Just discovered your TH-cam channel. Really enjoying the Thunderbird videos. Hope you do more. I'll be able to refer to them when I work on my own '66 T-Bird. Good luck.
Ah memories. I bought my first of 12 T-birds back in 1974. I was a 1964. It did not run. (only 10 years old!) Towed it home and figured out the timing chain/gear set was not put in correctly by the previous owner. Not sure why he had to replace the timing chain in the first place. Straightened that out and drove it on a 4000 mile round trip! My next T-Bird was a 1966. I eventually left Ford for GM after I drove a 1964 Riviera! Man the Riviera rode and handled so much better than these T-Birds. Much less body roll and a firmer ride and better handling over all. I recently test drove a 66 T-Bird after having had many 1960s and early 1970s GMs and it was like driving a sled on jack in the box springs by comparison.
Hey Sean, great video. What you just did to your 66 I need to do to mine as well. Not that it is overheating but the rad is old and I think its due to be rebuilt, not reconditioned. I also use Matts and I cant agree with you more about his quality of work. He's the man! The last two restorations I did I had Matt install the high efficiency cores into the radiators. They are high efficiency 3 row cores that are as large as a standard 4 row. Ask him about those if you get a chance. They are expensive though, over $800 P & L. He has also reconditioned several surge tanks for me and they always come out perfect. Great work. The way you described the temp gauge fluctuations where the needle pegs but the engine is not overheating, that is a classic symptom of a bad CVR (constant voltage regulator). However, when they do go bad, they will affect 3 gauges, oil, temp and fuel. If the other gauges are acting normal and only the temp gauge pegs, then its either overheating, the temp sender is bad or the wire is touching ground, or all of the above on a car that old. I've learned from experience that the timing chains last about 50,000 miles before becoming stretched out like yours. Most people do not change them until something goes wrong because of how difficult it is to get at them. I buy the kits with the steel gear instead of the nylon gear. The timing marks on your car are on the harmonic balancer and on the pulley. Since the pulley covers the harmonic balancer, they put timing marks on it. Thats a better setup anyway because the pulley does not go bad where a harmonic balancer has rubber that disintegrates and then the outer ring which has the timing marks on it, spins around. Well that's just great if your trying to time your car. Usually, not 100%, but usually a stuck needle and seat (one that lets fuel pass when closed) is because of debris, rust and dirt. It is very very common for these cars to send debris through the filter and into the carb. It must be from the fuel lines if you replaced the tank. I think you checked the entrance of the fuel line at the tank but you could have rust somewhere else in the fuel lines. The fuel filters do not filter debris like they should, they allow fine rust particles to pass. Check the float bowl and see. Also check the floats in the bowls and see if there is fuel in them. If so, they will try to sink to the bottom of the bowl and open the needle and seat. I have found that the brass floats can leak fuel in them and work one day and not another. I guess it depends on temperature and other factors. Nice video. Thanks for taking the time to make that. Good luck, Nick
Thanks Nick, it just seemed like the most opportune time. I would hate to be stuck in the middle of nowhere and the fiber cam gear break! As for Matt's, they do great work. I'll ask him about the HE cores when I speak to him next.
I'm really enjoying your T-bird series. My dad has a 66 Q-code convertible that has been sitting for the last 30 years. Hes retired now, and it is getting closer and closer to the top of the project list. I'm looking forward to getting through the rest of these videos! I hope to do a rt-66 pilgrimage myself one day.
Thank you very much. It was a joy to bring this classic back to life! Now my dad is enjoying it in TN! You’ve got a rare car there, take good care of it! Sean
I have been in the car fix in’ biz for almost 50 years. There are certainly some great old cars but until about 30 to 35 years ago loads of cars ran hot in summer. Buick’s were often called “Hot boxes” by my co-workers as they were about the worst offenders. Plugged radiators are almost non-existent now. Radiators being “Rodded out” and cracks repaired was almost a given at 75000 miles for cars through the mid 70s.
New subscriber....very cool to have a TH-camr just down the road (Monument here). So far, you work on the type of things I like, so I'm looking forward to much more content.
Sean, Very nice video of some very important repairs. It is getting almost impossible to find any radiator repair facilities any more. You are lucky to have a great one that is by you.
