I used your diagram and your informative discussion to wire in a $30 Harbor Freight Badland wireless remote to my Southland 14ft dump trailer. The diodes were about $6 from Amazon. It all works perfectly. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this!
You overly enabled people with an understanding of electrical gizzymo's have trouble explaining these things to us equally under enabled folks, (namely me).Mr. Brad has a better than average understanding of mechanics in many facets
Excellent. Thank you. I'm going to give this a try on my 40' PJ deck-over. It has hydraulic jacks and a full width hydraulic folding ramp. You just flip a diverter lever in the toolbox to select which end of the trailer you want the pump to run. It will be convenient to be able to raise an lower the trailer while I back under it, and it's a pretty hotshot looking time saver to pull up to a job and have the big ramp already folding down before I'm even out of the truck. Just have to remember to leave the diverter in the correct position. It would not look so cool if you pulled up to a job and started putting the jacks down instead of the ramp.
I too have the same dump trailer as you. I got lucky ordered it on a Wednesday and picked it up the next Tuesday. I will be attempting the wireless remote this weekend.
We are swamped here in NY also, hopefully the weather makes a turn of the better soon. Great job explaing the wiring on the remote, looks like a super helpful upgrade.
I was able to wire mine up as well. Mine does gravity to lower so it was much easier for me to setup. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
@@jamietweed6606 Sorry I was looking for pictures of how I had it wired for you and could not them. I used a volt meter and set it to buzz. Then I touched the various wires that are on the solenoid and the ground until I found the one that buzzed once I pressed the up button.
GREAT video Brad! I had talked earlier about doing a video on this but realized the installation on my trailer was for a gravity down scenario. When I found out your trailer (and many others) were power up and power down I abandoned the video idea since I couldn’t address how to do it for all scenarios. You did a fantastic job showing the need for the diodes and how they are wired. You will love having this wireless control. I use mine constantly.
I would imagine the gravity down option would not need a wire from valve down wire to the silonoid. Just wire from the wireless contoller to the down valve. So only the up wire is wired to the silonoid. In this case you wouldn't need dieods as only the up wire is connected to the silonoid. My scenario is gravity down so I'll try to wire mine this way
Good Work! I just wish you would have drawn in a wireless remote in your diagram, the one you drew I thought was the remote for wireless, and spent 30 seconds yelling at you, Ha ha, but then you made it clearer what you were doing, and I had to eat my words. You will really enjoy this new set up, more efficient , productive, but also a more professional appearance. Well Done.
Good video Brad. I use the same remote for my car hauler to winch cars in/out of trailer. I finally got my reverse infrared camera on order, gonna put on back of the dump trailer and a LED light for nite work. -Dave
Hi Brad. Thanks for another great video. I just did this to my trailer. I have a Cam Superline 6’x10’ dump trailer. My trailer is power up only. It was an easy conversion. Wired it in parallel with the cord. Cam had a wiring schematic and a layout of the actual components. I wired the up wire directly to the relay for the pump and the down wire to the valve for letting the pressure out. Works great for me and I didn’t need the diodes. Keep the great content coming!
Thanks Brad. I didn't know you could do that. I'm definitely going to that to my trailer. I thought I knew everything, but you proved me wrong By the way, 5 below zero, April 13th in Southwest Montana.
Thanks a lot!! I'm glad this came up on my feed. I researched this awhile ago when I bought my trailer and didn't find many videos that really answered my questions. I'm ordering the remotes and diodes you linked. My 14 ft. dump trailer is also power up and down. I agree on the power down because I had an E-Z Dumper on a truck years back and it was gravity down. Many times I'd have to hang on it while pushing the down button to get it to go and was a pain in the cold when the oil was stiff etc; Drive On!
I like your video!! The KTI remote I use has an external antenna which can be a PIA to mount. Since I purchased a second dump trailer, Im going to order the remote you installed and give it a try. If it works, will ditch the other one. Have a Safe Day
Nice intro! Brad, you did an excellent job on explaining this. The paper and colored markers was a great way to illustrate this. I now have to think of another idea for an upcoming video LOL. I literally just ordered the stuff to do this yesterday! I guess what they say about great minds is true....... Have a great day!
Well I’m sure you could elaborate or show something different than I did. I know when I look for how to videos, I watch several. Thanks for stopping by my friend
Awesome bud I just ordered the stuff,can't belive I didn't think of this,probably because my remote reaches the cab "short bed" but thanks for the tip!
