ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2017
- Metal diff gears here: www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopte... Thanks to Ben Lorey for showing me.
So I had taken the 12428 down to the part to do some running on 3s and right away I started noticing some problems and as I was running the vehicle the problems got worse. They got to the point where there was only drive being sent to one wheel. So I take about both front and rear diffs to find the problem in this video. Subscribe today: bit.ly/1m7duJd
Link to product: bit.ly/2lOVsg1
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that was entertaining bro. glad we found the problem that most have probably been looking for.
Thanks very much dude!
what a relief I had this problem and I've been looking for a solution for a year and a half
I was upset when I bought my wltoys car because I bought all the extra differentials that were metal to install and when I took the diff off it was already metal so double-check before you buy the upgrades
May I know which model already have metal gearing and differential?
12427 hsve metal
thanks for this video! im having the same problem and can't get those screws out that you broke. saved me a lot of time, much appreciated.
Would heating up the metal rod of helped soften the loctite or whatever?
That should help yes
Great vid. My front diff had just failed. Now I know what to look for. Cheers.
Thanx man! Great video. I just encountered the same issue with my 12428 so this is helpful.
Glad it helped, thanks for tuning in!
Be careful. As a qualified diesel Mechanic I noticed that the pinion and crown wheel back lash was not set correctly from factory. I shimmied the pinion to get the correct tooth pattern then adjust the preload on the pinion and crown wheels. Since then she hasn't slipped at all.
perfect rear are hard to fix.Your a good mechanic.Now need dia. Of shim install location and shim?Thanks swoop
happy 4th void x rc
Great movie. Thanks. Need to save for future. I had other issue, like clutch screw lose tight and there was no move on wheels. But found that main screw was issue, now all fine.
Thanks man
@@VoidXRC just an extra question, my wltoys is equipt I'm 390 motor. I wanted to move to 540, do You know if it make sense? Don't want to move to brushless due to tooany parts need to be changed
Void X I really enjoy your videos. Couple things. 1. I tried a 3s 25c battery and smoked the ESC so I have no idea how you can run a 3s pack. 2. They now have a metal geared rear axle for this model. I personally own 2 of these. I think they are great.
On 2s lipo I measured 27mph with my gps. plenty fast for this size model. For the price I think it can't be beat. I have run 10 packs through mine. I have jumped it...tumbled it. etc. NO PROBLEMS.
I plan on upgrading to oiled shocks I found for this model. I have also upgraded to a 2s 2200 pack that fits for long run times.
I added a heat sink with a fan to motor and it just fits..so motor runs much cooler now. I drilled some added holes into the interior insert next to the driver to improve air flow.
I am going to upgrade the rear axle to metal gear and thats it. I like speed as much as the next guy but why run something beyond its designed intention and then have to replace parts.
Just my two cents worth. With the cooling, upgraded shocks and metal rear axle this thing should be perfect and very durable. All the other plastic does not bother me as it is very flexible and durable.
I would like a better steering servo but that would mean a full swap to brushless and for the money I don't think it makes sense. I think for me, I would rather use that money to purchase a true hobby grade truck or buggy that is brushless and made for 3s, 4s etc.
Hope some of this information helps you and others....cheers!
Great information! Thanks for posting it. I do agree as a budget truck it is pretty good value for money especially if you just run it stock.
I have just painted my WLtoys 12428 with a black frame and orange body parts. It looks amazing
Very nice!
I believe this is what happened in my A959B where I couldn't find the problem. I didn't look hard enough. Just ordered a new diff which I would have had to anyway. Cheap plastic. Upgraded to metal gears.
Yes the plastic is pretty cheap. I just upgraded the gears in a 12428 clone to the metal ones, but better
Metal gears are a must with this car. Buy them when you purchase teh car and sell the plastic ones to recoup the costs. The axle gears are the weak link. The spider, pinion and the ring gears are fine.
Yes metal gears definitely are a much, I started seeing metal gears pop up everywhere for this after I had already use part of this buggy for other projects
This wasn't just from running a more powerful battery, mine did the same thing with the original battery!
Yes the diffs are not strong at all
Hobby grade is a marketing ploy..They install crappy parts
knowing you'll have to replace them.
The R/C industry had been around for aeons...
They know..they RESEARCH and market.
If shit didnt break....You would only have a couple and get
bored of it. Then move on to other interest...
In the mean time...it's a fucken itch you gatta scratch to get
these POS working....NO MATTER the BRAND or whatever the
hell grade they claim it to be...
Trust me...I broke every possible Hobby grade parts. lol
Very good video and excellent work.
Thank you :)
I use Ceramic Grease on all my Wltoys plastic gears 7 months running for my Wltoys 12423 on a 2s 35c with no issues
I just bought one of these along with a set of oil shocks, adjustable rods, a metal drive shaft, aluminum heat sink for the motor and a $26.70 "wave box" set from Ali Express. The wave box set comes assembled with full metal along with both diffs and gears. I think I'm going to keep the reduction gear plastic to be my chosen weakest point.
IRS too bad the upgrade parts were about the same price as the car but I think it'll be worth it.... as long as the wave box set stuff all fits.
Keeping that gear plastic is definitely a good idea! I hope that all of the parts fit well for you
@@VoidXRC
Thanks. I am also a little hesitant about changing out all the linkage bits to metal. I think I'll just do as needed to get the tyres to line up straight while retaining the excellent shock absorption the plastic on this truck provides.
Since I'll have a fully metal drive system do you think 3s batteries would be out of question?
Im thinking my next upgrade will be the wheel extenders but I'll figure that out later once my fun budget recovers.
@@VoidXRC UPDATE*
Got some good news the other day. Apparently the latest off the production line have metal gears already installed, at least in the back. Another TH-camr said the front diff is also metal, so that's all good! Would of just bought another if I would of known that!
@@Aarons14bugs That's is cool to hear that they are coming with the metal diffs now!
@@VoidXRC
Wltoys forever!
oh ok yeah definitely keep us informed on the front diff swap. that be great if the front will work. only thing is you'll have to use the front cvd half shaft off the feiyue as well do ordering the 12428 has front dogbone style halfshafts
It doesn't look good for the front diff, I just had a quick look at see if you could just swap the diff its self, the whole front diff case. For the first one everything is just the wrong size, could probably get the diff its self into the housing ok but not the input bevel gear. For the second one there are a couple of screw points that match up but the rest aren't close though, and you'd have to cut a bunch of stuff down and then it might fit but is probably too weak. And that doesn't fix the problem of not having the input dogbone. I'm not an engineer or anything either lol so my be someone else does come up with a way to make it work. I'm still gonna look around and see if I can find any other gear sets that would fit.
Void X RC yeah the 12428 front diff there calling a wavefront diff, idk but I knew there would be some drilling involved and also the dogbone problem. wonder if the feiyue front diff could accept the dogbone outdrive cups inplace of the ones on it. or concert the driveline to feiyue setup. probably just be easier to go rear wheel drive on the 12428 by using the feiyue rear diff only. If the front and back gearing would match you could just keep the front stock and just replace the front plastic gears when needed which I think the rear absorbs most of the torque stress. unless your doin high jumps which the front impact is hard on the front diff gears as well. never a 1 part swap is it. I've built 4 10 second mustangs and it's never completed, you always fine something to do something to buy..
I have destroyed 2 rears and 1 front with just 2s 35C venom batteries. The screw that broke may be reverse thread. Not sure though. I just ordered 2 fronts and 2 rears extra to have on hand until I come up with a better setup.
Thanks for another update.
I just went and tested to see if it was a reverse thread and broke another screw. I've now broken all of those screws off, oh well!