Great video my friend! Every step you took in diagnosing and doing preventive measures for solving your overheating symptoms were spot on! As a classic ford restorer myself I can't tell you how many times I have dealt with the same symptoms you were. Although every component you replaced in actuality needed replaced anyway if I were a betting man I would say your true culprit all along was your coolant temp sender. I have had those go wonky on many an fe motor and get the same symptoms you were experiencing. Fyi.....good on you for taking the time to explain about that bottom bolt going through a water jacket. You would be surprised how often people miss that. During this current time we are all going through and since the car show season is a wash I am taking the time to redo some stuff on my 56 thunderbird. I have been toying around with the idea of upgrading the brakes, cooling system, and a/c???? My back and forth issue is taking away from its originality. Hope you and your family are staying safe and doing well.
Hi Rick! Thanks again for your encouragement ! It's always hard to not be a parts changer, and actually diagnose the problems on these older cars. We're staying safe, hope you and your family are well.
Ever try changing a fuel pump on a 1966 T-Bird on Interstate I-94 in downtown Minneapolis in February around 10 degrees F on your back with gas dripping down your coat sleeve and semis whipping by at 65 mph? It is SO HARD getting the bolts to start without cross threading with the cam pushing down on the pump arm when your hands are so cold you cannot feel them. True story 1975.
Gee, you mentioned noisy alternator bearings. Is that next??? You're really knowledgeable about cars, more than I am. Great for you!! N -joy that bird.
How is it running, temperature-wise, since the cooling system work? My friend has a '65 T-bird (same color as your '66, which is neat), and it has the same problem. He had the engine completely rebuilt and flushed, and we swapped in a high flow electric fan, and it was still running hot whenever it sat at idle, so we installed a brand new triple core aluminum radiator last weekend, and it still pegs the gauge when there's no airflow (sitting still). If the car is moving, it stays right in the middle of the gauge. Intake temp measured with an infrared thermometer is getting up to 208°F, which feels high to me, especially since he's pretty sure it has a 165° thermostat. I'm stumped.
It runs nice and cool. Part of the problem was the constant voltage regulator to the gauges was intermittently malfunctioning, causing the gauge to read incorrectly. I put in a temporary water temp gauge and it never got over 200 even when the factory gauge was pegged.
@@AutoAnatomy interesting; I'll let him know. He wants to try adding a second cooling fan; I'll tell him to try an aftermarket temp gauge first and see if it agrees with the factory gauge. Thanks!
Another great video! Thank you for the information. I'm in the midst of replacing the timing chain set on my '66 with 109k+. Good thing too because, like yours, the chain was very slack and there were cracks all over the cam cog gears. Question for you - the cam cog dowel that engages the fuel pump eccentric was press fit on the original cog. The new cam cog, from Cloyes, did not come with a dowel so I'm having to reuse the old one. However, the dowel hole in the new cog is a fraction of an inch larger in diameter than the old dowel. It fits loose and I'm thinking will fall out under load. Did you experience this issue? If not, would you recommend a different chain set brand?
Thanks for checking out the videos, hope they're useful! As for the timing chain, there should be zero slop on the drive pin. I'm not sure if your original part is worn or if it's the wrong timing chain set, but they must be very tight fit or either the cam, pin, or gear will fail. Cloyes makes a great product so it's unlikely they oversized the hole in the cam gear, but possible I suppose. I believe Cloyes is what I installed in our 66 bird. Good luck, and let me know how it turns out! Sean
Thanks for the videos I’m thinking on getting a 66 Tbird and this video about the air conditioning is very nice too know so my only question is what parts did you have too replace on the air condition system too put in r134a refrigerant?
I picked up a 1959 Thunderbird with Factory air. I was wondering if you could post some pictures or diagram of the wiring for it. I have a red wire that's just hanging next my air conditioning that I do not know where it plugs in. It has a bear end with no connector. Enjoy your videos thank you for posting. I even sent for a 1959 manual and it doesn't even have a wiring diagram in the thing.
Another great video! I had a leaky power steering pump on my ‘66. Figured I’d replace the waterpump too. I came to the same conclusion as you that I may as well change the timing chain while was at it. Glad I did because, like yours, it was still the original set. Same stretched chain and cracks in the cam cog. Wondering if you have any trouble with the cam pin? It was press-fit in old cog but fits loose in the new cog. Both the sets I ordered from Rock Auto and my local NAPA store had the same issue, both made by Coyles I believe. Neither came with a new pin but I can’t use the old one. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
Tim, I've never seen any timing chains with a loose pin. That sounds like a recipe for disaster. I wonder if the wrong chain was put into the box. Any updates on this?
