Excellent video, HT, thanks. My 2008 Odyssey developed quite a vibration under acceleration late last year; I described it as a "shudder," since it seemed to shake the entire front subframe. I experienced this at slower speeds (leaving from a stop) and freeway speeds and mostly under high-load/torque scenarios, and never under coasting or deceleration. I had done the motor mounts, steering rack with inner & outer tie rods, and lower control arms about 18 months prior, so I didn't suspect those. Both axles were replaced about four years ago with OEM Honda units, and had only been about 30,000 miles. Upon inspection, I noticed the passenger side axle inner joint had some slop to it, enough to cause a slightly audible knock if I wiggled it up/down or fore/aft with the van stationary and lifted up. Replaced the passenger side axle with another OEM Honda part, and no more vibration. My van is lowered quite a bit (about 2") on BC Racing coilovers and bigger 20x10.0" wheels - I'm certain the lowering in particular exacerbates the axle wear issues I've seen due to the change of angle the axle must operate within. The van is low enough that the outer ends of the axles are higher than the inner joints. The Odyssey guys have had vibration issues with the aftermarket axles, so I've always stuck with the much pricier Honda parts - save yourself the labor and headache, buy OEM.
I had an acceleration vibration on my 05 accord coupe and had it checked by multiple mechanics, I asked them all if it could be my axles they inspected them and said no. I chased the problem until I decided to just replaced both axles and it fixed the shaking just saying
Hi sir I have the same issue on my passenger side! Vibrates under load and makes grinding noise when coming to a stop after a while of driving low howl /hum can be heard is it really just the cv joint
I replaced the inner cup ordered from Heeltoe, one side, then the other for my 07 TSX. This was about 2015 at 90K Km, shortly following purchase the car began to shudder/shake the front end on acceleration at around 40Kmh. I then decided to repeat drain/fill of the ATF again, having been done following purchase a few months prior and found metal in it including a broken chunk. Transmission replaced, this sorted the front end shake. I have reason to believe the previous owner damaged the Trans, towing a trailer. The car now at 170K Km doesn't shudder, but has other issues. I'm planning to replace the wheel bearings but I am doubting this was necessary at this stage. Motivated to do this due to a whine which seems to me as if originating from a bearing. It is more audible or noticeable at lower speed and on deceleration. It is heard when rolling in neutral, I've replaced PS bearing, belt tensioner, run the car without belt for short spurt. Not long ago all motor mounts have been replaced for new and despite this it clunks when shifting havig reversed to D. It happens despite being fully stopped, however car is idling around 1,000 or more (not entirely warm). When the car is warmed up idling approximately 800RPM no clunk. I pre assembled my steering knuckle with new bearing & BJ to swap out the old. I would appreciate comment on whether replacement of the intermediate half shaft bearing may be relevant to the whine and/or clunk. The whining does not audibly change or increase when turning and there is no clicking ie U Turn etc.
Hondas and Acuras that have the 6 speed manual trans have had vibration and clicking axle noises since 03 when the weather gets cold, like 0*F . My 05 TL 3.2 has had this problem for a couple yrs now. I've replaced both side CV axles w OEM Honda parts 3 times and in severe cold weather, both sides will cause the dreaded clicking noises on a hard turn under power as well as shudder on accel at highway speeds. I've replaced all motor and trans mounts, and even had the driveline looked at, at a body shop to make sure nothing had shifted, and everything was ok. The intermediate shaft bearing was replaced just for the heck of it, but in colder weather, same thing, a shudder on accel, VSC turned on or off, didn't matter. Turns out there was a 2 part problem. 1st was the diff had excessive internal play and had to be rebuilt. 2nd was that Honda didn't fill the CV axles with the proper cold weather viscosity lube in the CV axles. Worth noting, is that the aftermarket axles use the same amount as well as the same fluids that the OEMs use. The Slipkote Poly lube seemed to fix this problem, so far! I replaced the factory lube with their stuff, but added a little more than stock. Of course, you have to pull the axles apart to do this, but so far, it seems worth it!
Thanks for the great feedback! The issue with the TSX is a very specific and repeatable one and does not seem to be dependent on temperature. It is with the inner joint, as we have seen. The clicking you have seems like it would come from outers.
Go to a tire store and have them check your alloy rims to see if they are bent from cuttin a corner to sharp OR a flat spot from driving off the edge of a curb like leaving a parking lot or hitting a manhole lid at 35mph sunk 4-5 inches below the pavement. Happens to me a lot
For others: also check for tire roundness. You can balance and re-balance a tire 100 times, but if it's out of round, none of it matters. I've seen this first hand with brand new tires from less than reputable brands. Just watch it on the wheel balancer, the "hop" can be pretty noticeable if you spin the wheel/tire on the machine by hand.
Inner CV joint in this video is within the tolerance. However, change has to be done sooner or later, after 200 or 500Kkm and aftermarket parts feels apart much more easy. Vertical axis play quickly becomes much more present than one on the video and vibrations become annoying. Although many other things can cause vibrations (crooked axle, damaged rim/tire etc.) in 99,99% it is inner CV joint on Acura TSX. Weak point, stupidly done, on generally bulletproof car. Simple as that.
I have this same setup on my '05 Element and also have vibration on acceleration like so many others that have posted comments on this video and others. To diagnose the problem I inspected this jack shaft/right side cv axle and observed the *same* amount of play/movement but was not sure if that was "normal". Your short video suggests that this may be the case. Thank you.
My element has vibration on acceleration as well. The right side inner joint really is the likely culprit. it is likely worn inside, the play has nothing to do with it. I'll be posting a video on my element before long.
@@Heeltoe. I swapped out my right cv axle with a good OEM Honda axle from a scrap yard. No change at all so for me it's over to replacing the left side now. Unfortunately, finding an OEM Honda left axle has proven to be impossible!
@@canuckfixit7722 The left aftermarket axles, from what we have seen, can be used totally fine. It is not out of line thinking that a used axle would be worn out also...pull the boot and inspect the inside of the cup! www.heeltoeauto.com/news/04-08-acura-tsx-axle-vibration-issue...found-and-fixed.html
That play seems normal. My Ford has that carrier bearing for the "half shaft" (Ford calls it intermediate shaft). Have you seen those bearings howl like a bad wheel bearing under load?
