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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- After my first month of owning and riding a recumbent bike I give my thoughts and observations here. Thanks for watching!
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Can't believe I failed to mention the most important point: COMFORT!!! Yes, the recumbent bike is much more comfortable to ride than an upright. No seat pain. No numbness in the hands. Neck and back are never under stress. It's just a comfortable ride all around. I should have made that point in the video.
Another trick to learn on a recumbent bike is to learn to lean into turns as you turn the steering...it helps for tighter turns
very well made video. Thoughtful and informative. Thank you very much for your work
I like how you just describe this without the usual sales talk most videos have. Thank you for taking the time for the honest talk.
Thanks! It's probably because I'm not a salesman.
You are most straightforward and honest reviewer I have seen so far. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Considering a recumbent bike, this video was super informative. Thank you!
Exactly what I wanted to know, and it is the most honest and precise feedback. Thanks, and great work 👍
Thanks! Glad to be of help. And thank you for watching.
Hey, just wanted to say great video. Wonderful narration and timely illustrations/examples, no fluff. Impressed with you for never falling off! I fell off twice in my first few days of riding.
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your insight!
Thanks for making these videos! I recently purchased a used Six and have been going through the same steps as you. It’s like retraining your brain to balance and ride a bike.
Yep, it's definitely a little different. But so much fun!
Thanks for for sharing your experience and welcome to the community of recumbent cyclists. You'll find that your bike handling skills will get better with more seat time. The handling characteristics depends upon the geometry of your specific bike and your steering setup. Remember, you can experiment with your handlebar position so that it feels more natural. You don't have to accept the factory setup. This will make a big difference in handling and how the bike feels.
Cool video. I've been thinking about getting one of those myself. Thanks for the info!
You will love it!
That was very helpful, thanks ✌
Thanks! The tip about handlebar sensitivity hit home especially 👍Noted!!
Extremely helpful video!
Thanks! Happy cycling!
Very informative..hopefully you are reaching prospective riders!
I hope so. Perhaps you are one of them? 😁
Yes, excellent observations👍😎.
Thanks! Much appreciated.
I am looking at buying one. Thanks for your info.
Very helpful info! I have a number of 'bents (Ryan Vanguard/Longbikes Slipstream among many others) and the sensitivity of the steering (mine are underseat steering) reminds me of the controls of an airplane where often a light touch is much better than being "ham fisted".
I also use a product (Power Grips toe straps) that might be something for you to consider because for these you insert your toe portion of the shoe into the strap AT AN ANGLE with your heels facing away from the bike and then you move your feet into a front-back position (normal riding position) which tightens the strap. But this would make it easy for you to splay your feet outward without risking your foot falling off of the pedal.
Thank You, little points, but important points
Pedaling shoe rub: I had the same problem with my SWB (short wheelbase) Bacchetta Giro 20 and even my LWB Gold Rush Replica. My solution to this also worked for riding slowly: I only pedal about 1/3 turn with my feet in the safe position, then ratchet backwards and push again. Repeating the small pushes lets you keep "power on" during the slow, sharp turns or even riding slowly in a straight line.
My current bike, a LWB Bacchetta Bella, doesn't have the pedal interference, but it's more awkward to transport. However, it's also more comfortable than a SWB bike. More stable at speed, too.
Hope you still have your zero fall-off record going. That brings to mind another advantage of recumbents: less distance to fall to the ground! Usually, I can just put a hand down to steady myself, rather than doing a "Laugh-In" type of stop/fall.
All good advice for the beginning recumbent rider. That said I think that as you gain experience these "problems" will resolve themselves. Years ago I entered the recumbent world riding a short wheel base RANS Rocket and I will never forget my first start from a dead stop! Within a few weeks I could make a flawless start in my sleep. One suggestion I would make is that you buy yourself a pair of Power Grip pedal straps. These provide all the advantages of clipless pedals with none of the disadvantages and they do it at a fraction of the price! Riding a recumbent without some means of securing your feet to,the pedals is, let us say, not a great idea. Given the fact that you are in a nearly prone position if one of your feet should slip off the pedal (particularly when that foot is forward of the bottom bracket) and contact the ground while traveling at speed you can be severely injured if not outright catapulted into the air.