They must be locktighted or glued.
Do you know of any better differentials that would fit with out a lot of modifications?
I don't know of anything that require no mods, however you can use the rear Feiyue fy03 diff with just a small modification. All you have to do to the feiyue one is grind a couple of flat spots onto the input shaft on the diff. As the 12428 driveshaft uses 2 set screws to attach to the input shaft, the feiyue uses a through hole set screw.
Thank you!
Void X RC what about the front diff. gear ratio would be incorrect than only changing out the rear. same issue I'm about to face. If the front cant be swapped out than I an on goin rear wheel drive.
So there's a difference between these and the fy03, plastic gears in this one. I'm sure the metal internals or even a whole diff would fit front and back that'd be a good upgrade.
Yes I agree it would. I've since used cut up the chassis though to use part of it in a build converting a toy dump truck to an rc one.
Aww yea cool I see you have an fy03 anyway there in the video. I'm a new owner and loving my one.
I recently purchased a WLToys 12428 and bought the metal gear upgrade kit, when I took it apart everything already has metal parts, I bet they upgraded the new version
Yes I did hear that upgraded to some metal parts
What kind of oil or grease do I put in rear end does it come with some in it sorry new to the hobby
@@colbyturbeville2946 it comes with some pretty thin grease in the differentials. Don't use oil it will leak out. The thicker the grease the stiffer the differential.
@@VoidXRC Yea only the diff gears are metal, the spur, pinion and diff case are still plastic. A 12428 I worked on previously was all plastic but the new one I just bought came with metal gears. Oh well at least I have a spare set of I test anything up
Thanks for the help I wish you much luck with your rc
Tap the philips screwdriver with a set of linesman pliers or something alike that does not deliver overkill force and try to remove after. If it's still too tight do it again until you're able to remove the screw with not so much force. Also try to give it a single solid but not overkill hit as hitting it many many times will weaken the metal and break as well.
Thanks for the tips!
Ok so I went ahead and ordered the 9 piece turnbuckle and trailing arm set for my truck. good thing I did as I just noticed how badly bent my rear upper differential trailing arm links are, 1 is bent in an upward and 1 in a downward direction. from torque twist. we're not like that when the stock motor was in. other than the rear shock bulkheads that's it for the blue metal upgrades. I decided to stick with the plastic rear trailing arms mounts. the small pieces on the top of the rear end and the small pieces on the bottom of the chassis underneath back side. There aren't much to buy them in aluminum but I would like to have some failure points to save myself from having to buy new chassis or another new rear end. those pieces will be the pieces to break which is good since there inexpensive and easy to swap out...
Yea it's good to have a weak point for breakage, I always try to.
Void X RC I bought the 9 piece turnbuckle and trailing arm set. got alot of Japan orders I'm waiting on. I just got the vaterra diff, haven't even opened the box yet. think I'll have problems with all these parts mainly the front or is the problem more when your only buying half of the metal upgrades. seems like you had problem with tow. All my orders are within 3 days apart so I'll wait till they all get in before I rear it down. might have to order adjustable tierods turnbuckles whatever. the slide rack for the steering and rear bulkheads are the only pieces left. probably be pushing my weight limit with that. I did use a plastic set or bead rings for my alloy wheels to cut weight down since I knew I'd be adding it right back
Yea I had problems with toeing out, in the front I have the stock a arm, 2 aluminum links and then adjustable turnbuckle I made. I never received the Aluminum steering links so I don't know if those would of fixed the problem or not.
just ordered an aluminum Cree led light bar. very cool lookn design. Five 4 volt cree leds should throw some serious light. I much prefer cree style leds over basic led's. next on list is the hot racing 1 piece upper link mount bracket for the rear diff. it's a 1 piece design replacing the stock 2 pieces. it connect the upper rear trailing links to the diff itself. also an aluminum rear diff cover and the HR aluminum axle tubes for the rear diff as well. other than that nothing till I start getting all my orders in from Japan. glad the light bar is coming from the states here cause I'm still waiting on all my overseas orders. I got the driveshaft that's it. been over 3 weeks on the lower a-arms alone. think I got somewhere around 9 overseas orders and now 3 in states orders. it's the economy shipping that takes forever. the e-packet shipping usually gets here under 2 weeks.
A cree light bar! Nice! That'll be real bright and should look awesome. I've been there waiting for lots of packages to come in from overseas, the waiting sucks! haha. Sometimes I get problems with customs here leaving packages in a warehouse for months it's a real pain. I did find another pinion the same size as the one that I couldn't save, even though I've already ordered a new one. I can get that HBX up and running a lot sooner now.
Void X RC great. I'm curious to see it running brushless. Well at least you can replace the pinion you found so know you got a spare. Maybe one day try drilling out the stripped grub screw just to save that pinion. can never have too many extra parts...
Void X RC I also ordered what I believe to be the rite size servo ball for my aluminum servo arm which I still haven't been able to install yet. I bought a 10 pack. the 4.8mm size is correct it's just the thread size I wasn't sure about. and also I will say this thing drives amazing in 2 wheel drive. honestly for what I do I don't even notice a difference accept for squirrely back end in corners if I'm getting on it too hard but it's fun tbo. think alot has to do with these tires I have there great far as traction is concerned. the overall sound of the drivetrain is 100% better, smoother sounding.
just finished hooking up new control arms about to do light bar. paperwork is bit confusing when it says can't use 3s battery. I should be safe as long as I'm plugging into my radio reciever correct. not like I'm gonna plug it directly to my lipo. some are like that though but not this particular 1. says safe connecting thru bec but my esc has a bec but I'm not seeing any extra ports I just been using the extra ports thru the radio reciever. I'm new to this but don't the bec in the esc drop voltage thru the radio reciever down to safe voltage correct so it shouldn't matter if I was even using a 12s lipo as long of course my esc can handle it.... thanks bro
Both my front and rear diff had missing teeth on the ring gear and worn down pinion gear, Causing it to bind and spit out the rear drive shaft :P. I only run a 1500Mah 2s.
got some nice rigs there in your main profile picture. especially the 3 middle 1's. the orange flame lookn truggy style with the losi disc wheels and the green crawler. actually nit orange more like red yellow and some black!! look like good tires for sand tons of small spikes!
yea 3 great vehicles there! from left to right is the axial Deadbolt, Hobbyking Basher sabertooth 1:8 scale and Axial Wraith! I don't have a great place to use the Sabertooth though :/
got it back together in rear wheel and let me say what a blast in the rain. I put the stock tires on to keep from burning up the superswampers and it's actually pretty easy and alot of fun to drive. not as quick out of the hole in the grass as it was with 4x4 BUT the grass was wet it was pouring out during the test and I was using the stock tires which are small and no where as grippy as the superswampers which I feel will bring the acceleration back up. try it out today now that it's little more dry out. the Toro brushless is insane I finally got to fully punch the throttle now that I'm not running plastic gears except for spur which isn't plastic and I will say holy crap the rpm's are so intensely high you feel as if the things about to explode like an atomic bomb. it's a very smooth sounding intensely explosion but an explosion of rpm's none the less. nickname my motor the atomic bomb. the rpm's are WAY more than I expected for a 4000kv system. I put more wear on the stock tires last night than they've gotten since I bought the truck. had to get it out of my system before I put my superswampers back on. other than that I really don't push the motor too hard and let it cool down first signs of heat, maybe little over cautious...
Haha yea 4000kv motor can produce some high rpms, were you running on 2s or 3s? On a fully charged 3S that motor will do over 50,000RPM under no load.
Void X RC. 3s.... got the fayiue rear diff in also yesterday. Are they supposed to be locked?
