Ok I did this last night on my 2008. It worked great for the test drive, but crapped out this morning. I get no flashing AT ALL now, no turns, no 4-way (hazards). Any good ideas what's up? I replaced the relay with a bigger better with an external ground this evening, but same condition remains. thanks
This is exactly why it's moronic to change to led lights and then you had to install resistors to trick the system only to have everything crap out on you. Over what?? Cool "energy saving" leds?? What's so bad with halogens in the first place anyways? Endless dissatisfaction leading to endless tinkering with everything will lead to endless miseries down the road
@@johnmonk3381 I didn't put numerous resistors in the system I only added a relay and dropped the lighting control circuit. No big deal. I now have the brightness and functionality I love. It has been working flawlessly and the dual-color turn signals are fantastic for daytime lights and being seen out there. Every exterior bulb on one car is now LED and the other car is undergoing the conversions now. I have better, longer lasting and brighter lights all the way around. It has REALLY enhanced my darkness driving ability to see and to be seen. The drawbacks or tradeoffs are WELL within my comfort zone. Some folks can't handle "non-factory" no-warranties living, but that's how I've been rolling since I started. It's not for everyone. Be safe out there.
@@johnmonk3381 Some, not I, might say that it's moronic to purchase a new car in order to get better lighting when he/she can improve on the situation at hand.
@@wadepatton2433 well since your original comment was like a year ago, obviously you had the time to figure everything out. And i'm sure you had your fair share of disappointments when things don't turn out the way you expected them and then you had to keep trying and modifying things. So I'm glad you finally got the satisfaction you seek. But for me, yeah I got hyper-flashing too after installing led lights but i decided against installing shunt resistors to try and trick the system in order to avoid, well, the problems you described. I ain't got the time and money to do all kinds of tinkering around just to switch to leds. I'm staying with good old halogens for now. Another option I might try is swap out the original flasher relay with the one designed for leds, and as i said, that might come with risks as well and it might lead to repercussions. so i guess i'll do with halogens after all. The reason i was thinking of switching to leds was to save on power consumption which the installation of the power resistors will ultimately negate because those damn resistors will be behaving and dissipating energy as if halogen lamps themselves! So what have i ended up doing?? Absolutely NOTHING except looking like a "smart" dumbass
I just got a flasher relay replacement, since my car is a integra, which is the same as a civic, it was easy to find one Edit* the led flasher relay works just fine, and you can even adjust the speed of the flash
I did this and it worked for my 98 GM, but now my brake lights stay on all the time ONLY when the ignition is in the ON position. Can somebody please help me figure what’s wrong?!
Go to 2:33 in the video. The numbers of the pins are in the 2006 Ford shop manual that I have in the video. Verify your wires are the same for your year before you cut anything.
I have to admit your video is horrible if the Flasher has two connections on it so one goes to ground correct? And the other goes to the four wires that you cut or you need to flashers to pull this off I mean it's very vague you don't show anything you could barely see the Flasher you can't see the wires how you connect them to the Flasher so the video is actually pretty useless you say cut four cables put two together and the other two together where do they go to to one flasher or two flashers be a little bit more specific so the video can have some kind of value because right now it has no value
It doesn’t actually matter which prong you put to supply, it’s reversible. However to do this properly he would have a separate flasher for each circuit since the oem is essentially a 5 prong.
Thanks man! Installing this tomorrow. I appreciate it.
Just did the flasher bypass Saturday. But I went through the turn signal switch.
Ok I did this last night on my 2008. It worked great for the test drive, but crapped out this morning. I get no flashing AT ALL now, no turns, no 4-way (hazards). Any good ideas what's up? I replaced the relay with a bigger better with an external ground this evening, but same condition remains. thanks
Several fuses feed the LCM, I've got to check those out.