Sean, Very good vid, my friend. I like tuning into your channel and that of Vintage Thunderbird Repair. Always something new to learn from both of you. Question: What is that round thing that's connected to the carb fuel inlet line? Is it a second filter? Regards, John
Sean, Thanks. I couldn't make out what it was. In the next video would you mind doing a lighted close-up and a short explanation about it? Inquiring minds want to know. 😀 Regards, John
Hi. I hope you opt for a good quality aftermarket mechanical temperature gauge instead of trying to decipher what the factory gauge is trying to tell you. I've bought a new mech. gauge for my '65 T-Bird, but haven't installed it yet. I love the old Fords, but I've come to not trust the factory temp gauges. As you know, there aren't a lot of places to mount extra gauges on the T-Bird dash, but it might be worth the effort.
I have 2- 64 Thunder Chickens 1 is my doner body... my 390 is tore down the the timing chain and i dont know why.. thank you for this viedo to help me rebuild someone elses BS.
The 66 T-Bird is my favorite but I just saw a White 60 Convertable low milage go for £15300 (($ US 19500) Here in Yorkshire England at out local car auction, also a Mint 56 went for £22000 ($US 28600) and I wonder about US prices as there is No import duty or Tax to pay on old US cars and here in England no Road Tax and No Vehicle Test either.
Not sure about the importing to the UK, but I’m sure it’s not cheap. I’m glad people are starting to see the value of these cars, they’re truly amazing! Thanks for checking out the video!
@@AutoAnatomy It is as cheap as chips ! About $650 for my last GMC High Top Van all including UK registration and plates from Fort Lauderdale to my door in Manchester England. PROBLEM !!! The US $ was then 1.95 to 1£ . Now it is 1.29$ to 1£.
I'll be following your channel. Hope you can do a follow up on your Texas trip. ( unless you already have) Just 1 point. When the rad was being lifted out the lower bung dribbled out rusty brown fluid. Do you know where that came from ? In future services I suggest you run a flush with a clear charge of water, " before " the rad is sent out for service. Likely that brown effluent originated in the engine block. P.S. Up here in the great white north, many vintage Ford aficionados have an aluminum rad form a place like Griffin when they run there cars to shows in the summer. Much better at transferring the heat. www.griffinrad.com/ Then they keep the original rad in shape and swap it or sell it with the car. Cheers.
Caution they jump out of park + released handbrake unattended .there's a fix if you're interested these cars are a nightmare .bought mine 1970 a fire mist conv . Ps if you turn ac. In winter it clogs the drier on the 66.
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Too bad that you could not be bothered to show us the play in the new timing chain.
Hey Sean, I’m currently doing the same work to my 66 Tbird. If you have any advice for me, comment on my videos! I need all the help and knowledge i can get
Congratulations on the bird, and make sure you're subscribed to Nick's channel at th-cam.com/channels/g6Fgxc6Tqhd9g8OsmEjT6Q.html He's the absolute guru on these cars.
Just discovered your TH-cam channel. Really enjoying the Thunderbird videos. Hope you do more. I'll be able to refer to them when I work on my own '66 T-Bird. Good luck.
Thanks so much!
These are like mental health therapy thanks for the positive vibes amazing work on the T Bird
Ah memories. I bought my first of 12 T-birds back in 1974. I was a 1964. It did not run. (only 10 years old!) Towed it home and figured out the timing chain/gear set was not put in correctly by the previous owner. Not sure why he had to replace the timing chain in the first place. Straightened that out and drove it on a 4000 mile round trip! My next T-Bird was a 1966. I eventually left Ford for GM after I drove a 1964 Riviera! Man the Riviera rode and handled so much better than these T-Birds. Much less body roll and a firmer ride and better handling over all. I recently test drove a 66 T-Bird after having had many 1960s and early 1970s GMs and it was like driving a sled on jack in the box springs by comparison.
