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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 เม.ย. 2021
- It's ALIVE! This is an explanation of how I use an affordable Flysky R/C system to control my differential drive lawn mower. This video shows the setup and test of the radio control system. It also gives a brief explanation of how it works. More to come. Stay tuned. Subscribe.
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I finally got all my parts together to make one. I want to thank you for being so detailed.
Thank you for the feedback. If you have any issues with your build don't hesitate to ask. Sometimes I wonder if I'm being too detailed.... Lol. Thanks for watching.
wow,Awesome build video. have collected all the parts for the lawnmower build. love your design and layout.
Thank you. They are fun to build. So many different directions you can go. Hopefully this design will be a significant improvement from the previous version. Enjoy your build. Thanks for commenting. Your interest propels me forward.
Best explanation I've came across for this. Much appreciated
Thank you for watching and commenting. I'm happy to hear it helped.
Great video looks like the sabertooth, your handwriting is outstanding and appreciate your translation regarding the sabertooth dip switch settings. Awesome video
Thank you for commenting and showing interest. I'm glad the video helped. Please check the channel for more related content. Theres some other stuff you may or may not be interested in too. Thanks for the compliment and please check back soon. Enjoy your build.
How do you create a dead zone at the center of the stick? Mine seems to creep a little at times. I am using the FS I6. Is the goal autonomous?
great job
Thanks for watching... I will be back at it again soon.
Wanted to share what Sabertooth recommends for the breaker placement & type.
We prefer that you fuse the motors rather than the battery leads, or if for safety reasons you need to fuse the battery that you do it at a much higher current than the motors. The reason is this:
Because Sabertooth is a regenerative driver, it relies on having a battery to put regenerated energy back into when you command a stop (and at other times). If you draw enough power to blow a battery fuse, all of a sudden the Sabertooth has nowhere to put the energy. It will see the fault, though, and try to stop the motor. It doesn't, however, have anywhere to put the energy (the mechanical energy of the vehicle and the electrical energy carried in the windings and the caps). So blowing a battery fuse will sometimes kill the driver -- which we can usually repair at no charge, but it's still annoying for all parties.
The better way to do it is to fuse the motor leads. If a motor fuse blows, the motor will freewheel, the Sabertooth will sit there contentedly, and the only thing you will have to replace is the fuse. A very large fuse (100 amps plus for a 2x25) on the battery lead will protect the wiring in the event of a battery lead short or motor driver failure.
Love it. Thank you for sharing. I like the idea of fusing the motors and how they can repair it but recommend fusing just to be safe. I never had a problem with the way this was set up in the past but it is worth knowing. Thanks again for commenting.
I am making something close to this, i would recommend using ardupilot for autonomous navigation and obstacle avoidance later on, the newer pixhawks are a bit expensive but for our purpose i believe APM 2.8 is enough, it cannot update to latest version but i think the version it supports has enough features. (Pixhawk and APM are flight controllers). Also what sabertooth are you using?
I enjoy the challenge of striping the lawn. Maybe go autonomous next year.... The sabertooth 2x32 is amazing. Thanks for the suggestions and watching. Enjoy your build.
Is this controller not ppm signal?
Thanks a bunch for your videos, they’ve helped me get my mower on the ground. What would you say the issue is when I power my transmitter on, the motors begin driving forward-without Moving any joysticks???
Your issue may have something to do with " Automatic calibration, the voltage levels are re-learned every time the motor driver is powered up.
This should only be used with input signals that self-center, such as joysticks. When powered up, after a delay (the Calibration Delay setting) the Sabertooth will take whatever voltage level is presented at the
input and use that as its zero speed setting. It will then constantly look for the largest and smallest
voltage that it has ever seen, and use these values as full speed forward and reverse. Automatic
calibration is very helpful for signals such as low-cost joysticks that have significant variability in their
center and end values. The downside to using Automatic calibration is that if the joystick is not in its
center position when the Sabertooth is powered up, or after it loses power for any reason, control will
be incorrect.
Joystick Calibration
With Joystick calibration, only the stopped position is re-learned each time the Sabertooth powers up.
