Great vid! I’m planning building an HO layout in DCC. I have a lot of old DC locomotives, and this problem never occurred to me. Glad I found your tutorial! Thanks.
Very easy to understand video for beginners Harrison. Before I had more controllers (just running N DC) I put a similar switch between two two separate tracks (one inside the other) operating with one controller. Sure, you can only run one at a time, but have two different consists set up on different tracks. An easy way to switch between the two tracks with one controller. Just another use for the switch. Great job Harrison! 👍 👍 👍
I would never leave a DC loco on a DCC track, it will be ruined. DC locos are designed to run on 12v DC. What your supplying them on DCC is 16v AC. One of the design features of a DCC chip is to convert the 16v AC to 12v DC so the motor will work.
I think that big soldering gun and thick solder is giving you some trouble. I would recommend a proper soldering iron and thinner solder. Temperate control is a must-have.
I got a power cab DCC controller at a train show in Maryland I love it easy set up and run great user friendly you should get one it the best one out there
Awesome! with this and some blocks, I wont have to take any of my locos off the track. I'll just park all "either or "on a siding or yard or maybe I'll add to round houses for DC and DCC. Thx for this brilliant idea!
Dude this helped me soo much I could not figure out how to convert my dc layout to dcc but after watching this video I just converted it!!! Thank you so much this is the Most useful video I have ever watched!!! Thank you so much!!
One suggestion, for the DPDT switch you should get one that is a break before make or center off. The type of switch you used could be a make before break which means that it's possible that you have both DC and DCC going to the rails at the same time. It also means for that fraction of a second you could have DC feeding into your DCC system and DCC feeding back into your DC system. This can cause both systems to fry it as well as damage any engines on your track. Ok so would also advise if you are going to switch between them in ok n in your be layout you program your DCC engines so that CV 20 is set to turn off DC conversion, that way the decoder will not respond to DC current.
Soldering would be so much easier and more efficient if you actually cleaned the soldering iron and something to hold the switch upright with the terminals facing upwards will make soldering soo much easier...
Im HUGE into the model railroading fever again (even with school) but im definitely implementing this on my layout soon I just need advice my my specific controler
I actually designed a complex block system that uses more than three different switches just to control one block. One is a rheostat, another is a DPDT reverser circuit, while the third is a DCC/DC DPDT. Any additional switches are there simply for extra effects (like one of my home-brewed PiTrain controllers being substituted for a typical controller).
@@SMTMainline It should be able to do so in theory, but I haven't wired it up yet. It might work, then again it might not. It would be useful if it does work as the speed could also be fine-tuned as well as direction, although troubles could be encountered with trains crossing in and out of a block depending on the polarity. Here's a "diagram". Block A Block B _________________ ____________________ l l l l l l l l RVRS RVRS II ll RSTT RSTT II ll DPDT DPDT ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // ll ll // // \\ \\ // // \\ \\ // ll ll \\ // ll ll \\ // ll ll DCC ll \\ // \\ // \\ // \\ // \\ // \\// DC Key RVRS = DPDT with reverser circuit wiring RSTT = rheostat, adjustable resistor, potentiometer, etc DCC = DCC control system DC = DC control system While it is not the best representation of it, this is as close as I could get to a wiring diagram with the symbols on my keyboard. There would be an additional branch with the switches for each block.
Also, if you're wiring mil-spec or NASA spec, you need to suck the old solder out of the terminals on the switch - or better yet get a new switch. Tin the wires, add a short piece of heat shrink tubing, and then form a 'J' on the end of the wire. Put the 'J' into the hole on the switch, crimp it closed and solder that connection. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection and heat it with the soldering iron to shrink it. Do this on all six connections to the switch. On the other hand, if you couldn't care less about mil-spec or NASA specs, then the hell with all of that.
As someone who has Managed to DCC his Father's Old Locomotives. You have to put a lot of money in DCC decoders that handle the amount of Power the old Locomotives require. My Father had a vast amount of old Athearn Blue Box Locos. I went through Many 1.3 Amp digitrax decoders and had to shell out so much more money for a 3-4 Amp decoder
Look into remotoring them, both Athearn and Kato make replacement motors that will pretty much drop into most blue box locos be and run in the $40-60 (US) range.
