This video saved me. I’ve done dozens of brake jobs in my life, but replaced a caliper on the wife’s 4runner and COULD NOT get them to bleed. Did not know about the “on” secret with this car. Thanks so much!
My pleasure! I had the same struggle and did lots of research trying to sort it out. That’s when I realized I should make a video on it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for this, very helpful! A couple of notes from when I tried this on a 2003 4-Runner. I would highly recommend loosening the valves with a closed end wrench or socket if you don't have the specialty wrench used in the video. An open ended wrench or adjustable wrench can easily strip these if they are really tight...might even hit it with some wd-40 or pb blaster to help un-seize. Also, i found it was pretty easy to do this w/out jacking up the car or removing the wheels. The valves are fairly accessible if you don't mind laying on the garage floor. By turning the steering fully in one direction or the other it really helps accessing the front wheel valves. Maybe that is common sense but just adding for amateurs like me :) . Again thanks, saved me a lot of money and time taking to a mechanic!
Well done....very thorough.....Do you recall how much fluid you used? I saw a different video and the person used a gallon of new fluid....sounds like a lot, but I wanted to be certain I have enough fluid on hand b4 I begin. Thank you for your help. EB
The dealership had “topped off” the brake fluid on my girlfriends mothers car during an oil change she gets for free, they “top off” “all” the fluids during the free oil change program she is a part of. They failed to let us know they had done that, so when I depressed the caliper pistons doing a front brake job on her car it made a nice mess in the driveway that I had to spend 30 minutes cleaning off the car and the driveway to prevent damage. It actually blew the master cylinder reservoir cap off to the side.
@Elevationem thanks for watching and commenting! I’m glad you got it cleaned up - brake fluid and paint don’t get along very well. I remember a friend once came to me after getting her oil changed at a quick-lube type shop. The shop had completely filled her crank-case!
This helped me with my wifes 2016 toyota 4 runner please keep making 4 runner videos i do alot of my own repairs but am only fimiliar with honda and chevy , shes got first toyota we have owned ! Thanks !
Thanks for watching and for commenting! I’ve not worked on a 4G, but from the forums, it looks like the key-on process is similar. Hopefully this thread will get you going in the right direction. Please let me know what you find out: www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/196576-talk-me-through-brake-bleed-fluid-replacement-2.html
great instructions. short, sweet, to the point. especially after laying under the truck all day today, last thing i need is some dweeb showing everything but what to do. so thank you. keep up the good work
Thanks for watching and commenting! I am running through the method I found here: www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/253825-how-bleed-brakes.html Now you have me curious…next time I’ll try the front with the key on :-)
Awesome tutorial however I believe on some other videos I’ve seen, service specs advise to do front passenger than driver first then rear passenger and driver last…
Thanks for watching! There are vacuum bleeding kits out there for solo work. Many swear by them (I usually just swear at them ;-)). The assistant method for me, is the most fool proof - probably just because I’ve never gotten the hang of the vac bleeders.
Good job good video. Can also just pump the front brakes with the bleeder open until the air bubbles are put. The same way you did the back. One man can do it all. No need to keep closing the valve and pump. Just pump and hold then close when done.
Thanks for watching! I’d do a full bleed just to be safe - though I’ve seen many just bleed the corner where the system was opened. Also, would be a good idea as it would get the same ‘age’ fluid into each caliper for consistent braking.
My ABS warning lights and bells go on when it's below freezing. I can hear the brake pump trying to pressurize continously then the warning activates. When it's above freezing the pump pressurizes in a few seconds and no ABS light. What's wrong that this only happens when it's below freezing?
This is a guess, but I’d speculate the brake fluid (which is hydrophilic, meaning it absorbs water as it ages) has absorbed significant moisture through age and/or something open or loose somewhere in the brake system. When the water in the system freezes, the system wouldn’t pressurize proper. In any case, Id suggest thoroughly evaluating for safety. Good luck! Please let me know how it turns out!
the easiest way: OPEN ALL FOUR BLEEDERS and let the old fluid drain - YOU ONLY MAKE SURE that there is always brake fluid in the supply container. OF COURSE, YOU NEED TO SUCK THE OLD LIQUID FROM THE CONTAINER.
This video saved me. I’ve done dozens of brake jobs in my life, but replaced a caliper on the wife’s 4runner and COULD NOT get them to bleed. Did not know about the “on” secret with this car. Thanks so much!
My pleasure! I had the same struggle and did lots of research trying to sort it out. That’s when I realized I should make a video on it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Never knew about the "on" key situation for the rear brakes. Good Tip!
Thanks for watching! The on key saves lots of time.
if no help available, can we use the “on” key method for the front?
Best video on bleeding 4runner brakes going. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and for the kind comment!
This is best break fluid flush and air off video so far...and i must confess i ve watch a lot so far... thanxxx
Thanks for this, very helpful! A couple of notes from when I tried this on a 2003 4-Runner. I would highly recommend loosening the valves with a closed end wrench or socket if you don't have the specialty wrench used in the video. An open ended wrench or adjustable wrench can easily strip these if they are really tight...might even hit it with some wd-40 or pb blaster to help un-seize. Also, i found it was pretty easy to do this w/out jacking up the car or removing the wheels. The valves are fairly accessible if you don't mind laying on the garage floor. By turning the steering fully in one direction or the other it really helps accessing the front wheel valves. Maybe that is common sense but just adding for amateurs like me :) . Again thanks, saved me a lot of money and time taking to a mechanic!
I need to bleed the brake system on my 2003 toyota 4runner .Can you explain exactly how you did it ?
Very clever using the bottle with the cap and 2 drilled holes.
Thanks for watching, and especially for the kind comment!