Hey Sean, great video. What you just did to your 66 I need to do to mine as well. Not that it is overheating but the rad is old and I think its due to be rebuilt, not reconditioned. I also use Matts and I cant agree with you more about his quality of work. He's the man! The last two restorations I did I had Matt install the high efficiency cores into the radiators. They are high efficiency 3 row cores that are as large as a standard 4 row. Ask him about those if you get a chance. They are expensive though, over $800 P & L. He has also reconditioned several surge tanks for me and they always come out perfect. Great work.
The way you described the temp gauge fluctuations where the needle pegs but the engine is not overheating, that is a classic symptom of a bad CVR (constant voltage regulator). However, when they do go bad, they will affect 3 gauges, oil, temp and fuel. If the other gauges are acting normal and only the temp gauge pegs, then its either overheating, the temp sender is bad or the wire is touching ground, or all of the above on a car that old.
I've learned from experience that the timing chains last about 50,000 miles before becoming stretched out like yours. Most people do not change them until something goes wrong because of how difficult it is to get at them. I buy the kits with the steel gear instead of the nylon gear. The timing marks on your car are on the harmonic balancer and on the pulley. Since the pulley covers the harmonic balancer, they put timing marks on it. Thats a better setup anyway because the pulley does not go bad where a harmonic balancer has rubber that disintegrates and then the outer ring which has the timing marks on it, spins around. Well that's just great if your trying to time your car.
Usually, not 100%, but usually a stuck needle and seat (one that lets fuel pass when closed) is because of debris, rust and dirt. It is very very common for these cars to send debris through the filter and into the carb. It must be from the fuel lines if you replaced the tank. I think you checked the entrance of the fuel line at the tank but you could have rust somewhere else in the fuel lines. The fuel filters do not filter debris like they should, they allow fine rust particles to pass. Check the float bowl and see. Also check the floats in the bowls and see if there is fuel in them. If so, they will try to sink to the bottom of the bowl and open the needle and seat. I have found that the brass floats can leak fuel in them and work one day and not another. I guess it depends on temperature and other factors.
Nice video. Thanks for taking the time to make that. Good luck, Nick
Thanks Nick, it just seemed like the most opportune time. I would hate to be stuck in the middle of nowhere and the fiber cam gear break!
As for Matt's, they do great work. I'll ask him about the HE cores when I speak to him next.
I'm really enjoying your T-bird series. My dad has a 66 Q-code convertible that has been sitting for the last 30 years. Hes retired now, and it is getting closer and closer to the top of the project list. I'm looking forward to getting through the rest of these videos! I hope to do a rt-66 pilgrimage myself one day.
Thank you very much. It was a joy to bring this classic back to life! Now my dad is enjoying it in TN! You’ve got a rare car there, take good care of it!
Sean
I am a 80year with a 30 stored cony. THERE DEATH TRAPS .leave it rest nmy advice
I have been in the car fix in’ biz for almost 50 years. There are certainly some great old cars but until about 30 to 35 years ago loads of cars ran hot in summer. Buick’s were often called “Hot boxes” by my co-workers as they were about the worst offenders. Plugged radiators are almost non-existent now. Radiators being “Rodded out” and cracks repaired was almost a given at 75000 miles for cars through the mid 70s.
New subscriber....very cool to have a TH-camr just down the road (Monument here). So far, you work on the type of things I like, so I'm looking forward to much more content.
Thanks! We loved living in COS and have recently moved to South Carolina. Let me know the kinds of things you’d like to see more of in the future!
I had a problem with Gage reading . I fixed it with a new sending unit. Thanks for sharing.
I did replace the sending unit, but it’s still acting up. Need to play with it some more. Thanks for watching!
Great video makes me want to change my timing chain on my 70 Tbird just for fun lol
Thanks! It was eye opening for sure!
Sean, Very nice video of some very important repairs. It is getting almost impossible to find any radiator repair facilities any more. You are lucky to have a great one that is by you.
Agreed, and Matt’s is top-notch
Great video my friend! Every step you took in diagnosing and doing preventive measures for solving your overheating symptoms were spot on! As a classic ford restorer myself I can't tell you how many times I have dealt with the same symptoms you were. Although every component you replaced in actuality needed replaced anyway if I were a betting man I would say your true culprit all along was your coolant temp sender. I have had those go wonky on many an fe motor and get the same symptoms you were experiencing. Fyi.....good on you for taking the time to explain about that bottom bolt going through a water jacket. You would be surprised how often people miss that.