This is exactly why it's moronic to change to led lights and then you had to install resistors to trick the system only to have everything crap out on you. Over what?? Cool "energy saving" leds?? What's so bad with halogens in the first place anyways? Endless dissatisfaction leading to endless tinkering with everything will lead to endless miseries down the road
@@johnmonk3381 I didn't put numerous resistors in the system I only added a relay and dropped the lighting control circuit. No big deal. I now have the brightness and functionality I love. It has been working flawlessly and the dual-color turn signals are fantastic for daytime lights and being seen out there. Every exterior bulb on one car is now LED and the other car is undergoing the conversions now. I have better, longer lasting and brighter lights all the way around. It has REALLY enhanced my darkness driving ability to see and to be seen. The drawbacks or tradeoffs are WELL within my comfort zone. Some folks can't handle "non-factory" no-warranties living, but that's how I've been rolling since I started. It's not for everyone. Be safe out there.
@@johnmonk3381 Some, not I, might say that it's moronic to purchase a new car in order to get better lighting when he/she can improve on the situation at hand.
@@wadepatton2433 well since your original comment was like a year ago, obviously you had the time to figure everything out. And i'm sure you had your fair share of disappointments when things don't turn out the way you expected them and then you had to keep trying and modifying things. So I'm glad you finally got the satisfaction you seek. But for me, yeah I got hyper-flashing too after installing led lights but i decided against installing shunt resistors to try and trick the system in order to avoid, well, the problems you described. I ain't got the time and money to do all kinds of tinkering around just to switch to leds. I'm staying with good old halogens for now. Another option I might try is swap out the original flasher relay with the one designed for leds, and as i said, that might come with risks as well and it might lead to repercussions. so i guess i'll do with halogens after all. The reason i was thinking of switching to leds was to save on power consumption which the installation of the power resistors will ultimately negate because those damn resistors will be behaving and dissipating energy as if halogen lamps themselves! So what have i ended up doing?? Absolutely NOTHING except looking like a "smart" dumbass
I just got a flasher relay replacement, since my car is a integra, which is the same as a civic, it was easy to find one
Edit* the led flasher relay works just fine, and you can even adjust the speed of the flash
I didn't try it yet but I'll update it after maybe
Good thanks bro!!!!!!
I have a 2011 town car. I assume that the wiring is the same. Anyone know if this method work with Switchback turn signals? Thanks
It should work the same way.
I did this and it worked for my 98 GM, but now my brake lights stay on all the time ONLY when the ignition is in the ON position. Can somebody please help me figure what’s wrong?!
What number pins or colored wires connectors do you disconnect from module ?
Go to 2:33 in the video. The numbers of the pins are in the 2006 Ford shop manual that I have in the video. Verify your wires are the same for your year before you cut anything.
So after the 4 wires are cut do I need to run the WH-RD wires and LB coming OUT of the LCM Into to flasher or the ends going INTO it?
The ends going into it, because you need to bypass the LCM and use the round flasher instead. You must bypass the LCM.
@@SajeevMehta so the wires that go INTO the connector on the LCM, need to be connected to the LED flasher correct?
@@KombustionKingdom yes, they no longer go INTO the LCM, if that makes sense
@@SajeevMehta ah yes. Instead of going into the LCM connector, they now go into the FLASHER. Okay 👍🏻 thanks for your help!
@@KombustionKingdom yup, you just don't let the LCM control the flash rate anymore. Good luck
If only four ends go into the flasher, what happens to the other four and which four are the right ones
Does that work for the rear lights as well?
Yup!
Does this work for p7b's as well?
I assume it works for all Fords on the Panther Chassis!
Finally someone explains it correctly 😂
I have to admit your video is horrible if the Flasher has two connections on it so one goes to ground correct? And the other goes to the four wires that you cut or you need to flashers to pull this off I mean it's very vague you don't show anything you could barely see the Flasher you can't see the wires how you connect them to the Flasher so the video is actually pretty useless you say cut four cables put two together and the other two together where do they go to to one flasher or two flashers be a little bit more specific so the video can have some kind of value because right now it has no value
There are like 3 more videos out there.
It doesn’t actually matter which prong you put to supply, it’s reversible. However to do this properly he would have a separate flasher for each circuit since the oem is essentially a 5 prong.
@@dougbauer8608 thanks for that tidbit. I've done the mod here and it worked last night, today it didn't. I'm yet to get it sorted out.