I concur. It's called "leg suck" and can really mess you up.
Oh nice to see someone with the ordinary steering doing an AZUB Max review. We already got the finnish youtuber Saukki riding with the "superman" handlebars that is a different above steering where the handlebars are in front of your knees.
You inspire me to maybe do a video about my own thoughts on the AZUB Max one day. I have been using an AZUB Max with under seat steering for over ten years. I recently built a fresh one from a frame kit since the old frame was just getting too worn in many ways.
But let me give you some advice about the future, it took me 2-3 years to fully master all riding styles with a recumbent, for example the balance and sharp turns, you can actually rise your body from the seat and switch to a ordinary bike type of balance using your body leaning sideways. It's worth practicing since it can come in handy in narrow situations.
Thanks for the the advice. Saukki is cool!
Just started the journey, my take always.
Starting, the tricky bit. Helps if you turn the wheel slightly towards the foot you are first pedalling on. Ie, push on right pedal makes bike go a bit to left. So counteract with slight right turn.
There is a tendency to brace your shoulders and arms when thing start to go astray, worse thing you can do, try to stay relaxed. In fact best to press shoulders into the seat, sort of throw your head back.
Hold bars very lightly.
Easier if the boom is set a bit shorter to start with.
Starting with the rear brake very slightly dragging gives you something to push against when starting.
If you have low down close in panniers, you may find it easier with these loaded, it drops the c of g.
Lean your head into the turn
Finally, for first runs, wear thick gloves and old pants!
Great video. Two points to mention. Firstly, many 'bents have a smaller front wheel specifically to avoid shoe rubbing and improve agility. On some normal bikes I have occasionally had a front mudguard catching my toes when I turn and pedal. Secondly, the slow speed agility will improve greatly with practice. You will soon be able to turn a tight circle at really slow speed. Just remember to 'drag' the rear brake slightly at slow speeds to provide pedalling resistance. The same applies to normal bikes too. 😉
Thanks!
Answering your question at 4:30, we can unclip the inner foot, take it away from the pedal and keep pedalling only with the outer foot. We can get the inner foot close to the ground, which will help with equilibrium along the corner.
Good to know. Thanks for your input!
Thanks for posting your vid. I am also new to ‘bent riding and dealing with all the same issues except mine is an old second hand bike. For slow speed stability I go for a granny gear and keep a dab of brake on so I have something to pedal against. Seems to firm everything up. I cannot track stand it at the lights but with planning I can trickle up to the lights and catch them as they turn green. Also switched to SPD pedals and shoes. Made a big difference once I worked out how & when to get your feet out. Yes I toppled over a couple of times so best to practice somewhere quiet and wear gloves/ old clothes.
Keep safe & ride on.
Thanks for your advice. I haven't gone clipless... yet. Ride on!
@@maxrider5264once you get clipless pedals get the bike close to a wall or something you can hold onto and practice over and over getting in and out of the pedals until it becomes automatic before actually riding. Helped me anyway.
To turn with feet fastened to peddles it is easy to point the toes and still peddle. This might stop peddle rub.
Thank you for the tip. I still haven't graduated to clipless... yet.
Nice videos, thank you. I actually live 20 mins from Azub in CZ and am considering the purchase a Max 26 or 700. I tried a friends trike and fell in love with the ride position. Looks like you have dropped some weight in the month of ownership as well 👍
Thanks for your comment. I thought about the 700 also, but at my age I think the 26 is fast enough for me! Plus I was looking more for comfort than speed. Must be nice to be so close to the factory.
@@maxrider5264 Well the area is famous for several things, CZ pistols/rifles, fantastic beer and the lovely trikes. Some wonderful cycle paths along the river Moravia. At 6ft 4 with a weirdly long torso and short legs I've always struggled with fit and neck wrist pain on my normal bikes, so here's hoping for the Max!