You can manually change the Input Min and Input Max values. This can prevent slow speed creeping if
the joystick does not return exactly to center due to mechanical hysteresis or sticking. Higher quality
joysticks will often have a defined output voltage range, usually 0V to 5V, so automatic calibration of the
endpoints is unnecessary."
This was directly copied out of the sabertooth 2x32 manual. I hope it helps.
Thank you for watching and I'm glad my videos help.
@@MTRFAB that definitely helped. Dip switch adjustment corrected the issue. One more question though, what did you do to avoid the motors from overloading the Sabertooth and possibly leading to danger?
The sabertooth is the BOSS! Lol. I've never set any current limiting. It just works for my application. I never had any indications of loading issues. I just think even worst case... These motors peak currents are still within the boundaries of the motor controller. I have seen guys running four motors off the driver at once. I'm not saying that's good or would last long.... Just that I have seen it.
@@MTRFAB I should have also said I’m powering both with small 12v automotive batteries. Had a bit of a scare today that’s why I ask. I know you’re using the Lipo setup but I guess I just have to be careful for those types of scenarios where a motor can get overloaded.
Thanks for your video. My gimbal needs to go let’s say at 2oclock to run both motors straight. If I go straight up it only runs one motor and horizontal runs the other. Any suggestions?
Maybe check the trim on the transmitter ??? Make sure they are centered. Or possible that the programmed end points are off?
Or possible you have the wrong channel programming. Look at your stick mode/ channel map. Double check you have them programmed to the right sticks.
Thank you for watching. Good luck with your build.
Also please review the answer I supplied Julian in the comments on this video.... It also could be a possibility.
so I am running this same setup in independent mode so I can use both sticks on the controller. I am using 4 permobile m300 motors and it wont climb a hill. Not sure if its in the settings on the controller but Iam using 2 12 volt batteries in series to make 24 volt and its fast and strong on flat ground but up a hill it will go halfway and just not climb anymore. No tire spin just seems like it ran out of power. I am using a 24 volt fan on the motor driver cause of our 100 degree heat here
Do you have a current limit set in the controller? Are you using the Describe software to set up?
@@MTRFAB thanks for the reply. Not sure how to set the current limit? I used it directly out the box.
@@MTRFAB do you mean throttle curve? its H is 100% factory settings
@@freemurray Current Limit
This setting sets the maximum current for the motor output. If the system tries to draw more current
than the setting, the output duty cycle will be reduced. For Sabertooth 2x32, each motor output can be
limited individually in a range between 0A and 64A. This is a soft current limit, and will slow acceleration
but allow motor motion to continue. There is also a fixed hard current limit above approximately 70
amps which protects the Sabertooth from a shorted motor.
@@freemurray directly out the box it should be able to do full current...64 amps.... To 70 max. You may be drawing more amps with the 4 motors than the saber can handle. I only run 2 motors. But uphill with a load.... Current can definitely climb.
I can't find the sabertooth 2x25 motor controller can you please send me a link. I want to buy it. I like your video. Very explanation on everything. Love it. Great job 👍
Thank you for the nice comments. Unfortunately, the sabertooth motor drivers are super hard to find right now. There are 12 to 20 week lead times on the dimension engineering website. That's where I've purchased mine in the past. Dimensionengineering.com . Good luck tracking one down. They really are great motor drivers. Thanks for commenting. Good luck with your build.
@@MTRFAB well I just found a replacement or something similar to the one you have it has more amps , but I just gonna give it a try to see what they can do , it calls Roboclaw 2x45A Motor Controller (Screw Terminal Version) is close what you have. . Thanks for the inspiration to build a great project. I'll continue watching your videos.
@@sammytigueron9351 Thanks for all your support. It's almost all back together and more videos to come. I'll check out the roboclaw too. Enjoy your build. They really are fun to make.
The 2x32 sabertooth is what I'm using it peaks at 59A, seems good for hills. Same driving controls through s1 & s2. I only used the power cables (red) on the s1/s2 to channel 1/2 on the reciever. I understand why all 6 wires where used, but it did confuse me for a sec.
In your test, left and right movement is reversed.
You are correct. I had to invert those channels in the remote to get them headed in the right direction... Just didn't video it. Nice catch. Thank you for watching.