I missed a few notifications just realized tonight you had a couple of videos up recently, that a strong foundation you have there my buddy , looking forward to the build now, hope you have an awesome week
If those are Standard CMU, then depending on the manufacture it should be in the range between 2000-2400 psi in compressive strength. I doubt if they are even HS or UHS CMU. With out the cores being filled, gravity and the weight (snow load area?) of the building will do a number on the CMU. As for the wind, correct me if I am wrong, was there any hold downs between the CMU and the floor joists? Can this be saved in a retrofit now that the subfloor is nailed and glued into place? You can if you are willing crawl through to do the work. Cast-in-Place a Simpson Strong Tie LSTHD Light Strap-Tie Holdown with the top nailed into the girders first and the bottom into the cells for embedment. Or use the Strong Rod system from Simpson to catch the wood members and the embedment. Then use a concrete mix such as s 4000 psi crack resistant with the fibers in it and pour into the cells. Use truss plates on both sides to keep the blocking stabilized. Finish up with Hurricane Ties between the floor joists and the girders. Another possible solution for at least the perimeter where the heavy concentration of weight will be, you can retrofit with the Helical Pier system to catch the girder and then use Hurricane Ties to finish up. Not that I am being critical or anything, but, I see a family that will be using the cabin and just concern about someone's safety.
How do you want to attach the house? At the moment you can push it completely off the wooden boards, you don't need much effort. It's a really wild thing coming from me and I have no idea about fastenings or anchoring a wooden house. But logic tells me that something is wrong. This is not a residential trailer.
I missed a few notifications just realized tonight you had a couple of videos up recently, that a strong foundation you have there my buddy , looking forward to the build now, hope you have an awesome week
If those are Standard CMU, then depending on the manufacture it should be in the range between 2000-2400 psi in compressive strength. I doubt if they are even HS or UHS CMU. With out the cores being filled, gravity and the weight (snow load area?) of the building will do a number on the CMU. As for the wind, correct me if I am wrong, was there any hold downs between the CMU and the floor joists?
Can this be saved in a retrofit now that the subfloor is nailed and glued into place? You can if you are willing crawl through to do the work. Cast-in-Place a Simpson Strong Tie LSTHD Light Strap-Tie Holdown with the top nailed into the girders first and the bottom into the cells for embedment. Or use the Strong Rod system from Simpson to catch the wood members and the embedment. Then use a concrete mix such as s 4000 psi crack resistant with the fibers in it and pour into the cells. Use truss plates on both sides to keep the blocking stabilized. Finish up with Hurricane Ties between the floor joists and the girders.
Another possible solution for at least the perimeter where the heavy concentration of weight will be, you can retrofit with the Helical Pier system to catch the girder and then use Hurricane Ties to finish up.
Not that I am being critical or anything, but, I see a family that will be using the cabin and just concern about someone's safety.
What will keep that structure from sliding off those hollow block uprights ??? Nothing is tied together !!!
Just a strong wind could topple the whole building. Cement posts not cinder blocks.
Is the flooring frame attached to the foundation?this
How do you want to attach the house? At the moment you can push it completely off the wooden boards, you don't need much effort. It's a really wild thing coming from me and I have no idea about fastenings or anchoring a wooden house. But logic tells me that something is wrong. This is not a residential trailer.