Was looking at getting the hawk x recently, but this looks a bit better. Thanks for showing it. Does anyone know what other china bikes have a counter balanced engine?
@@MotoCheez I found the copper retains the shape (indentions). And as cheap as the alum washers are I get them in 50 packs, lots to just throw away. Keep up the good work.
Today I got a quote from Venom for 2 oil filter o-rings. They want $39.99 and shipping too!!! Do you know where to buy parts for the KPX 250 that are reasonable? Venom's parts are way overpriced.
@@MotoCheez These would be the 2 oil filter o-rings that fit on the screw on housing, the one with 4 bolts and you need to line up the 2 holes on the left engine side and the filter cap so the oil flows into the filter housing.
@Kevin-mm6xm not the oil filter one then? I don't think I know which one you're talking about. I was think Napa would carry that if you brought it down and sized it up
@@MotoCheez When you replace your oil filter, you take 4 8mm bolts off and carefully pry that cover off. That cover has two o-rings on it. That's what they want 40.00 for but I can get them other places. What I really want to know is where to buy other parts for the KPX 250 at a reasonable price.
The screen type reusable oil filter is perfectly fine, frequent oil changes is best 1000km or miles is what we use to do. No point in the paper filter for off road type use n frequent oil changes
I figured I'd put one just to catch the fine particles if they're getting through, little extra insurance. Yeah I always do mine at 500 or a thousand miles on all of them
No, I'm not sure that would be a good idea to run the pump and bearings dry and then have to have it suck back up through the pump into the bearings and run dry for that small amount of period it only keeps like point one or two quarts in there according to what it says in the manual for brand new motor and oil change difference
@kevinnashskitchen3517 Yeah I rather not, those type of bearings that are on connecting rod uses the oil as a layer of protection, they're friction bearings. They're not actual roller bearings or ball bearings. I don't know if I want to risk it. That little bit of oil that's left in there shouldn't affect anything
That's one of the upsides I love about my scooter. Since it's a GY6 clone there's no internal wet clutch to accidently ruin because you poured the wrong oil in it. So come next oil change I'm gonna run AMSOIL in it like all of my other machines. I'll just have to buy the high zinc formulation to help with the valves and cam. It currently has Kendall GT-1 20w50 conventional in it because it was cheap and it had a high zinc formulation. I also went with such a thick oil to help it out while riding around during hot weather. So far for the price the Kendall GT-1 is good oil but I'm a big lover of full synthetics so I'm just sticking to that for all my toys and vehicles minus the Hawk. For the Hawk I've been running Lucas 10w40 semi-synthetic blend formulated for air-cooled atv's with wet clutch. So far it's been good but I only ever rode the Hawk once this season. For the next oil change it's getting the same oil but this time I have a bottle of zinc additive to put in with it. :)
@@MotoCheez I think my scooter asks for the same 15w40 weight as your KPX. So running 20w50 in it shouldn't hurt it. Especially when she's up to speed and driving it revs out at 6,500-7,000rpm. So it'll need all the help it can get in hot weather. :)
@@MotoCheez Some of the scooter builders I've watched who modified their GY6's have them revving out at 8,000-9,000rpm because of their clutching. But they also run high flow oil pumps and oil coolers with theirs. Which I'll have to add on eventually. :)
Thanks for your content man. You and Jerry helped me pull the trigger and order one for myself. Comes this Thursday. Is that the original oil that came with it? I know the owners manual says the oil that comes with it is 15w40 and good to run but I see others still recommending to change the oil when getting it and using a filter like you’re using (I looked at wix and KN and both use synthetic medium). You think it matters? I figure I’ll either run it 25-50 miles or change it right away and then go at 150-200 and again at 500 miles. Probably again at 1000 and then I’ll switch to fully synthetic and do it every 1.5-3k miles. This is my first bike and first time breaking in an engine. Does that sound about right to you? I’m okay with overkill - I figure oil is cheap enough and it can’t hurt…
Congratulations! Yes you're on the right path on what to do for oil changes and break in. The oil that comes in it is fine for breaking I put about 150 mi on mine and then put in fresh oil and a thousand miles I will put synthetic. I will definitely be changing the oil again at $500. Putting a paper element filter is probably not a bad idea right off the bat! I would have if I had known about it
@@MotoCheezgood to know! From looking at owners manual it says check/replace oil filter at 6k/15k km(edit: 3.7-9.3k miles). I was honestly planning on each time until break in. Honestly after that, every 1.5-3k which I assume will be roughly 1x/year with oil change. Only 11 bucks if not buying in bulk. Do you plan on doing the same? I know I’ve gone every-other oil change with my truck but I also go out of my way to use 99.9% efficiency filters and the best oil I can get. Appreciate your help for us noobs! I know I’m overthinking from excitement and thanks again for all the help.
I've had a hawk with 8k miles and a orion rxb 250 with now 4k. I have never seen so much junk in the screens with my bikes. Watching these videos makes me happy with my purchase. KPX has its place but not for me.