You should never under any circumstance and I've told you this before run a DC locomotive on DCC tracks if you're using the Bachman system it does somewhat work for DC locomotives but it is a no way in shape intended to do so and if you're trying to run DC locomotives on DCC rails with the Bachman system technically you are running in DC not DCCC. DCCC is technically alternating current versus direct current you should never run a DC locomotive without a decoder if you hook up that new digitrax DCC controller you got and then put a DC train on the rails it's going to short-circuit it until you take it off of the Rails there's something about Bachman that turns it into DC whenever it detects a DC locomotive
SMT - A Lionel O scale modeler can also use a DPDT switch if they have locomotives with AC motors, & locomotives with DC motors. The DPDT switch can select either an AC transformer, or a DC power pack, to be connected to the track.
What would you recommend for DCC controllers? Asking as I recently got a Athern Genesis Big Boy, and wanting to get ideas for stuff before I begin making a layout. This video helps a lot as I have a lot of old DC trains I'd like to run at times.
I was very happy with mine and it was a good introduction into dcc, having said that. They're quite outdated at this point (they we're released in 2004) and have limited capabilities. You might be better off going straight to a higher end Dcc system like a Digitrax or NCE system. I personally have a Digitrax system and am quite happy with it, some people prefer NCE though and I couldn't tell you which is better since I have only used Digitax. Hope this helps -Harrison.
So basically I can say take and isolate my dc engine to one side of my layout and my dcc to the other side and just have a conversation track in between to flip it from Dc to Dcc. That'll play in to some switching moves nice.
Hello SMT Mainline, I'll give you a consul since I saw that you are a collector of locomotives. Do you have in mind to redeem a locomotive and which one do you want to get?
With the Bachmann track it has it so you can power from the inside or outside of the track. Wouldn’t you be able to use the DCC controller on the outside of the track and the DC controller on the inside part of the track or vice versa as long as you have the Bachmann power wires. Just gotta make sure what which controller your are using the other has no power to it.
I'm not sure I understand but you can't hook up two controllers to the same track without a switch between them otherwise power may flow backwards to the other (even if one is off).
@@GeneralLee0178 That's just so you can place the controller on different sides of the track, if you hook up two controllers that way it could cause issues.
Two questions. Im gettng a dcc ready kato gs4 and planing on installing dcc chip at a later date. Im good to run it on dc until i install the chip and conversion correct? Second question. Can i still run a bus wire with this switch setup to power most of my joiners? Thank you for your time!
You can run bus wires but make sure they feed from the switch's output and not one of the controllers directly. Keep an eye on which wire goes to which rail as not to short them. As for the DC gs4, it's totoally fine to run it on DC. DCC ready locomotives have a circuit board which directs all the locomotives power to an 8 pin socket. Before you install a decoder they simply put a bypass in the socket to allow the power to flow through.
Can someone answer my question I’ve got a railpower 1300 and Bachman track it is a dc setup, can I run a dcc locomotive on my dc track or should I buy a dcc controller for my dc track. I am fairly new and am having trouble understanding this
@@Tyc11114 Well most ho trains operate on 2 rail DC and O scale trains operate on 3 rail AC. I don't know what the situation is with DCC on O scale nor do I know if the age of the loco makes a difference. It's probably not impossible though.
You cannot directly connect them to the track without a switch. The bachmann EZ command controller has the ability to connect a DC controller to the DCC controller though.
@@SMTMainline THE POWER SUPPLY to the track in dcc is universal .in dc each section of track is controlled by the regulator the points - in dcc the frogs are changing from posotive to negative via a switch so if you run dc on a dcc wired point will it not short out
I'm probably going to use this way to put dcc to my dc layout because if I have both then I can use all my dc locos with dcc ones that I buy because dcc locos are usually alot more detailed than dc
Its butter to run dcc on dc than dc on dcc dcc is intended to run on dc it has a full Bridge rectifier in it you're not going to hurt anyting but running that DC locomotive on DCC rails you're going to ruin the locomotive and the power unit
Great vid! I’m planning building an HO layout in DCC. I have a lot of old DC locomotives, and this problem never occurred to me. Glad I found your tutorial! Thanks.
