VW Engine Building: Crank & Rod Assembly, Type 1, 1500-1600cc
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- Aircooled Volkswagen Type 1 engine building video: Crank and rod assembly. Mike Smith shows how to heat up the gears and get them installed on the crank, in the right direction. The VW nose bearing needs to line up correctly, because it has a dowel pin hole, that matches up with the dowel pin in the VW case half.
Mike then covers rod/rod bearing install onto the VW crank. Even if you've used Plastigage or whatever to measure the clearances, the rod still might hang up on the crank, as illustrated here. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I am seventy years old and was building these when I was twenty. Your excellent video bought back so many happy memories of the great engine that started a 46 year career in the automotive service industry. Thank you!
+AAHKLEE thanks for the comment, appreciate it!
@Joshua Mohammed i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge. I can't say how important and valuable your videos are in my life. Blessings
thx mike! glad to see that it's helping with the vws.
Thank you so much for making these I'm young and new to these engines and this helps a ton
Appreciate the feedback, thanks! Good luck with your engine build.
I have visited these videos I don't know how many times. Everytime I take a little more from them. I hope you are still doing well and staying healthy. Got any videos of front suspension i.e. getting ball joints out and torsion arms removed. AAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!
Thanks for watching, sorry these VW engine building videos are the only thing we shot.
Excellent and very helpful,thanks
Louis Macrides thanks
So wait the play between the rod an crank has to be almost the same as the valve adjusting?
+MrPyroBomb - There definitely has to be some play there, so that the rod doesn't bind up against the sides of the crank journals. Always check the Bentley, to be sure that you are using the right specs.
these vids are fantastic. however, i do hope the timing gear is not made of brass. not the first time i've heard that..
+Da Os - thanks for the positive feedback, and yes, i think that the timing gear is still being made out of brass... it actually lasts quite awhile in this application.
in that case i stand corrected. thanks!
Changing the rods so i mean placing number 1 to 4 is this (how do you say it) smart to do? And where can i buy the disk with the full video so all the videos in 1 cd? (do you ship to belgium?)
+MrPyroBomb - Sorry, not sure that I understand the 1 to 4 question? I would face them up in the same manner as in the video. We stopped making DVDs because disc/cover printing got to be too much of a hassle, for the number of discs that we were selling. So we put it on the internet, where people could look at it for free :-)
DragRacingTV i mean when you have a rod that is tight on one like you said, you also tryed this on a different spot, what if it would be lose and not so stiff can you leave it in that spot?
DragRacingTV got it :)
+MrPyroBomb - So the rod situation is good? Glad to hear it!
DragRacingTV jup :)
How hot? i.e. to what temperature do you heat the gears?
+DG Carlson I wondered the same thing, but we didn't have laser temp guns back then to actually measure it. The annealing point of brass is somewhere well over 500 degrees? I wouldn't want to be near that, so any kind of visual red heat look would probably be bad. The operating temp of the oil can easily approach the boiling point of water, as indicated with the Gene Berg temp dipstick that fits in the dipstick hole in the case. So heating it to at least 212 degrees shouldn't be a problem.
It's probably a good idea to measure the I.D. of the gear and O.D. of crank first, check the interference fit, I've heard stories of the gear sliding on the crank with everything cold, which would be a disaster.
Can you replace rod bearings without splitting the case?
That's an interesting question, I've never tried it, but if there is a bad rod bearing I imagine that there will be metal particles floating around and potential crank damage, so I'd guess that it's not a good idea in the long run.
@@DragRacingTV thank you for your insight.