Don't get disheartened by some of the negative comments, while what they've said may or may not be true take it as a form of constructive criticism, really enjoyed the video and board looks super neat! Would like to see the testing side of things in the future, but as you only have two videos on your channel I get you're just starting out and may not have the time or gotten used to filming yet! Keep it Up!
Amazing work I never got to that stage ever I'm retired now but would of loved to have your knowledge and hands when I was your age...thanks for sharing
I wish my 1st video was so well filmed and presented. I always exclude certain bits of a job to stop DIY attempts. You don't have to show testing or safe isolation unless you want to mate 💪. Some of the detractors in these comments need to give their heads a wobble. Someone trying to get started with some content to help grow and build a business. Credit to you buddy and keep them coming. Dress your boards how you want and make your videos how you want. I would be more than happy to open a CU like that and test it down the line. Subscribed 😀
Nice tidy job! I am interested in how you got around the need for 30mA RCD protection on the tails, as they run through the fabric of the building? It seems to be a common finding and I struggle to suggest cost effective solutions!
I don't know why consumer units can't be designed so the main switch can be on either side. As far as I can see the main problem is that the two terminals on the main switch are labelled N & L and that the neutral and earth terminal bars would need swapping over (there may be some asymmetry in the neutral terminal bare for the large gauge neutral wire, but I'm sure there's a simple solution to that). As far as the main switch is concerned, then the N & L markings almost certainly don't signify any functional difference between the poles. Some stick-on lables would fix that.
@@chrismoyler I don't know specifically about the Fusebox CUs, but on the MK and Wylex ones, the main switches are entirely symmetrical save that they are labelled N & E. The terminals at the bottom are identical, and the busbar would fit either way around. The Earth and Neutral bars would need swapping over, but that's no big deal. I can only think that the main switches are marked N & L to avoid errors, but that's about it. An even vaguely competent electrician could work out which side was attached to the bus-bar. Also, on split RCD boards, the main switch doesn't even attach to the bus bar in the first place. It's only the RCDs that do that (not that I would recommend split load RCD boards). nb. the MK and Wylex boards have left and right hand mounted main switches respectively.
I have noticed that in the past yes, the only way around it is a better fixing on the buzz bar it seems. I used to fit a lot of Eaton MEM 3 single phase distribution boards and the main switch was bigger that the RCBO's! That was my biggest pet hate ever!
1:37 not adhereing to safe isolation procedure! That main switch should have been locked off. What if somebody that didn't like you decided to turn it back back on whilst you were inside working on the system!
Hi Martin, I'm not sure if you've read any other of the comments but I did lock the board off before proceeding. It was my first video so didn't realise the importance of showing absolutely everything I do. Lesson learnt however, people want to see or hear you say it! Thanks for your comment. It all helps me produce better videos in the future. Jens.
The amount of slack you cut off those cables is shocking, if they need to be moved or reterminated you have left the next guy no length on the conductors, it might look pretty but maintenance is way more important than an Instagram photo... I get so annoyed when I go to a board and need to move things about and there is no slack because some fancy dan has come in and made not length.. Just like sockets each conductor should be able to reach any side of the board and some, its even more important for a consumer unit as with changing technology they are only likely to get bigger... Leave as much slack as you can, never cut the conductors that short, its shoddy workmanship..
Glad you said this- he ferruled all the RCBO fly leads too. You can loose all the slack behind the RCBO’S and main switch and dress in nicely. Making way more work no reason. Must like his ferrule crimper too much 😂😂
This notion that it looks better really is a load of rubbish. It’s not on show so ultimately why would it matter how it looks. It’s about common sense for the next spark who’s going to be testing and future proofing if the CU requires modifying/altering.
Hi Michael, thanks for your input. This was my first video I've ever created so as you can imagine it was a little nerve racking and I waffled on a bit. The board was tested dead with the cover off and then live tested with the cover on. I didn't remember to film this along with locking off and adding a fire seal to that back of the CU. I also didn't use a torque screwdriver until the testing was finished so that's why it's not in the video. Things that I will definitely add in the future though to keep the videos helpful for everyone. Thanks for watching. J
Don't get disheartened by some of the negative comments, while what they've said may or may not be true take it as a form of constructive criticism, really enjoyed the video and board looks super neat! Would like to see the testing side of things in the future, but as you only have two videos on your channel I get you're just starting out and may not have the time or gotten used to filming yet! Keep it Up!
Amazing work I never got to that stage ever I'm retired now but would of loved to have your knowledge and hands when I was your age...thanks for sharing
I wish my 1st video was so well filmed and presented. I always exclude certain bits of a job to stop DIY attempts.
You don't have to show testing or safe isolation unless you want to mate 💪.
Some of the detractors in these comments need to give their heads a wobble. Someone trying to get started with some content to help grow and build a business. Credit to you buddy and keep them coming.