I think I replaced both wheel bearing thinking it was the problem, going to change that axle and check that bearing too,I get a little almost up and down shaking when acc. And it sounds like a bad wheelbearing,
Hey, I have '05 Accord EX with 2.4L gasoline engine, and I can feel shaking on acceleration, but only between 25 and 35 km/h. It's shaking in every gear (1,2,3), so I guess it's not the gearbox... I can't hear any weird sound... it just shakes (vibrates). Due to the problem I replaced both shafts (including CV joints) and also the bearing on the right, which holds the right shaft. I'm out of ideas :) Any suggestion?
Do you have any experience with the 2nd gen tsx 2.4i (Or Honda Accord CU2 for me in the UK) driveshafts? I've had horrible shaking/vibration with any type of acceleration beyond 50mph much worse when going up any kind of hill, I've taken the car to a few independent shops who seem to be in the same opinion of driveshaft but unable to fix as they can't source parts. I'm just after some advice how to get this car sorted before I go down the road of spending a fortune at a Honda dealership.
I changed both my drive shafts on my second Gen TSX because I know they snap at the joint where the bushing is. This morning I’m getting vibration at higher speeds, however I suspect it’s my tires. The vibration is not steady, it vibrates, the. Stops then vibrates again all while driving. Could be the roads. Not sure.
hello, Can you help me answer my question? So just replace both CV joints on my car (08 honda accord sedan i4) and I have noticed that the passenger CV joint is also able to move in and out just like in this video but a little further out that I can able to see the gear's teeth but it won't fall off thanks to the set ring inside the intermediate shaft. I can push it in or out just by hand! I hope that is normal?!
Mine exactly 2012 honda accord. Im assuming you just did joints and not the intermediate shaft? do you get vibrations? I realize this is a 4 years old comment. hope you see.
They're designed to move in and out, after the cup part. To allow for the suspension movement up and down, the CV needs to change length within that cup.
Could it be a mount causing the vibration? TSX has 3 motor mounts and 3 transmission mounts. Engine shakes vigorously when operating, especially when raising RPMs (acceleration).
07 accord manual, I’m having a shaking from the front end passenger side, mostly only in second gear, I replaced the axles (aftermarket) and replaced the intermediate shaft and I’m still having this issue, checked all motor and transmission mounts my mechanic thinks it could be my clutch but I’m not sure do you recommend replacing the aftermarket axles to OEM ones?
Quick question…I’m chasing a steering vibration and I was wondering if that play in and out is normal between the intermediate shaft and right cv axle..everything is OEM…actually the axles have 12k miles on it…I drive a Honda accord 2016 Sport…thanks
So in that same intermediate shaft while my cv is still connected to hub/tire i can push the cv joint up and actually move it almost 2 inches and expose the splines inside the intermediate shaft. That must be it broken?? Car has vibrations and the classic clicking when turning opposite direction. But the fact i can actually expose my splines inside the intermediate shaft concerns me. Is that normal or no? 2012 honda accord se.
"move it almost 2 inches and expose the splines" that sounds excessive for sure. Clicking while turning is an outer joint issue. Sounds like you maybe need a complete new axle.
@@Heeltoe. 1 year later. Im driving my axle pops off the intermediate shaft and grinded like crazy making my car rev and not move. Removed the joint to find out last install buddy didnt use a c clip (set ring) on the intermediate shaft to lock it in. Now the end of my intermediate shaft and start of cv joint are stripped. Bought the ring hoping it will install fine and wont have long term issues.
I replaced everything upfront from axels to motor mounts to coils to wheels ,everything I could think of so it has to be that half shaft or Inter bearing right?
2007 acura tl types both axles replaced by acura of Charleston and still vibrating all the time it gets worse in fifth gear I think,. really hard to tell anymore what a pain...road force balance ,brand new nittos. , about to go back and check balance and alignment one last time...saga continues..
diazo989 I have the same vibration. Right when it shifts to fifth and I’m going about 50 to 60 mph it shakes like crazy. I mostly does it when it’s cold and when it warms up it kinda goes away. I’ve replaced both the cv axles but not the intermediate shaft. It’s such a pain to get to the intermediate shaft because of the large v6. Almost need to drop the j pipe to get access.
I just had dealer replace both axles on my 4th Gen TL, non AWD. one factory, one aftermarket because they couldn't get part. Reduced vibration but not cured. There was no vibration earlier.
I have a question for you I had new axles installed on both sides and it replaced the vibration I was dealing with but all of a sudden there now is the same vibration only at 25 - 30 mph right after i changed with changed with afternoon axles. What could cause that ?
@Heeltoe is this the same for honda accord? That's the vehicle I own. Also will driving with it like this do Amy damage? have been doing it for months. If I accelerate rather quickly I don't even feel it.
Can this affect the steering? Both my TL and Accord have some vibration and have wobbly steering in spite of the suspensions being in good shape or new.
@@Heeltoe. Hmmm thanks for replying. I definitely notice that if I turn the wheel lock to lock while stopped my steering feels numb after and has some vibration. I'm going to check this next time I'm on a lift. Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.
Do you know what could cause vibrations felt through steering wheel when driving at certain engine RPM regardless of speed? I have 2019 Honda Civic and those vibrations started a few weeks ago and no one knows what is the cause. The only issue found is excessive play in both inner axle joints, or at least independent shops say it's way too much, Honda dealership says that it's fine... Vibrations are strongest when driving 50-70 km/h at 1300 rpm - that's what CVT sets in D mode.
I have a vibration in my 04 Honda accord when accelerating but only in second gear the rest of the gears are fine, I'm thinking it is in the transmission. Just replaced both half shafts but not the intermediate shaft
So I feel the vibration under acceleration, but it's felt more "in the seat" vs. felt through the steering wheel. Does this still sound like the CV joint?
Before I drop a few hundred bucks on your kit. My car vibrates pretty good at any speed if I mash the gas. I can rev the engine, without any vibration. Vibration does seem to get worse faster I go. I have replaced the struts, tie rods, rear upper control arms, sway bar links, tires, got all tires balanced....still have this issue. What test can we do to confirm the inner joint is the culprit. I jacked the car up and grabbed the cv shaft and the passenger side has slight, not a lot, slight play. The drivers side has zero.
