Hearing dad say "alright, good work today, love you, bye" was the most heart warming part of this video lol. Love when family can work together, and love when parents remind their kids that they love them. Class act, both of you fellas!
Went to the comments to say this knowing it had been said. Reminds me of my Dad. Love it. Also the fact that Jordan left it in. Got me smirkin but props to him.
Agreed. It's clear to me that Paul is an excellent communicator as Jordan has the same skills. Not the type of angry misunderstanding dialogue most of us experience. These guys model healthy relationship.
I gotta say, I started watching StudPack improve my DIY game. I keep watching because of your awesome personalities. The awesome relationship you guys have is a bonus. Thanks for not being afraid to share it. Hearing Paul say "good job today bud. I love you." Puts a lump in my throat. Paul reminds me a lot of my dad, even looks like him. We don't see each other much anymore though. Treasure what you have guys.
Man I could listen to Paul talk for hours about the structure of homes, plumbing, electrical, whatever. Thanks for giving him the space to share his thoughts.
Had to do a washing machine drain overhaul about 12 years ago. No big box store had Oakem, only one older plumber knew what it was. Luckily my dad was a Jack of all trades and he had kept his lead melting pot, lead and enough Oakem for me to do the repair. I remembered how to do it from watching him as a young adolescent when he modified the plumbing under my childhood home, making a fully enclosed basement with numerous floor utility type drains, bathroom sewerage and sewerage rerouting. My dad was an amazingly intelligent fellow to have been able to finish the 4th grade due to having to leave East Central Miss and go to Oregon and Washington State to pick fruit and vegetables to send most of his pay back to his mom and younger brothers for their support. Miss him dearly.
Paul, you're really a great teacher, anticipating questions, giving background, alternative ways and their pros and cons and a really great "host" with your intros and outros. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Tip from a weekend warrior, when you have removed all the wallpaper, give the walls a coat of shellac. That will seal the drywall facing and give a good surface for priming.
One of my favorite parts of Stud Pack is your willingness to tackle any project and being 100% honest and real. You might be professionals, but your videos are so helpful that any DiY'er can follow the logic and procedures. Very informative, educational, and entertaining. Thanks Stud Pack!
Hey Jordan it's awesome you get to work with your pops everyday doing your own work I'm 29 lost my dad in 08 when I was 16 so enjoy every day even the rough ones off camera 😆
Your strategy for soaking the wallpaper with a sprayer first is what you want. Method of action: 1.Perforate really well all around 2.Soak with a warm water/fabric softener and let sit overnight. 3. Next day, hit with a quick once over with the perforator again and start steaming. Should pull off in pretty large sections. The fabric softener the day before is key. Use a 1:4 ratio of hot water to softener.
@@ivpu2465 fabric softener is something that gets added to the rinse cycle of a clothes washing machine to keep the fabric smelling good and to help the fabric. Look up Downey fabric softener.
Planning out the shower drain issue shows your experience. Non pros like me would have gone ahead and started the floor tiling on the old drain....before realizing too late that it would not work! That's why pros are paid the money they charge.
Yip you're paying for there experience and the amount of studying they've done over the years. Always leave a job that you THINK you can do to professionals like the stud pack 💪
Getting it wrong and knowing is part of being a pro, 100% of the time you mess up you learn... Well most people... I've learned hands on over 30years everything on a house, I've even built a earth home out of sand bags and used tires, I'm on my second build now, I can only say try it and fail, so you learn... Because really ain't that the definition of life? I mean everyone thinks they know life and death, lol I don't think so... IDK I see both ways, I'll hire a pro in something I don't know or can't figure out, but best believe I'm watching and taking notes... Lol
for the steamer, i use it directly on the paper just don't leave it on for too long as it then can blow out the plaster, just enough to wet the paper, and start at the top so the water drips down, doing it from the bottom means more water on the lower parts which increases the risk of the plaster being saturated and "melting"
Try a carbide tipped metal blade for the cast iron pipe. Made a world of difference when I switched to them, especially on blade eaters like cast iron.
Fellas I got a story about the $600 Bosch hammer. I started demo on a 2nd floor 1920's bathroom for a customer of mine last week. It looked almost identical to yalls project (2" mortar on all walls), BUT the floor had a 4" slab... on the second floor. The shower drain ran THRU this slab, not between floor joists. I started busting it up and I found WATER LINES in the slab, again, not in between floor joists, on top of them. On top of all that, all the joists were hand chiseled into a triangle shape with one-by material in between each joist to hold up the slab. It was the weirdest work I've ever seen. I've got pictures if you want to see them. That job would have been impossible without the Bosch hammer drill you guys recommended. Keep up the good work!
Recently found your channel. I’ve been a carpenter/contractor for 42 years and in the trades for 50 years. (Still going strong.....I’m 72....swamped with work and opportunity. ) Frequently, I will do electrical/plumbing mods related to kitchen/bath remodels. Given all my years of experience, I have learned from you. Your descriptions/teaching/demonstrations are excellent, Paul. Your general personality vibe, attitude and lack of ego are cherries on the top. Our ethics are the same.....concern for quality and the customers satisfaction. We would get along. Happy Hollidays, Paul and thanks for taking your time to share your wisdom. You folks new to the trades.....pay attention to this guy. Priceless info.and it’s dead accurate. You won’t learn this at community college. Dave Heitman dba Dave The Carpenter in Omaha
Use a large straight blade knock down knife to separate the paper from the dry wall after its been moistened with hot water on a sponge, the roller spikes help for the hot water to get under the paper and free up the bond. A heat gun will work well too, just keep it moving so it doesn't start to burn the paper. From a Stud Pack Crew member.
When I removed wallpaper, I tried it all..the chemicals made just for that, soapy water, hot water - even a steamer. What I always went back to was, DOWNEY fabric softener. I would peel or perf near the top, then wet the paper with DOWNEY in warm water. As you mentioned- wet down in front of that steamer-but adding Downey sure helped. (Half the time I could usually skip dragging out my steamer)I think the softening agents just helped plus held the wetness to the paper longer. It helps-A LOT! Plus the smell is great!
@@StudPack You can use thin painters plastic to cover the wall once perforated and the liquid is applied. The plastic keeps the moisture in. I used special wallpaper remover and this handheld perforator thing when I removed mine. Was VERY easy.
When Paul went into the sloping info, I definitely listened and learned a lot. The pebble flooring is something I want to use in one of my future bathroom remodels; so I hope to see how they progress on that. I would have never thought to move the drain placement to accommodate the sloping and would have gone with a different tile; but now I feel I can follow suit and use the knowledge to get it done.
Noticed how dusty your safety glasses got during concrete demo. Then they were perfectly clean. Hopefully you used a tip I learned 40 years ago. Rather than wipe them off with your shirt or a rag which will grind the dust into the plastic and scratch them, rinse them off real well under a faucet then wipe off water gives you clean scratch free glasses. 👍
Its a joy to watch controlled demolition vs these reality house flips, renovation tv shows that go crazy with a demo hammer or reciprocating saw (mainly for production effect). Kudos on your planning and precision.
My grandson works with me. He’s 23 and never did this sort of work, he didn’t even know how to read a tape measure or change a saw blade. First time he put it on backwards lol. Now after 3 years he is my best cut man!, we do a lot of the same work you and your son do, But I leave the electrical work to the pro’s. Love your video’s, very informative! I just started watching yesterday and have already watched 6 🤠
I figured that you would have spent a few extra bucks to get the Milwaukee fuel Reciprocating saw ,the fuel is much nicer for professionals like your self the one you got is for homeowners but it will do the trick if you don't use it to that much. Thanks for sharing your videos.
When I removed wallpaper at my ex's house, I used a plastic spray bottle with water. No need to perforate, the water soaks through. If need be, give it another spray (easy enough) until it just peels off.