Nope, I semi-lock mine with really heavy diff oil, usually 500k weight.
Void X RC wonder why mine is locked. might as well get my money back I don't it anyway. the vaterra has a locker unit in the carrier. they sell the same lock unit to install in the front diff for twin hammers
My son's 12428 doesn't work after the first time. May be remote control issues? Where is the antenna at?
Do both the vehicle and controller power up? But not work? If that is the case then it may need to be bound again. Look in the instructions for the binding/pairing/frequency matching instructions.
The feuyiue fy03 has metal gears I run mine on 4s 2 2s in series and haven't had a diff problem only steering problems
That's awesome! It's good to hear that they are holding up to some bigger power. what kv is the motor you are running? and have you put any heavier oil in the diff or are they just stock? I know I will be replacing the rear diff with the feiyue one and will probably have a go at making the front feiyue diff fit was well.
Brushless?
Thanks for the video. I chased this issue for days.
What are the part numbers for the shaft. The gear and screw.
I'm not sure of the individual part numbers. I found it's cheapest just to replace the entire diff for a few $$: www.banggood.com/Wltoys-1242812423-112-RC-Car-Spare-Parts-Rear-Differntial-Gear-Group-0133-p-1084243.html?p=AF261224072852015082
I'm stuck between the vaterra twin hammers and the axial yeti. if I go with the axial yeti I'll more than likely go with the brushless rtr considering I really like there motor design. I really like the vaterra twin hammers as well. the build quality of the rear diff is exceptionally high. every screw hole has steel thread grommets punched into it's composite material making for no plastic threads. if the rest of the rig is built like the rear diff than the vaterra is a must, especially for the price...
My twin hammers clone doesn't have steel threaded grommets or anything like that. Is the twin hammers rear diff you got a stock one or is it an after market one?
Void X RC stock!!
Void X RC the rear diff is the best part of my build next to the motor combo wheels and shocks which I just tore down last night took the bottom caps off and pulled the retaining clips to get inside to the orings and packed some green slime in and reassembled. Not that it would hurt but the way this goes together the green slime stays in the center of the bottom cap lubricating the shock shaft to help better seal dirt out as the shock compresses and decompress helping keep the oil cleaner longer hoping to get more life out of these silicone orings. the green slime stays inside it's working like a charm till I get some shock socks. my front shocks are still the blue Chinese brand fayiue upgrade shocks which needed stiffer spring rate for the front cantilever style setup but they held oil like a champ till 1 day last week now they leak like a dog. I'm about to order the hot racing piggybacks for the front I'm not sure if the gmade xd will fit the front like they barely fit the back..
Well I hope you got your money back. I've gotten mine so far but I do have alot I'm still waiting on. this vaterra rear diff is like gold in my hand, I'm done for hooked on the hobby. the thing is so smooth turning by hand feels like butter. I still want the HR axle tubes and waiting on my HR carrier to further support from flexing under torque. I searched and googled and googled trying to find any problems with any of the vaterra drivetrain and could not find not one problem. I found a few for axial some minor stuff but about it. figured I'd take it easy on the diff till the tubes and carriers get in but don't look like I need to even worry.
To remove broken gears you will need to unscrew small bolts which usually broke because they installed with threadlock compound. Just broke old damaged gear with side cutters, remove it and heat shaft where bolt installed on gas lighter. Then you will be able to unscrew this little bolt easily.
Thanks for the info!
You also can add heat into screw head directly with soldering iron. Just be careful not to melt plastic gear too much. Otherwise i would advice using gas lighter too, or other flame based heat source.
Palagin Oleg just just the screw head with a soldering iron. They come right out.
Hellsong89 what kind of tool is used for removing the main gear
Quad flying Mav you can use a battery trminal puller from an auto parts store, they also sell rc pinion pullers on certain websites.
Thanks a lot you solved my problem thanks! :)
Awesome!
I filled my front diff up with silicone caulk, let it cure and you have true 4wd aka Locked diff. if you do both front and rear diff. front cured before the rear FYI
Great idea, I am doing this
are the metal gears steel, or......ugh.....zinc alloy?
which do you recommend, wltoy or feiyue? in the total outcome, or are they both in a situation of breakage?
The feiyue is better overall, less breakage overall too.
i have the same car been great until i put brushless in now it struggles to reverse like its cogging, the motor and esc i tried in a tamiya and it works fine
I have the 12428 and the 12404, both have their place .....I tried bashin the 12428 and it failed.....I fixed it and took it Rock crawling and a lil mild off-road it was awesome! I run it on a 7.4v 2s 35c 1500 with a cooling fan on the motor ....35c gives it a bump up in speed and torque from the stock 🔋 (but it will run fine on a 11.1v 3s 25c 1800) just not all the time and if you go any bigger fizzle try your ESC!! .....if you bash it you'll trash it!! Now my 12404 I bash the crap outa it(reminds me of a mini JLB Cheetah) and I run it on a 11.1v 3s 25c 1800 with a cooling fan on the motor and the ESC. With the stock 2s🔋 best run was 22mph ....on the 3s 🔋 after only 2 runs (then rain) 35.23mph it was just warming up I know it will do 38!! check out my videos!!!
Yea I suspected that the 12428 would do better in a crawling role compared to a bashing one.
I decided to go with the twin hammers rear diff after watching a vid on someone who installed a feiyue rear diff on a 12428 with a 3200kv brushless and after few runs snapped the pinion gear in half. so I figured with my 4000kv brushless I'd eventually be in the same boat. I know these vaterra diffs are bullet proof and the rear has the posi lock unit. might get some planetary gears as well to switch between the 2. almost done with this build, like to get losi 8ight-e 4.0 and vaterra twin hammers. not sure which first but all 3 will be all I'll buy. of course the other 2 will get complete upgrades.
I have a twin hammers clone and it is pretty nice! I've got mine setup to crawl though, have a nice working winch on it. The Losi 8ight-e is pretty sweet too. Do you want to build the 8ight-e as a speed machine?
Void X RC probably build the 8ight-e 4.0 for speed. also lookn at that new losi dbxl-e buggy. it's same as our buggys but definitely more beautiful, lol. blue with silver accents it's amazing lookn. so now I'm stuck between that and the vaterra. it would be a toss up between those 2. I'm definitely getting the 8ight-e 4.0 as well. yeah I'll go speed build even though I baby and clean the one I got now after every run. lol Idk for me it's hard when you spend all the $$$ and more importantly time in these to just take them out and completely dog on them and not take care of them. I always like my stuff clean and new lookn anyhow.. yeah I seen that buggy you got the twin hammers clone I was goin for it before the 1 I got but didn't want to spend the extra nickel at the time. now I don't mind as much. could of bought almost 3 of those for what I've put into mine.
Can u run 3s on the stock Electronics?
What that gear called
I ran 3s on my at the time HBX thruster and the steering was twitching and not even working half the time! and I melted the 390 motor with 4 speed runs lol it's been upgraded to brushless now and it's a lil monsta! also it has all metal diff gears only thing I'm worrying about is the transmission gears as they are plastic and I don't know of any metal transmission upgrades for it :(
How fast roughly do think it was going on 3s? Good to hear that all the diff gears are metal! I think the biggest thing to keep the transmission gears safe is to not shift at speed. Though it still might be possible to find some gears that will fit.
Void X RC 25-30 mph and I give it hell 1-2 shifting the hole transmission gear set is around $8 check out my latest brushless speed run of it I shift it hard every time I haven't had any problems yet!