Very easy to understand video for beginners Harrison. Before I had more controllers (just running N DC) I put a similar switch between two two separate tracks (one inside the other) operating with one controller. Sure, you can only run one at a time, but have two different consists set up on different tracks. An easy way to switch between the two tracks with one controller. Just another use for the switch. Great job Harrison!
👍 👍 👍
I would never leave a DC loco on a DCC track, it will be ruined.
DC locos are designed to run on 12v DC. What your supplying them on DCC is 16v AC. One of the design features of a DCC chip is to convert the 16v AC to 12v DC so the motor will work.
I think that big soldering gun and thick solder is giving you some trouble. I would recommend a proper soldering iron and thinner solder. Temperate control is a must-have.
People: “Doing DCC is so hard!!!”
Harrison: *makes a simple step-by-step tutorial on how to do this *
Thank you!! I have been scratching my head about this for quite a bit and the solution was so simple!!
I got a power cab DCC controller at a train show in Maryland I love it easy set up and run great user friendly you should get one it the best one out there
Did you get it this last weekend? I was also in Timonium for the train show
Awesome! with this and some blocks, I wont have to take any of my locos off the track.
I'll just park all "either or "on a siding or yard or maybe I'll add to round houses for DC and DCC.
Thx for this brilliant idea!
DC and DCC in the layout.
Excellent 📹📽️🎥.
Powerpack and digital control.
DC and DCC locomotives, with sound.
This answers my questions that I had in tonight's live video. Thank you for putting out great content. 🚂
Dude this helped me soo much I could not figure out how to convert my dc layout to dcc but after watching this video I just converted it!!! Thank you so much this is the Most useful video I have ever watched!!! Thank you so much!!
One suggestion, for the DPDT switch you should get one that is a break before make or center off. The type of switch you used could be a make before break which means that it's possible that you have both DC and DCC going to the rails at the same time. It also means for that fraction of a second you could have DC feeding into your DCC system and DCC feeding back into your DC system. This can cause both systems to fry it as well as damage any engines on your track. Ok so would also advise if you are going to switch between them in ok n in your be layout you program your DCC engines so that CV 20 is set to turn off DC conversion, that way the decoder will not respond to DC current.
As long as the switch is thrown to the desired controller and the power is off that wont happen, but yes if the power is on you are correct.
Rat tail switch.
Chamber DC to DCC.
Soldering would be so much easier and more efficient if you actually cleaned the soldering iron and something to hold the switch upright with the terminals facing upwards will make soldering soo much easier...
That’s an awesome idea Harrison at least it’s nice and simple and have an awesome day Harrison
That was very cool and simple. I may do that in the future.
this is very helpful since i now have a DCC locomotive
Great video! I might do this for when I build my layout some day
Im HUGE into the model railroading fever again (even with school) but im definitely implementing this on my layout soon
I just need advice my my specific controler
That seems really simple to do. Thanks you for showing that
I actually designed a complex block system that uses more than three different switches just to control one block. One is a rheostat, another is a DPDT reverser circuit, while the third is a DCC/DC DPDT. Any additional switches are there simply for extra effects (like one of my home-brewed PiTrain controllers being substituted for a typical controller).
Brilliant, so you can change the direction on any given section?
@@SMTMainline It should be able to do so in theory, but I haven't wired it up yet. It might work, then again it might not. It would be useful if it does work as the speed could also be fine-tuned as well as direction, although troubles could be encountered with trains crossing in and out of a block depending on the polarity.
Here's a "diagram".
Block A Block B
_________________ ____________________
l l l l
l l l l
RVRS RVRS
II ll
RSTT RSTT
II ll
DPDT DPDT
ll ll // //
ll ll // //
ll ll // //
ll ll // //
ll ll // //
ll ll // //
\\ \\ // //
\\ \\ // ll
ll \\ // ll
ll \\ // ll
ll DCC ll
\\ //
\\ //
\\ //
\\ //
\\ //
\\//
DC
Key
RVRS = DPDT with reverser circuit wiring
RSTT = rheostat, adjustable resistor, potentiometer, etc
DCC = DCC control system
DC = DC control system
While it is not the best representation of it, this is as close as I could get to a wiring diagram with the symbols on my keyboard. There would be an additional branch with the switches for each block.