For the wallpaper removal: I have 2 removal tools. One is the perforater, and the other is a scraper designed specifically for wallpaper. Add fabric softner and hot water to spray bottle. I soak an area well, then use the perforater tool in a circular motion. I then spray again and let soak for a bit, but dont let it dry. I then start scraping carefully with specialty tool. I sometimes spray as I scrape if its stubborn. There is always small drywall repair after removal, but nothing major. This method has worked well for me on about a dozen removal jobs. Great channel, and great work!
Ive been a contractor/carpenter/installer for 18 years, specializing in kitchens and bathrooms. I’ve figured out most of what I feel are the best and longest lasting methods of doing things on my own. I love you guys’ videos because in almost every video there’s something that confirms that I’ve been doing things right, and it gives me a great sense of pride in what I do. The attention to detail and always “thinking ahead” sets you guys, myself, and all the other great installers apart from thousands of 2 bit hacks that go around taking peoples money. Keep killing it stud pack!!
Go get the DIABLO Steel Demon CARBIDE tooth metal blades for that hacksall, The medium metal blade I find best for cutting cast iron. Great work as always fellas.
I’m an experienced DIY and semi-pro remodeler, but because I only buy a house every so often, I talk myself out of remodeling because I get cold feet. You make this exciting, interesting and I feel empowered to try again. Thanks for everything you do!
You probably won't believe this but an old head told me years ago when removing wallpaper to use a 50/50 mix of white Vinegar and water in a spray bottle and spray the wall paper down after perforating it. Wait about 3 to 5 min. then use a putty knife to help peel off the paper. The vinegar mixture which is eco- friendly reactivates the glue in the wallpaper and it peels right off without damaging the drywall paper. afterwards use a damp sponge and the mixture to clean off any glue residue on the dry wall. I was able to remove two layers of wall paper in a 10x10 bathroom in about an 1 1/2 hours and clean the wall. the only drawback is the strong smell of the vinegar lol. Give it a Try and let me Know what you think
I have the best luck with a taping knife, hot water, fabric softener and a spray bottle. Use a green scouring pad with more hot water to scrape the glue down to the paper, otherwise the glue will texture the paint. I have a steamer and it is a pain to hold it over each section waiting for it to work on it. Plus it tends to also soften the drywall paper and when that tears, it will require skimming with compound to smooth it if you are going to finish with a smooth paint. I don't like scoring. Doesn't hep and makes it harder to take a large piece at a time off. I like to put a bunch of towels at the bottom to keep the watery glue drip from making a mess (just wring them out every now and then..
Be careful doing corners with the wallpaper steamer. You risk messing up/debonding the corner tape and having cracking down there. It took me a couple of rooms to learn that lesson. When you get to the corners just use a wet sponge and leave it for 10 minutes.
Usually showers are 2" drains. It is because of the surface area. The water can back up in a tub till the drain can handle the water. The shower doesn't have that capacity to hold water. Even in old days this was common. Just a tip.
Use the back scratcher and spray a mixture of water and fabric softener and let it sit a bit. Love the content fellas! I really appreciate the channel.
Get DIF brand enzyme in a spray bottle to break down the wallpaper adhesive. Also start at the top of wall.👍 I have done this many,many times. 🙂✌❤ [Edit] There are diff. brands. I see below someone recommended ZAP brand,the key being it is an enzyme to "Eat away" at the adhesive. 1.Perforate well 2.Apply enzyme product 3. Allow enzyme to work 4.Repeat as necessary during removal. Hopefully the desired outcome will be very little to zero steamer usage. Note: There are different types of adhesives esp. from the past where one method may not work over the other much like your test video on pvc pipe separation. One may work on one layer or wall and not on the other. This advice has always been my experience. I learned from my friend who I also worked for who owns a carpet,paint wallpapering store/installation business here in Michigan. Good luck fellas,dig your content.
I just steam removed wallpaper from six rooms. Steam is the way to go. Don't use that spikey roller. It damages the drywall. Steaming is time consuming, but not hard. Be patient and let the steam work. Inevitably, first layer of drywall paper WILL tear off in places. I used Zinsser B-I-N shellac to seal those tears (GARDZ is another option but my store didn't have it), then skim coated with mud (where needed), primed and roller painted. No texturing other than the 3/8" nap roller. I would love to see your process and final result. PATIENCE is the key!! BTW - the 16 minute monologue was VERY helpful. True teaching. But man, it's also about having the right tools!!
Many years ago I had access to a eight gallon water tank propane heated steamer . The propane burner supplied at least 40,000 BTU to the water tank and the steam output was HUGE . It could strip off 4-5 layers easily and a coat of paint added in did not slow it down much In a 16 roll bedroom I could take down , and steam clean all the paste residue , in less than 2 Hrs. Can't find one anymore , way to intense . (the 3/4" steam feed line could scald if it touched your arm )
I like how you guys solicit a like at the end of the video. I’ve been noticing more and more TH-camrs asking for the like at the beginning of the video, which makes no sense to me. You guys definitely earned my like button smash on this one. Keep up the good work!
Best removal for wallpaper... Dollar store fabric softener in a spray bottle directly into the paper no dilution. Soaks through and dissolves the glue them it comes right off no damage at all. Smells nice for weeks too..
Yikes, My wife removed three bedrooms of real paper wall paper before they had the fabric types...( 40 years ago in our duplex. I wished we had the steamer! (The wall were real plaster and lath construction.) We are happy to "just paint". I love your insight in the layout tips for the shower drain. Upgrading the baths for our elderly is an important remodel to keep the elderly in their homes. I wished we could have done this for my Dad (RIP).
Tip on minimizing the dust from chipping. Wet a towel folded in fours and ram the chipper through middle so towel hangs on. I do this when removing 12x12 floor drains with a 65lb Bosch.
Spray on wallpaper remover enzyme will help break down the adhesive before you put the steam to it. Perforate the paper with your " back scratcher" first to give the enzyme access to the adhesive. Have fun...
I love watching you guys you're great. Pro tip from a union trained tile layer, we set our slope from the shortest distance to the drain not the longest. Remember if there's any chance you're going to be inspected for handicap 1/4" per foot (2%) max. at least that's the code here in California. Great job guys!
No quick way when sizing wasn't used under wallpaper. When you tear into drywall and drywall paper trying to remove wallpaper ... you need to prime paint with oil base primer. Then patch drywall holes with a quick setting type Durabond mix. You then probably need to smooth over walls that had wallpaper removed using a multipurpose drywall compound. Removing wallpaper may be quicker if you get lucky not damaging drywall or drywall paper underneath the wallpaper. Then oil base prime paint over repaired area. After it's said an done, probably same time between removing wallpaper and patching ... compared to ... removing drywall. Thanks for all the vids
I had that same kind of drain. Showers was something new to me. I looked everywhere to see if there was any videos of showers with that kind of pipe. Trial and error got me through it, and now id like to take on more shower projects in the furture. Great videos!
It's been some years but I believe the product name is DAP... Blue stuff in a spray bottle.... perforate then spray with "dap" let it set for a few seconds.... then it peels right of... no time at all!
Start steamer off at the top , water runs down and starts to soften below the area you are working. Move the steam pad to another spot on the wall whilst you peel the loose stuff that way its gets another head start. Maybe being a builder in England we see lots of multiple layers of wall paper, and often we get woodchip paper from the 70s/ 80s which you paint over so normally load of paint layers as well.