Great video no music
This looked DIFFicult to find out
Haha thanks!
anywhere i can get that reinforced piece on the front
I've not seem that piece reinforced sorry
I'm planning on getting a a959b for my first rc, I want to eventually upgrade the drivetrain to metal gears but I don't have a lot of cash so I'll have to use the plastic for a while, would it possibly help if I were to rebuild everything and put a fuck ton of motor oil in it?
It would probably help a bit, however the biggest thing for keeping the diffs in decent shape is throttle control. Being smooth and not just gunning it all the time can make a massive difference is how stuff wears. I also didn't have the problems until I used the 3S battery. That is not to say that a 2S won't hurt the diffs, but it is harder for it to hurt them as they don't have the same power. If you have any other questions feel free to ask
@@VoidXRC I'll probably use lithium grease, it's pretty light so it won't slow down and it's non corrosive
how do you know if the back or front diffs are damaged?
The first thing I always notice is the vehicle not driving right. You can tell if the wheels are spinning under load. hold the front two tires in the air and give a little throttle, if the rear tires don't move at all or only 1 wants to them problems with the rear diff, do the same for the front. you can also usually hear a difference in the sound too.
I need to design some type of bumper system for the top roof to protect the new light bar during roll over. thinking of screwing in short plastic posts back screw holes of the old light bar just long enough to at least on flat road surfaces keep the light bar from coming in contact with. you might of seen them on the street bikes the side faring bumpers keeps the farings from getting scratched during a spill. was gonna put them on my ninja. anyway some concept kinda...
Yea that sounds like a good idea. Earlier today I was doing some work on my twin hammers clone and after taking off the top light/luggage rack I noticed that one of the luggage rack supports was broken off completely from rolling over!
Void X RC yeah these things take a beaten whether people see it or not. why I try to just go easy on mine even though it's a cheaper rc. I like the th clone alot. The light bar I got coming is the team associated xp cree led light bar. 5 led's. it's goin to be a perfect fit. it does just plug rite into the receiver correct. my other led light kit has a Y adapter harness that I was gonna use so I can save the last port of my receiver for winch or something. Or would the y harness be pulling too much using it for the light bar.
Can I use a series connector adapter and use 2 batteries?
While that could be done I would not suggest it with this rig. You'll want to make sure both batteries have the same capacity and discharge rate if you are going to run them in series.
Bro absolutely it is i had the same issue with my car and i used some araldite and pasted it to drive shaft and i locked my Diffs now its working propperly
so any new info on the 12428 project. I'm bout to order the rear diff the front diff the center gearbox and all the axles from feiyue along with some more metal upgrades. I got my driveshaft still waiting on control arms and the rear axle with ring and pinion from feiyue. I just ordered the internal parts to have spares for the feiyue rear end which I'm bout to get now. unless we know of anything else that will work like twin hammers or something axial brand diff that I can get.
Not really, I did install a spare feiyue rear end but the front is going to have to wait till I get some more parts in. Hopefully will be able to figure out something, will most likely restrict it to 2s though.
Void X RC well even though last week I ordered the feiyue rear diff from China last night I ordered a complete assembled vattera twin hammers rear differential along with a HR aluminum planetary carrier for the vaterra diff and the aluminum hubs and the other part of the hub that connects to the front shock, 2 piece 4 total. got the steel driveshaft in which is little different from yours this 1 seem bigger around little more solid lookn. hope it holds up like yours. till I figure something out for the front I'll just bop around in rear wheel drive. I'm thinking of ordering a vattera twin hammers kit or axial wraith. still also buying the losi 8ight-e 4.0 buggy hopefully by end of the year sometime....
Void X RC shit what I spent just last night on the vaterra diff not including all the other aluminum upgrades or the aluminum carrier I could of just bought a whole feiyue. Idk I figured by the time I'm finished, hell even at this point nothing on this rig is wltoys but the panels and body.
LoL You dont need to buy new diffs. Of course metal gears and high quality parts would be beneficial, but you can fix those. Take torch and broken drillbit on the small side like one millimeter bit. Heat it up and melt peace on both sides of the gear, so those act as stoppers preventing saft from slipping. Peace of mild steel will do the job too. Then clean the gear and just get peace of scrap plastic and fill rest of the extra space using super clue. Helps also if you didnt get perfect fit with metal peaces.
To remove screw try heating it and then use couple of pliers to turn the screw. It there is no area to crab with pliers, then try use something to cut a slot heat. Finally if nothing else works drill the screw out and and clean the treads with a tap. If you have access to small lathe its good idea to do this with that as making such small treads risks breaking the tap and then its lost cause.
Can you swap from plastic to metal diff gears
Yes there are metal diff gears available: bit.ly/2QBDWKF
great on factory stock Now why are the metal gears failing other than hard running from beam bro's rc have 5 metal having same problems
also your opinion on the rtr vaterra twin hammers. the blue white orange model. 300 bucks. I'm putting the order in I don't see any problems other than upgrading to brushless changing to better servos both steering and shift. and better servo horns and tires. everything else is good I'd think. if you got any experience with these versions share...
The only experience I have is with the twin hammers clone I have and it was easy to convert to brushless. I think it's a great proper hobby grade vehicle. I'm very glad to have one in my possession. It did have some bad torque twist when I first went to brushless but I mostly have that under control now.
good to know. Yeah it seems like it's built like the 12428 just bigger. look like it will accept 2.2 superswampers nicely. I will say if my experience with the toro brushless continues the way it has been I'll buy the same for the vaterra.
Hi there. Thanks for great video. How you maybe an idea where I can order whole front diff, pls? Thank you.
You can get the diff here: bit.ly/2SC5ynv
If the outside of the diff is fine just JB weld or glue the inside gears and have fully locked diffs it's way more fun to drive and you won't have to worry about this crap. I have the hbx transit pretty much the same RC and I in welded my diffs and haven't had any issues and I can crawl now which you can't do with an open diff anyways so why not lock them.
Thanks for the info! I have taken this apart more though and have used parts on another RC build! Used the motor mount and spur gear on a dump truck RC build
The motor will run hot and it won't be as controllable when bashing or doing speed runs
@@kylestalnaker I recently put a 3930kv in my hbx transit and it handles fine for bashing, speed runs is pretty dumb in a solid rear axle rig made for off-road your just asking to crash lol, it's like doing speed runs in a udr or super rock Rey it's super sketchy and not what they are made for unlike full independent suspension rigs
I hope you realize that a lot of people do speed runs with the UDR, hell the thing goes 50mph stock
@@kylestalnaker people do speed runs with everything but a solid rear axle trophy truck isn't made for asphalt speed runs, if they were then the drag racers would use them, it's like doing speed runs with an xmaxx it's cool and all but not at all what they ate best at.
what's your opinion on mine and how she will handle running only rear wheel drive for the moment till I get the front diff figured out. the vaterra diff is locked by the way. my first 10th scale car was nitro hpi all wheel drive so I've never driven a rear wheel drive before. think it might be more fun but with the amount to power might also get a little squirrely at high speeds
My first real RC was a Duratrax Nitro Evader! back around 2005 I think. It was 2 wheel drive but it only ever saw some pavement running. Then I got a Traxxas nitro revo and a hpi nitro savage and the evader didn't see much use after that. All of my other RCs have been 4 wheel drive too. except for once when I lost the center drive shaft in my quanum vandal, and that thing was very hard to drive with only 2wd. Had to be so light on the throttle. So I don't really have much experience with 2wd vehicles. I think the 12428 in 2wd will be pretty hard to control.
Void X RC yeah I figured that much was just hoping for a better answer. lol considering this thing in 4x4 is hard as hell to control once I went 4000kv. I appreciate your input...
You could try programming it to give way less power on initial punch of the throttle, that should probably help with fish tailing a bit.