During this current time we are all going through and since the car show season is a wash I am taking the time to redo some stuff on my 56 thunderbird. I have been toying around with the idea of upgrading the brakes, cooling system, and a/c???? My back and forth issue is taking away from its originality. Hope you and your family are staying safe and doing well.
Hi Rick! Thanks again for your encouragement ! It's always hard to not be a parts changer, and actually diagnose the problems on these older cars.
We're staying safe, hope you and your family are well.
Ahh, so good to see it running well!
Me too!
Ever try changing a fuel pump on a 1966 T-Bird on Interstate I-94 in downtown Minneapolis in February around 10 degrees F on your back with gas dripping down your coat sleeve and semis whipping by at 65 mph? It is SO HARD getting the bolts to start without cross threading with the cam pushing down on the pump arm when your hands are so cold you cannot feel them. True story 1975.
What a crazy story, and I can't imagine trying to do that on the side of the road.
@humbuckerpickups Well no wonder my Rams could never win in Minnesota! 😊
Gee, you mentioned noisy alternator bearings. Is that next???
You're really knowledgeable about cars, more than I am. Great for you!!
N -joy that bird.
So far, the alternator is holding on. If it decides to go south, I'll change the bearings then. otherwise, I'm gonna press my luck!
@@AutoAnatomy ehh,, okey-dokey.
Very well done video! I want to tackle the AC on my 64 next year. The pump is seized up so I will have to start there.
I was surprised how well the old system worked!
Buddy I have confidence you will solve the problem . Those old Fords could be a real pain in the butt.
Your videos are excellent 😀👍
Thank you!
How is it running, temperature-wise, since the cooling system work? My friend has a '65 T-bird (same color as your '66, which is neat), and it has the same problem. He had the engine completely rebuilt and flushed, and we swapped in a high flow electric fan, and it was still running hot whenever it sat at idle, so we installed a brand new triple core aluminum radiator last weekend, and it still pegs the gauge when there's no airflow (sitting still). If the car is moving, it stays right in the middle of the gauge. Intake temp measured with an infrared thermometer is getting up to 208°F, which feels high to me, especially since he's pretty sure it has a 165° thermostat. I'm stumped.
It runs nice and cool. Part of the problem was the constant voltage regulator to the gauges was intermittently malfunctioning, causing the gauge to read incorrectly. I put in a temporary water temp gauge and it never got over 200 even when the factory gauge was pegged.
@@AutoAnatomy interesting; I'll let him know. He wants to try adding a second cooling fan; I'll tell him to try an aftermarket temp gauge first and see if it agrees with the factory gauge. Thanks!
Another great video! Thank you for the information. I'm in the midst of replacing the timing chain set on my '66 with 109k+. Good thing too because, like yours, the chain was very slack and there were cracks all over the cam cog gears. Question for you - the cam cog dowel that engages the fuel pump eccentric was press fit on the original cog. The new cam cog, from Cloyes, did not come with a dowel so I'm having to reuse the old one. However, the dowel hole in the new cog is a fraction of an inch larger in diameter than the old dowel. It fits loose and I'm thinking will fall out under load. Did you experience this issue? If not, would you recommend a different chain set brand?
Thanks for checking out the videos, hope they're useful! As for the timing chain, there should be zero slop on the drive pin. I'm not sure if your original part is worn or if it's the wrong timing chain set, but they must be very tight fit or either the cam, pin, or gear will fail.
Cloyes makes a great product so it's unlikely they oversized the hole in the cam gear, but possible I suppose. I believe Cloyes is what I installed in our 66 bird.
Good luck, and let me know how it turns out!
Sean
Hey I'm doing something to my 65, how did you keep the crank from moving when taking the bolts down?
Thanks for the videos I’m thinking on getting a 66 Tbird and this video about the air conditioning is very nice too know so my only question is what parts did you have too replace on the air condition system too put in r134a refrigerant?
I replaced the receiver/dryer and all the o-rings. It's the original condenser and compressor
I picked up a 1959 Thunderbird with Factory air. I was wondering if you could post some pictures or diagram of the wiring for it. I have a red wire that's just hanging next my air conditioning that I do not know where it plugs in. It has a bear end with no connector. Enjoy your videos thank you for posting. I even sent for a 1959 manual and it doesn't even have a wiring diagram in the thing.