Love the work and the back and forth between father and son. I have been remodeling bathrooms,kitchens etc since 1986 so I have seen a lot of different conditions. One huge mistake I made many years ago was not removing the cast iron P-trap in the shower as part of the remodel. I did a fantastic tile job and customer kept calling me back as shower that she told me originally was slow draining was not improved with the remodel. I believed that I had installed either the pan or drain incorrectly but it was clogged with rust and hair from p-trap. I bit the bullet and ripped out pan to expose p-trap after plumbing company was paid to put camera in drain and it showed almost no water was able to go down drain due to 60 years of rust/hairsoap scum, etc. I had actually increased the water pressure with all new pipes, valves,etc and this magnified the problem. I cut p-trap about 12 inches from trap and reamed out pipe and jetted with hose. I then connected a new 2 inch PVC trap and connected with rubber boot and then rebuilt pan and retiled etc making sure to keep weep holes in drain open. This is the only pan I have ever had a call back on as from this point forward I always removed the cast iron trap and always left this out so the customer could see that I was looking out for them. They were always amazed how nasty this pipe was. Please make this part of your scope as your attention to detail is excellent! Hope his helps. Keep up the great work!!!!
Awesome stuff thx Frank! I'm always cautious when it comes to cast iron. The p-trap in this shower is 2 feet deep and it is in the concrete footing. Replacing it is not in the scope or budget. I realize it's much cheaper now than doing it later but we tested it with full flow garden hose and it handled all that water just fine.
Hey man, the idea is to perforate a whole strip floor to ceiling, then steam the whole strip, using big sloooow motion (wax on, wax off). Score it with your utility knife on the edges, then the whole damn strip comes off in one piece. Save you some time! Then repair the drywall in spots if needed (its never much) Also, holding the steam gun in one place for too long can cause the drywall to become soggy/damaged, so its better to move it slowly up and down then take the whole strip off in one go.
Just get some laundry detergent or fabric softener and put it in a pump sprayer. Spray the walls and let it soak for 5 minutes. Scrapes right off cleanly. Will definitely save you some headache
I usually cut as deep as I can with an angle grinder to have square straight cuts when I use the jack hammer. Makes putting back the concrete easy. I drill holes in the sides the either use remesh or rebar in the holes for added support. But maybe I’m wrong for doing it that way. I’ve only had to redo maybe 10 drains that way. Have a wonderful weekend
Use a prickly roller over the wall paper, then apply Dove dish detergent ixed with warm water from a bucket with a sponge to the wall paper. Theñ use the steam and scraper.
A number of years ago I was getting a lot of jobs adding in laminate flooring. I finally got tired of hand sawing the door jambs to fit the flooring underneath, so jumped in and bought a power jamb saw. Have not gotten a single flooring job since, so it is still in the box. I don't even know if it runs.
I've got a wallpaper steamer and it's so easy to use, it's a much smaller size one than yours but the same size of paddles, get yourself a plastic wallpaper scraping tool, it doesn't dig into the drywall, just hold the steamer paddle on the wall and follow behind with the plastic scraper, you guy's won't need a wet sponge or anything else 😉 and by the way you guy's are awesome 😉
The Bosch is a great tool. I’ve used mine for chipping, hammering and even footings in rocky terrain when a digging bar was hell. I’ve found the use of the spiked roller beneficial before applying steam for paper removal. The trick is to go light with the roller to avoid skimming walls completely. Then hit it with steam or a removal solution to break down the glue. Obviously, this varies per conditions. Also, the cast flange at the shower pan can be another job for your Bosch hammer, in place of the cold chisel. Anyway, looks like another typical day in the business!
If you’re working alone, tape your vacuum hose to the end of your chisel bit with a little bit of clearance for the bit as well. This will keep your dust in check!
Really nice touch Caleb. Never thought of that, great idea. I usually cut about 2 inches into the concrete before chiseling. So taping an extension to the top of the saw would work very well. Might save time cleaning all that dust. Most of the time I set up a tent directing the dust to a fan that blows all the dust out a door or window. This idea should cut down on the dust. I tried the water method, but the mess is worse then the dust. Thanks again.
@@gotshun Thanks for sharing! There is also shrouds you can attach but those are often expensive. I work with a floor coating company and we have done a bit of over head repair work. This gets really dusty, even with safety glasses and a face shield on. This tip has spared me the hassle of fine silica in the eyes lol. You can also tape it a bit further back if the debris is getting clogged in the hose entrance
Fabric softener watered down. Sprayed on the wallpaper, let it sit for a bit, then use your steamer. I took down a border around the ceiling with just water and fabric softener. Peeled off without peeling paint. Of course it probably wasn’t 50 years + old and probably just pre-pasted border paper
I removed wall paper from ~1983 that, I think was directly on the drywall. I used a wall paper piercing rolling tool. I sprayed and sponged vinegar mixed in water on the paper and kept it wet for about an hour. Peeled off pretty well. Had to sand the walls lightly after.
I totally agree with moving the drain. It’s a lot of work but well worth it in the long run. The linear drains by the wall always make me nervous. Drain in the center way better.
You and your son have an amazing channel. I've been watching for awhile and I have to say I see the cross over where your son's doing the video and dad's doing the work/manual labour. That said, you're together and it's beautiful. It's pretty special that you're able to build this content together and share. I'm both genuinely envious and appreciative having lost my father. You two represent a very special bond and thank you for taking the time and care to bring it to others. While your son doesn't do as much of the physical labour he does a heck of a great job managing and putting the content together (zero disrespect, you're still doing more then me lol). Thanks again gents, great job!
I don't know what quality your drywall is in your country, but here in the UK I just had a job removing wallpaper that was laid directly onto plasterboard and it was fairly simple and no damage. All I did was to tear off as much of the wallpaper as I could dry, then the stubborn backing paper was easily removed by wetting with a spray bottle and using a scraper. Minimal damage and the boards dried out just fine, they are designed to get some moisture from plasters and filler, so don't worry too much about moisture.
Pro tip on wallpaper removal- always start at the top of the walls and work your way down. As you start getting pieces off the water will run down the wall and into all the torn areas saturating the paper towards the bottom. I have removed a lot of paper and this seems to work best. Also let the water do the work- if your pulling little scraps and spending lots of time on little areas- just keep wetting it down until it wants to fall off. Good luck!
Paul, Jordan, Absolutely THE BEST channel in the entire world of its kind! Period! You guys are Great! Everything you do that makes this channel what it is is fantastic! Thank you and God Bless!
We had an addition with a bath and shower constructed many years ago. After several years we started to smell mildew. The contractor came back and "fixed" the "leak". The smell continued and over the next several years we noticed signs of mildew in the bath and creeping outside the door into the hardwood floor. I did some aggressive inspection and found mold and mildew in the walls and floor. I demoed the shower stall and about 1/3 the floor and walls. Turned out the tile guy filled the floor drain weep holes with quickset. I recall the tile guy and the contractor were arguing while the tile guy was doing the floor of the shower. I think he took his anger out on me. I re-did the bath with help of a friend and a plumber , electrician and swanstone installer. (added a steam bath unit to shower stall) Came out fine. A few years latter saw mushrooms growing outside on window trim. Turned out the redwood siding about a 20' x 20' section and some framing were also rotten from the leak. All because the tile guy plugged the weep holes. I did become a much better DIYer. Shower has been fine.
Used a steamer years ago, it takes some time, but my tip is to be careful about gouging the drywall paper and/or plaster finish, other than that, I wound up having to wash the walls with TSP and water to remove the old wall paper glue residue, then rinse the walls and let dry, then primed and painted. Use a sponge mop to wash and rinse the the walls ! Have fun ! Great video stud pack !
I've wallpapered a lot and have removed a lot of it too. The best way that I have found to remove it is to put hair conditioner with warm water into a garden sprayer and spray it onto the wall. Let it set a couple of minutes and it'll come right off. It worked better for me than using a steamer. I used one of those tools with teeth that you use to puncture the wallpaper first.
