I hadn't changed the spark plug th-cam.com/users/postUgkx-6W-PtUzBRTmACHywsECak2ToY2OpjxN in my Toro 20" Recycler in the 6 years I've had it but have been good with all other maintenance. This season I noticed it sputtering a little bit every so often and just didn't feel like it was running as smoothly or as powerful as it used to. Switched out the spark plug for a new one yesterday and could immediately tell an improved difference. So I may have to make this a little more regular than every 6 years, especially for a $5 part!
Not bad Mick.... But your knowledge of Multimeters was clearly basic...as you admitted. (BTW: That's not a bad meter for the price!) The Black lead ALWAYS goes to the COM (Common) socket. It is the red lead that gets switched around for different functions. When making simple resistance tests on the coils as you did....it is not really an issue..... Red wire, black wire....electricity is colour blind! However... if you were testing a battery and you put your two probes across the battery.... In your case, the red onto the +ve terminal and the black onto the -ve terminal... The display would read "-12v" (A car battery, say.) because you have reversed the connections to the meter. If you reconnect the meter leads as I say, Black to COM...the meter will read simply "12v"...as is the accepted display (NOT +12v...as one might expect.) It also gets a bit complicated when testing Diodes (Of which there are two in some 2 cylinder Ride-on Mowers for instance) This is because the meter supplies a voltage to check the flow direction... (A DC voltage obviously, from its own internal battery...just as it does to measure resistance...as you demonstrated.) So it is important to know which lead is actually +VE & which is -VE..... (Mind you: Most diode failures are either Open Circuit in both directions or shorted in both directions: Either result is a failure, of course.) Within these more modern coil packs, there is a couple of transistors arranged in a "Darlington-Pair" these eliminate the need for points as they switch current in the primary winding... causing the "Collapsing Magnetic field" which in turn causes the huge Step-up voltage in the secondary..... ....which of course, becomes the "Spark" we are always looking for at the spark plug..... (Phew.... Got there!) But, you are of course right.... basic resistance checks of the two windings will tell you if a pack is a duff one. Immediately. ...we need to remember: We are only checking two windings....not the trigger circuit electronics. And another factor I have found over the years..... A cold coil pack can work fine.... then goes bad as it warms up on the machine: Windings expand & short out. Due to heat or vibration....windings...or electronics? Who can say with such sealed units? It's the way of the world Folks!
Very good channel with great video. I have tested coils like this for years. Sometimes a coil will test good and then not work when it gets hot from the engine heat. If you have a coil that has a heat up problem you can take a bit of tractor trailer repair tape and wrap it around the coil body. This acts as a heat barrier and heat sink. The tape is aluminum on one side and black sticky tar on the other. Just cut a small piece and place it on the outer plastic body of the coil. This will keep the coil ast a constant temp. I believe the coil wires inside have thin or cracked insulation coating. The wire looks like it is bare but actualy has a coil of polymer. This polymer will crack and get hard over time. Then the coil voltage is affected. On hot days my tiller will stop running. The coil tests great when on the bench. After about 10 minutes of running it stops with no spark. The coil is directly over top the piston head and cooling fins. The heat rises and the coil starts to short internaly. I put the trailer repair tape on the bottom and wrapped it around to the top. The metal part of the coil does not get tape. I installed the coil and it has been working now for 5 seasons. Hope this fix can help someone with a similar problem.. Cheers!
The bad ones are bad- Sec side tested. BUT the good ones can STILL be bad as the primary and switching in the modules can fail. really only way to be sure is check for spark when on machine or swap with known good. Also you can have heat breakdown in the windings causing HOT shorting and failure but starts cold well and will start to misfire/fail when hot after running a while. Caused by insulation material burning off inside and wires touching and thus less coil windings for good spark and you MAY still get a weak spark but it wont fire the mixture. or a little bit only. Very messy to diagnose as it seems engine runs well for 20 mins then vapour lock? with fuel starvation or a bad coil cutting out then.
Thanks from Texas! I bought a cheap Amazon coil and it only lasted about a year. I bought another cheap Amazon coil because they are about 1/4 the price of an OEM coil, and since they only take about 20 minutes to switch out, I'll take my chances again. Its great to be able to test these coils and KNOW if they work or not! For those who don't own a set of gap spacers, a regular business card works just as well to set the gap from the engine.
Just gave you thumbs up #300 Mate! I've missed a few of your videos, and for that I apologize! I am a bit busy and there are a lot of us small engine guys out there that I try to keep up with. It was great chatting on the LS yesterday. Hope all is well! Cheers Mate! Zip~
Thanks Mick !! That was easy ! I have been trying to learn about small engines through your channel and a few others and until now haven't seen one on testing coils. Much appreciated
2nd video saying red into com. I put black into com. Doing so I put red on positive battery and black on negative and I see positive voltage. Putting red in com would show me negative voltage with red on positive battery.
So this test is the test basically for all coils mine is on a 12.5 Kohler very informative & many thanks perfect timing discovered no spark yesterday ! Will proceed with mounted coil of course saves work leaving installed if good coil ! 👍
i tesed both my coils and 2 different muti meters. i couldnt get readings on any of the points you describe testing. all thought my machine runs? im testing on clean metal as well so its not a connection issue......
Good video Bloke. However, the older Briggs & Stratton coil has three coils inside, plus a couple of transistors that control the direction of the currrent flow in the primary. I.e, there's the high voltage winding that you're checking, but there's also the primary winding plus a trigger winding on that little metal post on the bottom of the coil. No way to check either the primary or the trigger winding, or the transistors, as far as I know. Just something to keep in mind. Cheers!