Outstanding video! Well done!!
Thanks for watching and for the feedback :-)
Phenomenal! Great video my man
Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
Well done....very thorough.....Do you recall how much fluid you used? I saw a different video and the person used a gallon of new fluid....sounds like a lot, but I wanted to be certain I have enough fluid on hand b4 I begin. Thank you for your help. EB
I think we pushed about a quart and a half - enough to see that new fluid was coming through at each wheel.
These are great and thorough videos. Could you consider doing steering fluid flush/replacement?
Thanks for the kind words! Excellent suggestion! Probably about time to service the steering on this 4Runner!
If the brakes are worn, only refill to the current level to avoid needing to bleed/suck extra fluid later.
The dealership had “topped off” the brake fluid on my girlfriends mothers car during an oil change she gets for free, they “top off” “all” the fluids during the free oil change program she is a part of. They failed to let us know they had done that, so when I depressed the caliper pistons doing a front brake job on her car it made a nice mess in the driveway that I had to spend 30 minutes cleaning off the car and the driveway to prevent damage. It actually blew the master cylinder reservoir cap off to the side.
@Elevationem thanks for watching and commenting! I’m glad you got it cleaned up - brake fluid and paint don’t get along very well. I remember a friend once came to me after getting her oil changed at a quick-lube type shop. The shop had completely filled her crank-case!
This helped me with my wifes 2016 toyota 4 runner please keep making 4 runner videos i do alot of my own repairs but am only fimiliar with honda and chevy , shes got first toyota we have owned ! Thanks !
Thanks for watching and the kind words! LOL, my son’s van has me trying to learn Hondas. We’ll definitely be wrenching again soon on the 4Runner.
Does the cap needs to be on the reservoir when bleeding the brakes? I saw you put it back on after you add fluid.
Thanks for the detail video. Any difference in doing a 4th gen v6 4x4 4runner
Thanks for watching and for commenting! I’ve not worked on a 4G, but from the forums, it looks like the key-on process is similar. Hopefully this thread will get you going in the right direction. Please let me know what you find out: www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/196576-talk-me-through-brake-bleed-fluid-replacement-2.html
great instructions. short, sweet, to the point. especially after laying under the truck all day today, last thing i need is some dweeb showing everything but what to do. so thank you. keep up the good work
Does the abs pump needs to be ON for the front calipers bleeding procedure? Some people saying yes some others no
We only had it on for the rear, but this has me curious to try it on for the front next time! Let me know what you end up doing and how it works!
Why are you not using the abs pump for the front wheels? Thanks for another informative video!
Thanks for watching and commenting! I am running through the method I found here: www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/253825-how-bleed-brakes.html
Now you have me curious…next time I’ll try the front with the key on :-)
@@fixityfix I used the abs pump for front. Worked very well.
Nice! Thanks for sharing. I’ll definitely have to do that next time!
Awesome tutorial however I believe on some other videos I’ve seen, service specs advise to do front passenger than driver first then rear passenger and driver last…
Thanks for watching and for the helpful comment! I’ll have to try that order next time I service the 4Runner.
Do you have hold the brake down with something when you tighten up the bleeder nut
I’ve read that Toyota says the front is supposed to be bled first FP,FD,RP,RD can you confirm. Does it matter?
Follow Toyota’s since the orientation depends on where the ABS unit is located.
Thanks, great tutorial, you make it look easy to do it. what if you don't have an assistant???
Thanks for watching! There are vacuum bleeding kits out there for solo work. Many swear by them (I usually just swear at them ;-)). The assistant method for me, is the most fool proof - probably just because I’ve never gotten the hang of the vac bleeders.
Absolutely the best instruction
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Would this work for 2012 trd 4x4 Tacoma? it has the same brake booster but has Drumms in the rear .
Good job good video. Can also just pump the front brakes with the bleeder open until the air bubbles are put. The same way you did the back. One man can do it all. No need to keep closing the valve and pump. Just pump and hold then close when done.
Thanks for watching and for the helpful tip! I’ll give that a shot next time!
What are you saying
How is one man supposed to keep the brake pedal depressed while closing the bleeder valve?
@@trijicog how zo
@@trijicog if using the bottle no need to close and pump just pump until clean
Really helped thanks
Glad it helped
If I replaced the brake hose from Brake to caliper, do I need to bleed every wheel or just the wheel I was working on?
Thanks for watching! I’d do a full bleed just to be safe - though I’ve seen many just bleed the corner where the system was opened. Also, would be a good idea as it would get the same ‘age’ fluid into each caliper for consistent braking.
Thank you!
My ABS warning lights and bells go on when it's below freezing. I can hear the brake pump trying to pressurize continously then the warning activates. When it's above freezing the pump pressurizes in a few seconds and no ABS light. What's wrong that this only happens when it's below freezing?
This is a guess, but I’d speculate the brake fluid (which is hydrophilic, meaning it absorbs water as it ages) has absorbed significant moisture through age and/or something open or loose somewhere in the brake system. When the water in the system freezes, the system wouldn’t pressurize proper. In any case, Id suggest thoroughly evaluating for safety. Good luck! Please let me know how it turns out!
@@fixityfix spot on!
3/16 or 3/8 ID lines?
Why would you put the car on the on position .
To activate the electronic ABS pump. Weird Toyota procedure for sure!
Nice
the easiest way: OPEN ALL FOUR BLEEDERS and let the old fluid drain - YOU ONLY MAKE SURE that there is always brake fluid in the supply container. OF COURSE, YOU NEED TO SUCK THE OLD LIQUID FROM THE CONTAINER.
I did this but now my pump keeps running like ever min it runs without me touching the brakes