All my CG bikes, hawks, tbr etc had much more crap floating in the oil first 2 oil changes. Those other engines don't have a screen style filter which actually is now replaced by a paper element so it'll catch way more crap from circulating through the motor
I think that extra 3" makes a big diff. for handling. For one thing, it helps keep the front wheel down. Maybe you could confirm that with a tape measure (in your cheezy time). 🙂
@MotoCheez Good. This is what I did for my Grom clone. I would choose T6 5w-40 and not T6 15w-40. T6 15w-40 is better suited for diesel so I hear. T6 5w-40 is better for gas engines in that it lubricates easier, starts easier, has a better cold start viscosity, and extreme temperatures.
@@MotoCheez I just thought it was funny when you came home you said it was almost out of gas at the end of the video and then on the next video you took off and still didn't have any gas in it lol. Something we all do. Forget to put gas in. I wish you great luck on all your adventures
The non-stick oil drain pot is secretly genius :D
T4 does seem to have one of the best additive packages for a bike.
Been using it for 5 years in 3 different bikes , all Japanese ones, works fine.
Perfect use for a Teflon pot.
Yep got rid of all the Teflon pots and pans a long time ago, that's why this one was recommissioned to catch oil
I've heard some good things about rotella.
Love that oil drain pan❤
Was looking at getting the hawk x recently, but this looks a bit better. Thanks for showing it. Does anyone know what other china bikes have a counter balanced engine?
This is a LOT better than the hawk, the Brozz also has counterbalanced engine
I measure ID and OD on the oil drain plug then order aluminum washers by the 50 pack and that will replace the crush washer. Cheaper than copper too.
You can reuse the copper ones several times just make sure they do not gall. Copper is better in my opinion.
@@MotoCheez I found the copper retains the shape (indentions). And as cheap as the alum washers are I get them in 50 packs, lots to just throw away. Keep up the good work.
Please review the Templar X 250!
I contacted them, they're not interested.....
These look like a good value bike cheers Mick Australia
Cheers!
So how did the paper filter do? I'm about to buy my first filter change for it.
I haven't changed the oil again yet, but seems good.
Looking to get the Lifan as well since it’s efi with a 6 speed. Know of any others that are comparable with a 6 speed?
No I don't
@@MotoCheez I like the look of the brozz but sadly it’s only a 5 speed
Today I got a quote from Venom for 2 oil filter o-rings. They want $39.99 and shipping too!!! Do you know where to buy parts for the KPX 250 that are reasonable? Venom's parts are way overpriced.
I bought the oil filters in a come with the o-ring online from Amazon, I believe it's in the description of every KPX video I do but I will go check
amzn.to/3L80dyI
Yeah I did have it in there and a few other links for this bike
@@MotoCheez These would be the 2 oil filter o-rings that fit on the screw on housing, the one with 4 bolts and you need to line up the 2 holes on the left engine side and the filter cap so the oil flows into the filter housing.
@Kevin-mm6xm not the oil filter one then? I don't think I know which one you're talking about. I was think Napa would carry that if you brought it down and sized it up
@@MotoCheez When you replace your oil filter, you take 4 8mm bolts off and carefully pry that cover off. That cover has two o-rings on it. That's what they want 40.00 for but I can get them other places. What I really want to know is where to buy other parts for the KPX 250 at a reasonable price.
The screen type reusable oil filter is perfectly fine, frequent oil changes is best 1000km or miles is what we use to do.
No point in the paper filter for off road type use n frequent oil changes
I figured I'd put one just to catch the fine particles if they're getting through, little extra insurance. Yeah I always do mine at 500 or a thousand miles on all of them
Have you ever disconnected the plug wire and turned the engine over when draining the oil at the end?
No, I'm not sure that would be a good idea to run the pump and bearings dry and then have to have it suck back up through the pump into the bearings and run dry for that small amount of period it only keeps like point one or two quarts in there according to what it says in the manual for brand new motor and oil change difference
@@MotoCheez everything is coated with oil.. You only crank the engine for 1/2 a second . more oil comes out but not much.
@kevinnashskitchen3517 Yeah I rather not, those type of bearings that are on connecting rod uses the oil as a layer of protection, they're friction bearings. They're not actual roller bearings or ball bearings.
I don't know if I want to risk it. That little bit of oil that's left in there shouldn't affect anything
@@MotoCheez right.. Not really a difference anyway
That's one of the upsides I love about my scooter. Since it's a GY6 clone there's no internal wet clutch to accidently ruin because you poured the wrong oil in it. So come next oil change I'm gonna run AMSOIL in it like all of my other machines. I'll just have to buy the high zinc formulation to help with the valves and cam. It currently has Kendall GT-1 20w50 conventional in it because it was cheap and it had a high zinc formulation. I also went with such a thick oil to help it out while riding around during hot weather. So far for the price the Kendall GT-1 is good oil but I'm a big lover of full synthetics so I'm just sticking to that for all my toys and vehicles minus the Hawk.