I checked the continuity on the coil and all is good but the mower still won't start? Cleaned the spark plug the carb is pumping fuel and it still won't start, so what else could it be? Thank you
Maybe I'm wrong, but is the iron core not a single piece ? With the primary and secondary coils wound around the centre part ? Then it stands to reason that with one lead plugged into the spark plug connector and the other lead alternating between the left and right metal pick up above the magneto ... would result in exactly the same readings. You're taking two readings from the same metal core.
check coil with plug resister on reads 16.234 ohms take off resister reads 1.28 ohms brand NEW COIL . TWO POLE COIL SUFFOLK PUNCH 43S COST £135 98 + PP your comment please RAY
Great video Mick. A multimeter is a very useful tool. Use mine all the time. In fact used this morning to prove to my brother in law it was because the battery was flat that my sister’s vehicle wouldn’t start. He swore blind he had a battery charger on it an he had charged it up. Anyway after an hour of charging she started up no problem. Saved them calling a mechanic for a 1 minute test with a cheap multimeter!
Mick, I have a faulty Victa twin mower, twin spark coil, and no new ones are available. How can I now adapt a two pole type twin spark coil to the magneto and still get the timing right, and is that a possibility anyway. The Victa coil has 3 poles to it with the middle pole going thru the centre of the coil. (W type, not a U type) Is that possible? Or maybe you know where some 3 pole coils are still made or can be bought? I
Ok, it is good way to test coil.. But do you set your multimetar on just 200 ohms whan you were test ignition or you put that on MegaOhms ? Off course 6.22 is not in Megaohms because no have much multimetars which has that range for testing, us usually 2M . I was test my coil , and I didn't get nothing clouse of this numbers , my resistance is a lot of bigger , and I had 500K , and I did same method of testing as you did here and , from my opinion if is resist to big that means actually that coil is damaged and if is resist a high than is a low capacity of magnet or electrity inside the coil. And that means is need to replace that part ! Is possible to flywheel makes a bad contact in the spark ? So what you think ?
But what was the coil resistance 6.22 what ? 6.22k 6.22MOhms ??? The resistance makes a BIG a difference between an open circuit, shorted turns = no output
well done. I suggest before throwing out that Honda coil, check the plug end on the plug wire - the end screws onto the wire and sometimes if that's done multiple times, the wire becomes buggered, breaking the contact. The wire also screws into the coil itself - check that end as well. The briggs coils all have the wire manufactured right into the coil itself, but the end can be check on some this way as well.
Thank you for explaining this Mick. Have ordered one right now, takes the guesswork out of it and replacing coils just in case. If you are on a tight budget might save someone that bit of money.
Resistance readings from a coil/CDI unit, will indicate if there is an open circuit, but not whether the insulation or semiconductors are breaking down when running.
You can have good resistance readings on a coil and it can still be bad. This test does not test the condition of the semiconductors within the ignition module. A spark test at pull cord rpm's would be a more accurate test.
@@patagualianmostly7437 Not quite my friend. if there is corrosion between the coil body and the engine then you will get no spark and my friend you will have spent out on a coil for nothing. how many coils have you replaced on you're change the plug principal? maybe you were throwing good coils out when you didn't need to? A £10-00 millimetre may have saved you money. Great tutorial as usual Sir Micks
Yes, but I think the coils shown were not electronic. I agree, if electronic then you can have a good testing coil on the bench. But I may have an intermittent fault. This can happen after a short run when a component in the electronics intermittently fails .
Christ! I hate every damn video has a friggin beginner's guide to life ! Just tell us what setting you set your making noises and number digty! Then DEMONSTRATE! OR YOU NEED TO USE THE PUBLIC SPEAKING METHOD TELL HIM WHAT YOU GOING TO TELL 'IM. THEN TELL EM. AT THE DAIN! DONE-GONE ENDING GUESS WHAT?? TELL EMS WHAT YOU TOLD EM. UH HUH!
I was chill. Probably could be in not all caps... I wasn't being genuinely mad & at the same time I snuck and hid a bit of advice in there. You should assume that your audience is competent and knows how to properly use the tools that will be required to perform the same tasks that will be showcased. Also the format should resemble the structure of a public speaking event. Ie In a presentation, you 'present' or introduce something (a product, an idea, financial results, a project etc) to your audience. You give a presentation because you want to 'communicate' something. Generally, you want to do one of four things. You want: to inform to train to persuade to sell A presentation is one of the best ways of communicating your message. General Structure of a memorable presentation. A good presentation has a clear structure, like a good book or film. A good presentation has: a beginning (introduction & preview) - tell them what you are going to tell them. a middle (main message) tell them. an end (review & conclusion) tell them what you told them.
whoa I thought anything over 5k was too high? Briggs and Stratton says 2.5 k - 5 k, above 5k they were aged and beginning to go bad. I've heard they go up from 2.5ish to 5k over time. My dad's was reading 6.8k so we ordered another. Hope I didn't mess up.
hello and thank you very much for the video. My AL-KO_470br petrol lawn mower with Briggs&Stratton-625 engine no longer starts. I changed the carburettor and the spark plug but it didn't work. Now I have ordered a new ignition coil and tested the old ignition coil according to your video clip. I set 20k ohms on the multimeter and got values of 10.5 on the magnets. Is this value OK? Then the ignition coil would not be defective, but the distance to the drive shaft was very small and dirty. Best thanks and greetings. Thanks from East-Germany.
I thought my coil was bad and bought a new one. Both coils test good per the video. Tried 3 spark plugs, re-gapped the coil several times and not getting a spark. Deadman wire tested good, but it is not connected. Any suggestions?
@@themowerman Thanks for the reply. It was actually disconnected to remove it as a problem. I did figure it out. I cleaned the mounting areas between the engine cylinder and the coil and this improved the grounding of the coil. Now I have a strong spark. Aluminum does get a corrosion film on it and so does the steel.
