Best video of the repair process that I've found. One detail though, you have the "tap" and "die" switched. The "tap" is for internal threads, the "die" is for external threads.
Thank you for sharing this info. Lewmar support told me to cut a plastic washer out of a plastic milk container. I had some teflon washers custom made to fit behind the gypsy, which has worked perfectly. But your fix is the correct approach and worked.
You are a genius, thank you, thank you, thank you. Lewmar winch repaired following your video. For what these costs, we should not have to be doing these things. Although I found no need to remove the chain wheel, just left it on there and had plenty of room.
I've got a Pro-Series 1000. While a different clutch system, I'm having the same issue. I ordered up Tap & Die and will take apart the winch this week for a tru diagnosis. PITA for sure.
nice work. I called Lewmar for rope not pulling, they said I need a new cap. didn't know about the tread needed to be clean of debris. now the boat is at the dealer, under warranty. good to know for future. Thank you
@@mrwrapper You are mixing two different things. Mark asked about the large socket I used to drive the tap. The tap is 5/8 x18 NF but that was not his question.
This is a great video. I followed through with everything, but this did not fix my retrieval problem. My windlass stopped retrieving after I installed a new cap provided by lewmar (I broke the retaining pin in the original cap). After much frustration, I finally realized the new cap threads start approximately 1mm deeper than the original cap. This resulted in the pin hitting the cam too early during retrieval and cap wouldn’t be tight enough. The anchor line would easily slip. Lewmar support was great for awhile as they sent me too new caps. But the eventually gave up as they couldn’t figure out the problem.
Thank you for your video, I might be having the same issue in a Proseries-1000. Not sure if it is the same issue because in my case with chain works good but not with the rode. In your case before your work did it worked with the chain, I guess not as it seems the gipsy is not moving.
@@robgrundwaldsame problem for me - I can’t get the ProFish cap off. The free fall button pushed in, using the Lewmar tool to counter and I’m giving the 1/2” drive all I’ve got (I’m not weak). The cap does not budge at all. I even used a rubber mallet to try to get the 1/2” drive to loosen the cap but nothing. Any advice would be appreciated.
It is a tool used to make threads on a rod. In this case it is cleaning up and rethreading the worn out threads. Google Tap & Die for more info. Tap makes threads on the male end and die makes threads in the female end.
I think a bit of both. Be sure to tie your line off to a cleat when anchoring and don't use this windlass to break free a stuck anchor. Both of those will prolong the life but eventually everything wears out too.
Hello, i broke the center bolt innside the cap, or the Gypsy drive shaft, trying to get the cap of , do you think i have to change the whole Gypsy drive shaft because some of the center bolt is left inside....?
Well you will need to get the bolt out. So there are a few ways none are fun: EZ out, LH drill bit, or drill out and re-tap. If you can get the bolt out you won't need to replace the shaft. I haven't torn down the windlass to the point of removing the shaft so I am not sure if it is even removable for that matter.
Could you in your description describe WHAT failure mode you are fixing? You chased two bolt threads? Why? Why did that fix the problem of won't retrieve?
Best video of the repair process that I've found. One detail though, you have the "tap" and "die" switched. The "tap" is for internal threads, the "die" is for external threads.
Thank you for sharing this info. Lewmar support told me to cut a plastic washer out of a plastic milk container. I had some teflon washers custom made to fit behind the gypsy, which has worked perfectly. But your fix is the correct approach and worked.
You are a genius, thank you, thank you, thank you. Lewmar winch repaired following your video. For what these costs, we should not have to be doing these things. Although I found no need to remove the chain wheel, just left it on there and had plenty of room.
Thank you so much. You just saved me 1000.00. Wish I could buy you a few beer. Cheers bro!
No worries!
Thank you Rob, cleaned up my windless and repaired some damage. This video was well done!
Great video haven’t had the free fall working in 2 years cleaned the threads with the tap and die works perfect . ThankYou
I've got a Pro-Series 1000. While a different clutch system, I'm having the same issue. I ordered up Tap & Die and will take apart the winch this week for a tru diagnosis. PITA for sure.
nice work. I called Lewmar for rope not pulling, they said I need a new cap. didn't know about the tread needed to be clean of debris. now the boat is at the dealer, under warranty. good to know for future. Thank you
every thing u said worked great. my lewmar works 100% now. Thanks
Great video. What size is that bomber socket used when you cleaned the threads with the dye?