I also have that Milwaukee one hand reciprocating saw, except with the M18 battery. Best thing in the world if you work with PVC plumbing (which I do A LOT OF AS A MASTER SWIMMING POOL REPAIR TECH most of the year).
Wagener makes a good steamer! I used one on a 80s remodel. Biggest thing is to get some penetrations in the paper! It is time consuming but works well! Also get some fans in there to dry the walls as quickly as you can. I ended up skim coating areas where the drywall paper was roughed up.
When I had to take the wall paper down out of my kitchen the thing that made it a lot easier with one of those was work top to bottom with the steamer, and then remove a strip bottom to top. I also used a plastic paint scrapper, but I didn't have drywall underneath.
My dad once bought a Hilti TE35 electric hammer drill. I love this device and highly recommend it. Best money spent even though we do not use it professionally every day. I believe that this is one of the few tools in the home that should be of the best quality. My advice to you is to lubricate your tools with a special lubricant before mounting them in the head. It will significantly extend the life of the tool.
My entire house had wallpaper. It did not come off that easily with steam. You are lucky to have that paper peel that easily. Using steamer and scraper resulted in lots of gouges and had to skim coat the entire room in most of the rooms. I gave up and put 1/4" drywall over the wallpaper in small rooms. Yeah, mudding sucks, but a nice new sheet of drywall was so much easier than trying to skim coat the entire bathroom for me.
DIF water paper removal solution is faster ( not the gel), fill up a garden sprayer and spray all the walls after it is perforated. Then just scrap off the wallpaper with a 4 inch razor scraper or a 6 inch taping knife. After clean off all the paste from the wall you might have to do a skim coat to make it smooth.
Great video! Work top to bottom, use fabric softener and try to get the room warm and moisture level up with hot water applied. Sometimes it's easier to start new though. Will be interesting to watch that video!
I don’t have a ton of experience with this, but I had to do the same thing on a remodel last September/October. Two layers. I couldn’t come up with a better way than the way you guys are doing it. I steamed and steamed…and steamed. And it all came off pretty well. In the areas where the paper from the back of the wallpaper remains on the wall, steam it again, and that stuff will nearly disintegrate on the second pass, prettt quickly. It becomes somewhat slimy and you can just take a putty knife and scrape off big wet steamy sections at a time. It doesn’t take near as much time holding it on for that stuff as it does the outer wallpaper itself. Good luck. These types of things are just such a slowwww process. In closing, everyone….stop using wallpaper! Haha.
Wallpaper is 2 layers. The printed surface then the backer. Most of the time you can get those two layers to separate, then you can use the sprayer/time/steam/scraper to remove the remaining paper. Sometimes it will wipe right off the walls just by spraying them down and letting the paper soak up the water, releasing the glue. Once you get the paper off, wipe down the wall, but let it dry, then smooth out the wall by sanding.
@21:20 I'm thinking a little Tap Magic oil will greatly improve the cutting. If it helps with drilling, it would help with cutting (I'm thinking). I've used Tap Magic but even Todd @ Project Farms rated it #1.
I love the atomic DeWalt version of the reciprocating saw. Has gotten me out of a lot of tight situations. You guys are great with your analysis, explanation, and workmanship. Much success to you!
Great video. Just a thought from my experience. When removing wallpaper, there is a happy median of saturation. If too saturated, and using a putty knife, you run the risk of grabbing the drywall facing. That’s going to require mudding to fix. If not enough, your paper won’t pull up the glue.
I have used the steamer to remove wallpaper before and pre wetting the paper sounds like a good idea, however it will not work with foil or vinyl wallpaper. Unfortunately I was removing foil paper from the 70's so it just took a little longer. Also use the "backscratcher" but try not to damage the plaster too much.
About 50 years ago, I made a scorer by driving a row of nails at an angle through a board to form a crude comb. Dragging the nails over the wall paper cut the top layer of paper. I then used a bug sprayer to soak the paper, which worked better than the steamer. I ought to have watched this video before doing the job, to pick up the hint about wetting the paper, followed by steaming.
Thank you very much for your videos. I really like how you work as a team. It has helped me a lot to make my own shower. Thank you and God 🙏 bless you always.
That method works well. Ive tried every other method you mentioned too. But, unfortunately it always seems you have some sort of drywall work to do. So i normally poke it or scratch it up real good and soak it with water and then remove it all and give all the walls a tight skim after everythings dried and the torn papers been sanded and SEALED as well as any large defects. Always end up with a lvl 5. Costumers always appreciate all the extra work we take to get a perfect finish
I’m in the middle of a bathroom remodel right now. Had to remove 2 layers of wallpaper. It was bonded very well. I found out after using a steamer to remove it all that you can skim coat drywall mud right over top of old wallpaper ONLY IF it’s bonded well. Might try it next time
I had to chip out a large area of concrete. I used my De Walt 1 5/8 rotary hammer. First I drilled some holes in it and then used the spiral bit and chisel bit to break it up even more. Made a tough job a bit easier. Seems like the drilling is a bit faster then the chipping.
Hey guys. Love the videos. I would suggest using the perforator then with a small pump sprayer filled with DIF and hot water to spray the wallpaper. It’s an enzyme based product which helps soften the wallpaper glue for removal. A little bit in a squirt bottle and a short handle 6” razor scraper will help with tougher areas and small pieces.
I find it totally fascinating to do work on old stuff, Its very cool to do work on something that someone from 30-40-50+ years ago once handled.. If you can do a flash back in your mind and imagine the guy who worked on things prior.. who is probably dead by now.. I love old stuff
Just love your videos. I look forward to every one. I especially like the fact that you guys keep it real and are not pressured to "polish" the final result..
Another great video! I don't envy you this job at all; you're earning every cent on this job. If you get some box fans, put them on low, and put cheap furnace filters (~20"x20") on the intake side of the fans, it'll clean up a lot of that dust floating around in the air... obviously still use your respirator, but it's a big help to me in past projects. (Jordan... or whomever the camera guy is... could also mist the hole with plain water every so often to help keep it down too. I've used a vac on them, but the dust fills up the filters pretty fast & they're not as cheap as furnace filters)
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Hearing dad say "alright, good work today, love you, bye" was the most heart warming part of this video lol. Love when family can work together, and love when parents remind their kids that they love them. Class act, both of you fellas!
Yeah, that was cool👊
Went to the comments to say this knowing it had been said. Reminds me of my Dad. Love it. Also the fact that Jordan left it in. Got me smirkin but props to him.
I worked with my dad many times,it never ended well , for me
yea man seriously
Agreed. It's clear to me that Paul is an excellent communicator as Jordan has the same skills. Not the type of angry misunderstanding dialogue most of us experience. These guys model healthy relationship.
I gotta say, I started watching StudPack improve my DIY game. I keep watching because of your awesome personalities. The awesome relationship you guys have is a bonus. Thanks for not being afraid to share it. Hearing Paul say "good job today bud. I love you." Puts a lump in my throat. Paul reminds me a lot of my dad, even looks like him. We don't see each other much anymore though. Treasure what you have guys.
Man I could listen to Paul talk for hours about the structure of homes, plumbing, electrical, whatever. Thanks for giving him the space to share his thoughts.
Had to do a washing machine drain overhaul about 12 years ago. No big box store had Oakem, only one older plumber knew what it was. Luckily my dad was a Jack of all trades and he had kept his lead melting pot, lead and enough Oakem for me to do the repair. I remembered how to do it from watching him as a young adolescent when he modified the plumbing under my childhood home, making a fully enclosed basement with numerous floor utility type drains, bathroom sewerage and sewerage rerouting. My dad was an amazingly intelligent fellow to have been able to finish the 4th grade due to having to leave East Central Miss and go to Oregon and Washington State to pick fruit and vegetables to send most of his pay back to his mom and younger brothers for their support. Miss him dearly.