I've done an extensive survey if ignition coils with a multimeter as I go through my working day and still haven found the process to be a worthy method of testing a coil, other than one occasion when I found a primary winding that tested way out of limits, 360 ohms when it should have been 0.5 to 1.5, which you don't seem to check for, the cut out tab back to ground. Every bad coil I've had, has tested within limits, primary and secondary windings, meaning the failure is electronic, transistor or diode
I must have missed this video at first. Ah, we lost the internet for a day or so because of a lightning strike that took out out wifi modem, phone system and tv. Anyway I found this electrifying video this afternoon. Great way to test these coils. I never knew that. Thanks for the great information. Thanks for sharing the video with us. Stay safe.
I call Foul! lol Why? Well....you're MY Sub! But....I digress....at least you pick good blokes to watch, so I'll give you a pass my good friend lol. Cheers!! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Not sure why the call of foul so that messes with my little mind. I now shall have to sit on the floor and cross my legs and think OOOHHHMMM,
Help please, my riding mower does'nt start, I used a spark plug tester to test for spark and i get a spark connect the spark wire back to the spark plug and won't start but if I leave the spark plug tester in line between the spark wire and the spark plug it will run, what could be the problem?? Thanks for any help.
Cheers Mick. Coils can also fail short circuit as well as open circuit. If they are open circuit it could be the HT lead though they are hard to replace the way they are built.
What should the reading be between the kill switch terminal and the iron core of the coil? I haves a Briggs engine on a mower which won't spark but its showing 5k ohms between HT and core, 5k ohms between kill switch terminal and core (which would point to it being a good coil) but 0.7 ohms between core and kill switch terminal?
Hey Good clip and demonstration...of this simple test. However...I think tyou should point out more clear that also too high readings...show that the coil is gone/ bad. My read 12 ca. on 20k choice on my multimeter. I saw one other here had 9 point something n...and you reply ...that is too high. You should have said more about....what it mean...when reading is too high....is my opinion. My coiul is from about 5 HP Partner 6553 lawn mover. maybe it is even 6,5 Hp ....
Makes no difference what terminal the red or black lead is on, it's not a diode or transistor where polarity matters. Also if you get no reading at all the coil is "open" & considered bad, it's the same as reading the ohms of a resistor if zero reading then it's "open" no current flows through it.
Mick, you are saying the red lead goes into the Comms socket. All the other videos I have watched on TH-cam use the black lead in the comms socked...would you please explain?
The black wire goes into coms socket NOT the RED and make sure that the Red wire goes into the volts socket and not the AMPS/milliamps you should really pin a comment or change this as it could be dangerous if the are testing something other than lawn mowers
Hi mick..i have a non starting sovereign im getting no spark and coils giving a 4.46 reading across all points,so iv starting looking at the kill switch. How can i test it ,its not got a "normal" switch its more like a metal plate with an insulator under it and the wire from the coil looks like it goes under it..how can i test it with a multimeter ? The mowers a sovereign xss40a grateful for any help
Mate .. take the wire off the coil end.. and test for spark.. if it sparks then it the switch or the switch is not closing.. sometimes bending the arm on the switch to it makes contact helps it
This saved me ..I had a very intermittent starting issue this season on my 21 year old Toro CCR2450 snow thrower where 80% of the time it would start and run great. When I tried to troubleshoot it twice of course it ran great and the spark looked ok. Then I tested the magneto (Briggs) and it had 1k ohms resistance ... not 2.5k. I replaced the magneto and all is well again. Thank you so much!
All good but did you know touching both sides of the metal frame is the same piece of metal ? So it's redundant testing both sides (so exact same reading). Otherwise your video is good !
Elo Mick can you answer this one or suggest something!or is it a scrap job ! 196cc loncin lawnmower engine no spark has a new coil & spark plug flywheel key & magnets are good kill switch on & off no spark so it cannot be a short ! if the timing was out there would be still some intermittent spark ! i had this once before on a Briggs & Stratton engine or is there something under the flywheel preventing a spark ? much appreciated
If it has continuity to one mounting hole, how would you think it could ever not be good to the other? And when the meter is showing a 1 on the left, that isn’t reading one. It is reading overflow, or open.
My rudimentary electrical knowledge makes me always put the negative lead at the end destination since electricity travels to ground. Continuity checks doesn't matter just mild OCD. :-)
Clearest, simplest vido I've seen! Wish I'd seen it a long time ago. New magneto/coil has come with TWO wires; black, and black with white stripe. I suppose the b/w goes ...Well, I suppose nothing, I just ask what do I do?? Anyone?
Okay, that was very easy, very helpful! But my lawn mower still doesn't run. I have a new spark plug, the ground disconnect wire (?) is fine, and the coil tests fine. When I test the spark plug to ground, there doesn't seem to be much of a spark though, but I was outside in the sunshine. Sometimes it almost starts up on the first two pulls of the day, and then nothing, not even with starter fluid. So I was thinking carburetor, perhaps? But it should at least have sputtered with the starter fluid. So, I'm a little dumbfounded. Also, it sometimes starts up after a couple of days standing, and it might run for one or two hours, then it just refuses to start up again. Anyone any ideas?
Rover mini rider ride on is spluttering and stops when motor gets hot but runs fine before hand I thought it might have been a plug so I replaced it but problem still there. The carburettor has a solenoid i pulled it out and checked it's staying in when powered up. Any suggestions? Can the coil break down when hot.
Your leads are plugged in backwards. ...for this situation not a big deal but if someone wants use at multimeter for something else involving polarity in the future they may get a little confused
@Micks Mowers The Mower Man hi Mick..I was just looking at a video by Taryl Fixes. I need to get that exact ignition coil..any idea where I would get that..thanks for all your help..
