I was trying to remove a stripped screw that holds down a shower drain. I tried the usual approaches - rubber band, etc. with no luck. I bought this tool and it was totally useless. The burnishing bit was to feeble to even remove much material and in fact made it worse. Eventually, I just took a hammer and a flat blade screw driver and gave it few whacks and I had the screw out in a minute. This is a bit like using the dremel tool to cut a slot, but I don't have one and the hammer approach worked perfectly.
fyi those set screws come out without much fuss (even up here in MN where rust is severe), if you use a manual impact screw driver. the ones you hit with a hammer.
I tried to use to remove deck screws which of course are anywhere from 3-4 inches and for the first 3-4 screws them other attempts failed. Didn't seem to be drilling pilot hole and then extractor bit just spun. Went to larger bit and it worked for a couple screws but them became lodged in my quick-change device and the bit jammed in the device and could not remove it with every trick in the book. Ended up used another method to remove deck screws. Would not try this type of removal tool ever again.
I had the same problem. What it was that I didn't screw it out deep enough before switching to the extractor. I've even needed to size up on only the extractor part, which works well. If it's not even biting, it's because you didn't go deep enough.
As @El See said below, the correct tool to remove these assembly screws is an impact driver such as this: CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver. You hit it with a hammer, which gives it both the inward push towards the screw and the twisting force at the same time. If that doesn't work use an angle grinder as shown. In other news, you can pitch those assembly screws. They are for ease of assembly and that wheel stud thing you had is a way better solution. YMMV.
IT is a good product, but some how the company that makes them for "speed out" and a bunch of others is not the original Alden Grab bit Pro, which is or was made in Germany and was of a much better material strength than those made for "Speedout" and other brands thus they don't do well because they were made cheap. However, Milwaukee has released a similar set in May 2023 so it will have to be tested to see how it actually stands up because Milwaukee will not put their name on Crap products.
1 year late but I figured It’s still worth chiming in on this point… SpeedOut is Grabbit, it’s the same product by the same seller, they just changed the label.
These Honda brake rotor holding screws are an absolute nuisance. The designer should be fired. The purpose is to hold the rotor in place when installing the brake parts. This could be done easily by using the wheel lugs. Instead, they came up with this stupid idea of using the tiny Philips head screw that always srtips. They should at least use an allen head screw with anti-seize prior to installing or better still, not use it at all.
I was trying to remove a stripped screw that holds down a shower drain. I tried the usual approaches - rubber band, etc. with no luck. I bought this tool and it was totally useless. The burnishing bit was to feeble to even remove much material and in fact made it worse. Eventually, I just took a hammer and a flat blade screw driver and gave it few whacks and I had the screw out in a minute. This is a bit like using the dremel tool to cut a slot, but I don't have one and the hammer approach worked perfectly.
I just cancelled my Amazon order after viewing this video - exactly coz I have a dremel!
fyi those set screws come out without much fuss (even up here in MN where rust is severe), if you use a manual impact screw driver. the ones you hit with a hammer.
Thanks for this great tutorial, it worked out for little screws
Did you spray some wd40 first and let it sit? That usually helps..
The prob is theyre not made of cobalt just coated in it
Good stuff
You have use the impact screwdriver .
I tried to use to remove deck screws which of course are anywhere from 3-4 inches and for the first 3-4 screws them other attempts failed. Didn't seem to be drilling pilot hole and then extractor bit just spun. Went to larger bit and it worked for a couple screws but them became lodged in my quick-change device and the bit jammed in the device and could not remove it with every trick in the book. Ended up used another method to remove deck screws. Would not try this type of removal tool ever again.
Set the clutch correctly on your drill so it acts as a impact
That screw was moving while you were manually turning your drill...
It doesn’t work or maybe I don’t know how to used
I am about to try this on a Stove Door that stripped out. Its pretty small tho so lets hope it works out!
Good luck!
It doesn't work for a screw of my kitchen faucet.
A bit of an extreme test for a ¼” drive extractor
Did not work for my deck screw. The bit just spins
I had the same problem. What it was that I didn't screw it out deep enough before switching to the extractor. I've even needed to size up on only the extractor part, which works well. If it's not even biting, it's because you didn't go deep enough.
If you use a wrench if would have more likely worked. The drill tried to twist in your hand and went sideways.
Good video but I think you mean the screw wouldn't come out of your brake ROTOR, not your caliper. I may buy the set even though your bit broke.
Wd40
nah
@FF4 loosen many of bolt and screws with wd-40. You have to let it sit for a while and sometimes you just don't have the time
you needed a jis impact screwdriver for honda, but great video anyways
As @El See said below, the correct tool to remove these assembly screws is an impact driver such as this: CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver. You hit it with a hammer, which gives it both the inward push towards the screw and the twisting force at the same time. If that doesn't work use an angle grinder as shown. In other news, you can pitch those assembly screws. They are for ease of assembly and that wheel stud thing you had is a way better solution. YMMV.
Yep, I thought it was too stripped for an impact hammer.
IT is a good product, but some how the company that makes them for "speed out" and a bunch of others is not the original Alden Grab bit Pro, which is or was made in Germany and was of a much better material strength than those made for "Speedout" and other brands thus they don't do well because they were made cheap. However, Milwaukee has released a similar set in May 2023 so it will have to be tested to see how it actually stands up because Milwaukee will not put their name on Crap products.
1 year late but I figured It’s still worth chiming in on this point…
SpeedOut is Grabbit, it’s the same product by the same seller, they just changed the label.
Rotor
That's a rough rotor design. Honda does this i heard, not very DIY or mechanic friendly.
These Honda brake rotor holding screws are an absolute nuisance. The designer should be fired. The purpose is to hold the rotor in place when installing the brake parts. This could be done easily by using the wheel lugs. Instead, they came up with this stupid idea of using the tiny Philips head screw that always srtips. They should at least use an allen head screw with anti-seize prior to installing or better still, not use it at all.
Its easier to just drill the screw out on a rotor
LOL he used grinder
Brake Caliper hahaha