Thanks for showing this remote. I wanted one for my trailer, I just never took the time to do it. I put it on today and also added a programmable timer to it for the gravity down function so I can push the button to go down once and it holds the solenoid open for 60 seconds and I don't have to worry about forgetting it. It cancels after 60 seconds. I can also push the button again and it cancels and the trailer stops going down if something happens.
Brad another amazing video!!! I loved the diagram you drew out but id have to come to perryville to put my hands on it and see what you did. I learn best by learning hands on
I had bought the same one from Amazon Canada.. been hesitant of trying to connect it cause I got messed up with the diode part of it... thanks for explaining.. I think I can do it now!!..
One question 1 amp diodes thank you for taking the time to make the video I got everything set up and it sounded like it wanted to work at first but won't do anything I can feel something clicked in the transmitter but that is about it
Well done on the diagram and your explaination. I hope to have a dump trailer one day and will be liking your video for reference. Do the diodes last a long time? I've never used them before.
This was Ez pz. For those with the Kaufman dump / bucket hydraulic pump. The wire you are looking to use for activating the pump is the very top one, and the up selenoid is on the “drivers side” down is on “passenger side”
Brad, great video explaining how to wire the wireless remote into the dump trailer. I do have one concern. Is there a kill switch for the wireless remote? My concern is some stray signal triggering the remote and raising the dump bed while you are rolling down the highway. A simple solution would be to install an on/off switch that opens and closes the negative wire on the remote receiver. Just my thoughts. Enjoy the journey - cheers
Hey, I have the same trailer as you have. I try do same connections and buy same control and diode and put exactly how you put it. When I finish connect everything, it was working well 2-3 times. But I noticed after, I saw smoke coming from the diode. I wondering what it could be, maybe diode too small? What you think?
Maybe I’m missing something but I can’t understand why replacing a manual switch on an DC circuit with a remote switch requires a diode at all. How did the current know what to do on the old system where suddenly It doesn’t now?
Wandering if anyone knows that the wireless receiver has a continuous amp draw and will run your battery down if you don't put in some sort of a power cut off switch to the hot lead of the wireless receiver. This can also be done without the diodes by using fused relays. I did a 300 amp Blue Sea battery cut off switch that disconnects all power to everything except for the DC to DC charger from the truck and Solar input charger to the battery.
@@FirewoodattheFurnace no ya I understand that. But the full time power and ground that u have running from the battery. couldnt that just be run from the fulltime power and ground that is on the pump? Your set up is different than mine as to where the battery is right next to the pump so it doesnt matter as much but my battery is like 4 feet away
I bought the same wireless controller from Amazon. Has the up and down instead of in and out. Bought the same diodes. My pump is the same brand as yours but a different model. I tried the tester to find out which terminal was up and down. Hooked tester to ground and tried both terminals but nothing happened. I push the up button and nothing. Push the down button and nothing. Now I still dont know which is which. I used the test light on something else to be sure it worked and it did. I opened the box on the end of the cord to see which wire was connected to the up and down button. Green was on the up and red on the down. I can clearly see the the green wire from the cord going to one terminal and the red going to the other terminal. So I guess I now know which is up and which is down. I wired everything according to your drawing and It don’t work. Also there is a second wire on both terminals that come together and connect to a screw on the side of the pump. I assume this is some sort of ground. But the two wires, one from each terminal tie together and are connected to a screw on the pump. These extra wires coming off my terminals are the only thing different from your terminals. I noticed your terminals had only one wire attached to each one. I careful wired everything like your drawing but it will not work. I push the up on the remote control and the receiver clicks. I push the down on the remote control and the solenoid clicks louder. Went over the wiring twice and watched your video over and over and I have it wired like your drawing and the diodes are in the right direction but it won’t work. The cord controller still works but not the wireless. I don’t know what else to do. If you have any suggestions I would very much like to hear them.
I used your diagram and your informative discussion to wire in a $30 Harbor Freight Badland wireless remote to my Southland 14ft dump trailer. The diodes were about $6 from Amazon. It all works perfectly. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this!
Glad it helped!
That’s a nice upgrade and for $30 you can’t beat it. Thanks for the good videos.
As an electrical engineer that's a great explanation of diode. I've always tried to explain in other terms how electronics work.
Thanks! I have zero electrical ability lol
You overly enabled people with an understanding of electrical gizzymo's have trouble explaining these things to us equally under enabled folks, (namely me).Mr. Brad has a better than average understanding of mechanics in many facets
Great video, I ended up ordering the parts to install on my dump trailer, Olso great explanation and drawing of how to wire it up
Excellent. Thank you. I'm going to give this a try on my 40' PJ deck-over.