@@lukeyna1 You might also inspect the engine mounts thoroughly. You can also open the inner joint and inspect the cup for wear: www.heeltoeauto.com/news/04-08-acura-tsx-axle-vibration-issue...found-and-fixed.html
The vibration you would feel with high speed or rough acceleration is due the the CV axles, if you already did a wheel balance and alignment and the vibration is still there then the CV axles are your problem I would also recommend changing the intermediate shaft as well.
More specifically, we have identified vibration during acceleration, even mild acceleration at slower or specific speeds, to be axle issues. A wheel balance is specifically characterized with steady state cruise at 60+ mph. Alignment, we have not seen this be the root cause of a vibration issue except when it causes extreme uneaven tire wear and it throws off the balance. The intermediate shaft on these cars we have found to be a red herring in nearly all cases. I can't say I have every truly seen one go bad.
Hi,I have Accord CL7 2.4 140kw benzin,need to replace both cv joints,but in my country is very hard to find.Does anyone knows if I can take parts from other honda models?tnx
Changed tires and brake rotors. Nothing. Changed inner cv joint it goes better now but not fixed. I think is the intermiate shaft the problem. I will try to build a new one better. And say to you. The oem new is 600 euro
@@Heeltoe. only passengers side. I think passengers side get bend with the time. Its my next step. Inner and outer cv joints are ok, no damage so it must be the problem. Media shaft is ok too
Off topic,but if you have a 98 acura cl or 98 accord or that Gen. And sometimes it won't start when it's hot,but it turns over,Replace Ignition coil,I replaced master relay,ignition switch,and it still did it,finally changed ig. Coil and it fixed the proble.
@@Heeltoe. question, what's the name of the bearing that the driverside CV axle goes through, the one in the picture of this video,it's inside the bracket houseing?housing? What's it's name,I need to change mine
Asking because I changed both wheelbearings on drive and pass side even tho they were tight,and I have a bearing noise still,pass side cv axle is changed to,going to do driver side very soon
mine is vibrating around 45-60mph both on and off gas in that range. just started after replacing my ball joints. Anybody have tips for narrowing down the part? Tire shop said I need to replace my left lower control arm. But that would just cause clunking and weird steering wouldnt it?
I have a 2004 honda accord lx with the 3.0, i replaced the passenger side axle shaft but the vibration is still there so i will try the inner shaft next and give you the update, thanks very much for the video
I have an 11 accord v6. I get vibration under acceleration 60mph - 75. I have had one mechanic telle torque converter clutch slipping. And another tell me axles. I am going to one more shop tomorrow for a 3rd opinion. I have done a drain and fill with the tranny fluid and found no metal shavings. I have been driving like this for a year and still can't figure out a solution. I hope it's only some axles. Only 120k miles on the car.
If my axle is not tight enough to shaft assembly, what should I do? (can I hit the end of the axle (without unscrewing lower, upper joint bolts)) (just unscrew an axle nut and hit the axle end with a rubber hummer? )
On my 97 Acura Integra I have a super hard clunking sound and vibration when the vehicle is in motion. It's so bad I wear headphones while driving. I replaced both axles to see if it would solve the problem but no. Replaced tie rods too. Seeing a pivotal difference at the half shaft bearing though
My dad's 2010 honda accord has the vibration issue. I ended up replacing both inner and outer axel assemblies. Still having the issue. Both parts cost close to 500 dollars each so I am not sure if he will now replace the driver side to see if that corrects the issue. The engine mounts seem fine. I'll let you guys know if there is any updates.
@@kanefowler434 hi. Yes it was the driver side axle in my dad's case that was the problem. His suspension was factory so we were able to go with a autozone brand axle on the driver side and it took care of the problem. We saw the inside axel house having deep spots by the bearings. Not sure how that happens. th-cam.com/video/52nRcaHrTbE/w-d-xo.html
If the problem is with the right side axle, we've only really found that genuine OEM parts fix it. For the left side you can get pretty much any axle and they work fine. Never seen it be an intermediate shaft.
My rsx has wayyy more play in that bearing lol been chasing this vibration for almost 2 years. Only thing ive done is traded wheels and new tires. Tires helped alot. Still feel it just a little around 70mph. But also my axle is bad. Just about all my mounts are bad and supposedly the passenger mount causes wheel vibration. And I need new brakes lol. Doesnt get worse when i brake but people tell me its the caliper not disengaging all the way and still making contact when drive. Who knows lol
Hey I have 04 tsx 6 speed and it has this vibration on acceleration between 18-23 and comes back at around 60ish, would I have to replace the driver side axle? I replaced passenger side axle a few months back when I first got the car, TIA.
HeeltoeAuto thanks for the reply, I didn’t replace with an OEM axle but because the boots were ripped, and the wobble wasn’t occurring at the time. But now that it is here I’m thinking of replacing both axles bc I replaced the outter tie rods as the bushing were shot thinking it was that but it only toned down the vibration so I’m thinking it’s the driver side axle
HeeltoeAuto also I feel it under my seat mostly coming from driver side when I have someone else drive and I’m in passager seat it’s not as aggressive as it would be if I were in the driver seat
what about when you move the axle joint side to side up and down (grab hold the inner cv joint)? here you have shown in and out, and twisting around (torsional as you called it) could also be the shaft/bearing within the differential that the axle splines goes into? could also be a bad differential/transmission causing vibrations?? is this 2wd/4wd?? is there a transfer case??
Hey I've got WAY more play than this, also a audible clunk on/off throttle, I cant find anything else, do you think it could be the intermediate shaft bearing?
I have 2006 2.4 Euro Honda Accord CL9 with 159k Miles on clock, and its same situation. I have slight play, but no vibrations at all during accelerating or crussing.