Void X RC yeah I'm still running it at the lowest punch setting possible. and 5° timing which is lowest other than 0° which puts it in blinky mode and something bout that light constantly blinking bugs me. lol In timing mode the light stays lit red, blinks green with throttle input, stays lit green during 100% throttle input. same for both forward & reverse. has a nice low voltage alarm built rite into the esc which also is programmable.
i to had the same problem so thanks
honestly if I didn't have so much work and money into this 1 I'd just buy the feiyue and swap my aftermarket parts into it. plus I like the green monster. Kawasaki ninja green same as my ninja back in the day so I gotta keep this 1 running. I tell ya what if the front feiyue diff does work I do plan on just 1 run with rear wheel drive only, those rear wheel drives can be alot of fun especially when they got power like mine does. by the way maybe those screws are left hand thread to compensate for the direction to help keep screw from workn themselves loose, just a thought.
I tried going reverse with one of the screw and the same thing happened, broke the screw head off. I think they were just thread locked in very well.
Void X RC probably over torqued during the tightening process which put hairline fractures in the cheap metal. they probably use cordless type screwdriver drills which over tighten most of the screws due to user deglagance. any word on the front diff swap yet. gonna be tricky when the feiyue dosent have output cups for its driveshafts
Yea I commented again yesturday, it doesn't look good. that comment should be on this page.
well I installed my new driveshaft last night, I bought 2 this time around just in case of probs and sure enough testing on the bench in 2s only the keeper pin blew apart and shot out rendering the brand new driveshaft useless after 7 seconds of 2s testing, didn't even get the tires on the ground.. shit idk I'm about to start searching for a 3rd driveshaft and buy one here in a minute. I could actually put it back together and correct the issue so it never happens again or even just install the second one but no more messing around with this thing man I've found some heavy duty rc semi tractor driveshafts that will fit, I'd like to see these 1's break. I'll have to send you pic there pretty impressive lookn with the added outter ring with either 6 or 8 nuts and bolts holding it together and inplace around the yoke section. the problem is the stock driveshaft dosent work anymore due to the bigger rear end. my hot racing rear diff link will be in today I'm pondering the thought of installing the hot racing upper link mount for vaterra twin hammers rear differential upper and lower trailing arms to extend the rear axle out a bit making the driveshaft part accessibility more plentiful. shit man those aluminum links I already paid for haven't even gotten in yet thru the mail and I'm already thinking about replacing them for different 1's. rc world is crazy hey. This build already is truly 1 of a kind and I'm happy with the way it's turning out so far despite the no front diff at the moment.
Ouch damn that sucks about the drive shaft! I was having a look at your G+ page and your 12428 definitely looks pretty sweet overall! I hear you on the rc word being crazy. I've done the buying parts and then getting new better parts before even using the first ones. I try to do as much research as possible these days before buying stuff, don't always though. It's great your happy with your build so far!
Void X RC I appreciate that. I took some real quick pics of the buggy after the chop shop visit, I'll post here in a second on g+. far as for the driveshaft I got a full refund on it and the wheel hubs due to the wheels bowing out even though I didn't tell them it will be corrected with adjustable turnbuckles. but I shouldn't have to tell them it shouldn't be that far off no matter what. nowhere in the description does it say I must install adjustable turnbuckles to use this product. They let me keep all the parts. far as the driveshaft after closer inspection the yoke actually has grub nuts holding it together instead of the standard cheapo crush pins. little loctite and she's good as new. I didn't understand cause there the same exact driveshafts on all the axial product's especially all the scx10's. I'll post some pics in a minute here. still need to get longer screws for rear light buckets to get them to sit straighter... Appreciate the look in the driveshaft cause even though it's working and I have a second I think I'm still gonna get another doin as I find one that tops all others far as durability... if there is such a thing lol....
That light bar is really nice and super bright! Love it! Like the blue lights too. The place that you put the spare tire gives it a more aggressive look too.
I have 12428 and mine makes a grinding noise from the rear axle. Can you show me a good metal rear axle options if you know any.
I unfortunately don't know of any meta rear end replacements
Void X RC OK
I need help I have one and the drive lines will spin at full force but the tire only spin half that
It sounds like the gears in the diffs are starting to wear so they aren't transferring all of the power through them.
Void X RC I've only had it for 5 days before it started that
had a broken driveshaft tried to remove it and it has be glued on to the diff and possibly the spur Any tips?
You could try heating up the part with a hair drier or hot/boiling water(be careful if you try with hot water). The heat should helps break down the glue
Void X RC ok thanks
This stock cars parts are junk. After 5 mins the ESC broke, then the servo, then diffs went after 1 hours run time. I’m having fun fixing it but I’ve spent more than the car cost on repairs and upgrades. I now have a heat sink and fan on the motor as that ran real hot. I’ve also upgraded the wheels to roll over grass better and have a better controller and seperate ESC and receiver plus a quality servo and dual battery pack. Man it’s fun while it works though
just did some math. figured out in the 2 months of owning this rc adding the $80 price of the truck itself which is now higher from what I'm seeing I've got $587.61 invested in this hobby. this also includes the $15 in about to spend on another driveshaft. I honestly didn't think it was this much and even though it looks nice I'm not seeing the $600 lol. I was like wow holy shit man. who has $600 invested in a 12428, this guy rite here. and the thing about it is is it should be alot more. I got myself some kickass deals on things like the steering servo the radio the led light kit all my aluminum upgrades my wheels were good price the lightbar I just got $20 for a $50 lightbar. think all the aluminum upgrades were my biggest saving point. and technically I'm maybe 65% complete to where I want it to be. still need things like power winch, luggage rack, bungee cords, green lo glo means for undercarriage, 2 cree led light bar for headlights inplace of what's on my hood, possibly front drivetrain to get 4x4 back up and running, ect, ect... family is getting my a vaterra twin hammers for holidays. and I'm also lookn at the yeti xl along with my Losi 8ieght-e 4.0 buggy... need a second mortgage to further fund my hobby which is becoming increasingly more of a habit if anything.. I also need to create a type of bumper system for my roof to keep my lightbar from coming in contact with ground during a rollover especially on pavement which I discontinued driving on until I figure up something. even some corner rubber bumpers for the light bar itself. idk any open ideas are welcome!!!
I know how spending can be on RCs, has bitten me quite a few times. I do have another vehicle coming in the mail, who knows when it will get here, but It was a good price. I just got some new wheels for the hbx brushless conversion, they are so much better than the stock tires. I did have the feiyue that I am upgrading out on the trails yesterday that was fun, lots of mosquitoes though. I have to many ongoing projects now, hopefully I can keep track of them all properly.
Void X RC like to see those wheels when they come in. Did you get a chance to check out the fayiue upgraded diff with what appeared to be metal carrier yet. so you the hbx up and running? bet it's a bit if a beast with the upgraded brushless system in it. yeah I'll say I really didn't think I put that much into this already especially considering how much more I still want to do with it. the lightbar is a major huge improvement not only on the lighting but definitely on the looks. getting rid of the toyish lookn lightbar and the cheap lookn green wheels is the biggest improvement from low end to a higher end lookn hobby grade rc. the metal chassis upgrades also make for a more expensive and more sturdy look...
Void X RC well I can't honestly say all that money went into the truck itself, from being new to the hobby I had to start from the beginning with everything which I included into the price things like my accucell 6 lipo charger, my lipo pack 1 of many more I'm sure lol, $15 just for the chargers power supply which you have to purchase separately, big rip imo, others like large bottle of losi shock oil, couple dean's to xt60 connectors, ect. other than that the rest went into the rig itself. I have absolutely no regrets and soon as my truck driving school is completed I'll be able to buy alot more. Team Losi here I come baby!!!!! WootWoot!!!!!!!!!