It has hydraulic jacks and a full width hydraulic folding ramp. You just flip a diverter lever in the toolbox to select which end of the trailer you want the pump to run. It will be convenient to be able to raise an lower the trailer while I back under it, and it's a pretty hotshot looking time saver to pull up to a job and have the big ramp already folding down before I'm even out of the truck. Just have to remember to leave the diverter in the correct position. It would not look so cool if you pulled up to a job and started putting the jacks down instead of the ramp.
Definitely ready for the mud to dry up! Especially for running equipment like you new skid steer.
Best explanation and diagram I have found.
Thanks. I’m glad it was helpful for you
Morning Brad , very nice upgrade to the trailer. Thanks for explaining it so well and sharing !! Del
Brad, great program for remote control diagram!
Thank you for the new Hat! My wife said I could not wear it to church on Sunday!
Hope you enjoy 🤣
I'm saving this video! Thanks!
Hope it’s helpful
@FirewoodattheFurnace witch direction do you face the diodes
I too have the same dump trailer as you. I got lucky ordered it on a Wednesday and picked it up the next Tuesday. I will be attempting the wireless remote this weekend.
Excellent video! Glad you did the diagram, it really mapped it out.
Glad you liked it!
We are swamped here in NY also, hopefully the weather makes a turn of the better soon. Great job explaing the wiring on the remote, looks like a super helpful upgrade.
Thank you so much Brad for the information both items have been ordered
Great video! I am going to do this to my dump trailer!!!!
Nice, thanks for the tutorial!! Now all I need is a dump trailer 😁 as always, good job and keep up the great work Brad!
At 4:18 ,one of our trucks went by, I dont hear an air horn so I don't think it was me lol! Great video Brad!
Lol I always hear you!
I was able to wire mine up as well. Mine does gravity to lower so it was much easier for me to setup. Thank you for taking the time to make this video!
What did you do different for it to work?? I’m looking to add it to mine but mine is gravity down as well
@@jamietweed6606 Sorry I was looking for pictures of how I had it wired for you and could not them. I used a volt meter and set it to buzz. Then I touched the various wires that are on the solenoid and the ground until I found the one that buzzed once I pressed the up button.
GREAT video Brad! I had talked earlier about doing a video on this but realized the installation on my trailer was for a gravity down scenario. When I found out your trailer (and many others) were power up and power down I abandoned the video idea since I couldn’t address how to do it for all scenarios. You did a fantastic job showing the need for the diodes and how they are wired. You will love having this wireless control. I use mine constantly.
I would imagine the gravity down option would not need a wire from valve down wire to the silonoid. Just wire from the wireless contoller to the down valve. So only the up wire is wired to the silonoid. In this case you wouldn't need dieods as only the up wire is connected to the silonoid. My scenario is gravity down so I'll try to wire mine this way
@@markwinters1653this worked for me. Thank you!
You the man brother, doing this this weekend.
Nice!
Hi Brad. Thank you for your video. I just did it to my pj 20 k dump trailer it works. Thank you so much
Awesome! I’m glad it was helpful and thanks for watching
Thanks so much!!! I'm going to try this. On my trailer it was a $400 option for wireless....no way I'm paying that.
Hope it works for you!
Good Work! I just wish you would have drawn in a wireless remote in your diagram, the one you drew I thought was the remote for wireless, and spent 30 seconds yelling at you, Ha ha, but then you made it clearer what you were doing, and I had to eat my words. You will really enjoy this new set up, more efficient , productive, but also a more professional appearance. Well Done.
You were yelling at me?!?!? Lol thanks for watching Ben
Good video Brad. I use the same remote for my car hauler to winch cars in/out of trailer. I finally got my reverse infrared camera on order, gonna put on back of the dump trailer and a LED light for nite work. -Dave
Hi Brad. Thanks for another great video. I just did this to my trailer. I have a Cam Superline 6’x10’ dump trailer. My trailer is power up only. It was an easy conversion. Wired it in parallel with the cord. Cam had a wiring schematic and a layout of the actual components. I wired the up wire directly to the relay for the pump and the down wire to the valve for letting the pressure out. Works great for me and I didn’t need the diodes. Keep the great content coming!
I have the exact same trailer Chris. I installed my wireless remote a few years ago and wonder how I ever got by without it.
Thanks for clarifying that, I didn't think I would need the diodes if mine was up only. 😊
Simple as tasting pie. Thanks so much
Thanks Brad. I didn't know you could do that. I'm definitely going to that to my trailer. I thought I knew everything, but you proved me wrong
By the way, 5 below zero, April 13th in Southwest Montana.
BURR!!!! cold, it is 78 degrees in Central Va at 10:49 am. 4/13/22
🥶🥶🥶
I just ordered mine. Thanks for the video Sir
Glad it was helpful!