+Marcin Markiewicz alot of cars have play around the inner joint. most cars if u grab the inner axle joint on most cars they will have play up and down. between all the bearings and the diff, and splines in the shaft it all adds up to a little bit of play. ive seen this on most of my own cars. U can buy a UPDATED inner cv joint from honda for about 150, seems like not alot of people trust the oem joints, but honda did have a update and changed the part number. so they are aware of the problem and have made a better part. on my own car a 04 TL 6mt the vibration comes and go's. i have had it so i dont feel the vibration for a week then one day it would vibarate from 20mph up till i hit about 45-49mph it would do it the first time i drove it that day then would not do it again for another week. i know its a axle problem but want to looking it further. it feels like there fix-a-flat in the tire. its starts to vibarate then gos away after about 60 sec of driving
So I have a 2005 honda 3.0l v6 6speed I've had this really bad vibration at 50-65mph and then it slows down when I'm at 80mph but anything under 50mph no vibration so I thought it was my rims & tires swapped all 4 out & then broke them down cleaned my rim bead put it all bck together & rebalanced all 4 with inner & outter weights put them bck on the car same vibration...so I changed upper & lower control arms , inner & outer tie rods aligned it ,, lower ball joints , sway links & bushings, calipers , brakes , brake hoses , rotors , cv axles and I still have the same dam vibration the next move is mounts...PLZ PLZ PLZ PLZ HELP ME...
@@Heeltoe. I also found that the jack shaft has way to much play in it from the barring so I went out & bought a used one from the junk yard same yr make & model & this jack shaft has no play in the barring at all...so I. Gunna glean it up and lube both ends & swap it out here in the next couple weeks to see if that's the issue bcuz thats what I'm 75/25% leading towards
I have the same problem, my car vibrates a little at stop around 2000 to 3000 rpms And then when driving it gets worse It shakes the entire car I have a 2015 Honda Civic Si
I'm getting excessive play up and down on 3 different axles where they connect to the half shaft. Being a machinist My question is what's the difference from OEM and aftermarket shafts?
@@Heeltoe. The up and down movement from female CV (axle) to the half shaft (male spline) isn't giving you problems? There is roughly 2.5 inches of spline engagement if made correctly there should be miniscule movement. Basically enough clearance for them to slide in and out to accommodate for Bumps in the road.
@@Heeltoe. Are you saying that the issue is in the CV itself? Like if I were to just replace the end with your OEM kit it would prob take care of the issue? How often have you seen somebody by the CV end kit that you sell and still have the problem
@@josephfields5148 Yes a new inner joint resolves the issue, they wear on the inside. I have not sold people new joints and have that not fix the issue to my knowledge.
I'm having the same problem on my 2012 civic si. the vibration is crazy going above 70mph+. I replaced the passenger with a oem CV axle. and it's still the same issue. can't figure it out.
I'm gonna change my Axel and see what happens.... Can't find carrier bearing for half shaft.... 1987 crx with D16A1 swap discontinued part what Honda says... Gonna take out bearing and measure it I guess if Axel don't fix.
Hi, I have a civic SI EH9 and yo u might consider the half shaft bearing . For your CRX carrier bearing ( part #91005-PC9-008 are available on ebay and www.bernardiparts.com)
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Excellent video, HT, thanks. My 2008 Odyssey developed quite a vibration under acceleration late last year; I described it as a "shudder," since it seemed to shake the entire front subframe. I experienced this at slower speeds (leaving from a stop) and freeway speeds and mostly under high-load/torque scenarios, and never under coasting or deceleration. I had done the motor mounts, steering rack with inner & outer tie rods, and lower control arms about 18 months prior, so I didn't suspect those. Both axles were replaced about four years ago with OEM Honda units, and had only been about 30,000 miles.
Upon inspection, I noticed the passenger side axle inner joint had some slop to it, enough to cause a slightly audible knock if I wiggled it up/down or fore/aft with the van stationary and lifted up. Replaced the passenger side axle with another OEM Honda part, and no more vibration.
My van is lowered quite a bit (about 2") on BC Racing coilovers and bigger 20x10.0" wheels - I'm certain the lowering in particular exacerbates the axle wear issues I've seen due to the change of angle the axle must operate within. The van is low enough that the outer ends of the axles are higher than the inner joints. The Odyssey guys have had vibration issues with the aftermarket axles, so I've always stuck with the much pricier Honda parts - save yourself the labor and headache, buy OEM.
I had an acceleration vibration on my 05 accord coupe and had it checked by multiple mechanics, I asked them all if it could be my axles they inspected them and said no. I chased the problem until I decided to just replaced both axles and it fixed the shaking just saying
Hi sir I have the same issue on my passenger side! Vibrates under load and makes grinding noise when coming to a stop after a while of driving low howl /hum can be heard is it really just the cv joint
Lol mechanics.
I replaced the inner cup ordered from Heeltoe, one side, then the other for my 07 TSX. This was about 2015 at 90K Km, shortly following purchase the car began to shudder/shake the front end on acceleration at around 40Kmh. I then decided to repeat drain/fill of the ATF again, having been done following purchase a few months prior and found metal in it including a broken chunk. Transmission replaced, this sorted the front end shake. I have reason to believe the previous owner damaged the Trans, towing a trailer. The car now at 170K Km doesn't shudder, but has other issues. I'm planning to replace the wheel bearings but I am doubting this was necessary at this stage. Motivated to do this due to a whine which seems to me as if originating from a bearing. It is more audible or noticeable at lower speed and on deceleration. It is heard when rolling in neutral, I've replaced PS bearing, belt tensioner, run the car without belt for short spurt. Not long ago all motor mounts have been replaced for new and despite this it clunks when shifting havig reversed to D. It happens despite being fully stopped, however car is idling around 1,000 or more (not entirely warm). When the car is warmed up idling approximately 800RPM no clunk. I pre assembled my steering knuckle with new bearing & BJ to swap out the old. I would appreciate comment on whether replacement of the intermediate half shaft bearing may be relevant to the whine and/or clunk. The whining does not audibly change or increase when turning and there is no clicking ie U Turn etc.
Hondas and Acuras that have the 6 speed manual trans have had vibration and clicking axle noises since 03 when the weather gets cold, like 0*F . My 05 TL 3.2 has had this problem for a couple yrs now. I've replaced both side CV axles w OEM Honda parts 3 times and in severe cold weather, both sides will cause the dreaded clicking noises on a hard turn under power as well as shudder on accel at highway speeds. I've replaced all motor and trans mounts, and even had the driveline looked at, at a body shop to make sure nothing had shifted, and everything was ok. The intermediate shaft bearing was replaced just for the heck of it, but in colder weather, same thing, a shudder on accel, VSC turned on or off, didn't matter. Turns out there was a 2 part problem. 1st was the diff had excessive internal play and had to be rebuilt. 2nd was that Honda didn't fill the CV axles with the proper cold weather viscosity lube in the CV axles. Worth noting, is that the aftermarket axles use the same amount as well as the same fluids that the OEMs use. The Slipkote Poly lube seemed to fix this problem, so far! I replaced the factory lube with their stuff, but added a little more than stock. Of course, you have to pull the axles apart to do this, but so far, it seems worth it!