Paul, you're really a great teacher, anticipating questions, giving background, alternative ways and their pros and cons and a really great "host" with your intros and outros. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Tip from a weekend warrior, when you have removed all the wallpaper, give the walls a coat of shellac. That will seal the drywall facing and give a good surface for priming.
One of my favorite parts of Stud Pack is your willingness to tackle any project and being 100% honest and real. You might be professionals, but your videos are so helpful that any DiY'er can follow the logic and procedures. Very informative, educational, and entertaining. Thanks Stud Pack!
Hey Jordan it's awesome you get to work with your pops everyday doing your own work I'm 29 lost my dad in 08 when I was 16 so enjoy every day even the rough ones off camera 😆
Your strategy for soaking the wallpaper with a sprayer first is what you want.
Method of action:
1.Perforate really well all around
2.Soak with a warm water/fabric softener and let sit overnight.
3. Next day, hit with a quick once over with the perforator again and start steaming.
Should pull off in pretty large sections. The fabric softener the day before is key. Use a 1:4 ratio of hot water to softener.
And after that, let it dry thoroughly. And then prime it with oil. Prime well, maybe twice. Then do your sheet rock repair
man, I'm saving this one to my tips and tricks bag 👍🏻
What is a softener. It's meibe differently called in my country
@@ivpu2465 fabric softener is something that gets added to the rinse cycle of a clothes washing machine to keep the fabric smelling good and to help the fabric. Look up Downey fabric softener.
@@AndrewSilk thanks for the explanation 👍
Planning out the shower drain issue shows your experience. Non pros like me would have gone ahead and started the floor tiling on the old drain....before realizing too late that it would not work! That's why pros are paid the money they charge.
Yip you're paying for there experience and the amount of studying they've done over the years. Always leave a job that you THINK you can do to professionals like the stud pack 💪
Getting it wrong and knowing is part of being a pro, 100% of the time you mess up you learn...
Well most people... I've learned hands on over 30years everything on a house, I've even built a earth home out of sand bags and used tires, I'm on my second build now, I can only say try it and fail, so you learn... Because really ain't that the definition of life? I mean everyone thinks they know life and death, lol I don't think so...
IDK I see both ways, I'll hire a pro in something I don't know or can't figure out, but best believe I'm watching and taking notes... Lol
for the steamer, i use it directly on the paper
just don't leave it on for too long as it then can blow out the plaster, just enough to wet the paper, and start at the top so the water drips down, doing it from the bottom means more water on the lower parts which increases the risk of the plaster being saturated and "melting"
Try a carbide tipped metal blade for the cast iron pipe. Made a world of difference when I switched to them, especially on blade eaters like cast iron.
Fellas I got a story about the $600 Bosch hammer. I started demo on a 2nd floor 1920's bathroom for a customer of mine last week. It looked almost identical to yalls project (2" mortar on all walls), BUT the floor had a 4" slab... on the second floor. The shower drain ran THRU this slab, not between floor joists. I started busting it up and I found WATER LINES in the slab, again, not in between floor joists, on top of them. On top of all that, all the joists were hand chiseled into a triangle shape with one-by material in between each joist to hold up the slab. It was the weirdest work I've ever seen. I've got pictures if you want to see them. That job would have been impossible without the Bosch hammer drill you guys recommended.
Keep up the good work!
@@eggsoups yep no cracks! Super strange. I had only renovated 60's houses and newer up until this week, what a fun learning experience it was 🤣
Recently found your channel. I’ve been a carpenter/contractor for 42 years and in the trades for 50 years. (Still going strong.....I’m 72....swamped with work and opportunity. ) Frequently, I will do electrical/plumbing mods related to kitchen/bath remodels. Given all my years of experience, I have learned from you. Your descriptions/teaching/demonstrations are excellent, Paul. Your general personality vibe, attitude and lack of ego are cherries on the top. Our ethics are the same.....concern for quality and the customers satisfaction. We would get along. Happy Hollidays, Paul and thanks for taking your time to share your wisdom. You folks new to the trades.....pay attention to this guy. Priceless info.and it’s dead accurate. You won’t learn this at community college. Dave Heitman dba Dave The Carpenter in Omaha
Use a large straight blade knock down knife to separate the paper from the dry wall after its been moistened with hot water on a sponge, the roller spikes help for the hot water to get under the paper and free up the bond. A heat gun will work well too, just keep it moving so it doesn't start to burn the paper. From a Stud Pack Crew member.
When I removed wallpaper, I tried it all..the chemicals made just for that, soapy water, hot water - even a steamer. What I always went back to was, DOWNEY fabric softener. I would peel or perf near the top, then wet the paper with DOWNEY in warm water. As you mentioned- wet down in front of that steamer-but adding Downey sure helped. (Half the time I could usually skip dragging out my steamer)I think the softening agents just helped plus held the wetness to the paper longer. It helps-A LOT! Plus the smell is great!
Will definitely try that thx Tammy 👊👍
Perforating is key!
your correct about the downey holding the moisture in place. It reduces surface tension and referred to as a surfactant.
@@jasonlunn8530 I was just thinking: “must be akin to a surfactant at that point”
@@StudPack You can use thin painters plastic to cover the wall once perforated and the liquid is applied. The plastic keeps the moisture in. I used special wallpaper remover and this handheld perforator thing when I removed mine. Was VERY easy.
When Paul went into the sloping info, I definitely listened and learned a lot. The pebble flooring is something I want to use in one of my future bathroom remodels; so I hope to see how they progress on that. I would have never thought to move the drain placement to accommodate the sloping and would have gone with a different tile; but now I feel I can follow suit and use the knowledge to get it done.
Noticed how dusty your safety glasses got during concrete demo. Then they were perfectly clean. Hopefully you used a tip I learned 40 years ago. Rather than wipe them off with your shirt or a rag which will grind the dust into the plastic and scratch them, rinse them off real well under a faucet then wipe off water gives you clean scratch free glasses. 👍
P
Its a joy to watch controlled demolition vs these reality house flips, renovation tv shows that go crazy with a demo hammer or reciprocating saw (mainly for production effect). Kudos on your planning and precision.
You guys do great work!! Keep them videos coming!! Hello from Maine
My grandson works with me. He’s 23 and never did this sort of work, he didn’t even know how to read a tape measure or change a saw blade. First time he put it on backwards lol. Now after 3 years he is my best cut man!, we do a lot of the same work you and your son do, But I leave the electrical work to the pro’s. Love your video’s, very informative! I just started watching yesterday and have already watched 6 🤠
I figured that you would have spent a few extra bucks to get the Milwaukee fuel Reciprocating saw ,the fuel is much nicer for professionals like your self the one you got is for homeowners but it will do the trick if you don't use it to that much.
Thanks for sharing your videos.
When I removed wallpaper at my ex's house, I used a plastic spray bottle with water. No need to perforate, the water soaks through. If need be, give it another spray (easy enough) until it just peels off.
For the wallpaper removal: I have 2 removal tools. One is the perforater, and the other is a scraper designed specifically for wallpaper. Add fabric softner and hot water to spray bottle. I soak an area well, then use the perforater tool in a circular motion. I then spray again and let soak for a bit, but dont let it dry. I then start scraping carefully with specialty tool. I sometimes spray as I scrape if its stubborn. There is always small drywall repair after removal, but nothing major. This method has worked well for me on about a dozen removal jobs. Great channel, and great work!