Send me an email at autoanatomy@icloud.com and I’ll see what I can do to help.
Another great video! I had a leaky power steering pump on my ‘66. Figured I’d replace the waterpump too. I came to the same conclusion as you that I may as well change the timing chain while was at it. Glad I did because, like yours, it was still the original set. Same stretched chain and cracks in the cam cog.
Wondering if you have any trouble with the cam pin? It was press-fit in old cog but fits loose in the new cog. Both the sets I ordered from Rock Auto and my local NAPA store had the same issue, both made by Coyles I believe. Neither came with a new pin but I can’t use the old one. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
Tim, I've never seen any timing chains with a loose pin. That sounds like a recipe for disaster. I wonder if the wrong chain was put into the box. Any updates on this?
I just found your channel and lucky me, I love T Birds and specially the 66. Is yours a 390 or 428?
Thank you for finding the channel! It's a 390
Sean,
Very good vid, my friend. I like tuning into your channel and that of Vintage Thunderbird Repair. Always something new to learn from both of you.
Question: What is that round thing that's connected to the carb fuel inlet line? Is it a second filter?
Regards,
John
It’s a fuel pressure regulator. Sometimes the aftermarket pumps can overpower a needle/seat.
Sean,
Thanks. I couldn't make out what it was. In the next video would you mind doing a lighted close-up and a short explanation about it? Inquiring minds want to know. 😀
Regards,
John
Sure thing!
Hi. I hope you opt for a good quality aftermarket mechanical temperature gauge instead of trying to decipher what the factory gauge is trying to tell you. I've bought a new mech. gauge for my '65 T-Bird, but haven't installed it yet. I love the old Fords, but I've come to not trust the factory temp gauges. As you know, there aren't a lot of places to mount extra gauges on the T-Bird dash, but it might be worth the effort.
Agreed. The gauge isn't that accurate but I really want to keep the factory gauges for now.
I have 2- 64 Thunder Chickens
1 is my doner body... my 390 is tore down the the timing chain and i dont know why.. thank you for this viedo to help me rebuild someone elses BS.
The 66 T-Bird is my favorite but I just saw a White 60 Convertable low milage go for £15300 (($ US 19500) Here in Yorkshire England at out local car auction, also a Mint 56 went for £22000 ($US 28600) and I wonder about US prices as there is No import duty or Tax to pay on old US cars and here in England no Road Tax and No Vehicle Test either.
Not sure about the importing to the UK, but I’m sure it’s not cheap. I’m glad people are starting to see the value of these cars, they’re truly amazing! Thanks for checking out the video!
@@AutoAnatomy It is as cheap as chips ! About $650 for my last GMC High Top Van all including UK registration and plates from Fort Lauderdale to my door in Manchester England. PROBLEM !!! The US $ was then 1.95 to 1£ . Now it is 1.29$ to 1£.
What paint color is that what brand of paint?? Can you please let me know thank you
I'm assuming it's a Ford blue but I just want to double check with you on what it actually is the name of it
just seems to need a new heat sensor on the intake.
I'll be following your channel. Hope you can do a follow up on your Texas trip. ( unless you already have) Just 1 point. When the rad was being lifted out the lower bung dribbled out rusty brown fluid. Do you know where that came from ? In future services I suggest you run a flush with a clear charge of water, " before " the rad is sent out for service. Likely that brown effluent originated in the engine block. P.S. Up here in the great white north, many vintage Ford aficionados have an aluminum rad form a place like Griffin when they run there cars to shows in the summer. Much better at transferring the heat. www.griffinrad.com/ Then they keep the original rad in shape and swap it or sell it with the car. Cheers.
Caution they jump out of park + released handbrake unattended .there's a fix if you're interested these cars are a nightmare .bought mine 1970 a fire mist conv . Ps if you turn ac. In winter it clogs the drier on the 66.
Too bad that you could not be bothered to show us the play in the new timing chain.
It was perhaps 3/8” total play (vs the 1” from the original)
Hey Sean, I’m currently doing the same work to my 66 Tbird. If you have any advice for me, comment on my videos! I need all the help and knowledge i can get
Congratulations on the bird, and make sure you're subscribed to Nick's channel at th-cam.com/channels/g6Fgxc6Tqhd9g8OsmEjT6Q.html
He's the absolute guru on these cars.