Thanks for the great feedback! The issue with the TSX is a very specific and repeatable one and does not seem to be dependent on temperature. It is with the inner joint, as we have seen. The clicking you have seems like it would come from outers.
Any video showing that bad differential play sound?
Go to a tire store and have them check your alloy rims to see if they are bent from cuttin a corner to sharp OR a flat spot from driving off the edge of a curb like leaving a parking lot or hitting a manhole lid at 35mph sunk 4-5 inches below the pavement. Happens to me a lot
That's not the issue here. The vibration discussed in this video is specific to axle joint issues.
For others: also check for tire roundness. You can balance and re-balance a tire 100 times, but if it's out of round, none of it matters. I've seen this first hand with brand new tires from less than reputable brands. Just watch it on the wheel balancer, the "hop" can be pretty noticeable if you spin the wheel/tire on the machine by hand.
06 CRV with 360k+ miles
The bracket for the bearing is bent, causing major vibration around 70mph. It’s literally bent at a diagonal angle
Inner CV joint in this video is within the tolerance.
However, change has to be done sooner or later, after 200 or 500Kkm and aftermarket parts feels apart much more easy.
Vertical axis play quickly becomes much more present than one on the video and vibrations become annoying.
Although many other things can cause vibrations (crooked axle, damaged rim/tire etc.) in 99,99% it is inner CV joint on Acura TSX.
Weak point, stupidly done, on generally bulletproof car.
Simple as that.
I have this same setup on my '05 Element and also have vibration on acceleration like so many others that have posted comments on this video and others. To diagnose the problem I inspected this jack shaft/right side cv axle and observed the *same* amount of play/movement but was not sure if that was "normal". Your short video suggests that this may be the case. Thank you.
My element has vibration on acceleration as well. The right side inner joint really is the likely culprit. it is likely worn inside, the play has nothing to do with it. I'll be posting a video on my element before long.
@@Heeltoe. I swapped out my right cv axle with a good OEM Honda axle from a scrap yard. No change at all so for me it's over to replacing the left side now. Unfortunately, finding an OEM Honda left axle has proven to be impossible!
@@canuckfixit7722 The left aftermarket axles, from what we have seen, can be used totally fine. It is not out of line thinking that a used axle would be worn out also...pull the boot and inspect the inside of the cup! www.heeltoeauto.com/news/04-08-acura-tsx-axle-vibration-issue...found-and-fixed.html
That play seems normal. My Ford has that carrier bearing for the "half shaft" (Ford calls it intermediate shaft). Have you seen those bearings howl like a bad wheel bearing under load?
I think I replaced both wheel bearing thinking it was the problem, going to change that axle and check that bearing too,I get a little almost up and down shaking when acc. And it sounds like a bad wheelbearing,
Hey, I have '05 Accord EX with 2.4L gasoline engine, and I can feel shaking on acceleration, but only between 25 and 35 km/h. It's shaking in every gear (1,2,3), so I guess it's not the gearbox... I can't hear any weird sound... it just shakes (vibrates). Due to the problem I replaced both shafts (including CV joints) and also the bearing on the right, which holds the right shaft. I'm out of ideas :) Any suggestion?
same on my 03 Accord TypeS 2.4, new axels(aftermarket), and the vibrtating still betweeen 30-40 km/h
I am guessing you may have installed new AFTERMARKET axles? If so, that most likely is the issue. New HONDA parts usually work much better.
Do you have any experience with the 2nd gen tsx 2.4i (Or Honda Accord CU2 for me in the UK) driveshafts? I've had horrible shaking/vibration with any type of acceleration beyond 50mph much worse when going up any kind of hill, I've taken the car to a few independent shops who seem to be in the same opinion of driveshaft but unable to fix as they can't source parts.
I'm just after some advice how to get this car sorted before I go down the road of spending a fortune at a Honda dealership.
I would stick by needing a new right side inner joint. We can ship parts to the UK...just in case we can help.
I changed both my drive shafts on my second Gen TSX because I know they snap at the joint where the bushing is. This morning I’m getting vibration at higher speeds, however I suspect it’s my tires. The vibration is not steady, it vibrates, the. Stops then vibrates again all while driving. Could be the roads. Not sure.
hello,
Can you help me answer my question? So just replace both CV joints on my car (08 honda accord sedan i4) and I have noticed that the passenger CV joint is also able to move in and out just like in this video but a little further out that I can able to see the gear's teeth but it won't fall off thanks to the set ring inside the intermediate shaft. I can push it in or out just by hand! I hope that is normal?!
Mine exactly 2012 honda accord. Im assuming you just did joints and not the intermediate shaft? do you get vibrations? I realize this is a 4 years old comment. hope you see.
They're designed to move in and out, after the cup part. To allow for the suspension movement up and down, the CV needs to change length within that cup.
Could it be a mount causing the vibration? TSX has 3 motor mounts and 3 transmission mounts. Engine shakes vigorously when operating, especially when raising RPMs (acceleration).
Shakes even when at idle?
07 accord manual, I’m having a shaking from the front end passenger side, mostly only in second gear, I replaced the axles (aftermarket) and replaced the intermediate shaft and I’m still having this issue, checked all motor and transmission mounts my mechanic thinks it could be my clutch but I’m not sure do you recommend replacing the aftermarket axles to OEM ones?
You need to take out the aftermarket right axle and install a factory Honda one. That should do it.
Quick question…I’m chasing a steering vibration and I was wondering if that play in and out is normal between the intermediate shaft and right cv axle..everything is OEM…actually the axles have 12k miles on it…I drive a Honda accord 2016 Sport…thanks
This play is not indicative of a problem. The wear happens on the inside of the axle joint.
Flat spots on your tires could definitely be the issue. Jack the car up and spin the wheels and watch very closely.