Thanks from minute details.
I've been riding recumbents since 1986. My current bike is a Challenge Furai. It has smaller wheels which makes getting on/off easier than your Azub I think. Hold brakes while getting on/off is good advice.
For me the main plus points are comfort, efficiency and safety.
Depending on your speed you need 15% to 20% less energy when riding horizontal. Recumbents tend to be heavier, so uphill I am slower than most bikes, overtaking just about any bike on the horizontal and downhill ride.
Recumbents tend to be not as agile as upright bikes. Like the comment mentions below, after a couple of weeks you get used to it and I can slow down to a snail speed when getting to a junction and waiting for a traffic light.
Because you back is fixed in a seat, you only need one hand on the handlebars, even when going up a steep bank. Try that on a mountain bike!
As to the point of safery; I've come off a few times (ice/mud) but you fall from a relatively low height. I've hurt my hand recently. However, falling off twice from my mountain bike on ice, resulted in painful hip on one occasion and a painful shoulder on another. When you hit something frontal (like a car pulling out and saying "oh I didn't see you because you are so low" ... grunt ... means you feet are in front of you as a shock absorber. I feel much saver at high speed on a recumbent. However, in a busy city I would prefer an upright as you can generally see over the top of cars.
I hope this adds to your video.
Thanks. It's always nice to hear from more experienced riders.
I am currently a owner of 2 recumbents (swb and lwb). The LWB is about the same wheel base length as a small sedan so taking turns with it are very difficult. The SWB is on a high wheel dual 26” wheels so tight turns may require I lift my inside heel up to avoid wheel rub.
Both recumbents are very heavy (19kg) unloaded so when touring, added pack weight can push total weight to 50+kg, very hard uphill!
Yes they reduce tension on arms, hands, back but one can suffer “recumbent” butt , a numbness from sitting so long!
I am definitely slower on my “bents” than an upright even with a fairing installed! That’s because of their weight.
Yeah, they're not for everyone. There are definitely advantages and disadvantages. Thanks for sharing!
Welcome to ‘bents. Riding techniques such as slow speeds will come with experience. I have both a trike and bike bents and like them both. Riding a bike with a light touch will also come with time. I have SPD pedals with clips on one side. That way I can ride unclipped while riding slow or with flat shoes. Riding with clips will help extend the pedal stroke for more power and smoothness. In stop and go situations pedaling unclipped is easier. Bikes are better for speed and storage. Trikes are better for comfort and touring. Just because trikes are popular, there’s no shame in riding bikes
Great video, many thanks. I'm impressed with your zero-fall record: I fell off my two-wheeled recumbent three times in the first couple of weeks!
Your mention of the effect of wiggling the handlebars reminds me of the old Tommy Cooper joke:
Tommy: Doctor, it hurts when I do this (raises arm).
Doctor: Well don't do it then!
The thing I still haven't mastered (or really remotely got to grips with) is pulling away going up hill, I just can't do it. If you or anyone has any tips on this, I'd love to hear them.
Thanks for the comment. There are no hills to speak of around here, so I really can't help with that except to continue the joke: "Go the other way"... :)
@@maxrider5264 I live up an extremely steep hill Probably as steep as you will ever get in most cities. Im not going to kid you. It's not easy, especially if you haven't got your fitness and leg muscles in good shape. Lucky its not that busy where I live so I used to turn into the middle of the road so im tracking the hill parallel momentarily to get the speed up then aim the bike back up hill when i have the speed and pedal momentum at full speed or if i stuff up the start i just do a u turn and go down the hill a few meters then turn back u with momentum and speed. making sure youre always in the right gear that will take you to the top of that portion of the hill is important too because generally you dont want to be changing gears whilst still pedaling hard unless you know there is a flat spot where you can just of give it a moment of forward freewheeling momentum for the gears to change.
After a while your legs build up and its a bit easier but never easy.