For the Hawk I've been running Lucas 10w40 semi-synthetic blend formulated for air-cooled atv's with wet clutch. So far it's been good but I only ever rode the Hawk once this season. For the next oil change it's getting the same oil but this time I have a bottle of zinc additive to put in with it. :)
Awesome, many people don't know the importance of knowing what oil is needed in these bikes and scooters.
@@MotoCheez I think my scooter asks for the same 15w40 weight as your KPX. So running 20w50 in it shouldn't hurt it. Especially when she's up to speed and driving it revs out at 6,500-7,000rpm. So it'll need all the help it can get in hot weather. :)
@Slane583 absolutely, I run 2050 if I can't get the 1540 because it's good pretty much 30° f and up to over 100°
@@MotoCheez Some of the scooter builders I've watched who modified their GY6's have them revving out at 8,000-9,000rpm because of their clutching. But they also run high flow oil pumps and oil coolers with theirs. Which I'll have to add on eventually. :)
@@Slane58320W50 is rather “thick” these generally say 10W40 or 15W40 and diesel oil is the better option etc
Thanks for your content man. You and Jerry helped me pull the trigger and order one for myself. Comes this Thursday.
Is that the original oil that came with it? I know the owners manual says the oil that comes with it is 15w40 and good to run but I see others still recommending to change the oil when getting it and using a filter like you’re using (I looked at wix and KN and both use synthetic medium).
You think it matters? I figure I’ll either run it 25-50 miles or change it right away and then go at 150-200 and again at 500 miles. Probably again at 1000 and then I’ll switch to fully synthetic and do it every 1.5-3k miles.
This is my first bike and first time breaking in an engine. Does that sound about right to you? I’m okay with overkill - I figure oil is cheap enough and it can’t hurt…
Congratulations! Yes you're on the right path on what to do for oil changes and break in. The oil that comes in it is fine for breaking I put about 150 mi on mine and then put in fresh oil and a thousand miles I will put synthetic. I will definitely be changing the oil again at $500. Putting a paper element filter is probably not a bad idea right off the bat! I would have if I had known about it
@@MotoCheezgood to know! From looking at owners manual it says check/replace oil filter at 6k/15k km(edit: 3.7-9.3k miles). I was honestly planning on each time until break in.
Honestly after that, every 1.5-3k which I assume will be roughly 1x/year with oil change. Only 11 bucks if not buying in bulk.
Do you plan on doing the same? I know I’ve gone every-other oil change with my truck but I also go out of my way to use 99.9% efficiency filters and the best oil I can get.
Appreciate your help for us noobs! I know I’m overthinking from excitement and thanks again for all the help.
@sknapp19911 I usually do every 1000 on the bikes if I'm mostly doing off-road. Cheap insurance
I've had a hawk with 8k miles and a orion rxb 250 with now 4k. I have never seen so much junk in the screens with my bikes. Watching these videos makes me happy with my purchase. KPX has its place but not for me.
All my CG bikes, hawks, tbr etc had much more crap floating in the oil first 2 oil changes. Those other engines don't have a screen style filter which actually is now replaced by a paper element so it'll catch way more crap from circulating through the motor
That is normal for any new bike, even jap bikes.
ROTELLA 👍🤩👍
The lense! The lense! Clean the lense! Oh God you splattered Vaseline in my eyes!😂
😅
Wheelbase comparison 🙂
Lifan KPX 250 ... 1445mm / 56.9in (from owners manual)
Hawk X 250 ... 1370mm / 53.9in (from txps webpage)
Never noticed that!
I think that extra 3" makes a big diff. for handling.
For one thing, it helps keep the front wheel down.
Maybe you could confirm that with a tape measure (in your cheezy time). 🙂
@FnLn55 and heavier front end being inverted forks. DLX also was impossible to lift front end
Wondering also how the longer wheelbase affects the rider's triangle, perhaps the pegs are more forward, and knees less bent, eh. 🙂
@FnLn55 I can check that too, but these pegs feel more toward rear. You can stand up on the pegs and it's not aqwuard like the hawk
What do you prefer. T6 or T4?
One for break in I definitely want to use a t4 and I may move to the t6 synthetic
@MotoCheez Good. This is what I did for my Grom clone. I would choose T6 5w-40 and not T6 15w-40. T6 15w-40 is better suited for diesel so I hear.
T6 5w-40 is better for gas engines in that it lubricates easier, starts easier, has a better cold start viscosity, and extreme temperatures.
Got Cheez? Lol omg thats a good decent pot
🤣
@@MotoCheez 😂
I have the "Mother of all oil Filters" on my KTM from Taco Moto... Magnetic.. Just wipe it off.. That's all, no changing any filters..
Magnet a good idea
👍🤘
She's going to make you dinner in that pot later...😅
I already added the cooking oil!
First!
Yes!
Keep the GoPro
Also lmao no
one put gas in for you
I did
@@MotoCheez I just thought it was funny when you came home you said it was almost out of gas at the end of the video and then on the next video you took off and still didn't have any gas in it lol. Something we all do. Forget to put gas in. I wish you great luck on all your adventures
@jamescampbell6327 😆 hate when I do that!
Beep
Meep