Great test Mick, done it on the old coil from the "OLD" mower this morning and reading was 11.8 on all 3 surfaces, so will send that new coil back. New mower doing great mate & getting used to the "Self Drive" now. Keep up the great work & say hello to Riley Boy 👍👍
Oh mate that was the first thing I did say you would have to wait until the end of term coming up back to the beginning as they will have to go to the dentist to get the see for done by end of the month and the kids but will be not going back to work and school in September as I am working on the way first thing Monday and Thursday as they will have to baby go out and have an early night in the morning because we have a drink for a bit of time but then we can eat a bit later more of them and then we can have a lovely lunch and a coffee drink soon as well if you like eachother or if you want one Joel can come over and see if she needs a chilled lift home or if something is going well there will be a good feeling once it's out the day after the birthday party on Friday night and the other day though so no worries love unfortunately mate I think I thought in my head last
Surprising how many of the advisers on you tube get the lead polarity backwards and I have yet to see them using the reply facility to acknowledge the advice that is offered
Hi mick, briggs coils like to be under 5000 ohms ( 3000-4000 ohms) anything over this is pointing to a coil going bad. Also red lead goes in com, although not critical for this test. Keep up the good work 👍
Actually I made mistake Black lead goes in COM not red otherwise if you test a car battery for example if the red lead was in COM it would show -12v and not the normal 12v. Hope that makes sense
Went to a screw fix to pick up a multi meter not so much as a purse on that coil Mick enjoyed the live stream was helpful in so many ways and thanks for the question shout sir Mick
@@themowerman I have tried gapping it with 2 pieces of copy paper, my business cards. 1 sheet. Two sheets seems to be the best. It just gets real jumpy and almost kicks really. It makes me imagine it must be the ignition coil. Everything else is newly replaced but the motor and the motor seems fine. I just got the ignition coil in and I will be replacing it tonight. Thanks for getting back with me.
Hey Mick. Man! It was most definitely the ignition coil! I am stoked that I fixed my blower! So I checked the Omhs on the new unit and they read. 2.8k so even the slightest drop below 2.5k will cause the engine to sputter. I wonder why that is. Interesting. Anyways thanks for the video mate. It's alive!
@@jaimejay6056 well happy for ya.. sometimes the coil can have a hairline crack in them and when they get warm they break down.. any glad you got it running brother
Remember 20K Marker ! Thats a note for me , I am german and you speak a little to fast for me. But your video is really helpfull , thank you so much. 🤗
Very helpful video, my coil was showing 11 so I knew my problems were not with coil, after some cleaning out if the carburettor, I got my mower working. Thanks for the help.
Nice and simple to follow, thanks Mick. New solenoid, ignition coil is fine (4.36 across all points) and a new sparkplug n battery. It turns over but still nothing. Any suggestions? Husqvarna 125 and it worked two weeks ago... I'm stumped😞
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I hadn't changed the spark plug th-cam.com/users/postUgkx-6W-PtUzBRTmACHywsECak2ToY2OpjxN in my Toro 20" Recycler in the 6 years I've had it but have been good with all other maintenance. This season I noticed it sputtering a little bit every so often and just didn't feel like it was running as smoothly or as powerful as it used to. Switched out the spark plug for a new one yesterday and could immediately tell an improved difference. So I may have to make this a little more regular than every 6 years, especially for a $5 part!
Not bad Mick.... But your knowledge of Multimeters was clearly basic...as you admitted. (BTW: That's not a bad meter for the price!)
The Black lead ALWAYS goes to the COM (Common) socket. It is the red lead that gets switched around for different functions.
When making simple resistance tests on the coils as you did....it is not really an issue..... Red wire, black wire....electricity is colour blind!
However... if you were testing a battery and you put your two probes across the battery.... In your case, the red onto the +ve terminal and the black onto the -ve terminal... The display would read "-12v" (A car battery, say.) because you have reversed the connections to the meter.
If you reconnect the meter leads as I say, Black to COM...the meter will read simply "12v"...as is the accepted display (NOT +12v...as one might expect.)
It also gets a bit complicated when testing Diodes (Of which there are two in some 2 cylinder Ride-on Mowers for instance)
This is because the meter supplies a voltage to check the flow direction... (A DC voltage obviously, from its own internal battery...just as it does to measure resistance...as you demonstrated.) So it is important to know which lead is actually +VE & which is -VE.....
(Mind you: Most diode failures are either Open Circuit in both directions or shorted in both directions: Either result is a failure, of course.)
Within these more modern coil packs, there is a couple of transistors arranged in a "Darlington-Pair" these eliminate the need for points as they switch current in the primary winding... causing the "Collapsing Magnetic field" which in turn causes the huge Step-up voltage in the secondary.....
....which of course, becomes the "Spark" we are always looking for at the spark plug..... (Phew.... Got there!)
But, you are of course right.... basic resistance checks of the two windings will tell you if a pack is a duff one. Immediately.
...we need to remember: We are only checking two windings....not the trigger circuit electronics.
And another factor I have found over the years..... A cold coil pack can work fine.... then goes bad as it warms up on the machine: Windings expand & short out.
Due to heat or vibration....windings...or electronics? Who can say with such sealed units? It's the way of the world Folks!
Excellent demonstration! Thank you for being so specific. I'm glad that you used defective coils to compare them to the good coils.
Very good channel with great video. I have tested coils like this for years. Sometimes a coil will test good and then not work when it gets hot from the engine heat. If you have a coil that has a heat up problem you can take a bit of tractor trailer repair tape and wrap it around the coil body. This acts as a heat barrier and heat sink.
The tape is aluminum on one side and black sticky tar on the other. Just cut a small piece and place it on the outer plastic body of the coil. This will keep the coil ast a constant temp.
I believe the coil wires inside have thin or cracked insulation coating. The wire looks like it is bare but actualy has a coil of polymer. This polymer will crack and get hard over time. Then the coil voltage is affected.
On hot days my tiller will stop running. The coil tests great when on the bench. After about 10 minutes of running it stops with no spark. The coil is directly over top the piston head and cooling fins. The heat rises and the coil starts to short internaly. I put the trailer repair tape on the bottom and wrapped it around to the top. The metal part of the coil does not get tape. I installed the coil and it has been working now for 5 seasons.
Hope this fix can help someone with a similar problem.. Cheers!