You just have to make sure the pedal is in the optimum position for taking off, be in the right gear, give it a huge shove and get that second foot up on the pedals real fast so you lose the minimum of momentum.
Other than that, fit one of those small electric motor propulsion systems that drop down onto the tyre and have a smallish battery so you have hill assistance when needed but not carrying a ton of unwanted weight with you when you dont need or want it.
The more upright your back seat is set the easier it is to go uphill too i find, but again, I liked it reclined to the max so I couldnt have made it any harder for myself other than towing a trailer..
good luck.
1st 3 seconds were the same as my experience. LOL I had to get on the top of my driveway to get going and it's a short driveway with a curb at the end. LOL
I believe the "agility" issue is more a matter of practice and developing confidence rather than bike design. I have both a traditional road bike that I've ridden 3 years and a RANS Vivo recumbent that I've ridden for 18 years. IMO the RANS is every bit the equal of the road bike in slow speed handling and today I can turn on it every bit as tightly and slowly as I can on the road bike. But I couldn't do that when I only had the RANS for a month!
Very late to the party here, but hopefully by now you have switched over to clip-in pedals of some kind, and specifically mountain-bike-style shoes/cleats. Absolutely a must in my opinion after 10+ years of recumbent riding. I use Shimano pedals that have clips on one side and a flat-pedal surface on the other which is especially handy for slow riding, taking off on hills or side sloping roads, and moving short distances. Still ride both Delta-frame road bikes and recumbents, but as time passes I seem to spend more time on the recumbents. And yes, COMFORT is the reason why.
@@taildown Thanks for your advice. Much appreciated.
thanks a lot from Spain
Some good advice...but some things only happen as you have a bigger wheel up front....
i think i would like the handlebars below and under the bike like I've seen on others
That is an option on this bike, but it would have cost quite a bit.
Excellent notice - very important one because it's a safety threat. I guess expanding the boom does not solve the problem? Anyone knows if this issue is the same with other similiar models such as Bacchetta, where pedals are higher? My own fave is the semi-recumbent style or recumbents with pedals lower behind the front wheel (Rans etc.) and I think the power transmission is more effective.
On these Azub's extending or shortening the boom also requires adjusting chain length. On top of that the seat position adjustment range isn't much. It's fine balance between X-seam measurement, seat and pedal position on this model. Others are different. Still, I'm happy with the MAX! Thanks for your comment.
Good video mate , thank you , I have been thinking about getting either a three wheel or two wheel recumbent for a few years now ,
I no longer ride Diamond frames as my old body that's seen a lot of labouring over the years is just an exercise in pain every time on a diamond frame.
The feet rubbing on the steer wheel would not even have occurred to me, and that may have been a problem with my size 14's .
Thinking further on that , you could maybe see a case where a smaller front wheel might work to help that problem?
I don't know how it would effect the handling of the bike though.
I still wouldn't mind having a go at a two wheel recumbent, but the more i think about it , the more I'm leaning to a three wheeler for my case.
All the best with your riding.
I was really torn between a trike and this two-wheeler for a long time. For me the two-wheeled recumbent won out primarily because, where I live the narrower, higher riding position is more practical.
@@maxrider5264 I wish I could ride a 2 wheeled recumbent, but I had neck fusion surgery and I just can't chance a fall. Plus my balance isn't what it once was. I have a couple of 3 wheeled recumbents and I enjoy riding them a lot...:) I liked your Longhorn t-shirt(I'm in deep South Texas where the Aggie-Longhorn rivalry is pretty strong...:)).
Shoe rub is also called 'heel strike'.
I am recovering from back surgery and see a recumbent bike in my future. I am considering a recumbent mainly to keep stress away form the disks not fused - As you know there are a lot of options out there. I am a former unicycle rider (36 inch uni) so my balance is pretty good. My over all goal is to do a long ride from my house in Pittsburgh to my Son's house in DC (mostly all rails to trails)
Good luck to you! Which recumbents are you looking at?