Ive been a contractor/carpenter/installer for 18 years, specializing in kitchens and bathrooms. I’ve figured out most of what I feel are the best and longest lasting methods of doing things on my own. I love you guys’ videos because in almost every video there’s something that confirms that I’ve been doing things right, and it gives me a great sense of pride in what I do. The attention to detail and always “thinking ahead” sets you guys, myself, and all the other great installers apart from thousands of 2 bit hacks that go around taking peoples money. Keep killing it stud pack!!
Go get the DIABLO Steel Demon CARBIDE tooth metal blades for that hacksall,
The medium metal blade I find best for cutting cast iron.
Great work as always fellas.
I’m an experienced DIY and semi-pro remodeler, but because I only buy a house every so often, I talk myself out of remodeling because I get cold feet. You make this exciting, interesting and I feel empowered to try again. Thanks for everything you do!
You probably won't believe this but an old head told me years ago when removing wallpaper to use a 50/50 mix of white Vinegar and water in a spray bottle and spray the wall paper down after perforating it. Wait about 3 to 5 min. then use a putty knife to help peel off the paper. The vinegar mixture which is eco- friendly reactivates the glue in the wallpaper and it peels right off without damaging the drywall paper. afterwards use a damp sponge and the mixture to clean off any glue residue on the dry wall. I was able to remove two layers of wall paper in a 10x10 bathroom in about an 1 1/2 hours and clean the wall. the only drawback is the strong smell of the vinegar lol. Give it a Try and let me Know what you think
I have the best luck with a taping knife, hot water, fabric softener and a spray bottle. Use a green scouring pad with more hot water to scrape the glue down to the paper, otherwise the glue will texture the paint. I have a steamer and it is a pain to hold it over each section waiting for it to work on it. Plus it tends to also soften the drywall paper and when that tears, it will require skimming with compound to smooth it if you are going to finish with a smooth paint. I don't like scoring. Doesn't hep and makes it harder to take a large piece at a time off. I like to put a bunch of towels at the bottom to keep the watery glue drip from making a mess (just wring them out every now and then..
Be careful doing corners with the wallpaper steamer. You risk messing up/debonding the corner tape and having cracking down there. It took me a couple of rooms to learn that lesson. When you get to the corners just use a wet sponge and leave it for 10 minutes.
Usually showers are 2" drains. It is because of the surface area. The water can back up in a tub till the drain can handle the water. The shower doesn't have that capacity to hold water. Even in old days this was common. Just a tip.
Use the back scratcher and spray a mixture of water and fabric softener and let it sit a bit. Love the content fellas! I really appreciate the channel.
Get DIF brand enzyme in a spray bottle to break down the wallpaper adhesive.
Also start at the top of wall.👍
I have done this many,many times.
🙂✌❤
[Edit]
There are diff. brands. I see below someone recommended ZAP brand,the key being it is an enzyme to "Eat away" at the adhesive.
1.Perforate well
2.Apply enzyme product
3. Allow enzyme to work
4.Repeat as necessary during removal.
Hopefully the desired outcome will be very little to zero steamer usage.
Note: There are different types of adhesives esp. from the past where one method may not work over the other much like your test video on pvc pipe separation. One may work on one layer or wall and not on the other.
This advice has always been my experience. I learned from my friend who I also worked for who owns a carpet,paint wallpapering store/installation business here in Michigan.
Good luck fellas,dig your content.
I just steam removed wallpaper from six rooms. Steam is the way to go. Don't use that spikey roller. It damages the drywall. Steaming is time consuming, but not hard. Be patient and let the steam work. Inevitably, first layer of drywall paper WILL tear off in places. I used Zinsser B-I-N shellac to seal those tears (GARDZ is another option but my store didn't have it), then skim coated with mud (where needed), primed and roller painted. No texturing other than the 3/8" nap roller. I would love to see your process and final result. PATIENCE is the key!!
BTW - the 16 minute monologue was VERY helpful. True teaching. But man, it's also about having the right tools!!
Many years ago I had access to a eight gallon water tank propane heated steamer . The propane burner supplied at least 40,000 BTU to the water tank and the steam output was HUGE .
It could strip off 4-5 layers easily and a coat of paint added in did not slow it down much
In a 16 roll bedroom I could take down , and steam clean all the paste residue , in less than 2 Hrs.
Can't find one anymore , way to intense . (the 3/4" steam feed line could scald if it touched your arm )
I like how you guys solicit a like at the end of the video. I’ve been noticing more and more TH-camrs asking for the like at the beginning of the video, which makes no sense to me.
You guys definitely earned my like button smash on this one. Keep up the good work!
Best removal for wallpaper... Dollar store fabric softener in a spray bottle directly into the paper no dilution. Soaks through and dissolves the glue them it comes right off no damage at all. Smells nice for weeks too..
Yikes, My wife removed three bedrooms of real paper wall paper before they had the fabric types...( 40 years ago in our duplex.
I wished we had the steamer! (The wall were real plaster and lath construction.) We are happy to "just paint". I love your insight in the layout tips for the shower drain. Upgrading the baths for our elderly is an important remodel to keep the elderly in their homes. I wished we could have done this for my Dad (RIP).
Tip on minimizing the dust from chipping. Wet a towel folded in fours and ram the chipper through middle so towel hangs on. I do this when removing 12x12 floor drains with a 65lb Bosch.
Spray on wallpaper remover enzyme will help break down the adhesive before you put the steam to it. Perforate the paper with your " back scratcher" first to give the enzyme access to the adhesive. Have fun...
Hackzall is great, but the fuel version of their M12 bandsaw is where it's at. Thing is a beast.
I love watching you guys you're great. Pro tip from a union trained tile layer, we set our slope from the shortest distance to the drain not the longest. Remember if there's any chance you're going to be inspected for handicap 1/4" per foot (2%) max. at least that's the code here in California. Great job guys!
No quick way when sizing wasn't used under wallpaper.
When you tear into drywall and drywall paper trying to remove wallpaper ... you need to prime paint with oil base primer.
Then patch drywall holes with a quick setting type Durabond mix.
You then probably need to smooth over walls that had wallpaper removed using a multipurpose drywall compound.
Removing wallpaper may be quicker if you get lucky not damaging drywall or drywall paper underneath the wallpaper.
Then oil base prime paint over repaired area.
After it's said an done, probably same time between removing wallpaper and patching ... compared to ... removing drywall.
Thanks for all the vids
I had that same kind of drain. Showers was something new to me. I looked everywhere to see if there was any videos of showers with that kind of pipe. Trial and error got me through it, and now id like to take on more shower projects in the furture. Great videos!
It's been some years but I believe the product name is DAP... Blue stuff in a spray bottle.... perforate then spray with "dap" let it set for a few seconds.... then it peels right of... no time at all!
Start steamer off at the top , water runs down and starts to soften below the area you are working.
Move the steam pad to another spot on the wall whilst you peel the loose stuff that way its gets another head start.
Maybe being a builder in England we see lots of multiple layers of wall paper, and often we get woodchip paper from the 70s/ 80s which you paint over so normally load of paint layers as well.
Love the work and the back and forth between father and son. I have been remodeling bathrooms,kitchens etc since 1986 so I have seen a lot of different conditions. One huge mistake I made many years ago was not removing the cast iron P-trap in the shower as part of the remodel. I did a fantastic tile job and customer kept calling me back as shower that she told me originally was slow draining was not improved with the remodel. I believed that I had installed either the pan or drain incorrectly but it was clogged with rust and hair from p-trap. I bit the bullet and ripped out pan to expose p-trap after plumbing company was paid to put camera in drain and it showed almost no water was able to go down drain due to 60 years of rust/hairsoap scum, etc. I had actually increased the water pressure with all new pipes, valves,etc and this magnified the problem. I cut p-trap about 12 inches from trap and reamed out pipe and jetted with hose. I then connected a new 2 inch PVC trap and connected with rubber boot and then rebuilt pan and retiled etc making sure to keep weep holes in drain open. This is the only pan I have ever had a call back on as from this point forward I always removed the cast iron trap and always left this out so the customer could see that I was looking out for them. They were always amazed how nasty this pipe was. Please make this part of your scope as your attention to detail is excellent! Hope his helps. Keep up the great work!!!!