Ta for the information mate I appreciate it
The bad ones are bad- Sec side tested. BUT the good ones can STILL be bad as the primary and switching in the modules can fail. really only way to be sure is check for spark when on machine or swap with known good. Also you can have heat breakdown in the windings causing HOT shorting and failure but starts cold well and will start to misfire/fail when hot after running a while. Caused by insulation material burning off inside and wires touching and thus less coil windings for good spark and you MAY still get a weak spark but it wont fire the mixture. or a little bit only. Very messy to diagnose as it seems engine runs well for 20 mins then vapour lock? with fuel starvation or a bad coil cutting out then.
Good communication mate
Thanks from Texas! I bought a cheap Amazon coil and it only lasted about a year. I bought another cheap Amazon coil because they are about 1/4 the price of an OEM coil, and since they only take about 20 minutes to switch out, I'll take my chances again. Its great to be able to test these coils and KNOW if they work or not! For those who don't own a set of gap spacers, a regular business card works just as well to set the gap from the engine.
Great comment ta for watching
Just gave you thumbs up #300 Mate! I've missed a few of your videos, and for that I apologize! I am a bit busy and there are a lot of us small engine guys out there that I try to keep up with. It was great chatting on the LS yesterday. Hope all is well! Cheers Mate! Zip~
Thanks Mick !! That was easy ! I have been trying to learn about small engines through your channel and a few others and until now haven't seen one on testing coils. Much appreciated
Oh your welcome mate hope it helps. If you need any videos doing let me know. I'm looking into doing Mick's top tips
2nd video saying red into com. I put black into com. Doing so I put red on positive battery and black on negative and I see positive voltage. Putting red in com would show me negative voltage with red on positive battery.
So this test is the test basically for all coils mine is on a 12.5 Kohler very informative & many thanks perfect timing discovered no spark yesterday ! Will proceed with mounted coil of course saves work leaving installed if good coil ! 👍
i tesed both my coils and 2 different muti meters. i couldnt get readings on any of the points you describe testing. all thought my machine runs? im testing on clean metal as well so its not a connection issue......
Good video Bloke. However, the older Briggs & Stratton coil has three coils inside, plus a couple of transistors that control the direction of the currrent flow in the primary. I.e, there's the high voltage winding that you're checking, but there's also the primary winding plus a trigger winding on that little metal post on the bottom of the coil. No way to check either the primary or the trigger winding, or the transistors, as far as I know. Just something to keep in mind. Cheers!
I checked the continuity on the coil and all is good but the mower still won't start? Cleaned the spark plug the carb is pumping fuel and it still won't start, so what else could it be?
Thank you
Maybe I'm wrong, but is the iron core not a single piece ? With the primary and secondary coils wound around the centre part ? Then it stands to reason that with one lead plugged into the spark plug connector and the other lead alternating between the left and right metal pick up above the magneto ... would result in exactly the same readings. You're taking two readings from the same metal core.
check coil with plug resister on reads 16.234 ohms take off resister reads 1.28 ohms brand NEW COIL . TWO POLE COIL SUFFOLK PUNCH 43S COST £135 98 + PP your comment please RAY
So with a new coil are you getting a spark..
@@themowerman THIS IS A NEW COIL YOU NEVER TAKE OFF PLUG CONNECTER WHY , RAY
@@yanavictoria1 because I got a good connection from the ht clip
Very straight forward video. Thanks for making it pretty simple and I learned a lot. Cheers...
Great video Mick. A multimeter is a very useful tool. Use mine all the time. In fact used this morning to prove to my brother in law it was because the battery was flat that my sister’s vehicle wouldn’t start. He swore blind he had a battery charger on it an he had charged it up. Anyway after an hour of charging she started up no problem. Saved them calling a mechanic for a 1 minute test with a cheap multimeter!
Yeah that's it.. a quick way to test..
Mick,
I have a faulty Victa twin mower, twin spark coil, and no new ones are available. How can I now adapt a two pole type twin spark coil to the magneto and still get the timing right, and is that a possibility anyway. The Victa coil has 3 poles to it with the middle pole going thru the centre of the coil. (W type, not a U type) Is that possible? Or maybe you know where some 3 pole coils are still made or can be bought? I
Hmmm I don't know mate sorry
Ok, it is good way to test coil.. But do you set your multimetar on just 200 ohms whan you were test ignition or you put that on MegaOhms ? Off course 6.22 is not in Megaohms because no have much multimetars which has that range for testing, us usually 2M . I was test my coil , and I didn't get nothing clouse of this numbers , my resistance is a lot of bigger , and I had 500K , and I did same method of testing as you did here and , from my opinion if is resist to big that means actually that coil is damaged and if is resist a high than is a low capacity of magnet or electrity inside the coil. And that means is need to replace that part ! Is possible to flywheel makes a bad contact in the spark ? So what you think ?
It is possible mate
But what was the coil resistance 6.22 what ? 6.22k 6.22MOhms ??? The resistance makes a BIG a difference between an open circuit, shorted turns = no output
The resistance is 6.22 kilo ohms as he has set the meter to read up to 20 kilo ohms
well done. I suggest before throwing out that Honda coil, check the plug end on the plug wire - the end screws onto the wire and sometimes if that's done multiple times, the wire becomes buggered, breaking the contact. The wire also screws into the coil itself - check that end as well. The briggs coils all have the wire manufactured right into the coil itself, but the end can be check on some this way as well.
Yeah I did check it.. it's no good ta for watching
Thank you for explaining this Mick. Have ordered one right now, takes the guesswork out of it and replacing coils just in case. If you are on a tight budget might save someone that bit of money.
Hi mate.. yes exactly.. it's an easy task and saves so much time.. thanks for watching
Resistance readings from a coil/CDI unit, will indicate if there is an open circuit, but not whether the insulation or semiconductors are breaking down when running.
forgot to show us the reading from the kill switch terminal to the coil earth.