@@maxrider5264 I haven't really had a chance to really look at any yet - except on the web. My plan is when I am cleared to ride (hopefully 17 August) there is a shop @ 30 miles from my house that rents them. I want to try riding a few to test them out. I think I am leaning in a style like yours. I kind of like the sun ez ones but don't like the lower profile and the long wheelbase when it comes to carting it around- however, the price is right. Whatever I get I want to by used.
I’ve had back surgery too. I want to get one, but they’re expensive.
Thanks for the great videos. Watched them all. What are your thoughts on underseat steering? Did you consider it when you ordered your configuration? Thanks again
That's an option I didn't give too much consideration to. It just didn't appeal to me and there is an extra cost for it so I just went with the standard above seat steering. Thanks for asking.
I noticed that you looked super comfortable riding with the hamster bars. I ride an Easy Racer Gold Rush and have been considering moving to the Azub Max 700 with underseat steering. Something about having arms hanging down just seems to make sense. Please post some follow up videos on how you're doing with your Max. Like hearing about your experiences
Shoe rub: not a problem on a front wheel drive CruzBike. Definitely 'bent riding requires an iron grip on tight turns. FWD complicates matters b/c of the need to countersteer the pedal strokes, but easier to pull thru sand, grass & gravel.
I need to see one riding it on a busy street or city
Around here that might be dangerous. Though I occasionally do see upright bikes going down the busy road.
A lot of his comments apply only to that particular recumbent. A long wheelbase recumbent like my Rans Stratus XP doesn't exhibit a lot of the problems he describes. Not all recumbents are the same.
Super 😀👍
Thanks!
I recently borrowed a recumbant bike and liked it very much. After some days I did a long and fast trip, almost like I use to do with my racing bike. After that trip my knees hurt badly! (the joints - not any muscles) Is that a general problem due to the physics of recumbant bike riding? Or would it only need more training before the first long trip?
I never experienced that. It could be the borrowed bike wasn't set up correctly for you. Getting the pedals the right distance for proper leg extension is a chore on most recumbents.
Thanks for your excellent videos. I had a Phantom Lightning for a few weeks and could not get used to the process of starting and stopping. Very wobbly. Have you mastered the process?
Also, I noticed your UT Longhorn tee shirt. Are you in Texas? My wife and I are in Marble Falls. If you are not too distant, would you like to meet for a ride?
Yes, it really didn't take long at all. Starting and stopping no problem. I am still awkward with the dismount though. I am in Pearland, just south of Houston.
20 inch front wheel solves shoe rub
Thanks for the review.
How much does your bike weigh?
How much more efficient does the recumbent feel?
How well does it climb compared to a regular bike?
Would it be significantly faster bike than a traditional mountain bike on pavement?
I have a rear rack and bag attached now along with a few other accessories. According to the bathroom scale (not very accurate) it is 48.4lbs, or just under 22kg. It's not a light bike, but considering it's size it's not bad. Weight hasn't been an issue for me. It is a more efficient ride and faster than an upright with the same amount of power exerted - how much more I can't really say, but I do average a few mph faster on it. As for climbing - on the recumbent you 'feel' even the slightest incline so climbing hills may be an issue. There are no hills around here and so I haven't experienced the MAX's climbing characteristics. Thanks for your comment!
3:42 You could ratchet pedal thru tight corners.
3:09 Positioning your inside foot close to you isn't the only option, you could also position at the top position or even the forward position.
First. I like the smaller front wheel short wheelbase recumbant designs to avoid ever dealing with shoe rubs. As for not being able to tight manuver at low speed. Thats just you and your lack of riding time. I ride a vision r40 and work in a bike rental shop and lead tours all on my r40 and i can go slower than a walk with sidewalk 90 degree tight space turns and its just being experienced and knowing the balance and your bike. Keep riding and dont neglect tuning and modding your ride. Recumbants all become rather moded to the individual rider. Happy riding
Nice no-nonsense recap of riding a recumbent bicycle. Just what I was looking for. Thank you su much, Sir. Do you feel the need to add a flag or something of the sort to it? When I ride in groups and I see someone in a recumbent I feel as if they are not very noticeable by cars.
