humble opinion as to a simpler method, especially if you're stack grading AND adding a step grade.
It seems you've done a half grade on the smaller sizes, 5cms on the regular and what did you do on the larger? 6/7.5?
Great ruler though. I only use the grading red one.
hi can u send me pdf for children grading
Hello Caro,
I can't send PDF here, just in my e-mail
dianedeziel@gmail.com
Diane
🥇🍓🏅
فري جود
To be honest, no good video. All you do is with a pencil moving it up and down and right and left. You should demostrate with paper and pencil how to decrease or increase the pattern with the measurements of the body. Thanks
Man's shirts pattern giriding
Hello Amresh,
I wish I speak some Hindi.
Most bodices, men and woman are graded the same way, with the same measurements, I will grade a shirt with a back yoke soon.
Diane
In hindi language