I finally understand. Thanks Mick
@@SCROWMD no worries
Thanks, you saved me a lot of time plus mechanics in this area prefer bikes to small engines.
No worries
helo anh,tôi ở việt nam xin anh nhắn tin và chỉ dùm cách đo ic6.5hp vì tôi không biết tiếng usa
The same way as the video
You can have good resistance readings on a coil and it can still be bad. This test does not test the condition of the semiconductors within the ignition module. A spark test at pull cord rpm's would be a more accurate test.
Exactly.... If it don't spark...Change the plug.... if it still don't spark. it's bad. End of story. (But we all love to know WHY!? Don't we?)
@@patagualianmostly7437 Not quite my friend. if there is corrosion between the coil body and the engine then you will get no spark and my friend you will have spent out on a coil for nothing. how many coils have you replaced on you're change the plug principal? maybe you were throwing good coils out when you didn't need to? A £10-00 millimetre may have saved you money. Great tutorial as usual Sir Micks
Yes, but I think the coils shown were not electronic. I agree, if electronic then you can have a good testing coil on the bench. But I may have an intermittent fault. This can happen after a short run when a component in the electronics intermittently fails .
@@swarfs They are electronic. They have a Darlington pair transister within to increase the pulse to higher level.
Will I see a spark only if the plug is connected to an earth ? Or will I still see it if I just hold the lead with the spark plug connected in my hand
Hate to get into the weeds, but what causes a coil to go bad? Is it an internal short, or what?
Yeah the windings give out or the coil can expand and check the outer case..
Christ! I hate every damn video has a friggin beginner's guide to life ! Just tell us what setting you set your making noises and number digty! Then DEMONSTRATE! OR YOU NEED TO USE THE PUBLIC SPEAKING METHOD TELL HIM WHAT YOU GOING TO TELL 'IM.
THEN TELL EM.
AT THE DAIN! DONE-GONE ENDING GUESS WHAT??
TELL EMS WHAT YOU TOLD EM. UH HUH!
Man.. take a pill.. have a beer.. find a girl or guy.. but for the love of God chill the f#¥¶ out
I was chill. Probably could be in not all caps... I wasn't being genuinely mad & at the same time I snuck and hid a bit of advice in there. You should assume that your audience is competent and knows how to properly use the tools that will be required to perform the same tasks that will be showcased. Also the format should resemble the structure of a public speaking event. Ie
In a presentation, you 'present' or introduce something (a product, an idea, financial results, a project etc) to your audience. You give a presentation because you want to 'communicate' something. Generally, you want to do one of four things. You want:
to inform
to train
to persuade
to sell
A presentation is one of the best ways of communicating your message.
General Structure of a memorable presentation.
A good presentation has a clear structure, like a good book or film. A good presentation has:
a beginning (introduction & preview) - tell them what you are going to tell them.
a middle (main message) tell them.
an end (review & conclusion) tell them what you told them.
first class keep it simple many thanks
Thank you mick that was a very easily learned well taught lesson ! That was definitely down and dirty!
What causes the coils to go bad? Anyone know?
Thank you
The copper inside
So if you set the gap and you have no spark it need replacing!
Not necessarily.. the best way to to remove the coil wire and see if it sparks or starts ..
whoa I thought anything over 5k was too high? Briggs and Stratton says 2.5 k - 5 k, above 5k they were aged and beginning to go bad. I've heard they go up from 2.5ish to 5k over time. My dad's was reading 6.8k so we ordered another. Hope I didn't mess up.
hello and thank you very much for the video.
My AL-KO_470br petrol lawn mower with Briggs&Stratton-625 engine no longer starts.
I changed the carburettor and the spark plug but it didn't work. Now I have ordered a new ignition coil and tested the old ignition coil according to your video clip. I set 20k ohms on the multimeter and got values of 10.5 on the magnets.
Is this value OK? Then the ignition coil would not be defective, but the distance to the drive shaft was very small and dirty. Best thanks and greetings. Thanks from East-Germany.
@@jomente clean the coil and flywheel... And the two posts the coil sits on with sand paper and try again...
@@themowerman Thank you for the advice.
Can I also put the ignition coil in an ultrasonic bath?
@@jomente I wouldn't
I thought my coil was bad and bought a new one. Both coils test good per the video. Tried 3 spark plugs, re-gapped the coil several times and not getting a spark. Deadman wire tested good, but it is not connected.
Any suggestions?
What about the wire from the dead mans switch to the coil.. it may be damaged
@@themowerman Thanks for the reply. It was actually disconnected to remove it as a problem. I did figure it out. I cleaned the mounting areas between the engine cylinder and the coil and this improved the grounding of the coil. Now I have a strong spark. Aluminum does get a corrosion film on it and so does the steel.
@@edhyde1741 good job
I've done an extensive survey if ignition coils with a multimeter as I go through my working day and still haven found the process to be a worthy method of testing a coil, other than one occasion when I found a primary winding that tested way out of limits, 360 ohms when it should have been 0.5 to 1.5, which you don't seem to check for, the cut out tab back to ground. Every bad coil I've had, has tested within limits, primary and secondary windings, meaning the failure is electronic, transistor or diode
I must have missed this video at first. Ah, we lost the internet for a day or so because of a lightning strike that took out out wifi modem, phone system and tv. Anyway I found this electrifying video this afternoon. Great way to test these coils. I never knew that. Thanks for the great information. Thanks for sharing the video with us. Stay safe.
I call Foul! lol Why? Well....you're MY Sub! But....I digress....at least you pick good blokes to watch, so I'll give you a pass my good friend lol. Cheers!! Zip~
@@ZippoVarga Not sure why the call of foul so that messes with my little mind. I now shall have to sit on the floor and cross my legs and think OOOHHHMMM,
Help please, my riding mower does'nt start, I used a spark plug tester to test for spark and i get a spark connect the spark wire back to the spark plug and won't start but if I leave the spark plug tester in line between the spark wire and the spark plug it will run, what could be the problem?? Thanks for any help.