Awesome stuff thx Frank! I'm always cautious when it comes to cast iron. The p-trap in this shower is 2 feet deep and it is in the concrete footing. Replacing it is not in the scope or budget. I realize it's much cheaper now than doing it later but we tested it with full flow garden hose and it handled all that water just fine.
Hey man, the idea is to perforate a whole strip floor to ceiling, then steam the whole strip, using big sloooow motion (wax on, wax off). Score it with your utility knife on the edges, then the whole damn strip comes off in one piece. Save you some time! Then repair the drywall in spots if needed (its never much)
Also, holding the steam gun in one place for too long can cause the drywall to become soggy/damaged, so its better to move it slowly up and down then take the whole strip off in one go.
I think if I ever have to remove wall paper, I just might burn the whole house down to avoid it. 😂
🤣😂👍
This is the only real answer and solution to this particular problem
Just get some laundry detergent or fabric softener and put it in a pump sprayer. Spray the walls and let it soak for 5 minutes. Scrapes right off cleanly. Will definitely save you some headache
That should remove it
I had the dubious/painful job having to remove 2 layers of wall paper, with a coat of paint on each. 😵No fun at all.
I usually cut as deep as I can with an angle grinder to have square straight cuts when I use the jack hammer. Makes putting back the concrete easy. I drill holes in the sides the either use remesh or rebar in the holes for added support. But maybe I’m wrong for doing it that way. I’ve only had to redo maybe 10 drains that way. Have a wonderful weekend
I usually score the concrete also but I wanted to see how well my new Bosch worked without that step 👍
@@StudPack that’s a very good reason. I have an old one so it’s easier for me to use the grinder first.
Good that you mention metric, so I can envision the sizes way better. 😊 Thanks! 🇩🇪 You have lots of experiences.
I love how thoroughly you explain things! I love this channel! You guys are the best! ❤❤❤
Use a prickly roller over the wall paper, then apply Dove dish detergent ixed with warm water from a bucket with a sponge to the wall paper. Theñ use the steam and scraper.
A new tool!!! Yippee
Most of my tools were purchased for a specific need at the time. Then I have it for the next job.
Same with me. Sometimes that new tool is only used for one thing, and likely won't get used again. But I like tools, so that's alright.
A number of years ago I was getting a lot of jobs adding in laminate flooring. I finally got tired of hand sawing the door jambs to fit the flooring underneath, so jumped in and bought a power jamb saw. Have not gotten a single flooring job since, so it is still in the box. I don't even know if it runs.
@@dallasarnold8615 Murphy's Law...gets a person every time!
I've got a wallpaper steamer and it's so easy to use, it's a much smaller size one than yours but the same size of paddles, get yourself a plastic wallpaper scraping tool, it doesn't dig into the drywall, just hold the steamer paddle on the wall and follow behind with the plastic scraper, you guy's won't need a wet sponge or anything else 😉 and by the way you guy's are awesome 😉
The Bosch is a great tool. I’ve used mine for chipping, hammering and even footings in rocky terrain when a digging bar was hell. I’ve found the use of the spiked roller beneficial before applying steam for paper removal. The trick is to go light with the roller to avoid skimming walls completely. Then hit it with steam or a removal solution to break down the glue. Obviously, this varies per conditions. Also, the cast flange at the shower pan can be another job for your Bosch hammer, in place of the cold chisel. Anyway, looks like another typical day in the business!
Moving another drain! ☺ seems like a theme! thanks for a great, clear explanation about shower floors!
If you’re working alone, tape your vacuum hose to the end of your chisel bit with a little bit of clearance for the bit as well. This will keep your dust in check!
Really nice touch Caleb. Never thought of that, great idea. I usually cut about 2 inches into the concrete before chiseling. So taping an extension to the top of the saw would work very well. Might save time cleaning all that dust. Most of the time I set up a tent directing the dust to a fan that blows all the dust out a door or window. This idea should cut down on the dust. I tried the water method, but the mess is worse then the dust. Thanks again.
@@gotshun Thanks for sharing! There is also shrouds you can attach but those are often expensive. I work with a floor coating company and we have done a bit of over head repair work. This gets really dusty, even with safety glasses and a face shield on. This tip has spared me the hassle of fine silica in the eyes lol.
You can also tape it a bit further back if the debris is getting clogged in the hose entrance
Fabric softener watered down. Sprayed on the wallpaper, let it sit for a bit, then use your steamer. I took down a border around the ceiling with just water and fabric softener. Peeled off without peeling paint. Of course it probably wasn’t 50 years + old and probably just pre-pasted border paper
I removed wall paper from ~1983 that, I think was directly on the drywall. I used a wall paper piercing rolling tool. I sprayed and sponged vinegar mixed in water on the paper and kept it wet for about an hour. Peeled off pretty well. Had to sand the walls lightly after.
I totally agree with moving the drain. It’s a lot of work but well worth it in the long run. The linear drains by the wall always make me nervous. Drain in the center way better.
You and your son have an amazing channel. I've been watching for awhile and I have to say I see the cross over where your son's doing the video and dad's doing the work/manual labour. That said, you're together and it's beautiful. It's pretty special that you're able to build this content together and share. I'm both genuinely envious and appreciative having lost my father. You two represent a very special bond and thank you for taking the time and care to bring it to others. While your son doesn't do as much of the physical labour he does a heck of a great job managing and putting the content together (zero disrespect, you're still doing more then me lol). Thanks again gents, great job!
Much appreciated 👍👊
I don't know what quality your drywall is in your country, but here in the UK I just had a job removing wallpaper that was laid directly onto plasterboard and it was fairly simple and no damage.
All I did was to tear off as much of the wallpaper as I could dry, then the stubborn backing paper was easily removed by wetting with a spray bottle and using a scraper. Minimal damage and the boards dried out just fine, they are designed to get some moisture from plasters and filler, so don't worry too much about moisture.
Pro tip on wallpaper removal- always start at the top of the walls and work your way down. As you start getting pieces off the water will run down the wall and into all the torn areas saturating the paper towards the bottom. I have removed a lot of paper and this seems to work best. Also let the water do the work- if your pulling little scraps and spending lots of time on little areas- just keep wetting it down until it wants to fall off. Good luck!
Got to love that Bosch new tool smell!! I'm a Bosch man myself too, the durability and reliability has been great for me.
Paul, Jordan, Absolutely THE BEST channel in the entire world of its kind! Period! You guys are Great! Everything you do that makes this channel what it is is fantastic! Thank you and God Bless!
These videos are great and I genuinely love seeing the mutual respect and love in your father-son relationship. It makes me happy every time!
We had an addition with a bath and shower constructed many years ago. After several years we started to smell mildew. The contractor came back and "fixed" the "leak". The smell continued and over the next several years we noticed signs of mildew in the bath and creeping outside the door into the hardwood floor. I did some aggressive inspection and found mold and mildew in the walls and floor. I demoed the shower stall and about 1/3 the floor and walls. Turned out the tile guy filled the floor drain weep holes with quickset. I recall the tile guy and the contractor were arguing while the tile guy was doing the floor of the shower. I think he took his anger out on me. I re-did the bath with help of a friend and a plumber , electrician and swanstone installer. (added a steam bath unit to shower stall) Came out fine. A few years latter saw mushrooms growing outside on window trim. Turned out the redwood siding about a 20' x 20' section and some framing were also rotten from the leak. All because the tile guy plugged the weep holes. I did become a much better DIYer. Shower has been fine.