Thanks for your comment. Yes, a flag would be a nice accessory to have. Anything to make yourself more visible is a plus.
Don't start out with a big dual wheeled bent as your first bent. Yes it is a good bent but it is not a beginner bent.
Tight corners are the only times your shoe may touch however two ways of getting past this is
1. shorter cranks as I went from 170 to 153 mm
2. ride with your heel on the pedal.
Balance on the bent comes with a fair amount of time. Steering is sensitive and all the pressure you need is the same as gripping the bars as if they were ripe bananas that you don't want to bruise.
Recumbents are different and you do not just jump on one and go for a ten minute ride to see how it performs. You need 3 weeks to get comfortable on one .
I have a 2016 Bacchetta Giro A20 that was a great bent to start with but I happen to like shorter crank arms as that gives me all the power I need and a faster spin. they are the equivalent of doing a half squat vs the full squat , a half squat has more power going up than going from the ground up. next was the seat as all sorts of people rave about the Euromesh seat and I like a full mesh seat, so that was changed. Several years go by and I finally changed the drive train from 27 speeds to 20 speeds and the front 48 tooth chain ring is gone as when fully loaded touring your higher gears are just not used. I spin / cadence is 85-90 rpm and I rarely spin a high gear unless down a hill or with the wind at my back . My gearing is in small increments for those long hills where you wish you had a lower gear or a gear in between . When you can not stand up to pedal up a hill or have to sit for 4-5 hours at a time riding between campsites it is really important to have a comfortable seat , mine is.
To sum up the difference between an upright bike and the Recumbent , it would be ; A diamond frame bike will give me the speed I love and the recumbent will give me the speed I love and comfort far in excess of any saddle that your sit bones occupy.
No shoe clips is dangerous. Pray that your foot never slips off the pedal, painful, serious injuries can result.
Parabéns pela bike,gostei Jesus te ama
MAXRider- Are recumbents faster than a regular bike or even a racing road bike? whats the highest speed you've achieved on your recumbent?
Thanks for your comment. In theory, yes recumbents are faster than upright bikes, even racing bikes. But... it really depends on the bike and the rider. A Cruzbike Vendetta, for example, is a very fast bike. My Max, not so much. Especially as I opted for wider general purpose tires (Continental Double Fighters) over the standard Schwalbe Marathon racers. As an older rider not in the greatest physical condition I can say that on this bike I easily go a little faster than on my road bike, but don't ask me about my top speed - It's not impressive!
@@maxrider5264 Thank you sir
What is make, model and size of your bike,,txs fj
It is an Azub Max with 26" wheels, front and back. I ordered it directly from the Azub website back in 2020 during the height of the pandemic.
You did not say anything about its performances versus an upright bicycle.
Now, the really scary part of a liegerad with this style of hadlebars is that in a frontal collision your nuts are going to be sent straight into a metal bar..
Hi James. Thats a fair summary of many of the ins and outs of the recumbents pros and cons thanks.
Just to add my 20c worth in addition to your information for anyone who might find it usefull..
I have bachetta giro 24 and 26. Love riding both of them, but what I would add is that after a while all of those things you mentioned about slow speed maneuvering , wobbles, putting feet down, getting off smoothly taking off from stationary smoothly etc etc virtually completely disappear and become non issues.
Maneuvering around tight obstacles like those bars at the end of alleyways to force people to slow down etc can be an issues purely because the turning circle is so much longer on a recumbent.. This cant really be helped but it mostly isnt a problem at all unless its really tight. In the worse case scenario you actually have to get off and lift the back around because it physically can not turn tight enough to make it through but its is very rare . Just tight wheelchair ramps that have tight zig zags can be minor issues.
Overall its well worth the other benefits that you gain, like no numb hands or butt.. EVER. I can ride 100 km with 0 aches. Thats just brilliant and certainly not the case on a traditional bike.