New plug.. sounds like the resistance is dropping when the in line tester is removed
@@themowerman I will checked with an amp meter thank you.
Cheers Mick. Coils can also fail short circuit as well as open circuit. If they are open circuit it could be the HT lead though they are hard to replace the way they are built.
Yes mate they can see and Alos when hot it's part of the process we have to follow to find the fault
Excellent
Thank you. Brought back an old machine back to productive life.
Your welcome
Simole awesome
What should the reading be between the kill switch terminal and the iron core of the coil? I haves a Briggs engine on a mower which won't spark but its showing 5k ohms between HT and core, 5k ohms between kill switch terminal and core (which would point to it being a good coil) but 0.7 ohms between core and kill switch terminal?
Same. I wish you would have got an answer. Lol
Sounds like a bad coil or bad connection
Hey Good clip and demonstration...of this simple test. However...I think tyou should point out more clear that also too high readings...show that the coil is gone/ bad. My read 12 ca. on 20k choice on my multimeter. I saw one other here had 9 point something n...and you reply ...that is too high. You should have said more about....what it mean...when reading is too high....is my opinion. My coiul is from about 5 HP Partner 6553 lawn mover. maybe it is even 6,5 Hp ....
Of course, those coils showing no continuity might just have a bad HT lead or bad connection from the spark plug clip to the HT lead.
No all the bad one have been tested for bad connection.
Makes no difference what terminal the red or black lead is on, it's not a diode or transistor where polarity matters. Also if you get no reading at all the coil is "open" & considered bad, it's the same as reading the ohms of a resistor if zero reading then it's "open" no current flows through it.
Mick, you are saying the red lead goes into the Comms socket. All the other videos I have watched on TH-cam use the black lead in the comms socked...would you please explain?
The black wire goes into coms socket NOT the RED and make sure that the Red wire goes into the volts socket and not the AMPS/milliamps you should really pin a comment or change this as it could be dangerous if the are testing something other than lawn mowers
Thanks for the video very helpful,.. would you happen to have a coil for B/S 92502 type 0775-02 code 82041502
Thx JP
No sorry mate I don't...
Thanks for very good effective and simple test.
Might want to say the reading is actually 6.22 K ohms, some might get it confused with 6.22 ohms.
Hi Mick. Thanks for the link to see how to test a coil. My meter is different. What is the setting I'm looking for please?
my coils showing 12.6 on meter is this bad
@@pauloneill8912 yeah
@@themowerman thanks
Hi mick..i have a non starting sovereign im getting no spark and coils giving a 4.46 reading across all points,so iv starting looking at the kill switch. How can i test it ,its not got a "normal" switch its more like a metal plate with an insulator under it and the wire from the coil looks like it goes under it..how can i test it with a multimeter ? The mowers a sovereign xss40a grateful for any help
Mate .. take the wire off the coil end.. and test for spark.. if it sparks then it the switch or the switch is not closing.. sometimes bending the arm on the switch to it makes contact helps it
@@themowerman thanks mick il try that tomorow weather permittig
@@stevelewis5710 cool
Fine and dandy for simple Ohms readings but if you are doing DC volts or diode testing you put the leads on backwards....
This saved me ..I had a very intermittent starting issue this season on my 21 year old Toro CCR2450 snow thrower where 80% of the time it would start and run great. When I tried to troubleshoot it twice of course it ran great and the spark looked ok. Then I tested the magneto (Briggs) and it had 1k ohms resistance ... not 2.5k. I replaced the magneto and all is well again. Thank you so much!
You are very welcome my friend.. that's what the video is for..
Take one of your old bad coils take it apart and you will see the first and second place that you were checking, is the same.
On the Viking 4rtp mate getting. 10.4 on all three that showing really high or is that a really good coil ?? Cheers
My dead mans wire has a couple lil spots we’re it’s exposed that must be the problem thanks bud
All good but did you know touching both sides of the metal frame is the same piece of metal ? So it's redundant testing both sides (so exact same reading). Otherwise your video is good !
Once all said a very insightful video, thank you
Elo Mick can you answer this one or suggest something!or is it a scrap job ! 196cc loncin lawnmower engine no spark has a new coil & spark plug flywheel key & magnets are good kill switch on & off no spark so it cannot be a short ! if the timing was out there would be still some intermittent spark ! i had this once before on a Briggs & Stratton engine or is there something under the flywheel preventing a spark ? much appreciated
Does it have a set of points under the flywheel.. how old is it ?
@@themowerman no points or condenser has a ignition module thanks for taking the time to reply !
@@dennispratt3344 take the wire off the coil and try to start it .. if it's a no start then it's the coil or plug..
@@themowerman its a new coil & plug good readings with ohms old & new
6.22k 1 means infinite or open or out of range might be a higher resistance than your settings
If it has continuity to one mounting hole, how would you think it could ever not be good to the other? And when the meter is showing a 1 on the left, that isn’t reading one. It is reading overflow, or open.
66free
Are we talking ohms or kohms?
Ohms
Thanks from St. Louis, Missouri... SUPER HELPFUL
Your welcome
My rudimentary electrical knowledge makes me always put the negative lead at the end destination since electricity travels to ground. Continuity checks doesn't matter just mild OCD. :-)
What's the Measure the Dead Mans terminal to the frame?
What do you mean mate
@@themowerman The resistance value from the shut off tap to the laminated frame.
Clearest, simplest vido I've seen! Wish I'd seen it a long time ago.
New magneto/coil has come with TWO wires; black, and black with white stripe. I suppose the b/w goes ...Well, I suppose nothing, I just ask what do I do?? Anyone?