Its big....1-7/16"
@@robgrundwald the video say s 5/8
@@mrwrapper You are mixing two different things. Mark asked about the large socket I used to drive the tap. The tap is 5/8 x18 NF but that was not his question.
This is a great video. I followed through with everything, but this did not fix my retrieval problem.
My windlass stopped retrieving after I installed a new cap provided by lewmar (I broke the retaining pin in the original cap).
After much frustration, I finally realized the new cap threads start approximately 1mm deeper than the original cap. This resulted in the pin hitting the cam too early during retrieval and cap wouldn’t be tight enough. The anchor line would easily slip.
Lewmar support was great for awhile as they sent me too new caps. But the eventually gave up as they couldn’t figure out the problem.
Thank you for your video, I might be having the same issue in a Proseries-1000. Not sure if it is the same issue because in my case with chain works good but not with the rode. In your case before your work did it worked with the chain, I guess not as it seems the gipsy is not moving.
It did not move chain or rode but this problem is very common with the dissimilar metals between that shaft and cap.
I can't get the Profish cap off. It comes out somewhat, but not all the way. Threads are damaged?
Very likely threads are damaged. Try getting it off with a longer breaker bar.
@@robgrundwaldsame problem for me - I can’t get the ProFish cap off. The free fall button pushed in, using the Lewmar tool to counter and I’m giving the 1/2” drive all I’ve got (I’m not weak). The cap does not budge at all. I even used a rubber mallet to try to get the 1/2” drive to loosen the cap but nothing. Any advice would be appreciated.
@@mathiaswiktorsson if all else fails put a pipe over a breaker bar to extend it. Something will give up.
Thanks for the video! Huge help. Much appreciated.
Glad it helped!
Totally fixed my issue!!! Thank you
Great to hear!
This will also fix the opposite problem, when it won’t freefall. I have since upgraded to a Good Windlass. Seems to be much more robust
What is the "die" that you are spinning? Is this a tool used to clean? Is it part of the windlass?
It is a tool used to make threads on a rod. In this case it is cleaning up and rethreading the worn out threads. Google Tap & Die for more info. Tap makes threads on the male end and die makes threads in the female end.
Any idea what would cause the opposite problem? Mine will go up, but not down all the sudden.
The only time mine won't go down is if the line is bound up somewhere in the anchor locker or if the line is frayed where it meets the chain.
Rob…I have this problem and will use your great video to fix mine. Many thanks…will advise
Is the problem caused by abuse or normal wear and tear?
I think a bit of both. Be sure to tie your line off to a cleat when anchoring and don't use this windlass to break free a stuck anchor. Both of those will prolong the life but eventually everything wears out too.
Excellent video, thank you for posting.
Could you please post the size of the tap and die it was very hard to hear
5/8" -18 NF
Great video and thank you for walking through the steps, very helpful as I need to do the same thing to mine this week.
Hello, i broke the center bolt innside the cap, or the Gypsy drive shaft, trying to get the cap of , do you think i have to change the whole Gypsy drive shaft because some of the center bolt is left inside....?
Well you will need to get the bolt out. So there are a few ways none are fun: EZ out, LH drill bit, or drill out and re-tap. If you can get the bolt out you won't need to replace the shaft. I haven't torn down the windlass to the point of removing the shaft so I am not sure if it is even removable for that matter.
Hey mate I think I've done the same. How did you get yours off?
This did the trick for me
huge help..thxxxxx
Could you in your description describe WHAT failure mode you are fixing? You chased two bolt threads? Why? Why did that fix the problem of won't retrieve?
@@mrunning10 because the threads get stripped due to dissimilar metals used and the cap won’t tighten enough to retrieve the line.
@@robgrundwald Gave it a try. Threads definitely look and ran smooth but still not working, not up taking. Threw it in the bay and bought a Maxwell.
@@mrunning10 probably a good move. I bought a Good brand windlass a while ago.