One think I dont remember you mentioniing was that uphill they can be a lot harder if the hill is very steep. mild hills no probs but steep, where you have to go slow and they require a lot more balance and the slower you end up going the harder it is to balance. I find that you just cant stop or else its hard to get going again. thats definitely a weak point if you dont have an electric motor to assist.
Another point if youre in busy city traffic is that its not so easy to see behind you because you can only turn your head and not your whole body to look behind you because your back is leaning against the seat's backrest so you dont have as much bodily articulation. This is why many recumbents have mirrors fitted, but generally Its not an issue, especially if you keep the backrest of the seat at more of an upright angle (which I dont, I like it very reclined).
Also my bike does not have suspension so i probably sit lower than you do which is why it might be easier to get on an off but despite having no suspension the bumps are nowhere near as bad as you might think Nowhere near as bad as the same bumps when ridden on a normal bike.. I think this is because your back is at a less vertical position in relation to the up and down shock forces being transmitted by road bumps, the slightly flexing suspending action of the seat backrest and the massive size and depth of the seat base, which spreads the impacts more evenly compared to a traditional bike seat.
One other hint for learners.. To quickly get used to the difference in riding one of these bikes i found it very helpful to take it to the top of a long but very mild hill, so you can get used to the balance and action of lifting your feet up and putting them on the pedals on take off WITHOUT actually having to pedal too. Its like you can get used to the handing characteristics without actually pedalling or having to also learn the art of the start/stop technique at the same time.. You get going quickly and slow glide down the hill without needing to pedal. Once you get used to that you can practice taking off with the assistance of gravity and not having to pedal, which means you will have less problems due to losing motion if you dont get the start right, which I think most people wont get right straight away.. Once or twice doing this hill practice and thats all you'll need.. Easy to learn and tottally worth it
Anyway..
I hope this helps.
Good luck to you all..
Thanks for your input! To address a couple of points you raise: 1. I live in an area with no hills at all. The roads are pretty flat with just a slight gradient. On the recumbent you really 'feel' that slight gradient when it's uphill. 2. I attach a mirror to my glasses while riding. That really helps with awareness of approaching traffic.
I just checked the Azub site, I just can't do 4,500.00...damn
Road recumbents bicycle are like a journey to Promised Land from gruesome pyramid building in Egypt.
Well said. And very true.
@@maxrider5264 I've been in recumbent commuting since 1996 till 2001. 1st ATP Vision R40 USS, trade to BikeE RX, Optima Baron traded to Cruzbike Silvio, then traded to Tour Easy, Rans Rocket from retirees still at-home. Newest for 2021 Lightning R-84.
I never returned to diamond frame since.
Why did you opt for the max instead of the six? I have a hard tail mountain bike but am considering a six or a street machine, for more comfort. With 2 26” wheels, looks really tall, am 5’ 9”.
I considered the Six vs. Max. Can't explain why, but I wanted 2-26" wheels. The Max comes standard with a rigid front fork and the Azub site says that configuration is okay for riders 170cm (5'7") and taller. I opted for the Spinner Grind spring fork and Azub cautions that riders using the Max with that fork should be 180cm or, "at the very least 175cm" tall. I am about 5' 10" (178cm) so I was a little uncertain about my choice, but having ridden it for a couple of months I have no issue with the height. Having said all that, notice that the Six comes with a Spinner Grind front fork standard at no extra charge and with the smaller front wheel rider height isn't a concern.
MAXRider thanks for the feedback. I expect the downside of 20 in the front would be less stable in the steering, a little more squirrelly, but people obviously get used to it. Anyway congrats & have fun.
@@maxrider5264 Very nice videos! Thanks for them! I understand people want to have dual 26" bikes, but there are obvious advantages of the 20" front wheel. For example, you would be able to get-off to the left side where the kickstand is easily :-)
Regarding the technique of avoiding the shoe rub: You can have a left pedal up when turning left and kind of pump with it. Just quarter of turn there and back. You don't need to make the complete pedal stroke. That is how I do with cleats.