I have a pic of the Hbx with the new tires here: instagram.com/p/BWKoNSsAv3w/?taken-by=voidxrc
Next week will be the running video of it. Yea accessories can add up after awhile too. I've invested in a good charger, solder station, lots of wires/shrink tube/connectors/crimpers etc.
Mine went in a little bit of water and started making a squeaking noise. But it runs fine. Also, can post a video about how to clean the bearings with WD40 please.
Sealed bearings can be pain in the ass to clean, but you should be able to read information out of the bearing and order bunch of new ones for pretty cheap. If no info can be found, get digital calibers and measure it. There is no way they would have ordered any custom bearing for such machine, so there going to be bearing to match, even though those might not be under spare part listing.
If unleased, then just make water dishwasher mix and try to remove all the grime and grease. Spinning the bearings and dipping them in water should do majority of the work and then just do final cleaning with break cleaning spray to remove all the crap. Then just check bearing condition for play and if in order apply grease.
OK thanks for the advice.
Just had the same problem. Loss of power so I took just about everything apart. Looked like no damage to any teeth on any gear. Put it back together, drove it, same problem. Should have started with your video. Do they make metal gears?
They do not unfortunately. Just the plastic spares are available. I ended up cutting up the chassis and using part of it for a dump truck RC
found a very interesting good in Gearbest：Metal Gear 2 Sets - ORANGE GOLD gearbest.app.link/LRsb3VwJJM
Do these grears work as replacement for nylon ones? If yes, what grease to put into thw diff?
Yes they are a replacement for them. I haven't personally used them but the reviews do say they work well.For the grease it is not a big concern what you use. I usually use automotive grease as it's a cheap way to get it. Just a multipurpose grease will be fine unless you want on going in water than I would suggest a marine grease(like for a boat trailer)
Void X RC thanks a lot! One more thing; is metal piece also included for the gear that stripped on your car? Any suggestions how to remove the screw without breaking it?
Yeah cause your jumping and giving it full throttle then slamming down and landing while its trying to spin the tires.
....I mean, we dont buy RC's to putt them around and treat them lightly. I have this exact WLtoys and I was jumping about 5 ft high and 20 feet out, just yesterday. We expect them to break. This was just a good instructional video. He wasnt scratching his head wondering how on earth he broke it.
I put a 3s battery in my WLTOYS12428 and smoke come out of the motor now it wont go?
It sounds like the motor is burnt and possibly the speed controller
I found out were the smoke was coming from on back of the motor there a black Diode between the - and + I cut this off and now it working well :)
Great to hear!
Nice and super
Thank you
Are you going to upgrade to metal geared diffs?
Not on this, I ended up cutting the chassis up and using the motor mount and output drives on a dump truck build. I did however just upgrade the gears to metal in a 12428 copy, the sports drift gs1002. The gears are the exact same along with a bunch of other parts on it.
Yeah, I just read most of these comments. 😂 I apologise for asking that as you have already answered that many times. I didn't know until I read further to see how many times you had to repeat yourself.
Thanks! haha it's all good though :)
what 32 battery where you using i plugs a 3s into mine and it fryed the esc
I believe the battery I was using was a 3S 1300mah 50C lipo. This is the exact battery I used: www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=TGHL13003C50X
maybe i just had bad luck this is the 3s i used and as soon as i pluged it in the beep it makes was really loud and then only thing that would work was the turning servo
www.ebay.com/itm/ZOP-Power-3S-11-1V-1800mAh-30C-T-Plug-LiPo-Battery-for-RC-Quadcopter-Car-Z1E7/192280903226?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Ahh yea probably just bad luck, although I'm surprised my esc is still working. As these esc aren't rated for 3s, I don't think any of them would last if they had regular 3s use.
mine done this aswell also the motor fried :(
But once you buy the new diffs, the same thing will happen. I am experiencing the same thing and only use 2C packs.
There are some all metal diff upgrades available, I'm going to be ordering them soon and trying them out.
I want to use the metal equipment from the FY01/02/03 but if you notice ,you will have to buy all new connecting shafts and front drive shafts as well.
Yes I have seen that. There also seems to be some metal diffs specifically for the wltoys but even then it looks like for the front diff you still need new drive shafts. A bit frustrating to say the least!
I have that problem to
I ended up not fixing this problem and cutting up the chassis to use in other project
You should spray with WD-40 bofore taking out the screws
If its tread locked, WD wont do much, but yes it should help once screw gets moving. Before that one should try get some heat on the tread lock compound, so it breaks before metal does. Solder iron should do the job with out melting the plastic gear.
3:44 slowed video down to 0.25, still hearing chipmunks
😂
@@VoidXRC can't say i'm not glad i got your attention, hi! :) quick question, i'm curious what's your opinion: do you think these wltoys cars that come by default with 2s can be run on 3s without burning out the circuits? just got myself a wltoys 12402a with a 550 brushed motor and is really nice, but would be even nicer to pump it up with 3s :D just afraid not to burn it completely
hiya I just purchased one of these can you tell me what size of o ring's I need to purchase to fill the shocks with oil buddy or anyone
I think the bottom oil ring needs to be Dash -005(3/32 Inner diameter). I'm not sure for the top o ring though
+Void X RC thank you very much i was trying to find a rc car shocks seals kit but I'm not having any luck my friend it helps when you have a size to go with it my first rc car thanks very much I'm sure I saved a few Oring kits with the 0.5 and up woohoo lol can I ask how did you get on with your drive problem I seen a few people have had this problem and I was going to order metal gear drive set & upgraded diffs just to be on the safe side don't I did order oil shocks aswel from Banggood.com but it gony be a few weeks lol and thanks for your help and advice very appreciated :-)
At the time I had the diffs fail the metal diff were not available so I actually ended up cutting the chassis up and using the motor mount and drive shafts to power a toy dump truck I was converting. I do have two feiyue fy06s though and on those I ended up replacing the shocks with ones that hold oil. I would definitely recommend the upgraded gears/diffs. If you have any other questions feel free to ask :)
+Void X RC thank very much yes iv ordered a full metal gearing upgraded kit and shocks & metal hex but Im a bite lost I'm search eBay for oil but I can't work out what 60wt oil is in - cst thickness I don't have any nolage of cst oil range 900cst - 300.000 lol I just don't have a clue haha but yes iv managed to upgrade everything apart from axles & drive shafts I'll have to wait till payday for the rest :-D happydays lol
@@wdavie27 it's like 10$ for aluminum upgraded shocks on bangood lol and that's for all four
instead of taking off the end cogs off the drive shaft where they wore away to just a circle i would of left it as and cleaned it up and injected chemical metal either side of it to fill the void that would of held up
I had thought about trying that with an epoxy, but thought it might just end up slipping after awhile. The other idea I had was to drill a hole through the gear side ward, then insert a couple of small screws and epoxy them in to take up the space where the plastic wore away.
think your way sounds better would have to be tiny screws though
Where did you find the parts ?
which parts are you asking about?
I went on bang Good and put the gears and such on my wish list ... where did you buy the new differentials and a link if possible, thank you ?
Front diff: bit.ly/2rKhfr2
Rear diff: bit.ly/2sph4n2
Thank you very much, I ordered extra parts ... I'm set ;- )
You can buy the metal gears for around 10 bucks
Yes metal gears are available now
Hi, how you can drive on 3s? My Car smoke immediately on first Throttel with 3S T.T
For 3S on this RC you need to replace the electronics, so a new servo, speed controller and radio/receiver. The stock electronics just can't handle it properly.