Okay, that was very easy, very helpful! But my lawn mower still doesn't run. I have a new spark plug, the ground disconnect wire (?) is fine, and the coil tests fine. When I test the spark plug to ground, there doesn't seem to be much of a spark though, but I was outside in the sunshine. Sometimes it almost starts up on the first two pulls of the day, and then nothing, not even with starter fluid. So I was thinking carburetor, perhaps? But it should at least have sputtered with the starter fluid. So, I'm a little dumbfounded. Also, it sometimes starts up after a couple of days standing, and it might run for one or two hours, then it just refuses to start up again. Anyone any ideas?
Ok.. soni would go for carb clean and maybe check the timing. Have you hit something..
Amazing instructor, you simplify the test of a coil. Thank You and God Bless.
You are welcome
Kills me to be trying to get back to job at hand and have to hear everything but
i for INFINITE resistance... broken wire. in the coil.
Rover mini rider ride on is spluttering and stops when motor gets hot but runs fine before hand
I thought it might have been a plug so I replaced it but problem still there.
The carburettor has a solenoid i pulled it out and checked it's staying in when powered up.
Any suggestions? Can the coil break down when hot.
Yeah mate they can ..
Briggs & Stratton specs on the magneto is 2.5-5k Ohms. So the ones that read 6.22 are technically bad.
Yes.. although they may still show a spark the spark is bad..
Your leads are plugged in backwards. ...for this situation not a big deal but if someone wants use at multimeter for something else involving polarity in the future they may get a little confused
Yeah.. I know .. but like you say it's not a problem for this test
Hi mick..I have a punch 75g 14 and I'm getting no spark..3.3ohms on the coil. Amy idea what else it could be or is the coil bunched
Has it got a set of points?
@Micks Mowers The Mower Man whats that 😄. Am.i able to send you a picture of what I have
@@joeeager4717 yeah email me micksmowers01@gmail.com
@Micks Mowers The Mower Man hi Mick..I was just looking at a video by Taryl Fixes. I need to get that exact ignition coil..any idea where I would get that..thanks for all your help..
@@joeeager4717 I think I sent him that coil?
Great test Mick, done it on the old coil from the "OLD" mower this morning and reading was 11.8 on all 3 surfaces, so will send that new coil back. New mower doing great mate & getting used to the "Self Drive" now. Keep up the great work & say hello to Riley Boy 👍👍
Fantastic news mate
Very good video Mick! Very useful info and well explained
Oh mate that was the first thing I did say you would have to wait until the end of term coming up back to the beginning as they will have to go to the dentist to get the see for done by end of the month and the kids but will be not going back to work and school in September as I am working on the way first thing Monday and Thursday as they will have to baby go out and have an early night in the morning because we have a drink for a bit of time but then we can eat a bit later more of them and then we can have a lovely lunch and a coffee drink soon as well if you like eachother or if you want one Joel can come over and see if she needs a chilled lift home or if something is going well there will be a good feeling once it's out the day after the birthday party on Friday night and the other day though so no worries love unfortunately mate I think I thought in my head last
I have no idea what you on about 😃
I am coming back (watching videos again } Nice meter.
Thanks me old friend. Was good talking last night
Very helpful! Thank you Sir!
Surprising how many of the advisers on you tube get the lead polarity backwards and I have yet to see them using the reply facility to acknowledge the advice that is offered
Thanks
Hi mick, briggs coils like to be under 5000 ohms ( 3000-4000 ohms) anything over this is pointing to a coil going bad. Also red lead goes in com, although not critical for this test. Keep up the good work 👍
Ta brother
Actually I made mistake Black lead goes in COM not red otherwise if you test a car battery for example if the red lead was in COM it would show -12v and not the normal 12v. Hope that makes sense
Went to a screw fix to pick up a multi meter not so much as a purse on that coil Mick enjoyed the live stream was helpful in so many ways and thanks for the question shout sir Mick
Thank you. Very useful. Straight forward.
Your welcome
Mines at 2.46 my blower starts but get jumpy after about 30 seconds and eventually cuts off...
Have you changed the plug.. and gapped it correctly.. it van make all the difference..
@@themowerman I have tried gapping it with 2 pieces of copy paper, my business cards. 1 sheet. Two sheets seems to be the best. It just gets real jumpy and almost kicks really. It makes me imagine it must be the ignition coil. Everything else is newly replaced but the motor and the motor seems fine. I just got the ignition coil in and I will be replacing it tonight. Thanks for getting back with me.
Hey Mick. Man! It was most definitely the ignition coil! I am stoked that I fixed my blower! So I checked the Omhs on the new unit and they read. 2.8k so even the slightest drop below 2.5k will cause the engine to sputter. I wonder why that is. Interesting. Anyways thanks for the video mate. It's alive!
@@jaimejay6056 well happy for ya.. sometimes the coil can have a hairline crack in them and when they get warm they break down.. any glad you got it running brother
is a 4.84 a good coil
Yes should be..
I may have heard wrong but did you put the red lead into the com port?
Remember 20K Marker ! Thats a note for me , I am german and you speak a little to fast for me.
But your video is really helpfull , thank you so much. 🤗
No worries
Very helpful video, my coil was showing 11 so I knew my problems were not with coil, after some cleaning out if the carburettor, I got my mower working. Thanks for the help.
Fantastic
🤙🏾 ...
Nice and simple to follow, thanks Mick. New solenoid, ignition coil is fine (4.36 across all points) and a new sparkplug n battery. It turns over but still nothing. Any suggestions? Husqvarna 125 and it worked two weeks ago... I'm stumped😞
Could it be a timing issue
Thanks mick The kids will get back on the mini bike.2.5 hp 1965 brick lil indian
Cool mate
Thanks Man........from Nebraska USA (Found my coil wire is broken in the boot) Also a new coil was bad from the factory.
Glad I was able to help ya out
✌😊👍
My coil is reading about 6. I thought you were going to cover the magneto as well.
Someone said if the magnet is still good then the magneto should be fine.
OK you help me so far but what happens if the coil’s test OK but I still don’t get spark
Change it.. I had that the other day..