Keep practicing, keep riding and you will be a master soon!
@@honza-galla Great advice. I hadn't thought of 'pumping' the pedals. I'll give it a try. Thanks!
@@honza-galla the Azub master has spoke
It is really nice sir. You impressed me! May I know which country you are belonging to? #perfectbackpacker
Yes, I'm here in the U.S. In southeast Texas near Houston. Thanks for watching!
@@maxrider5264 Wow! Great sir...
Did you face any difficulty while climbing uphill??
The terrain is so flat around here I really can't comment. However, you really can 'feel' even the slightest inclines on this bike.
The long wheelbase recumbents have almost no learning curve. The downside is they are much longer.
This guy sounds like David Duke
He is a Christian. He has that annointed glow
where did u find a bike to test ride? I want one but I want to ride one first, I have back issues from years in Army
I didn't. I ordered this direct from the factory. Took a chance, but I knew it would be a great bike.
How much dolour
About $4k USD including delivery to the United States.
Your handlebars are too close to your body, I have a similar recumbent and hard turns for you would be difficult. I can ride slowly it is just practice. I agree with all your other observations. One thing you didn’t mention is when going downhill your bike will accelerate much quicker than normal bikes, the lack of air resistance is obvious. It is a favourite bike, I believe I could ride further than me on a normal bike. I added an enviola hub to the rear wheel which gives me better control when climbing hills. That is something you will learn in your second month.
The ONLY good recumbent ever is the now defunct Bike E. This bike like all other recumbent attempts look ridiculous...suggest riders wear a mask or bag over their faces. The bike E has the rider sit at the great recline position. And it sits lower that this bike so easy to get on and off. These recumbent trikes are a joke that only a fool would ride as the front 2 wheels are Seperated wide so they take up a typical bike/walking path too much. Sadly the Bike E company is out of business now but there are plenty of good used ones.
Superman bar is more stable ....
True. And they look cool too. Unfortunately, it wasn't offered from Azub when I ordered mine. Under seat steering was the only other option I had.
The handle bars look way to close to your chest, my arms would wear out in that position
desculpa mas eu vou descordar de muita informação sua,,
primeiro voce está muito tenso nessa bike.
e pedalando errado com as pernas abertas o tronco travado todo duro.
assim ela não vai ti servi pra nada.
o que está ti faltando é o intendimento aerodinãmico dessa bike.
voce comprou essa bike e precisa se encaixa nesse projeto.
no meu caso sem formação eu já fiz 3 modelos diferentes e estou muito feliz.
e um outro detalhe não compare ela com as bikes vertical,, por favor,, ok
Looks dodgy, will go for a recumbant trike for comfort instead
I know what you mean. I seriously considered a trike, but the deciding factor was that I didn't want to be that low while riding. Good luck!
@@maxrider5264 Got the recumbent trike an ICE SPrint X 26 Tour. Got fed up with it being alot slower climbing hills than my diamond frame so put a motor on it making it a pleasure to ride. Considering getting a 2 wheel recumbent for touring though such as the Azub six or the Azub Max 26 , as I assume will be quite a bit faster than a non electric trike.
@@DemiGod.. Awesome. Congrats on the new trike! 👍
OK. But you must get off on the left or the horse will kick you. You been mule kicked ifn ya didn know that.
😆 Good one!
á não,,,,, voce parece está á me fazer de palhaço,,,
vc ta fazendo a bike de besta mesmo. vou mandar augo para vc..
para desclassificar tudo que vc falou..
com eu gostaria de ter dinheiro para comprar uma super bike dessa.
Well 1st thing is you have a ridiculous recumbent! The ONLY really good recumbent bike is the Bike E. Sadly they are out of business. The bike you have sits too high and the seat reclines too far. Also the seat cannot adjust anywhere near what a bike E seat can. I just saw to recumbent trikes on the trail today and they are ridiculous also as they sit way too low and the wheel space between the front wheels takes up too much of the concrete path. There is ONLY one good real recumbent and that is the Bike E.