Definitely makes sense great explanation Brad!👍👍
Great information Brad, keep up the good work.
Definitely nice to be able to dump from the cab of the truck, although you will still have to get out to open the doors.
Thats great. Well explained. I understood. Thankyou.
Glad it helped!
That will make things alot easier good info
Nice upgrade on the trailer
Great job Brad.
Great video. Make sure you insulate those diode leads all the was so they wont get shorted out.
Thanks Brad! Ordered mine 👍
Thanks a lot!! I'm glad this came up on my feed. I researched this awhile ago when I bought my trailer and didn't find many videos that really answered my questions. I'm ordering the remotes and diodes you linked. My 14 ft. dump trailer is also power up and down. I agree on the power down because I had an E-Z Dumper on a truck years back and it was gravity down. Many times I'd have to hang on it while pushing the down button to get it to go and was a pain in the cold when the oil was stiff etc; Drive On!
Glad it was helpful to you! Thanks for watching
Nice upgrade Brad! 👍🏻👍🏻🥃🇺🇸🦅
I like your video!! The KTI remote I use has an external antenna which can be a PIA to mount. Since I purchased a second dump trailer, Im going to order the remote you installed and give it a try. If it works, will ditch the other one. Have a Safe Day
Nice intro! Brad, you did an excellent job on explaining this. The paper and colored markers was a great way to illustrate this. I now have to think of another idea for an upcoming video LOL. I literally just ordered the stuff to do this yesterday! I guess what they say about great minds is true....... Have a great day!
Well I’m sure you could elaborate or show something different than I did. I know when I look for how to videos, I watch several. Thanks for stopping by my friend
Nice…
Just bought a Midsota dump trailer and was wanting to do this.
Glad it was helpful
Awesome bud I just ordered the stuff,can't belive I didn't think of this,probably because my remote reaches the cab "short bed" but thanks for the tip!
Great explanation. I am now a subscriber.
Thank you and welcome to the channel! Hope you enjoy
nice job john
Great video and explanation!
Thank you. Hope it’s helpful
Thanks for showing this remote. I wanted one for my trailer, I just never took the time to do it. I put it on today and also added a programmable timer to it for the gravity down function so I can push the button to go down once and it holds the solenoid open for 60 seconds and I don't have to worry about forgetting it. It cancels after 60 seconds. I can also push the button again and it cancels and the trailer stops going down if something happens.
Nice! that’s a great idea
Great explanation.
Freaking awesome educational video.
Thank you. Hope it’s helpful
Brad another amazing video!!! I loved the diagram you drew out but id have to come to perryville to put my hands on it and see what you did. I learn best by learning hands on
Great video. I want to do tis to my flat bed with winch and my dump trailer, but my dump trailer to gravity down.
Great info. Thanks.
Great idea
Great video
I had bought the same one from Amazon Canada.. been hesitant of trying to connect it cause I got messed up with the diode part of it... thanks for explaining.. I think I can do it now!!..
There is a bunch of different diodes.. which one do I need?
Great. I was hoping it would help at least 1 person. Your the one! Lol. Thanks for watching
I put a link in the description of the video for the ones I bought
Good explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial.
My trailer came with a remote dump but it does not work. Now I know what to look for to see if I can repair it. Thanks for the info
My dump trailer has both power down and gravity down. How would i make the remote do gravity down?
Very nice!
Thanks Chris
That is very cool
I used a piggy back connector it works good
One question 1 amp diodes thank you for taking the time to make the video I got everything set up and it sounded like it wanted to work at first but won't do anything I can feel something clicked in the transmitter but that is about it
Many thanks.
Hope it was helpful
Where did you find the one that says up and down? I’m at my wits end. Thank you very much
It was on Amazon, but now I cant find it either...
Well done on the diagram and your explaination. I hope to have a dump trailer one day and will be liking your video for reference. Do the diodes last a long time? I've never used them before.
Thanks and I hope it’s helpful to you. This is my first time using them so I can’t give much feedback on that. Appreciate you watching
Was there Diodes already wired in for just the wired remote? It seems it would do the same thing under the wired remote only.
This was Ez pz. For those with the Kaufman dump / bucket hydraulic pump. The wire you are looking to use for activating the pump is the very top one, and the up selenoid is on the “drivers side” down is on “passenger side”
Brad, great video explaining how to wire the wireless remote into the dump trailer. I do have one concern. Is there a kill switch for the wireless remote? My concern is some stray signal triggering the remote and raising the dump bed while you are rolling down the highway. A simple solution would be to install an on/off switch that opens and closes the negative wire on the remote receiver. Just my thoughts. Enjoy the journey - cheers
There is a switch on the remote. But not for the wireless unit.