So in that same intermediate shaft while my cv is still connected to hub/tire i can push the cv joint up and actually move it almost 2 inches and expose the splines inside the intermediate shaft. That must be it broken?? Car has vibrations and the classic clicking when turning opposite direction. But the fact i can actually expose my splines inside the intermediate shaft concerns me. Is that normal or no? 2012 honda accord se.
"move it almost 2 inches and expose the splines" that sounds excessive for sure. Clicking while turning is an outer joint issue. Sounds like you maybe need a complete new axle.
@@Heeltoe. 1 year later. Im driving my axle pops off the intermediate shaft and grinded like crazy making my car rev and not move. Removed the joint to find out last install buddy didnt use a c clip (set ring) on the intermediate shaft to lock it in. Now the end of my intermediate shaft and start of cv joint are stripped. Bought the ring hoping it will install fine and wont have long term issues.
I replaced everything upfront from axels to motor mounts to coils to wheels ,everything I could think of so it has to be that half shaft or Inter bearing right?
Did you get OEM axles?
@@Heeltoe. yes
@@Heeltoe.Was you getting intermittent clunking over bumps
2007 acura tl types both axles replaced by acura of Charleston and still vibrating all the time it gets worse in fifth gear I think,. really hard to tell anymore what a pain...road force balance ,brand new nittos. , about to go back and check balance and alignment one last time...saga continues..
diazo989 ive heard of this road force balance is that a special machine they use? Its def recommended ive heard
diazo989 I have the same vibration. Right when it shifts to fifth and I’m going about 50 to 60 mph it shakes like crazy. I mostly does it when it’s cold and when it warms up it kinda goes away. I’ve replaced both the cv axles but not the intermediate shaft. It’s such a pain to get to the intermediate shaft because of the large v6. Almost need to drop the j pipe to get access.
A little off topic..but what kind of Oil filter are you using ?
I usually use Honda, Bosch, or Wix filters.
I just had dealer replace both axles on my 4th Gen TL, non AWD. one factory, one aftermarket because they couldn't get part. Reduced vibration but not cured. There was no vibration earlier.
+TRAVIS SIMMS They should have probably just done the inner joint on the other side
I have a question for you I had new axles installed on both sides and it replaced the vibration I was dealing with but all of a sudden there now is the same vibration only at 25 - 30 mph right after i changed with changed with afternoon axles. What could cause that ?
Aftermarket axles. You need genuine Acura axles. At least on the right side.
@Heeltoe is this the same for honda accord? That's the vehicle I own. Also will driving with it like this do Amy damage? have been doing it for months. If I accelerate rather quickly I don't even feel it.
Can this affect the steering? Both my TL and Accord have some vibration and have wobbly steering in spite of the suspensions being in good shape or new.
A worn inner axle joint will cause shaking in the steering, yes.
@@Heeltoe. Hmmm thanks for replying. I definitely notice that if I turn the wheel lock to lock while stopped my steering feels numb after and has some vibration. I'm going to check this next time I'm on a lift. Thanks. I appreciate the feedback.
@@midnightmystery544 check the rack and pinion
@@Machchikn thanks
Do you know what could cause vibrations felt through steering wheel when driving at certain engine RPM regardless of speed? I have 2019 Honda Civic and those vibrations started a few weeks ago and no one knows what is the cause. The only issue found is excessive play in both inner axle joints, or at least independent shops say it's way too much, Honda dealership says that it's fine... Vibrations are strongest when driving 50-70 km/h at 1300 rpm - that's what CVT sets in D mode.
Honestly it is hard for us to say over the messages here. The issue needs better diagnosis it seems.
I have a vibration in my 04 Honda accord when accelerating but only in second gear the rest of the gears are fine, I'm thinking it is in the transmission. Just replaced both half shafts but not the intermediate shaft
Have you change the jack shaft?
have you solved the problem? If yes, what was that? Mine has a same problem
I’m having the same issue, how did you fix it?
My engine vibrates at idle with ac on what could be my issue common problem with tsx any ideas thanks
Same here could be your motor mounts
Engine mounts, or possibly you need a valve adjustment.
I had same problem with aftermarket cv axles then decided to install cardone CV axle and problem went away
The amount of play there is very little some of us its a lot more, this could explain why your car is smooth.
I don't believe so, but maybe?
On a 2011 Toyota Sienna, I do have a bolt on my half shaft that actually tightens up the bearing. If that bolt isn’t tight, could it cause vibration?
These do not work that way.
Thank you!
You bet!
So I feel the vibration under acceleration, but it's felt more "in the seat" vs. felt through the steering wheel. Does this still sound like the CV joint?
Possibly? It is possible yes.
Before I drop a few hundred bucks on your kit. My car vibrates pretty good at any speed if I mash the gas. I can rev the engine, without any vibration. Vibration does seem to get worse faster I go. I have replaced the struts, tie rods, rear upper control arms, sway bar links, tires, got all tires balanced....still have this issue. What test can we do to confirm the inner joint is the culprit. I jacked the car up and grabbed the cv shaft and the passenger side has slight, not a lot, slight play. The drivers side has zero.
@@lukeyna1 You might also inspect the engine mounts thoroughly. You can also open the inner joint and inspect the cup for wear: www.heeltoeauto.com/news/04-08-acura-tsx-axle-vibration-issue...found-and-fixed.html
Dd u solve this problem yet
@@christopherholm5607 purchased a few different cv axles from rock auto and one of them worked without issue.
The vibration you would feel with high speed or rough acceleration is due the the CV axles, if you already did a wheel balance and alignment and the vibration is still there then the CV axles are your problem I would also recommend changing the intermediate shaft as well.
More specifically, we have identified vibration during acceleration, even mild acceleration at slower or specific speeds, to be axle issues. A wheel balance is specifically characterized with steady state cruise at 60+ mph. Alignment, we have not seen this be the root cause of a vibration issue except when it causes extreme uneaven tire wear and it throws off the balance. The intermediate shaft on these cars we have found to be a red herring in nearly all cases. I can't say I have every truly seen one go bad.
Hi,I have Accord CL7 2.4 140kw benzin,need to replace both cv joints,but in my country is very hard to find.Does anyone knows if I can take parts from other honda models?tnx
Mine moves way more than that and the car is making a clunking sound because of it I think
Yea the cup grinds needs to be changed that were the sounds coming from not good probably dry and has water and dirt in it
Changed tires and brake rotors. Nothing. Changed inner cv joint it goes better now but not fixed. I think is the intermiate shaft the problem. I will try to build a new one better. And say to you. The oem new is 600 euro
Did you change both sides inner joints?
