Crimping shears!!!! Perfect . I've spent decades doing admittedly nice straight cuts with straight edges, blades, tape, hoping for the best and getting away with it. NEVER thought of these serrated shears. See Mark...... Ya put a know all like me in his place again 😂 Your pva glue with the iron trick took me way back to doing this on foam core wings. It worked great but high risk of damaging the foam. Never even considered using this method on wood to wood. Nearly finished a scratch built 96" span rearwin speedster for a 30cc petrol motor (remember when the biggest donk in them was an OS90FSR? I still have mine from the 80s) and after about 500 bits of wood the thing is almost ready for covering. So will give these shears a go to make life a lot easier and it'll still be really pretty on the overlaps. Oh yeah . I do all bottoms first then tops last. Just an overlap preference. The mod podge stuff you use. Looked it up cos have never seen it in Australia (doesn't mean it's not sold here ) and it seems to be a thinned down pva. Do you know if that's the case Mark? Best of good fortune for the new year. Hope you and your family had a great Christmas ❤ A final aside I've become addicted to blue polystyrene insulating foam. Unlike white foam it has no cells that are so annoying Just like old blue polyurethane foam. Use it instead of wood blocks. Lots of nose area infills between the millions of stringers in the rearwin. And plugs for cowl moulds. Even made a beautiful set of 70 inch wings for one of those marchetti sf 260s. The originals are factory lasered lightweight wood with open rib bays I smashed it up a bit and with those things a bump usually leads to binning the wings.So made foam cores with retracts. Was going to hot wire them .....have all the gear but the super vicious triple tapers scared me off so I made a huge long sanding block 40+80 grit and it worked amazingly. Left the templates epoxied to the cores. Works a treat. All the foam including the rearwin infills are fiberglassed Think it's 120g/m. cloth. Whatever I used on lots of motorbike bodywork projects. The super light modeling stuff is only used for finishing not for strength in my case.way too light. Laminating epoxy of course cos poly eats styrene foam. Unless you soak it all in pva but that's more weight. Guaranteed massive strength, stiffness, superb finish when soaked up with paper towel and no need for vacuuming at all and ready for 2k high build primer...... pretty light wings (well not heavy) and so simple to make and repair if the worst happens. . You can also use thinner laminating epoxy for gluing in all braces tubes and so on. Add talc to thicken if necessary. Same stuff as glue just far less viscous. About half hour working time too. Just sharing my new excitement for foam and fiberglass. Much quicker than wood and so much more damage resistant. Heaps cheaper too and you can form ANY shape easily. Ok thank you Mark take care 😊
I picked up the crimping shears at a very reasonable price from an online supply. The blue foam has so many uses (other than the underfloor insulation it is intended for). I have used it extensively in model railway projects carving out stone walling to give very realistic effects.
I have found a couple coats along the edge to cut results in a cleaner easier cut. Really appreciate all your videos. Wishing you and your family a happy new year
Hello Mark Croucher! I have a question for you: How many degrees does the side pull have to be on a Piper J-3 Cub with a 1 meter wingspan? According to the manufacturer, the engine pitch should be 4°. Greetings from Lübeck Germany
First of all, thank you for your reply! Oh and I think there is a misunderstanding! I meant the angle setting of the motor (side pull). And yes, I am talking about an electric drive that has enough thrust! The motor pitch is about 4°. Greetings from Lübeck
Such fun ! I love the ruler trick ! and looking forward to Her next stage ! All the best for another year of mayhem ! ❤😉🙃😎 NZ
Cheers all the best for 2025
Crimping shears!!!! Perfect . I've spent decades doing admittedly nice straight cuts with straight edges, blades, tape, hoping for the best and getting away with it.
NEVER thought of these serrated shears.
See Mark...... Ya put a know all like me in his place again 😂
Your pva glue with the iron trick took me way back to doing this on foam core wings. It worked great but high risk of damaging the foam. Never even considered using this method on wood to wood.