Dress your boards how you want and make your videos how you want. I would be more than happy to open a CU like that and test it down the line.
Subscribed 😀
Thanks buddy!
Very informative! Great video
Nice neat job & very informative
Very smart install!
Nice tidy job! I am interested in how you got around the need for 30mA RCD protection on the tails, as they run through the fabric of the building? It seems to be a common finding and I struggle to suggest cost effective solutions!
Likely in the cavity. No ideal but existing so….. hay ho. Also therefore greater depth than 50mm so no rcd req.
Well done lovely job 👍🏻👏🏻
Neat job there bro
How do you change a fuze in this sort of box?,my shed one was blown and when I pushed it back up the light and sockets in shed still didn’t work
Top job!
How did you identify the cables? Genuine question
I don't know why consumer units can't be designed so the main switch can be on either side. As far as I can see the main problem is that the two terminals on the main switch are labelled N & L and that the neutral and earth terminal bars would need swapping over (there may be some asymmetry in the neutral terminal bare for the large gauge neutral wire, but I'm sure there's a simple solution to that).
As far as the main switch is concerned, then the N & L markings almost certainly don't signify any functional difference between the poles. Some stick-on lables would fix that.
The problem is the busbar and how it connects to the main switch.
This is clearly not reversible
Tky
@@chrismoyler I don't know specifically about the Fusebox CUs, but on the MK and Wylex ones, the main switches are entirely symmetrical save that they are labelled N & E. The terminals at the bottom are identical, and the busbar would fit either way around. The Earth and Neutral bars would need swapping over, but that's no big deal. I can only think that the main switches are marked N & L to avoid errors, but that's about it. An even vaguely competent electrician could work out which side was attached to the bus-bar.
Also, on split RCD boards, the main switch doesn't even attach to the bus bar in the first place. It's only the RCDs that do that (not that I would recommend split load RCD boards).
nb. the MK and Wylex boards have left and right hand mounted main switches respectively.
Very neat mate, do you ever get any tilt on the rcbo's? Drives me insane.
I have noticed that in the past yes, the only way around it is a better fixing on the buzz bar it seems. I used to fit a lot of Eaton MEM 3 single phase distribution boards and the main switch was bigger that the RCBO's! That was my biggest pet hate ever!
How do you label the wires as you remove the old breakers?
Tky
Usually with a sharpie pen 👍🏼
👍👍👍👍👍
Where are you based bro ?
Bristol 👍🏼
🙄 So where is the fire proofing on the rear entry cables? Sorry but regardless if the Job looks neat that's not safe !
Surely the fire break is the board along with construction block behind
Just out of interest why are you doing a board change here?
1:37 not adhereing to safe isolation procedure! That main switch should have been locked off. What if somebody that didn't like you decided to turn it back back on whilst you were inside working on the system!
Hi Martin, I'm not sure if you've read any other of the comments but I did lock the board off before proceeding. It was my first video so didn't realise the importance of showing absolutely everything I do. Lesson learnt however, people want to see or hear you say it! Thanks for your comment. It all helps me produce better videos in the future. Jens.
@@thecableguyukyou don’t well mate ignore that miserable helmet above!
The amount of slack you cut off those cables is shocking, if they need to be moved or reterminated you have left the next guy no length on the conductors, it might look pretty but maintenance is way more important than an Instagram photo... I get so annoyed when I go to a board and need to move things about and there is no slack because some fancy dan has come in and made not length.. Just like sockets each conductor should be able to reach any side of the board and some, its even more important for a consumer unit as with changing technology they are only likely to get bigger... Leave as much slack as you can, never cut the conductors that short, its shoddy workmanship..
Glad you said this- he ferruled all the RCBO fly leads too. You can loose all the slack behind the RCBO’S and main switch and dress in nicely. Making way more work no reason. Must like his ferrule crimper too much 😂😂
So i always think it is disrespectful to cut conductors.
This notion that it looks better really is a load of rubbish. It’s not on show so ultimately why would it matter how it looks. It’s about common sense for the next spark who’s going to be testing and future proofing if the CU requires modifying/altering.
@@rjkelectrical6086 I think stranded conductors must be ferruled especially 10mm² cables and smaller ones.
@@IAmThe_RA the pre made fly leads come soldered solid, they only become stranded when they get cut which he didn’t need to do…..
I think you should have done your tests before you put the cover on ………….not a test instrument in sight …….no torque screwdriver .mmmm…..
Hi Michael, thanks for your input. This was my first video I've ever created so as you can imagine it was a little nerve racking and I waffled on a bit. The board was tested dead with the cover off and then live tested with the cover on. I didn't remember to film this along with locking off and adding a fire seal to that back of the CU. I also didn't use a torque screwdriver until the testing was finished so that's why it's not in the video. Things that I will definitely add in the future though to keep the videos helpful for everyone. Thanks for watching. J