@@Heeltoe. only passengers side. I think passengers side get bend with the time. Its my next step. Inner and outer cv joints are ok, no damage so it must be the problem. Media shaft is ok too
Off topic,but if you have a 98 acura cl or 98 accord or that Gen. And sometimes it won't start when it's hot,but it turns over,Replace Ignition coil,I replaced master relay,ignition switch,and it still did it,finally changed ig. Coil and it fixed the proble.
Lol yeah very off topic. Thanks for the comment.
@@Heeltoe. question, what's the name of the bearing that the driverside CV axle goes through, the one in the picture of this video,it's inside the bracket houseing?housing? What's it's name,I need to change mine
@@joecrowe7062 It is part of the intermediate shaft or jack shaft.
@@Heeltoe. thank you,so does the cv axle plug into it,or does it slide on to the axle when the whole axle is pulled out
Asking because I changed both wheelbearings on drive and pass side even tho they were tight,and I have a bearing noise still,pass side cv axle is changed to,going to do driver side very soon
Back again,could it be motor mount are bad,so motor is not lined up so axle is not lined up hhhmmmm
rsx have the same issue?
Yes. Mine moves up and down badly. Passenger axle. A little side to side play is normal. Any kseries passenger axle has problems eventually.
mine is vibrating around 45-60mph both on and off gas in that range. just started after replacing my ball joints. Anybody have tips for narrowing down the part? Tire shop said I need to replace my left lower control arm. But that would just cause clunking and weird steering wouldnt it?
I have a 2004 honda accord lx with the 3.0, i replaced the passenger side axle shaft but the vibration is still there so i will try the inner shaft next and give you the update, thanks very much for the video
Did you get a factory axle? If so, consider changing the left side as well. If not consider getting a factory axle.
what happened? did it fix it
Did the intermate shaft fix it?
Did you fix it? It's been two years you must have fixed it by now lol🎉
I have an 11 accord v6. I get vibration under acceleration 60mph - 75. I have had one mechanic telle torque converter clutch slipping. And another tell me axles. I am going to one more shop tomorrow for a 3rd opinion. I have done a drain and fill with the tranny fluid and found no metal shavings. I have been driving like this for a year and still can't figure out a solution. I hope it's only some axles. Only 120k miles on the car.
It is due to worn inner axle joints. Is the car auto or manual?
@@Heeltoe. the car is auto. I really hope you are correct. What should I tell the shop to check tomorrow specifically?
If my axle is not tight enough to shaft assembly, what should I do? (can I hit the end of the axle (without unscrewing lower, upper joint bolts)) (just unscrew an axle nut and hit the axle end with a rubber hummer? )
Where is it not tight? Like in the video?
On my 97 Acura Integra I have a super hard clunking sound and vibration when the vehicle is in motion. It's so bad I wear headphones while driving.
I replaced both axles to see if it would solve the problem but no. Replaced tie rods too. Seeing a pivotal difference at the half shaft bearing though
It didn't fix thr problem replacing the half shaft or both axles again. Must be my wheel bearing
Dd u solve it yet... Same problem here
@christopher holm yes I replaced the spindle and the noise went away. It was a bad wheel bearing, but a spindle was $40 at a junkyard
@@eibura5978 was this sound only happening when u mainly accelerate??
@christopher holm it happened anytime i was moving. Even when coasting in neutral. The car vibrated and everything
My dad's 2010 honda accord has the vibration issue. I ended up replacing both inner and outer axel assemblies. Still having the issue. Both parts cost close to 500 dollars each so I am not sure if he will now replace the driver side to see if that corrects the issue. The engine mounts seem fine. I'll let you guys know if there is any updates.
Thank you! Is it a 4cyl or V6?
Any up dates bro?
@@kanefowler434 hi. Yes it was the driver side axle in my dad's case that was the problem. His suspension was factory so we were able to go with a autozone brand axle on the driver side and it took care of the problem. We saw the inside axel house having deep spots by the bearings. Not sure how that happens. th-cam.com/video/52nRcaHrTbE/w-d-xo.html
If the problem is with the right side axle, we've only really found that genuine OEM parts fix it. For the left side you can get pretty much any axle and they work fine. Never seen it be an intermediate shaft.
Thanks for letting us know...smmfh empty promises
My rsx has wayyy more play in that bearing lol been chasing this vibration for almost 2 years. Only thing ive done is traded wheels and new tires. Tires helped alot. Still feel it just a little around 70mph. But also my axle is bad. Just about all my mounts are bad and supposedly the passenger mount causes wheel vibration. And I need new brakes lol. Doesnt get worse when i brake but people tell me its the caliper not disengaging all the way and still making contact when drive. Who knows lol
Definitely need to replace the axles. I had a lot of shaking around 70 mph. Bought some insane shafts 500hp axles and it feels like a new car.
@@keithuzzell8486 turned out it was my front rotors. Weird Cuz it would shake without applying brakes. That axle still moves around the same lol
Hey I'm having the same problem it only happens out of the blue from 40-60 mph for a minute I can't figure it out tbh
Shakes while accelerating only?
Hey I have 04 tsx 6 speed and it has this vibration on acceleration between 18-23 and comes back at around 60ish, would I have to replace the driver side axle? I replaced passenger side axle a few months back when I first got the car, TIA.
We would do the right side inner joint with a factory part if you put an aftermarket one in before, and yes also do the left side one.
HeeltoeAuto thanks for the reply, I didn’t replace with an OEM axle but because the boots were ripped, and the wobble wasn’t occurring at the time. But now that it is here I’m thinking of replacing both axles bc I replaced the outter tie rods as the bushing were shot thinking it was that but it only toned down the vibration so I’m thinking it’s the driver side axle
HeeltoeAuto also I feel it under my seat mostly coming from driver side when I have someone else drive and I’m in passager seat it’s not as aggressive as it would be if I were in the driver seat
Ahh_Darkey did you ever figure it out? been trying to figure this same issue out for months
Use sound checking head phones. on the lift drive mode.
Wut?