Thx John, yeah it's amazing how much damage can occur from a few little holes being clogged👍👊
Used a steamer years ago, it takes some time, but my tip is to be careful about gouging the drywall paper and/or plaster finish, other than that, I wound up having to wash the walls with TSP and water to remove the old wall paper glue residue, then rinse the walls and let dry, then primed and painted. Use a sponge mop to wash and rinse the the walls ! Have fun ! Great video stud pack !
I've used fabric softener and warm water. It works well and smiles nice to boot.
I've wallpapered a lot and have removed a lot of it too. The best way that I have found to remove it is to put hair conditioner with warm water into a garden sprayer and spray it onto the wall. Let it set a couple of minutes and it'll come right off. It worked better for me than using a steamer. I used one of those tools with teeth that you use to puncture the wallpaper first.
I also have that Milwaukee one hand reciprocating saw, except with the M18 battery. Best thing in the world if you work with PVC plumbing (which I do A LOT OF AS A MASTER SWIMMING POOL REPAIR TECH most of the year).
Paul you really know your stuff what a craftsman!!!! Way better than most if not all home improvement shows
Use the “back scratcher” over all the wall paper so that the water from sponges can soak in easily, then steam.
Wagener makes a good steamer! I used one on a 80s remodel. Biggest thing is to get some penetrations in the paper! It is time consuming but works well! Also get some fans in there to dry the walls as quickly as you can. I ended up skim coating areas where the drywall paper was roughed up.
When I had to take the wall paper down out of my kitchen the thing that made it a lot easier with one of those was work top to bottom with the steamer, and then remove a strip bottom to top. I also used a plastic paint scrapper, but I didn't have drywall underneath.
My dad once bought a Hilti TE35 electric hammer drill. I love this device and highly recommend it. Best money spent even though we do not use it professionally every day. I believe that this is one of the few tools in the home that should be of the best quality.
My advice to you is to lubricate your tools with a special lubricant before mounting them in the head. It will significantly extend the life of the tool.
The Freud Diablo carbide tipped recip blade for thick steel/cast iron is the bomb. Home Depot has them.
My entire house had wallpaper. It did not come off that easily with steam. You are lucky to have that paper peel that easily. Using steamer and scraper resulted in lots of gouges and had to skim coat the entire room in most of the rooms. I gave up and put 1/4" drywall over the wallpaper in small rooms. Yeah, mudding sucks, but a nice new sheet of drywall was so much easier than trying to skim coat the entire bathroom for me.
DIF water paper removal solution is faster ( not the gel), fill up a garden sprayer and spray all the walls after it is perforated. Then just scrap off the wallpaper with a 4 inch razor scraper or a 6 inch taping knife. After clean off all the paste from the wall you might have to do a skim coat to make it smooth.
Great video! Work top to bottom, use fabric softener and try to get the room warm and moisture level up with hot water applied. Sometimes it's easier to start new though. Will be interesting to watch that video!
I don’t have a ton of experience with this, but I had to do the same thing on a remodel last September/October. Two layers. I couldn’t come up with a better way than the way you guys are doing it. I steamed and steamed…and steamed. And it all came off pretty well. In the areas where the paper from the back of the wallpaper remains on the wall, steam it again, and that stuff will nearly disintegrate on the second pass, prettt quickly. It becomes somewhat slimy and you can just take a putty knife and scrape off big wet steamy sections at a time. It doesn’t take near as much time holding it on for that stuff as it does the outer wallpaper itself. Good luck. These types of things are just such a slowwww process. In closing, everyone….stop using wallpaper! Haha.
Wallpaper is 2 layers. The printed surface then the backer. Most of the time you can get those two layers to separate, then you can use the sprayer/time/steam/scraper to remove the remaining paper. Sometimes it will wipe right off the walls just by spraying them down and letting the paper soak up the water, releasing the glue. Once you get the paper off, wipe down the wall, but let it dry, then smooth out the wall by sanding.
@21:20 I'm thinking a little Tap Magic oil will greatly improve the cutting. If it helps with drilling, it would help with cutting (I'm thinking). I've used Tap Magic but even Todd @ Project Farms rated it #1.
You are so right you have to always be thinking five steps ahead preparation is a must
I love the atomic DeWalt version of the reciprocating saw. Has gotten me out of a lot of tight situations. You guys are great with your analysis, explanation, and workmanship. Much success to you!
Great video. Just a thought from my experience. When removing wallpaper, there is a happy median of saturation. If too saturated, and using a putty knife, you run the risk of grabbing the drywall facing. That’s going to require mudding to fix. If not enough, your paper won’t pull up the glue.
I have used the steamer to remove wallpaper before and pre wetting the paper sounds like a good idea, however it will not work with foil or vinyl wallpaper. Unfortunately I was removing foil paper from the 70's so it just took a little longer. Also use the "backscratcher" but try not to damage the plaster too much.
About 50 years ago, I made a scorer by driving a row of nails at an angle through a board to form a crude comb. Dragging the nails over the wall paper cut the top layer of paper. I then used a bug sprayer to soak the paper, which worked better than the steamer. I ought to have watched this video before doing the job, to pick up the hint about wetting the paper, followed by steaming.
Thank you very much for your videos. I really like how you work as a team. It has helped me a lot to make my own shower. Thank you and God 🙏 bless you always.
That method works well. Ive tried every other method you mentioned too. But, unfortunately it always seems you have some sort of drywall work to do. So i normally poke it or scratch it up real good and soak it with water and then remove it all and give all the walls a tight skim after everythings dried and the torn papers been sanded and SEALED as well as any large defects. Always end up with a lvl 5. Costumers always appreciate all the extra work we take to get a perfect finish
Good video guys, I used your tips from past videos to hang a 5/8 in piece of drywall on a ceiling by myself. Helped my shoulders a lot!
I’m in the middle of a bathroom remodel right now. Had to remove 2 layers of wallpaper. It was bonded very well. I found out after using a steamer to remove it all that you can skim coat drywall mud right over top of old wallpaper ONLY IF it’s bonded well. Might try it next time
Love learning from you guys! You two are really good at remodeling. You guys make a great team. Paul your very knowledgeable and so is your son.
I had to chip out a large area of concrete. I used my De Walt 1 5/8 rotary hammer. First I drilled some holes in it and then used the spiral bit and chisel bit to break it up even more. Made a tough job a bit easier. Seems like the drilling is a bit faster then the chipping.
Hey guys. Love the videos. I would suggest using the perforator then with a small pump sprayer filled with DIF and hot water to spray the wallpaper. It’s an enzyme based product which helps soften the wallpaper glue for removal. A little bit in a squirt bottle and a short handle 6” razor scraper will help with tougher areas and small pieces.
I find it totally fascinating to do work on old stuff, Its very cool to do work on something that someone from 30-40-50+ years ago once handled.. If you can do a flash back in your mind and imagine the guy who worked on things prior.. who is probably dead by now.. I love old stuff
Have you try before doing a skim coat with mud same smoothness as a final coat, wait 5 -10 minutes and scrape as we do for pattern ceiling 🙂 try this
Just love your videos. I look forward to every one. I especially like the fact that you guys keep it real and are not pressured to "polish" the final result..
Another great video! I don't envy you this job at all; you're earning every cent on this job.
If you get some box fans, put them on low, and put cheap furnace filters (~20"x20") on the intake side of the fans, it'll clean up a lot of that dust floating around in the air... obviously still use your respirator, but it's a big help to me in past projects.
(Jordan... or whomever the camera guy is... could also mist the hole with plain water every so often to help keep it down too. I've used a vac on them, but the dust fills up the filters pretty fast & they're not as cheap as furnace filters)