@@chrisartman6168 - Thanks, that is good information.
Hey, I have the same trailer as you have. I try do same connections and buy same control and diode and put exactly how you put it. When I finish connect everything, it was working well 2-3 times. But I noticed after, I saw smoke coming from the diode. I wondering what it could be, maybe diode too small? What you think?
How is the shed coming for the skid steer??????
Still have to get the stone in and the sides on
you had mentioned gravity down. How do you gravity down your power down trailer? or did i miss something? Ive just got myself a Puma G up ans G down
Do the diodes have to go in a certain direction
Maybe I’m missing something but I can’t understand why replacing a manual switch on an DC circuit with a remote switch requires a diode at all. How did the current know what to do on the old system where suddenly It doesn’t now?
Power up and power down trailers have to not allow the power to run backwards against each other
Does it draw power alot while not in use I use my trailer sparingly
I haven’t had any problems with draw
Why the original wiring control didn't need diodes? I have plan to make it work by handphone.
if your dump trailer is gravity down no diode is needed correct?
Yes that’s correct
What about the down wire coming off remote
Wandering if anyone knows that the wireless receiver has a continuous amp draw and will run your battery down if you don't put in some sort of a power cut off switch to the hot lead of the wireless receiver. This can also be done without the diodes by using fused relays.
I did a 300 amp Blue Sea battery cut off switch that disconnects all power to everything except for the DC to DC charger from the truck and Solar input charger to the battery.
I saw your email. Thanks!
I've kinda figured it out but I'm smoking my ground wire. Is it possible I can FaceTime you or something to walk me thru this?
What GA. of wire should I use?
I used 14 gauge
Best upgrade ever is a lion energy battery
just checking to see if it still works
Yes sure does. I find myself using the corded one still if I forget to grab the remote after I get out of the truck.
I ordered both but never received the diodes they said they were delivered, that was in May, have you heard of anyone else having trouble?
No but if you ordered from Amazon they normally will make it right
What rating size diodes?
15amp Diode Axial Schottky Blocking Diodes for Solar Cells Panel,15SQ045 Schottky Diodes 15A 45V (Pack of 10pcs)…
Thank you
What about gravity down?
For gravity down you don’t need the diodes. Just power to the motor for the up solenoid. For down you don’t need to run a wire to the motor
@@FirewoodattheFurnace very good. Thank you
@@FirewoodattheFurnace does this drain the battery when not in use?
Brad the link that you put in for the diode no longer works. Can you redo the link please or just send it to me. I'd appreciate it
How about if it doesn't work
Works great
Why not just plug into 12v and ground on the pump rather than running wires all the way to rhe battery?
I needs to open the relay first, then run the pump. without the diodes, it will try to pump up and down at the same time.
@@FirewoodattheFurnace no ya I understand that. But the full time power and ground that u have running from the battery. couldnt that just be run from the fulltime power and ground that is on the pump? Your set up is different than mine as to where the battery is right next to the pump so it doesnt matter as much but my battery is like 4 feet away
The link to diodes goes to a face mask
Are all men supposed to make sense?😇
Hey man would it be the same for power up and down for a hydraulic jack? I need to get remote with 4 functions
I bought the same wireless controller from Amazon. Has the up and down instead of in and out. Bought the same diodes. My pump is the same brand as yours but a different model. I tried the tester to find out which terminal was up and down. Hooked tester to ground and tried both terminals but nothing happened. I push the up button and nothing. Push the down button and nothing. Now I still dont know which is which. I used the test light on something else to be sure it worked and it did. I opened the box on the end of the cord to see which wire was connected to the up and down button. Green was on the up and red on the down. I can clearly see the the green wire from the cord going to one terminal and the red going to the other terminal. So I guess I now know which is up and which is down. I wired everything according to your drawing and It don’t work. Also there is a second wire on both terminals that come together and connect to a screw on the side of the pump. I assume this is some sort of ground. But the two wires, one from each terminal tie together and are connected to a screw on the pump. These extra wires coming off my terminals are the only thing different from your terminals. I noticed your terminals had only one wire attached to each one. I careful wired everything like your drawing but it will not work. I push the up on the remote control and the receiver clicks. I push the down on the remote control and the solenoid clicks louder. Went over the wiring twice and watched your video over and over and I have it wired like your drawing and the diodes are in the right direction but it won’t work. The cord controller still works but not the wireless. I don’t know what else to do. If you have any suggestions I would very much like to hear them.