Ah yes! Thank you! that’s so easy! What kind of switch do you need again?
NVM found it on Amazon. Yay!
SMT rewind.We are looking at put our track3 dc/dcc for future runs.Approved video for SMT manual.thanks Harrison🚂🚃🚃🇨🇦
Cool video. You need a desoldering tool so you can clean out the small holes in the switch for better connectivity...IMHO anyways....
Also, if you're wiring mil-spec or NASA spec, you need to suck the old solder out of the terminals on the switch - or better yet get a new switch. Tin the wires, add a short piece of heat shrink tubing, and then form a 'J' on the end of the wire. Put the 'J' into the hole on the switch, crimp it closed and solder that connection. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection and heat it with the soldering iron to shrink it. Do this on all six connections to the switch.
On the other hand, if you couldn't care less about mil-spec or NASA specs, then the hell with all of that.
Great idea ill use this setup for when i build my layout
As someone who has Managed to DCC his Father's Old Locomotives. You have to put a lot of money in DCC decoders that handle the amount of Power the old Locomotives require. My Father had a vast amount of old Athearn Blue Box Locos. I went through Many 1.3 Amp digitrax decoders and had to shell out so much more money for a 3-4 Amp decoder
Look into remotoring them, both Athearn and Kato make replacement motors that will pretty much drop into most blue box locos be and run in the $40-60 (US) range.
You should never under any circumstance and I've told you this before run a DC locomotive on DCC tracks if you're using the Bachman system it does somewhat work for DC locomotives but it is a no way in shape intended to do so and if you're trying to run DC locomotives on DCC rails with the Bachman system technically you are running in DC not DCCC. DCCC is technically alternating current versus direct current you should never run a DC locomotive without a decoder if you hook up that new digitrax DCC controller you got and then put a DC train on the rails it's going to short-circuit it until you take it off of the Rails there's something about Bachman that turns it into DC whenever it detects a DC locomotive
Would be easier to read with periods. Please
@@stevefranklin2769 I'm sorry your Illiterate
Just seen your video nice and easy great Pat Quinn IRL
Still fun and a great video for those who do not know how to do.
great video SMT Mainline :)
You make it look so easy thanks 🙏😁
Well done. Good tutorial
SMT - A Lionel O scale modeler can also use a DPDT switch if they have locomotives with AC motors, & locomotives with DC motors. The DPDT switch can select either an AC transformer, or a DC power pack, to be connected to the track.
What would you recommend for DCC controllers? Asking as I recently got a Athern Genesis Big Boy, and wanting to get ideas for stuff before I begin making a layout. This video helps a lot as I have a lot of old DC trains I'd like to run at times.
I use a DCS51 but its getting old, my friends DCS52 was pretty nice.
Hey SMT what are your thoughts on Bachmann's DCC system? What system would you recommend it for a first Layout?
I was very happy with mine and it was a good introduction into dcc, having said that. They're quite outdated at this point (they we're released in 2004) and have limited capabilities. You might be better off going straight to a higher end Dcc system like a Digitrax or NCE system. I personally have a Digitrax system and am quite happy with it, some people prefer NCE though and I couldn't tell you which is better since I have only used Digitax. Hope this helps -Harrison.
I have the dinamis Bachmann it has all the bells and whistles
So basically I can say take and isolate my dc engine to one side of my layout and my dcc to the other side and just have a conversation track in between to flip it from Dc to Dcc. That'll play in to some switching moves nice.
Hello SMT Mainline, I'll give you a consul since I saw that you are a collector of locomotives. Do you have in mind to redeem a locomotive and which one do you want to get?
Hi Very interesting of what to do. Colin
“Random video” hahaha. Thanks Harrison. I’m going to try this and then put out my own video with a... M&M spin. ;)
I'm looking forward to that video
have you been to the Greenburg show in Wilmington MA or the Big E Show if not you should go
Can railpower work with all types of model train brands
Are there a way to do this witho it soldering?
I have that same unitary controller for n scale!
I have a DCC sound steam engian but a rail power 1300 controller and no dcc controller, what should l do
Mike's how to set me over here I sub you Keep up the good work
not recommended to run a DCC loco on DC. a rapido will burn out the decoder.