@@Heeltoe. I believe he means chassis ears
what about when you move the axle joint side to side up and down (grab hold the inner cv joint)? here you have shown in and out, and twisting around (torsional as you called it)
could also be the shaft/bearing within the differential that the axle splines goes into?
could also be a bad differential/transmission causing vibrations??
is this 2wd/4wd?? is there a transfer case??
It could be many things causing the vibration. The point of the video is to show that the movement we have observed is NOT the cause.
Hey I've got WAY more play than this, also a audible clunk on/off throttle, I cant find anything else, do you think it could be the intermediate shaft bearing?
Ben McGroarty either your axle isn’t in all the way or it’s your wheel bearing that’s what was wrong with mine
THX U SO MUCH FOR THE VIDEO
Does anybody know where i can find an intermediate shaft for my 2011 Honda Accord 2.4l? The auto parts stores can't even get them.
On heeltoe: www.heeltoeauto.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=08+accord+intermediate
I have 2006 2.4 Euro Honda Accord CL9 with 159k Miles on clock, and its same situation. I have slight play, but no vibrations at all during accelerating or crussing.
+Marcin Markiewicz alot of cars have play around the inner joint. most cars if u grab the inner axle joint on most cars they will have play up and down.
between all the bearings and the diff, and splines in the shaft it all adds up to a little bit of play. ive seen this on most of my own cars.
U can buy a UPDATED inner cv joint from honda for about 150, seems like not alot of people trust the oem joints, but honda did have a update and changed the part number. so they are aware of the problem and have made a better part.
on my own car a 04 TL 6mt the vibration comes and go's. i have had it so i dont feel the vibration for a week then one day it would vibarate from 20mph up till i hit about 45-49mph it would do it the first time i drove it that day then would not do it again for another week.
i know its a axle problem but want to looking it further. it feels like there fix-a-flat in the tire. its starts to vibarate then gos away after about 60 sec of driving
Honda Freak
Honda Freak
My auto rsx has clunking/rattle noise while idling in reverse and drive and vibration in steering wheel over 60mph.
So I have a 2005 honda 3.0l v6 6speed I've had this really bad vibration at 50-65mph and then it slows down when I'm at 80mph but anything under 50mph no vibration so I thought it was my rims & tires swapped all 4 out & then broke them down cleaned my rim bead put it all bck together & rebalanced all 4 with inner & outter weights put them bck on the car same vibration...so I changed upper & lower control arms , inner & outer tie rods aligned it ,, lower ball joints , sway links & bushings, calipers , brakes , brake hoses , rotors , cv axles and I still have the same dam vibration the next move is mounts...PLZ PLZ PLZ PLZ HELP ME...
CV Axles...what brand did you get?
@@Heeltoe. I bought them from orileys autoparts
@@Heeltoe. I also found that the jack shaft has way to much play in it from the barring so I went out & bought a used one from the junk yard same yr make & model & this jack shaft has no play in the barring at all...so I. Gunna glean it up and lube both ends & swap it out here in the next couple weeks to see if that's the issue bcuz thats what I'm 75/25% leading towards
Mine does it in neutral around 1500rpm any answers?
Your car vibrates at 1500 in neutral at a stop?
I have the same problem, my car vibrates a little at stop around 2000 to 3000 rpms
And then when driving it gets worse
It shakes the entire car
I have a 2015 Honda Civic Si
Mine just broke where the bearing is and snapped the splines off from the axle
Damn!
Dd the sound go away after replacing shaft coz mine still clicking
I'm getting excessive play up and down on 3 different axles where they connect to the half shaft. Being a machinist My question is what's the difference from OEM and aftermarket shafts?
I have no idea. But this play is not causing me any problems whatsoever.
@@Heeltoe.
The up and down movement from female CV (axle) to the half shaft (male spline) isn't giving you problems? There is roughly 2.5 inches of spline engagement if made correctly there should be miniscule movement. Basically enough clearance for them to slide in and out to accommodate for Bumps in the road.
@@Heeltoe.
So if that slop is normal what is causing so many people the excessive vibration on acceleration and at high speed?
@@Heeltoe.
Are you saying that the issue is in the CV itself? Like if I were to just replace the end with your OEM kit it would prob take care of the issue? How often have you seen somebody by the CV end kit that you sell and still have the problem
@@josephfields5148 Yes a new inner joint resolves the issue, they wear on the inside. I have not sold people new joints and have that not fix the issue to my knowledge.
Whats It Is the problem
I honestly don't know what causes the vibration but it isn't this play.
I'm having the same problem on my 2012 civic si. the vibration is crazy going above 70mph+. I replaced the passenger with a oem CV axle. and it's still the same issue. can't figure it out.
Try the left side also.
Had a 2013 Civic with the same issue. Replaced both axles and still felt vibration. Got fed up and traded the car in
@@farrockpr Did you replace them with aftermarket or OEM Honda axles?
Went with aftermarkets at autozone.
@@farrockpr That was your problem. You pretty much have to buy OEM axles on Honda/Acuras. Aftermarket ones are junk.
I have vibration issues at certain speeds even after I changed my axels
You may have installed aftermarket axles, right?
@@Heeltoe. yeah
I'm gonna change my Axel and see what happens.... Can't find carrier bearing for half shaft.... 1987 crx with D16A1 swap discontinued part what Honda says... Gonna take out bearing and measure it I guess if Axel don't fix.
Hi, I have a civic SI EH9 and yo u might consider the half shaft bearing . For your CRX carrier bearing ( part #91005-PC9-008 are available on ebay and www.bernardiparts.com)
I have a 2012 Acura tsx with 108 miles on it and I can feel the vibration in slow speed! Does anyone one knows the possibility?
You need a new right side inner joint, most likely.
Someone should take a video and figure it out.
For now the best advice we have is to avoid vibration use an OEM axle on the right side.
Skittle play is NORMAL!!
Warped rotors
Sounds like wheel bearing that’s what was wrong with mine
Wish wheel bearing? Mine vibrate during acceleration
Youre about to have vibrations soon😂
After a year and a half, no vibrations yet.
HeeltoeAuto I need a door side skirt for first gen CRX, u all sell them still..
Unrelated, but terrible oil filter location.
Ha yea it is pretty annoying there. Leaks all over the subframe.