@@VoidXRC Thanks for your Answer. But in the Video it looks like a Stock electronics in your Car. Greats from Germany.
Yes I still had the stock electronics, they don't always fail instantly. I have heard of quite a few failing instantly, and lots that have failed after running it a few times on 3s and some manage to run a lot longer on 3s. Temperature plays a big part, if it's 5-10C out compared to say 25C that can make a big difference for the electronics.
@@VoidXRC Ok that makes sense thanks a lot.
Lol it's your tire pins they fell off or broke off happens frequently with mine
Still had all the hex pins, the diff gears were definitely messed up
I heard you can just use twin hammers rear axle. and 90 percent of twin hammers fit wltoy 12428
the twin hammers stuff is bigger as it's 1:10 scale and not 1:12 like the 12428, not sure how well stuff from it would fit. There is another wl toys that is a clone of the twin hammers though.
Void X RC iv learned that the rear axle from twin hammers does fit the 12428 with very little mod. almost direct fit. the wheelbase is shorter becouse the arms mostly to consider it 1 12.
Hrmm I wonder how it would preform. I do have a wltoys twin hammers clone my be one of these days I will check. I actually just swapped a spare feiyue fy03 rear end onto the 12428.
in my feiyue fy02 i got the same problem replaced diffs now all got i run a whole brushless system 4500kv
btw it has metal gears
Nice how fast does it go with a 4500kv motor?
That's pretty fast for the feiyue!
Look up the app "CalcRc" on google. You plug in the internal gear ratio, pinion size, spur size, motor kv, battery voltage, and tire size, it'll calculate your speed very accurately. I use it all of the time. It's not in the play store anymore so you'll need to google it. It'll be the first link, download the apk
Il have to go very calcrc a try, thanks for the info
is there an upgrade?
Nope not for the diffs
fy03 ones didnt work?
Where you running lipos?
Yes a 3S lipo
@@VoidXRC Oh right, would it be okay to run 2s lipos?
@@robcrawford9657 Yes it is meant to run a 2S lipo so so it won't be a problem
@@VoidXRC I didn't know that, i think i'll get one now i know it uses lipos, hope you get the diff sorted.
Thanks! I actually ended up cutting the chassis up and used parts of it to convert a toy dump truck into an RC one :)
hey man nice video's i've got a question would you reconment the WLtoys over the feiyue? i dont know wich one to buy...
I personally think the feiyue is the better buy overall. The wltoys has weaker plastic, weaker differentials and is not as up-gradable.
Okay! Thanks for the reply. And how about the HBX 12889 Thruster?
That's a tough one. I'm really liking the Thruster a lot, but I don't have enough run time with it yet to know how it holds up compared to the feiyue. It has metal dog bones in the front compared to the plastic drive shafts on the feiyue. It has better electronics than the feiyue in that it uses normal 3 wire servos so you a ton more options on servo replacement and it makes upgrading to a brushless system easier.
Void X RC Okay i think im buying the hbx :) i also see you have made it brushless i think i want to do that aswell right away, i was just wondering what you have done with the transmitter?
Unfortunately you have to replace the radio and receiver too. The stock receiver is a combo unit with the ESC.
I'm ordering completed front and rear differentials off the feiyue and installing them on the 12428. The rear won't be a problem the front I'm not sure about but if it don't fit in the front than I'd rather go rear wheel drive from now on than replacing garbage plastic gears every weekend... hope you are reading this wltoys! make metal gears for the 12428 shit you made everything for the 949 1/18 scale buggy.
I'll be using the rear end off the feiyue too, I have a spare front diff right now so I might see if I can get that to fit somehow too. It's definitely frustrating some of the choices that they make.
Mike Fahner i have a litehawk max4x4. which is basically the 12428. ive got a 3's setup in mine and have been killing diffcup gears exactly like you guys. ive been toying with the idea of a vaterra twin hammer swap for entire front assembly and rear end, diffs and cvds. its 115$ shipped in canada which isnt bad. but at that point ive got around $450+ into a truck. really makes me wonder if it would of been worth the high entry price of the vaterra rtr??? oh well atleast it looks sick !
TroBudden yeah I've dumped alot if money in the short month I've had the 12428, I know what your feeln. Gmade adjustable piggybacks 4000kv toro 60 amp brushless which does standing backflips in the 12428 flysky gt3b radio austar aluminum beadlocks along with 1.9 superswampers plus another set of 1.9 beadlocks valineon cooling fans just to start not mentioning the parts still in shipment like hardened steel driveshafts aluminum control arms aluminum steering components jx 20kg servo with aluminum arm that I still can't find a ball end for. Guess by the time I'm done the cheap rc should be a pretty decent 1. Lookn at a set of those fast eddy bearings any ideas on a good bearing set you can think about let me know hey. Nice setup by the way sucks experiencing probs but least I know I'm not the only 1 out there. Guess if your not breaking something your not havn fun!
Ya know bro also I been lookn at those nice replacement diffs for the axials and whatnot. There like $150 a set. Been pondering the same thoughts. With those diffs these rc' s would be in a whole new class.
Lol just got shipping confirmation on the aluminum control arms, yeah 4 days later just to see a delivery date of September 12th. Lmfao September fuck I'll be dead by than.
Ok so I've decided on the axial yeti. now I need to decide between the kit and the rtr. normally I'd go kit but the yeti has castle electronics with spektrum radio and their brushless motors are real nice imo. hope I'm not making wrong move on not goin with the vaterra. if so than I myself Will buy the vaterra which I'm sure I will one day. the yeti is a gift so it will be a minute still. I really really like the yeti body style and color. like their offset axles with adjustable ring & pinion backlash. offset axle great for clearance. comes stock with front and back sway bars and stock with titanium reinforced lower axle trailing arms. metal gears in all the diffs and the transmission as well. All this you have to purchase seperatly with the vaterra. what's your opinion on the 2. I truly believe in making a great choice on both actually but I think the yeti is that much better, definitely alot more $$$ for aftermarket hopup parts.....
Yea I think the Yeti is a better vehicle overall. Ever since the 1:8 yeti came out I have wished I had one but just too much $$. I think the yeti is better at handling more speed too over the twin hammers.
Void X RC that's what I was thinking but that's due to the sway bars which the vaterra is a purchase separately item. you really need the get this vaterra diff in your hand and feel how smooth the axles turn, it's almost amazing honestly. the build quality is very solid. the yeti seems good also but the rear diff and the sway bar almost are on the verge of lookn almost like Idk too much plastic or maybe lower grade plastic. Idk just seems like how it looks but pictures don't do justice that's for sure. I look at mine even and mine looks alot nicer in person than in photo so I got to keep that in mind. think it might be the rear axle trusses on the yeti that's throwing the whole too much plastic goin on I think. the cost to build the yeti is high which is something I have to remember but the parts are nice lookn and plentiful for sure. so..... do I go rtr or kit. the rtr offers alot for the added 100 BUT I swear my toro brushless has more power than that yeti brushless and even though the Toro brushless combo is only $80 I still need everything else so it would in turn cost me more. I'm also not a tactic fan, spektrum for me!!!
Void X RC I pulled the rear diff cover off last night just to check on the gears and see how the grease was holding up. the gears are made like impact sockets, hardened steel with a black coating. well I half expected to see some silver wearing thru the black at least on the edges or at least the tips of the gears and nothing. no signs not even any discoloration of the steel indicating normal wear. so whatever kind of steel it's certainly hard as hell. my lithium grease to my surprise is sticking to the gears rather well I might add. far as those pictures of the driveshafts I posted last night since you never gave me an answer lol I went with #1, the GDS RACING driveshaft. I found it here in the states and I was like hell yes just to find they were out of stock so I had to order it overseas. this my last overseas order till I get all my MIA orders in...