With the Bachmann track it has it so you can power from the inside or outside of the track. Wouldn’t you be able to use the DCC controller on the outside of the track and the DC controller on the inside part of the track or vice versa as long as you have the Bachmann power wires. Just gotta make sure what which controller your are using the other has no power to it.
I'm not sure I understand but you can't hook up two controllers to the same track without a switch between them otherwise power may flow backwards to the other (even if one is off).
@@SMTMainline Bachmanns 9inch straight terminal rerailer track. It has the power prongs on both sides of the track.
@@GeneralLee0178 That's just so you can place the controller on different sides of the track, if you hook up two controllers that way it could cause issues.
@@SMTMainline yeah true you would actually have to unplug the controller that you are not using from the track. I like the toggle switch better.
Very helpful, SMT
Two questions. Im gettng a dcc ready kato gs4 and planing on installing dcc chip at a later date. Im good to run it on dc until i install the chip and conversion correct?
Second question. Can i still run a bus wire with this switch setup to power most of my joiners? Thank you for your time!
You can run bus wires but make sure they feed from the switch's output and not one of the controllers directly. Keep an eye on which wire goes to which rail as not to short them. As for the DC gs4, it's totoally fine to run it on DC. DCC ready locomotives have a circuit board which directs all the locomotives power to an 8 pin socket. Before you install a decoder they simply put a bypass in the socket to allow the power to flow through.
Can I use that method with my Bachmann ez command and my Bachmann dc controller
to run a loco with a dcc controler dose the loco have to be dcc were i can control it sepreate from a diff loco????
I've been wandering how you did that
very helpful
Smt ive been looking at bowser m630s it has a dual mode decoder and thats why it ran on dc
Most DCC locomotives work on Dc but it isn't good for their decoders.
Where do you hook up the wire on the track, on the rail, or somewhere else? What am I missing
One wire to each rail
@@SMTMainline alright thank you so mich!
How can you tell if a engine is DCor DCC?
Can someone answer my question I’ve got a railpower 1300 and Bachman track it is a dc setup, can I run a dcc locomotive on my dc track or should I buy a dcc controller for my dc track. I am fairly new and am having trouble understanding this
THANKS FOR THE HELP
do you have a video on volt and amp gauges
I haven't made one yet. The controller is an MRC Tech iii 9500 series.
Do you ever get over loads on your train controllers when you switch the switches to another track to run another locomotive
Nope, the power cuts out between switching them.
So, will this method still work if one had a DC layout that has double main lines with 2 DC throttles?
It could probably be done if you wired it differently. I'm not sure how though.
What kind of switch did you use?
It's a double pole double throw switch.
whats the switch called????
Thanks for the tip do you think I could put a decoder inside a lionel postwar loco
If your talking about O scale I couldn't help you.
@@SMTMainline do you think I could
@@Tyc11114 Well most ho trains operate on 2 rail DC and O scale trains operate on 3 rail AC. I don't know what the situation is with DCC on O scale nor do I know if the age of the loco makes a difference. It's probably not impossible though.
@@SMTMainline I was thinking of putting a decoder in my lionel line's 1130 postwar loco that I had to remove the e unit
I assume i cannot hook up 2 bachmann controllers (dc &dcc) on the same trackor can i?
Please help me im just getting into model trains
You cannot directly connect them to the track without a switch. The bachmann EZ command controller has the ability to connect a DC controller to the DCC controller though.
@@SMTMainline like Switch the Cables?
fitting that switch will take care of the power suppply but the points are wired up differently for dc and dcc how do you overcome that
Are you talking about the + and - wires?
@@SMTMainline THE POWER SUPPLY to the track in dcc is universal .in dc each section of track is controlled by the regulator
the points - in dcc the frogs are changing from posotive to negative via a switch so if you run dc on a dcc wired point will it not short out
Good to know
I'm probably going to use this way to put dcc to my dc layout because if I have both then I can use all my dc locos with dcc ones that I buy because dcc locos are usually alot more detailed than dc
Yoo i have the 1300 one
Wait, thats a thing?
Its butter to run dcc on dc than dc on dcc dcc is intended to run on dc it has a full Bridge rectifier in it you're not going to hurt anyting but running that DC locomotive on DCC rails you're going to ruin the locomotive and the power unit