Nearly finished a scratch built 96" span rearwin speedster for a 30cc petrol motor (remember when the biggest donk in them was an OS90FSR? I still have mine from the 80s) and after about 500 bits of wood the thing is almost ready for covering. So will give these shears a go to make life a lot easier and it'll still be really pretty on the overlaps.
Oh yeah . I do all bottoms first then tops last. Just an overlap preference.
The mod podge stuff you use. Looked it up cos have never seen it in Australia (doesn't mean it's not sold here ) and it seems to be a thinned down pva. Do you know if that's the case Mark?
Best of good fortune for the new year. Hope you and your family had a great Christmas ❤
A final aside
I've become addicted to blue polystyrene insulating foam. Unlike white foam it has no cells that are so annoying
Just like old blue polyurethane foam.
Use it instead of wood blocks. Lots of nose area infills between the millions of stringers in the rearwin.
And plugs for cowl moulds.
Even made a beautiful set of 70 inch wings for one of those marchetti sf 260s. The originals are factory lasered lightweight wood with open rib bays
I smashed it up a bit and with those things a bump usually leads to binning the wings.So made foam cores with retracts.
Was going to hot wire them .....have all the gear but the super vicious triple tapers scared me off so I made a huge long sanding block 40+80 grit and it worked amazingly. Left the templates epoxied to the cores. Works a treat.
All the foam including the rearwin infills are fiberglassed
Think it's 120g/m. cloth. Whatever I used on lots of motorbike bodywork projects. The super light modeling stuff is only used for finishing not for strength in my case.way too light.
Laminating epoxy of course cos poly eats styrene foam. Unless you soak it all in pva but that's more weight.
Guaranteed massive strength, stiffness, superb finish when soaked up with paper towel and no need for vacuuming at all and ready for 2k high build primer...... pretty light wings (well not heavy) and so simple to make and repair if the worst happens. .
You can also use thinner laminating epoxy for gluing in all braces tubes and so on. Add talc to thicken if necessary. Same stuff as glue just far less viscous. About half hour working time too.
Just sharing my new excitement for foam and fiberglass. Much quicker than wood and so much more damage resistant. Heaps cheaper too and you can form ANY shape easily.
Ok thank you Mark take care 😊
I picked up the crimping shears at a very reasonable price from an online supply.
The blue foam has so many uses (other than the underfloor insulation it is intended for). I have used it extensively in model railway projects carving out stone walling to give very realistic effects.
I have found a couple coats along the edge to cut results in a cleaner easier cut. Really appreciate all your videos. Wishing you and your family a happy new year
Thank you! You too!
Happy New Year Mark!!!!! To You and Yours Enjoy. Ive Like Watching you Work!!!!
Happy New Year,Thanks so much
Happy New Year Mark! Enjoy watching your videos, 2025 will be a great building and flying year. Best wishes from Tom in Sweden 😃
Happy new year!
Happy New Year! Keep em coming ! Jim in California.
Happy new year! 👍
Mark she's looking great in her new Dressing. Jeff in LA USA
Cheers Jeff all the best for 2025
🎉🎉❤
Happy New Year!
Same to you!
Sorry, meant to say “a couple coats of dope”.
Hello Mark Croucher!
I have a question for you: How many degrees does the side pull have to be on a Piper J-3 Cub with a 1 meter wingspan? According to the manufacturer, the engine pitch should be 4°. Greetings from Lübeck Germany
Assume you are talking about electric,
That sounds about right you would be surprised at the amount of right thrust required.
First of all, thank you for your reply! Oh and I think there is a misunderstanding! I meant the angle setting of the motor (side pull). And yes, I am talking about an electric drive that has enough thrust! The motor pitch is about 4°. Greetings from Lübeck
@@Chef-Pilot lots of variables to consider but I'd start with 3° right side thrust
Hello Mark Croucher! Thanks for your advice. I'll start with the setting! Greetings from Lübeck