I did reply! I said I liked the GDS ones :) All good though, That's great to hear about those gears in that diff! Sounds like that are properly hardened and everything. Might have to upgrade the rear diff in my twin hammers clone.
Void X RC it would probably fit yours easier rear and the front. I'm still not sure if I'm goin to try buying the vaterra front diff or not. The front seems a different story considering everything that's bolted to it shocks front hinge plate and control arm pins kingpins ect. honestly the back wasn't impossible by any means it does fit just those few minor adjustments but the fact the gearing dosent match the stock front despite what anyone else says. they do NOT. lol I was just messing with you but yeah the GDS "racing" driveshaft shipped out 1:13 This morning so well see how it holds up to its name. seems like it will. it certainly looks tougher in the pics than mine do.. think it's goin to take more a beaten while in 2 wheel since it won't have 4 wheels to distribute and even out the torque load to... yeah I did half expect to see even a little silver shine wearing thru some of the teeth on the ring gear considering I have been gettn on the throttle bit harder now, still at °5 motor timing.
got a recommendation for me for a sturdy 70mm driveshaft...
I'll look up some in a bit and see If I find anything I think would be good.
Void X RC thanks. got to admit though I'm amazed that these I have have removable yoke sections. might be good for repairing or replacing the yokes which get the most abuse.
correction 76.2mm 3 inches at it's shortest. sorry
What were the hardened metal drive shafts that you tried already?
Void X RC all 3 were off eBay. the last was sold for the axial scx10 I scrolled down and found the same ones in smaller size 80mm to 110mm steel universal driveshaft it's called. and the first was named the same but it looked more like a real driveshaft with the u-joint yokes and what not
very informative video gjb
it those make miss my wltoys 12428 wlready waiting 4weeks to find the send it to the wrong address 2000km away from my house and now gearbest ask me to pay 10 euro to re ship it 😭
they make the mostake and want me to pay for it.... grrr
Damn that is a bit ridiculous if they want you to pay for their mistake.
yes they wanted me to lose money by re-shipping it pay 10 euro and lose money if I choose for a partial refund the price minus the 10 euro for shipping...crazy é?
they are making the money so if something goes wrong they must take the hit... luckily i paid with PayPal is a good stick to have behind the door... ready to knock them out!! but after a lot of bitching of my part, they are giving me a Full refund but they had to talk with there manager
Wow I've never dealt with gearbest before but it sounds like they aren't that great to deal with.
I only bought a few Micro Drones from them before with no issue's
I didn't know that their customer support sucks that much
of course, they never get a penny from me ever again!
not even when they got a super deal I only paid 53 euro in total for the wltoys 12428 and you don't find it any cheaper than that on the internet today most cost 80 to 120 euro and some even there to ask a 150 it's a nice car but not worth that much lol
I try to keep it cheap knowing we have to repair and upgrade it a lot and most of my Rc are build for 50 dollars
so it don't hurt that much if you break or lose something
get the metal gear kit for that car
This happened before the metal gears were available, and I already ended up some some of it's parts on another project.
subbed
Thanks
Alguém poderia me responder se a bateria dele aguenta muito tempo? E se quando ela acaba a luz fica piscando e o carrinho para de funcionar?
Dependendo de como você o dirige, 8 a 15 minutos de tempo de execução. quando a energia fica baixa, ela fica mais lenta, indicando que a bateria está sem energia.
Obrigado amigo por responder! Acabei de tirar minha duvida ele realmente tem a bateria fraca mesmo
Hi again, I've got another question. So I have a wltoys 12428 and the esc receiver melted after a water run. I want to get a good receiver for it but I don't know what kind of esc to use on the stock motor (540). Would you have any ideas?
Hey, If you want to replace the esc/receiver that means that you will need a new radio and receiver, new esc and a new servo.
The 5wire stock servo won't work on hobby grade receiver that is why it needs to be replaced.
Here is a esc that would work well: bit.ly/2FptgwP
Here is radio/receiver: bit.ly/2vmagut
And here is a servo: bit.ly/2siIpXW
If you have any other questions feel free to ask
Void X RC thank you some much for the help. Can't wait to get the parts!
yeah Idk I'd have to agree maybe with the feiyue being a not so much better but more durable overall rc. the 12428 does have the bigger motor and all metal drivelines. I just don't understand throwing all that especially a 540 can at plastic gearing and expect a good outcome. the 12428 should of been equipped with the feiyue's 380 can size motor. I mean is that much really to just throw in metal gears in the front & back diffs. come on wltoys!! I hope your reading this. you guys really messed up here great setup lots of power but the power is lost thru the plastic drivetrain. It's time to off the A 949's or whatever those little shit cans are and start making some metal gear upgrades for the big boy rc's like the 10428 12428 and few others to speak of....
I've definitely noticed that some of the companies that do more beginner/toy grade stuff can have a hard time getting into hobby grade gear. I don't think they don't realize that spending a bit more money on their products would get a lot more people interested in their products. So they just sorta half do it. The feiyue(more so on the electronic side) and the 12428 are both good examples of it. that said sometimes they can still be turned into something awesome. I do really like both of my feiyues and I'm definitely impressed with how well physically the feiyue has held up, not so much it's stock electronics.
Void X RC yeah I'll say I didn't spend to much time actually really none on debating between the feiyue and 12428 since I knew I would be eventually replacing everything turning it into my own rc instead of some companies rtr version. I did by the way find a set of fast eddy bearings that had 4 of the different size bearings that had the 12428 uses. other than 2 more sizes it was missing it was almost as if the set was made for the 12428. I'll definitely be picking up some soon. still haven't gotten a ball for my servo arm, pretty sure I got the correct size hunted out.
Just lock the diff
I've already used parts of this for another project so can't do that now
complete garbage. I'm completely pissed off at this company for using nylon gears in a drivetrain powered by a 540 motor. that's where their brains started to fart out at. gotta stay away from jumping any rc that has nylon gears, the impact of the landing is harder on the gears than braking and throttle holeshots..
Mike Fahner it's not a traxxas!!!. Those were not normal jumps!!!.It's a toy of 60 $ ,and not 400$ traxxas . It isn't supposed to run on a 3s lipo 😤Use your brain!!!.Of corse you'll break the car when you drive it like a idiot!!!.
IMPORTKILLR R/C your mad at a 75 dollar car 😂
I am amazed that people use a $60 RC car like a $300-500 one and gets mad when something is broken. Come on bro use your head. It's like you're expecting some German quality and engineering with Chinese price. I bet you drive a prius.
it dosnt matter..My T maxx differental used to break or strip too
All the fucken time...I spent enough money fixing 1 t maxx..
I could had just purchased 2 more...lol
All i did was install a .18 engine instead of the POS .15.
The stock motor lacks power. The thing as a POS hobby grade
i got sick and tired of fixing that POS after every other run.
if I put the old .15 motor back in ...it wouldnt do jack shit or
took the fun power and speed out of it...
Then the Savage came out....It' snap the dog bone and kinds of other shit.
I had to put aluminum wheels on it...becuase the HEX slot in plastic rims
would get bigger/strip....all i did was install a .247 engine in it.
The ,21 engine lacks power
Those were hobby grade up graded metal parts.
Then the truck became a BRICK...BRICK..over 12 lb.lmao
So I upgrade everything...then the cycle would start again...via
the clutch shoes....then the spur..then the gear in the trans..
then the 2 center drive shaft...working it's way to the wheels hex.
Then the RC 10 monster truck...that thing as a POS on release.
People complain parts breaking right off the bat....